Are these canned Italian tomatoes worth the hype—and the heftier price tag
European Commission. Geographical indications and quality schemes explained.
San Marzano tomatoes are prized for their sweet taste and strong robust flavor
They have just the right amount of acidity
Their association with traditional farming in Italy conjures romantic images of agrarian serenity
and certain recipes list them specifically by name
There are entire brands of tomatoes that use the San Marzano name
and others that proudly proclaim to be authentic San Marzano tomatoes
There's a lot of hype — and a lot of confusion — around these exceptional tomatoes
Let's break down everything you need to know about San Marzano tomatoes
A San Marzano tomato is a specific variety of plum tomato that has been bred over the years for packaging and long shelf life
Well-known varieties of plum tomato include the Big Mama
Like other plum tomatoes, the fruit of a San Marzano is oblong and contains only two seed compartments. They are red and their appearance is quite similar to Roma tomatoes, but San Marzano tomatoes are thinner and more pointed than Romas
San Marzano tomatoes also have thicker walls
All plum tomatoes share the quality of fewer seeds than a typical tomato
Fewer seeds mean San Marzanos have a thicker
which makes them an exceptional choice for tomato sauce
sweeter flavor than their closely-related Roma cousins
so many chefs consider them a must-have ingredient for which there is simply no substitute
San Marzano tomatoes are grown in a small area in the Campania region of southern Italy between Naples and Salerno
This agricultural area known as Agro Nocerino-Sarnese is located in the Sarno River valley near Mount Vesuvius
The tomatoes themselves derive their name from the city of San Marzano sul Sarno
one of 41 towns located within the growing region
Many varieties of tomato have been grown in Campania ever since tomatoes were first imported from the New World into Italy
But the growing conditions in Agro Nocerino-Sarnese are considered particularly ideal for these special San Marzanos
The ideal growing temperature for San Marzanos is between 50 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit
summer high temperatures average about 83 degrees and rarely exceed 95
also has abundant water sources and a consistent level of humidity
Sarno Valley's proximity to Mount Vesuvius is responsible for its mineral-rich volcanic soils lush with phosphorous and potassium
These fertile volcanic soils are said to produce sweeter
and soil: these factors combine to make Agro Nocerino-Sarnese the perfect place to grow San Marzanos
It's little wonder the tomatoes from this region have earned a DOP designation
Many other types of tomatoes are cultivated throughout Italy and are popular canned exports
Some of the best-known varieties include cherry tomatoes
Each type of tomato has a slightly different taste and consistency
the pomodorini is a variety of very sweet cherry tomato that has a bright
while datterini cherry tomatoes are bold and sweet
Pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio is a sweet cherry tomato also grown in the volcanic soils near Naples
These are frequently sundried to concentrate their intense aroma and sweetness
Costoluto Fiorentino beefsteaks are known for being juicy and slightly more acidic
Each of these tomatoes has its own unique characteristics and flavor profiles
while all San Marzano tomatoes are Italian
Non-DOP San Marzanos grown outside of the designated region are sold in the United States
As the variety has become more and more popular
demand for San Marzano tomatoes has skyrocketed
To capitalize on the ever-growing consumption levels
some companies now cultivate San Marzano tomato plants outside of the designated San Marzano growing region
It's the same tomato plant simply grown elsewhere
These may be labeled San Marzano-style tomatoes
but they won't have the DOP label certifying their specific origins
Keep in mind that just because it's the same plant does not mean it will taste exactly the same as the DOP San Marzanos
Growing conditions matter and subtle differences in the climate or soil content have a direct influence on the flavor of any plant product
That doesn't necessarily mean non-DOP San Marzano tomatoes are inherently inferior
but they're certainly going to taste different than the real deal
If you're not concerned about the DOP designation
you can grow the San Marzano tomato cultivar from seeds in your home garden
Seeds are widely available for purchase — but again
since they're grown outside of the Agro Nocerino-Sarnese they aren't considered true San Marzano tomatoes
the plants are the very same as the highly-acclaimed ones grown in Italy
and nothing beats the freshness of a tomato from your own garden
The original variety is known as Heirloom 'San Marzano' are sometimes called 'San Marzano 2' or 'San Marzano 3.' There are also several hybrids that have been developed specifically to grow in other conditions outside of the San Marzano region
select a site that gets six to eight hours of full sun per day
They also need rich soil similar to the fertile volcanic earth found in the Sarno River Valley
They also need to be fed with a low-nitrogen fertilizer and given plenty of water
but not so much water that the soil becomes soggy or waterlogged
but if you choose to plant San Marzano seeds at home
around 3 months later you'll have a lovely crop of delicious
