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This is more of a luxury hotel post than a points hotel post, so if that doesn’t interest you, by all means skip it. However, what’s probably my single favorite boutique hotel group in the world is opening its first property outside of France
Airelles Venice (Venezia) is expected to open in the fall of 2025
marking the newest property of the French luxury hotel group
The hotel isn’t yet accepting reservations
and will be located on Venice’s Giudecca Island
just a five-minute boat ride from Piazza San Marco
The property is housed within the former Bauer Palladio complex
Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace
The property has been designed by Christophe Tollemer
the same architect and interior designer behind Airelles’ other properties
so you can expect there will be a mix of French elegance with Venetian artistry
Airelles Venice will feature three distinct dining experiences
a huge wellness center with a gym and garden
especially in a city where space comes at such a premium
The pictures of the rooms so far look exactly like what you’d expect from Airelles
and I imagine even on the day the hotel opens
they won’t feel “new,” in a good way
Airelles’ other properties are largely in places where there are no good points properties
though — in terms of the “vibe” of Airelles
I think you can tell based on the above pictures
where you can see how Airelles is restoring the property in a way that really brings out the best of it
There’s no denying that we’ve seen a huge increase in luxury hotel costs since the start of the pandemic
so it’s hard to assess value in travel nowadays
But I’d argue what’s so frustrating about luxury hotel rates is how many properties are charging a lot more while offering a lot less
one thing is for sure — they invest massively in the guest experience
you’re going to have an amazing time
My first stay with the brand was at Airelles Courchevel
which is my favorite ski resort in the world
and perhaps my favorite hotel in the world
It’s simply an incredible ski resort
Airelles La Bastide de Gordes is a special resort in Provence
I’ve also stayed at Airelles Saint-Tropez Chateau de la Messardiere
And we haven’t even stayed at Airelles Château de Versailles, Le Grand Contrôle
which offers unrivaled access to the Palace of Versailles
My point is simply to say that if you appreciate French hospitality
Airelles will be opening its first hotel outside of France in 2025
This looks like a beautiful property that will no doubt rank among the best in the city
I’m excited to see the Airelles brand growing
though I do kind of wish that expansion came in a market where there was less luxury competition
and therefore where the Airelles experience would stand out even more
What do you make of the upcoming Airelles Venice
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Does it share the same island with Belmond!
Airelles are great in locations where you will spend time at the hotel and use all their amenities
Venice is not a destination where I would spend time at the hotel other than showering and sleeping
Stayed at the St Regis Venice last summer and it was more than perfect
Inconvenient location unless the hotel has its own on-demand no-wait ferries to actual Venice
Plus lots of people who stay there hire a boat to remain at their disposal
it's a bit out of the way but it's also the only way to get that view of St
I hold the (perhaps incorrect) perception that Venice is mostly for American and Asian visitors
@ Jerry -- I'd say that Airelles' target audience isn't necessarily (or at least primarily) rich French travelers
but rather those who appreciate aspects of French culture
In my experience the Courchevel property is most popular with Russians and other Europeans
while the Val-d'Isère and Gordes properties are most popular with those from other parts of Europe
You raise a good point though about Venice being popular with Americans and Asians,..
You raise a good point though about Venice being popular with Americans and Asians
and those definitely haven't historically been Airelles' primarily customer base
but maybe the brand is trying to grow there
they are the second largest tourists group after US Americans..
And far above Chinese (only 12) if you look at the city stats from 2023..
it's more a weekend city trip then a full vacation
It also helps that basically everyone there speaks French
so quite popular with the older demographics
I was just telling someone about this brand
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it's more a weekend city trip then a full vacation
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A new book of photographs by Marco Valmarana takes readers inside the Floating City’s secret gardens
“Venice is a woman,” Diane von Furstenberg has written
“The gardens of Venice are like precious emeralds set in the mounting of an elaborate golden jewel
small green spots scattered throughout a complex urban fabric
These green oases, which float above the city’s swampy lagoon, are everywhere in Venice
Gardens hug the sprawling Fondazione Giorgio Cini
They highlight the outdoor sculptures at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection
and concealed behind tall fences and brick walls
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
Jordi Lippe-McGraw is a travel writer and founder of PAK Rêve bags.Follow AuthorNov 18
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#article-stream-0 .subhead3-embed .font-accent{font-family: Euclid,"Noto Sans","Droid Sans","Helvetica Neue",Corbel,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;}The stunning hotel will make a splash in Venice
the French luxury hotel brand synonymous with opulence
is finally making its grand leap beyond France's borders with the upcoming debut of Airelles Venezia
this new property will mark a significant milestone for the brand
landing on none other than Venice's serene Giudecca Island
Giudecca has long been a quiet escape from the frenzy of Venice's tourist-heavy San Marco
Airelles clearly knows how to pick a spot that's equal parts iconic and tucked away from the masses
The new property will breathe life into the historic buildings of the former Bauer Palladio complex
We're talking three meticulously restored buildings
a heritage church designed by Andrea Palladio
and nearly one hectare of gardens—an absolute rarity in Venice
Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace
Airelles Venezia is poised to deliver a mix of privacy
this isn't just about adding another pin on the map
It's a strategic leap into Italy's high-end travel market
a territory ripe for a brand that's mastered French refinement
"The opening of Airelles Venezia is a landmark moment for us," says CEO Anne-Laure Ollagnon
She's not exaggerating—this move expands their footprint and signals the brand's ambition to rival the most iconic hotels in Europe
"We're honored to be the custodians of such a storied property," Ollagnon adds
noting that the project will blend Airelles' signature style with a deep respect for Venice's rich history
the acclaimed architect and interior designer behind the brand's other visually stunning properties
Expect a blend of French elegance and Venetian artistry: Murano glass
and even terrazzo floors will set the scene
The design will nod to Venetian grandeur while keeping that unmistakable Airelles touch—think rich mahogany tones
Airelles Venezia is pulling out all the stops when it comes to amenities
The property will feature 45 rooms and suites
each painstakingly designed to combine historic charm with modern comfort
Guests can choose between rooms in the main Palladio building
or opt for the exclusive standalone villa with panoramic views of Piazza San Marco
If you're the kind who prefers privacy
there's even a three-bedroom villa tucked away in the Conventino area
The property will feature all the classic details
Dining is another area where Airelles plans to shine
although they're keeping the names of their star chefs under wraps for now
What we do know: the property will offer three distinct dining experiences
and a main bar with a terrace perfect for sundowner cocktails
expect a fusion of French techniques and Italian ingredients that will likely draw foodies from across the globe
Airelles Venezia will feature a sprawling spa and wellness center
which means families can truly relax knowing their little ones are entertained
and it's clear Airelles Venezia is positioning itself as a top-tier retreat for travelers who want it all
One of the most unique elements of Airelles Venezia is its historic church
Built in the late 16th century and designed by Palladio
the church will be restored to its former glory and available for intimate weddings and private events
That's right—guests can exchange vows in a venue steeped in centuries of Venetian history
making it one of the most exclusive wedding venues in the city
Some of the few images released of the interiors
Airelles is making a point to connect with the local community through restoration projects
including contributing to the upkeep of the Doge's Palace and Giardini del Redentore
It's not just about bringing French luxury to Venice but also about giving back to the city that's hosting them
Airelles' entry into Venice is more than just another luxury hotel opening; it's a statement of intent
which already boasts properties like Le Grand Contrôle at the Palace of Versailles and La Bastide in Gordes
is clearly setting its sights on becoming a serious player in the Italian luxury market
With Venice seeing a steady influx of high-net-worth travelers
By combining their signature French flair with Venetian history
Airelles aims to stand out in a city already brimming with opulent hotels
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From its prime position on the eastern tip of the Giudecca island
Belmond Cipriani exudes an air of dolce vita–style glamour
Whether you pull up directly at the private dock
or hop on the hotel launch at Piazza San Marco for the journey across the lagoon
and air of sophistication combine into a pampered world all its own
Created by Giuseppe Cipriani—of Harry’s Bar fame—in 1958
the Cipriani has remained the essence of Venetian luxe through its various rebrandings
it has added the Michelin-starred Oro restaurant to its gamut of glamourous offerings
Drinking and dining—what are we looking at? There’s the Michelin-starred Oro restaurant, with a glimmering Adam Tihany–designed interior, the less formal Cip’s Club on a deck by the water, and the Giudecca 10 trattoria, with tables arranged along a waterside terrace. And that’s just for starters. You can snack by the pool at Porticciolo, sip Cipriani’s famous Bellini cocktail at the Gabbiano bar, and take cooking lessons with Michelin-starred chef Davide Bisetto.
And the service? Staff is approachable, welcoming, and used to household-name guests with privacy issues. You can bank on hugely professional, discreet service.
What type of travelers will you find here? Come around film festival time (late August and early September) and you’ll rub shoulders with A-list stars, directors, and producers. But the vibe is monied and self-assured year-round, with splashes of international color, from entertainers to royalty.
What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene? Venice remains a shimmering vision across the water—conceptually very close, but physically very far. The only obvious way of exiting is by boat; for many guests, that’s the Cipriani’s unique value proposition.
Any other hotel features worth noting? The list of facilities and services is staggering: central Venice’s only pool—and an Olympic-sized one, at that—a sumptuous spa, children’s activities, cooking classes, tailored tours and boat trips, gorgeous gardens, art classes, tennis courts, and more.
Bottom line: Worth it? Why? If 360-degree indulgence is what you’re after, the Cipriani is your ideal Venice perch.
