You’ll meet all sorts of interesting characters from fashion-forward shopkeepers to local grandmothers You’ll browse through the history of the city through all the minutiae and pieces of clothing that have been left behind and perhaps even find something perfect for you although it might be an incomplete listing you’ll never know until you take a walk outside what you’ll find in Venice Campo dei Frari and Riva degli Schiavoni towards the Giardini di Biennale are all places where markets appear You can find really great pieces like embroidered cowboy boots and denim jackets from the 70s They’ve also got a large collection of vintage swimsuits so you can swim out on the Lido in style This thrift shop is located in the side of the San Martino church and you won’t find it any guidebooks or maps The store features big piles of cast-away clothing and shoes that cost next to nothing Even better is when the ladies start to play stylist bringing out shiny ruffled blazers in extravagant 70s styles Located next to the Miracoli church, this vintage shop is slightly more upscale It’s not only full of great brand-name finds but also pieces by young up-and-coming designers and recycled fashions The owner comes from a fashion design background so she brings her unique eye to the curation Sign up to our newsletter to save up to $800 on our unique trips See privacy policy This eclectic shop is full of humor and loveliness decked out in all kinds of underwater fittings to look like a mermaid’s bazaar With items like 70s era lamps that look like disco hydrangeas to silvery jewelry inspired by the sea Dan Novac / Unsplash Italy Trips and Tours If you’re looking to make the most of your time in Italy whether that’s in stories old cities like Venice or along splendid coastlines up Alpine mountains or onto magical islands consider enlisting the expert insights of a local guide to help ensure your trip runs smoothly Guides & Tips A Guide to the 5 Most Dazzling Views in Catania Guides & Tips This Is Europe's Ultimate Road Trip See & Do The Best Hiking Trails in Italy Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in December Guides & Tips Beat the Crowds with these Alternative Summer Destinations See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in September Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in November See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in October See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in July See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Summer Art A Tour of Bernini's Masterpieces in Rome See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Autumn US: +1 (678) 967 4965 | UK: +44 (0)1630 35000 tripssupport@theculturetrip.com © Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd On my most recent trip to this wondrous city of canals I was delighted to discover that several wonderful new restaurants had opened to tease and tantalize my tastebuds I rented an apartment in the San Marco neighborhood in Venice and as soon as my bags were unpacked I grabbed the proverbial fork and headed out to explore the new culinary offerings that awaited Antipasti: Scallops on Zucchini with Cream and Toasted Almonds I must have walked by Tavernetta San Maurizio a dozen times and yet it didn’t register for some reason It was a bit late in the evening and upon entering I discovered the place was buzzing with activity more like a best friend’s home than a public restaurant I was quickly seated in the adjoining main dining room to discover a full house I immediately ordered a crisp chilled Soave but before looking at the menu I glanced around at the surrounding tables to see what diners had ordered and to my immediate right was a gorgeous dish of scallops The woman saw me glancing and waited to catch my eye as she smiled and nodded her head I smiled back and ordered it as an antipasti the scallops on zucchini cream and toasted almonds The dish was as delicious as it was beautiful The zucchini cream was vibrant in color and yet subtle enough in taste to highlight the seared scallops beautifully And the almonds offered an element of texture For an entree I ordered their pappardelle with duck ragù The restaurant-made pappardelle melted in my mouth and the duck ragù had this amazingly intense flavor I asked the waiter how the chef created this and he said “We slowly simmer the duck to tenderize and bring out its true essence.” Dinner was so fantastic, I tried to make a reservation for the following night, which was a Tuesday. However, that was their day off. I was flying out of Venice onWednesday so I vowed, on my next trip to make reservations ahead of time and most likely I’ll dine there more than once. Calle Zaguri, 2619. Tel. +39-349-293-5708. tavernettasanmaurizio.eatbu.com/ The Author Enjoying Cuttle Fish Ink at Oniga (Photo by Arthur Wooten) make reservations for Ristoteca Oniga because it’s very popular and glass ornaments hanging almost haphazardly from the ceiling and walls I was ready to settle in for a terrific meal Oniga prides itself in their search for the freshest and most sustainable ingredients they can find I decided on two items I’ve never had before First up as an appetizer was their fried squid with glasswort and balsamic vinegar Glasswort is an edible succulent that grows plentifully in Venice’s salt marsh areas And when it is deep fried with the calamari it has a nutty and salty flavor with a wonderful crunch The drizzling of balsamic is the perfect counter point for the saltiness As a main course I ordered their spaghetti with cuttlefish in black ink. If you’ve never tried this dish, the ink infuses the pasta with a subtle brininess, almost an umami-like flavor. It’s all much less intimidating than the visuals of the dish or the black tongue you will exhibit for the rest of the evening. Dorsoduro 2852 Campo San Barnaba. +39-041-522-4410. www.oniga.it/ Pages: 1 2 3 Arthur Wooten is an award-winning playwright and novelist who prior to writing for PASSPORT magazine was the humorist for both reFRESH Magazine out of London and DNA based in Australia. Passport Magazine has always been a resource to guide, inspire and encourage LGBTQ travelers and their friends to discover deeper, richer and more fulfilling experiences at home and around the world through compelling story-telling online, in print, with video and through live events. © 2025 Passport Magazine — All Rights Reserved — NYC USA SARRE, Italy—Anyone who has lived in Italy, and has visited its many wine producers, knows that Italians love being idiosyncratic, or at least playing at it. So I was not in the least disturbed when I contacted winegrower Michel Vallet—the owner, winemaker and dreamer of Feudo di San Maurizio in the village of Sarre in Italy’s alpine Valle d’Aosta region hard by the Swiss border—and found yet another such artist of Italian play-acting. First, I sent him an e-mail. Niente (nothing). After a week’s silence, I sent another. Again, nothing. Finally, I telephoned. I introduced myself (in Italian), saying that I was an American wine writer for a publication called Wine Spectator, that I had tasted his wines in San Francisco and liked them very much, and that I would like to visit him and see his vineyards. And by the way, I had sent two e-mails, but received no reply. Had Signore Vallet not received them? “I don’t like wine writers,” he replied. “And I get so many e-mails that I don’t bother to look at them. I don’t have the time.” This was said with a certain mock ferocity, which allowed me to laugh. “Surely you know that we wine writers are the center of the world,” I said. Now it was his turn to laugh. As I knew it would, the faux idiosyncrasy melted—at least a bit, anyway—and he allowed that, yes, I could come to visit. “I’m thinking either Wednesday or Thursday, whichever is better for you,” I proposed. “It doesn’t matter when,” he replied. “I’m here all the time. You call me one day before you want to arrive, and tell me what time, and I’ll be here.” With that, he hung up. As I knew would be the case, in person Michel Vallet, 48, is all charm and affability. Far from idiosyncratic, he is instead more an exemplar of someone who is “crazy on the side of the angels.” “I have 10 hectares [24.7 acres] of vines,” he says. After a pause, he then adds, “In 44 different vineyards.” He lets the arithmetic of that sink in. “As you can see,” he says, waving his arm to emphasize the alpine sweep of the steep, terraced vineyards surrounding his village, “none of these vineyards is very big. I have so many different plots, all of them tiny, that sometimes during the growing season I actually forget some of them while making my rounds.” Just what possesses Mr. Vallet to pursue his dream is not easily, if at all, understandable—unless you love wine, of course. A native of Sarre (“I have cousins everywhere here”), he does not come from a winegrowing family. So not only did he not inherit any vineyards, he knew nothing about making wine, either. “I’ve owned three bars here in Sarre for 20 years,” he says. “At first I thought, ‘I’ll make some wine to sell in my bars.’” He laughs while remembering his beginnings back in 1989. “I had just 700 square meters of vineyard.” How small is that? It’s a bit more than one-sixth of an acre. One good dinner party could consume all the wine produced from such a minute plot. But it’s not the winemaking that marks Mr. Vallet as someone special. Rather, it’s the grapes he painstakingly grows in all those many vineyard plots. “I wanted from the start to produce what we traditionally grew here,” he says. His visitor asks the oh-so-American question: Was there a market for such wines? The answer came in the form of an oh-so-Italian gesture that said “Who cares?” It’s one thing to grow the commercial likes of Cabernet, Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. But how about such indigenous varieties as Vuillermin, Fumin, Petit Rouge, Mayolet, Cornalin, Petite Arvine and Premetta? In fairness, these grape varieties were not unknown in his area, but they hardly spelled success either. Today in Valle d’Aosta they have become both more widely grown and sought. And in neighboring Switzerland, the red grape Cornalin and the white Petite Arvine are enjoying a renaissance. Mr. Vallet recently outbid others to lease a sought-after 8-hectare (19.7 acres) unplanted site surrounding a village castle. He is slowly planting vines in a portion of this leased property. And he continues to eye choice parcels elsewhere, owned, he says, by old people who resolutely refuse to sell. But he persists, happily so, regardless. "You never know," he says. Surveying the vineyards, it appears that the soil is untouched, with scrubby weeds and such growing between the rows. Is he biodynamic or organic? “I am nothing,” he replies. “I have no philosophy except to leave the vines alone. Probably I’d spray more, but I’m too cheap. For all 10 hectares I spend 1,800 euros for treatments. Others typically spend 600 to 800 euros on treatments for just 1 hectare.” Not surprisingly, given the rocky soil, lack of functioning irrigation and minimal spraying, vineyard yields are low. “I get 1 kilo to 1.5 kilos of grapes per vine.” That equals roughly one to two bottles of finished wine per vine. The wines emerging from this patchwork of 44 different vineyard plots at elevations of between 900 feet and 3,000 feet are revelatory. One is reminded, yet again, of the spectrum of worthy grape varieties that have been crowded out by a relative handful of heavily marketed, and thus reassuringly familiar, commercial varieties. You know which those are, of course. But then you taste a red wine such as the 2011 Vuillermin from Feudo di San Maurizio, and you find yourself thinking “This is like a premier cru red Burgundy,” and you realize just what we’ve been missing. Mayolet, another indigenous variety, elicits a similar reaction. A medium-weight red, the 2012 and a barrel sample of the 2014 deliver an enchanting berryish scent that reminds this taster of mulberries. More important, it has real finesse and a mouthwatering savoriness that makes Mayolet one of those high flavor impact wines that makes some other red wines seem ponderous and bullying. Arguably, the prize red is called Torrette, which is an authorized Valle d’Aosta brand name for a red wine blend rather than a grape variety. It must, by law, be a minimum of 70 percent Petit Rouge. The balance traditionally is composed of the red grape Fumin, which is what Mr. Vallet uses for his version of Torrette. Surprisingly dense and rich, Torrette is likely Val d’Aosta’s strongest red wine statement and is memorable in its detailed austerity and capacity to age. The Petit Rouge grape has a long history of production in the area. Decades ago I enjoyed another such Petit Rouge wine, called Chambave Rouge, from the now-gone producer Ezio Voyat. I bought a case of 1971 Chambave Rouge, and it was exquisite more than a decade after the vintage, so much so that I remember it quite vividly yet today. Are the various wines of Feudo di San Maurizio similarly memorable? I think they are. While not all are profound, they all are rewarding to drink. His prices in the U.S. are far from excessive, ranging between $20 and $50 (Torrette is his most expensive wine). Above all, when you sample these wines you are reminded not only of what we’ve been missing, but also of why dreamers such as Mr. Vallet are so vital. A look at a new wine from the reigning Wine of the Year producer In Bordeaux, winemakers in the vanguard have implemented changes to make wines of focus and … Some creative "solutions" from the land of creativity Potentially crippling tariffs on European wines have been pushed back, but the trade wars … Identifying the taste and aroma of TCA is different for everyone Digging into the terroir of the world’s southernmost winery and vineyard I woke up pining for a coffee and headed to the hotel restaurant overlooking the canal. Mother nature has bestowed on us multiple seasons within a span of three days, and this morning feels like mid winter. Perhaps partially in denial, I took my Americano on the terrace. There was only one other brave soul out there and we shared a polite nod in solidarity. Hauser & Wirth held a book launch for Mark Bradford, who uses his platform to draw attention to a local nonprofit improving Venice prisons After milling about the Biennale for several hours, I headed to the Art Basel Venice cocktail party in the Paradiso restaurant, hosted by Art Basel director Noah Horowitz and my friend Irene Kim, the fair's head of VIP relations. With aperol spritzes flowing I said a quick hi to Princess Alia Al-Senussi, an advisor for Art Basel. Choppy water and ominous clouds make for a dramatic commute around Venice A sneak peak of Almine Rech’s Ewa Juszkiewicz exhibition reception at Palazzo Cavanis A terracotta and brick floor led to the Palazzo’s flowering central garden, where sleekly dressed waiters served wine and canapes. I perused the show, Locks with Leaves and Swelling Buds and—after a blustery and productive day—headed back to my hotel, where they had left me a cheeky bowl of dark chocolates and berries. blog17 April 2024Venice diary day 1: Pimms, the Pinault Collection and thunderous conversation Our diarist’s first couple of days in La Serenissima gave her a chance to soak up the glamour synonymous with the city as well as catch up with some art-world friends news18 April 2024Nicolas Berggruen opens contemporary art space in Venice palazzoIt is the largest contemporary art venue to open in the city since the launch of François Pinault’s Punta della Dogana 15 years ago Do you want to discover the latest news and recipes of the most renowned chefs and restaurants in the world La nostra società utilizza inoltre cookie funzionali per registrare informazioni sulle scelte dell’utente e per consentire una personalizzazione del Sito; ad esempio Questi cookie possono essere installati dalla nostra società o da Terze parti In caso di disabilitazione di questi cookie la qualità e l’esperienza di navigazione potrebbe non essere soddisfacente Questi cookie sono installati da social media per consentire la condivisione dei contenuti del presente Sito Essi sono in grado di monitorare la navigazione compiuta anche in altri siti e creano un profilo dell’utente sulla base dei suoi interessi Ciò potrebbe avere un impatto sul contenuto e messaggi visualizzati sugli altri siti visitati non sarà possibile utilizzare o visualizzare questi strumenti di condivisione per l’installazione e l’uso di tali cookie occorre il consenso dell’utente Per maggiori informazioni consulta la pagna cookies policy On January 18, Times of Malta published an article about what could be the greatest flood in the history of Earth I am glad that scientific proof exists as I had already indicated the possibility many months ago and it is included in a long novel that although deposited at the National Archives I hinted at the possibility of the isthmus of Gibraltar collapsing and the inrush of the Atlantic caused the flood that carried Noah’s Ark towards the east where eventually it landed on Mount Ararat A fresco by Aurelio Luini depicting Noah’s Ark at the San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore church with many kinds of animals boarding the wooden ship A detailed account exists in Genesis as written by Moses but there is also a certain amount of physical evidence by the cliffs on the western side of many lands in the Mediterranean What caused the Gibraltar isthmus to open up rather suddenly is now pure conjuncture but it is the most logical explanation The most probable indications are that the ark was built on the Maltese islands probably in the Nadur/Xagħra area in what is now Gozo What I do not agree with are certain comments that the Mediterranean was completely dry it states that some boats used to sail in the area the number of major rivers that flow into the Mediterranean kept a steady supply of water for record purposes and historical records please register for free or log in to your account As the pair's curly-haired Lagotto dogs Bianca and Luna dart off into the undergrowth tumbling over each other in their quivering search for that elusive scent who first took him out looking for prized white tartufi in the woods of Le Langhe These days truffle hunting is an almost exclusively male preserve it was mostly the women who went out looking for mushrooms and truffles while the men were at work white truffles that today command hundreds of euros at Alba’s annual international truffle fair would be thrown into a minestrone ‘to give it a bit more flavour’ No other part of the Italian countryside has so many in such a small area And southern Piedmont is finally getting there on the accommodation front including two big openings in 2021: the Alpine-chic Casa di Langa and Nordelaia a boutique stay in a coolly converted farmhouse with few really persuasive places to stay) The jumping-off point for the Langhe and Roero wine regions is the market town of Alba. Its pugnacious skyline bristles with medieval towers, but at ground level it’s all boutiques, wine bars and delis. Nearby Bra – another of those neat Piedmontese towns that somehow manages to transmit flowery charm and a nose for business in equal measure – is the headquarters of the Slow Food movement which was founded here in the 1980s to defend the local culinary culture Ceretto asked colour-obsessed American artist Sol LeWitt and British artist David Tremlett to turn Cappella del Barolo a wayside chapel they owned next to their La Morra vineyards this joyful chromatic dance is now such an Instagram star that the council has been forced to ban weekend private traffic on the narrow gravel road that leads there ‘and yet when we unveiled it we got a lot of flak from the locals.’ More Ceretto-commissioned art is on view at the winery’s three-Michelin-starred Piazza Duomo restaurant in the centre of Alba where chef Enrico Crippa’s dishes are almost overshadowed by the pink frescoed walls with birdcage motifs by Francesco Clemente who describes himself as ‘a sculptor who paints walls’ has left his mark on three other former religious buildings in the Langhe and Monferrato wine zones These include the church of Beata Maria Vergine del Carmine its exterior now a freeform play of wine-dark reds which organises one or two multi-artist shows each year spreads around an interconnected group of village houses one of which is a B&B and artists’ residence featuring the owner’s collection of Arte Povera pieces from the 1960s and 70s Zunino stresses that they are not ‘importing culture’ so much as reviving it in an area dotted with ancient chapels and churches Southern Piedmont has opened up plenty in the last couple of decades – to art, to gastronomy, to the stranieri who have begun buying up holiday villas and farmhouses in the area like the hazelnut that is the key ingredient to Nutella If Tuscany’s wine regions are proud but gregarious Piedmont’s are reserved and marked by tribal and family loyalties that go back to less prosperous times He’s one of the few outsiders to have gained entry into the world of Barolo wine-making A restaurateur from Denver with a passion for Nebbiolo (the grape variety that is the sole component of Barolo and Barbaresco) he started visiting Piedmont in 1995 and moved here 11 years ago determined to break into the local wine scene ‘I knocked on a lot of doors,’ he tells me one of the pioneering ‘Barolo Boys’ who in the 1980s and 90s convinced the world that the region’s wines could compete with those of Burgundy or Bordeaux told Manley that if he came to work for him ‘Which was a bit like Keith Richards saying “Come round to my place and I’ll teach you to play guitar,”’ says Manley Manley has finally achieved what counts for acceptance round these parts ‘In the main piazza of Monforte there’s always a group of old guys sitting there ‘I said “Buongiorno” to them every day for 18 months and got no reaction one of them finally lifted his chin slightly in acknowledgement and I was like: “Yes!”’ Today His story is a neat metaphor for a serious part of Italy light-years from all those arm-waving the soul of southern Piedmont needs patience to unearth – but it’s all the more rewarding when you do New in 2021, converted farmhouse Nordelaia, in Cremolino, makes a good case for a stay in a relatively undiscovered part of southern Piedmont. Its peach-pink villa has been turned into a dozen crisp rooms with a hammam spa and glassy dining annexe, where British chef Charles Pearce works creative magic on simple dishes such as an umami-packed cheese and onion tart. Doubles from about £250; nordelaia.com If you can get beyond the bracing moss-green exterior, Gavi’s Locanda La Raia really channels the quirky appeal of the south-eastern, almost-in-Liguria corner of Piedmont. A revamped 12-bedroom coaching inn, it mixes retro-modern design with country comfort. Doubles from about £230; la-raia.it Piazza Duomo in Alba is the culinary Everest of this area, where wiry chef Enrico Crippa (he’s a keen cyclist) shuns à la carte in favour of guided menus whose dishes have names such as Journey through History. It’s a thrilling trip, based on produce that arrives from the restaurant’s own farm twice a day. Fixed-price menu from about £225 per person; piazzaduomoalba.it A no-nonsense regional trattoria with a pretty inner courtyard, Battaglino in Bra is an institution in the town that gave Slow Food to the world. Go for reliable classics such as mincemeat-stuffed agnolotti del plin – although it also offers at least a couple of daily vegan or vegetarian options. About £50 for two; ristorantebattaglino.it Not so much destination restaurant as destination trattoria, Da Fausto is a delightful, family-run place a few miles south of Acqui that serves a mix of good, seasonal Piedmontese and Ligurian specialities. It’s set in a restored stone farmhouse, with a terrace and four bright and simple bedrooms for those who want to linger. About £60 for two; relaisborgodelgallo.it It’s the setting as much as the Barolos that makes a tasting at Ceretto, one of Le Langhe’s most dynamic wineries, a must. Design and contemporary art riff engagingly off one another at this company HQ amid the vines. ceretto.com In complete contrast is Castello di Verduno, a historic, female-run winery offering a glimpse into an older world of Barolo production. This is at its most evocative in the ancient vaulted cellars beneath the Savoy-era castle, which also houses a charming old-school restaurant and guesthouse. cantinecastellodiverduno.it Specialising in white wines based on the Cortese grape, La Raia is a gorgeously landscaped biodynamic winery in Gavi. Visit for the twice-daily tastings and tours, which also take in part of the estate’s site-specific contemporary art collection. la-raia.it Keep scrolling for more images of Piedmont… Archive METALOCUS-Classics Print In 1960 won the prestigious International Chopin Piano Competition “That boy,” the revered pianist Arthur Rubinstein “can play the piano better than any of us.” Live recordings of Pollini playing Chopin in the competition back Rubinstein up Rubinstein’s quip has been used in seemingly every tribute to Maurizio Pollini since his death Saturday in Milan at 82 and pounced to sign Pollini to lucrative record deals and concerts But the keyboard wunderkind happened to have been an uncompromising perfectionist Pollini insisted on taking time to learn repertory and to mature Although Pollini did record Chopin’s First Piano Concerto upon accepting his prize he otherwise kept the sharks at bay for close to a decade Typical top soloists can give upward of 100 performances a year; Pollini kept it to a third that number He allowed time for music and for life to settle in Entertainment & Arts Conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen’s statement about the San Francisco Symphony board has crucial ramifications for arts organizations including the L.A Pollini does have his deniers; all gods necessarily do. Some found him cold, calculating, mechanical, even a little boring. He walked on stage purposefully, straight to the piano, barely acknowledging the audience, all business. He sat down and played. He didn’t wait to get in the mood. He didn’t wait for the audience to settle in. He didn’t show emotion. He wanted to be a conduit to the composer. Pollini was polite, elegant, erudite, somewhat shy and very private. He granted few interviews. I luckily got one for the Wall Street Journal when he came to New York in the spring of 1988 to perform all of Beethoven’s middle-period piano sonatas in three programs, over three weeks, at Carnegie Hall. I had casually remarked to a publicist for his record company that if she got the chance, she should ask Pollini whether he had any interest in playing Morton Feldman. She did, and Pollini told her he’d like to hear more and asked to bring me backstage after a concert. That meeting led to an interview at his hotel suite two days after his last Carnegie recital (it turns out, exactly 36 years before his death March 23). What the success of John Cage’s ‘Europeras 3 & 4’ in Detroit and Christian Wolff’s 90th-birthday celebration in New York reveal about this moment in music a leading Milanese architect and one of the founders of Gruppo 7 the collective that modernized Italian architecture Pollini told me he was influenced by his father’s rationalist architecture and even more so by his uncle Pollini also noted the importance of silence to his uncle For Pollini, music could have very specific meaning, or no meaning at all, he told me when we slipped outside in the chilly air so he could steal another smoke. It need be neither hot nor cold, neither loud nor silent. It was, first and foremost, architecture. How it is put together is music’s meaning. Pollini, then, saw it his responsibility not to tell you how to feel but to stimulate emotion so that those emotions can be yours. How Pollini did this was his true greatness. He used time. He revealed the composer’s vision through many sonic shapes and forms, be they the lyricism of a Schubert adagio, the rapture of a Chopin nocturne, the otherworldly drama of Beethoven’s Opus 111 sonata, the shard-like intricacies of Boulez’s Second Sonata. The fate of site-specific artworks by Maya Lin, Robert Irwin and Richard Serra remains in question, as does the public’s ability to see them. The last time I heard Pollini perform was at the Lucerne Festival in the summer of 2016. He had had a history of heart problems, and this time he came onstage seeming lost, walking around the piano before sitting down. The first half of the recital was a mix of Chopin pieces, which he played uncertainly. After intermission came the second book of Debussy’s preludes, more convincing but not the old Pollini. What he did retain was the tone and, to some extent, the purpose. When I brought up the question of whether he’d record Feldman, Pollini smiled and said maybe. He never did, but his late recordings of Debussy and Beethoven have their moments of the quiet, slow-moving, time-stopping quality of Feldman’s late piano scores. I hear them as not playing Feldman but playing for Feldman, which may not be all that different. Can it be that behind that ultra-rationalist exterior, what made Pollini a piano god was that, at the core, he was a mystic? Mark Swed has been the classical music critic of the Los Angeles Times since 1996. World & Nation Hollywood Inc. Television Music Subscribe for unlimited accessSite Map Name: Alessandro CollettaResidency track: Internal Medicine (IM) Year: PGY3Hometown: San Maurizio D’Opaglio originally from San Maurizio D’Opaglio He will be one of the chief residents in 2023-2024 Colletta to learn more about his clinical and research interests his involvement in the Diversity Action Council This interview has been edited for length and clarity.  What are your clinical and research interests?  I enjoy every discipline within internal medicine but I nurture a keen interest in hepatology I see this interdisciplinary specialty as a field with nuanced physiology and a diverse array of pathologies UMass Medical Center is one of the largest liver transplant centers in New England I have had the opportunity to witness firsthand the multidisciplinary nature of transplant hepatology and to appreciate the clinical and social complexity of the patient population we care for I would like to pursue my gastroenterology fellowship at a large transplant center and then specialize in transplant hepatology.    I have nourished my commitment to clinical and scientific research and also had the opportunity to join the IM Research Track This provided me with the mentorship of senior faculty and a core research curriculum which enabled me to efficiently structure my research in hepatology and gastroenterology Some of my research is centered on the multi-organ system manifestations and hemodynamics of decompensated liver disease I have also investigated the effect of hepatorenal syndrome on renal outcomes post-liver transplant in patients with acute alcohol-associated hepatitis compared to those with chronic liver disease I am exploring the interplay between heart and liver and the assessment of diastolic dysfunction via echocardiography to predict post-transplant outcomes.   I am a member and co-chair of the Diversity Action Council (DAC) which aims to create a safe and innovative environment for residents and faculty to engage in discussions involving race and social justice through teaching and learning We have launched a journal club committee focused on discussing research articles that are centered on the implications of structural racism on health disparities we have recently instituted a “Research Hub” that aims to give our residents the opportunity to conduct projects that actively address social barriers to equity in healthcare We hope that through these initiatives we can promote the core values of inclusivity What makes UMass a great place for your residency?  UMass is a welcoming institution that provides superb education to trainees Our institution is also at the forefront of innovative which makes UMass a stimulating and engaging environment our internal medicine residency is a special place to train Our program truly feels like a big family where high-quality education and mentorship are supplemented by inclusivity and continuous support.   I am a big soccer aficionado and passionately follow all the major leagues in Europe and reading poetry and philosophy.    Favorite thing to do in Worcester/Worcester area The outdoor activities are the absolute best and going to outdoor breweries and music festivals with friends which makes it perfect for a special evening outing or for enjoying a Celtics or Bruins game.  Privacy Statement Pollini's musical talent was evident from a young age He began studying piano at the Milan Conservatory when he was just nine years old and it quickly became clear that he was a prodigious talent Pollini's early career was marked by success in prestigious piano competitions The big one came in 1960 when he won the International Chopin Piano Competition in Warsaw a victory that launched his international career none other than Arthur Rubenstein declared that the 18-year-old Pollini played better than any of them One of the defining characteristics of Pollini's playing was his meticulous attention to detail His technique allowed him to tackle even the most demanding and complex pieces with apparent ease Pollini's performances were marked by a clarity of tone that captivated audiences and critics alike Pollini's repertoire is vast and diverse spanning works from the Baroque era to post-modern compositions He is renowned for his interpretations of Chopin and Debussy along with modernists such as Pierre Boulez and leftist composer Luigi Nono The criticism of Pollini was that his playing began and ended with technical prowess He may have been musically sensitive but his emotions were always in check he never “milked it.” Sometimes a piece needs a good milking but that was not Pollini’s way Pollini was a sought-after chamber musician and collaborative artist He performed with some of the world's leading orchestras and conductors and his recordings of the piano concertos of Beethoven and Schumann are considered among the best in the classical canon Pollini influenced the post-WWII Rossini renaissance as a conductor His performances as a conductor were insightful but brisk and literal when it came to tempo Pollini received numerous awards and accolades for his contributions to the world of classical music including the Grammy Award and the International Classical Music Award Pollini's recordings garnered critical acclaim and commercial success further cementing his status as a musical icon Maurizio Pollini was a pianist of unparalleled talent and ability He will remain a beloved figure in the world of classical music we lose one more connection to the old world Let us celebrate his remarkable career and enduring legacy Maurizio Patriciello has had police protection since a bombing near his church in Caivano Father Maurizio Patriciello is running late “I’m waiting for my bodyguards,” he says by text message He is neither a celebrity nor a politician but a parish priest in Caivano crime-ridden town on the outskirts of Naples He has been living under police protection ever since a bomb accompanied by the message “get out of our way” The threat was the Camorra’s response to Patriciello’s unrelenting battle against the mafia organisation’s illegal dumping of toxic waste across farmland in the Campania region of southern Italy he persevered with his mission: to fight crime and delinquency in a poor community that until last summer had long been neglected by the state at San Paolo Apostolo church and settles on a pew by the altar which is bedecked with a huge nativity scene where some of his parishioners have unwittingly become drug mules for the mafia Father Patriciello is shown to an armoured car parked in front of his church Photograph: Roberto Salomone/The Guardian“They get paid €50 to deliver a package and the response is always: ‘This way my children eat,’” he says “These abandoned districts – like the banlieues of Paris – are deliberately planned and wanted a closed-off society that creates its own language something bad did happen and the state took notice.” created in 1980 as what was intended to be a temporary home for thousands of people made homeless by the devastating Irpinia earthquake was put under the spotlight in August after the alleged repeated gang rapes of two girls aged nine and 11 The girls, who are cousins, were allegedly abused by a group of 15, 13 of them boys. Two of the suspects are the sons of alleged mafia bosses. Some of the alleged rapes took place in an abandoned sports complex in Parco Verde, an area in Caivano considered to be the most prominent in Europe for drug dealing coming to light only because videos of the rapes were shared online and eventually ended up with the police “The girls were not raped by a paedophile in his 50s; they were raped by a group of boys – children like themselves … and it did not happen just once: this violence occurred for months,” says Patriciello Knowing he was risking the wrath of the crime gangs ruling the ­neighbourhood the priest once again put his head over the parapet and wrote to Italy’s prime minister including an apartment containing an illegal puppy farm and cages filled with exotic animals The initiative marked the first stage of what Meloni described as her rightwing government’s quest to “make citizens feel the state’s presence” “Her quick response left me really