We’re sorry to disappoint, but the secret’s finally out. For years, the beautiful little volcanic island of Ischia managed to evade the spotlight thanks to its close, glitzy neighbour Capri. With anti-trend hotspots firmly on the travel agenda
What sets this isolated rock apart from the competition
It’s a question of substance and that ghastly overused word
“authenticity.” Capri will always be the pretty one – the view from the Via Krupp and the Faraglioni as seen from La Fontalina are starlet gold – and the island of Procida took recent fame as Europe’s 2022 culture capital
Ischia wins hands down when it comes to a rugged
For more inspiration and where to stay in Italy
Say ciao to the hotel that put Ischia on the map. From the moment it re-opened under the uber-tasteful eye of Marie-Louise Sciò, it became a magnet to the Italian glitterati. Like its sister hotels Il Pellicano in coastal Tuscany and La Posta Vecchia in Ladispoli
The Mezzatorre is a throwback to la dolce vita at its finest
Like Ischia there are few in Italy,” Schio tells us
the hotel has everything you’d expect from an Italian escape: glittering waters
The celebrities – from J Lo to Angela and Margherita Missoni and influencer Sophia Roe – are all major fans
the 16th-century Moorish-style former watchtower enjoys a quirky Wes Anderson-esque mise-en-scene with stunning panoramas of the Bay of Naples and the most sought-after suites the island has to offer
guarantees the finest slice of Campania cuisine
Address: Mezzatorre Hotel, via Mezzatorre, 23/d, 80075 Forio NA, Italy
The concept of staying in a hotel inside a castle is pretty cool
Ridiculously atmospheric and impeccably stylish
boutique chic gets a medieval schooling courtesy of Albergo il Monastero
vaulted ceilings and storied walls give the monastic digs that extra tinge of wow factor
Former owner Gabriele Mattera’s modern art pieces sprawl the walls and slick contemporary décor numbers help bring things into the 21st century
Rooms – once the cells of monks – are small and modest
but they are refreshingly simple nonetheless
Its biggest asset comes courtesy of its restaurant
the dazzlingly romantic Cucina del Monastero
The views are heartstring-tugging and the food is light and tasty
fresh bread baked straight from the oven and whatever the hot dish of the day is
you basically have full reign and access to the castle once all the day tourists are kicked out
Address: Albergo il Monastero, Ponte Aragonese, 80077 Ischia NA, Italy
summits and hairpins – so to find a five-star resort on the waterfront is surprisingly rare
sunbathing platforms and pontoons offer such easy access to clear
as are the four swimming pools and legendary thermal spa
Marinated in the essence and spirit of its 1950s heyday
the hotel captures the golden era of Mediterranean sophistication and dolce vita glamour
The style and atmosphere continue in 128 bedrooms spread across three different units and buildings
bedsteads and the cherrywood marquetry of built-in cupboards
with modernist iron-railed Juliet balconies – such as the one in room 370
from which Elizabeth Taylor famously hurled Richard Burton’s clothes following an epic row
The hub and raison d’être of the resort is the spa with indoor thermal pools and extensive facilities
where you can go for a quick-fix facial or a non-surgical filler
or have a personalised programme and complete wellness overhaul
means you can also experience life in a vivid
Here is a hotel that can be all things to all people: a destination spa and starred restaurant
a restorative retreat with natural thermal hot springs
You might recognise this one from the blockbuster flick Cleopatra
While it remains a firm tourist hotspot thanks to its starring Hollywood role
this fortress was first built all the way back in 474BC by Syracusan tyrant Gerone I
Much of what you see today survives from the 1400s
raised from the ground by King Alfonso of Aragon who had a thing for bastions
Beyond its fortress lies an entire borgo filled with cutesy terrace cafes (the highest with views of Capri) and bars and the odd shop
there’s the rather ghastly and grisly Museo delle Torture home to a collection of medieval torture instruments and the Cattedrale dell’Assunta where Giotto-inspired frescoes run riot in the 11th-century crypt
You are on an island
Several charters offer all sorts of experiences around the coast that pack in all the sights
give Joseph and Marco of Giosymar Ischia Charter a call
they’ll whizz you around all the hotspots pointing out landmarks
Because plants = wellness
A downright odyssey of greenery festoons every single nook
crevice and bolt imaginable in this stonker of a beautiful giardino
once the former home of British composer William Walton and his Argentine wife
grandiose Moorish gardens of southern Spain’s Alhambra Palace
the finest botanical spectacle in all of Italy thanks to its designer
you can easily spend an entire afternoon traipsing about the place
Tropical spruces and perennials make up much of the lower gardens
while Mediterranean plants and ponds wow in the uppers
Walton's wife is commemorated in a small museum on the way up
and it’s well worth joining the line for a peek of his mightily impressive monument perched at the tippy-top of the garden (his ashes are here
and the views of Forio and the coast are as expected
La Mortella often hosts chamber-music recitals and concerts
The quickest way to climb it is from the village of Fontana
The path is roughly 2.5km in length and weaves up paved roads
Local guide Marianna Polverino of Ischia Hiking Tours is one of the island’s best and will show you everything from vineyards to cool volcanic vents and all the pretty towns en route
Until it became last year’s European culture capital
Procida remained a well-kept secret for locals and film stars (Gina Lollobrigida
Pilgrimages generally start with a walk up to the ancient citadel
Here you’ll get one of the best views of the Marina di Corricella (sea of colourful houses included) and have the chance to explore the pretty medieval village of Terra Murata
Palazzo d'Avalos and the crumbling 16th-century Abbey of San Michele are well worth a visit
the town square is alive with traditional markets
cutesy Fiat cinquecentos and buzzing festivals
Insta-walks along the waterfront are a must to see bobbing fishing boats
colour-mad picture-perfect sunsets over the bay
The laidback seafood restaurant is hugely popular with locals who flock here to gorge on stuffed calamari and spaghetti alle vongole
Ischia isn’t really known the world over as a go-to wine destination
There are hundreds of vineyards dotted all about the island that grow top-notch indigenous grapes – Biancolella and Forastera white grapes and Guarnaccia and Per'e' Palummo (Piedirosso) red grapes especially – and thanks to all that volcanic soil
the bottles corked here are some of the tastiest Campania has to offer
a five-generation family business that’s been producing wine for over 250 years; Cenatiempo
another family affair where Biancolella vines string out some deliciously crisp glasses of Kalimera (a lovely white); and Casa D’Ambra
a vineyard nestled inside a natural amphitheatre overlooking the bay of Citara
The hotel up in the sky has “date night” written all over it
Sister to buzzy Amalfi outcrop Borgo Santandrea
the laidback terrace dishes out all the wow factor with stunning bay views that look out to all the island’s neighbours and beyond
but there are plenty of love seats to caress
The pizza is excellent and melts in your mouth
Address: Acropoli Bar, Via Nuova Montevico, 26, 80076 Lacco Ameno NA, Italy
You’ll need to book early for this one because it’s the place to go for starry-eyed loved-up couples to go and be seen in
Chef Pasquale Palamaro serves up Michelin-approved dishes to gourmet palettes year-round
and there’s a particular passion for plating up classics with an Ischia-like spin where local ingredients trump Campanian go-tos
Address: Ristorante Indaco, Piazza Santa Restituta, 1, 80076 Lacco Ameno NA, Italy
Here’s the spot to go if you’re in need of a serious digital detox
Set deep within the island’s craggy coast via a rather perilous but fun natural staircase
La Scanella is where introverted extroverts head to chill
book in one hand and a spritz in the other
There’s no phone signal down here whatsoever
and the club enforces a pretty strict silent bathing area where only the crashing waves break the sound waves
and treat your taste buds to lunch with a sea view
Fresh fish – it really is the definition of the word – salads and pasta in the pan are served here
all to the tune of a foodie mantra that preaches simple is best
Address: La Scanella, Via Scannella Mare, 1, 80075 Panza, frazione di Forio d’Ischia NA, Italy
It’s all very arty and intimate at this cute little spot in Fori
Request to sit terrace-side for breezy seascapes
kaleidoscopic salads and a wine list that exceeds 500 bottles
If you can stand up straight after all the booze
waltz through the hotel and check out all the fine work from local artists
Address: Umberto A Mare, d'Ischia, Via del Soccorso, 8, 80075 Forio NA, Italy
Owner Franco di Scala is the third-generation restauranteur behind this historic spot that has brought in punters for decades
the food is simple and minimal…intentionally
to let all of the timeless Italian flavours shine
plus creamy risottos and some seriously good portions of perfectly cooked al dente pasta
Address: La Vigna Di Alberto, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 87, 80070 Barano D'ischia NA, Italy
Pure drama does not get much better than this spot set high above the heavens on Mount Epomeo
the whole thing is carved into a tufa on the peak of the mountain and is roughly a three or so hour hike from Sant’ Angelo
Food is as local and fresh as it gets with all the usual suspects from fish to pasta and salads
as are the panoramas that stretch all the way out to Maronti beach
Address: Ristorante La Grotta Epomeo, Via Epomeo, 21, 80070 Serrara Fontana NA, Italy
If you’re done with all the fancy stuff and just want something down-to-earth and casual
it's a buzzy affair plonked just off the port of Forio
we came here for the pizza and homemade cookies
Address: La Bella Napoli, Unit 22, Bow Triangle Business Center, Eleanor St, London E3 4UR
Gillian McGuire
Every seafood spot in Ischia Porto claims they serve the freshest fish on the island
And while we can’t say for certain who hold that title (though are certainly up to the challenge of trying them all)
Reserve a table for lunch or dinner and expect a menu full of carpaccio
And if the dozens of wine bottles lining the walls feels overwhelming
be sure to punctuate your meal with the dessert of the day and a glass of grappa
SeafoodPizza
Ischia Porto
Ristorante da Emiddio is a family-run restaurant in Ischia Porto with port views and lots of seafood
Italian
Serrara Fontana
Casamicciola
Bar Gino is a casual beach bar in Casamicciola Terme that’s perpettually busy
and great for a grilled prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich
ShareSaveLifestyleTravelWill Ischia Be Italy's Next Hot Destination? 16 Reasons to Visit NowByCatherine Sabino
Photo by Antonio Capone/AGF/UIG via Getty Images
Ischia may be one of Italy’s best-kept secrets (as far as international travelers are concerned)
an 18-square mile volcanic island hiding in plain view—yes
that’s the hazy outcropping you see in the distance as you sail to its sparkly neighbor Capri in the Gulf of Naples
a boutique travel company specializing in custom itineraries
(Another reason to have a look--a new HBO series based on a novel by the enormously popular author Elena Ferrante was partially filmed on the island and is likely to up its profile when the show debuts this fall.) Here Petrino shares his insights about Ischia (and we’ve added a few of our own) so you can enjoy it to the fullest
but Ischia is where the Italians go,” says Petrino
Photo by: Giuseppe Greco/REDA&CO/UIG via Getty Images
The beaches here are less rocky than in many spots along the Amalfi Coast and on Capri
“You have more options for sandy seasides,” says Petrino
lengthy Spiaggia dei Maronti in Barano d’Ischia
A cliff near the thermal springs of Sorgeto Bay
Ischia is a place where you can relax while indulging in wellness regimens
“People have been coming here since the time of the Romans for health treatments,” says Petrino
“The first thing I do when I get to the island is head to the Giardini Poseidon
where you can relax in one of 20 pools with different temperatures [thermal baths range from 28° C to 40° C]
and enjoy a steam room [a sudatorium] located in a cave
Plus there’s a sandy beach and restaurant serving healthy
fresh food.” Petrino also recommends the Negombo Thermal Gardens
which has a dozen pools and baths with various water temperatures
You’ll find affordable lodging even in high season
which run the gamut from from 3-to-5-stars
than on the Amalfi coast or in Capri,” says Petrino
“Many are great deals with half board (mezza pensione) included in the room price.” In addition to the savings
a half-board option means that since you're dining at your hotel
you don’t have to worry about driving those narrow coastal roads after dinner
“In Ischia you have an Italian clientele year-round
so restaurants know that the prices you find in resorts catering to tourists won’t be accepted here,” says Petrino
but Ischia has hardly lacked for boldface names
Celebrities have been coming to the island for decades
Ripley with Jude Law and Gwyneth Paltrow were shot on the island
head to Ischia in July when the Film Festival is in full swing
German Chancellor Angela Merkel takes a walk by the sea with her husband
Chancellor Angela Merkel is an Ischia devotee
German travelers are attracted to the the island
many Ischians speak German and signage often includes the language as well.)
On the set of the HBO series based on the Elena Ferrante novel
Photo by Salvatore Laporta/KONTROLAB /LightRocket via Getty Images
From Stendhal in the 1800s to Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams during the last century
Ischia has been a magnet for big-name writers
My Brilliant Friend and The Story of a New Name
were set on the island (and HBO has filmed here for the upcoming series based on My Brilliant Friend.)
