creative flair and a strong environmental philosophy From humble trattorias helmed by tradition to Michelin-starred restaurants that push boundaries while prioritising locality and seasonality Taverna del Porto, TricaseDown south, along the coast of Salento, lies the Taverna del Porto, which effortlessly exceeds expectations. There are no unnecessary frills; rustic repurposed tables and chairs and paper placemats complete the rustic, beach-style interiors the setting is nothing short of charming; during the day an unbeatable backdrop for savouring fresh seafood (be sure to book a table on the first-floor terrace for the best views) Taverna del Porto is one of the first restaurants in Puglia to completely embrace contemporary style dishes from the home-baked bread basket through to the final mouthful of dessert (the lemon meringue tart is always a winner) including la Pizzetta del Marinaio (a puff-pastry pizzetta with Octopus) and Pane Pomodoro e Alici di Mario (toasted bread with tomato and anchovy) the daily specials are great but the Gran Fritto is one of the best in the region Address: Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 121, 73039 Tricase Porto LEWebsite: tavernadelporto.com casareccio (home-style) restaurant located in the small town of Ceglie Messapica where Giuseppe and his team deliver an incredibly simple but authentic experience while the cuisine is no short of deliciousness come pouring out of the kitchen with a generous selection of antipasti such as meatballs (one of their signatures) all daily specials are scribbled up on the blackboard Favourites include the orecchiette with sugo di braciola (a slow-cooked meaty tomato sauce) and arrosto misto (a mixed grill of local meats) the stewed donkey offers a taste of Puglia’s rustic and historical culinary traditions end the evening with a shot of homemade liqueur Address: Via Malta, 12, 72013 Ceglie Messapica BRWebsite: osteriadagiuseppe.it Polignano a MarePerched on the limestone cliffs of Polignano a Mare this one-of-a-kind restaurant has entered a new era under the ownership of Modesto Scagliusi At the helm of the culinary experience is Apulian-born chef Martino Ruggieri who earned two Michelin stars in under two years for his Parisian restaurant The menu (or three tasting menus) celebrates the flavours of Puglia while injecting some international notes and sharp techniques Ingredients are sourced with meticulous care and from local producers The setting still remains as breathtaking as ever with elegant tables set in a cave carved into the cliffs that overlook the deep blue Tyrrhenian sea This dining experience truly deserves a place on your bucket list Address: Via Narciso, 59, 70044 Polignano a Mare BAWebsite: grottapalazzese.it Sophie KnightSophie KnightTrattoria delle Ruote Martina FrancaThis place has existed in a time warp for decades the menu is exactly the same as it was fifty years ago eating is a ritual not to be rushed; tables are limited and diners are encouraged to take as long as they need What makes this place special is the farmhouse setting it exists within; tables fit snugly into a small trulli decorated with ancient tools The food is rustic much like the surroundings; you’ll eat artisanal salumi and formaggi from local farmers that taste of the Pugliese land followed by perfectly dense orecchiette and buoyant balls of milky mozzarella even the herbal liquors that linger on the table alongside the modest cheque Address: Strada Monticello, 1, 74015 Martina Franca TA, ItalyWebsite: facebook.com don’t miss the carpaccio di cavallino at Pein Assutt order the orecchiette con salsiccia e fungi the region’s signature ear-shaped pasta with hand cut sausage sheep cooked with vegetables and wild herbs in a clay pot Ceglie MessapicaEzio Pietro Maria D'onghiaCibus Ceglie MessapicaLocated in the undulating alleys of Ceglie Messapica’s historic centre Cibus sits in an ancient 15th-century convent with stone walls and lime-painted arches The restaurant was brought to life by a husband and wife duo who consider food not only as a source of pleasure but as a way to understand the culture and history of a destination; every dish shows a dedication to exploring different pairing possibilities using the exceptional produce on offer Cibus has been practising hyper-locality long before the term “zero-mile produce” was coined Sit under the vines with a