All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. If you book something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
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Airelles has unveiled plans to open its first property outside of France
the property will mark the collection’s ninth address
It will comprise 45 rooms and suites three dining destinations and two bars
as well as a 1700m² spa and gym with a dedicated wellness garden
three swimming pools and a dedicated space for private functions
the property was once the site of the Bauer Palladio and comprises three historically significant buildings
as well as a church and extensive gardens of almost one hectare
The hotel’s central building and entrance is the Palladio which surrounds Santa Maria della Presentazione
a historic church adorned with two bell towers
the Palladio was designed by architect Andrea Palladio
and will now enter a new era as part of Airelles Venezia
The Santa Maria della Presentazione church
is being restored to its former glory and will be available to guests of the hotel for weddings and small ceremonies
Adjacent to the Palladio is a standalone villa
which previously served as a residence to a succession of noble Italian families before becoming an elite pensione
catering to an eclectic clientele of painters
The villa will feature a number of Airelles Venezia’s accommodations
and a four-bedroom Presidential Suite with full view of Piazza San Marco
as well as one of the hotel’s upscale dining experiences and bar
To the rear of the property lies the Conventino
where guests will discover further rooms and suites and an intimate three-bedroom villa with a private garden and swimming pool
Architect and interior designer Christophe Tollemer
who has been responsible for the design aesthetic across all Airelles properties
French linens and fabrics will seamlessly blend with classical Italian stylings
incorporating decadent terrazzo and marble floors
delicate Murano glass pieces and Rubelli wallcoverings
Inspired by the romantic Venetian backdrop
the colour palette will feature warm ambers
handpicked antique furniture and historic artefacts
will be complemented by 21st-century luxuries
“We are privileged to introduce our first property outside of France with the upcoming opening of Airelles Venezia,” says Anne-Laure Ollagnon
“The opening of this exceptional property is a landmark moment for our brand
and a magnificent addition to both our portfolio and to luxury hospitality in Venice
It is a great honour for Airelles to be the next custodians of this remarkable estate
and we look forward to curating some of the most incredible experiences for our discerning guests.”
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Giudecca is where wheel-heeled Italian families head for their culture fix
Feast in the island’s family-run trattorias
snooze between retro boltholes and drink with the masters of mixology
Giudecca, Venice
Get your weekly dose of armchair travelling
The community life centered around the Giudecca (as the Jewish quarter was known) and its four synagogues
two of which survived the repeated violence of history
has recently been restored to its original purpose
a Star of David and a bell now coexist on the building’s exterior
But few who walk these streets are aware of this,” explained architect Renzo Funaro
vice-president of the Foundation for Jewish Cultural Heritage in Italy (FBCEI)
which were discussed at the “Jewish Trani Project” meeting on 7 February
architect Giorgio Gramegna (project designer of the Jewish section in the diocesan museum) and local authorities.“The goal is to increase visibility for the Giudecca
There is much to be shared and we plan to spread this information digitally as well,” explained Funaro
who is part of a working group created in 2023 to promote the area’s cultural
touristic and architectural value.Among the initiatives presented at the meeting
selected by an expert commission and presented to local schools
Students will be involved in spreading awareness of Jewish Trani
and Hebrew alphabet will be offered in schools
High schools will also be involved in the use of the logo and its possible graphic
sculptural and multimedia applications,” Funaro said
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ShareWhy Giudecca is the place to goHome to hotel that’s part of the history of Venetian hospitality
the island has also become a destination for international curators and collectors thanks to its thriving contemporary art scene
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Touted as the city’s first permanent art quarter
the Giudecca Art District will encompass 11 galleries alongside national pavilions during the 58th Venice Biennale
Venice Biennale: Brechtian beach operas, psychedelic grottos, and more
Other major exhibitions include the Voltaire-inspired ‘Take Care of Your Garden’
with works by eight international artists to be staged in a vast 1,900 sq m garden
Venice Biennale 2019 runs from 11 May – 24 November. For more information, visit the Giudecca Art District website
escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
Pope Francis to attend installation that includes short film featuring Zoë Saldaña and Giudecca inmates
Pope Francis is due to attend on 28 April – the first pontifical visit to the Biennale since it was founded in 1895
In the women’s prison he will see a work by Maurizio Cattelan
who notoriously created a hyper-real sculpture in 1999 depicting Pope John Paul II struck down by a meteorite
For this exhibition, however, the Italian-born artist is contributing a work to be displayed on the facade of the prison chapel. Referencing Andrea Mantegna’s painting Lamentation Over the Dead Christ
it is a large-scale photograph of his own dirty
Leading one of the first tours around the prison, which can be booked by members of the public
dressed in striking uniforms of navy and white that they had designed and made in the prison’s workshops
They introduced themselves only by their first names – Silvia
View image in fullscreenOuter walls are lined with glazed stone slabs featuring excerpts of poems written by prisoners
Photograph: David Levene/The GuardianAfter an introduction to the prison
a middle-aged woman with neat jewellery and a confident manner
took the group through to the first venue for art: the staff bar
On the walls are displayed radical poster works by Corita Kent
with graphic messages protesting against war and violence
who died in 1986 and is the only deceased artist featured in the show
Silvia took the lead as guests entered a long
narrow walkway between the prison buildings and its outer walls
The sides are lined with glazed lava stone slabs
painted by the artist Simone Fattal with excerpts of poems written by the prisoners
“Our feelings are written here; a piece of us is written on these works of art,” said Emanuela
Depicting a large eye with a stroke through it
“what people don’t look at and what they don’t want to see”
View image in fullscreenAn artwork by Claire Fontaine conveying ‘the blindness of society’
installed below a lookout tower at the prison
Photograph: David Levene/The GuardianThe tour continued past a large
lush vegetable garden thick with fruit trees and rows of artichoke plants
“we can dream of other things; we can almost forget we are in prison”
A few inmates clustered beside a medieval well looked on as Emanuela explained a second Claire Fontaine work
a large neon text piece fixed to one of the walls reading: “Siamo con voi nella notte” – “We are with you in the night” – “which speaks to us as a message of solidarity from the people outside,” she said
View image in fullscreenZoë Saldaña and Marco Perego
Photograph: David Levene/The GuardianThe tour then trooped through the visitors’ room
to a space in which a short film by the artist Marco Perego and his wife
who starred in James Cameron’s Avatar films
acted alongside inmates in a narrative about a prisoner on the day of her release
she saidthe work was meant “not so much like a documentary that has to be truthful – instead we encouraged [the inmates] to make a piece of art with us”
The pavilion was commissioned by Cardinal José Tolentino de Mendonça, who runs the Vatican’s dicastery for culture and education. The co-curators Bruno Racine and Chiara Parisi took on the Vatican pavilion “on the basis of perfect trust with the cardinal
a former director of the National Library of France
“He understands the psychology of an artist and the desire for autonomy and not to be subject to the influence of ideas from outside.”
one of the artists involved in the project
the French hip-hop choreographer Bintou Dembélé
With a new shade available for its interiors
Ferrari continues to paint the automotive world red
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With the color red being such an integral part of the Ferrari brand for so long
it seems impossible for the brand to come up with new and different shades of it to feature in their cars
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Pope Francis arrived in Venice via helicopter from the Vatican early on Sunday
making the first stop of his pastoral visit to a women's penitentiary institution
gave a brief address and then listened attentively to groups of them as they came forward to thank him and offer gifts they made for the occasion
Pope Francis explained how he wished to be with them on this first event of his visit to Venice to assure them that they hold a "special place" in his heart
And he suggested that this moment be experienced less as an "official visit" and more as a special encounter together where "thanks be to God
closeness and fraternal affection" allowing for precious mutual enrichment. He added that God knows each one of us and that here today we each have something unique to give and receive that can benefit us all.
The Pope said it is the Lord who brings us together
and while the paths from which we have come vary
"some are very painful," also due to mistakes that have led to wounds and scars each carries within
He acknowledged the "harsh reality" of prison also due to overcrowding
and incidents of violence that add to the difficult reality.
he noted that prison can also offer a time for moral and physical rebirth where the dignity of women and men is not left in isolation
but "promoted through mutual respect and the nurturing of talents and abilities" each person has
He said sometimes these talents can be "dormant" or "isolated" by life's challenges
but they "can re-emerge for the good of all" with due attention and perseverance
He added that "no one can take away a person's dignity
prison time can allow for new beginnings through the "rediscovery of the undiscovered beauty in us and in others," the Pope said
"as symbolized by the artistic event you are hosting and the project to which you actively contribute."
Prison can become the worksite for rebuilding lives
The Pope underscored how important it is for prison systems to offer possibilities "for human
cultural and professional growth" that favour "healthy reintegration" in society
offering "new possibilities" that will benefit everyone
We have all made mistakes that need to be forgiven and wounds to heal
and when that happens the forgiven can themselves bring forgiveness to others
the Pope encouraged everyone to renew their trust in the future and "always look to the horizon
and we hold the rope in our hands and go forward with the rope anchored in the future.”
the Pope gave the inmates an icon of the Blessed Mother and Child
explaining how you can see the tenderness Mary has with all of us as "she is the Mother of tenderness."
Groups of inmates then came forward to greet the Pope
offering words of gratitude for his visit and expressing hopes for a better future for them and our world
They gave the Pope fruits of their efforts working in the prison-run cooperatives where they produce a variety of goods ranging from soaps
Thank you for reading our article. You can keep up-to-date by subscribing to our daily newsletter. Just click here
Artlyst
Venice Biennale 2024 – From Inside A Women’s Prison – Pavilion Of The Holy See – James Payne
The most coveted ticket at this year’s Venice Biennale was entry to the Giudecca women’s prison on an island in the lagoon
which dates back to the 13th century and was once a reformatory for prostitutes and unwed mothers
Because it is still a high-security women’s prison with limited accessibility and spaces
which few art goers have ever had the chance to visit
The exhibition in the prison is called With My Eyes and is the Vatican’s exhibition for the Holy See Pavilion
dedicated to the theme of human rights and people living on the margins of society
The curators have invited eight artists to participate: Maurizio Cattelan
there are a lot of rules and a lot of security
You cannot take in a phone (leave with the prison guards)
but you can take in a camera as long as you notify them beforehand with the make and type of camera
The tour is led by two prisoners on a rotation basis
and several guards follow the tour (25 people maximum) with huge sets of keys and a new door is opened only once all the previous ones are locked
the artist known for his hyper-realistic and often satirical sculptures
who came to the world’s attention with a provocative life-sized effigy of Pope John Paul II lying on his side
That work was created in 1999 and was called The Ninth Hour (La Nona Ora)
it seems the Vatican has forgiven him (mind you
His mural is painted on the façade of the prison chapel (we will visit it on the tour)
It is a huge depiction of his own dirty feet
based on the feet of Christ and referencing Andrea Mantegna’s painting Lamentation Over the Dead Christ
Our tour inside the prison is led by two middle-aged prisoners
of whom you are not allowed to ask personal questions or take photos of
They are extremely informative and make the tour so much more meaningful
which we are informed is only ever walked by female prisoners when arriving or leaving the institution
The alley is lined with enamelled lava plaques
a collaboration by prisoners (using their poems and letters) and the Syrian-Lebanese artist Simone Fattal
who has adapted them into text paintings and storytelling
Many are in languages other than Italian (One in English) reflecting that prisons don’t have borders
Installation view photo by Marco Cremascoli
is a work by the Italian-British artist duo Claire Fontaine of a neon eye with a line through it
the kind of symbol you see on social media warning you that the content is “hidden”
Our first stop is in the prison guard’s cafeteria
the walls are covered in works by Corita Kent
Kent was a nun known as Sister Mary Corita Kent or the pop art nun
She had an epiphany in 1962 when she went to see an Andy Warhol show in L.A.