“You can expect fresh fish caught that day and I recommend ordering spaghetti alle vongole along the coast,” says Petrino
But there’s also a hearty mountain cuisine
“In high-altitude areas in the hinterlands [the villages of the hilly Serrara Fontana comune are around 2600 feet above sea level]
you’ll find a cuisine different from what you have along the sea
with pheasant and rabbit stews among the offerings,” says Petrino
many restaurants in these areas provide outstanding views of the Gulf and coastline
you have a good selection of local wines,” says Petrino
which is made primarily from Forastera and Biancolella grapes
the latter believed to come from vines introduced by ancient Greeks
this smooth liqueur is a taste of summer that can be enjoyed year long
Ischians not only pride themselves on their recipes for making limoncello
You can also sample such varieties as crema di limoncello
made with milk and cream; and even a type created from oranges
There are bustling seaside towns and amazing fishing villages
“Since the island is larger than Capri you have a number of places to choose from like Ischia Porto
Forio d’Ischia and Sant’Angelo,” says Petrino
Porto is the island’s capital from which most of the ferries and hydrofoils arrive and depart
In Ponte you’ll find the medieval fortress
the island’s most famous landmark (also the site of the Ischia Film Festival)
Forio is home to beautiful whitewashed and pastel villas and the Giardini La Mortella
a lavish Mediterranean garden with thousands of rare plants
The fishing village Sant’Angelo has lovely beaches
among them the Cava Grado with a cove-like setting and aqua waters
the nighttime scene is fun with lots of restaurants
boutiques and shops that are open before and after dinner,” says Petrino
In Porto you’ll also find the greatest concentration of disco bars and nightclubs
where you can check out many artisan shops
“Here you can have custom sandals handmade in half an hour for about €100.” Ischia is also good for buying ceramics
You’ll find many handmade and hand-painted pieces
known for their intricate patterns and bold use of color
And luxuriate in the local beauty products
“The island has a number of small beauty producers that turn out wonderful items and fragrances,” says Petrino
These products include natural skin care and cosmetic lines; thermal mud-based masks and soaps; and perfumes and eaux de toilettes
often with citrusy scents that reflect the island’s natural fragrances
from family-friendly Sorriso Thermae to the dolce vita time capsule Albergo della Regina Isabella
Many may have first heard of Ischia through Elena Ferrante's Neapolitan novels
but Italians have long adored this verdant volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples for its spectacular sea views and the healing powers of its thermal springs
Ischia's mineral-charged thermal waters – terme – were discovered 3,000 years ago by the Ancient Greeks
The bubbling fonts quickly became famous for their restorative properties
rheumatism and all manners of skin conditions
thanks in no small part to Ischia's year-round mild climate and lush hiking trails
Today, there are dozens of thermal spring experiences throughout Ischia – ranging from ultra-glam resorts to rugged natural bays. To uncover some of the best, we spoke to Italian spa industry insider Raffaella Dallarda
a holistic expert and spa guidebook writer who has visited every thermal spa in the country
"In Italy we have more than 400 certified natural springs
but the kingdom of the natural springs in Italy is Ischia."
That's because Ischia's waters receive an extra charge from the volcanic craters in the seas surrounding the island
"[It's] called L'Isola Verde; the Green Island," said Dallarda
[And] the volcanic waters are hotter than waters in other places [in Italy]
They have more positive properties on joints
Ischia is the perfect escape for anyone who desires a laidback
"A spa has a character," said Dallarda
Here are Raffaella Dallarda's picks for the most relaxing and spectacular spas on Ischia
Best of the best: San Montano Resort & Spa
Of all the thermal spa experiences on Ischia, Dallarda cites the San Montano Resort & Spa as her all-time top pick
"There's this incredible 360-degree view of the bay
It feels like you're floating in the sea
just surrounded by all these gorgeous thermal and sea water pools… and in the hotel everywhere there are those locally made ceramic floor tiles."
The stately mountaintop five-star resort boasts various levels of luxury villas and suites plus the splendid Lemontano citrus grove
"Inside the grove they have these sunbeds
set up like it's an outdoor spa," explained Dallarda
"And they give you massages right there in the grove with all the lemons dangling above your head
It's absolutely insane." The San Montano Resort also has a traditional spa
as well as indulgent face and body treatments
all with jaw-dropping panoramic views of the sea and Mt Vesuvius
It's like being on a cruise ship," said Dallarda
"San Montano is the absolute best."
Website: https://www.sanmontano.com/
Instagram: @sanmontanoresort
Best for living out your dolce vita dreams: Albergo Della Regina Isabella
the families that participated in film festivals used Ischia as their summer house
"All the celebs from Los Angeles like Bridgit Bardot… they were all guests in the gorgeous Rizzoli villa
It's retained that vintage 1960s style
Located in a quiet bay in the hamlet of Lacco Ameno
Albergo Della Regina Isabella stuns with its original brightly patterned tile floors
ornate furnishings and mesmerising sea views
"They have this private pier where everyone comes in with their yachts," said Dallarda
The hotel's thermal springs are classified as "hyper-mineral waters"
flowing at a temperature between 56C and 77C
Dallarda notes that the hotel's spa is a bit of an anomaly – a high-grade clinical structure plopped amid vintage glamour
"Even the uniforms of the therapists… it's very clinical."
utilising Ischia's natural volcanic mud which
absorbs new microelements helpful for treating inflammation and improving blood circulation
and get ready for an Aperol Spritz at sunset
Website: https://www.reginaisabella.com/it/
Instagram: @regina.isabella
Best for a romantic getaway: Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa
Dallarda's pick for couples is the Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa in the village of Forio
I was there for a wedding once – they lit up the tower with fireworks to make it look like an attack on the castle
The five-star hotel and thermal spa is housed in a red 16th-Century Aragonese watchtower
perched high up on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea
Mezzatorre was also an 18th-Century ducal palace
the hub of a cultural circle that included renowned poets and film directors
"They do these open-air massages under the gazebos as you watch the yachts pass by
It's a 'wow' place," said Dallarda
And take note that it's on a promontory – gorgeous view… it's very romantic for couples."
Website: https://www.mezzatorre.com/en/
Instagram: @mezzatorrehotel
Best sustainable experience: Botania Relais & Spa
Botania Relais & Spa offers a 100% organic
sustainably produced menu prepared with homegrown ingredients
"If I had to give an award for the breakfast
The sprawling grounds are situated in a botanic garden; a series of whitewashed deluxe cottages with modern ceramic tile flooring and tasteful colourful interior décor
Guests are free to explore the beautifully manicured English-inspired gardens before visiting the Garden Spa
where they'll find hot and cold plunge pools and a steam shower housed in a beautiful natural grotto
They can then retire to the treatment rooms to indulge in expert massages and bespoke skin and body treatments
but high-standing and so unique," said Dallarda
Website: https://www.botaniarelais.com/
Instagram: @botaniarelais
Best for vintage Neapolitan glamour: Excelsior Belvedere Hotel & Spa
"It's frequented by high-class Neapolitans… the noble families," she said of the 19th-Century aristocratic sea-view villa
Just a short distance from the lively Corso Vittoria Colonna shopping street and awe-inspiring Aragonese Castle
the Excelsior Belvedere enjoys sweeping views of the Gulf of Naples and its seemingly endless sky
The lobby and rooms are a time capsule of 1960s Italian island luxury – rich brocade drapery and colourful tiled floors – while the spa is a stunning seashell-shaped haven with marble statues and wall-to-wall mosaics
Guests can choose to bathe in the mineral-packed thermal waters
get slathered in therapeutic muds or choose from a long menu of beautifying
Website: https://www.excelsiorischia.it/en/
Instagram: @excelsiorischia
Best medical spa: Hotel Continental Ischia
"[It] has a very interesting medical spa," said Dallarda
"And is a favourite among Italian families who demand very Italian-centred services."
Hotel Continental Ischia's staff uses the reserve of thermal waters and mud found 39m beneath the property to treat ailments ranging from musculoskeletal diseases and post-accident traumas to respiratory concerns and vascular disorders
To benefit from an Italian medical spa's treatments
visitors must undergo a medical pre-examination and commit to a treatment course
Website: https://www.hotelcontinentalischia.it/en/
Instagram: @continentalischia
Best for quality water treatments: Giardini Poseidon Terme
it's easy to see why Giardini Poseidon Terme is so popular: its structure not only manages to blend country-club vibes with white-washed Italian island architecture
it's also adjacent to a breathtaking strip of beach with craggy cliffs and sea views
But Dallarda likes Giardini Poseidon Terme for a far more practical reason: the quality of its waters
"[The health director] is very fanatic about research," she said
"They are the best place [on Ischia] for balneotherapy… They have 20 pools and every night they clean the waters immaculately
ultra-natural water therapy without any skin irritation
the only place is [Giardini Poseidon Terme]."
Giardini Poseidon Terme's spa offers a full menu of wellness
high-tech face and body aesthetic treatments as well as mud and thermal water-charged medical services
"The service is great," said Dallarda
"If you're looking strictly for glamour
Website: https://www.giardiniposeidonterme.com/en
Instagram: @giardiniposeidon.terme
Best for families: Sorriso Thermae Resort & Spa
"It's a little hard to get to – you have to cross the island to get there," said Dallarda
"But it's really family-oriented… [you see] grandparents with their grandchildren
people who don't want to spend too much."
Sorriso Thermae Resort & Spa – sorriso means smile in Italian – has been making families happy since the 1960s
with its vintage Mediterranean-style tile-and-mosaic ornamented decor
grand ocean-front restaurant and beach-adjacent swimming pool
"There's a really large spa," said Dallarda
"[It's] popular for its medical treatments
Even for its rejuvenating treatments; they've got the mud
And they're open all year round… For its quality-to-price ratio
it's a good family destination."
Website: https://www.sorrisoresort.it/en
Instagram: @sorriso.resort.ischia
Best for those on a budget: Hotel Terme Tritone Resort & Spa
"[It's] a four-star [hotel] in Forio with a great spa with great service," said Dallarda
"[It's] basically private residences with a British cottage feel and the English-inspired gardens are extremely well tended."
"Not everyone can afford the Mezzatorre
The Tritone is a good compromise where the spa is lovely and does a great job," said Dallarda
Website: https://www.hoteltritoneischia.it/en/
Instagram: @hoteltritoneischia
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The 21st edition of the Ischia Global Film & Music Festival (July 9-16)
and singer Sofia Carson with the “Ischia William Walton Legend Award”
and the “Ischia Global Music Award” respectively
11:00h – International Music Symposium – Film
Music and Artificial Intelligence: What is the Deal
Cristiano De Andrè and US publicist Ray Costa
16:00h – Forum “The Women’s Word”
Directorate General for Cultural Policies and Tourism Regione Campania
Sonia Nassery Cole (Afghanistan) and Lena Roklin (USA)
21:30h – “TELL IT LIKE A WOMAN” ILBE and WDIT production
The film will be introduced by composer Diane Warren (Academy Award 2023) and singer Sofia Carson
22:30h – Honoring the Ischia Award Winners – (by invitation only) Awards Ceremony
PARCO NENZI BOZZI – ISCHIA PORTO – (by invitation only)
Diane Warren – “Ischia William Walton Legend Award”
Sofia Carson – “Ischia Global Music Award”
Mona Fastvold – “Ischia Art Award”
Paola Turci – “Ischia Italian Music Award”
Simon Franglen – “Ischia Film & Music Award”
Jean-Michel Byron – “Ischia Global Music Award”
https://www.ischiaglobal.com/2023/06/29/director-catherine-hardwicke-and-singer-sofia-carson-to-receive-career-women-ischia-award/
Complete program (automatic translation Italian-English):
https://www.ischiaglobal.com/programma-eventi/
19:00 Greeting: Giacomo Pascale – Mayor of Lacco Ameno
IGF Honorary President and producer Pascal Vicedomini Forum Opening – Cinema
Chaired by director Mike Figgis and multimedia artist Rosey Chan (UK) with special guest appearance by Professor Giulio Maira
Speakers: Paolo Del Brocco (Rai Cinema CEO)
Maria Pia Ammirati (Rai Fiction Director) and many others
“EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE” by Daniel Kwan and Daniel Scheinert (140′) – Academy Award 2023 (Best Picture)
19:15 “ELEMENTAL” by Peter Sohn (94′) – Ischia Kids Global Icons Section
21:00 Welcome to Ischia Global with IGF 2023 Chairman Jim Sheridan
of the Accademia Internazionale Arte Ischia Aldo Arcangioli and Festival Godmother Soleil Sorge
To follow: “DOUBLE SOUL” by Valerio Esposito (94) World Premiere Attended by director and producers Roberto Cipullo and Mario Pezzi
18:30 “THE EIGHT MOUNTAINS” by Felix Van Groeningen and Charlotte Vandermeersch (140′) – David di Donatello Award 2023 (Best Film)
“WHITNEY” by Kasi Lemmons (146′)
CINEMA IN THE PIAZZA PIAZZA MARINA – CASAMICCIOLA
21:30 Welcome by Mayor Giosi Ferrandino and IGF 2023 godmother Soleil Sorge “DANTE” by Pupi Avati
The film will be introduced by the director
SANTA RESTITUTA SQUARE – LACCO AMENO
22:00 Welcome by Mayor Giacomo Pascale and the godmother of IGF 2023 Soleil Sorge “DANTE” by Pupi Avati
23:30 Paradise On The Beach Show: Music with the B Band and the Incanto Quartets 24:00 “Honoring the Ischia Award Winners” – Awards Ceremony
Pupi Avati – “Ischia Legend Award – “In the name of by Truman Capote”
Giulio Maira – “Ischia Humanitarian Award”
Michael Radford (UK) – “Ischia People Award”
Fausto Russo Alesi – “Ischia Italian Actor of the Year Award” Pierpaolo Sileri – “Friend of Ischia Award”
Adriano Aragozzini – “Ischia Lifetime Achievement Award”
Welcome Dinner for Guests (by invitation only)
16:00 Forum – Cinema and Youth: Ideas and strategies for engaging the younger generation
Speakers: agents Gianni Chiffi and Consuelo de Andreis
Giulia Ando’ and casting director Armando Pizzuti and many other artists
17:00 Photographic Exhibition – “WOMEN ALL’ITALIANA.”