stunned,” says Patriciello “I had met [the former prime ministers] Matteo Renzi and Giuseppe Conte but the difference with Meloni is that she really took the situation in hand.” Caivano has since become the government’s template for its pledge to rescue Italy’s long-deprived neighbourhoods Police numbers in the town have significantly increased with three safety commissioners tasked with overseeing the district’s rehabilitation The local council was dissolved and 18 people arrested for alleged mafia infiltration and corruption Work to revive the sports centre has begun after the government unlocked €30m (£25m) in funding making it easier to arrest and imprison children as young as 14 the leader of the centre-left opposition Democratic party has criticised the law for focusing too much on “repression” and not enough on prevention A used goods vendor decorating his street stand in Parco Verde Photograph: Roberto Salomone/The GuardianPatriciello is impressed by Meloni’s approach and apparent commitment but says much more needs to be done than putting more police on the streets “Not even a packet of drugs has been dealt as the streets are being tightly patrolled,” he says this alone is not enough to resolve the problems here – for example We have three social workers but need at least 20 for such a vast and complex place.” Another big issue blighting Caivano is the high number of cancer deaths. The town is in the heart of the so-called “Land of Fires”, the area in Campania where the mafia has dumped and burned toxic waste Italy’s higher health institute confirmed a link between the toxic waste and high cancer rates but the long-term effects on the community’s health have been stark “The last few funerals I have done have all been deaths from tumours Patriciello’s sister-in-law also died of cancer last year I did the funeral of a woman whose daughter was in the front pew wearing a headscarf I looked at the coffin and knew that within a year I would be doing her daughter’s funeral too such as the recent graduation of a sociology student – although the fact that this was news speaks volumes about the state of education locally “This would be normal for a girl in Milan or Venice it is worth a thousand times more than when it happens elsewhere.” It is common for the mafia to retreat when security is tightened in its strongholds with clans waiting for the state to shift its focus elsewhere before resuming business but Patriciello is hopeful that the events of recent months can usher in a brighter future “But it could also now be a guiding light for all marginalised societies in Italy.” This is the archive of The Observer up until 21/04/2025 The Observer is now owned and operated by Tortoise Media Maurizio’s in Encinitas is behind the new Il Posto A new Italian restaurant has moved into the former Fern Street home of Eclipse Chocolate. Il Posto is the second venture from the trio behind Maurizio’s Trattoria Italiana on South Coast Highway in Encinitas — Maurizio Carbone and a pair of lifelong friends that hail from Naples to offer affordable handmade pasta and wood-fired pizza a decorated pizza chef who’s earned various honors including an award for best traditional Napoletano pizza at the International Pizza Expo when the restaurant will be hosting giveaways including complimentary bites and desserts for all customers Il Posto serves a menu ranging from antipasti like mortadella and burrata with pistachio cream and Roman-style roasted artichokes to larger dishes such as cioppino and chicken marsala Its broad selection of pizzas includes classic Margherita along with a white pizza riff on spaghetti alla Nerano It also offers an extensive list of pasta shapes Both the pizza and pasta are available in gluten-free and vegan options This year’s must-see shows range from a Nordic Pavilion exploring transgender spaces to a compelling Lebanese project confronting the realities of ecocide Frieze returns to The Shed in May with more than 65 of the world’s leading contemporary art galleries and the acclaimed Focus section led by Lumi Tan The frieze team selects the international shows they’re most excited about during this year’s Biennale  Rebecca Ackroyd | ‘Mirror Stage’ | Fondaco Marcello Expanding on her recent solo exhibition ‘Period Drama’ at the Kestner Gesellschaft in Hanover Rebecca Ackroyd will produce a new body of work that transforms an old tobacco warehouse using fragmented narratives that play out on a theatre stage The title of the exhibition is taken from the pivotal moment in which a child begins to differentiate between itself and others – a key development according to Jacques Lacan Ackroyd’s fragmented figures and large-scale paintings will create literal and metaphorical spaces of self-reflection Oscillating between states of consciousness Ackroyd’s new work is likely to leave you with a dreamlike sensitivity that foreshadows the threat of awakening.  Mark Bradford | ‘Process Collettivo’ | Campo San Maurizio | 13 April – 5 May the American artist Mark Bradford partnered with the non-profit Rio Terà dei Pensieri to help create work opportunities for incarcerated people in two of Venice’s prisons from gardening to bag-making – the results of which have not ‘Process Collettivo’ concludes with the launch of a book about the project at a pop-up at Campo San Maurizio For the week of the Biennale’s opening (16–19 April visitors will have the opportunity to meet with Bradford and some of the participants in the programme to discuss the project and its outcomes All proceeds will benefit Rio Terà dei Pensier Willem De Kooning | ‘Willem De Kooning e L’Italia’ | Gallerie dell’Accademia di Venezia | 17 April – 15 September This major retrospective will span works created from the 1950s to the 1980s all inspired by De Kooning’s love of Italy Curators Gary Garrels and Mario Codognato take as their starting point two of De Kooning’s extended stays in Rome and Spoleto – first in 1959 and then again in 1969 – to trace the country’s influence across multiple bodies of the artist’s work Cy Twombly is usually most closely associated with Italy – he lived in Rome for most of his adult life – but this exhibition is slated to reveal De Kooning as another keen observer of a landscape that has captivated artists around the world for thousands of years Palazzo Franchetti | 20 April – 24 November This collective installation and ‘living archive’ will engage Portugal’s colonial history and legacies through the means of botany The garden will shift and adapt with the seasons during its 5-month run with plants and herbs grown in the pavilion being used for various purposes Creole gardens were known as ‘counter-plantations’ during the slave trade and were a way for the enslaved to retain a level of autonomy in growing food and medicinal herbs to be shared and used collectively The pavilion will address ancestral knowledge while simultaneously acknowledging significant anniversaries: the 50th anniversary of a military coup in Lisbon which led to the independence of African countries such as Angola and the centenary of Amílcar Cabral (1924–73) a former leader of Guinea-Bissau who was instrumental in various liberation struggles Jim Dine | ‘Dog on the Forge’ | Palazzo Rocca | 20 April – 21 July I’m reminded of the time when Jim Dine gave a demo for a printmaking class I was taking at university in Connecticut He showed students how to turn a piece of cardboard into an etching plate you would incise marks on the discarded sheet with a Dremel or simply rip layers of cardboard off with your hands then brush Elmer’s glue onto it to give it a slick You would then go about printing with it in the intaglio method and voila The demo left a long-lasting impression on me – I used this method repeatedly throughout college I equally became fascinated with Dine’s approach to material I have not had too many encounters with Dine’s practice in sculpture a medium that will take up a large section of his presentation in Venice Replete with Dine’s familiar leitmotifs – hearts Venuses and Pinocchios – the exhibition of new works will likely be a tour de force by an artist I deeply admire Yuan Goang-Ming | ‘Everyday War’ | Taiwanese Pavilion Palazzo delle Prigioni | 20 April – 24 November Everyday War (2024) is another powerful testament to artist Yuan Goang-Ming’s exploration of the home as a frontline battleground in a geopolitical war This is a recurring theme in his video work and it underscores the profound impact of global conflicts on our most intimate spaces I had the privilege of meeting the artist at his home studio outside of Taipei to see first-hand how he created this ambitious work The video is a universal allegory for the damaging anxiety caused by the spectre of invasion and the destruction it creates Vlatka Horvat | ‘By the Means at Hand’ | Croatian Pavilion I have spotted Instagram posts of packages of different shapes and sizes in the hands of various people in different cities along travel routes documented by airport codes such as LHR and JFK artist Vlatka Horvat aims to illustrate often informal methods of transporting objects from country to country by those living abroad (the photographs reminded me of the parcels my mother would receive in Ghana for her return to the UK addressed to another relative therefore avoiding substantial shipping costs) Horvat’s ‘By the Means at Hand’ will include drawings from over 200 artist friends transported to Venice via these informal exchanges and in return Horvat will produce works during her time in Venice to be sent via these same method of using suitcases belonging to friends and strangers alike.  Peter Hujar | ‘Portraits in Life and Death’ | Istituto Santa Maria della Pietà | 20 April – 24 November  Of all the collateral events presented at this year’s Venice Biennale I am perhaps most excited for Peter Hujar’s ‘Portraits in Life and Death’ which takes its title from his book of the same title The show will be the first time all the photographs reproduced in the book will be on display in Europe Organized by The Peter Hujar Foundation and curated by Grace Deveney of the Art Institute of Chicago the show will be a wonderful opportunity to see Hujar’s complete series of photographs of friends – artists John Waters and more – alongside his haunting pictures of the catacombs in Palermo Italy – a stellar meditation on the memento mori Pierre Huyghe | ‘Liminal’ | Palazzo Grassi – Punta della Dogana | 17 March – 24 November created in collaboration with curator Anne Stenne presents the French artist’s investigation into speculative fiction to conceive new ways of experiencing the world ‘Liminal’ promises a grand display of Huyghe’s latest works videos and sculptures from throughout his career Punta della Dogana transforms into a space ‘inhabited by both human and non-human creatures’ serving as a site for the creation of constantly evolving and hybridizing subjectivities Husain | ‘The Rooted Nomad’ | Magazzini del Sale | 18 April – 24 November After enjoying critical acclaim and success during the latter half of the 20th century Husain was forced to leave India in 2006 due to religious extremism arguably India’s most influential and well-known artist made a career of creating ethereal tableaux that often drew inspiration from religious iconography distilling it through a Western and secular lens fomented rage and jingoism as he later decided to live in exile in London until his death in 2011 ‘The Rooted Nomad’ will be the first immersive exhibition dedicated to the life and work of the artist The show will include a selection of paintings providing a full gestalt of his intimate and then estranged relationship with his beloved India Josèfa Ntjam | ‘swell of spæc(i)es’ | Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia | 20 April – 24 November If Josèfa Ntjam’s 2023 solo exhibition at Nicoletti Contemporary is any indication LAS Art Foundation’s collateral presentation of the artist’s work will leave audiences feeling as though they have entered the cavernous stomach of a galactic whale ‘swell of spæc(i)es’ will expand on the artist’s exploration of deep space and the deep sea filling the Accademia courtyard with jellyfish sound sculptures a cosmic video installation drawing on West African cosmogony and hybridized AI renders of fantastical marine creatures Julie Mehretu | ‘Ensemble’ | Palazzo Grassi | 17 March 2024 – 6 January I’m chafing at the bit to see Julie Mehretu’s ‘Ensemble’ at Palazzo Grassi which comprises more than 50 works by the artist – the largest display of Mehretu’s practice to date in continental Europe Organized by chief curator of the Pinault Foundation the show will also include works by some of the artist’s closest friends and contemporaries: Nairy Baghramian Billed as neither a monographic show nor a group exhibition ‘Ensemble’ – inspired in part by the French word meaning ‘together’ – presents a chorus of artists that will harmonize together around 25 years of Mehretu’s oeuvre ‘Nigeria Imaginary’ | Nigerian Pavilion Palazzo Canal | 20 April – 24 November  British Nigerian curator Aindrea Emelife has assembled a multigenerational group of artists to represent Nigerian contemporary art Yinka Shonibare and Fatimah Tuggar will explore looted Benin treasures The exhibition title is a celebration of a Nigeria that almost was and has yet to fully emerge Trevor Yeung | ‘Courtyard of Attachments’ | Campo della Tana | 20 April – 24 November Having just seen Trevor Yeung’s solo exhibition at Para Site in Hong Kong – a dimly-lit soft installation evoking the cruising sites in London’s Hampstead Heath – I’m excited for the artist’s presentation at this year’s Hong Kong collateral event Yeung’s presentation promises to explore ‘the relationships between humans and aquatic ecosystems’ The show will include some of Yeung’s fishless aquariums – for which the artist is perhaps best known – and other nautical arrangements that will not only allude to our current climate crisis but wax poetically on the humdrum of societal ennui Courtesy: the artist; LAS Art Foundation; Galerie Poggi abstraction and how art becomes a language of survival London is awash with exhibitions celebrating the past – what can figures like Leigh Bowery and Peter Hujar teach young artists today?  photographer and printer Gary Schneider reflects on his relationship with the legendary American photographer the award recognizes and mentors a formerly incarcerated artist From etiquette manuals to childhood memories the artist’s new works at Hauser & Wirth explore the paradoxes of control and chaos John Akomfrah bringing the rain to Venice and Stanley Stellar recalling the NY piers From dynamic performance and moving image to several major biennials four frieze editors discuss the year in art As the fair returns to Santa Monica in 2025 performances and initiatives from its first five editions From Monica Bonvicini’s sculptural representations of female agency to Phung-Tien Phan’s dinosaurs that prod at consumer culture, here’s what to see this Gallery Weekend Berlin From Christine Sun Kim’s explorations of American Sign Language to Ilê Sartuzi’s investigations into surveillance and museal security  From Rindon Johnson’s readymade mahogany clocks to Allison Katz’s obliquely symbolic paintings From Wakaliga Uganda’s gutsy geopolitical satire to Yuge Zhou’s exploration of urban living © FRIEZE 2025 Cookie Settings | Do Not Sell My Personal Information 2022Tom ParkerSave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products and listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors truffle hunting is an almost exclusively male preserve it was his grandmother who went out looking for mushrooms and truffles while his grandfather was at work white truffles that today command hundreds of euros at AlbaÆs autumn Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba would be thrown into a minestrone “to give it a bit more flavor.” but no less life-changing journey to work in the factories of Turin providing an upscale base for the swath of wine districts that stretches from Le Langhe to Gavi Roberta Ceretto’s grandfather Riccardo moved to Alba in the 1930s from a dirt-poor village in the high Langhe and found work with a local wine producer he soon set up his own business vinifying grapes that he bought from a variety of growers and uncle Marcello came on board in the 1960s that Ceretto—today one of the area’s leading producers—began investing in vineyards back in the days when Barolo was still sold in demijohns,” Roberta tells me “but it was the next generation that led the revolution.” We stand looking out over the vines planted around the company HQ from L’Acino (“The Grape”) a transparent domed tasting room that thrusts out from the hillside like a Bond villain’s lair the Ceretto family asked artists Sol LeWitt and artist David Tremlett to turn La Cappella del Barolo this joyful chromatic eruption is now an attraction for the global Instagram set “It has become a symbol of the territory,” Roberta says “and yet when we unveiled it we got a lot of flak from locals.” The quiet road approaching Ceretto Wineries Ravioli del plin with roasted sauce at Guido Ristorante More Ceretto-commissioned art is on view at the winery’s Piazza Duomo restaurant in the center of Alba where in 2007 Italian artist Francesco Clemente frescoed the main dining room of what has since become Piedmont’s only three-Michelin-star dining destination who describes himself as a sculptor who paints walls has left his mark on five other former religious buildings in the nearby Langhe and Monferrato wine zones These include the small church of Beata Maria Vergine del Carmine its exterior now a jazzy play of wine-dark reds in one of the remotest corners of the wooded Alta Langa art gallery Lunetta 11 occupies most of the buildings in Borgata Lunetta a beautifully unreconstructed rural hamlet Young co-directors Claudia Zunino and Francesco Pistoi live here with Pistoi’s art-dealer mother and the three remaining original inhabitants of what was once a thriving agricultural borgo which organizes one or two multi-artist shows each year one of which is a B&B and artists’ residence featuring Arte Povera pieces from Menzio’s collection Zunino stresses that the gallerists are not “importing culture” so much as reviving it in an area dotted with ancient chapels and churches that were made by and with the community Southern Piedmont has opened up plenty in the last couple of decades—to art to the stranieri who have begun buying up holiday villas and farmhouses in the area But like the hazelnut that is the key ingredient of Nutella the town has a shell that can be hard to crack If Tuscany’s wine regions are proud and gregarious A snug chill-out area at Relais San Maurizio in Santo Stefano Belbo It’s a challenge Alan Manley recognizes—and relishes He’s one of the few outsiders to have gained