Many of the tomatoes labeled San Marzanos in the U.S. are not real San Marzanos. The DOP is a European Union law, so the rules around the DOP label and San Marzano name are not as strict in the U.S. In fact, only about 5 percent of the San Marzano tomatoes sold in the U.S. are the real deal
So how can you distinguish real San Marzanos from the fakes
Step one is to look for the yellow and red DOP seal with the words Denominazione d'Origine Protetta on the can
You may also find an IGP — Indicazione Geografica Protetta (indication of geographical protection) — label on Italian tomatoes
This certification is legitimate but less strict than the DOP certification
It traces a food product to its geographical origin during at least one phase of its production
whereas DOP tracks all phases of production
there are some unscrupulous companies out there that wrongly apply the DOP seal to non-DOP San Marzanos
or even use the San Marzano name on other tomato varieties
but you can't rely on that alone since some companies in the U.S
put a fake DOP label on tomatoes exported from Italy
Authentic cans must say "Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese Nocerino" on them and they will have the DOP seal and a Consorzio San Marzano certification number on the bottom of the can
In addition to regulation around the geographic origin of San Marzano tomatoes
the DOP certification enforces rules about the growing conditions
The San Marzano Tomato Protection Consortium of the Agro Sarnese Nocerino mandates that the fruit must be harvested exclusively by hand between July 30 and September 30
It is forbidden to use any artificial means of ripening the fruit
so the individual tomatoes must be picked in several stages as they ripen on the vine
San Marzanos can only be harvested seasonally during that short window each year
The tomatoes ripen throughout the growing season (not all at once) so they must be harvested individually by hand
Highly trained workers pick the tomatoes one at a time as they reach peak ripeness
The regulations also seek to protect against overfarming
specifying that the maximum yield is 80 tons per hectare
and a labor-intensive harvest all contribute to San Marzano tomatoes' hefty price tag
Tomatoes are so wholesome and naturally delicious
and the San Marzano attitude is not to interfere with them any more than you have to
They are left very close to their natural state
San Marzano tomatoes are "The only variety that is not damaged by processing
San Marzanos can have no preservatives or filler ingredients — only salt and optional fresh basil leaves
This is another way to check the veracity of a can's DOP claim
you can bet they are not legitimate DOP San Marzano tomatoes
The light touch in their processing means San Marzano tomatoes arrive in the can still as fresh-tasting
and flavorful as if they were just harvested
The San Marzano Tomato Protection Consortium also mandates that tomatoes be processed in one of two ways: whole peeled tomatoes
or peeled tomatoes in fillets (cut in half with the inner ribs removed)
There are zero other options for a DOP-compliant San Marzano tomato
If the canned tomatoes you're purchasing are pureed
If the tomatoes you're purchasing are not peeled
since the two processing options are whole peeled or peeled fillets
Since San Marzanos are often used in sauces
leaving them whole means you can crush them into your saucepan as you're cooking to release even more of their savory juices
Selling them whole or filleted also means these tender fruits hold their shape during storage
San Marzanos emerge from the can with their sense of tomato-ness intact
Neopolitan cuisine has a longstanding history with tomatoes
Neoplitans were among the first Europeans to embrace the culinary possibilities of the tomato
At a time when many other cultures feared the tomato or believed it to be poisonous
Neopolitan chef Antonio Latini published the earliest recipe for tomato sauce in 1694
and tomatoes spread from Naples to the rest of Italy
The relationship between Naples and the tomato — and the San Marzano tomato in particular — has continued throughout history. In 1889, the Neopolitan pizza was invented using local tomatoes, basil, and cheese. Today, Neapolitan pizza (Pizza Napoletana) is a UNESCO Cultural Heritage food. The most classic example of a Neopolitan pizza is the Margherita pizza
which the Italian Standardization Body and the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana specifies that the only tomatoes acceptable to use in a Neopolitan pizza are Pomodorino Vesuviano and — you guessed it — San Marzanos
and see how these tomatoes enhance the experience
For any dish that screams "tomato," San Marzanos are a sure bet
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"It is indeed a good commercial moment for fresh white onions from the Nocerino-Sarnese area
Demand is high and quotations are also satisfactory as we manage to obtain prices that are twice as high as those of spring onions
and three times higher than those of dried onions," reports Raffaele Rosa
there is no demand for them on the Italian market
although the trend on the foreign market is much better
especially from France and Germany because the Egyptian product
which is the main competitor for the Italian product
we are shipping 20% of fine spring onions and 80% of bulb onions to France
while we are shipping around 80-90% per cent of fine spring onions and the remainder of the bulb onions to Germany."