Opening with photographers Vicoolya & Saida (Ukr)
18:30 PHOTO EXHIBITION – “ONLY ONE” curated by MAREVIVO
Inauguration with MV president Rosalba Giugni
18:30 “VASCO – LIVE ROMA CIRCO MASSIMO” by Pepsy Romanoff (130′)
I SING LOUDER” by Emma Westenberg (96′) Italian Premiere
The film will be presented by the director
actress Clara McGregor and producer Greg Lauritano
7 pm “SPIDER-MAN ACROSS THE SPIDER – Verse” by Joaquim Dos Santos
21:30 “AMLETO IS MY BROTHER” by Francesco Giuffrè (88) World Premiere
The film will be presented by the director and actor Paolo Vaselli
CINEMA IN PIAZZA MARINA – CASAMICCIOLA
21:30 “AL CAPOLINEA” by Michele Schiano (12′)
“O PANARO” by Giuseppe Iacono (73′)
PIAZZA SANTA RESTITUTA – LACCO AMENO
22:00 “THE GREAT DAY” by Massimo Venier (90′) – Audience Award at the David di Donatello 2023
ALBERGO LA MADONNINA – CASAMICCIOLA TERME (by invitation only)
22:30 Honoring the Ischia Award Winners – Awards Ceremony
Gianni Chiffi and Consuelo De Andreis – “Ischia International Manager of the Year Award” Vicoolya & Saida – “Ischia Art Award “(Photography)
Giulia Ando’ – “Ischia Italian Breakout Actress of the Year Award”
Vincenzo Crea – “Ischia Italian Breakout Actor of the Year Award ”
Selene Caramazza – “Ischia Working Actress of the Year Award”
Nikita Pelizon – “Ischia Digital Creator Award”
Francesco Giuffré – “Ischia Social Award ”
19:00 “ME AGAINST YOU” by Gianluca Leuzi (90′)
21:00 “EMILY” by Frances O’Connor (126′)
The film will be introduced by director and producer Piers Tempest
18:30 “SHAZAM FURY OF THE GODS” by David F
21:00 “THE LINE” by Ethan Berger (100′) – Special Screening
The film will be presented by actors Alex Wolff
“MARGINS” by Niccolò Falsetti (91′)
21:30 PIAZZA SANTA RESTITUTA – LACCO AMENO
“LAGGIU’ QUALCUNO MI AMA” by Mario Martone (128′)
Introduced by the director of “Il Postino” Michael Radford (U.K.)
GABBIANO BEACH – FORIO (by invitation only) 10:30 p.m
Don Davide Milani (Entertainment Authority ) – “Ischia People Award”
Claudio Cecchetto – “Ischia People Award”
Luca Riemma – “Ischia Italian Breakout Actor of the Year Award”
11:00 International Music Symposium – Film
16:00 Forum “The Women’s Word”
18:30 “FAST X” by Louis Leterrier (141′)
21:00 “MIRANDA’S VICTIM” by Michelle Danner (126) Italian Premiere The film will be presented by the director
“BLACK PANTHER: WAKANDA FOREVER” by Ryan Coogler (161′)
21:15 “ON POINT” by Christian Schifano (5′) – European Premiere
producers Francis Chapman and Ivy Freeman-Attwood
To follow: “INLAND” by Fridtjof Ryder (88′) – Italian Premiere
actress Nell Williams and producer Kyle Stroud
21:30 SOLDIER UNDER THE MOON by Massimo Paolucci (100′)
21:30 “TELL IT LIKE A WOMAN” ILBE and WDIT production
The film will be introduced by composer Diane Warren (Oscar winner 2023) and singer Sofia Carson
NENZI BOZZI PARK – ISCHIA PORTO – (by invitation only)
22.30 Honoring the Ischia Award Winners – (by invitation only) Awards Ceremony
12:00 Forum – Independent Cinema: Young Ideas for the Future of the Big Screen Chaired by Bernard Hiller (USA)
16:00 Face to face with Edwige Fenech and Marisa Laurito
19:00 “MIXED BY ERRY” by Sidney Sibilia (110′)
21:00 “THE DUEL” by Justin Matthews and Luke Spencer Roberts (95′) European Premiere The film will be introduced by actress Rachel Matthews and producers Lena Roklin and John Matthews
23:00 “ROVING WOMAN” by Michal Chmielewski (95′) Italian Premiere The film will be introduced by the director
19:00 “THE FLASH” by Andy Muschietti (144′)
21:30 “THE ENFORCER” by Richard Hughes (90′) – Italian Premiere
The film will be introduced by producers Avi Lerner and Heidi Jo Markel
“TIC TOC” by Davide Scovazzo (90′)
The film will be introduced by actors Eva Henger and Doctor Vintage
Honoring the Ischia Award Winners (by invitation only) – Awards Ceremony
Raffaella De Laurentiis – “Ischia Global Producer of the Year Award”
Marisa Laurito – “Ischia Art Award”
Brady Corbet – “Ischia Working Actor of the Year Award”
Anastasia Kuzmina – “Ischia Art Award” (dance)
Soleil Sorge – “Ischia Digital Creator Award
Andrea Sannino – “Ischia Music Award”
Franco Ricciardi – “Ischia Music Award”
Ciccio Merolla – “Ischia Music Award”
11:00 Forum – Hollywood strikes: what about Europe
Rights and duties of authors and publishers
HAPPY CAMPLEANNO CLAUDIO” by Duccio Forzano (130′)
21:00 “MOM HERE I COMMAND” by Federico Moccia (90′) World Premiere The film will be presented by the director
actor Alessio Di Domenicantonio and producer Francesco De Blasi
EXCELSIOR CINEMA – ISCHIA PORTO 19:15 “THE MENU'” by Mark Mylod (107′)
21:00 “BANK OF DAVE” by Chris Foggin (105′) Italian Premiere The film will be presented by director and producer Piers Tempest
21:30 “THE SPRING OF MY LIFE” by Zavvo Niccolosi (95′)
21:30 “O’ PANARO” by Giuseppe iacono (75′)
TORRE MICHELANGELO – CARTA ROMANA (By invitation only)
22:30 Honoring the Ischia Award Winners – Awards
Tim Blake Nelson “Ischia Art Award – Working Actor”
Lena Roklin – “Ischia International Manager of the Year Award”
Roberto Sessa – “Ischia Italian TV Producer of the Year Award”
Piers Tempest – “Ischia European Producer of the Year Award”
Angela Pagano – “Ischia Lifetime Achievement Award”
Anna Ammirati – “Ischia Italian Actress of the Year Award – Working actress”
Federico Moccia – “Ischia Comedy Director Award”
Anna Maria Sambucco – “Ischia Casting Director of the Year Award”
11:00 Forum – Cinema and Platforms: a bubble or the future
Speakers: Nicola Claudio (Rai Cinema President)
12.00 Face to face with Rob Marshall (USA)
“THE FOURTH SUNDAY OF ORDINARY TIME” by Pupi Avati (98′)
The film will be introduced by actors Edwige Fenech and Gabriele Lavia
21:00 “MAFIA MAMMA” by Catherine Hardwicke (101′) Italian Premiere The film will be introduced by the director
23:00 “THE WHALE” by Darren Aronofsky (117′) Oscar-winning film 2023 (Best Actor)
19:00 “ROMANTICHE” by Pilar Fogliati (108′)
21:00 “LA SIRENETTA” by Rob Marshall (120′)
21:30 “‘ASTERIX & OBELIX IN THE MIDDLE KINGDOM'” by Guillaume Canet (111′)
REBEL CONFORMIST” by Selma Dell’Olio (120′)
ALBERGO DELLA REGINA ISABELLA – LACCO AMENO – (by invitation only)
22.30 Honoring the Ischia Award Winners – Awards Ceremony
Robert Marshall – “Ischia Legend Award – In the name of Luchino Visconti”
Brendan Fraser – “Ischia Global Actor Award”
Catherine Hardwicke – “Ischia Global Director of the Year Award” Edwige Fenech – “Ischia Lifetime Achievement Award”
Gabriele Lavia – “Ischia Lifetime Achievement Award”
Andrea Scarduzio – “Ischia Global Breakout Actor of the Year Award”
Jamal Taslaq – “Ischia Art Award (Fashion)”
19:15 “LAST NIGHT OF LOVE” by Andrea DI Stefano (120′) The work in competition at Berlin 2023
17:30 “AVATAR THE WAY TO THE WATER” by James Cameron (192)’
21:00 “THREE MEN AND A PHANTOM” by I Ditelo Voi (90′)
The film will be presented by the filmmakers
21:30 “CHIARA” by Susanna Nicchiarelli (106′)
21:30 “VICINI DI CASA” by Paolo Costella (83′)
https://www.ischiaglobal.com/
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the island of Ischia charms with bargain-priced five-star inns
More than 65 million people travel to Italy each year — the fifth most-visited country in international tourism
according to the World Tourism Organisation
lesser-known locale in a sea of vacationers
try the country’s southwest island of Ischia
Ischia is one of three inhabited land masses, along with Capri and Procida, in the Gulf of Naples. Its high-profile neighbour, Capri, draws more attention, positioning Ischia as a bargain destination with a lot of local charm
wineries and 10 five-star hotels — some as low as €300 (NZ$540) a night in season
READ MORE: A full day travelling Rome for less than $55
Grand Hotel Il Moresco is a 20-minute walk from the Ischia Porto ferry terminal
past colourful boutique shops and footpath cafes
Walk through the gate of the lava-stone wall and you enter a lush garden setting with thermal pools and a Mediterranean villa with luxuriously appointed rooms
Other five-star hotels were once aristocrat mansions
like the Excelsior Belvedere Hotel and Spa
Ischia’s mineral-rich springs are known for their healing properties, and draw wellness travellers to public and private spas across the island
A favourite thermal park with indoor/outdoor pools of varying temperatures
Negombo sits on 9ha of gardens and open space overlooking the Bay of San Montano
Ischai’s history as a grape-growing region goes back to the 8th century BC
when Greek settlers planted vines in the rich volcanic soil
Most of today’s vineyards can be found on the slopes of Mt Epomeo
which stands like a centurion over the island
Most renowned are the white wines produced from the Biancolella grape
The bounty of Ischia is seen in its farming and fishing, too, and there’s no shortage of notable restaurants on the largest island in the archipelago
La Pergola in the Grand Hotel Il Moresco is one example of a restaurant featuring locally sourced seafood and produce in an exquisite
white tablecloth setting with highly attentive waiters
the island’s indigenous rabbit is a favorite traditional dish
Several restaurants have their own version of coniglio all’ischitana
and Trattoria Il Focolare was featured on CNN’s Searching for Italy with Stanley Tucci
One of the best ways to explore the island of Ischia is by renting a private boat and captain at one of three ports on the island
Ischia Porto is the main port and a popular spot for boat rentals
West Coast Boat Rentals offers all-day tours of the island for as little as €400
taking swimmers to “secret” coves where they can snorkel and dive off the lava rocks
A popular stop for boaters is Ischia Ponte, a well-preserved fishing village in the shadow of Castello Aragones
a 5th-century BC castle and citadel that is open to the public 365 days a year
The beautifully preserved and restored walled fortress sits on a craggy inlet connected to the island by a causeway
With postcard views of the island and Mt Epomeo
the castle and its two towers are a prominent landmark on Ischia
the village below is a mix of small businesses
humble historic homes and aristocratic palaces
One of the baroque palaces is home to a marine museum
a Carthusian monastery dating back to the early 1300s
Boaters looking for a unique dining experience can dock at Ristorante La Scarrupata
accessible only by private boat or water taxi from Sant’Angelo — an ancient fishing village
artist colony and spa — or from La Mandra Beach near Ischia Ponte
with one of the most scenic trails ascending Mt Epomeo
it takes about an hour to trek to the top of the mountain for an extraordinary view of Ischia
One of Ischia’s many historic churches can be seen on this path
an artefact dating back to the 8th century BC
The Greek writing engraved on it reveals the important role that Pithecusae (now Ischia) played as a trading port
The seismic activity is constantly monitored in this region
which lies between the legendary volcano Vesuvius and the underwater craters in the Phlegraean Fields
It’s those very forces of nature that have made Ischia unique and one of the most biodiverse destinations in the world
Fly from Auckland to Naples with two stopovers with multiple airlines
The ferry trip from Naples to Ischia takes between 50 minutes and 1 hour 45 minutes
visitischia.info/en
The Marlborough Boutique Hotel offers luxury stays and a hatted restaurant, Harvest.
The largest island in the Bay of Naples, Ischia is renowned for its mineral-rich thermal waters, which attract Italians and tourists looking for rest, relaxation and rejuvenation.
That makes Ischia home to dozens of hotels and water parks offering access to the hot springs along with amenities such as pools, beaches and spa treatments.
But unlike its tonier cousin Capri, a spa day in Ischia doesn’t have to be pricey, especially if you visit Negombo Park.
Pack a lunch, a liter of water and your own beach towel, and a visit to Negombo can be had for about 80 euros, including a round-trip ferry ticket from Naples.
Just a few miles out of the town of Ischia, Negombo is a favorite with Italians fond of its lush gardens, meandering pathways leading to secluded thermal and marine, or saltwater, pools, private beaches and delicious dining options.
The 22-acre park is situated on San Montano Bay with breathtaking views of the Tyrrhenian Sea from a heated Olympic-sized pool and several locations throughout the park.
Getting there requires a 50-minute ferry ride across the Bay of Naples that includes views of the city and Mount Vesuvius as you sail past the islands of Capri and Procida.
A one-way ticket from Molo Beverello port in Naples costs about 21 euros, and ferries depart several times a day starting about 9 a.m. If you’re not staying the night, keep in mind that the last ferry for Naples leaves Ischia just before 7 p.m., so plan accordingly.
Once at Porto d’Ischia, you can take a bus for about 1.30 euros or hire a taxi for about 25 euros to get to Negombo. If you take the bus, be certain to get off at the San Montano stop in Lacco Amenio. From there, it’s about a 10- to-15-minute walk to the park.
It’s a bit hard to find, but Google maps and step-by-step directions should get you there. Hint: About a third of a block from the bus stop, there are stairs on the right side of the road that will cut your walking time.
The crowded, chaotic streets of Naples are replaced by quiet, peaceful curving paths surrounded by the dense foliage of trees, flowering shrubs and vines. The landscape includes liberal use of volcanic rock and contemporary art.
As you walk to the park’s changing rooms, you’ll see waterfalls, intimate seating areas and some of the park’s thermal baths and pools, carefully designed to appear as if they are in natural settings.
Entry to the park is based on how many hours you’ll be there. If you arrive early in the day, expect to pay about 105 euros for three adults. The price includes private beach access, an umbrella, two lounge chairs and a deck chair.
Prices are lower for half-day and evening sessions and children’s admission.
Reservations aren’t required but are recommended, especially if you visit during the summer months, when the park is typically full.
With your swimsuit on, you can choose one on any of several plazas outfitted with lounge and deck chairs or have an attendant help you stake out a spot on the beach.