bottle of Primitivo and make your way through the antipasti and primi and finish with a very sticky almond cookie filled with jam known as biscotto cegliese — best paired with a glass of homemade dessert wine Address: Via Chianche di Scarano, 7, 72013 Ceglie Messapica BR, ItalyWebsite: ristorantecibus.it The outside of Il Cortiletto is the epitome of a traditional Italian restaurant with its bright green chain curtains complimenting the bold ‘trattoria’ sign above the entrance Step inside and make your way towards the internal courtyard where bunches of dried tomatoes and chili peppers hang from the walls while a tangy The restaurant is quaint: with whitewashed walls and simple wooden furnishings that create an inviting and rustic setting While this family-led eatery celebrates traditional Apulian flavours Il Cortiletto is also committed to locally sourced ingredients many of which come straight from the lands of the Itria Valley though timeless classics like Orecchiette al Ragù remain a comforting staple Desserts are always delicious and homemade and to be savoured with a glass of sweet wine Address: V. Lecce, 91, 72015 Speziale BRWebsite: trattoriailcortiletto.it Castellana GrotteIf you head to Castellana for the underground caverns make a stop at Osteria Caroseno for dinner The dining room is exactly what you might expect from a local eatery rustic wooden tables dressed with white linens and handmade ceramics flecked with colour in typical Pugliese style Chef and owner Giovanni Longo spent time travelling and working as a chef before settling back into the town he grew up in to realise his dream of opening a neighbourhood restaurant that is rooted in tradition but flirts with innovation Caroseno is very much a family affair and Nonna Rosetta still plays a part Address: Via Santomagno, 18, 70013 Castellana Grotte BA, ItalyWebsite: ilcaroseno.com Put your trust in Cante’s five-course tasting menu (sensibly priced at €65) which showcases the best ingredients available on the day and pair it with a bottle of locally produced white wine from their thoughtfully put-together cellar Address: Via Cenobio Basiliano, 23, 73028 Otranto LE, ItalyWebsite: laltrobaffo.com RuffanoLocated at the entrance to Ruffano surrounded by old palazzi this family-run restaurant is undergoing a gastronomical renaissance led by Valentina Rizzo Having worked in the kitchen alongside her mother from the age of 15 before cultivating her skills abroad bringing a new energy to the food offering the menu is firmly anchored to regional traditions punctuated with just the right amount of international influence Farmacia dei Sani is a modern iteration of the traditional family-run restaurant everyone wants from a trip to Italy and Valentina has carved out her place as an innovator while respecting the traditions that Pugliese cuisine was built upon Don’t miss the homemade pappardelle with rabbit broth and rosemary oil Before you dive into the wine list try the homemade liquors; their lip-licking negroni is made from direct maceration of botanicals Address: Piazza del Popolo, 14, 73049 Ruffano LE, ItalyWebsite: farmaciadeisani.eu Sophie KnightLe Zie Trattoria, LecceDubbed ‘The Florence of the South’, Lecce leans into tradition like no other region of Puglia Locals take pride in their home-style cooking using locally foraged ingredients and wear their allegiance to centuries-old recipes like a badge of honour Le Zie is what you might imagine eating in a nonna’s dining room to be like; the walls are filled with random paintings and photos of celebrities the floor is a mosaic of patterned tiles that must have seen decades' worth of patrons and the tables are covered with chequered tablecloths owner Anna Carmela Perrone and her all-female team roll thimbles of orecchiette every day her mother’s sun-dried tomatoes and her aunt’s olive oil go hungry and make your way through the menu of classics and don’t be surprised if you’re sandwiched between foodies from New York as well as locals Address: Via Colonnello Archimede Costadura FasanoWith a light to non-existent digital footprint Ristorante da Silve feels like a well-kept secret among those in the know With Silve on the floor and his mother Maria in the kitchen taking a seat at their table is like becoming an extension of the family for an evening The small but carefully considered menu is loyal to Fasano tradition while