but she was altogether more political than Warhol and created slogans attacking poverty
More or less forgotten after her death in 1986
The words “Siamo con voi nella notte” (“We are with you at night”) were first graffitied in front of the federal jail in Florence in the 1970s by the Italian prison reform movement
These words have been replicated in neon and are placed on the wall of the main prison yard
and our guide/inmate points out her own cell and tells us the women find the message and slight neon glow comforting at night
Then we are led through a small children’s playground where women can play with their visiting children and grandchildren under the watch of guards
The bright playthings are a poignant reminder that women are not just separated from society
cramped cinema has been set up in the inmates meeting room and we are invited to sit down
a 15-minute film by Italian director Marco Perego starring his wife
who plays an inmate in her final hours before release
and the other 20 actresses are inmates from the prison
It begins with beautiful shots of Venice waking up
Saldaña’s character walks through areas of the prison-like the laundry room
and then gets her civilian clothes from the guard (leaving behind a crucifix she had brought in with her)
and walks (through the same alleyway we did) into a courtyard
the inmates watch her leave and bang their tin mugs on a ledge in a time-honoured tradition to celebrate a prisoner’s release
It is a moment that the inmates (including the two leading us around) must dream about daily
and it is hard not to find it anything other than profoundly moving
we enter a picture gallery by Claire Tabouret who has created portraits from photos of inmates as children as well as their children and grandchildren
Some of the children pictured play or played on the playground we just saw
on Wednesdays and Saturdays between 10am and 2pm
One of our guides points out a painting that was created from her own treasured photo collection of herself as a one-year-old child learning to walk with her mother
The last stop is the Baroque-era chapel (Catallan’s mural is on the street/canal facing side) for “Sinfonia”
an installation by Brazilian artist Sonia Gomes
consisting of suspended sculptures hung among the balconies
and confessional booths in a chapel that once preached to fallen women and where many confessed their sins
Gomes has said that she wanted to take “the original function of the place
the Baroque convent for ‘reconverted’ women with the current life of the prison house
and the stories of women from all over the world.”
it had just been announced that the Pope was going to visit the Biennale for the first time and would also be visiting the women’s prison
The chapel seemed an appropriate place to ask them what they thought of this
The pavilion has faced some criticism over exploitation and for not addressing the broader concerns over women’s rights
as a way to break up the monotony of institutional life
and all of them volunteered to participate in the exhibition in some way
The women who guided us around told us that they found working on the project not just a distraction but therapeutic
and we all want to connect and to be visible
Why should this be different for prisoners
This exhibition is designed to make us confront our preconceived ideas about prison and the life of its inmates and to reflect on power structures and institutions
Holy See Pavilion” is on view through November 24 at the Guidecca Women’s Detention Home in Venice
To book (free) tickets, See Here
Read More
young people and thousands of faithful from this northern Italian region bordering the Adriatic Sea
Pope Francis greets people as he leaves St
Mark’s Square in Venice in a golf cart April 28
came to a standstill; many were marooned in small neighborhoods as security shut down entire streets and severely limited regular waterway traffic
The pope's early morning touchdown by helicopter from Rome April 28 brought him first to a women's prison
then by wooden motorboat to the Basilica of St
invoking her protection and intercession to end a devastating plague that killed nearly one-third of the population in the 1630s.
thank him and embrace the beauty that you are; fall in love with your life."
color the world with your creativity and paint the streets of life with the Gospel," he said
Young people must resist inertia and discouragement
"because we are made for Heaven." Tell God
"Here I am!" and recognize and welcome the gift of being made "precious and irreplaceable."
and everyone carries a priceless treasure inside that is meant to be shared with others
Recognizing this is the first step we should take in the morning when we wake up: get out of bed and accept yourself as a gift."
people are beautiful and fragile at the same time
Take care of these fragilities and recognize that God always extends a hand
even when one's friends are stuck at home behind screens and video games
but take advice from Venetian wisdom that says one can only go far by consistently and steadily rowing
Accompanied by a delegation of young people
Pope Francis then went by electric golf cart to St
Mark's Square by crossing a "bridge of boats," a floating pontoon bridge that is a traditional Venetian way of temporarily connecting opposite shores
staying at a waterfront hotel peered out their large balcony windows to see the unusual sight.
More than 10,000 people packed the huge square for Mass and to pray the "Regina Coeli." In his homily
the pope said Jesus' metaphor of being the grapevine while believers are the branches "expresses God's loving care for us; it also warns us that if we sever this connection with the Lord
we cannot produce fruits of good life and risk becoming dry branches
"This is what matters: to remain in the Lord
to dwell in him," which does not mean standing still or being passive
because to remain in the Lord means to grow in relationship with him."
"As we gaze upon this city of Venice today
we are also concerned about the many issues that threaten it: climate change
which impacts the waters of the lagoon and the land," he said.
He highlighted the problems facing the city's architecture
noting "the difficulty of creating an environment that is fit for human beings through adequate tourism management."
Christians must remain united to Christ so "we can bring the fruits of the Gospel into the reality we inhabit: fruits of justice and peace
fruits of solidarity and mutual care; carefully-made choices to preserve our environmental and human heritage," he said
Mark’s Square in Venice to attend Mass with Pope Francis April 28
Pope Francis accepts the offertory gifts as he celebrates Mass in St
Pope Francis delivers his homily as he presides over Mass in St
Pope Francis greets people from a golf cart as he rides around St
Mark's Square before his Mass in Venice April 28
Pope Francis prays in front of the relics of St
Pope Francis arrives by boat from Giudecca Island to the Basilica of St
About 1,500 young people gather with Pope Francis in front of the Basilica of St
special guests and artists at the chapel of the Giudecca women's prison in Venice April 28
Pope Francis gives his blessing to a female detainee inside the courtyard of the Giudecca women's prison in Venice April 28
Pope Francis talks to female detainees inside the courtyard of the Giudecca women's prison in Venice April 28
Highlights from Pope Francis' visit to Venice April 28
Catholic News Service has been providing complete
in-depth coverage of the popes and the Vatican for more than 70 years
faithful and informed connection to the Holy See
Cardinal Gugerotti urged electors to draw on Eastern Christian humility and let the Spirit
A Rome tailor is hoping the new pope will appear on the balcony of St
Peter's Basilica wearing a cassock he sewed himself
Cardinal Fernández said contempt for the poor can be masked in refined language and warns against false meritocracy that distorts..
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Made possible by funding from
a new initiative comprising project spaces
exhibitions and a foundation for young Polish art
launched yesterday during the Venice Biennale with a lively evening party
gardens and a couple of smart hotels and indeed was already the site of a number of artist studios
Now a couple of entrepreneurs—the curators Valentina Gioia Levy and Pier Paolo Scelsi—have created GAD that groups eleven projects
eight of which are part of the opening programme Take Care of your Garden
inspired by Voltaire’s famous and rather resigned maxim
some of which will last just a month and others into September
range from a video installation by Aleksandra Karpowicz and a solo show by the Paris-based
Norwegian digital artist Pia Myrvold (until 25 September) to a group show featuring Polish and Taiwanese artists (until 30 May)
organised by the Mediations Biennale Foundation in Poznan
Some projects are housed in disused workshops beside the boat yards and two are in the now-deconsecrated 16th-century church Santi Cosma e Damiano
not part of the programme but within the GAD network
which include Force Field (until 15 September)
a show of emerging Polish artists organised by the Starak Family Foundation
Jerzy Starak is one of Poland’s richest men and major collector of Polish art
the curator Levy said: “We have no sponsors
so each project supports itself.” As for the continuation of the programme after the summer
when most of the opening exhibitions will close
she said: “The idea is to create a permanent programme
and we will find the funds for each show,” and indeed some performances and exhibitions are already slated into December
• For all our coverage of the 58th edition of the Venice Biennale, click here
news6 February 2019Veteran Romanian artists to represent their country at Venice BiennaleThree artists who endured communist era will show new versions of installations
Share full article6565I wasn’t planning to be on vacation in a pandemic
It changed the way I’ll think about risk forever
I wasn’t planning to be on vacation in a pandemic
To hear more audio stories from publishers, like The New York Times, download Audm for iPhone or Android
with the World Health Organization reporting three cases of Covid-19 in Italy and 15 in the United States
one of the many water buses where Venetians and tourists jam and jostle
It was the second week of Venice’s Carnivale
and some people’s faces were covered by spooky masks
My immediate neighbors wore gigantic hoop skirts that rubbed against my lower legs like playful dogs
Our group of four adults and five offspring disembarked at San Marcuola to visit the former site of the Jewish ghetto
The teens and tweens overwhelmingly did not
even though three are Jewish and Venice’s ghetto is often considered the world’s first
Doge Leonardo Loredan relocated the Venetian Jewish population to the site of an old ironworks (geto in Venetian dialect)
where they were contained behind a stone wall
I might have talked briefly about acts committed by states and city-states and basically just people driven by the fear of religious and cultural contamination by outsiders
Instead we found the arch where the gates once hung
and where we could see the indentations left by the old hinges
still reporting three cases in Italy of Covid-19
the disease caused by the novel coronavirus
beyond which ships with their entire crew used to anchor for 40 days (quaranta giorni) during illness outbreaks
a practice dating back to the 14th century’s Black Death
was especially vulnerable to disease spread from distant lands via the comings and goings of ships (something that
given the seasonal megacruise invasions on the city
our temperatures were taken before we were allowed into the non-security-restricted area of Marco Polo Airport (which had become
in addition to “ghetto,” the medieval Venetians are credited
for introducing a second “containment” word to our vocabulary: “quarantine.”