Then it’s time to explore Negombo’s more than a dozen themed pools scattered throughout the park. There’s a Japanese-inspired attraction featuring cool and warm pools to wade through, and the Templare has several stone pillars with cascading waterfalls that gently massage you with 86-degree water.
Other pools, including the Buco Nero (Black Hole) and the Tuff grotto, feature walk-through rain paths, waterfalls and seating areas with water temperatures ranging from cool to nearly 90 degrees. The water is rich in minerals, salty and non-acidic.
While Negombo is affordable, amenities such as towel rental are costly. If you forget your towel, expect to pay about 5 euros for rental and a 10-euro deposit, which you’ll get back provided you return the towel in good condition.
The spa also offers pedicures, massages, facials and other services. But they’ll add substantially to the cost of your visit. For example, a basic pedicure without colored nail polish costs about 55 euros, not including a tip.
Negombo has several dining options with traditional Neapolitan menus, but care also is taken to offer salads, juices and other “clean eating” options. There is a full-service restaurant, cafe, outdoor self-service cafeteria and two bars.
Lunch for three at Negombo’s self-service restaurant cost us about 105 euros and included four pasta dishes, two salads, several drinks and a fruit dessert.
Negombo isn’t a place to be seen or heard. If you’re looking for a partylike atmosphere, it’s probably not for you.
But if you want to step away from Naples’ hectic pace and indulge in some affordable self-care, it’s the spot to be.
Cost: There are full-day, half-day and afternoon options. A full-day fee for an adult is about 35 euros. Prices are lower for children.
Hours: 8:30 a.m.-7 p.m. daily (holidays may affect hours or opening)
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the volcanic island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples had managed to coast under the radar with its glitzy little sister
And if you ask the Ischia locals and seasonal regulars who visit to swim in its mineral-rich thermal waters
they consider it a hotspot on the basis of its hot springs—a favorite of ancient Romans seeking self-care—rather than a trendy port of call
wearing retro high-waisted bikinis whilst noshing on ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms and enjoying the kind of Campari-soaked romp that would have given Slim Aarons FOMO
is chiefly responsible for all the buzz surrounding this spot
Since acquiring the Mezzatorre this January and opening in April
who has a background in architecture and interior design
quickly gave the hotel a transformative tuneup
“My goal was to create a space that was whimsical in a way,” she says
which is the same approach I had at Il Pellicano
I always try to nurture a timeless aesthetic
with nothing that goes in or out of fashion.”
Overlooking the Mediterranean in the dining room
this 16th century Moorish-style former watchtower has more than its fair share of photogenic charms: a sapphire swimming cove; glorious saltwater pool; on-site thermal spa; peach Bellini umbrellas that blend into the sunset and signature Pellicano mustard and white striped towels; plus gracious rooms that feel as though you are crashing at a friend’s plush yet unpretentious villa
The place is filled with apropos touches such as Pierre Frey fabric in the tented La Torre restaurant
aqua glass tumblers to match the Mediterranean
and glossy emerald tilework in the thermal spa
put together as you would do in a house,” she says
“I didn't want to make it feel like it was too ‘done’ and fully decorated in that very perfect interior design manner that they often do in hotels.”
felt like the most stylish summer camp imaginable
Comparing the destination to its neighbors
I’d say it is less sardine-packed than Positano and much more low-key than Capri
These are the qualities that also appealed to Sciò
“It's the real thing and still has something completely authentic about it,” she says
noting that it was once a playground for Brigitte Bardot
and Elizabeth Taylor in its 1950s and 1960s heyday
“But it wasn't further developed much more
So there's not all that international retail
and you still find local family restaurants
and very Italian—we consider it a rare gem.”
it is the type of place where recommendations are key
a guide to getting swept away with il dolce far niente (the art of doing nothing) in Ischia
Mezzatorre Hotel and Thermal SpaThis island classic recently underwent a stylish revamp
It’s hard to decide what’s more divine: the uni speghetti or the stunning swimming options
Miramare e Castello HotelAdjacent to the Aragonese Castle and the island’s the historical centre of Ischia Ponte
this seaside spot also offers grand views of the Gulf of Naples and a quirky Wes Anderson-esque mise-en-scene
Grand Hotel Excelsior TermeA former swinging ‘60s seaside villa of an English aristocrat
the property was more recently transformed by an Italian Count
It still retains its noble roots with rather regal interiors
Il PirataThis lively boite in the picturesque town of Sant’ Angelo is most beloved for its pizzeria
NeptunusDinner is elevated to commedia dell'arte theatre
with everyone from servers to the chef presenting each hearty dish with a spirited Italiano singalong
Even Naomi Campbell and Tina Turner have partaken
Giardini EdenDine right on the sea at this spot known for its fresh fruits de mer
Umberto A MareA smart restaurant with epic sea views and recalibrated mediterranean cuisine
Le Vigne di AlbertoA historic spot perched on the upper part of the island
The food is simple and menu minimal to allow the ancient flavors to shine
SeasonsThis beach restaurant puts a contemporary spin on seafood classics
It also has one of the best sunsets on the island
La Bella NapoliLocated near the port of Forio
this casual spot is most popular for its excellent pizza and home-made cookies
Il FocolareThis hillside slow-food restaurant specializes in grilled meats and Ischia-style rabbit
AragoneseA medieval castle built by Hiero I of Syracuse in 474 BC is adjacent to Ischia
Take a boat ride to this volcanic rocky islet that connects to Ischia by a scenic causeway
Mount EpomeoThe highest mountain on Ischia is believed to be a volcanic horst
Giardini La MortellaA former private garden first opened to the public in 1991
It was dreamt up in the 1950s by Susana Walton
Spiaggia dei Maronti BeachYou’ll find some of the best swimming on the southern part of the island. Have lunch at the nearby Belmare restaurant
Via Sorgeto Natural Hot SpringIf raw, rustic, and remote is more your speed, venture down a precarious staircase to this picturesque cove and wade into healing rock pools, heated from bubbling volcanic activity.
the setting for ‘My Brilliant Friend,’ is also a brilliant choice for a respite 1/2 Kayaking and swimming are popular pursuits in the hip beach town of Sant’ Angelo on Ischia
2/2 Ischia Porto is where you may arrive after a ferry trip to the Italian island
the setting of a memorable trip in Elena Ferrante’s novel “My Brilliant Friend.”
Print Reporting from ISCHIA
Italy — The 17-square-mile volcanic island of Ischia
a 90-minute ferry ride from Naples on Italy’s west coast
was a different world 60 years ago for Elena
the narrator of Elena Ferrante’s popular four-book series detailing the lifelong friendship of two women
received its first dose of glamour in the 1960s when Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were photographed kissing here
Ischia was the site of Elena’s first trip away from home in “My Brilliant Friend,” the first book in what’s known as the Neapolitan Novels
translated from Italian by Ann Goldstein and published between 2012 and 2015
has inspired a new generation of visitors to the island
The books were hailed as forceful accounts of the complex tensions and deeply felt emotions characteristic of long-standing female friendships
The popularity of “My Brilliant Friend” fueled a stage adaptation in Britain, and HBO announced in late March that it would co-produce and air an eight-part series based on the novel
Its reputation as a tome on female friendship spurred my friend Jenny
to suggest it as a book club pick for our trip last summer to Italy
A dozen close friends and I had rented a villa in Tuscany to celebrate several of their 35th birthdays
with its thermal sands and mountainous terrain
Six of us who had extra time would break off and spend four days in Ischia
Julian — had known one another a decade or more
both from her life growing up in an impoverished
violent neighborhood in Naples and from Lila
It also was an escape for us as we left behind our stressful professional lives
Each of the women on the trip had read “My Brilliant Friend” and had different takes on the relationships between the main characters
We each knew what it was like to have deep female friendships that involved feelings of affection muddled at times with jealousy and disappointment; our lives had been entangled as friends and roommates for years
who had focused on academia in order to leave her past
who chose marriage as a means to escape poverty
Rachel had booked a two-bedroom apartment (about $274 a night on HomeAway) for us near the main town Ischia Porto
It was hidden off a winding sidewalk draped with bougainvillea and a short distance from Spiaggia degli Inglesi
a small beach at the base of a craggy set of stairs
Although the challenges that bound us were different from those Elena and Lila had faced
the questions we shared were the same: How do we create lives that are our own and not ones that follow societal expectations
presented an obvious answer: Leave the familiar
“I felt the sensation that later in my life was often repeated: the joy of the new,” Elena said of Ischia
For us, that meant trying to communicate in broken Italian with the microtaxi driver on how to get to the thermal hot springs at Sorgeto
on the southwest side of the island (about $43 from Ischia Porto to Sorgeto)
The joy Elena had described we found in descending 214 steps to join Italian tourists soaking in the springs amid sharp
I felt that sense of discovery as we sped in a boat from Sorgeto to nearby Sant’ Angelo (about $11 per person)
a hip beach town dotted with umbrellas and souvenir stores
We wandered through the shops and drank Aperol Spritzes while watching the sun drop over the water
We didn’t have a set-in-stone plan for each day in Ischia
When we weren’t eating or at the hot springs
we jumped into the water from the ocean access that came with our rental
we joined the throngs in Ischia Porto perusing souvenir shops on Via Roma or strolling the waterfront along Via Porto
Nightlife consisted of late meals and lingering drinks
punctuated by the occasional blast of a ship’s horn or the heavy rumble of a ferry drawing anchor
where I spooned up an icy espresso at a beach bar and wondered if leaving the familiar and regularly seeing new places would be enough to bring lasting satisfaction
Rachel and Julian were getting engaged on a chalky hill overlooking the sea
rather than dictated by the circumstances that had penned in Elena and Lina
accessible paradise experienced by the characters in Ferrante’s novels
what had changed was our ability to escape and make our own destinies
Ischia is rife with spas and thermal waters
Italians and tourists slot themselves between the rocks and smear their skin with gray volcanic mud
or purchase jars of mud for about $10 from a local vendor
Ristorante La Sorgente abuts the rocky beach and offers everything from pasta and gelato to espresso and prosecco
Nitrodi
is another natural hot springs with waters touted as therapeutic
Entrance fees to the thermal park are about $11 to $13
Meanwhile, spa complexes such as the Negombo Thermal Gardens provide a more lavish way to experience Ischia’s heated water
The hydrothermal park is good for couples and families
and a visit there can easily take an entire day
More than dozen pools and showers are scattered throughout extensive gardens; there’s also a hammam
which is similar to a Turkish bath; beauty treatment rooms and a small hotel
shallow beach means adults and kids can wade far out into the ocean
alcohol and snacks are available from a snack bar
travel@latimes.com
Aer Lingus and Alitalia offer connecting service (change of planes) to Naples
Ferries and hydrofoil boats make several daily trips between the Port of Naples and Ischia
One-way fares from $14 for the ferry and from $20 for the hydrofoil
39 (country code for Italy) and the local number
AirBNB lists rentals in Ischia from $50 a night
while HomeAway has rentals from $106 a night
restaurants and shopping are all in walking distance
Hotel della Baia
Double rooms with breakfast from $165 per person
Mezzatorre Resort & Spa
Dramatic cliff-side views and an air of James Bond-style luxury
Il Focolare
Slow-food fare specializing in Ischian cuisine
Solid seafood dishes such as spaghetti alle vongole
Ischia tourism and Italian Tourism
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when I open the shutters and look at Sant’Angelo,” wrote the painter Eduard Bargheer in 1935
“I’m hit by the same joyful shock that everything really exists
together with his compatriot Werner Gilles
was one of the “degenerate artists” banned from Nazi Germany; their long search for a suitably inspirational place in which to live and paint led them to the southern coast of Ischia
an island in the Tyrrhenian Sea 19 miles west of Naples
Should your own quest be for a great-value holiday
that can also be fulfilled by this captivating island
Sant’Angelo spills romantically downhill in a tangle of whitewashed houses
a narrow isthmus divides the marina’s bobbing boats from a strip of fudge-coloured sand festooned with summer deckchairs
verdant tufa outcrop that mushrooms upwards in fantastical
No wonder Bargheer wondered if he was hallucinating
The family-run Hotel Casa Adolfo lies uphill
It has a small outdoor pool with sunloungers on its sea-facing terrace
plus extensive fragrant gardens and a restaurant serving typical regional dishes including coniglio all’Ischitana
Some also have air-conditioning; last May temperatures reached 27C in Ischia
Expedia has a week-long package for £349pp
you could even shave that down to a bargain £307pp.)