adding its own creative slant; think zucchini flowers and peppery rocket with burrata over cavatelli and gelato made with extra virgin olive oil and honey all rounded off with a chilled glass of Silve’s homemade digestivo made with chamomile and black pepper The restaurant interior adds to the feeling of dining with a family albeit one with a taste for nice interiors making Ristorante da Silve fit nicely into the design-conscious aesthetic Puglia is fast becoming known for The coastal towns of Puglia are all about seafood and where better to feast on the fruits of the sea than sitting at the edge of the Adriatic This no-frills joint is all about the food the plastic chairs wedged into rocks and paper table settings only add to its brilliance helping you to slide into summer-y oblivion Expect to join a queue during high season and spend half an hour watching trays piled high with spiny sea urchins being ferried from kitchen to table Order a bottle of local wine and everything crudo Address: Strada Provinciale TorreCanne - Savelletri 72015, Savelletri BR, ItalyWebsite: facebook.com No trip to Puglia is complete without visiting a no-nonsense rosticceria This classic Italian butcher shop specialises in bombette de cisternino – rolls of pork filled with local cheese – but just about everything is delicious Rosticceria Antico Borgo di Menga Piero has remained unchanged for years: diners still choose their meat at the butcher’s counter and take a seat in the rustic canteen-style restaurant while the meat is grilled in a wood-fired oven so skip lunch and be prepared to indulge your inner carnivore as this place is popular among locals and tourists; it’s the kind of place you visit once Address: Via Tarantini, 9, 72014 Cisternino BR, ItalyWebsite: rosticceria-lanticoborgo.it Masseria Moroseta, OstuniMasseria Moroseta represents the evolution of Puglia from a rural farming region to a design-conscious holiday hangout This farmhouse-turned-guest house sits against a backdrop of ancient olive trees on the outskirts of Ostuni The land was once occupied by three different families who lived and worked together producing olive oil and working the land; today the small six-bedroom masseria serves a similar purpose centred around connecting guests to the land through food and design It’s impossible to have a conversation about food in Puglia without Chef Giorgia Goggi’s name cropping up Her main intention is to showcase the incredible abundance of produce on offer using ingredients cultivated in the Moroseta gardens (with the help of fishermen and farmers where needed) The ever-changing menu is always served on large communal tables to encourage chat among guests and there’s plenty to talk about: Giorgia plates up six or seven courses using Italian traditions as a starting point before introducing culinary influences from further afield; highlights included handmade cappelletti with duck and kimchi filling and beetroot sorbet with whipped lemon ganache Arrive an hour before dinner to enjoy a glass of natural wine from the likes of Cantina Giardino while wandering around the organic gardens stay a couple of nights and indulge in Giorgia’s equally as delicious breakfast and delicious pastries made by a Michelin star chef Address: Contrada Lamacavallo, s/n, 72017 Ostuni BR, ItalyWebsite: masseriamoroseta.it Book a one o'clock table for lunch and watch the restaurant come to life stirring with a satisfying Italian hum and the clattering of empty plates You’ll be thankful for booking when you watch the waiter pacing the restaurant with a biblical-sized reservation book and a phone permanently cradled to his ear This is a destination for seafood: cornucopian plates of crudo under ice a bruschetta of scarlet prawns atop chicory and salty sun-dried tomato cream or pots of scorpion fish and seafood guazzetto There’s a smartness to the restaurant and a slickness to the service that allows you to sink into your chair and watch what’s happening around you smug with the knowledge that you’re probably the only non-Italian in the vicinity Address: Via Cristoforo Colombo, 10/11, 70043 Monopoli BA, ItalyWebsite: lalocandasulporto.it you’ll find a humble wooden kiosk surrounded by a few tables and chairs shaded under a canopy of trees You’ll also find Vito Dicecca and his partner Roberta a fourth-generation cheesemaker and the duo behind the cheese bar in the forest