entry to the world of Barolo winemaking A restaurateur and wine buff who moved to Piedmont 11 years ago Manley has a passion for Nebbiolo (the grape variety that is the sole component of Barolo and Barbaresco) determined to understand the local wine scene and perhaps “I knocked on a lot of doors,” he tells me one of the pioneering “Barolo Boys” who in the 1980s and 1990s convinced the world that the region’s wines could compete with those of Burgundy or Bordeaux “Which was a bit like Keith Richards saying ‘Come round to my place and I’ll teach you to play guitar,’ ” Manley quips This was the very beginning of an adventure that would lead him Through a mix of perseverance and simply being seen around a lot Manley has finally achieved what counts for acceptance around these parts there’s always a group of old guys sitting there ‘Buongiorno’ to them every day for 18 months and got no reaction one of them finally lifted his chin slightly in acknowledgment ‘Yes!’” Today they even talk to him occasionally Manley’s story is a neat metaphor for a serious reserved part of Italy lightyears from all those arm-waving the soul of southern Piedmont needs patience to unearth—but it’s all the more rewarding when you do The earthen palette of a guest room at Nordelaia this new arrival feels a little like the prow of a huge ship about to set sail over the vineyards toward the snow-capped mountains that shimmer on the horizon a hint of eco-chic alpine design comes through in the 39 spacious guest rooms (doubles from $500) The mood is more jazzily urban in the panoramic Faùla restaurant seasonal riffs on the Piedmontese recipe book jostle for attention with the contemporary-art collection of the American owner Don’t miss out on a Piedmontese wine tasting with personable head sommelier Pier Francesco Molinari—if you’re new to the region La Morra: With their midcentury-modern design touches the 10 rooms of this stylish mini resort overlooking one of Barolo’s most celebrated vineyards make for a perfect Langhe base Many people stay here just to eat at Osteria Arborina a rising star with a militant “zero-kilometer” commitment to locally sourced ingredients Santo Stefano Belbo: When it opened in 2002 this 17th-century monastery conversion was Le Langhe’s first real high-end it’s still one of the most elegant bolt-holes in the area kept in contention by a magnificent rock-hewn spa If you’ve never tried the Piedmontese specialty vitello tonnato—wine-marinated veal in an anchovy-and-caper sauce—try it here first this boutique charmer with doubles from $230 makes a good case for a stay in a part of southern Piedmont that It’s housed in a peach-pink villa whose interiors have been engagingly restyled with old-meets-new verve by U.K alongside Genoese architect Valerio Tunesi The feeling that you’ve walked into a local art collector’s house party is enhanced by simpatico GM Alfonso Spinelli British chef Charles Pearce puts a creative spin on the local tradition upstairs at L’Orto with affordable prix-fixe menus featuring dishes like an umami-rich cheese-and-onion tart Gavi: If you can get beyond the bracing moss-green exterior (which—ahem—grows on you) coaching-inn makeover really channels the quirky appeal of the southeastern with its mix of retro-modern design and country-comfort doubles from $315 per night The elegant dining room of Guido Ristorante Duck with sour cherries and saffron at Guido Ristorante Tasting rooms with views at Ceretto Wineries Ceretto Wineries Alba: It’s the setting as much as the Barolos that makes a tasting at one of Le Langhe’s most dynamic wineries a must: a company HQ among the vines and contemporary art riff engagingly off one another Castello di Verduno, Verduno: This small female-run winery offers a glimpse into an older world of Barolo production at its most evocative in the ancient vaulted cellars beneath the Savoy-era castle which also houses a charming old-school restaurant and guesthouse La Raia, Gavi: Specializing in white wines based on the Cortese grape this gorgeously landscaped biodynamic winery organizes twice-daily tastings and tours which also include part of the estate’s site-specific contemporary-art collection This article appeared in the March 2022 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here. up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen’s bible and muse We understand that time is the greatest luxury which is why Condé Nast Traveler mines its network of experts and influencers so that you never waste a meal or a hotel stay wherever you are in the world Former San Remo winners Vincenzo Nibali and Maurizio Fondriest ride with Briton for last 10 kilometres and given the Briton a few ideas about how he can follow in their wheel tracks to triumph on the Via Roma on Saturday Having lost San Remo as a neo-pro in 1988 to double Tour de France winner Laurent Fignon, Fondriest then triumphed in the same race in 1993, while Nibali had a memorable solo victory in 2018. Pidcock himself has taken Olympic MTB titles as well as victories at Alpe d'Huez during the Tour and Strade Bianche and is coming into Milan-San Remo on the back of a string of early season victories and a sixth place overall in Tirreno-Adriatico.  Pidcock was in the thick of the action when Jasper Stuyven attacked at the foot of the Poggio after the descent and in 2024 he launched a late attack that brought him across to breakaway Matteo Sobrero (Red Bull-Bora-Hansgrohe) But his daring last-kilometre move was crushed by 2023 winner Mathieu van der Poel (Alpecin-Deceuninck) setting things up for a sprint triumph for the Dutchman's teammate Fondriest and Nibali were wearing two specially designed Q36.5-made jerseys commemorating their respective victories in San Remo when they joined Pidcock for the closing segment of La Primavera earlier this week "San Remo is the most technical of the Monuments," Nibali said afterwards You cannot allow yourself to decide in advance where you will attack "For example one year I had decided that I had to wait and only attack on the Poggio you need to be able to pay maximum attention at all times because things can change at a moment’s notice." As for what his advice to Pidcock would be Nibali said "Follow Van der Poel or [Tadej] Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates-XRG) Tom is the lesser favourite of the three and needs to attack after them." "When he follows their attacks he needs to try to be ever so slightly conservative in order to be able to attack them again It’s very hard but I managed to do it a few times in my career - on the descent at Il Lombardia at Sheffield in the [2014] Tour de France." "There are always just two roads to victory Either you are a sprinter who can hold on a bit on short climbs of about six minutes Or else you are an extremely explosive rider [Julian] Alaphilippe (Tudor ProCycling) Van der Poel or Tom Pidcock," Fondriest added "These are riders with a vicious change of pace and can treat the Poggio like a 500-600m uphill sprint To attack earlier than the Poggio you need very special weather conditions "Maybe there exists a last option which is only available to you if you are not amongst the favourites and that is to attack at the base of the Poggio after the descent Q36.5 are not the most powerful team in San Remo this year but Fondriest argued it was possible to win the Italian Monument without massive firepower to back you up "The race is always decided on the Poggio so all you need your team to do is get you to the front before the Poggio maybe you can set a very high rhythm both on the Cipressa and Poggio," he said "But in the end let’s say Pogačar attacks Van der Poel and Pidcock follow him and all Pogacar’s team has done is make the race for whoever has got the legs… So no you don’t need a strong team to win Sanremo." Fondriest said: "Being the lighter ride in terms of weight amongst the favourites what he certainly shouldn’t do is attack first on the Poggio and go over the Poggio first and try to do something on the descent… "But in general my advice to him would be: be the last to make your move do not attack before Van der Poel or Pogačar have attacked." Should Pidcock win he would be the first Briton to do so since Mark Cavendish in 2009 and after Tom Simpson in 1964 and Cavendish 15 years ago just the third in his country's history.  Alasdair FotheringhamSocial Links NavigationAlasdair Fotheringham has been reporting on cycling since 1991 He has covered every Tour de France since 1992 bar one as well as numerous other bike races of all shapes and sizes ranging from the Olympic Games in 2008 to the now sadly defunct Subida a Urkiola hill climb in Spain he has also written for The Independent,  The Guardian,  ProCycling you will then be prompted to enter your display name Stay up-to-date with exclusive events and content Scores of design lovers have descended upon Milan for the annual Design Week, anchored by the sprawling Salone del Mobile, which has spawned a legion of satellite installations across the fashionable Italian city that also means that the requisite hot spots are appropriately mobbed with visitors angling for a negroni For those in town who want to skip the crowds in favor of more secluded options Galerie reached out to seven top tastemakers who know the city intimately to get their recommendations on the best hidden gems They offer a wide variety of flavors and it’s really delicious—the quality is amazing It’s a must when in town if you love ice-cream It has a welcoming and international atmosphere The restaurant has a strong focus on sustainability using solely seasonal and local ingredients (from Lombardy) to create fresh and singular that cannot be found anywhere else in Milan The restaurant’s ambiance is elegant but welcoming with a very large rooftop overlooking the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele LuBar holds a dear place in my heart, especially since I’m good friends with the dynamic trio of co-founders: Lucilla, Lucrezia, and Ludovico. What they’ve achieved is so brilliant, and I find myself continually awed by the passion and drive of young entrepreneurs creating such ventures. LùBarino has refined and warming feel of Lubar Set within one of the liveliest and most picturesque squares in Milan (Piazza del Carmine) it has all the charm of Brera: the ideal spot to enjoy a friendly this is no ordinary bookstore; it is more similar to a sanctuary for bibliophiles with shelves adorned with antiquities specialized in the realm of art very dear to me due to my family’s proximity to the culture of that period Go up the stairs and immerse yourself in the timeless charm of this small chic hotel the suites are a hidden gem that truly deserves a stay He’s got the best eye in town and his prices are fair Raimondo was a total secret weapon for me when I was decorating my apartment in Milan © 2023 Hudson One Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy You don't have permission to access the page you requested What is this page?The website you are visiting is protected.For security reasons this page cannot be displayed Milan is an extraordinary city with a rich history Millions of arrivals take place every year and there is a reason why many gravitate to Milan as it is the home to numerous renowned art-works such as Madonna of the Book by Sandro Botticelli The Fourth Estate by Giuseppe Pellizza da Volpedo and Rondanini Pietà by Michelangelo but also to huge fashion legends such as Versace there is a plethora of options when comes to things to do in Milan making it the perfect trip for any traveller The city is also very much recognised as having some of the most accessible and comprehensive transport links in Italy which make travelling in and around solo and on others with loved ones but each visit feels like the first as there is always something new to experience See our guides to Italy's fashion capital below: head to San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore for an unexpectedly sufficient alternative The church's unassuming monotone facade reveals no trace of what’s inside: floor-to-ceiling 16th-century frescos from Lombard Renaissance painter Bernardino Luini and his contemporaries and the wall behind the altar is actually a partition separating the worship area from the nuns’ quarters walk through the entryway on the altar’s far left side to arrive at a larger space with more frescos Luini’s version of The Last Supper is painted just above the grille on the partition wall and the various alcoves depict religious and biblical scenes you’ll notice a couple of mythical equines boarding the vessel alongside the other animal couples Address: Corso Magenta, 15, 20123 Milano MIWebsite: touringclub.it straddles the Cinque Vie and the historic centre Its art collection includes works from Caravaggio while the library displays Leonardo Da Vinci’s Codex Atlanticus Milan’s fashion-centric Quadrilatero d’Oro or golden rectangle lined with high-end designer shops But there’s another four-sided quarter worth a stroll a discreet district that’s home to some beloved gems like the pink flamingos wandering about the garden of Villa Invernizzi (visible on Via Cappuccini) Pretty much every building carries itself with majesty and standouts include the eclectic Art Deco Palazzo Fidia on the corner of Via Melegari and Via Mozart and Palazzo Berri Meregalli a Gothic Art Nouveau building on the corner of Via Cappuccini and Via Vivaio The neighbourhood’s highlight is Villa Necchi Campiglio a 1930s mansion designed by Piero Portaluppi that warrants a spot on everyone’s Milan bucket list Cinephiles will recognise it from Luca Guadagnino’s I Am Love and Ridley Scott’s House of Gucci The design masterpiece is part of a network of four residences-turned-house museums as it’s much more enthralling than the audio guide Address: Via Mozart, 14, 20122 Milano MIWebsite: casemuseo.it It can be rather difficult to get hold of one of the 15-minute slots for viewing the much-acclaimed historic masterpiece but it's worth the effort if you are planning your trip to Milan far in advance The former Dominican convent which houses the mural There’s a wealth of ornate detailing to take in and Giovanni Donato’s Crucifixion is another impressive fresco to study too Address: Cenacolo Vinciano, Piazza di Santa Maria delle Grazie, 2, 20123, Milan, Italy At aperitivo hour (as well as on the weekends) you’ll find throngs of locals queuing for steaming favourites like baozi and dumplings As well as the miscellany of eateries representing various East and Southeast Asian cuisines – ranging from tea houses and dim sum parlours to street-food stalls – the Fabrica Del Vapore cultural centre offers a programme of contemporary art exhibitions Design lovers should also make their way to the neighbouring ADI Design Museum Address: 20154 Milan, Metropolitan City of Milan, Italy The artistic styles found across the many tombs and monuments range from contemporary to classical and include the work of lauded artists designers and architects such as Adolfo Wildt have been laid to rest here over the past 200 years A guided tour of the cemetery is recommended to unlock many remarkable individual histories many of which are interwoven with Italy’s immensely rich cultural history Address: Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale, 20154, Milan, Italy the area is also dotted with a number of five-star hotels showcasing the best of Milanese grandeur The third most expensive street in the world and other high-end shopping streets worth ambling through include Via della Spiga around this luxury goods mecca you can find some of Milan’s less well-known museum collections such as the fascinating displays of Etruscan artefacts at the Fondazione Rovati Address: 20121 Milan, Metropolitan City of Milan are two residential towers situated in the Porta Nuova district of Milan the concept behind the towers was to provide a home where both humans and trees live together Bosco Verticale can be viewed as a metropolitan reforestation or urban ecosystem as the pair give back to nature and the surrounding environment they have also become architectural marvels of the city and add to the many landmarks and structures to see whilst in Milan With thousands of trees and shrubs covering the 260 and 360-foot towers their luscious green facades deserve much admiration and are certainly worth viewing when visiting the city Also worth visiting is the surrounding Biblioteca degli Alberi (Library of Trees) the network of overlapping verdant grids is an impressive feat of botanical innovation The futuristic ten-hectare garden is home to hundreds of varieties of flora making it a local hotspot for exercising and relaxing alike Address: Via Gaetano de Castillia, 11, 20124Website: quimmo.it Address: 20121 Milan, Metropolitan City of Milan Terrazza Aperol is a modern bar with an elegant terrace offering great views of Duomo di Milano whilst overlooking the piazza With its central location and a few minutes walk from the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Terrazza Aperol is an ideal meeting point before and after a day of Milano shopping and sightseeing local dishes and delicious meals can be enjoyed there’s often a short queue to get in but it's worth the wait once you're inside and can soak up the view with a glass of Aperol Spritz Address: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121Website: ilmercatodelduomo.it The permanent venue is based in the south of Milan within a former gin distillery from 1910 – which makes an innovative and striking headquarters Plenty of incredible and bold contemporary works of art have been on show through Fondazione Prada with the institution taking a keen interest in specific areas like cinema Some artists who have exhibited their work for Fondazione Prada include Jeff Koons Address: L.go Isarco, 2, 20139Website: fondazioneprada.org Marchesi 1824 first originated in Via Santa Maria alla Porta and then later expanded to Via Monte Napoleone and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II with views overlooking the charming shopping gallery visitors can enjoy the elegant Milanese setting offering anything from coffee to cocktails sweet or savoury selections and even delicate chocolate treats packaged beautifully to take away upon departure Walk-ins are available but if anyone wishes for the highly desirable seats by the windows for the great views then making a reservation beforehand would be useful Address: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, In Galleria de Prada 20121Website: pasticceriamarchesi.com Milan City Council managed to hold onto a fundamental piece of the history of the city by converting a former Ansaldo factory into Mudec workshops and a range of exhibitions which change throughout the year Although the museum’s sleek and modern design is a work of art in itself