Hotel Casa AdolfoETTORE CONTE/EXPEDIAFrom Sant’Angelo’s ceramics studio
clothing boutiques and other casual restaurants
a scenic path meanders for 350m past colourful houses to the pretty Fumarole beach
where islanders sometimes cook food using geothermal vents in the sand
the two-mile Maronti beach ends at Cavascura
a complex of grottoes first developed by the Romans
where health-seekers can bathe in pools warmed to different temperatures by natural hot springs
Hotel Casa Adolfo can arrange scooter hire for visiting other sights
such as Aragonese Castle perched on a tidal islet near Ischia town
Just uphill from Sant’Angelo in the neighbouring village of Serrara Fontana
a two-mile hiking path ascends sharply through chestnut woods to the summit of Mount Epomeo
for vistas as far as the mainland’s Mount Vesuvius on clear days
From Naples Capodichino airport you’ll need to take a shuttle bus to the port of Molo Beverello (£4 one way; naples-airport.info)
frequent hydrofoils take an hour to connect to northerly Ischia Porto (£34 return; alilauro.it)
Then you can either walk for ten minutes and get one of three island-circuiting buses — the Circolare Destra
about 45 minutes) — or a taxi (usually about £35 one way) across the island
and down the zigzagging road to Sant’Angelo
• Return Gatwick-Naples flights • 23kg hold luggage• Seven nights’ B&B at Hotel Casa Adolfo (expedia.co.uk)
If you’re inspired and have more cash to splash
Grand Hotel Punta MolinoOn the fringes of Ischia town
the luxurious Grand Hotel Punta Molino was designed in stately 19th-century style by the renowned Italian architect Giulio de Luca
There’s a private sandy beach with views of the Aragonese fortress
plus no fewer than three pools: one faces the sea and its siblings are heated by more of the island’s celebrated thermal waters
A formal outdoor restaurant serving Mediterranean fare also looks to the Gulf of Naples
as do many of the 90 rooms that are decorated in warm
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £1,338pp
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Carol is an editor with SmarterTravel Media
and trying every local cuisine she can find
You can follow her journeys @cj_mcpherson on Instagram
and artfully placed villas welcome guests to a Mediterranean island getaway
The Botania Relais & Spa is located on the sunny island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples
Ischia is a roughly 18 square mile volcanic island
with six towns and a rolling landscape that culminates in the central Mount Epomeo
Ischia is an ideal weekend trip from Naples
The island is known for its sandy beaches, castles, hilly neighborhoods, and for being home to the Fonte delle Ninfe Nitrodi
The Botania is situated in the town of Forio and is a fifteen minute drive from Ischia Porto
a small port lined with seaside restaurants and tiny shops
Guests will not have to lift a finger during their stay at the Botania
No sooner had a member of my group spilled sauce on her shirt during dinner than a staff member was by her side with a laundry brush and miracle stain remover
From a basket of free sunblock by the pool to flip flops provided in-room for the spa
I couldn’t think of a single thing I’d want that wasn’t already provided for
The standout amenity is unquestionably the thermal baths
typically charging a 40-50 euro (about $43-$54 USD) entry fee
The two indoor and two outdoor thermal baths at the Botania
The indoor baths are part of the onsite spa and don’t require a reservation
although one is suggested if trying to use the baths at peak times
The Botania Relais & Spa is unique in the world of luxury hotels, earning a One Michelin Key rating
The 48 rooms are distributed among 10 villas that are built into an extensive botanical garden
nearly impossible to see all it has to offer in just one visit
Among the flowering plants and fruit trees there are also produce and herb gardens that supply the resort’s onsite restaurants
Each room and suite at the Botania Relais & Spa has an Italian marble bathroom
The rooms are distributed across ten villas
each of which is central to hotel amenities like the restaurant
Walking paths connect the villas to the main check in area and the rest of the botanical garden
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I stayed in a Superior Room with a garden patio
tucked away behind the path to the pool and bar
The outdoor space was shared with adjoining rooms
but the surrounding walls of vegetation gave plenty of privacy
The bathroom was luxurious but still maintained the character of the resort
A feature I particularly enjoyed was the ability to control most of the lights from the bedside switch letting me skip the awkward bedtime shuffle across the room to dim the lights
Each side of the bed also offered a small reading light on a maneuverable arm
The wifi password is not immediately obvious in the room
so make sure to get it from the front desk at check in before settling in for the night
The local flavors of Ischia are reflected in the three dining options at Botania
Il Corbezzolo is an upscale Michelin Star dining experience serving southern Italian fare crafted from local ingredients and the resort’s own gardens
sourced from the catch of the day brought in by local fisherman
Finish off your meal with a sip of rucolino
an arugula aperitif with a savory kick that is distilled right on the island
The resort’s breakfast buffet is served daily from 7:30am to 10:30 am terrace outside Il Corbezzolo and includes your choice of eggs
Everything on the Il Mirto menu is vegetarian or vegan, earning it the island’s first Michelin Green Star for sustainability
the restaurant also works to eliminate single-use plastics
and tailors the menu to center seasonally available ingredients
Nonna Marì is the most casual dining option
built around the concept of ‘your grandmother’s kitchen.’ There’s no set menu—guests are invited to join for whatever is on offer that evening
much like dropping by your grandma’s house for dinner and a visit
Nonna Marì also offers cooking classes where you can try your hand at crafting authentic Italian cuisine
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La Grotta Bar is built into a cave
serving craft cocktails and light bites in a cool intimate atmosphere illuminated by ambient lighting and decorated with cozy jewel-toned furniture
Iris Bar is the resort’s outdoor bar option
Enjoy a cocktail with a view of the resort’s heated pool and surrounded by the plant life of the gardens
Editor’s Note: Botania Relais & Spa hosted the author of this story
“My Brilliant Friend” tells the fictional story of two childhood friends
navigating the complexities of growing up in 1950s Naples
HBO’s critically acclaimed TV series My Brilliant Friend highlights the gritty
Based on Italian author Elena Ferrante’s beloved four-part series known as the Neopolitan Novels
the story reflects on the perils that two childhood friends face growing up in post-war Naples
The acclaimed TV show premiered on HBO in November 2018 with an eight-episode season adapted from the first novel of the series (from which the show takes its name)
The subsequent season is based on the second book in Ferrante’s series
2020; the season finale airs on HBO on May 4
Over the course of these first two seasons
the drama unfolds against an alluring backdrop of sprawling piazzas
and a craggy island surrounded by turquoise water
While much of My Brilliant Friend was shot on sets in the southern Italian city of Caserta
many exterior shots from the first two seasons were filmed on location in Naples
The sixth episode even takes viewers to Ischia
a handsome volcanic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea reachable in 90 minutes by ferry from Naples
the neighborhood where main characters Elena “Lenù” Greco and Raffaella “Lila” Cerullo grow up is left unnamed
although it’s thought to be based on the working-class Rione Luzzatti zone
Rione Luzzatti’s streets consist of Fascist-era housing blocks and unadorned architecture that
But the area’s vendor-filled streets offer visitors an authentic look at life for average Neapolitans
beyond the well-heeled areas of Chiaia and Volmero
Rione Luzzatti is also home to Biblioteca Andreoli
a public library that features a My Brilliant Friend–themed mural created by the official set photographer from the HBO series production
Castaldo used enlarged cut-outs of images from the show to create the public artwork
which shows a young Lila and Lenù heading for the library’s doors while Maestro Ferraro
In the mural Ferraro holds a portrait of a real-life librarian
who founded the Biblioteca Andreoli in the 1940s
In season one of HBO’s “My Brilliant Friend” TV series
Margherita Mazzucco stars as a teenage Elena “Lenù” Greco and Gaia Girace as Raffaella “Lila” Cerullo
Behind this well-preserved medieval gate is a bustling outdoor market that encapsulates the fast-moving daily life in Rione Luzzatti
visitors will overhear vendors bargaining in thick Neapolitan dialect and might glimpse local women hanging laundry
and even arguing from their balconies—just as they do in Ferrante’s tale
On the centrally located Via Vesuvio, this old-school Italian bakery is famous for pagnutielle, a typical Neapolitan street snack made from eggs, ham, and cheese. The main characters in My Brilliant Friend often order similar pastries (both in the book and onscreen). Sample the traditional treat yourself for about €1 at Il Pasticciello
Originally built in central Naples during the 15th century, the Church of the Sacred Family was transported brick by brick to Rione Luzzatti after it was decided in the 1920s that the neighborhood needed a place of worship. According to Danielle Oteri, local tour guide and author of Ferrante Fever: A Naples Travel Guide Inspired by Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Novels (Bowker
the Sacra Famiglia’s majolica-style dome is characteristic of the traditional tile-topped churches found along Italy’s Amalfi Coast
Just southwest of Rione Luzzatti in the Mercato district, the unassuming Pizzeria Carmnella serves a pie dedicated to Elena Ferrante
the €8 pizza includes the classic ingredients many Neapolitans eat at a traditional Sunday lunch
“The Story of a New Name,” the show’s protagonists spend a summer in Ischia
Two episodes of the show’s second season are dedicated to the two protaganists’ summer in Ischia
an island in the Gulf of Naples (about an hour by ferry from Naples)
Often referred to as the lesser-known Capri
Ischia is a popular vacation spot for Neapolitans and other Europeans who come for hot springs
The island’s main town is split into two parts: Ischia Porto (where passengers arrive by ferry from Naples) and the slightly larger village of Ischia Ponte
and the Tower of Michelangelo (a 15th-century fortress house where Michelangelo reportedly lived)
visiting locations described in the novels and a Ferrante-inspired creative writing workshop led by a literature professor
Both Mount Epomeo and the bay of Citara make appearances in the second season of “My Brilliant Friend.”
an area on Ischia’s western coast where Lila shares a holiday home with her husband
volcanic Mount Epomeo serves as the backdrop for many sites in Forio that make appearances in Ferrante’s story
such as the 18th-century Palazzo Cigliano in the town’s historic center
My Brilliant Friend was renewed for a third season on HBO
The episodes—which will be based on the third novel in the quartet
Those Who Leave and Those Who Stay—won’t air for a while
the good news is that you can look forward to more southern Italy on your TV screen
This article originally appeared online in December 2018; it was updated on May 4
>>Next: Will We Be Able to Travel This Summer?
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which means we may earn a commission if you purchase an item featured on our site.© 2025 AFAR LLC
I'll forgive you if you have never heard of the island of Ischia before
A relaxing island of volcanic origin where you can find more than 100 thermal springs that have countless healing powers that made it a popular wellness destination
people come to the island for its beautiful sandy beaches
its history and to experience La Dolce Vita in its most authentic form
A number of scenes from the film 'The Talented Mr Ripley' were shot on the island of Ischia
Director Anthony Minghella had done his best to find suitable locations around Amalfi that could capture the glamour of the 1950s
but on Ischia he found his Hollywood version of Italy: narrow cobbled streets with laundry hanging out to dry
belvederes and black-clad old ladies selling fruit at the morning market
An idyllic Italy straight out of La Dolce Vita
Yet it seems that foreign tourists have only recently discovered this gem
we met only a handful of Germans in the island's main town
where there are many shops with well-known fashion brands
but the island still retains a lovely old-fashioned Italian feel
elderly men lean on their canes and discuss the weather
while their wives go to church to say a quick prayer or light a candle
complimenting pretty girls on their way to work.
Ischia is a welcoming and affordable island full of tropical gardens
For 2,500 years people have come to Ischia for therapeutic spa treatments
Fangotherapy is particularly popular with the island's visitors
Bathing in volcanic mud to treat rheumatism and muscular ailments has never gone out of fashion
Hot springs bubble out of the mountains everywhere
with water temperatures ranging from 20°C to 100°C
sulphurous water even makes some parts of the beach too hot to walk on - making a stretch of the long Maronti beach ideal for frying freshly caught fish
Ischia is a 17km-long island of tufa and bougainvillea
has changed little since the first summer she came here some 40 years ago
the visitors were mostly residents of the bustling city of Naples
it is still mostly Italians who visit the island
returning each year to the same guesthouses and rental flats
each summer a chance to renew old friendships
Mules may no longer be allowed to carry suitcases up the steep hills of Sant'Angelo
but it is still a characteristic Mediterranean village with colourful houses built on a tufa back of the mountain and has sweeping views of the crystal-clear sea around Ischia
it is a pedestrianised area and at the same time the place where everyone meets everyone else
There are many shops selling ceramics and restaurants with tables outside
It is a great place to enjoy the conviviality of this otherwise quiet village
The mules of yesteryear have been replaced by a rather odd-looking mini trolley
This is the only means of transport allowed to carry suitcases through the narrow streets to the hotels and apartments
a few minutes' walk between swarms of lizards that are quick to take cover
the Aphrodite Apollon thermal bath complex appears before me
each named after a Greek or Roman god or goddess
hidden between the cliffs that rise up from the sea: an unimaginably beautiful complex
If you are in search of an original organic spa experience and are prepared to walk 40 minutes through a volcanic canyon to Cavascura
you will find a small spa with thermal springs used since Roman times
You can ask for a fango massage with therapeutic mud or enjoy a sauna in the caves; the water for the showers comes directly from hot springs and is not additionally heated.But the greatest magic of Ischia is not found in the villages or even in the glittering sea - but in the hills
the landscape of Ischia changes dramatically
white lava and dark green vineyards give way to dusty cliffs and flowers
It's an hour's drive from the village of Fontana
but the reward isn't just the breathtaking sea views
a restaurant carved entirely from soft volcanic rock
I recommend a visit to the hamlets between Sant'Angelo and Epomeo - Serrara and Fontana - with their brightly painted houses
a 19th-century church with statues of the Virgin Mary and one or two bars where you can get an espresso or fresh spremuta d'arancia (orange juice) for little more than 1 euro
The food is also very different from that at the foot of the mountain: no seafood or fish here
with fresh herbs and even fresher tomatoes
The small restaurants nestled among the vineyards look a little deserted at the end of the season and you may find the door closed if you haven't called ahead to let them know you're coming
the centre of the island's wine production
I am high above the pretty fishing port of La Mortella
where the late British composer Sir William Walton lived and where his widow Susanna has created a fairy garden - a wonderland of tropical flowers
with the gentle sounds of oriental music in the background
take time to enjoy a real English tea in the small tearoom
Lady Walton came to Ischia with Sir William
the man who wrote the heartbreakingly beautiful score for Laurence Olivier's Henry V and whose music was played at the coronations of George VI and Elizabeth II.The couple bought a piece of land in a lush valley below Mount Epomeo with spectacular sea views
Their friends Sir Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh begged them not to
Nothing could be further from the truth and today it is one of the most famous tropical gardens in the world
There are three concert seasons in the Gardens each year: in spring and autumn
chamber music concerts are held on Saturdays and Sundays in the indoor Recital Hall; in summer
the Festival of Youth Orchestras with symphonic concerts is held every Thursday evening in the Greek Amphitheatre (outdoor)
These concerts are performed by young musicians (up to 32 years old)
For reservations concerts click here.