with Italy reporting its first two deaths from Covid-19
we got on a plane to fly back to the United States
no one checked the temperatures of the passengers arriving from Italy’s outbreak hot spot
before we boarded our flight back to the United States
with the cancellation of Carnivale and the W.H.O
we realized that we had been more at risk on vacation than we had thought
there were a handful of Covid-19 cases in Europe when we left
by which I mean I was not worried about the virus’s hurting us
despite statistics that labeled us “low risk,” was odd
I’m either a ceaseless catastrophizer or a gifted psychic of the unlikely
It’s rare that I’ll have water or Band-Aids in my bag
but if you need a rigging knife or a piece of rope
My favorite it’s-late-and-I’m-alone-in-a-hotel TV show is “SOS: How to Survive,” hosted by the “survival expert” Creek Stewart
fond of bandanna ascots and factory-torn pants
finds real people who nearly died in the wild but didn’t
after his snowmobile became wedged in the ice
a Greco-Roman wrestling gold medalist might have better survived the negative-20-degree night if only he’d packed duct tape and a tampon
I trust my husband to cover the obvious dangers
The danger — a virus that threatened to become a pandemic — fell into the obvious category
I distributed little bottles of hand sanitizer that nobody used and everybody lost
my daughter’s friend wore a blue paper mask that became covered in chocolate and provided few barriers to anything
including the many jokes we made at her expense
my husband and I established our own ethical containment “border.” Even though there were no cases of Covid-19 in Venice (the outbreak was in Milan and throughout Lombardy)
and we were assumed to be unlikely carriers
we said to ourselves: If anyone comes down with a cough or a fever
abundantly cautious) step required a shift in our thinking
not unlike the shift I only semi-experienced in the Venice airport
when we had to go through security to leave security
Staying home is typically what a person does to avoid danger
This is the deep cognitive groove “home” has carved into our brains
in part because our daughter would soon be in college and we wanted to start investing in family vacations before she wouldn’t be going on them with us
I chose Acapulco because the hotel was cheap
presumably because of its location in a city my friend erroneously referred to as “the murder capital of the world” (an international list of cities “not at war” ranks Acapulco’s murder rate second)
State Department’s Level 4 (“Do Not Travel”) advisory for Guerrero state
(A less diplomatic — in all senses of the word — friend asked
Damascus?”) And yet I talked to people who lived in or frequently visited that part of Mexico
I learned from one that the highway between Mexico City and Acapulco should be avoided
and that instead of renting a car or taking a bus
A friend who owns a house in Acapulco told me: “Don’t go wandering around the back streets
All normal precautions for any big city.” I concluded: American tourists who practiced basic common sense were not exceptionally or even especially endangered
Far more endangered were the residents of Acapulco and rich Mexican nationals on vacation
But the consideration process — should we or should we not go
Our family wasn’t at risk of importing direct harm
and the anxiety experienced by our loved ones aside
He has a fellowship this year that comes with a workspace
A new policy had just been instituted: Travelers to Italy could not return to the office for 14 days
My husband was four days shy of meeting this mark
I unhelpfully pointed out that he had been home for a week and a half
he’d been to the office many times and if he’d been infected with the coronavirus (I very much doubted he was)
he had regularly contaminated the shared kitchen
the communal table and probably more than one of his officemates
wasn’t told by the New York public school where she teaches to stay home
Neither my daughter nor any of the over 6,000 children she goes to high school with were asked where they’d been over the break
tracked the travel itineraries of people currently affiliated with the university and issued multi-daily updates and guidance
Yet the sum result of my family members’ and friends’ memberships with these many groups
each of which responded with differing degrees of vigilance or indifference
also the author of a book about the first summiting of Mount Everest
It’s no mystery why I’m obsessed with survival-in-the-wild accounts in books and on TV: These stories are about a single person against the world
who calms herself by strategizing how to avoid unlikely tragic outcomes (a coping strategy primarily
available to those whose daily life is defined by safety)
I had established danger as the thing existing outside the gates of my life
head-warping perspective shift (especially during a pandemic) to accept the inverse: You are the danger
the place I guess I’d stay in order to avoid all the world’s danger
for reasons I guess I’ve long accepted as logical ones
though what it might symbolize has nothing to do with logic
Two other gates — one set facing Broadway and Barnard College
the other facing 114th Street — are only occasionally locked
on either end of what is known as College Walk
are “access restricted” only during graduation
Almost every time the campus security guards line up to calmly funnel the students wearing blue gowns inside the gates before they close
I’m reminded of the ’60s protest footage I’ve watched
when city police officers padlocked the same gates with a giant chain
the students were protesting while outside other students were trying to break through the gates
whether celebrators are being kept out or in
The land on which the university is built has a history of institutions that unofficially protect the people outside from the inside
The Bloomingdale Insane Asylum occupied the campus grounds from 1821 to 1889
isolated the patients from the city’s presumably healthier population
as did the topography (the neighborhood was and is on top of a high
The stigma of mental illness discouraged any surrounding development until after the Bloomingdale closed
a professor at the Columbia Graduate School of Architecture
Planning and Preservation and author of a history of Morningside Heights
explains how the institution and its patients were seen as “a blight on the neighborhood.”
other large institutions — Columbia University
Luke’s Hospital — started to build on the plateau during the early 1890s
and soon after it blocks and blocks of residential apartment buildings (my 12-story apartment building was built in 1912; the one across the street in 1910)
by time and need and opportunity and forgetting
Only a single building from the asylum remains — it’s in the middle of the Columbia campus — and not even as a reminder
Few of the people walking past it have any idea what it is
resulting in three very young teenagers’ being charged in connection with her death
This multipronged tragedy provoked many conversations outside and inside about outside and inside and how these lingering distinctions perpetuated harm
the gates — as property lines or symbols — became superfluous
nobody appeared to be inside or outside them
No tourists taking photos of the libraries
As Covid-19 extended its influence beyond whatever borders or containment measures
the questions of where (and on which side of which boundary) a person was safer became harder and harder to answer
as were whether a person was the victim of danger or danger’s unwitting perpetrator
and what counts as “security,” and who is going through it
It would seem that I’m building to the following admission: And then we all tested positive for the virus
Though no one in my family has ever exhibited any symptoms of Covid-19 (a month later
we’ll never be able to know with 100 percent certainty that we didn’t have it
which we assumed they brought with them from the United States)
the one who was in northern Italy at the same time (we ran into him in the airport)
and who came down with a bad cough upon his return and was told by his New York doctor
It’s nearly impossible for me to perfectly recount or recall how our understanding of the coronavirus
both its behavior and our relationship to its spread
What was deemed abundantly cautious on Wednesday morning became common sense by Wednesday night
is when I learned that Rhode Island’s first two cases were a man and a teenage girl who visited Italy the same week we did
Ditto Massachusetts’s second presumptive case
More and more small outbreaks in the United States and elsewhere could be traced to people who were in northern Italy
I counted the few remaining hours until we were technically in the clear
Should we have kept our son home this whole time
but that the school didn’t have a policy about travelers to Italy
that it had only just occurred to her that maybe — maybe
For such a calamity obsessive — for a person with a rope and a knife in her bag
a person who lives nearly exclusively in the future
running worst-case scenarios — Day 12 was a moment of reckoning
I’m still trying to understand how I failed to activate the arguably most excellent part of my mind — its department of disaster preparedness — when it truly
Instead the only messages issued from that department were we’re not sick
(Some deeper and vaguely threatening communiqué
sent by the director of the department of disaster preparedness
the one hired and given a lifelong appointment by generations of my stoic ancestors
subconsciously overrode all other messages with this one: WE
was the crisis moment the department had been trained to competently seize over the past 50 years
no matter the official government threat level
that my daughter never switch trains at Times Square during rush hour
The one that saw or foresaw danger everywhere
Which makes the following seem even more illogical
With another school break on the heels of the last — we were meant
as we had not needed to just a few weeks earlier
a list of “risk considerations.” Our teenage daughter would be staying home alone
Now we wondered if one of us should remain with her
because who knew whether the government would suddenly restrict domestic travel
waiting to be tested with test kits that nobody had
(A person I consulted had to remind me about a variable I’d forgotten to consider: What if your daughter gets sick while she’s by herself?) Regardless
focused solely on the danger the world posed to us
The flight and hotel charges still sat collecting interest on a credit card
Despite the lessons supposedly learned after Italy
it wasn’t until March 11 that we accepted — we could not go
and not because we were in danger of getting stuck
We could not go because we risked being the unwitting mules of harm
the handful of people worked at a safe distance from one another
The feeling we speechlessly shared was not fear or concern but respect and good will
as well as the perversely energized flush of end-times solidarity
the few scattered humans didn’t wave or speak or in any way acknowledge one another
but for once our stress was the same stress
I felt quite strongly that the university needed
the idea of future tourists taking photos of the places where the hinges once hung
because I’d come down with a fever or developed a cough
I wouldn’t be avoiding danger by staying in my home
Part of the reason we went to Venice was that we’d never been before
The water that had so long protected the city from outside contamination
so named (though this remains conjecture) because the first Jewish settlers in Venice lived on the opposite island
we could see the darkened lines of the latest acqua alta event
which reached a third of the way up many of the front doors and surpassed the height of the windowsills
we didn’t know just how quickly Venice would become unvisitable
We made jokes about how travel magazines needed to recalibrate their “the best time to visit” predictions
in order to foresee brief Venn-diagram windows of overlapping disasters
ones that would render the streets of overtouristed cities like Venice less swollen and stampeded by people like us
The first video is a close-up of a wall in the Ca’ d’Oro palazzo
because the sun was reflecting off the canal
was a beautiful milky turquoise color that I’d never seen before in my life
I told one of the teenagers that I badly wanted to swim in it
She announced that I’d get really sick if I did that
Even by suggesting I was open to swimming in the canal
The other video is of some swaying seaweed
attached to the stone wall lining the Giudecca
like a marine millipede with many legs frayed into willowy tines
A length of dental floss is caught between a few of the filaments
peacefully undulates in the wake thrown by the vaporettos coming and going along the lagoon
bringing the people with cameras and masks deeper and deeper into the city
I was sad that I hadn’t found a trashless stretch of seaweed to commemorate my visit to Venice
the dental floss — a little squiggle of optimism and humility (if dental floss could convey either) — seemed oddly to belong
I always watch with the volume up to hear the sloshing and the squeaky rubbing of the docks
humble anthem could be written to that music
Heidi Julavits is the author of four novels and one book of nonfiction, “The Folded Clock.” She last wrote for the magazine about what she learned in avalanche school.