here visitors can view various forms of art with an insight into different cultures.Getting here is straightforward by metro It takes roughly 25 minutes to Mudec from Duomo with the closest stations to the museum being Sant’Agostino and Porta Genova Address: Via Tortona, 56, 20144Website: mudec.it It was originally in Monza before moving to Palazzo dell’Arte in 1933 where it is now housed offering a rotation of exhibitions as well as permanent displays the museum held many exhibitions and then took a break of twenty years until starting again in 2016 Several hours can be spent taking in the fine arts and architecture of La Triennale before enjoying the grounds of Parco Sempione Walking to the museum from the centre of the city takes roughly around 20 minutes and makes a pleasant journey on foot filled with beautiful architecture and stores to admire Cadorna FN and Cadorna M1 M2 are the closest stations if you should choose to take the metro Address: Viale Emilio Alemagna, 6, 20121Website: triennale.org Its 135 spires can be viewed up close on the roof Address: Piazza del Duomo, Milan, Italy Named after the fourth-century bishop who became Milan's patron saint it runs the Duomo a close second as the city's most important church it is packed with history and artistic masterpieces including a solid-gold 12th-century altar: the saint's embalmed body is underneath it The church is a short walk from Sant'Ambrogio Metro station (Line 2) Address: The Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, Piazza Sant'Ambrogio 15, Milan, Italy Within the piazza is the Loggia degli Osii an ancient administrative building from the balcony of which the city fathers used to address the citizens Young and old alike amuse themselves in Palazzo della Ragione’s loggia by communicating via the whispering gallery’s seemingly magical acoustic effect The piazza is a few yards along on the left Address: Piazza dei Mercanti, Milan, Italy Built in the 14th century by the Visconti family the castle was converted into a cultural treasure-house around 1900 Its 12 museums and archives cover art from ancient times to the Renaissance with one dedicated to Michelangelo's incomplete Pietà Rondanini Address: Castello Sforzescoa, Piazza Castello, Milan, Italy An ambitious refurbishment in 2011 left the station much more pleasant to use and with many shops including an excellent Feltrinelli bookshop a further refurbishment saw a new dining destination added to the station’s west wing – Mercato Centrale the bustling labyrinth combines an urban grunge-chic aesthetic with a varied food offering including outposts from heavyweights of the Italian food scene such as Marco Bruni and Davide Longoni Address: Stazione Centrale, Piazza Duca d'Aosta 1, Milan, Italy glass and wrought iron that links piazza del Duomo with La Scala was built by a British firm and opened by King Vittorio Emanuele II in 1867 it has echoed to the tramp of 140 years of protest marches; today knots of locals can still be found loudly discussing the behaviour of the government in what is called 'the drawing-room of the Milanese' Address: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Piazza del Duomo, Milan, ItalyWebsite: yesmilano.it La Scala was inaugurated in its present form in 1778 and became a symbol of Italian resistance to Austrian rule in the 19th century A museum next door charts the theatre's rich history Address: La Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, Milan ItalyWebsite: teatroallascala.org This article was originally written by former contributing editor Peter Popham, and has since been updated It only took a few months at Rocca di Arignano where Ugo Alciati was a consultant for the relaunch of the restaurant Fabio Sgrò was the right chef at the right time having to cope with the departure of his Executive Chef Luca Zecchin the call from "an institution" like the Guido da Costigliole restaurant inside the Relais San Maurizio at first stuns and then sounds irresistible."In China I realized I knew nothing." Fabio Sgrò uncovers his cards right away and is not afraid to confide how much his interaction with Asian culture and with his majority Asian team dismantled his - now evaporated - know-it-all attitude and provoked a stream of self-awareness called by Umberto Bombana - no introduction needed - the owner of this and several other establishments across Asia.We chat while seated at a large round table for twelve From the ceiling hangs a spectacular installation by Valerio Berruti depictions of children watching and wondering Their vision of the world – in which wonder and discovery have not been put in the attic – seems to be the same as Chef Sgrò's who returns from the other world with his eyes opened wider than before."In Hong Kong if you start shouting or splashing around in the kitchen A chef I knew reprimanded a member of the brigade in front of everyone in a very heated tone...the next day and he had to take care of the whole lunch service himself When I happened to reprimand a brigade cook a little louder I quickly got my act together and realized that it is much better to talk face-to-face with each team member the important thing is always to give stimulation and confront each other so they give you 100 percent in the kitchen as well as respect."Fabio treasures these lessons Even more so with the employers that life currently has in store for him They asked only one thing of me: to keep the supplier for the filling of the historical plin the same I changed the portions of meat and the process of making them – marinating overnight before cooking – as well as the supplier of the vitello tonnato (a typical Piedmontese dish of thinly sliced roast veal topped with a tuna sauce) All these changes of a historic family dish they were overjoyed."Is this a new Piedmont influenced by marinating techniques and sauces that Fabio learned while in Hong Kong Mitsuru Konishi – currently the chef at Zest restaurant – worked for a lifetime in France but how would Konishi have done this." In those years Fabio would go to a Japanese restaurant to freely work and learn about a cuisine previously unknown to him."I worked for free in a traditional Japanese restaurant where you had to ask permission to enter for that you had to have their absolute trust it’s not like they even gave me the batter recipe I would see bubbles with oil that they kept taking out and putting in the refrigerator a few recipes they passed on to me."Fabio is on the first menu Leaving aside the rigor required to repurpose the "house" dishes everything else required pure creative thinking Fabio focuses on a few things but with a radical approach Everything he needs comes from Piedmont or just beyond for which he goes to nearby Liguria."Even for pigeons which gives us phenomenal products; I also get eels from him I buy meat here in Santo Stefano Belbo from Fantoni The culture of fermentation hovers in our kitchen but with 100% local raw material." The fermented part will be a minimal intervention on the plate so as not to risk the ingredient being cannibalized fermentation brings advantages from a flavor perspective making great assists for zero-salt proposals Such as turbot marinated in homemade soy and cooked with a Chinese barbecue sauce A dish that Fabio will soon include on the menu accompanied by fermented cauliflower.Simplicity is about the presentation of the courses I’m not searching for the wow effect at first glance but rather at first taste All the main courses will always be divided into two plates one for the leading main ingredient and the other for the side dish This minimalist choice surely calls for another concentration of taste as we experienced in the pigeon we will discuss in a moment Simplicity is also in his interpersonal approach.  According to the maxim and you shall receive” will help you move ahead you stop.Our conversation moves to Fabio’s philosophy of “all I know is that I don’t know.” It begins with the brigade who are all involved in thinking about the ingredients and reducing waste and continues with listening to the suppliers who suggested to him to use local goat instead of lamb for a dish he was creating Fabio gets early dibs on the best goats in the area He confides to us that he is bonding well with Fantoni resulting - he laughs - in annoyance at times Confrontation goes hand in hand with sustainability; in the sense that it generates a highly sustainable climate in the kitchen aim to create an extended team where understanding and support are maximum The dining room also lends itself to the entertainment of select dishes that are finished table-side."No one can be great without a united team that supports and endures with you Having the cooks experience front of house is useful in helping them understand the dynamics of service and after 30 min they still haven't ordered you don't need to huff but understand the dynamics Maybe they haven't read the menu yet because they are lingering in chit-chat with each other the waiters are taking the right amount of time to explain the dishes and it takes very little for clients to want to come back for more who pick up the phone and come back to us." Since it would be hypocritical to exclude that listening and confrontation weren’t a big part of the dishes’ conception "I no longer look at the name of the chefs to who they have become I am really sorry." For one of the new first courses on the menu Fabio exercised one of his fixations and challenged the commis in charge of the first courses: pil pil (a method of cooking cod that comes from the Basque Country) From there came the shared idea of cooking the pasta alla risotto in pil pil using raw cod carpaccio freshly marinated in oil and salt and closing with three powders made from pomegranate He did the same for a gyoza-like raviolo with a lean filling made from wild herbs gathered in the area topped with fermented onion powder and black truffle We did not taste it but would have liked to Fabio often goes around foraging in the surrounding area When he was still living with Chef Zecchin he had noticed long-stemmed flowers that looked like small sunflowers He started digging and found beautiful Jerusalem artichokes Fabio makes no secret of the fact that he wants to invest in Santo Stefano Belbo The preparation of soybeans is a savory indication of this planning which will be ready at the beginning of 2025 who passed me his mom's recipe that came from his grandma and instead of chili I put a raw bell pepper It will be a very different soy from what we are used to in sushi restaurants We witness a minimalist presentation: breast laid on a base made from the bones and then flavored with whipped butter and aged with rice koji The pigeon and chicken liver pate are served with flaky bread the breast is matured for ten days in beeswax that comes from a company in Sommarivo The rest of the menu speaks the language of happy local tradition: balls of vitello tonnato where the hills of the Langhe take your breath away to stop in the ancient cellars of a monastery that later became the Relais San Maurizio is to enter the frame of mind of a young chef without too much ambition but still has fire inside Guido Da CostiglioleLocalità San Maurizio, 39, Santo Stefano Belbo, ItaliaTel: 0141 844455Website Please enable JavaScript to view this page correctly He’s collaborating with power collector Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo a member of the international councils of MoMA and Tate Now have a tour around Milan's Fondazione Prada: The Dolomites: Italy's rugged, slow living region The Dolomites: Italy's rugged, slow living regionThe prettiest small towns in Italy The 11 prettiest small towns in ItalyGallery11 SlidesBy Nicky SwallowView SlideshowThe artists addressing climate change through their work ShareSaveLifestyleTravelWhere To Go Truffle Hunting This Fall and WinterByLauren Jade Hill Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights Lauren Jade Hill is a London-based editor and travel journalistFollow AuthorNov 03 07:10am ESTShareSaveThis article is more than 5 years old.With truffle season beginning in the fall and running through to the end of the year Stay in these luxury hotels across Croatia Italy and France to join in on the seasonal tradition Hunt for truffles while staying at Chateau de Montcaud in Provence which is running exclusively from the 14th to 17th November Expect a weekend of truffle hunting with family-owned Le Truffe du Ventoux wine tasting at local vineyard and winery La Rémejeanne and dining on carefully curated menus featuring French black winter truffles The weekend will come to a close with a day spent taking part in a truffle cooking class followed by a visit to nearby olive oil producer Moulin à Huile Thomassot and an evening meal at Le Cèdre de Montcaud Hunt for truffles while staying at the recently opened Chateau de Montcaud Each of these three hotels is situated within an area known for this gastronomic tradition Fonteverde lies close to San Giovanni d’Asso while Bagni di Pisa and Grotta Giusti provide easy access to San Miniato By staying in these properties September through December you’ll be able to forage for this delicacy with an expert truffle hunter and his well-trained dog while gaining insight into the reserves these truffles grow in and how the authorised truffle hunters collect them If you’re here on the 9th to 10th or 16th to 17th November you’ll be able to follow this foraging experience with a visit to the White Truffle Festival in San Giovanni d’Asso and San Miniato meet the professionals and buy some to take home See the sunset over the Tuscan landscape from the infinity pool of Fonteverde Piedmont is among Italy’s best-known truffle regions with Alba even being referred to as the white truffle capital of the world. The Relais & Chateaux property Relais San Maurizio is among the hotels drawing on this famous local ingredient The 17th-century hilltop monastery turned luxury hotel lies close to Alba within the white truffle and wine producing landscape of Langhe Here you can search for truffles in the local forest try the Langhe region’s cheese and wine and take a cooking class The hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant Guido da Costigliole which is situated in the monastery’s ancient cellar is where you’ll dine on the dishes of chef Luca Zecchin starring the finest local ingredients and paired with wines sourced from Piedmont The truffle and wine producing landscape of Istria Here you’ll sample truffle-infused products as well as taking part in forest truffle hunts and culinary workshops Noto is a sought-after destination: a UNESCO heritage site and an international capital of Baroque architecture one that characterizes the unique beauty of a region like Sicily The San Corrado in Noto is situated away from the bustling town in a blissfully secluded location perfectly integrated into the surrounding countryside Once a noble residence and a farm owned by Prince Nicolaci it's now a splendid resort with twenty-six suites Two of these suites even boast private pools and all modern comforts In addition to the eight villas nestled among olive trees the nearby beach club is just a short shuttle ride away providing the opportunity to relax on a private white sandy beach and enjoy the clear waters of the sea an extraordinary pool stands out – the "One Hundred Blue," a one-hundred-meter-long pool inspired by the shape of classical ancient Greek and Roman baths Another spacious pool overlooks the Hostaria Casa Pasta where one can savor dishes inspired by the island's typical recipes Leading the establishment is a highly experienced manager formerly at Relais San Maurizio in Piedmont Heading the food & beverage project is the young chef surrounded by a group of individuals born in the '90s like the maître and sommelier Benito Scatà with a prestigious past that includes time at Ciccio Sultano's Duomo for a couple of years "I attended a bilingual scientific high school; my inclination towards languages led me to tourism and hospitality I distinctly remember falling in love with this industry one New Year's Eve long ago starting with service and then moving on to explore a wide range of vastly different culinary experiences from the simplest to the highest level of fine dining here we are with Martin and over forty collaborators is genuine smiles and a love for a demanding profession an atmosphere prevails that complements the luxury of the place with a sense of well-being Then there's the same love for cooking that Martin Lazarov has felt since he was a child: "It's always been like this ever since I was in the kitchen with my mother When it came to deciding what school to attend His strong dedication to work has led him to operate in quite diverse contexts he gained experience as a private chef: "I've had the opportunity to work in prestigious homes taking on responsibilities for important families I've interacted with significant figures who want to taste authentic things without excessive embellishments I was the second chef at a restaurant in Fossano when I received an offer from the Garavoglia family of the Campari Group if one aims to excel in the culinary field with substantial added value: you have to be capable of everything from making eggs Benedict to pasta with clams and hosting the same 'guest' throughout breakfast There's no room to say no; you don't have months for traveling where we are part of an association like Relais et Chateaux we can travel anywhere: there are people who go to New York a gastronomic restaurant with legitimate and well-founded ambitions within the establishment Martin expresses himself through a cuisine that aims to be highly personal while also embracing a pluralistic approach as he deeply believes in the value of teamwork rejecting a division that often leads to conflicts: "We want it to be us who succeed here I need to convey something of myself and of the team Even the amuse-bouche are finished in the moment." because when asked about his most important goals he emphasizes guest satisfaction and the happiness of his team One of the most beautiful things for me is to sense a peaceful atmosphere where everyone is focused and aligned We know that being a chef is a particularly stressful role: I've worked in kitchens where life was difficult where you were afraid to speak up or express yourself From the moment we have the opportunity to create a different kitchen which already boasts around three hundred and fifty labels and is growing and the cuisine equally presents itself as solid with the potential to gain recognition on high levels It's prepared in a court-bouillon with ginger and basil and served with Kombu seaweed The base of the dish is marine plankton; the dressing is done tableside with beurre blanc the Agnolotti del plin which are equally remarkable 33 egg yolks are worked into a black truffle butter and veal jus; at the base of the dish is a cheese foam and red prawn from Mazara del Vallo: the spaghetti is blended with red pepper extraction along with a brunoise of the same crustacean the Trottole di Gragnano IGP from the Pastificio dei Campi are combined with red pepper butter The pigeon breast is slow-cooked at low temperature in a milk and black pepper infusion and then glazed with its own juices The pak choi is sautéed with a Japanese-style vinaigrette made of soy sauce accompanied by an oyster mayonnaise whipped à la volée and caper dessert is a small masterpiece of pastry technique its temperature is balanced with Grand Marnier ice cream It's served with a mille-feuille of puff pastry interchanged with lemon chantilly cream caramelized strawberry carpaccio with maple syrup and rice vinegar Contrada Belludia SP51- Noto (SR) - 96017 T. +39 0931 1842020 info@ilsancorradodinoto.com Website standing with the entire research team in front of the scaffold covering the Vasari fresco Why are the UC San Diego name and logo prominently displayed across one of the most famous walls in Florence?  