is the magnet for the permatanned super-rich
but it's on Ischia that you feel you've found a slice of undiscovered paradise
It's a destination for those who want to take their time when they go on holiday; getting there isn't very fast
Thanks to Elena Ferrante's bestseller "My Brilliant Friend" and the TV series filmed on the island
which cater for almost every ailment and budget
but Ischia offers so much more it would be a shame to stop there
Boat trips take in the spectacular rocky coastline
fishing villages and pine forests which cover 46km2 of the island
An easy and cheap way to get around the island and see Ischia's natural beauty is by minibus
making it one of the longest on the island
and it overlooks Sant'Angelo and the castle
To the right of the beach are the thermal baths of Cavascura
There is a path through the gorge to the sound of the water
The entrance fee is €15 and includes a hot shower and sauna in the caves - which is great even when it's hot - followed by 20 minutes in a Roman bath carved into the cave. Access to the cave itself is free of charge
take a water taxi to the small port of Sant'Angelo and mingle with tourists in the cafes and terraces
water taxis take and pick up bathers to small coves elsewhere on the island
The 14th century Castello Aragonese stands 600 feet above sea level
It is connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway
It was besieged by Nelson and was once a convent where creepy mummified nuns sat upright on stone benches
It is now used to house a colony of feral cats
The castle served as a backdrop when Tom Ripley (Matt Damon) murdered Dickie Greenleaf (Jude Law) after luring him out to sea in a rowboat
an impressive exhibition of archaeological finds from the Greek settlement of Pithecusae
a private collection of African art and a photographic exhibition from Ischia's 1960s heyday
featuring celebrities from Sophia Loren to the Pope
If you've had enough of the beach and hot springs
climb the mountain to visit the botanical gardens of Giardini Mortella
you might want to attend one of the open-air concerts held here during the summer months
but as a reward you can treat yourself to lunch at La Grotta da Fiore
you have great views of the sister islands of Capri and Procida
If there was one Italian (re-)opening that was worth seeing last summer
has a knack for attracting beautiful people with her chic brand `Il Dolce Far Niente´ (the delightful doing nothing)
was not the obvious choice for her family's third hotel
Sciò transformed the sea-urchin colored building into a 16th-century watchtower with turrets and a pirate lookout
taking over the historic Mezzatorre on the island's wild north-western tip
head to Bar La Torre for heavenly Negroni Bagliatos
A deep-green tiled thermal pool of mineral water and nutrient-rich mud bubbles in the basement
you can hear the soft murmur of guests around the magnificent outdoor saltwater pool and horseshoe-shaped terraces overlooking the bay
This is the Italy of Slim Aarons and The Talented Mr Ripley (partly filmed here)
Hotel Maront in Barano is a cosy family-run hotel close to the island's longest sandy beach
They offer 25 neat rooms and a large outdoor terrace where breakfast (with delicious homemade jams and marmalades) is served in the shade of a pretty magnolia tree
The Miramare Sea Resort & Spa is located in a pedestrian area of Sant'Angelo
the rooms are Mediterranean-style and have balconies with sea views
Access to the hotel's spa includes the Aphrodite Apollon Thermal Gardens with 8 thermal pools
a fitness centre and a naturally heated sauna
My favourite hotel on the island is the Moorish Il Moresco
Most of the cast of Ripley stayed at Il Moresco
It has a beautiful natural spa that Gwyneth Paltrow is said to have used
There are three heated pools and the mineral-rich water comes straight from thermal springs
one of which is in an ancient hidden cave where wine was kept cool for centuries
N minutes from Ischia Porto is a good mid-range hotel and a perfect base for exploring the island
I would give this hotel just over the 3 stars it has
A household name and probably the most luxurious hotel on the island
The thermal baths are open from late March to mid-November and the last 2 weeks of December
A string of beautiful people have made the Regina Isabella famous
when media magnate and film producer Angelo Rizzoli opened the hotel
luminaries like Elizabeth Taylor and Maria Callas were regular guests
The stars' names are discreetly engraved on the door of the suites
Every glass of wine you order here is accompanied by a lavish selection of Italian delicacies
Guests at the Regina Isabella won't lack anything during their stay
Villa Isabella is described as the 'Mediterrenian´s first private residence club'
and it is believed to be a sanctuary for the mega-rich
On the hillside is the Casa Garibaldi B&B with a large garden
Owner Luisa Iacono keeps the same rooms for the same regulars every year
has been baking the same special brioches for Sunday breakfasts since the 1990s
located 480m above sea level in Serrara Fontana
on the menu rabbit and various other local dishes
rabbit or bucatini served as main course or in a stew
Ristorante I Ricci: Speciality pasta with squid
for the best pizza and several good pasta dishes and friendly service
Ristorante Emmanuela, Emmanuela is now retired
but her place has been taken over by her children and an enthusiastic in-law
Try the spaghetti all'Emmanuela - with fresh shellfish cooked in a tomato sauce with a hint of spicy peperoncino
Zi Nannina a Mare, The interior is a bit dated
6 Reasons to visit Amalfi and Capri in the fall
Children of Naples
Submerged Naples
From here you can take a taxi to the port of Naples and either take the hydrofoil
a 40-minute crossing on the north side of the port
If you want to arrive as early as possible
you should definitely take the hydrofoil on the way there
but you will need the ferry on the way back for the most spectacular views of Naples
we do not recommend that you travel by hydrofoil
Naples airport is about 20 minutes from the port of Beverello by taxi or bus (alibus)
where you'll find several ferry companies offering crossings
Take the hydrofoil (takes about 40 minutes) or the slower ferry
Timetables for hydrofoils can be found here
There is absolutely no reason to hire a car to stay on the island of Ischia
Buses run frequently and quickly into the early hours of the morning
Tickets for the regular bus service around the island cost €1.20 and are valid for 90 minutes
A great tip is a boat trip on one of the water taxis or round trips to explore the island
The Captain Morgan boat offers a three-hour tour that also stops in Sant'Angelo for €15 - Telephone : +39 081 98 50 80
Excursions around the island or to nearby Capri and Procida can also be booked through Linee Rumore Marittima - Website : www.rumoremarittima.it - Telephone : +39 081 98 36 36)
It takes about 30 minutes to reach Procida from the port of Ischia (at a cost of 10 €)
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ShareSaveLifestyleTravelIschia Is More: A New Campaign Promotes Sustainable Tourism To The IslandByLivia Hengel
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
Livia Hengel is a travel journalist covering Italy
10:02am EDTShareSaveThis article is more than 4 years old.At the time of publishing
American travelers are not permitted to visit Italy and international travel is not currently advised
This piece is intended to serve as inspiration (and armchair travel) while we wait for the situation to improve
Ischia's Castello Aragonese dates back to the 5th century BC
Ischia, an island celebrated for its healing thermal springs, verdant hills and crystalline waters, wants visitors to know that there’s more to it than just mare e montagna – the sea and the mountains. Ischia Is More
This is the catchphrase behind a new campaign designed to boost tourism to the “Isola Verde” and raise its profile in the face of a pandemic that has devastated tourism in Italy and abroad
Located off the coast of Naples and blessed with fertile
Ischia has been a wellness destination for millennia
first attracting the Ancient Greeks and later modern-day travelers to soak in the healing waters of its resorts
But the island also boasts scenic mountain trails
charming villages and an exciting calendar of events that celebrate regional foods
A view of Ischia Porto from the Castello Aragonese
have banded together to spur sustainable tourism to the island through the new campaign
“Inclusivity is one of our founding principles
wants to inspire visitors to experience Ischia in a new light by using digital tools to reach a wider audience
Italians everywhere have embraced teamwork and digital communication with new fervor
Ischia Is More opted to launch its campaign on Instagram and is enlisting digital ambassadors to share emotive and authentic stories from the island
from spotlighting its people and traditions to its accommodations and trattorias
Sant'Angelo is one of the most charming villages on Ischia
One of the main objectives of the campaign is to extend the tourist season beyond the summer months by encouraging travel in the off season
attracts tourists between April and October
and the hot springs are ideal even in the winter months,” says Luca D’Ambra
a hospitality association for the island of Ischia
we need to ensure that services like hotels
restaurants and transportation stay open.”
The Giardini Poseidon Terme is the largest thermal park on Ischia with more than 20 pools
The island hosts numerous culinary events throughout the year
a food festival each September that celebrates regional cuisine
and “Stelle In Strada” (Stars in the Streets) which invites Michelin-starred chefs to prepare street food in December
Spring is a great time to enjoy the natural flora and fauna of the island on nature hikes to the top of Mount Epomeo and two botanical gardens
Fall marks the vendemmia (wine harvest) at Ischia’s picturesque vineyards where you can sip Biancolella
an acclaimed white wine that originates on the island
“Stelle In Strada” invites Michelin-starred chefs to prepare street food along one of Ischia's main ..
And if you decide to visit during the summer
you can attend the island’s celebrated Ischia Film Festival which screens movies against the backdrop of the medieval Castello Aragonese
or you can go scuba diving to explore the ancient submerged city of “Aenaria” located on the southeastern coast
It’s easy to spend an entire week on the island
given the wide variety of activities the island has to offer beyond its beaches
“We launched this campaign to promote a destination we know and love
and we hope to welcome more partners and investors to help us spotlight the beauty of Ischia.”
For more information, visit @IschiaIsMore
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Picturesque Ischia is worth spending 20 extra minutes on a ferry to reach © Getty Images
Ischia is a small, but highly populated, volcanic island that is either one hour from Naples if you get the ferry
I do not want to draw an overly simplistic conclusion based on the fact that we
two hard-bitten and efficiency-driven Londoners
I don’t want to suggest that the pace of the island changed our outlook; made us softer
less conscious of the value of 20 minutes and of what can possibly be achieved in that time
All I am saying is that the hydrofoil is a hell beast
and that the only reason a sane person would get it is if they had been tricked into doing so
Do I feel tricked into getting the hydrofoil
and deeply unpleasant to actually experience
a man in reflective sunglasses and a high-viz jacket hands you a blue plastic shopping bag to get sick in
thinking that the language barrier is what’s preventing his answer
Tourists scream and hug their knees while Ischian commuters doze peacefully
To ride the hydrofoil is to be on the inside of a hardware store paint mixer; to ride the hydrofoil is to confront death itself
But anyway. We arrive on Ischia, an island that was virtually unknown to non-Italian travellers until Elena Ferrante name-checked it in her famous Neapolitan novel series; or
until Ryanair started directing more flights into Naples
In the marina, we find a huddle of highly efficient young men who, in exchange for a scan of a driving licence and 100 euros (with some haggling) will give you a boat for a day. Have we any sailing abilities? Had we ever driven a boat before? Hell no, and don’t let that stop you either. If you can drive a bumper car, you can drive a boat, and it’s by far the best way to see the island.
You can dock in Forio, a dusty little town just half an hour west of the main port of Ischia, go cave-swimming, or just drop anchor (drop anchor! Imagine! Saying ‘drop anchor’ in real life!) by one of the many seaside resorts and silently hang out with the plethora of other boats stopping for a lunchtime ocean picnic.
This is the flipside of the hideous hydrofoil: for every moment you’re tossed around a deadly ski boat, wondering “SURELY someone should have asked whether one of us was pregnant or had a heart condition? SURELY this can’t be legal?”, you get another kind of moment. The kind of unregulated, unfussy joy of cracking a beer open on a rented speedboat, eating a pizza with your hands in the street, or watching a senselessly-planned firework display in the middle of the day.
To quote my Ischian death boat driver: I don’t know. Maybe.
towns and historic sites – such as Sorrento – offer the chance to unwind and discover
With its buzzing street life, fascinating neighborhoods and exhilarating sea views, Naples serves up plenty of things to see and do
But the pace of life in the city is full throttle
Taking your foot off the pedal by setting out on a day trip from Naples promises a breath of fresh air
its Roman heritage and authentic island culture
Read on for our list of the most alluring day trips from Naples
the city’s best-kept secret is the unsung collection of bubbling mud pits and steaming fumaroles known as Campi Flegrei (the Phlegrean Fields)
Scattered across this cinematic geothermal landscape are several Greco-Roman ruins that make for a highly rewarding day of exploring
The Flavian Amphitheater sites in Pozzuoli can be reached on Line 2 of the Naples Metro or via the Cumana railway
The rest of the Campi Flegrei area is spread out and not well served by public transport; fixed-rate taxi fares are available for Baia and Cuma
Travel time: 1 hour 20 minutes by train and bus
An early-morning hike up Mt Vesuvius is one of Italy’s great adventures
Since exploding into history in 79 CE (when it buried the nearby towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum in pumice)
Vesuvius has blown its top more than 30 times
Anyone with a reasonable fitness level – including kids – can manage the steep 30-minute ascent from the parking lot to the ash-dusted crater rim
the bird’s-eye views from the summit of the city and bay of Naples are unforgettable
Make a day of it by uncovering local flora and fauna on one of the nine marked walking paths that wind through the surrounding Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio (Vesuvius National Park)
The best summit hike for seasoned walkers is the moderately difficult 3.8km (2.3mi) Gran Cono trail
From Naples take the Circumvesuviana or seasonal Campania Express train (30 to 35 minutes) to the Pompeii–Villa dei Misteri stop, then jump on a public EAV bus to the Vesuvius summit car park (around 50 minutes)
Travel time: 35 minutes (Pompeii) and 15 minutes (Herculaneum) by train
Elevated stepping stones once allowed prosperous Pompeiians to stroll along the elegant main street without getting their shoes covered in muck – and you can follow the same stones today
a surreal experience (and something kids will love)
To understand the complete story, pair your Pompeii visit with a dig around its frozen-in-time twin Herculaneum
Home today to a fishing village of 4000 inhabitants
the site is smaller and less overwhelming than Pompeii
allowing you to visit without the nagging feeling that you may have missed a crucial ruin or carbonized fresco
How to get to Pompeii and Herculaneum from Naples:
From Naples take the Circumvesuviana or seasonal Campania Express train to the Pompeii–Villa dei Misteri stop (30 to 35 minutes)
The same train stops at Ercolano–Scavi train station (15 minutes from Naples and 30 minutes from Pompeii); from here
it’s a 500m (0.3mi) walk downhill along Via 4 Novembre to Herculaneum’s scavi (ruins)
An essential stop on every Grand Tour in the 19th century – and a favorite hobnobbing spot for the likes of Byron, Dickens and Tolstoy – this romantic town on the Amalfi Coast has lost none of its old-world charm
Head here early and devote the morning to meandering cobbled shopping alleys of the old town
awash with independent boutiques and artisan studios selling handcrafted leather goods
tangy limoncello (lemon liqueur) and crafts made from Sorrento’s world-famous inlaid wood
Sorrento is the last stop on the Circumvesuviana rail line from Naples. Trains run every 30 minutes from Naples (70 minutes), with stops in Pompeii and Ercolano (for Herculaneum). Sailing time on the hydrofoils that run year-round from Naples is around 20 minutes
If you can tolerate the high-season crowds, a summertime visit to Naples’ most beautiful island will knock your socks off. If you don’t love crowds, we recommend visiting in spring or early fall for a calmer experience
there are enough temptations to fill several days here if you have the time to spare
Board a high-speed hydrofoil (40 minutes) from Naples’ Molo Beverello port to Capri’s Marina Grande
more scenic island ferry (75 minutes) from Naples’ Porta di Massa
A short boat ride from Naples is the rocky outcrop of Ischia, the bay’s largest island, which is guarded by the looming mass of 789m (2589ft) Monte Epomeo
vineyards and volcanic-rock formations fill in the interior
manicured gardens and private beach clubs lace the busy coastline
The town of Ischia Porto has the best choice of bars and restaurants
High-speed hydrofoils (45 minutes) run to Ischia’s main ferry terminal in Ischia Porto from Naples’ Molo Beverello port
The admission fee covers a visit to the lavishly appointed royal apartments, Palatine chapel, royal court theater and a wonderful collection of traditional Neapolitan Christmas cribs. When you’re done with the interiors, come up for air with a jaunt through the palace’s equally sumptuous grounds, which can be explored on foot or by bus, bike or horse-drawn carriage. Don’t miss the English Garden, with its seductive Bath of Venus.