Establishing a presence in the heart of Europe
the Berggruen Institute today held its first event in Casa dei Tre Oci in Venice
the historic building it has now formally acquired from the Fondazione di Venezia through the Nicolas Berggruen Charitable Trust
The Institute intends to make Casa dei Tre Oci its center of European activity: a gathering place for global dialogue and new ideas
housing an international program of summits
and exhibitions in the visual arts and architecture
To mark this milestone in its ten-year history
the Institute announced in Casa dei Tre Oci that philosopher Peter Singer is the 2021 recipient of the $1 million Berggruen Prize for Philosophy and Culture
given annually to thinkers whose ideas have profoundly shaped human self-understanding and advancement in a rapidly changing world
Peter Singer will receive the Prize in the Spring of 2022 in a ceremony to be held in Los Angeles
Commenting on the acquisition of Casa dei Tre Oci
‘You take delight not in a city’s seven or seventy wonders
but in the answer it gives to a question of yours.’ We see Venice as a gateway for those seeking answers to the most pressing questions and challenges of our time—and Casa dei Tre Oci as the nexus of the Institute’s work in developing ideas to build a better world
We are deeply grateful to take this step forward with the Fondazione di Venezia in establishing a European presence
We look forward to developing our program at the Tre Oci in the coming years.”
said “I thank Nicolas Berggruen for the collaborative spirit that the Institute brought to the Fondazione di Venezia in acquiring Casa dei Tre Oci
We celebrate the realization of a project of international stature consistent with the institutional purpose of the Fondazione and with the history and character of this building
With Casa dei Tre Oci continuing to be the site of constructive discussion on contemporary issues
we look forward to the prospects of its future cooperation with other institutions in Venice
placing it at the center of the city’s cultural life.”
In centering its European program at Casa dei Tre Oci
the Berggruen Institute will preserve the building’s function and identity as part of the cultural fabric of Venice
Tre Oci will attract local and international guests
scientists and technologists—across cultures
and political boundaries—to develop and promote long-term answers to the biggest challenges of the 21st century
the Fondazione di Venezia will continue to use the Tre Oci to present its program of photography exhibitions for two years and will potentially work with the Institute on future exhibitions
Designed as a private home and studio by the artist Mario De Maria and built on the Giudecca in 1913
the neo-Gothic Casa dei Tre Oci has a long history of hosting artists and intellectuals (including participants in the Venice Biennale) and serving as a venue for cultural meetings and debates
The Fondazione di Venezia acquired the Tre Oci in 2000
conducted a careful architectural restoration
and in 2012 reopened the building to the public as a space for photography exhibitions
the Regional Directorate for Cultural and Landscape Heritage of the Veneto declared the Tre Oci to be an asset of historical and artistic interest
Berggruen Arts & Culture will present a series of artist conversations in partnership with ArtReview at Casa dei Tre Oci
The Lagoon City of Venice is ready to welcome Pope Francis on Sunday
for his one-day visit with the motto "Remaining united in the love of Christ."
from the Vatican at 6:30 am and is scheduled to land at about 8 am in the Square in front of the Giudecca Women’s Prison Facility which houses about 80 inmates
deliver an address and listen to some of their stories
Archbishop Francesco Moraglia notes in this interview by Vatican News
the Holy Father’s meeting with women who are suffering is characteristic of his style and sets the tone for a visit undertaken in the spirit of mercy
What does Pope Francis' presence mean for your diocese and how do you interpret the choice of the Giudecca prison as the first stop of his visit
and especially having chosen it as the first stop of his visit to the entire Church of Venice
It asks the city and those who may be “resistant” to setting their gaze on this place of expiation and pain
to strive to make it increasingly one of redemption
of human and spiritual growth for the guests who are present here
the guests have long stays and in a way makes things
simpler because it leads to a certain familiarity
on the other more difficult because having to stay in a restricted perimeter for a long time can become problematic
I thank the Holy Father for his choice and for his intuition
I believe that from now on this prison will always remain
not only for those who have had this experience of the Pope's visit
a way of understanding justice with mercy and wanting to bet on people who have certainly made mistakes
The Giudecca is not only a place of confinement but
since the beginning of the 60th edition of the International Venice Biennale
it has been dedicated to the theme of “the stranger” and is a place that hosts works of art born from the encounter between the inmates and artists…
there is a significant presence of non-Italian guests in the prisons
and here too many foreigners find themselves living in this place of expiation and suffering
usually to others but particularly to those who are strangers because we have not yet met them
Focusing on this theme – because the Gospel says that the eyes are the mirror of the soul – I believe it is the key that can truly help us to grow in a very difficult context for harmony between peoples and individuals
and mercy held together by how we look at them
Is there a particular artwork that struck you in the Holy See Pavilion that is entitled "With My Eyes"
the artwork at the entrance (created by the Brazilian artist Sonia Gomes)
the garments worn by the women hanging from above reach the ground but remain suspended
It seems to me a beautiful image of man and woman who are the custodians of humanity
which bear the signs of daily struggle and are suspended between heaven and earth
Venice Photo courtesy of the Berggruen Institute
The Paris-born collector Nicolas Berggruen is expanding his empire
acquiring the historic Casa dei Tre Oci in Venice which will act as the European base for his cultural thinktank known as the Berggruen Institute
The billionaire plans to use the space to host symposia
workshops and exhibitions in partnership with major museums such as London's Tate and the Museum of Modern Art in New York
Berggruen signed a preliminary agreement in March to buy the Venetian landmark building on the Giudecca island. The prime piece of Venice real estate was acquired for the Berggruen Institute from the Fondazione di Venezia by the Nicolas Berggruen Charitable Trust.
Earlier this week, the Institute announced at the Casa dei Tre Oci that the Australian philosopher and Princeton professor Peter Singer is the latest recipient of the $1m Berggruen Prize for Philosophy and Culture, given annually to “thinkers whose ideas have profoundly shaped human self-understanding and advancement in a rapidly changing world”, according to a statement. Singer advocates “utilitarianism”, a philosophy based on maximising happiness and well-being.
The Casa dei Tre Oci, built on the Giudecca in 1913, was the private home and studio of the artist Mario De Maria. During the Venice Biennale, the neo-Gothic property is a popular meeting point for artists and arts professionals.
The Berggruen Institute, located in a downtown Los Angeles venue, focuses “on four big issues: democracy, capitalism, geopolitics and globalisation, and the transformations of the human”, says Berggruen. The former UK prime minister Tony Blair sit on the institute’s governance group.
La Casa dei Tre Oci will be the Berggruen Institute's space for its European programming with plans to partner with major museums such as Tate and MoMA
news16 March 2022Billionaire collector Nicolas Berggruen snaps up his second Venetian palace Scheduled to open in 2024
Palazzo Diedo will house an exhibition and art residency space
The Holy See Pavilion at the 60th International Art Exhibition – Venice Biennale—to go on display in the Giudecca Women’s Prison—will illustrate the ability of inmates to welcome art to transform their lives
This was the message conveyed at the press conference held at the Holy See Press Office on Monday regarding the Pavilion, which will take place in the northern Italian city from 20 April to 24 November 2024
The project is unprecedented for the Venice Biennale
thanks to its physical and conceptual installation inside the Giudecca Women's Prison
Presenters at the press event were Cardinal José Tolentino de Mendonça
prefect of the Dicastery for Culture and Education; Giovanni Russo
head of the Department of Prison Administration of the Ministry of Justice of the Italian Republic; Dr
curator of the Holy See Pavilion; and, Dr. Paolo Maria Vittorio Grandi, Chief Governance Officer of Intesa Sanpaolo
Entitled “With My Own Eyes,” the Pavilion is dedicated to the theme of human rights and people living on the margins of society
and seeks to draw the world’s attention to those people who are largely ignored while fostering a culture of encounter
The Holy See Pavilion invites the viewer to take Pope Francis’ words literally
as he invites everyone to look others directly in the eyes
looking beyond their social status to encounter their humanity
"Contemporary culture prefers to metaphorize sight," said Cardinal Mendonça
"But seeing with one's own eyes gives vision a unique status
as it directly involves us in reality and makes us not spectators but witnesses."
The 2024 Art Biennale of Venice bears the title “Foreigners Everywhere” and will be open from April 20 until November 24
Pope Francis will make a one-day pastoral visit to Venice
where he will make a stop at the Exhibition
making him the first Pope in history to attend the Venice Biennale.
The Holy Father will take a moment to appreciate the Pavilion at the exhibit in the Prison
and will spend some time with members of the Church community in Venice
Cardinal José Tolentino de Mendonça told the journalists present
Cardinal Mendonça said, "It is with great joy that we welcomed the news of Pope Francis's visit to the Pavilion."
"It will be a historic moment," the Cardinal Prefect underscored
"as he will be the first Pope to visit the Venice Biennale
which clearly demonstrates the Church's willingness to consolidate a fruitful and close dialogue with the world of arts and culture."
The Cardinal stressed that it is no coincidence that the Holy See has chosen to present its pavilion at the Venice Biennale in a seemingly unexpected place
such as the Women's Prison on the island of Giudecca
He added that neither is it a "coincidence that the title of the pavilion
'With My Own Eyes,' aims to focus our attention on the importance of how we responsibly conceive
Regaining the ability to look at reality as a starting point for redesigning it
is what Pope Francis stressed during his meeting with artists in June 2023 in the Sistine Chapel
when he urged artists to "have the ability to dream new versions of the world."