It is a story that starts more than five hundred years ago when a Leonardo Da Vinci mural of the ‘Battle of Anghiari’ was painted on the wall of the Salone dei Cinquecento (the Hall of the Five Hundred) “It was ordained by public decree that Leonardo should be employed to paint some fine work,” to celebrate the new republic that had just driven the Medici family from power the hall was allotted to him by Piero Soderini the Gonfaloniere of Justice.” Da Vinci notes rather ominously in his own journal that he began to paint on June 6 just as a storm broke over the city and “great rain poured down until nightfall.” The scaffold in front of the Vasari fresco in the Hall of the 500 But you won’t find the celebrated battle scene today; in its stead you will find another magnificent mural entrancing visitors the ‘Battle of Marciano in Val di Chiana’ painted by Giorgio Vasari in 1563 we know that the Anghiari mural was still there in 1549 when Anton Francesco Doni wrote to a friend traveling to Florence: “Having ascended the stairs of the Salone Grande take a diligent view of a group of horses (a portion of Leonardo’s battle) which will appear a miraculous thing to you.” and another “miraculous thing will appear to you.” That same portion of the wall now has a painted cloth-covered scaffolding that stretches from floor to ceiling.  It displays the proud message that this is a National Geographic and UC San Diego co-venture.  And the venture is truly an adventure It is an ongoing search by UC San Diego alumnus Maurizio Seracini for the lost Da Vinci mural a search that has taken many twists and turns over the years and employed echographs Using the radar along the length and breadth of the Vasari mural between a newer brick wall and the original stone wall—large enough to preserve a mural on the hidden He concluded that if Da Vinci’s work was there it was almost certainly hidden behind the other magnificent mural that now entrances visitors But why would Vasari build a wall in front of the DaVinci and not paint over it Da Vinci’s mural celebrated the victory of the Republic over the Medicis he commissioned Vasari to cover the politically embarrassing mural with a rendition of his own victory over Siena in 1554 UCSD graduate student in materials science and engineering using light microscopy and x-ray fluorescence spectroscopy on the scaffold in the Salone dei Cinquecento “Vasari was a great admirer of Leonardo as we know from his Lives of the Artists,” Seracini says.  “And he would have had no reason whatsoever to destroy the Leonardo’s mural He had to place a wall in front of it since it represented a victory of the Republic of Florence.” But another clue is even more enticingly mysterious Seracini points out that there is a small battle flag amid a surging phalanx of pike men at the top of the Vasari mural that now covers the wall “Cerca Trova,” which translates as “He who seeks finds.” It is a teasing epigram worthy of Dan Brown’s bestseller The Da Vinci Code a research professor at UC San Diego’s California Institute for Telecommunications and Information Technology (Calit2) is now seeking a solution to the five-hundred-year-old mystery with the backing of National Geographic When Seracini first started his search for the lost Da Vinci he discovered that Vasari’s frescoes were painted on a brick wall built in front of an original stone wall Seracini discovered a gap of 1 to 3 centimeters between the two walls He concluded that Vasari had built the wall and left the gap to preserve the Da Vinci original with the backing and expertise of UCSD’s Calit2 He had planned to use a neutron activation device to bounce ions of the original stone wall hoping to build a sketchy outline of what existed there from the individual pigment signatures that were collected But that became politically impossible in Florence after the meltdown of Japan’s Fukushima Daichi reactor in the aftermath of the March 2011 earthquake and tsunami In an atmosphere where any nuclear device was suspect (Top Photo) Two video displays in the Hall of the 500 inform the 4,000 or so daily visitors about the innovative research being done at UC San Diego (Bottom Photo) UCSD graduate students and staff engineers in front of the scaffold in late January the LA Times reported: “Florence Mayor Matteo Renzi notified the team that he and local cultural officials had decided on a simple and fast way to solve the mystery — drilling holes in the Vasari and inserting tiny cameras into the gap between the walls.” Seracini was initially unsure Only six holes would be drilled and in areas where the plaster had already separated from the wall with Seracini and other researchers from UC San Diego’s Calit2 carefully working behind the cloth-covered scaffolding As they probe Vasari’s masterpiece for the lost DaVinci UC San Diego’s part in this cutting edge work is advertised across the front of the painted cloth and on the two large monitors looping videos on research at the campus The university’s work has become a magnet for the three to four thousand tourists who visit the Salone dei Cinquecento each day and are drawn to read about the university and its research Da Vinci’s lost mural and UC San Diego together in Florence Vasari’s battle flag declares “Cerca Trova”- he who seeks  With its reputation for discovery and innovation LOS ANGELES -- Aarchan Joshi plans to shoot for the moon before dawn Wednesday he'll be out to photograph luscious images of a rare "Supermoon." "It's three separate things that don't happen very often," says Joshi an ophthalmologist in the Los Angeles suburb of Torrance according to NASA, the moon is expected to be at its fullest with a full total lunar eclipse More: Triple treat: Supermoon, blue moon and lunar eclipse all coming to a sky near you this week So how to photograph this extraordinary occurrence?  He'll be out before 5 a.m. PT, camera and tripod ready, to capture rare photographs of the moon.  your best opportunity is to use a digital SLR camera with a proper lens, does a better job of zooming in on the moon. However if you're willing to scramble and quickly get some accessories to go with the smartphone you'll have a better chance at quality photos.  Camera and lensBeyond the DSLR — any model and higher up — you'll need a telephoto lens Many photographers have short zooms which bring them from a 24-millimeter wide-angle to 100mm telephoto but not at zooming in on a celestial body orbiting 238,900 miles from earth These are the types pros use to shoot sports If you have access to a tele-converter you can screw it onto the back of your lens to effectively double the focal length and get you a little closer to the action.  a tripod is a must to keep the camera steady You can buy a cheap model tonight at Walmart It allows you to open the shutter for exposures longer than the usual range of 1/60th or 1/125th of a second and it brings in more light and stars.  Lighting: Crank the ISO (lighting) down to 100 or 200 — the moon will be very bright Do the traditional 1/60th and 1/125th to stop the action and try the 1 minute/2 minute slow shutter as well The great thing about digital is you can tell what's working and what's not on the spot.  Composition: Get the moon into your shot by juxtaposing it against a landmark This will show the uniqueness of the moon at its best.  the moon is still going to look tiny on your smartphone It won't get you the shot DSLR photographers and their big lenses can produce, but the Olloclip accessory telephoto lens will get you a little closer on your iPhone. It's the same for Moment lenses for the Samsung Galaxy line so if you place it over the iPhone 7 Plus Most DSLR photographers will be dragging 400mm and 600mm lenses out there so while the smartphone will get you a little closer "The moon looks really big with a telephoto lens," says Joshi "It’s hard to do that with an iPhone."   Our best smartphone tip — go time-lapse Since the moon will look small in your smartphone photos you can still present a great picture of what happened by going time-lapse video and watching the moon get brighter and brighter Your tools for making the time-lapse: this is easy, you just need, again, a tripod, and a smartphone adapter to fit the unit atop the tripod The iPhone has a specific camera mode for making time lapses, while on Samsung Galaxy phones it's called "Hyperlapse." The Google Pixel doesn't have this, so you'll need to download the TimeLapse app on Google Play The basic rule of thumb of shooting time-lapses is the longer A 2-minute recording of a time lapse will only get you seconds of footage and you'll get less than a minute of footage depending upon the frame rate chosen and model of phone.   and leaves you plenty of time to tell your story you'll watch the sky light up with the moon's glow in a way you just wouldn't see on a normal day (I'll be shooting both stills and a time-lapse in the morning go share your photos and videos on social media Expect to see a lot of different takes on our moon It will be a January 31 to remember forever.  Follow USA TODAY's Jefferson Graham on Twitter selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter This article is part of a guide to Milan from FT Globetrotter What’s your favourite place in Milan? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter our insider guides to some of the world’s greatest cities offers expert advice on eating and drinking These playgrounds for snowsport aficionados have everything you need for a fun ski vacation Most of them have a variety of natural terrains perfect for both novice and experienced skiers Hobby skiers and those who just picked up the sport can take level-specific lessons and have a fun family vacation with their top-notch accommodations Here are a few of the must-visit ski resorts around the world Said to be the playground of the rich and famous, the place is known for world ski championships, five-star hotels including the 120-year old Badrutt Palace, Michelin-starred restaurants like Ecco St. Moritz, and its frozen lake that often hosts “White Turf” horse races. St. Moritz played host to two Winter Olympic Games and five Alpine Ski World Championships It is home to the famous “Free Fall”  the world’s steepest start gate that launches skiers from 0 to 90 mph in just 6 seconds Located in Hokkaido Japan, Niseko is a ski resort town north of Tokyo Considered the country’s most famous ski resort it draws visitors for its light powder snow with quality that remains consistent throughout winter Other activities you can do in Niseko include snowmobiling The place provides access to backcountry terrain through the resort’s lifts Tourists can also keep their palates busy with the variety of dining options where you can sample authentic Japanese cuisine you can relax in any of their fifteen volcanic hot springs including the 100-year old Kombu onsen This ski resort town, located atop Colorado’s Rocky Mountains is known for its four famous ski resorts: Aspen Mountain, Snowmass Mountain, Aspen Highlands Mountain, and Buttermilk Mountain Snowsport aficionados visit the place to ski and witness events like the Games Aspen at Buttermilk and the Audi Power of Four that starts at Snowmass as well as the popular X Games Its location 7,908 feet above sea level gives the place a high alpine climate with low humidity affording it snow for most months of the year Hobbyists and beginners can also take lessons or simply enjoy Aspen’s many vacation amenities Located two hours north of Vancouver in Canada Whistler is what many consider the largest ski resort in North America It features 8,171 acres of accessible terrain served by 35 lifts and peak to peak gondola and eight terrain parks for both beginners and experienced skiers The place is also a family-friendly resort with plenty of mini-terrain parks for children as well as over 18 restaurants and a variety of accommodation to fit your needs amidst the glistening snow looks stunning at night Many tourists come to Gstaad to ski and stay to enjoy its charming chalet village Aside from the 200 kilometers of ski slopes  the place also features a laid-out resort system composed of six areas that are interconnected by 53 lifts including 10 gondolas Gstaad has plenty of downhill runs, as well as plenty of terrain for beginners and other vacation amenities for the entire family. There’s also a seemingly endless selection of boutiques, pastry shops, and cafes in and around this rustic Swiss town located in Southwestern Switzerland. This modern ski resort located in southeastern France was awarded the Best Ski Resort in Europe by EDEN the European Destinations of Excellence Network twice It’s also been chosen as the Best Ski Resort For Guaranteed Snow Visitors love Alpe d’Huez for its fun mix of relaxation It features amenities for families of both beginner and advanced skiers The place is composed of five ski resorts spread across two mountain villages  Auris-en-Oisans Known locally simply as Cortina, this ski town located a few hours from Venice ­­­ features over 50 miles of cross-country pistes and 140 ski runs But there’s more to Cortina than its challenging slopes and seemingly endless ski fields This picturesque little town with its charming Italian architecture pressed against a beautiful backdrop is also steep in history you can explore the charming town and learn about its role in the first world war or you can go around and find areas used for the Bond movie For Your Eyes Only Others come here to catch a glimpse of the beautiful Dolomiti on the Italian Alps This village cum ski resort located at the western border of Tyrol in the Arlberg region of Austria has been attracting ski enthusiasts for 100 years Considered one of the top ski destinations in the Alps Anton is the biggest connected ski area in Austria and a town that boasts a varied selection of chalets The place was home to the legendary ski meister Hannes Schneider With its challenging terrain and steep slopes the place is more suited for advanced and more experienced skiers Zermatt is an idyllic mountain village located in Valais and is considered the highest ski resort in Switzerland It's famous for its majestic view of the Matterhorn and year-round skiing Zermatt’s ski region also known as the “Matterhorn glacier paradise” features four ski areas–Sunnegga Klein Matterhorn and Schwarzsee—connected by 63 lifts It’s the only year-round ski resort in Switzerland and one of the two remaining glaciers in the Alps to open 365 days a year. Aside from skiing, people also visit Zermatt to see the glacier trail, climb up the mountain, or enjoy a tub of Cheese fondue inside a gondola with a view of the splendid Matterhorn The host of the first-ever Winter Olympics held in 1924 has become famous throughout the years among professional skiers and mountain climbing enthusiasts. This ski resort town nestled at the foot of Mount-Blanc is as charming as it is exciting Although its ski areas with its steep piste and challenging slopes are more suited for advanced skiers and mountain biking people also come here to enjoy its vibrant nightlife Chamonix has an array of bars and clubs that offer respite to vacationers after a day of snow activities photos and original descriptions © 2025 worldatlas.com 1664 - 1739) will say little to many living outside Liguria The fame of this sculptor is mostly confined to Genoa and its environs it would be necessary to speak of Sanremo and Sestri Levante respectively the western and eastern limits of his presence in the region) it also becomes an arduous task to find his works: the vast majority of his production is palaces and museums of this strip of land squeezed between the sea and the Apennines It might seem singular that such a great artist to whom this year the Palazzo Reale in Genoa is devoting its first monographic exhibition (it is entitled Maragliano 1664-1739 curated by Daniele Sanguineti under the direction of Luca Leoncini) is so little known beyond regional borders Not least because there is no traveler who and often when one is confronted with a wooden sculpture by Maragliano one is moved to awe: Maragliano was a genius of the Baroque he was able to draw cues from painters (above all Domenico Piola) he was able to grasp the essence of Bernini’s art and interpret it with a highly theatrical yet strongly naturalistic language that aspired to appeal to an audience that was as wide as possible was able to benefit from collaboration with a marble altar specialist such as Jacopo Antonio Ponzanelli (Massa so that his sacred theaters were among the most scenic of the time Maragliano still remains virtually unknown outside his homeland A number of factors played to his disadvantage: first that he never moved from Genoa for the duration of his career Maragliano was an artist firmly rooted in his region and we can even assume that he never traveled outside Genoa (for that matter there are no documents left to us that can attest to this and we have no grounds for assuming sojourns outside the patriot borders): his style was formed on examples that he had at his disposal in the city but which were evidently sufficient for him to reach very high results of originality of his patrons: much of Maragliano’s work was destined for parishes and confraternities and consequently the reach that such a parterre could guarantee to his art could only be limited (although it ensured his widespread diffusion throughout the territory) It is then true that his works reached as far as Spain (Genoa has been a city of exchange and meeting of different cultures for centuries) his works were largely intended for an extremely practical function: they were to decorate chapels And if one’s mind runs to processions one cannot