Regular trains link Naples with Caserta train station (50 minutes), from where it's a five-minute walk to the palace.
Ischia’s rustic villages – wonderfully evoked by the Italian novelist – have retained their charm and beauty
Few works of fiction have captured the sultry grittiness of southern Italy like Elena Ferrante’s wildly successful Neapolitan quartet, which concluded this month with the English translation of The Story of the Lost Child
Ferrante’s 1950s Naples is a chaotic mire of sweat and stymied ambition – a place her characters all struggle to escape
A one-hour ferry ride from the city, Ischia is a 17-square-mile island of parched tufa and bougainvillea that has hardly changed since the languid summers when Ferrante’s teenage protagonists – fleeing Naples’ stultifying heat and poverty – discover their respective sexualities on the thermal beach at Maronti
the majority of visitors to Ischia are Italians; many
often returning to the same guesthouses and rental apartments every year
each summer a chance to catch up with old friends
beloved by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor
its villages still evoke the languid days of Ferrante’s heroines
While Emmanuela herself has retired from the kitchen – replaced by various children and eager in-laws
she still maintains tasting rights over her signature spaghetti all’Emmanuela – fresh rock-caught shellfish tossed in a tomato sauce that
betrays a hint of piquant peperoncino (chilli)
a tiny shack-like spa over thermal springs whose use dates back to Roman times
Massages here are still done with fango (therapeutic mud)
and the water for the showers is warmed by the springs themselves
That’s not to say Sant’Angelo is excessively traditionalist. At dusk, visitors and locals fill the town square, and bars such as the eclectic if pricey Tavernetta del Pirata – something between a ceramic shop and a 1950s-style American piano bar – overflow with revellers seeking chilled limoncello and genial raucousness
Casa GaribaldiBut Ischia’s greatest enchantment lies not in its villages
nor even in the shimmering of its seaside – but in its hills
Dusty cliffs and flowers give way to brambles
Most visitors to Ischia’s mountain tend to do as Ferrante’s Elena and her unworthy beloved Nino did and make straight for the top of Epomeo – an hour-long scramble from the village of Fontana, to be rewarded not just by sea views but by lunch at La Grotta da Fiore
which is carved into the soft volcanic rock
But a longer stay – wandering the many narrow lanes that wind off the island’s single ring road – yields more of Ischia’s secrets
The hamlets between Sant’Angelo and Epomeo – Serrara
geometric villages: each with pale painted houses
a 19th-century church with painted statues of Mary and the archangels and one or two bars for espressos and fresh spremuta d’arancia (orange juice)
such a telephone call procures a whole-day affair: rabbit transformed first into an earthy sugo (sauce) for chewy bucatini (spaghetti with a hole through the middle,) then served for main course in a still-sizzling stew (dessert is grapes
Moments before embarking on her first affair
contemplates the sensual idleness of the island
“Now the moon was visible amid scattered pale-edged clouds; the evening was very fragrant
and you could hear the hypnotic rhythm of the waves.”
EasyJet and Thompson fly to Naples from several UK airports. Ferry crossings from Naples to Ischia take around an hour
more affordable neighbour is well worth the trip
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Now that double-jabbed Brits no longer need to quarantine on arrival in Italy
many of us are scrambling to arrange a last minute slice of La Dolce Vita
And while, the iconic island of Capri attracts tourists in their hordes for its dazzling scenery and designer shopping, those looking for something a little less flash (and more affordable) should look to nearby Ischia
another isle in the Bay of Naples that gets less airtime (at least among Brits)
You'd be forgiven for not having heard of Ischia
the volcanic island is home to over 100 thermal springs that have countless healing properties and make it a popular wellness destination for those in the know
combined with its stunning selection of beaches
picturesque villages and dramatic historical sites make it the perfect place to reset your mind
But you'd better make the trip soon, word is slowly getting out about the magic of Ischia, thanks in part to the 2018 HBO series My Brilliant Friend
based on Elena Ferrante's best-selling novel in which it features
There's a high speed ferry that takes about an hour and slow ferry that takes an hour and a half
If you're eager to arrive early on the first day of your holiday
the stunning views across the Tyrrhenian Sea
You'll also catch a glimpse of the colourful harbour of Procida
The island is very well served by buses that run frequently and into the early hours
But definitely hire a boat to explore the magical island for yourself
The endless 'gram opportunities will make it totally worth it
are etched into a cliff slightly inland from the beach
Wander up through the gorge until you can hear the trickling sound of hot springs
A standard spa entrance will cost you €15 and involves a natural hot shower and sauna – surprisingly soothing in 30 degree heat – followed by a 20-minute dip in a private preserved roman bath
Treat yourself to a healing lymphatic drainage massage or mud treatment to round things off
Once you’re feeling suitably rejuvenated catch a water taxi to the small harbour at Sant’Angelo and settle down for drinks at the waterfront as you admire views of the volcanic rock it overlooks
Tickets cost €20 and include entrance to the enchanting gardens
For something traditional, everyone will direct you to Bracconiere to sample Ischia’s most famous dish, coniglio all’Ischitana, or rabbit stew. Located 480m above sea level in Serrara Fontana, it's a bit awkward to get to and will involve a taxi, but worth it. Call in advance, their Facebook page is best for contact details
Continue on to Via Roma which is abuzz until late for more bars, a spot of shopping and gelato. Locals will tell you to head to Ristorante Pizzeria da Umberto for delicious pizza and pasta dishes with exceptional service in a no frills setting
Keep wandering until you reach the fairytale-like Aragonese Castle
Picnic at one of the stunning beaches by day - Citara and Chiaia are particularly nice - before heading for sundowners and admiring the brilliant pinks and oranges in the sky as the sun sets
The Pagoda Hotel, minutes from Ischia Porto, is a great mid-range option that makes a good base for exploring the island. With its own private rocky beach, pool, hot tubs and quality onsite restaurant, it definitely deserves more than its three-star rating. Rooms start at £140 per night. Visit the hotel's website for more info
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Home » How to get to » How to get to Procida: all the links
the fastest way is to take thehydrofoil or ferry from Naples or Pozzuoli
It is also possible to get to Procida from Ischia
At last, a direct connection has also been confirmed between Sorrento and Procida with three-weekly connections
The shipping company Alilauro Gru.so.n. has activated a direct connection service between Sorrento and Procida 3 times a week
there will be a run connecting the peninsular town with the Italian Capital of Culture 2021
€ 2.00 should be added to the rates as landing tax in Procida
To book or purchase your Sorrento Procida Hydrofoil ticket click here
from the ports of Calata di Massa and Molo Beverello
From Porta di Massa there are two shipping companies that run trips to Procida: the Medmar and the Caremar
The journey time is about 30 to 40 minutes
La Caremar also runs hydrofoil rides from Molo Beverello, along with the Snav
Ferries from the companies depart from Pozzuoli. Medmar, Caremar, Gestur and the crossing takes about 40 min
Some routes to the island of Ischia to and from Naples and Pozzuoli also call at Procida. La Snav and the Caremar arrive and depart from Casamicciola, while the Medmar from Ischia Porto
To view Medmar’s schedule, visit the site
To see Caremar’s schedule, visit
To see Snav’s schedule, visit the website
To see Gestur’s schedule, visit the website
Ticket prices for connections to Procida start from:
it is advisable to purchase tickets online in advance so as to avoid long lines and inconvenience before boarding
Please note that on the island of Procida it is forbidden to drive your own vehicles unless you are a resident of the island during peak season
both ports of Naples can be reached by cab or the regular bus,Alibus
which connects the airport directly with both ports
The Alibus ticket can be purchased on board and costs €5
From the Central Station in Piazza Garibaldi
The central station at Piazza Garibaldi is about 2 km from Molo Beverello and can be easily reached by cab or bus
the bus and streetcar station: the most convenient are streetcar number 1
The Unico Napoli bus/tram ticket costs €1.10 per ride
Now you just have to choose the best solution for you to go to Procida
procidasorrento
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and there’s a reason the wealthy flock here each summer in search of a glamorous seaside break
its islands are known for their spectacularly breath-taking coastlines
and with their assortment of opulent five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants
they are a haven for foodies and luxury seekers alike
It’s not just its picture-perfect scenery that draws in the visitors
with dramatic volcanoes and incredible historic ruins only adding to their Italian charm
you’ll find an exciting array of island destinations that are rich in culture and each have their own unique identity
taking the classic Italian allure to all new heights
The island of Capri is famed for its natural beauty
azure waters and stunning views from its hilltops
it’s a place to see and be seen – and with its world-class shopping and string of opulent fine dining eateries
it has an exquisitely exclusive feel about it that is guaranteed to keep you coming back for more
It’s no surprise that many celebrities choose to anchor their yachts here in Marina Grande – and you can join them, too. For the best yacht charter options, head to www.yachtic.com
The island has two harbours; Marina Piccola and Marina Grande
both of which are worth a visit for some fresh seafood or a swim in the crystal-clear waters
Other points of interest not to be missed include the Belvedere of Tragara – a high panoramic promenade
lined with luxury villas – plus the picture-perfect ‘faraglioni’ – large crags of rocks that protrude upwards from the sea
The small town of Anacapri is favoured by the locals and is a great place to try some more authentic Caprese cuisine
Vibrant, beautiful and a bucket-list must, Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean
distinguished culture that sets it apart from the mainland
making it easily one of Italy’s most seductive destinations
Head to Costa Smeralda for the best in A-list glamour
you’ll find some of the most luxurious accommodation choices and beautiful beaches the island has to offer
The water here is a shimmering turquoise that just begs visitors to dive straight in
and its beaches are long strips of golden sand you won’t be able to resist
lesser-known towns the island has to offer to explore ancient Roman ruins and soak up the medieval charm
Other points of interest to add to your Sardinia itinerary include the archaeological site of Tharros
the stunning Costa Verde and the Dunes of Piscinas
and Gola di Gorrupu – the largest canyon in Europe
Known for its spectacular landscapes and natural thermal springs, Ischia is perhaps a little less visited than some of Italy’s most famous islands
making this pretty volcanic nation a great choice for a quieter luxury getaway
it’s surrounded by the azure waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea
with its main city – also named Ischia – divided between the charming Ischia Ponte
where you’ll find an array of sophisticated bars
The picturesque town of Forio makes for a great base for visitors to Ischia
and is a haven of fine dining eateries and spectacular eateries promises a luxurious experience
Other sights you won’t want to miss include the beautiful fishing village of Sant’Angelo and the Poseidon Gardens in the bay of Citara
Thanks to its proximity to Capri, it’s another great place to charter a yacht, and here you’ll find some of the best options that yacht charter in Italy has to offer
The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily is a fusion of remarkable architecture
ancient history and that all-important natural beauty
and is arguably one of the most culturally rich islands in all of Europe
The vibrant and Arabian-flavoured city of Palermo is a must visit
while the historic city of Syracuse is essential for history lovers
The imposing volcano of Mount Etna – the highest in Europe – is also worth seeing in real life
Food and drink buffs will be spoilt for choice in Sicily; its decadent cuisine is a fusion of distinguished aromas and flavours
the luxurious hotels and rooftop bars are a given – champagne at sunset
there’s no need to head all the way to the Caribbean
Italy’s islands offer the perfect mix of culture
So why not head off on a late summer break this year and enjoy some of these islands
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28 JAN 2022BookmarkPretty Ischia has many of the same perks as Capri
but is easier to get to (Image: Getty)With winter in full swing in England
many Londoners are understandably dreaming of a warmer weather and more tropical climates
pretty hillside settlements and incredible food scene
the beautiful Italian island of Capri sits squarely at the top of many travel lists
one thing that puts people off about the island is the often sky-high prices for hotels
READ MORE: The beautiful island often named Europe's best that isn't in France, Italy, Spain or Greece
is that Capri actually has a nearby sister island that’s just as gorgeous and it’s not only less of a trek to get to but also less crowded and more affordable
Ischia is a small yet magical volcanic island off the coast of Naples that can be reached by ferry
eat and drink thanks to the wealth of amazing restaurants
historic sites and pretty streets made for wandering on offer
a boat trip from the mainland to Ischia takes just 50 minutes as opposed to the two hours to Capri
making it even more accessible for Londoners looking to get away with minimal fuss
quintessentially Mediterranean towns including Forio
Each of these towns has its own personality
even in the main town you won’t find it overrun with tourists as Capri can be - the hidden gem island is a favourite among Italians precisely because it’s still authentic and not overcrowded with international visitors
You can find lots of picture perfect historic buildings such as the medieval Aragonese Castle
or 18th century Palazzo dell’Orologio houses
For those interested in learning more about Ischia’s fishing traditions
The island’s abundance of fresh fish and seafood also ensures you won’t miss out in terms of tasty food
Ristorante De Bellezza and Gardenia Mare both come especially highly recommended by Tripadvisor users and are ideal if you want your lunch or dinner with a side of gorgeous seaside views
If you’re keen to try some authentic local cuisine
Coniglio all’Ischitana is a rustic pasta dish made with wild rabbit that’s a speciality of Ischia - find it served at hillside eatery Bracconiere
READ MORE: Beautiful French island with a fairytale Disney castle known as 'Wonder of the Western World'
There’s also some additional things you can do on Ischia that wouldn’t be possible on Capri, such as soaking in the natural hot springs at Cavascura or visiting the world’s oldest spa at Nitrodi thermal water park
Unlike its smaller sibling which only has rocky beaches
you can also spend the day at glorious sandy beaches when in Ischia