GRG's core business is the processing and marketing of fennel
The latter are available from early February until early May
The company processes 10 tonnes of fresh white onions every day
"Fresh white onions from Nocerino-Sarnese are a niche product
They are not such not because there is little consumption
demand is high on both the Italian and foreign markets and from the H&R channel
It is rather the supply that is rather limited
Not all companies in our area are adequately equipped for processing
so much so that there are only two of us that do it in the Nocerino-Sarnese area."
The produce is sold either in 500-gram tubs
which are destined exclusively for the Italian big retail trade
and loose for domestic and foreign markets
"We have been including fresh white onions in our assortment for three years now
that is since we bought the machinery to process them."
For more information: GRG Ortofrutta SrlZ.I Taurana, Lot 25,84010 San Marzano sul Sarno (SA) - Italy+39 333 6427273[email protected]www.grgortofrutta.it
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With the start of the dredging and cleaning of the Bottaro and Casadodici canals
the first priority actions among those envisaged in the Great Sarno River Project start in the municipality of Scafati
A symbol according to the President of the Campania Region
who intervened to witness the start of the works after there were nothing but maps and not even a design for years
“Now we are reclaiming the Bottaro canal – said De Luca – then we will continue with other interventions in the area of Sarno in Striano and castel San Gorgio
We are working to complete the sewage network and sewers.” In Scafati in particular
the construction of the sewerage network and the works are underway
Significant intervention for the city of Scafati for which
an urban regeneration program has been financed to improve the city's social services
A relationship of institutional collaboration that overcomes ideological and party barriers
as underlined by President De Luca and the mayor of Scafati
financed by European funds (€ 715 987.23 POR FESR 2014/2020)
is to restore the original hydraulic sections of the two canals along their route
which crosses the urban centre of Scafati by removing approximately 10 000 m3 of sediment and waste (classified as non-hazardous) and to improve hygiene and health conditions by removing the waste accumulated over the years with the elimination of odours
In addition to the works in the Scafati canals
which took place some 30 years after the last extraordinary maintenance work (in 1991)
there are three other urgent interventions aimed at reducing the widespread flooding phenomena in the Sarno river basin
during the Rio Sguazzatorio’ in the municipality of San Marzano sul Sarno
the restoration of the hydraulic functionality of the Valesana absorption tank in Campomanfoli in the municipality of Castel San Giorgio (Sa) and the hydraulic reclamation of the Lavorate plain in the municipality of Sarno
And since there is no official body that oversees this process
Taste further reveals that some companies won't even hide that the tomatoes aren't San Marzano and will add that note in the fine print on the nutritional label on the back of the can
what happens when you can't distinguish whether your tomatoes are legitimate or not
Taste says that official San Marzano tomatoes only come whole or in fillets
and canned — so if you see diced or crushed San Marzanos
Food & Wine cites how authentic San Marzano tomatoes will probably cost you a "pretty penny."
Apart from reading the label's fine print carefully, evaluating the price, and looking for the style of the tomatoes, there are two more tell-tale items you can look for to ensure you're buying real San Marzano tomatoes. According to Food & Wine
cans of real San Marzano tomatoes will have two very specific labels on them that cannot be forged or manipulated: a D.O.P
seal and a Consorzio San Marzano certification number
These may both appear as a banner around the top of the can or might be stamped somewhere toward the bottom of the can
D.O.P. stands for Denominazione d'Origine Protetta which means "Protected Designation of Origin" (via Eataly). This seal and designation is organized and controlled by the European Union and serves as proof that the product that bears its designation is authentic (via La Cucina Italiana)
the product must come from the correct origins and have the proper production and manufacturing standards to be awarded the label
Many wines, cheeses, and other products from specific European countries and regions use this system as well to protect what is marketed as their products. Just like only wine from the Champagne region of France can be called "champagne," only San Marzano tomatoes with a D.O.P
seal can be totally trusted as the real thing
Now that you know what to look for — seeking out San Marzano tomatoes that feature a D.O.P. seal and a Consorzio San Marzano number — you should know about the best places to shop to find the real tomatoes. While you can purchase cans online with retailers like Gustiamo or even Eataly
both of which are known to sell quality Italian foods
Whether you need San Marzanos right away for a recipe or you've been duped in the past and like to see what you're buying face-to-face
there are brick-and-mortar stores you can visit to find what you need
Though it may seem surprising, Trader Joe's has been stocking more D.O.P.-certified products over the past few years and is worth checking out
You might even find D.O.P.-backed San Marzano tomatoes at your go-to supermarket
then you should try shopping at an Italian specialty store or even an international market to get the most authentic options.