Vito will guide you through a menu entirely dedicated to what he knows best: cheese Favourite dishes included a creamy sphere of butter made from three different types of milk served with hunks of Pane di Altamura (which has DOP status) a tomato and olive focaccia finished with a twist of stracciatella bruschetta of blue goat cheese with pickled onion and capers and a blue pecorino aged in Primitivo grapes that looks more like a wedding cake than cheese Every dish is served with an anecdote that takes you back to Vito’s childhood in Altamura or tells of his travels across the globe to India Address: Foresta Mercadante, 70020 Cassano delle Murge BA, ItalyWebsite: vitodicecca.it sleek dining room in Lecce is the best place to experience the most exciting movements in Salento cuisine Chef Solaika Morocco – the region’s most revered upcoming chef – breathes new life into ancient recipes using the traditional flavours of her childhood as a starting point before intervening with intricate techniques and Solaika became the youngest Michelin-starred chef in Italy The ten-course tasting menu and wine pairing offer a strong sense of place a series of entrees each as tasty as the last Solaika’s signature Parmigiana which folds all the flavour of the cheese crust (everyone’s favourite) into a paper-thin veil of tomato then there’s the sweetbreads slicked with an orange glaze alongside raw shrimp Everything on the menu – including the wine – paints a picture of Salento while adding something fresh to the story and pushing Pugliese traditions into the future Primo is not the quaint nonna-helmed trattoria that many imagine when thinking of the South of Italy but to understand the region’s food properly you have to look to the future as well as the past Address: Via 47 Reggimento Fanteria, 7, 73100 Lecce LE, ItalyWebite: primorestaurant.it Andrea MaliziaLe StanzieIt’s difficult to put the magic of Le Stanzie into words It’s the kind of place that’s fit for folklore with row upon row of chillies hanging from the ceiling slow-burning fireplaces carved into stone walls and a labyrinth of dining rooms lit by candlelight The magic of Le Stanzie is so striking that everyone seems to talk in hushed voices so as to preserve the atmosphere – the occasional sound of a phone jolting you back to the 21st century After the fire next to your table has been lit and wine has been ordered what follows is a typical Masseria-style feast of vegetables cooked in clay pots followed by generous bowls of horse meat ragu Nearly everything that arrives on the table has been plucked from the farm surrounding the sixteenth-century farmhouse: its orchards Address: SP362 Km 32.900 Supersano - Cutrofiano, 73040 Supersano LE, ItalyWebsite: lestanzie.com ItalyChevron PugliaChevron Nice. What’s the crowd like? Travelers tend to flock to Puglia for its beaches and charming seaside towns, but Castello di Ugento draws the more refined and stylish portion of that set. You'll see lots of couples on a romantic getaway, and travelers in their 30s, 40s, and 50s, for whom food and dining is a crucial element of any vacation. If you had to award a trophy to a member of the staff, who would you award a trophy to and what did they do to earn it?Hats off to the owners, who live on-site and amble over to the main building to make espresso for their guests each morning. What else shouldn't be missed?The restaurant has been covered, but deserves emphasis: eat there! One wing of the castle is an art museum. The fragrant gardens, which are immaculately groomed, deserve your time and attention. You're not here for bells-and-whistles amenities, you're here to take in the surroundings and dive into la dolce vita. Bottom line: worth it, and why?You're in a luxury castle in Puglia, between the Ionian and Adriatic seas, where you can savor great food, wine, and art. Living like an Italian royal for your stay is worth every penny. up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen’s bible and muse We understand that time is the greatest luxury which is why Condé Nast Traveler mines its network of experts and influencers so that you never waste a meal or a hotel stay wherever you are in the world What the well-dressed Terrier will wear: incoming students and their parents shop at their own private scarlet-and-white-themed emporium in the GSU lobby Friday Pioneering Research from Boston University