while San Montao is a quieter option that’s hidden away between Forio and Lacco Ameno
Ischia is actually easier to get to than Capri
it’s largely accessible by sea so you’ll need to fly to Naples and then get a boat
The good news for Londoners is there’s easy direct flights from both Heathrow and Gatwick airports
British Airways operates a flight from London Heathrow that takes only 2hrs 40mins
You can also fly from Gatwick to Naples on EasyJet (2hrs 40mins)
you can hop on a ferry to Ischia and be there in as little as 50 minutes
More information on ferry options here
Is there a story you think we should be covering? If so, please emailwhatson@mylondon.newsor at tilly.alexander@reachplc.com
Last Updated on 8th July 2024 by Sophie Nadeau
A volcanic paradise bursting with hidden treasures
Ischia is famed for its thermal hot springs
picturesque scenery and traditional Italian ambience
this small island is a great escape to that of its alternative the glitzy and glamorous island of Capri
Here’s your guide to the best things to do in Ischia
as well as top tips and what to know before you go
Ischia is a town that lies in the Tyrrhenian Sea
Considered as part of the Metropolitan city of Naples
it’s in the Campania region of Southern Italy
The biggest city on the island is Ischia and has a population of approximately 18,000 residents
I would say you need at least three days to fully enjoy everything that this hidden gem of Italy has to offer. If you want to go for a longer and less fast paced retreat, you’ll want to set aside five days. For more inspiration to help plan your trip, be sure to check out our suggested Ischia itinerary
One of the best things to do on Ischia is simply to sit back and relax in the slower pace of island life
it’s the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of busy modern life
especially when you get away from the port area and into the inner parts of the island
If you’re visiting Ischia via its ferry
then chances are that the port will be the first slice of the island that you step foot on
The main shopping portion of the port is Corso Vittoria Colonna
where you can pick up all kinds of souvenirs and go shopping
This is also the busiest corner of the island
Abundant with restaurants that line the waterfront
as well as trendy bars and clubs to sit at while sipping a Campari spritz as you enjoy the stunning views
Built upon it’s own small tidal island
just a bridge away from the rest of Ischia lies its medieval castle
Steeped in history which dates as far back as the 5th-century BCE
it has been occupied by and lived through centuries upon centuries of different civilisations
Today it’s known as the Aragonese Castle of Ischia
a name that originates from the very dynasty that influenced expanded and fortified the castle
as well as had influence on the island as it appears today
be sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting as the castle is atop a hefty load of stairs which you will have to clamber up
you’ll need at least an hour or two to explore the castle
(Also be sure to set aside around 20 minutes for the hike up)
To learn more in depth about the fascinating history of this castle before (or after) your visit, you can read our complete guide to visiting Castello Aragonese in Ischia
this historic tower stands overlooking both Ischia Ponte and Castello Aragonese as a true symbol of Ischia
Originally built in 1433 for greater defence of the small islet
the majestic tower-palace building rises high above the rocky coastline
known as Guevara’s Tower (from the name of the noble family that built it)
Michelangelo’s (for the strong links to the famous artist)
It’s said that Michelangelo lived in the tower
opposite to that of the Castello Argonese where his supposed muse and secret lover Vittoria Colonna (a noblewoman and poet) resided
It’s also believed that some of the frescoes in the tower are the work of the artist
visitors are invited to wander around the various exhibitions held
both inside and outside in the large garden
as well as one of the best viewpoints of Castello Argonese
The tower is completely free to visit and is open daily (closed on Monday’s)
Of course, one of the greatest joys of a visit to Italy is the chance to sample Italian cuisine
Some of the most famous local dishes are:
Another way to get to know the local foodie scene is to book a cooking class like this one
if you prefer for someone else to cook for you
some authentic dining experiences you can have on the island:
Another alcoholic drink to sample while visiting the island is
this traditional amaro style liqueur is herbal
bitter and sweet in flavour and is a staple in the Italian lifestyle
This is considered to be one of the most beautiful gardens in Italy
This lush green park is set onto the side of the cliff-face and offers views onto the port of Forio and the azure sea beyond
Created in the 1950s by a couple who lived there
these mesmerising gardens were officially open to the public in 1991
Boasting of gigantic ponds of water studded with even larger waterlilies
and even its own restaurant on site (where the food was okay
but there are better places to eat on the island)
You’ll need a couple of hours to truly enjoy all that the gardens have to offer! Learn more about the Mortella Gardens and how to visit them via our guide here
The Mortadella Garden isn’t the only botanical garden you can visit on the island
this small hidden treasure is home to one of the biggest and widest succulent collections in all of Europe
While wandering through this botanical paradise you can discover Giuseppe D’Ambra’s impressive collection
a lifetime of dedication and passion to cultivate a space where this oasis of colour could flourish
The gardens are situated on the road between Sant’Angelo and Forio
and you should allow up to 45 minutes to visit
There’s also a small cafe situated within
here we enjoyed a refreshing Caprese salad
One of the more populated towns on Ischia is Forio
Once there you can wander around the cobbled lanes and step inside the impressive Basilica Di Santa Maria Di Loreto
The main highlights of this Italian town is Chiesa del Soccorso
which sits a little bit outside of town and is also the point from which one of the most beautiful sunsets on the island can be enjoyed
If you’re the kind of traveller who enjoys heading into a museum to learn more about the history of a place
then you’re in the right place should you opt to visit Ischia
There are a number of museums on the island:
Unfortunately you can’t get all the way down to the lighthouse
but the views from nearby are pretty spectacular
Coined by locals as the ‘traffic light’ it is located on the tip of the westernmost point of the island and is the biggest lighthouse of the island
Originally built for purpose use by the Royal Navy
The lighthouse was left abandoned for many years
until in 2018 a German company bought it and turned it into a luxury hideaway resort for people to stay in
Ischia is pretty well known for its thermal pools, and there are a few ways you could go about visiting. You can visit a specific establishment which has turned the thermal pools into a business and get treatments, such as at Negombo or Centro Termale O’Vagnitiello, or you could alternatively head to some free hot springs such as the Baia di Sorgeto
this small village is situated within the commune of Serrara Fontana next to a giant rock and small stretch of beach
known to be the most picturesque corner of the island
Long held in the heart of artists thanks to its beauty
this quaint little fishing town is sure to leave you feeling inspired
Home to a lively and vibrant Piazzetta abundant with boutique style shops
art galleries and cosy cafes to sit in and soak up the tranquility
There’s also the small stretch of beach which makes for the perfect spot to soak up the sunshine as the sparkling blue waters lap up the shore
One of the more unusual rock formations on the island can be found located just off the coast of the island’s smallest town
this mushroom shaped geological form has come to be the sprit and symbol of the town
You can marvel at this strange and unique rock formation that’s been eroded by the salty sea and strong winds over time
from the beach that’s named after the rock
This is one of the greatest feats of engineering on Ischia
Originally built in the 16th century to remedy the shortage of water to the nearby village
this impressive monument is one of Ischia’s most historic sight’s
this well preserved structure is quite the spectacle to behold
You can find the aqueduct situated on the boundary between Barano and Ischia Ponte
Home to some of the most beautiful beaches
where crystal clear waters sparkle and stretches of beach await you
Here are the top suggestions of where to relax and go for a dip:
This hidden gem is nestled in the northwestern corner of Ischia
A sanctuary site where miracles are said to have occurred
this monument is in tribute to the Virgin Mary
For the more fitness loving travellers out there
one of the more challenging things to do on Ischia is to hike to the top of Mount Epomeo
the ascent of this mountain can be really steep in some sections
the true reward when you reach its summit is absolutely worth it
it offers breathtaking panoramic views of Ischia and its surrounding turquoise waters that glisten in the sunshine
If you can’t make it to the mountain summit
Thanks to the volcanic nature of the island
there’s no shortage of beautiful views all across Ischia
Just walking (or scootering) around the island
you’ll easily stumble across spots that offer picture perfect views
If you happen to be visiting Ischia at Easter
then you can see La Corsa dell’Angelo procession
A charming religious parade that takes place annually the Monday after Easter
The townspeople welcome tourists to join them as they carry statues of Jesus Christ
The Golden Angel and Saint John through the main street in Forio
One of the more memorable things you can do on your trip is see the island from a different angle and go on a boat tour
with the option to explore the hidden coves dotted around the island as well as taking a dip in the sea
Truly a magical and unique way to explore the island! Book your boat tour here.
Nearby the island Procida is a bit more polished than Ischia
A tiny vibrant island of ports and pastel colours
this islet is nestled almost half way in between Ischia and Capri
The best thing to do is simply wander around and soak up the charming ambience of the island
particularly in its picturesque marina area
home to Greek artefacts from the 16th century BCE which have been found across the island
Also the perfect spot for lounging on the beach
The boat ride to Procida is between 15-30 minutes
it’s definitely worth a trip over if you have the time
this can take anywhere from 50 minutes up to 1 hour 45 minutes depending on which ferry you choose
you’re sure to have quite the scenic journey
For high speed ferries be sure to take the ferry from Molo Beverello pier, and for the slower ferry you can take off from the Calata di Massa pier. Check ferry times as well as prices and how to book your ticket on their official website here.
Thanks to the fact that the island is quite small and compact
it only takes 30 to 40 minutes to get from one side of the island to the other driving
Parking can be a bit of an issue on the island and so if there’s one travel tip I would give you for Ischia
it would be to not rent a car on the island
if you want your own transportation on the island
then renting a scooter from one of the many rentals on the island is a fun way to get around- just be warned that it’s not for the faint of heart with all of the hairpin bends and Italian style of driving
We rented a scooter as we wanted to experience a few of the off the beaten path and hidden gems of Ischia during our long weekend stay
the bus service is fairly convenient and cheap at €1.60 per ticket
though be warned that the buses most definitely run on Italian time
Also be sure to validate your ticket as soon as you get on the bus
I recommend booking a hotel with a view of the castle
But no matter where you stay on the island (or on the small tidal island of the castle) you are sure to be amazed by the stunning scenery and serene ambience of this little pocket along the Italian coastline
Villa Livia: offering beautiful views of the castle and spacious rooms, this villa even has a gorgeous garden that makes for the perfect spot to soak up the sunshine! Check prices and availability here.
Il Monastero: a bit of a closer view of the castle…this is situated on the small tidal island and set within a 16th-century former monastery. It’s also conveniently a 12 minute walk from the beach, so you don’t have far to go to take a dip. Check prices and availability here.
Enjoyed reading about the best things to do in Ischia
When she’s not curled up on the sofa with her newest knitting project (and Rico her cat!) you can find her out and about on long walks
Currently living in the magical city of Edinburgh
she looks forward to travelling and seeing more of the world
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Last Updated on 11th March 2024 by Sophie Nadeau
Ischia is a magical island in the Bay of Naples where lush green hills give way to volcanic beaches and an aquamarine sea
One of the most interesting and relaxing things to do on the island for those who enjoy water based activities is to visit the hot thermal springs in the Baia di Sorgeto (the Bay of Sorgeto)
Here’s how to visit the Sorgeto hot springs
Sorgeto is an inlet with a rocky pebble beach that is surrounded on both sides by steep cliff faces
The shoreline is located 2 kilometres south of the small town of Panza and is only accessible by 300 steep steps
The sea cove itself is blessed with outdoor natural thermal waters which are akin to lying in a bathtub and are a reward in of itself for those who hike down the stairs to reach the inlet
islanders would have used the thermal waters closest to the shore to cook eggs and the like
The Baia di Sorgeto is located in southwest Ischia
There are regular water taxis (around €5 per person in each direction) that depart on a regular basis from the town
Another option is to get a bus to Panza and walk the couple of kilometres down to the shoreline
you can do what we did while visiting the island of Ischia and rent a scooter
which was definitely a mission in of itself (book car/ scooter hire in advance of your arrival on the island if possible!) but gave us the freedom and flexibility to see the island on our own terms
there are a few options when it comes to parking
There is a car park directly above the steps which reach the cove where you can park both cars and scooters
we parked in the car park which is part of the Da Gisella restaurant
we enjoyed drinks and snacks overlooking the sea before wandering down to bathe in the thermal waters
Please note that this is a free activity and so can get really busy
particularly during weekends and evenings in the summer months
Though the sunset provides a great ambiance thanks to the lively mood of other thermal pool goers
then it’s better to visit earlier in the day and midweek if possible
The water closest to the shoreline is very hot
You can see the vapour rising up from the water and so avoid touching the pools closest to the cliffs and shore
there are several walkways to use where you can walk a little further out to sea and into more agreeable water temperatures
you’ll need to bring water shoes as it is easy to cut yourself on the little rocks which are at the base of the water
It’s worth noting that this is not really a place for swimming
There are several establishments at the cove where you can buy snacks and drinks
there is the restaurant and beach café of La Sorgente
and even sells water shoes (for €10 per pair)
Sophie Nadeau is a full time travel writer and photographer focused on cultural experiences in Europe and beyond
When she's not chasing after the sunset (or cute dogs she sees on her travels) she can be found reading