The year in which the Art Biennale celebrates its 60th anniversary
also marks 60 years since the first showing of Pier Paolo Pasolini's film "The Gospel According to Matthew," which was first screened in Venice
the Cardinal recalled that Chapter 25 of St
'For I was hungry and you gave me something to eat...,' remains "one of the most commented biblical texts by Pope Francis" throughout his pontificate
Cardinal Mendonça expressed his gratitude to the Italian authorities
the Ministry of Justice represented by the Head of the Department of the National Penitentiary Administration
all collaborating in the realization of the pavilion
the president of the Department of Prison Administration of Italy's Ministry of Justice
stressing that artistic work and commitment help inmates rebuild their lives
has put them in contact with universal values
and helps them have confidence in themselves."
to be "protagonists," in a way "that connected them with universal values" and "with great spiritual and practical value."
and recalled that the women's prison had before been a convent that had helped women rediscover their dignity through the Church's help
with a very beautiful history," he stressed
also discussed its work to include the spontaneous contributions of inmates
illustrating how their involvement greatly enriches the venue
Dr. Paolo Maria Vittorio Grandi, Chief Governance Officer of Intesa Sanpaolo
spoke of the bank's great dedication to art
"This is not a matter of philanthropy
but rather part of what it means to be part of the group of Intesa Sanpaolo."
Fàbrica 33, Calle Larga dei Boteri, Cannaregio
Photo-documentation of works in transit for By the Means at Hand (2024)
There are “foreigners everywhere” says the title of this year’s international Biennale exhibition and Vlatka Horvat has enlisted some of them for her Croatian pavilion. She has invited fellow artists who are living away from their homelands to create a small-scale work and send it to her in Venice. In return they will get one of Horvat’s photo-montages of Venice—she is using the pavilion as a temporary studio during the Biennale.
The twist is that the works have to be delivered through informal means – passed on hand-to-hand by networks of strangers. This underlines the importance of improvised support networks both for people living in foreign lands and for artists everywhere. The exhibition includes an ever-changing display of the works that have come in, as well as records of how they got there. Horvat hopes the finished collection will be preserved as a whole by an institution.
Edith Karlson’s Hora Lupi (2024) Photo: © Anu Vahtra
With my eyes, Maurizio Cattelan, Bintou Demélé, Simone Fattal, Claire Fontaine, Sonia Gomes, Corita Kent, Marco Perego and Zoe Saldana, Claire Tabouret
Claire Fontaine in the Holy See pavilion Photo: © Marco Cremascoli
Traces: On the Body and on the Land, Giana De Dier, Cisco Merel, Brooke Alfaero, Isabel de Obaldía
Isabel de Obaldía, Selva (2014) © The Art Newspaper
BulgariaThe Neighbours, Krasimira Butseva, Julian Chehirian and Lilia TopouzovaSala Tiziano-Centro Culturale Don Orinoe Artigianelli, Fondamenta Delle Zattere Ai Gesuati 919
Krasimira Butseva, Julian Chehirian and Lilia Topouzova's The Neighbours in the Bulgarian pavilion Image: courtesy of the Bulgarian pavilion
The Bulgarian pavilion recreates a darkened apartment from the country’s Communist era to tell the stories of survivors of political violence. Different elements are activated sporadically throughout the domestic setting: a record player blares before swiftly switching off, bird song plays in the background, lights flicker ominously over a straw bed, a sewing machine suddenly whirrs into life, making visitors jump.
so we've rounded up a few things you might want to skip
review17 April 2024Venice Biennale 2024: the must-see pavilions in the ArsenaleArtists draw with their eyes and play with Zeus at the city's former shipyards and armories
review16 April 2024Venice Biennale 2024: the must-see pavilions in the GiardiniFrom cocoa-covered creations
here is our selection of top shows from the first preview day
staff and volunteers at Giudecca jail during first trip outside Rome for months
The pope has met female prisoners in Venice who are stars of the Vatican’s pavilion at the Biennale contemporary art show
and urged the women to rebuild their lives in the first ever papal visit to one of the world’s biggest art gatherings
arrived by helicopter in the courtyard of the women’s prison on the island of Giudecca
He has not travelled outside Rome since visiting the French city of Marseille in September
who throughout his papacy has spoken up in defence of prisoners and the marginalised
encouraged the women to reconstruct their lives “brick upon brick
with determination” during their time in prison
Francis called on the prison system to “offer detainees the tools and room for human, spiritual, cultural and professional growth, creating the conditions for their healthy reintegration”.
Read moreThe pope toured an art exhibition housed at the prison which examines the daily lives of the inmates through the work of 10 different artists. The exhibit is the Vatican’s entry for this year’s Biennale festival of art
View image in fullscreenPope Francis said the artistic event could symbolise ‘the beginning of something new’ for the prisoners
Photograph: Vatican Pool/Getty ImagesAs some of the women wept
a stay in prison can mark the beginning of something new
through the rediscovery of the unsuspected beauty in us and in others
as symbolised by the artistic event you are hosting and the project to which you actively contribute,” he said
The Vatican exhibit has turned the Giudecca prison – once a convent for reformed prostituted women – into one of the must-see attractions of this year’s Biennale
visitors must reserve in advance and go through a security check
It has become an unusual art world attraction
with visitors greeted at the entrance by Maurizio Cattelan’s wall mural of two giant filthy feet
a work that recalls Caravaggio’s dirty feet or the feet that Francis washes each year in a Holy Thursday ritual that he routinely performs on prisoners
Francis’s visit represented “a historic moment because he will be the first pope to visit the Venice Biennale,” said the exhibition’s lead curator
during a meeting with young people at the iconic Santa María della Salute basilica
Francis acknowledged the miracle that is Venice
admiring its “enchanting beauty” and tradition as a place of east-west encounters
but warning that it was increasingly vulnerable to climate change and depopulation
“Venice is at one with the waters upon which it sits,” Francis said
“Without the care and safeguarding of this natural environment
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sinking under rising sea levels and weighed down by the impact of overtourism
is in the opening days of an experiment to try to limit the sort of day trips that Francis undertook on Sunday
This weekend, the city launched a new entry fee for daytrippers
aimed at easing the pressure of tourism on the Unesco world heritage site
the head of the Catholic church was exempt from buying a €5 (£4.25) ticket – but non-resident pilgrims visiting for his mass had to pay
But he said the city also faced an array of challenges
all these realities risk generating … frayed social relations
a bout of bronchitis forced the pope to cancel a trip to Dubai
where he was to have addressed UN climate talks
He also pulled out of an Easter event at the last minute in March
after suffering for several weeks from what the Vatican called a “light flu”
has suffered increasing health problems in recent years
from knee pain to surgery for a hernia and on his colon
the Vatican is planning for him an ambitious 12-day trip to Asia in September
the pope is due to make two other trips within Italy: to Verona in May and Trieste in July
Pope Francis gives his blessing to a female detainee inside the courtyard of the Giudecca women’s prison in Venice April 28
20240428T1125-POPE-VENICE-PRISON-1775747 web
Italy — The rusted wrought iron frame and grate of an old well became a garden of crocheted flowers inside the courtyard of the Giudecca women’s prison in Venice
The handmade garlands also adorned the archways’ brick columns and copper drainpipes
prison staff and volunteers applauded and smiled when Pope Francis told them he wanted to meet them first on his one-day visit to Venice April 28 to tell them
he wanted their moment together to be a chance to “give each other time
“Today we will all leave this courtyard richer — perhaps the one who will leave richer will be me — and the good we will exchange will be precious,” said the pope
who has visited over a dozen prisons in his 11-year-long pontificate
“Prison is a harsh reality and problems such as overcrowding
the lack of facilities and resources and episodes of violence
give rise to a great deal of suffering there,” he said
But the women’s time in detention can also become an occasion of “moral and material rebirth” because no one can ever take away a person’s dignity
their dignity can be promoted through mutual respect and “the nurturing of talents and abilities
perhaps dormant or imprisoned by the vicissitudes of life
but which can re-emerge for the good of all and which deserve attention and trust.”
It can be a time for a courageous look at and an evaluation of one’s own life
it is fundamental also for the prison system to offer detainees the tools and room for human
creating the conditions for their healthy reintegration.”
never to give up and always look to the future with hope
“I like to think of hope as an anchor that is anchored in the future
and we go forward with the rope anchored in the future.”
Several women presented the pope with gifts they and other detainees made in the prison’s different workshops
One basket was filled with samples of their soaps
shampoos and other natural products and a red bag contained a handmade white zucchetto tailored by the women
The pope also received a small basket filled with white and yellow crocheted roses made by the same women who decorated the courtyard
to symbolize the fight against violence against women
was the site of the Holy See’s pavilion for the Venice Biennale art exhibition
The women were encouraged to contribute to the exhibit
and one unidentified detainee told the pope they were “shocked and full of joy” to be asked to participate and to feel “useful.”
Pope Francis is the first pope to attend the Venice Biennale
which is a prestigious international art exhibition featuring art
prefect of the Dicastery for Culture and Education and curator of the Holy See’s pavilion
welcomed the pope inside the prison chapel
which was decorated with dozens of festoons made from colorful fabrics
knits and other objects hanging from the ceiling
special guests and artists whose work was showcased in the pavilion: Maurizio Cattelan
Marco Perego and Zoe Saldana and Claire Tabouret
“We must not forget that in the history of the church’s relationship with the arts there have also been ambiguities and harsh tensions,” the cardinal said in his remarks
The pope’s visit to the biennale was a clear sign of ushering in “a new style” where different views can be “woven” together in freedom as part of a more “authentic journey we can make together” rather than an “obsessive assertion of power,” the cardinal said
“This pavilion is a testimony to that,” he said
because they did not seek out “safe” artists but invited people to present what they themselves see
we chose to be tenants and neighbors rather than hosts.”
Pope Francis said he wanted to meet and thank the artists personally; “the world needs artists,” he said
“It would be important if the various artistic practices could establish themselves everywhere as a sort of network of cities of refuge
cooperating to rid the world of the senseless and by now empty oppositions that seek to gain ground in racism
that terrible neologism that means ‘fear of the poor,’ ” he said
to imagine cities that do not yet exist on the maps: cities where no human being is considered a stranger,” he said
“We are proposing to be ‘brothers and sisters everywhere,’ ” he said
The Holy See’s pavilion is dedicated to the theme
“We all need to be looked at and to dare to look at ourselves.”
Jesus looks at everyone with “a love that does not judge but knows how to be close and to encourage
And I would say that art educates us in this type of outlook
but neither indifferent nor superficial,” he said
The pope criticized the predatory exaltation and commercialization of art that risks “preying on creativity
coldly instructing on what is to be done.”
