CASA MOLLROSE PHOTOS COURTESY OF JEANNIE KRUIDENIER (ANS - Corigliano d’Otranto) - Last Saturday the Salesian house in Corigliano d’Otranto turned 120 years old the educational and city community gathered for a Mass of thanksgiving to God which was followed by two other important events: the inauguration of the "Buona Stoffa" Day Center - realized thanks to the support of the Association of Social Promotion “Piccoli Passi Grandi Sogni” and to numerous donors involved in the project - and of the multipurpose hall of the Salesian Youth Sports Clubs; and the conference entitled: “120 years with Don Bosco and with young people” The Councilor for the Mediterranean Region The conference was attended by Giovanna Coccioli lay manager of the Corigliano d’Otranto work; the aforementioned Fr Pérez Godoy; Fr Angelo Santorsola Superior of the Southern Italy Province (IME); and Francesco Cicione President of the company “Entopan” all introduced by the institutional greetings of the Mayor of Corigliano visions and perspectives characterized the dialogue with several voices of an inspired conversation on how the Christian renewal of society passes through the concrete implementation of the teachings of Don Bosco the realization and authentic desires of young people objectives highlighted and supported also in the Mission and Vision document of the Corigliano d'Otranto work approved by the Provincial Council chaired by Fr Santorsola Fr Pérez Godoy also dealt with the theme of educational co-responsibility of Salesians and laity in the world and in Corigliano underlining the importance of collaboration and the richness of educational environments where Salesians and laity walk together sharing values and consistency in the journey The conference came to the end of an intense day of events in which the spirit of family the taste and flavor of home and the presence of God was deeply felt The whole day was a celebration of gratitude for what was done in the past but above all for what is being lived and experienced today for the benefit of young people Don Bosco rejoices today for all the "memory of the heart" which is still alive and tangible today ANS - “Agenzia iNfo Salesiana” is a on-line almost daily publication the communication agency of the Salesian Congregation enrolled in the Press Register of the Tibunal of Rome as n 153/2007 This site also uses third-party cookies to improve user experience and for statistical purposes By scrolling through this page or by clicking on any of its elements labyrinthine streets and hyper-Baroque churches Corigliano d’Otranto seems at first like any other village in Italy’s southern Salento region an entirely different world begins to reveal itself “Teli na cusi tin glossa grika?” asks a sign on the main square “Cai ‘na percorso amesa tus monumentu pleon orriu so chorio paleo pu Coriana?” then these words will evoke an odd sense of familiarity That’s because this is Griko – a language closely related to Greek and spoken in a small microregion of Salento known as Grecia Salentina My guide to this world-within-a-world is Dr Manuela Pellegrino a native of the region and author of “Greek Language Italian Landscape: Griko and the Re-storying of a Linguistic Minority.” She was born and raised in Zollino one of seven villages in Salento where Griko can still be heard she is one of its youngest fluent speakers “For me Griko was always there growing up,” she says “My grandmother would speak it to my parents at home though my parents preferred to speak to me in Salentino the local Italian dialect.” Curious about Grandma’s language though the language engendered a profound sense of meaning in her After graduating in foreign languages from the University of Salento investigating the past and present of Griko ultimately deciding to return to her home village and make a concerted effort to master the language “I would literally follow all the elderly Griko speakers around as they went about their daily activities – gardening I would insist they speak to me only in Griko,” she recalls They found it difficult to speak casually with someone so young and made fun of my mistakes Perhaps this was a kind of revenge for when we would make fun of their mistakes in Italian.” The origins of the Grikos are something of a mystery Romantics herald them as the last remnants of the once vast Greek-speaking colonies of Magna Graecia but linguists who have studied Griko grammar say it has more in common with modern than with ancient Greek Perhaps the Greek language was reintroduced (or reinforced) by the arrival of Greek refugees in southern Italy during the Ottoman incursions into Europe Since their “rediscovery” in the early 1990s they have been the targets of intense mythmaking and ideological self-interest Pellegrino is weary of these internecine debates over identity She stresses that – apart from their language – speakers of Griko do not consider themselves culturally different from other Salentines and regard themselves as a linguistic minority rather than an ethnic or national one the Greek state – alarmed that there appeared to be a Greek minority