help but reason that Maragliano’s works had to speak the language of those who would pray or venerate them and it was almost always a language perceived as popular and far from the sensibilities of the cultured people who traveled it must be considered that wooden sculpture has always enjoyed less prominence and less attention than marble sculpture which was considered a sort of nobler sister the rediscovery of the art of wood is recent and in the catalog of the Palazzo Reale exhibition in Italy and around the world: the first pioneering attempts to set up a discourse on wood sculpture date back to the 1950s when Ferdinando Bologna and Raffaello Causa curated an exhibition on Wooden Sculpture in Campania (1950) followed closely byAncient Wooden Art in Liguria edited by Pasquale Rotondi (1952) and an exhibition on Wooden Sculpture in Friuli (1956) These were attempts that had little follow-up since it was not until fifty years later that they returned to the subject: to pick up the thread again the exhibition The Beauty of the Sacred in Arezzo (2002) an in-depth study devoted to medieval polychrome sculpture which was followed by the 2004 Sacra Selva (on Ligurian wooden sculpture between the 12th and 16th centuries curated by Franco Boggero and Piero Donati) and the exhibition of Masters of Wooden Sculpture in the Duchy of the Sforza family (2005) moving through the important monograph on a great contemporary of Maragliano the Venetian Andrea Brustolon(Andrea Brustolon the “Michelangelo of wood” in 2009) the Uffizi dedicated to 15th-century wooden sculpture in Florence More timid was the international rediscovery which Leoncini traces back to a fifteen-year period with the exhibition The Sacred Made Real (at the National Gallery in London between 2009 and 2010 on seventeenth-century Spanish sculpture): perhaps due to the fact that wood sculpture from the Mediterranean area is very distant from the “cultural setting” of the Anglo-Saxon public which is refractory to “too explicit manifestations of carnality exhibited particularly in religious scenes.” The exhibition at Palazzo Reale set up in the spaces of the Teatro del Falcone thus represents the most recent chapter in a slow but rich and important evolution (also because an exhibition of wood sculpture is almost always an occasion for reconnaissance in the area as well as a harbinger of new discoveries) and being the first monographic exhibition on Maragliano it is also the first attempt to present to a wide audience a sculptor of exceptional stature rather than an extraordinary protagonist of the late Baroque And like any monographic exhibition that aspires to excellence the exhibition on Maragliano opens with a timely reconstruction of the context the journey begins with woodcarving in Genoa before Maragliano: it starts in 1645 so twenty years before Maragliano was born and eight years after the Madonna was proclaimed Queen of Genoa The solemn proclamation of 1637 kicked off the production of a series of images of the Virgin in which a sculpture made by Giovanni Battista Bissoni (Genoa first decade of the 17th century - 1657) for the church of San Marco in Civezza (Imperia) is also included: it was an almost slavish replica of the image that Bissoni himself had sculpted precisely in 1637 based on a design by Domenico Fiasella (Sarzana on the occasion of the ceremony (today the work is preserved in Voltri) Bissoni was the greatest of wood sculptors in Genoa in the mid-seventeenth century reveals a rather restrained and traditional language it is a work that continues the research begun by Giovanni Battista’s father aimed at radically renew ing Genoese wooden sculpture to bring them up to date with a higher naturalism (evident even when observing the Regina di Genova) that was also intended to have eminently narrative purposes The latter feature is not appreciated in the work that opens the exhibition but observing an achievement by a pupil of Giovanni Battista Bissoni one can well understand what outcomes the woodcut artists were aiming for at the time: the scene is caught in a very precise moment the executioner pulls his arm back to deal the fatal blow with his sword and Salome smugly points to the Baptist’s end All almost with excess of ornamentation (one need only observe her dress) oriented toward Rome (Poggio probably visited the capital of the Papal States) was a more traditional production: in the exhibition we have the example of the Madonna of the Rosary by Giuseppe Maria Arata (Genoa moreover referred to by Carlo Giuseppe Ratti as Maragliano’s master: it is a work that does not deviate too much from conventional patterns would form the substratum on which sedimented the art of Maragliano who in his early twenties was already an independent and proud artist: the exhibition displays the plea with which the 24-year-old Anton Maria asked the Senate of the Republic of Genoa for exemption from the obligation to register in the art of “bancalari” (i.e. carpenters: wood sculptors were in fact required to join this guild) because wood sculpture is among the liberal arts “the noblest even in comparison with painting.” A request that somehow had to be fulfilled since Maragliano never joined the carpenters’ chamber it is necessary to wait until 1694 to find his first documented work: it is the Saint Michael Archangel for the brotherhood of the same name in Celle Ligure “nothing analogous can be resorted to if not by abandoning the field of wooden sculpture and crossing those of painting and marble sculpture.” The “suave flight” of St grasps the spear (moving it only with his fingertips!) to defeat the Lucifer who is already succumbing with a desperate cry has illustrious precedents that the exhibition offers to the visitor to make clear the reminders of Maraglian’s first documented masterpiece: the angel’s posture replicates that of an altarpiece by Gregorio De Ferrari (Porto Maurizio 1727) executed for the Imperial Chapel in Santa Maria delle Vigne; that of the devil is punctually matched in a drawing by Domenico Piola (Genoa 1628 - 1703) now in the Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe in Palazzo Rosso the manner in which the saint grasps the spear is quite similar to what the archangel shows in another Piola house drawing and the devil’s belligerent scream relates to theAnima dannata by the Sicilian ceroplast Giovan Bernardo Azzolino (Cefalù and itself a descendant of Bernini’s homologous and celebrated work Michael the Archangel already reveals the stylistic signature that will form the basis of Maragliano’s sculpture: the innovations made by the Genoese sculptor "granted the faithful the definitive response to their expectations: the unprecedented ’hyperrealism’ of the figures and the spectacularity of the processional chests accentuated the pathetic aspects already inherent in the sculptural three-dimensionality ensuring a more stringent emotional identification between audience and simulacrum" (Valentina Borniotto) saints frozen with amazement before ecstatic apparitions saints suffering the torments of martyrdom: these are the figures that devoted to the most vivid and often crude expressionism The Genoese exhibition presents side by side the San Pietro d’Alcantara and the San Pasquale Baylon made for the Franciscans of Santa Maria della Pace: it was precisely the Franciscans who were among Maragliano’s most assiduous clients perhaps precisely because of the high degree of realism the sculptor was able to touch dating from the beginning of the 18th century and their hair styles that respect traditional iconography (bald St straight hair Pasquale Baylon: those that Maragliano gives them seem almost unkempt) achieve an intense naturalism in line with the requests of the Franciscans who displayed the two statues on occasions of solemn festivities the back corridor of the Teatro del Falcone on the walls of which crucifixes have been arranged on both sides for the occasion introduces the audience to the first thematic exploration of the exhibition: the renewal of the iconography of the crucifix states that “his first works were certain Images of Crucifixes in the structure of which he had already acquired much skill because of the accurate observations and frequent copies made from the very rare Crucifix which is exhibited in the Church of the Holy Spirit at the PP Somaschi.” The work by Bissoni (in this case it is Giovanni Battista) to which Ratti alludes is on display in the exhibition: it is the Crucifix made around 1643 for the Chapel of the Cross in Santo Spirito Raffaele Soprani had also spoken of this Christ on the Cross calling it “the most beautiful of the beautiful.” it was a Crucifix that intended to combine the vivid naturalism of earlier enterprises such as Domenico Bissoni ’s Cristo spirante (Bissone which describes with heartfelt and participating patheticism the suffering of Jesus in agony on the cross to solemn and to some extent classicist impulses stimulated by an interest in Algardi’s language as well as by texts already present in the city (above all Federico Barocci’s Christ still preserved in the Cathedral of San Lorenzo in the place for which it was painted: the Senarega Chapel) It is a very young Maragliano who is confronted with the Christ of Giovanni Battista Bissoni: a very recent research by Massimo Bartoletti (it is from this year) has proposed to fix on the basis of information deduced from an inventory at 1689 the date of execution of Maragliano’s Crucifix in the church of Santissima Annunziata in Spotorno It is a model that faithfully echoes Bissoni’s work (even the folds of Christ’s loincloth follow the same course): only Maragliano’s Christ is turned to the other side in a mirror-image manner to Bissoni’s Maragliano proved to break away from his points of reference with a Christ framed in the scheme of an increasingly sinuous layout (this is the case of the Crucifix in the Church of the Nativity of Mary Most Holy in Bogliasco or of that of Villa Faraldi in Imperia) but which does not renounce a continuous search for veracity that verges on virtuosity especially if one observes the details of the anatomies (the way Maragliano modeled the muscles denotes a thorough knowledge of the human body) or those of the face (and particularly intense is the expression of the Christ spirant of the church of San Michele in San Michele di Pagana near Rapallo: this is one of his last works) Maragliano’s experiments were highly successful to the schemes set by the master: among the crucifixes on display in the exhibition we can mention the one by Giovanni Battista Maragliano (news from 1714 to 1737) executed for the oratory of Santa Chiara in Bogliasco and with which the son of Anton Maria proposes a sober interpretation of his father’s innovations A brief parenthesis on the design of the large wood carvings (drawings and models are on display) leads the visitor to the highlight of the exhibition which first opens with a section devoted to the “grand theater of the casacce.” in Genoa the so-called casacce were associations of several confraternities in the same oratory each named after a different saint (although the confraternities that constituted them continued to revere their patron equally) Fausta Franchini Guelfi explains in the catalog essay devoted precisely to the casacce “publicly manifested their relevance in the processional ritual: it is in fact the procession [...] to represent the most explicit and lively expression of devotional needs in the context of a territory and a system of relationships reaffirming one’s prestige also with the magnificence of the apparatus.” And of such magnificence Maragliano was the most innovative and striking interpreter: his casacce (the term used in Genoa to designate the processional machines the large simulacra carried on the shoulders of members of the confraternities during festivities) reached unusual heights of spectacularity which the exhibition intends to evoke by also availing itself of stagings that do not skimp on the matter of scenographic taste (gloomy environments casacce displayed isolated from each other and placed at a height roughly similar to the height they must have been when they were transported) The need of the casacce was to strongly impress the audience of the processions (as well as the members of rival casacce: often the processions were even the cause of violent clashes) with imposing machines devoted to the most dramatic theatricality To be represented were scenes from the lives of the titular saints of the casacce: these were often martyrdoms or visions moments narrated according to a strict adherence to hagiographies Maragliano was not interested in providing his own interpretation of the sacred texts: what was important to him was to represent the texts according to a spectacularity never before experienced by others Maraglianesque novelties thus resided in his dense often capable of descending into the abysses of the grotesque apt to give form to the late Paleotian instances of excitement of the minds of the onlookers most of Maragliano’s coffers have lost their original function but to get an idea of the feelings they triggered in those who observed them during processions it is necessary to imagine them being carried on the shoulders amid noisy and vociferous crowds through the streets of Genoa Among the most powerful Maraglianesque chests is certainly the St Anthony Abbot Contemplating the Death of St carved between 1709 and 1710 for the Brotherhood of St Paul the Hermit and now in the Oratory of St Anthony Abbot in Mele: an imposing processional group nearly four meters high celebrated by Ratti (“I frankly assert this to be the best Work that has come out of the scarpelli of Maraggiano”) and figuration among the most complex conceived by the Genoese artist seeing Saint Paul the Hermit die and his soul elevated to heaven by a swarm of angels holds the mitre and pastoral staff of Anthony Abbot and mimesis invests even the base of the group which imitates the rocky environment on which the scene takes place Voted to wonder is also theAnnunciation of 1722 a work of maturity with which Maragliano reaches greater refinement and which “marks on the part of the sculptor the conquest of a new freshness of execution under the banner of extreme formal elegance unique in the contemporary Genoese panorama” (Daniele Sanguineti): achievements that would be emphasized in the later groups imagined in the guise of a scenic pyramid structure with angels rushing to the aid of the saint suffering the tortures of her torturers (the scene is far from stark however: the late Maragliano experiments with a style that combines drama and grace) And if much of Maraglianesco’s theater took place in the street no less significant was that conceived for the interiors of chapels: in fact the production of chests was flanked by that of altar groups looking on the one hand at the compositions of the Frenchman Honoré Pellé (Gap on the other at the marble splendors of Filippo Parodi with the Carrarese Ponzanelli whose task it was to design the apparatuses that would accommodate the statues succeeded in creating total works of art where the protagonists were not only his characters but also the backgrounds painted by the painters the light that was exploited in a narrative sense and the architecture that framed the compositions It is not easy to realize this in the exhibition (the curators’ invitation is to go also to the discovery of the works distributed in the city many of which are still in their original locations) especially those on the theme of the Passion of Christ These include the Deposition from the Cross which brings to three-dimensional life a Cambiasque precedent in painting (today we no longer preserve the original arrangements because the church that housed the work was destroyed at the time of the Napoleonic suppressions) or the highly praised Pieta all played out on diagonals and thus almost animated by movement the exhibition investigates the evolutions undergone by representations of the Madonna in seventeenth-century Genoa: a renewal under the banner of Baroque exuberance albeit somewhat toned down compared to what was happening at the same time in Rome which was spurred on by the presence in the city of a great sculptor such as Pierre Puget (Marseille who in Genoa was a great popularizer of the manners ofAlessandro Algardi who is also present in the exhibition with a bronze Madonna and Child (consider that Algardi was primarily a sculptor in marble) probably known in Genoa since it is a model that several Genoese sculptors replicated Maragliano was the first to translate into wood (and thus to renew a field that still remained tied to traditional stylistic features) the suggestions coming from marble in search of a plasticism and softness unheard of in Genoese wooden sculpture graceful and adorned with elegantly ornate robes such as the Madonna of the Rosary from Celle Ligure whose cloak designs elegant volutes that fall forming almost unnatural folds entirely painted white to simulate a marble sculpture and where the fluttering of the drapery and the refined gesture of the right hand with the middle finger and thumb joined return (we have to imagine Our Lady of Mount Carmel as she holds the scapular is functional in displaying the rosary to the faithful) There is also no shortage of curiosities such as the mannequin of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in the basilica of San Maurizio in Imperia: the Madonna had to be clad in real clothes with which the Palazzo Reale exhibition ends: among others the Madonna of the Rosary by Agostino Storace (Genoa second decade of the 18th century - after 1793) which re-proposes Maraglianesque schemes albeit more compassed and even the counterpart work by Giovanni Maragliano (Genoa with its draperies arranged almost geometrically There is no doubt that the exhibition at Palazzo Reale can be included in the list of this year’s outstanding exhibitions a long-standing commitment by Daniele Sanguineti (who had already begun working on Maragliano in the 1990s publishing a substantial monograph on the sculptor in 1998: an important basis for reading the current exhibition which thus comes exactly twenty years later) the exhibition succeeds in capturing several results of considerable relevance the underlining of the importance of the figure of Maragliano: it is true that already the aforementioned 1998 monograph had restored to the artist an autonomy capable of recognizing his genius and elevating him among the greats of the late Baroque but a major exhibition was still missing from the roll call bringing together most of his major works in a path that happily combined philological depth and vocation for popularization the merit of the exhibition is that of reconstructing the dense weave of Genoese wooden sculpture