He also encouraged listening to women artists “because they have something important to teach us
I am thinking of artists such as Frida Khalo
“I hope with all my heart that contemporary art can open our eyes
helping us to value adequately the contribution of women
as co-protagonists of the human adventure,” he said
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ChevronChevronPhotosSave this storySaveSave this storySaveReviewed by Jenna ScatenaYou've just walked in: Give us your first impression.As the name suggests
Situated at the top of the Hilton Molino Stucky Venice on Giudecca island
the views stretch all the way to Piazza San Marco
and hightop tables provide differing perspectives on the cinematic views—which are the best you’ll find in town
So who’s there?This Venice bucket list bar draws nearly all the well-heeled travelers coming through town and the ritzy outfits match the views
prepared for an obligatory sunset photoshoot
What's on offer for food?The food menu is much more limited than the drink menu, but Italian bar bites and Mediterranean salads are available.
How did you find the staff?The professional staff here goes above and beyond, offering modifications to suit guests’ palates.
What's the bottom line?You should come for sunset—but to do so, you’ll need to book ahead, or come well before the actual sunset to stake out an ideal table. During summer, live music and DJs inject a celebratory vibe into the atmosphere.
The Sunday TimesIn a city where an estimated 20m of the 30m annual tourists come for a day’s hit-and-run on the Rialto and St Mark’s
Giudecca is a rare place where you’re more likely to jostle with a shopping trolley than a suitcase
I’m here with a single aim: to avoid the hordes
I don’t want to mix with the selfie-takers and packed-lunch eaters who have hit the headlines in recent years
I don’t want to see the Grand Canal or the Doge’s Palace
I do want to spend my money at local businesses
on people who have to live in a theme park
Maurizio Cattelan’s mural decorates the exterior of Giudecca Women’s Prison | all images courtesy of the Holy See’s Dicastery for Culture and Education
Before even entering the venue, the Holy See Pavilion (find more here) redefines the prison space into an otherworldly setting
A striking mural by artist Maurizio Cattelan adorns the detention center’s facade
a diverse array of artworks awaits guests: neon installations by Claire Fontaine
vibrant pieces by the renowned Pop Art Nun Corita Kent
video works by Marco Perego & Zoe Saldana
Visits to the Pavilion are strictly by reservation and guided by prisoner-conferencers
challenging the voyeuristic urge and preconceptions towards both artists and inmates
This blurs the lines between observer and observed
prompting reflection on power dynamics within art and institutions
overseen by COR arquitectos and Flavia Chiavaroli Studio
embodies an artistic community born from defiance
reflecting the unity and diversity of disparate lives
echoing the urgency of the multifaceted dialogue advocated by Pope Francis
becoming the first Pontiff in history to attend the Venice Biennale
one of Claire Fontaine’s neon light pieces
Cardinal José Tolentino de Mendonça
Prefect of the Holy See’s Dicastery for Culture and Education and Commissioner of the Pavilion
entrusted the curatorship of Con i miei occhi to Chiara Parisi and Bruno Racine
‘In a surprising corner of the world
artists and female inmates join expressive forces in an unusual collaboration
prison reality and unlimited artistic expression meet and seduce each other: this is the heart of the Holy See Pavilion at the Biennale Arte 2024
a project with an incredible visual narrative
With My Eyes invites us to explore the stories and desires of those living inside the prison through projects
and vital spaces such as gyms and gardens,’ Chiara Parisi says
will allow female inmates to guide visitors ‘through their eyes,’ revealing how beauty and hope are woven into everyday life and how the need for freedom persists in the complexity and criticality of life.’
Artists from various backgrounds and without distinction of faith come together in this place to bear witness to a universal message of inclusion
working closely with the inmates and enriching the project with their artistic and relational work,’ Bruno Racine shares
‘Visitors are invited to immerse themselves in this intense poetic experience
deprived of their digital devices and guided by trained female inmates
thus embarking on a journey that challenges preconceptions and opens up new perspectives on art as a medium for human expression and connection
Although it is forbidden to take photographs
we trust that this experience will remain in the visitor’s memory…with their eyes.’
Sonia Gomes is composed of multiple fabric sculptures
close-up shot of Claire Tabouret’s works
Corita Kent’s works are installed within the spaces of the detention center
Claire Fontaine’s installation illuminates in the dark
the piece reads ‘siamo con voi nella notte’ meaning ‘we are with you in the night’
happening now! partnering with antonio citterio, AXOR presents three bathroom concepts that are not merely places of function, but destinations in themselves — sanctuaries of style, context, and personal expression.
Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe? Generator brought its signature brand of design-savvy backpacker hostels to Venice in 2013, when it opened on Giudecca island. Some folks will love this un-touristed offshoot, which has a view across the water to Piazza San Marco; others will be irritated by the fact that there’s no way to the center other than a (rather expensive) ferry.
What's the backstory? Venice’s old ostello was a sad place until the Generator chain moved in and gave it a sharp designer makeover, all while preserving the palazzo’s historic architectural features.
Is there a charge for Wi-Fi? Wi-fi, included in the room rate, is good.
Drinking and dining—what are we looking at? There are many evenings when the ground floor of Generator is party central—something to bear in mind if you’re a light sleeper or staying with kids. There are cooked or continental breakfast options (all extra); food in the restaurant and drinks at the bar are slightly cheaper than elsewhere in town.
What type of travelers will you find here? Backpackers and budget travelers.
What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene? On sunny days and warm evenings, Generator guests spread across the quiet footpath on Giudecca island, basking in the sun and taking in the view across the water.
Bottom line: Worth it? Why? In high season, this hotel—like just about everything in Venice—is more expensive than you might expect for dorm-like digs. But that doesn’t stop it being wildly popular.
A major exhibition of Hermann Nitsch (Vienna
is being held in Venice at the Oficine 800 space at Fondamenta San Biagio on the island of Giudecca
titled 20th Painting Action runs from April 19 to July 20
in collaboration with Helmut Essl’s private collection and Galerie Kandlhofer
the only pictorial action of the artist whose works are entirely kept in the same collection
it will be possible to see the works for the first time in Italy since their creation.“To every age
its freedom”: this is the motto of art critic Ludwig Hevesi that can be read above the portal of the Wiener Secession in Vienna
Only a few artists have tested the boundaries of freedom as consistently as Hermann Nitsch (and been attacked for doing so
Nitsch clung to his idea of the fusion of all the arts and stands today as one of the major figures in 20th-century art history
Nitsch created a total work of art for all the senses; he expanded the traditional parameters of painting and theater; he brought worship
found at the beginning of the evolution of art
back into contemporary art; he fused art with life
was the pioneer ofViennese Actionism: on November 18
during which the painting no longer depicted anything outside the painting itself but represented pure color
the immediate gesture and its precise occurrence in time
In 1957 Nitsch began to elaborate the idea of his Orgien Mysterien Theater
Influenced by the philosophy of Nietzsche and Schopenhauer
Greek tragedy and the concept of the “total work of art” developed by Richard Wagner
Nitsch conceived of a gigantic totalizing theatrical act
a synaesthetic experience lasting several days
Among the themes he pours intoOrgien Mysterien Theater are the story of Oedipus
the Grail legend and the legend of the Nibelungen
overlapping religion and myth in a grand cultural collage
The fundamental purpose of the broad mass of ideas that makes up his Orgien Mysterien Theater is the intensification of the experience of life and the increased joy of existence that comes with it
art takes on the same functions performed by religions
devoting himself exclusively to his actions and working on the creation of his last 6-Tages -Spiel (Six-Day Theater)
Nitsch returned toaction painting-a decision to be interpreted not only as functional to his work
but also as a critical response to the painting of the Neuen Wilden (New Savages)
malaktion he made at the Wiener Secession in 1987 stands out in importance because of its scope
and the subjective significance Nitsch ascribes to it
the central hall of the Secession building accommodates Nitsch
contributing to what he aspired to from the beginning: the “sacralization of all art.”
“the practice of art corresponds to a ritual.” The “Temple of Art” created by Josef Maria Olbrich in 1898 is thus transformed into a stage for cultic pictorial action
It also becomes the fulfillment of a long-stored wish: in fact
there is a sketch by Nitsch dedicated to an action in the Wiener Secession dated 1964
The works of the twentieth pictorial action impressively reveal their genesis
which took place between “bursts of unrestrained fury and delicate gestures.” We are immersed in an actionist pictorial environment in which the fundamental constants of Nitsch’s work visually take shape
revealing those characters of the momentary and the eternal
Through a large-format work (5x20 mt) made with the pouring technique and placed on the front wall
we are confronted with a panorama that fills the space
No other work succeeds in so condensed a representation of the very essence of Nitsch’s painting
understood as an integral part of his synaesthetic “Theater of Orgies and Mysteries.” Nitsch said
smears and splashes of red-colored liquid can evoke intense excitement in the viewer
leading him to experience very strong sensations.”
the pictorial action aims to trigger in the audience an heightened experience of sensory reality by ideally leading them to a reflection on their own existence
malaktion in the historic space of the Oficine 800 on the island of Giudecca not only allows a recapitulation of his most important works
but also makes us retrace and relive Nitsch’s artistic ideas
in tension between the ecstatic and the contemplative
he is among the international pioneers of Performance Art
he is one of the few universal contemporary artists
TheOrgien Mysterien Theater (Theater of Orgies and Mysteries)
is the realization of his idea of a total work of art
In 1971 he bought Prinzendorf Castle in Lower Austria for his Orgien Mysterien Theater
where he produced his last six-day action in 1998 after decades of preparation
In 2007 a museum was dedicated to him in Mistelbach
where his work is presented in all its facets
a longtime friend of the artist and patron of his work
created the Hermann Nitsch Museum in Naples
Nitsch has been exhibited several times at documenta and during the Venice Biennale
He has made more than 150 actions worldwide
and retrospectives have been dedicated to him at the Van Abbe Museum in Eindhoven
the Martin Gropius Bau in Berlin and the Albertina in Vienna
Nitsch’s works can be found in the world’s most important collections and museums
Amsterdam; the Castello di Rivoli; the GAM
Rovereto; Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen
Cologne; Nationalgalerie Berlin; Lenbachhaus
Munich; Staatsgemäldesammlung Munich; Staatsgalerie Stuttgart; Kunsthalle Hamburg; Kunstmuseum Bern; Kunstmuseum Winterthur; Albertina
Vienna; Österreichische Galerie Belvedere
For all information you can visit the Zuecca Projects website.