abroad which they hadn’t known about – began dispatching Greek teachers to the villages These Modern Greek language classes were mostly attended by pensioners with nothing to do and curious about the links between the two languages Having had less impact than the Greek state had perhaps hoped the program was quietly discontinued during the financial crisis and only recently reactivated “Locals still debate whether learning Modern Greek can help preserve Griko,” says Pellegrino contact between our community and Greece intensified which significantly influenced Griko language and culture.” the Griko language has undergone – if not quite a revival – then a reinvention What was once stigmatized as a peasant vernacular at odds with Italian nation-building has been recast as something lofty Much to the bemusement of its elderly mother-tongue speakers this has to do with the reinvention of Salento itself previously a poor and forsaken corner of Italy now increasingly popular with both Italian and foreign visitors The uptick in the region’s economic prospects coincided with a revival in folk and cultural traditions the Italian state officially recognized Griko as one of Italy’s historical minority languages and in 2001 the Union of the Municipalities of Grecia Salentina was formed It includes the seven villages where Griko is still spoken – Calimera Sternatia and Zollino – in addition to four villages – Carpignano Salentino Melpignano and Soleto – where Griko has not been spoken for one or two centuries Being part of the Grecia Salentina union grants its members the right to claim a lofty inheritance and a distinctive brand but there are economic incentives too: access to lucrative European funds which are available for ethnic Suddenly the language has appeared in the names of restaurants It has recently been used in brand names for local products (such as beer) and even in the names of political parties in local elections “I’m often asked to translate signs into Griko,” says Pellegrino as Griko is essentially a pastoral language and lacks the vocabulary of modernity so we are forced to borrow words from Salentino Italian and – more recently – modern Greek.” Some locals have even started adorning their shops with signs written in the Greek alphabet which the majority of the community cannot read “These are just two examples of how modern Greek has seeped into Griko,” says Pellegrino The language is sporadically demonstrated in schools and Pellegrino helps run an annual Griko summer camp called I Ddomada Grika (The Griko Week) her presence granting these back-of-beyond villages a rare moment in the spotlight In tandem with this has been a renewed interest in Griko as a language of artistic expression Numerous bands and poets have emerged within the language’s cultural landscape and Grecia Salentina has become the center of the revived Notte della Taranta of which Griko music plays an integral part attended by up to 200,000 people and broadcast live on Rai 1 It typically ends with a rousing rendition of “Calinitta” (Goodnight) which has become something of a Griko anthem “If we judge the life of a language based on its day-to-day utility then Griko has been dead for a long time,” says Pellegrino “What’s interesting is how the language has been reappropriated when people speak Griko they do so because they ‘want to’ and not because they ‘need to.’ So as the language declines in traditional use in which the use of Griko becomes a performative comment on the meaning of Griko itself.” Such is the paradox of a language that is always dying but never actually dead As the contemporary Griko writer Paolo Di Mitri puts it: “O Grikomma pesane Esi ka mas meletate pesanato?” (Has Griko died Alex Sakalis is a writer and journalist whose work has appeared on the BBC and in The Economist and The Guardian Enter your information below to receive our weekly newsletters with the latest insights opinion pieces and current events straight to your inbox Best in Travel is here! Discover 2025’s destinations The 30 best countries, cities and regions to visit in 2025 Plan your trip with Elsewhere, by Lonely Planet See where a Lonely Planet Membership takes you Subscribe to our weekly newsletters to get the latest travel news, expert advice, and insider recommendations Explore the world with our detailed, insightful guidebooks Stay ahead of the curve with our guidebooks Uncover exciting new ways to explore iconic destinations Every month, we release new books into the wild Search Search Close search menu Explore Best in Travel 2024 Africa Close menu Countries Antarctica Antarctica Close menu Regions Asia Asia Close menu Countries Australia & the Pacific Australia & the Pacific Close menu Countries The Caribbean The Caribbean Close menu Countries Central America Central America Close menu Countries Europe Europe Close menu Countries Middle East Middle East Close menu Countries North America North America Close menu Countries South America South America Close menu Countries Our favorite places in Puglia – including clifftop Polignano a Mare (pictured) – feature beautiful coasts and