Image: Hermann Nitsch, Schüttbild (action painting), 20th painting action, Secession Vienna (1987; oil on canvas, 200 x 300 cm). Photo by Liesl Biber. Courtesy of the Nitsch Foundation. ©Atelier Hermann Nitsch.
A massive cruise ship lost control as it docked in Venice on Sunday
crashing into the wharf and hitting a tourist boat after suffering an engine failure
Tourists on land could be seen running away as the 13-deck MSC Opera scraped along the dockside
amateur video footage posted on Twitter showed
Five people were slightly injured in the accident at San Basilio-Zattere in Venice’s Giudecca Canal
were on board the River Countess tourist boat
which suffered mechanical trouble before in 2011 during a Baltic cruise
can carry more than 2,500 passengers and boasts a theatre
#Msc #incidente a #Venezia un video https://t.co/sUncqlNRbh
— Monica Scapin🐄☀️⚽️⛵⚓📰 (@monicascapin77) June 2, 2019
#MSC un altro video #incidente a #Venezia https://t.co/DDYWlITnJz Ora qualcuno provi ancora a sostenere le grandi navi @58_andy
— Monica Scapin🐄☀️⚽️⛵⚓📰 (@monicascapin77) June 2, 2019
which was immediately reported by the captain,” Davide Calderan
head of a tugboat company involved in accompanying the ship into its berth
because the speed was increasing,” he said
The two tug boats that had been guiding the ship into the Giudecca tried to slow it
but one of the chains linking them to the giant snapped under the pressure
The accident reignited a heated row in the Serenissima over the damage caused to the city and its fragile ecosystem by cruise ships that sail exceptionally close to the shore
While gondoliers in striped T-shirts and woven straw hats row tourists around the narrow canals
the smoking chimneys of mammoth ships loom into sight behind the city’s picturesque bell towers and bridges
Critics say the waves the ships create are eroding the foundations of the lagoon city
leaving iconic sites such as Saint Mark’s Square underwater
“What happened in the port of Venice is confirmation of what we have been saying for some time,” Italy’s Environment Minister Sergio Costa wrote on Twitter
“Cruise ships must not sail down the Giudecca
We have been working on moving them for months now… and are nearing a solution,” he said
Paura a #Venezia. Grande nave sperona un'imbarcazione da turismo. All'origine dell'incidente una manovra sbagliata. Il filmato di quanto accaduto concesso dalla signora Daniela Bortolini #Ioseguotgr pic.twitter.com/U1BcllH2V8
— Tgr Rai Veneto (@TgrVeneto) June 2, 2019
Venice’s port authority said it was working to resolve the accident and free up the blocked canal in the north Italian city
“In addition to protecting the Unesco heritage city
and the safety of citizens and tourists,” Culture Minister Alberto Bonisoli said
noted Italy’s open-armed attitude to cruise ships contrasted sharply with its hostile approach to charity rescue vessels that help migrants who run into difficulty in the Mediterranean Sea
“It is truly curious that a country that tries to stop ships that have saved people at sea from entering its ports allows giant steel monsters to risk carnage in Venice,” he said
MSC Cruises, founded in Italy in 1960
is a global line registered in Switzerland and based in Geneva
suffered a power failure in 2011 in the Baltic
forcing some 2,000 people to be disembarked in Stockholm rather than continuing their Southampton to Saint Petersburg voyage
2019 8:53 PM [ET] | Originally published: June 2
2019 12:22 PM EDT;A colossal cruise ship crashed into a smaller tourist boat and a dock in Venice on Sunday
Footage of the collision shows an approximately 900-foot-long MSC Opera blaring its horns and failing to slow down as it approached the San Basilio Terminal on the Giudecca Canal
was docked and couldn’t move away from the terminal in time
Four female tourists, including one American, were injured while falling or trying to run away, according to the Associated Press.
The incident incited renewed calls to block off the cramped Giudecca canal from large vessels that drop off up to tens of thousands of visitors in the Italian city each day
attributed the collision to a “technical problem” in a statement
MSC said it was performing an investigation to “understand the exact dynamic of the facts,” the operator said, according to the New York Times
said the crash proved what experts have long been warning
“What happened in the port of Venice is the confirmation of what we have been saying for a long time: big ships must not pass by Giudecca,” he tweeted in Italian
and that the risks the large ships posed were not yet proven
In 2017, Italy banned the largest cruise ships from Venice’s Grand Canal, but also estimated it would take four years before the new port in a nearby town was complete, according to the BBC
Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro urged immediate action to open an alternative route
“It’s no longer thinkable that big ships can pass through the Giudecca Canal,” Brugnaro said
“Now we must urgently make sure that ships no longer pass in front of St
According to the cruise line, the MSC Opera is 65,591 tons
has 1,071 staterooms and fits 2,150 passengers and 728 crew members
Write to Abby Vesoulis at abby.vesoulis@time.com
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Rainbow houses on BuranoPhoto: Courtesy of Skye McAlpineRight now is a magical time of year to visit Venice: the muggy heat of summer has evaporated
but the days are still gloriously long and light
and the city’s horizon—floating in the water in that improbable way that it has—cuts a particularly striking silhouette
when it’s not too hot to sightsee and it’s just hot enough to sun yourself on the beach
And then there’s the film festival: for two weeks
the city is all abustle with film stars and parties
and the frisson of fabulousness they bring with them
a smattering of extra glamour falls upon the city
Here, tips on navigating Venice during the festival: how to avoid the crowds
by far the most dashing (and charming) drivers
which is set in a golden frescoed ballroom—the stuff of Venetian fairytales
where you sit on the water under the shade of parasols and can people-watch to your heart’s content
Less about the food and more about the atmosphere: think salads
with its wildflowers and wisteria laden pergolas
is like something out of Alice in Wonderland
or simply relax in the shade of the garden and have afternoon tea
Their Risotto con Go (buttery white fish risotto) is a must
which they make with fruit from the trees in the garden behind the restaurant
where Ernest Hemingway famously wrote Across the River and Into the Trees
Eat under the shade of the pergola and order the crepes suzette—it’s like taking a step back in time and straight into a Nancy Mitford novel
Take an after-lunch amble around the island (it's tiny
so it won’t take you long): visit the magnificent byzantine church
pop into the adorable antiques store (with its resident cat sleeping amongst piles of 18th-century crockery) and climb up to the top of the bell tower for truly unparalleled views across the lagoon
SEARCHJOIN CLUB
Turner's The Western End of the Giudecca Canal
from near the Convent of San Biagio e Cataldo
from the Grand Canal and Giudecca Sketchbook (1840) (© Tate) J.M.W
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“Turner’s views of Venice are among the most enduring responses to that spectacular but uniquely fragile city,” writes Ian Warrell
the author of a new publication called Venice With Turner
outlining depictions of the Italian city by J.M.W
but his progress through the lagoon city is expertly captured in Warrell’s extensive survey
The book includes the artist’s renderings of St Mark’s Basilica
the Giudecca canal and the Fondamente Nove area
along with other Venetian panoramas and landmarks
The works are “as colourful and vibrant as Canaletto’s scenes; as wistful as Guardi’s skilful impressions; as mysterious as Whistler’s nocturnes; and as resonant as Monet’s late souvenirs,” Warrell writes
Below are a selection of five images reflecting Turner’s Venetian odyssey
from the Steps of the Europa (exhibited 1842) © Tate
“Without even having to leave the steps of the Hotel Europa
Turner had one of the finest views of Venice
deep anchorage of the Bacino di San Marco [St Mark’s Basin],” Warell writes
The artist’s vista is framed on the right by the Dogana da Mar
and on the left by the majestic monastery church of San Giorgio Maggiore
The scale of the panorama across the Bacino overwhelmed Turner
“His sketchbooks frequently contain compositions that jump from page to page (and sometimes extend to further sheets) in order to encompass the great landmarks surrounding the ceremonial heart of the city,” Warrell says
Turner would have seen Canaletto’s paintings of the Grand Canal
which were widely reproduced as etchings by Antonio Visentini in the early 18th century
Warrell points out that Turner subsequently painted the Grand Canal from the same viewpoints as Canaletto though both perhaps simply made use of the ferry points on the canal
The gondola near the steps stands out in this watercolour
while the Santa Maria della Salute church appears as a mirage on the left
“Turner generally cropped or blurred its full baroque extravagance
opting to represent it as a pale and ghostly presence
defined by shade as much as by either sun or moonlight,” Warrell says
The Church of San Luca and the Back of the Palazzo Grimani from the Rio San Luca (around 1840) © Tate
Turner put his own spin on the off-the-beaten track areas of the city as well as the more populous routes
Turner uses the framing device of a bridge arch in this gouache dominated by the 16th-century Palazzo Grimani
which overlooks the Grand Canal and the smaller Rio San Luca canal off the city’s main waterway
“A sequence of studies on grey and blue paper explore this smaller canal [Rio San Luca]
which Turner first encountered 20 years earlier when staying nearby at the neighbouring Albergo Leon Bianco,” Warrell writes
The discreet splashes of red paint anchor the busy work that conveys the grandeur of Venice’s architectural heritage
from the Grand Canal and Giudecca Sketchbook (1840) © Tate
showing a vessel in the foreground bathed in a blue light
captures the vast scale of the Giudecca Canal
allowing Turner to be slightly more experimental
the western Giudecca was a place that resonated in his later work
Much of this has to do with the width and openness of the canal
which enabled him to produce expansive prospects of Venice
where the waterfronts on either side frame the natural drama of light—whether sunrise or sunset—infusing and transforming the space in between.” The wispy outline of Venetian landmarks around the perimeter
Looking across the Lagoon at Sunset (1840) © Tate
Phythian eloquently described the colour scheme of this watercolour
gold and orange in the sky made intensely luminous by the deep purple cloudlet dashed into the still wet wash of colour”
an appropriate coda for a collection of works that reveal and revel in the distinctive watery light of Venice
Warrell stresses that “the wide spaces of the lagoon were stimulating for Turner
liberating him from the constrictions of more contained outlooks within the city
Here sea and sky become as one and seem to extend without limits in a way that is timeless.”
• For more of the best books on Turner, see An expert’s guide to J.M.W. Turner: four must-read books on the British painter
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