improbable archictecture It’s hard to believe that Puglia once played second fiddle to the likes of Tuscany a fine-dining restaurant whose spectacular setting (in a cave right above the sea) commands a major premium Consider visiting the town either side of July and August to avoid the heftiest crowds, and make time for its excellent Museo Pino Pascali an abattoir–turned–contemporary art gallery dedicated to the great Puglian artist Pino Pascali Local tip: Try the town’s caffè speciale, coffee spiked with sugar, cream, lemon zest and amaretto. It’s said that the drink was invented at local institution Mario Campanella Il Super Mago del Gelo More than 800 locals were slaughtered when the Ottomans invaded Otranto in 1480. Today, their skulls make for an unconventional welcome committee at the city’s Romanesque cathedral Yet what makes this hulking landmark unmissable is the action-packed mosaic floor – one of the largest and most intriguing ever executed in medieval Europe Since Otranto lies a mere 72km (45 miles) from the Balkan coast it’s not surprising that its history is riddled with occupations and liberations Sleuth around its compact old quarter to peel the past off in layers: Greek for Otranto’s beaches are among the most inviting of Puglia beaches Best for street food (and street-made food) Forget the North Pole – you’ll find the real St Nick in Bari. The city’s gigantic Basilica di San Nicola shelters the relics of this early Christian bishop whose fondness for secret gift giving inspired the white-bearded icon we all know and love In Bari Vecchia, the lovable, labyrinthine old town, you can visit the remarkable 12th-century Norman cathedral and the excellent archaeological museum Yet the undisputed stars of this quarter are the legendary pasta-making ladies of Arco Basso they set up their spianatoie (wooden boards) along the narrow backstreets rolling and expertly shaping Puglia’s signature orecchiette the city also whets the appetite with Italian cuisine like focaccia barese (Bari-style focaccia) sgagliozze (polenta fritters) and panzerotti (deep-fried calzone) – fortifying street snacks on any Bari bar crawl A chocolate box of photogenic paesi (towns) and arresting natural beauty, the Gargano Promontory is an all-in-one treat in Puglia’s northeast. Clifftop Vieste and Peschici make ideal bases their narrow streets scattered with fluttering laundry color-popping geraniums and seafood trattorie boat tours sail from their harbors to Gargano’s dazzling sea caves Both towns are also summer gateways to the nearby Tremiti Islands, where fragrant hikes, clear waters and a medieval abbey add up to an evocative offshore escape. Behind Vieste and Peschici, twisting backroads and hiking trails crisscross the rugged, mountainous expanse of the Parco Nazionale del Gargano home to ancient woodlands and brooding mountain villages The prettiest of the lot is Monte Sant’Angelo the Archangel Michael made several apparitions in the fifth century a “living” museum that gives visitors at taste of trullo life in the 19th century While several of Alberobello’s trulli offer accommodation, consider exploring the town as a day trip and basing yourself instead in one of the valley’s lesser-known jewel-box towns. Among them is chic, whitewashed Ostuni, rustic Cisternino and baroque Martina Franca a delicately sweet cured meat regarded as the king of Puglia’s salami Planning tip: From mid-July to early August, Martina Franca hosts the Festa della Valle d’Itria a renowned music festival focused on opera Planning tip: Several of Martano’s beautiful private courtyards are open to the public during Cortili Aperti (Open Courtyards) Grecìa Salentina celebrates its soulful pizzica folk dance with the Notte della Taranta festival Gallipoli is the epitome of southern Italian seduction: azure seas laid-back locals and a picture-perfect Old Town heady permeated by the scent of freshly fried seafood A dense warren of intimate squares and bar-studded alleyways the Old Town occupies a tiny island connected to the mainland by a causeway the hip and the beautiful descend en masse to soak in sun at Gallipoli’s superlative beaches – as well as the town’s chic vibe and hedonistic nightlife Not that it’s all beach clubs and bronzed pinups. Gallipoli harbors the Cattedrale di Sant’Agata, a shining example of barocco leccese architecture, and the extraordinary Frantoio Ipogeo It’s also home to the mysterious Fontana Greca (Greek Fountain) an intricately carved monument whose exact origins are still up for debate Planning tip: Consider visiting Gallipoli in June or September to enjoy the beaches clubs and warmth without the peak-season masses Santa Croce’s intricately carved facade is one of Italy’s architectural masterpieces Of course, Lecce’s backstory is much older than its 400-year-old showstoppers. On Piazzetta Castromediano Sigismondo, glass floor panels reveal a glimpse of a Renaissance oil store. At nearby Museo Faggiano, a mundane search for a sewage pipe led to the discovery of millennia-old subterranean relics, among them a pre-Christian Messapian tomb and a Roman granary.