between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries with extreme thoroughness: the merit lies in not having presented Maragliano as an isolated talent but as the most precious germination of a fertile and awake environment The extension of the discourse to the broader subject of wooden sculpture of the period has allowed for the development of in-depth reflections involving historical cultural and social as well as artistic aspects and sometimes leading to unprecedented conclusions: it will be opportune to make a quick mention of the section (of which we have been silent above) of the private Maragliano an attributional proposal has been formulated for a group of statuettes from the late eighteenth century who was among the major Ligurian wood sculptors of the late eighteenth century this is an exhibition that will be remembered for a long time to come: set up on the basis of recent research (most of the works that comprise it have been published in the last ten years) it not only makes a substantial contribution to our knowledge of Maragliano but also stands as an important new chapter in the rediscovery of wood sculpture well accompanied by a full-bodied catalog that represents an indispensable tool for study and in-depth study for those who wish to approach Maragliano’s art or find the most up-to-date findings on his production there is also to be emphasized the fact that the general public cannot help but be both fascinated and impressed by Maragliano’s extraordinary machines also by virtue of the fact that the arrangements have been designed to enhance the grand spectacle of Maragliano’s theater with the premises of the Falcone Theater exploited to create an itinerary that holds surprises room after room and thus succeeds in the intent of suggesting to the visitor what the effect Maragliano’s sculptures must have been in the relative seventeenth-eighteenth century but it is carried out in an egregious manner Milan is one of the world’s fashion and design capitals As the financial center of Italy and a cultural mecca known for its many monuments – such as the famous Duomo – Milan is a dynamic city Here is a complete travel guide to discover Milan in a few days the plane is the fastest way to get there but it is also possible to go by train This is the option I chose: it takes 7 hours by TGV from France (Paris) and it offers several advantages The train allows you to leave from the center of Paris and arrive in the center of Milan no luggage check-in and no weight limitations It is also more ecological and economical: a first class return ticket booked 3 weeks before the departure cost me only €100 Two days is a minimum to have time to visit the must-see places in Milan four or five days will not be too much to explore the city If you stay in the city center you can do a lot of things on foot There is also a very good network of streetcars and subways that make it easy to get around The old streetcars have a lot of charm and add a touch of change to the trip Tickets can be bought directly from your cell phone on the “ATM Milano” application: 2 € for a ticket valid for 1h30 (18 € for a book of 10 tickets) and 7 € for a 24h ticket as a couple or as a family: there are many activities to choose from and everyone can adapt the program of visits according to their tastes which makes it a pleasant destination from spring to autumn but it should be avoided if possible during the height of summer to avoid the crowds and the heat in Milan Italian is spoken but almost everyone also speaks English Yes: SìNo: NoHello: BuongiornoGood evening: BuonaseraHello: CiaoGoodbye: Arrivederci ArrivederciPlease: PregoPlease: Per favoreThank you: GrazieExcuse me: ScusiHow are you doing?: Come sta Milan is a city that does not lack charm with many colorful buildings and its typical streetcar that you can take just for the pleasure of discovering Milan through its windows Here are the 10 must-sees in Milan but I also recommend you to stroll in the different districts to push the door of the churches (they are all free except the Duomo)… in short: take the time to get lost in the city to better feel the atmosphere Officially called “cattedrale metropolitana della Natività della Beata Vergine Maria” (Metropolitan Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary) the Duomo of Milan is the city’s cathedral Its construction began in 1386 but was not completed until 1965 This particularly imposing building is the third largest church in the world after St Peter’s Basilica in Rome and the Cathedral of Seville It is decorated with 135 spires and 3400 statues In short, it’s not cheap but it’s THE must-see monument in Milan and it would be a shame not to visit it. Despite these prices, the Duomo is crowded so don’t expect to visit it alone and think about booking your tickets in advance on the official website I highly recommend that you take the ticket to access the terrace to get a good look at the impressive spires and to enjoy a beautiful view of the city Piazza del DuomoTickets to be reserved in advance on the official websiteEvery day from 9am to 7pmAttention: your shoulders must be covered to enter the Duomo This shopping gallery is one of the most beautiful covered passages in the world Built in the 19th century in a neoclassical baroque style it is surprisingly large: built in the shape of a cross the longest part extends for almost 197 meters the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the most beautiful in good weather It owes its name to King Victor Emmanuel II of Italy (1820-1878) it is one of the most prestigious places in Milan Inside you will find many luxury stores (Armandi Piazza del DuomoFree entranceOpen 24 hours a day La Scala is one of the most famous Italian opera houses it is a monumental hall that can accommodate about 2800 spectators every night La Scala is the same height as the Tower of Pisa the La Scala Theatre Museum displays costumes paintings and various objects related to the world of opera Its old-fashioned presentation makes it a particularly charming place The other interesting thing about this museum is that it allows you to enter a box from which you can contemplate the hall and discover its magnificent architecture without having to buy a ticket for the show 1Prices: 8 € (reduced price); 12 € (full price)Open every day from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm The “navigli” are the canals of Milan They were used to connect Milan to Europe but also to irrigate the land only two canals are still visible: Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese The many bars and restaurants that line the canals make it a pleasant place to stroll or have a drink Tip: I recommend La Prosciutteria Milano Navigli where you can order a drink accompanied by cheese and cold cuts The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most famous Italian museums Tintoretto and many others are to be discovered This museum owes its existence to Napoleon who confiscated many works from Italian churches and convents with the intention of making it a representative place of Italian art open to the public 28Rates: 15 € / 2 € for 18-25 years old / free for under 18 years oldOpen every day If the exterior of this church does not look like much the interior is sumptuous and richly decorated This church was part of a Benedictine convent and was divided in two: one part for the nuns Built around Piazza Gae Aulenti with its futuristic design this brand new district attracts the eye with its sleek buildings and skyscrapers This neighborhood is located in front of the Milan Garibaldi train station which you will arrive at if you come to Milan by TGV from France Impossible to miss this castle whose high tower is visible far into the city The Castello Sforzesco was built by the Viscontis in the 14th century before being destroyed and rebuilt in 1451 by the Sforzas The courtyard of the castle is freely accessible but it is also possible to visit the fortress the impressive Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace) with its impressive statues Piazza CastelloEvery day from 7 am to 7:30 pm stands an unusual statue by the artist Maurizio Cattelan This hand with its outstretched middle finger is called “L.O.V.E.” which means Liberta (freedom) Vendetta (revenge) and Eternita (eternity) Installed in the heart of the financial center it is of course a provocative sign against the violence of modern capitalism the famous painting by Leonardo da Vinci depicting Christ surrounded by the apostles is a mural located in the refectory room of the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie painted between 1495 and 1498 Visits are very limited and are made in small groups of 18 people every 15 minutes It is advisable to book at least one month in advance to have a chance of getting a place it is sometimes possible to obtain a place the same day by going to the ticket office during my visit I did not manage to get the precious sesame 2Prices: 26 € / 13 € for 18-25 years old / free for under 18 years oldTuesday to Saturday from 9am to 7pmSunday from 9am to 1:45pmOnline booking there’s nothing surprising about this pretty little domed church But if you take a look at the small corridor on the right as you enter you will discover a chapel decorated with an ossuary of skulls and human bones The history of this church is linked to a hospital built nearby in 1145 the hospital’s cemetery was quickly filled so in the 13th century a room was built to collect the bones of the deceased Piazza Santo StefanoFree entranceMonday to Friday from 8 am to 6 pmSaturday from 9:30 am to 6 pmClosed on Sunday be curious to discover this impressive but also a bit intimidating station the works were delayed by the first world war Mussolini changed the plans to make it the symbol of the power of the fascist regime hence the presence of many allegorical sculptures and imperial eagles If the hall is surmounted by impressive stone vaults the 24 platforms are covered by a vast glass roof During my stay, I stayed at the Hotel Repubblica located less than 10 minutes walk from the Central Station and about 20 minutes walk from the Duomo This is one of the most frequently mentioned pizza places in the guidebooks You can enjoy delicious pizzas for very reasonable prices with a glass of prosecco offered as an aperitif This address is very popular and the restaurant is small in the early afternoon (around 2:30 pm) after the lunch rush this restaurant is an ideal place to have a drink facing the canals The concept of a free carafe of water does not exist There is no shortage of good ice cream shops in Milan but of all the ones I tried Don’t be afraid if there is a queue outside Right next to Ciacco Gelato you will find the Peck store where you can find many local products but also several caterers and a restaurant Find all the addresses mentioned in this article on this map: Δdocument.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value" This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.  Learn more Chaque mois, recevez le meilleur de Culturez-vous dans votre boite mail ! 2018Photographed by Acielle / STYLE DU MONDESave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors six fashion insiders offer a peek into their bags and I always have a travel-size version of Bergamot and Ambra Nera in my purse I always stock up at their lovely shop at Campo San Maurizio Rudolph Care Acai Anti-Stress Facial CreamI am completely addicted to the Danish skin-care brand Rudolph Care The hydrating facial cream is always in my bag and is on the top of my list when it comes to my essential beauty routine If I could only bring one beauty product to a desert island Rudolph Care Acai Facial MistI always keep this travel-size Acai Facial Mist in my bag It’s a must in this heat as a hydration boost and to refresh my makeup at any time during the day it magically hides the dark circles around my eyes and conceals any blemishes I have had this mist in my bag to freshen up during the day It smells fresh and helps me through long working hours Rudolph Care Sun Face CreamAndrea Rudolph makes the best sun creams I use SPF 15 in the winter and SPF 30 in the summer and has some kind of simple yet powerful purity to it et cetera.) and so I wash them all the time If I forget my hand cream at home for just a couple of days It is always hanging on the strap of my bag for a hair emergency or a cute detail for my bun Dr. Bronner’s Organic Hand SanitizerIt is very important for me to have clean hands when I have to touch up my makeup during the day Bronner’s Organic Hand Sanitizer in lavender is a must in my bag The beautiful smell keeps me calm and relaxes me through a stressful day Glossier Balm Dotcom in RoseThis lip balm has the most perfect translucent pink tint and it smells like a fresh summer garden I also use it on my cheeks and eyelids for a more glossy look Photos: Courtesy of Jeanette Friis Madsen; Glossier; Tromborg; MavalaJeanette Friis Madsen Glossier Balm Dotcom in CoconutThis is an essential Mavala Switzerland Mavapen Cuticle OilI like my hands and nails to be presentable when I’m with clients Tromborg Mineral FoundationThis is the best It’s so light and leaves my skin looking natural with a bit of glow Jurlique Rosewater Balancing MistIt has been a very hot summer in Copenhagen This product has been very needed in the heat Glossier LidstarI’m in love with this product I always have it in my bag if I need to glitter my day up Rudolph Care Golden Kiss Body OilThis is for an extra, naturally golden tan in the summertime. UK artist David Tremlett is famous for his wall drawings in coloured pastels applied by hand to the walls of churches museums and public spaces: coloured traces of a deed or a thought David Tremlett at work at the Cappella Relais San Maurizio and the “Little Church among the Vineyards” in Coazzolo (2017) his third intervention in Piedmont’s Langhe region is the permanent Wall Drawing in Pastel for Open Space San Maurizioin the Relais Chapel of San Maurizio in Santo Stefano Belbo (near Cuneo) inside the five-star structure that now occupies a 17th-century Cistercian monastery Tremlett has decorated the chapel walls with his trademark coloured geometric forms and these are interrupted by a white band which This site-specific artwork can be visited by appointment His artistic production of these months does not stop in northern Italy: in Bari Tremlett has created a wall drawing in the historic monumental complex of Santa Chiara and San Francesco della Scarpa linked to the artist’s special relationship with the city in which he stayed 27 times pays homage to Bari and is devoted to the gallery owner Marilena Bonomo “Wall Surfaces (27 stops – Bari)” in the monumental complex of Santa Chiara and San Francesco della Scarpa in Bari and website in this browser for the next time I comment Abitare.it e Style.corriere.it rifiutando tutti i cookie di profilazione ad eccezione di quelli tecnici necessari Naviga il sito di Abitare.it con pubblicità profilata e senza abbonarti By subscribing you will reject all but technical cookies on Iodonna.it By clicking "accept" you will allow to process your personal data by us and third parties and be able to browse Abitare.it website without a subscription If you’re in town during January and July when the sales are going on Information on this page, including website, location, and opening hours, is subject to have changed since this page was last published. If you would like to report anything that’s inaccurate, let us know at notification@afar.com. AFAR participates in affiliate marketing programs, which means we may earn a commission if you purchase an item featured on our site.© 2025 AFAR LLC Arm yourself with a camera and good company: Lombard sunsets are waiting to give you unforgettable moments in 20 places to discover. Sunset, that magical moment when the sky is tinged with a thousand hues and the world seems to slow down, has the power to transform even the most hectic of cities into a living painting. Milan, with its modern skyline and historic corners, is no exception. You may have never thought about it, but the Lombard capital and its surroundings hold real treasures for sunset lovers. According to scientists, watching this natural spectacle stimulates the production of serotonin, the feel-good hormone. So are you ready to be enchanted? Here are 20 amazing places where you can admire breathtaking sunsets in and around Milan, far from the most touristy and crowded destinations: View this post on Instagram This green lung in Milan’s western suburbs transforms into an oasis of peace at sunset. Artificial lakes reflect the colors of the sky, creating amazing plays of light. View this post on Instagram Also known as the “Montagnetta di San Siro,” this artificial relief offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the city. At sunset, Milan lies at your feet in a riot of light and color. View this post on Instagram A post shared by 🅜🅔🅓🅘🅒🅘 🅑🅞🅡🅙🅐 ❶❷ 🇪🇸👣🇫🇷 (@medici_borja_12) An unusual angle to admire the sunset over the water is the final stretch of Viale Gorizia, which extends to Piazza XXIV Maggio, marking the point where the Naviglio Grande and the Darsena basin converge. Here golden reflections on the Naviglio Grande create an almost Venetian atmosphere in the heart of Milan. View this post on Instagram A post shared by BOSCO VERTICALE (@boscoverticalemilano) If you manage to gain access to one of the apartments in this iconic green skyscraper, a breathtaking view of the sunset reflecting off the buildings of Porta Nuova awaits you. View this post on Instagram One of Milan’s oldest public gardens, it offers an oasis of tranquility in the heart of the city. At sunset, the light filtering through the ancient trees creates an almost enchanted atmosphere. View this post on Instagram This little hidden gem on the university campus offers an amazing view of the Milan skyline the cherry blossom trees add a magical touch to the sunset View this post on Instagram Known as the “Sistine Chapel of Milan,” this church offers a unique sunset experience. The light filtering through the stained glass windows creates a mystical and evocative atmosphere. View this post on Instagram These historic gardens, located in the center of Milan, offer a romantic and peaceful atmosphere. Sitting on a bench while the sun sets through the trees is an enchanting experience. View this post on Instagram It may seem unusual, but the Monumental Cemetery offers unique views at sunset. The sculptures and mausoleums create striking silhouettes against the pinkish sky. View this post on Instagram Drive along the towpath to the border with Opera. Here, far from the city chaos, the sunset over the canal creates atmospheres worthy of an impressionist painting. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Cᴏᴏᴘᴇʀᴀᴛɪᴠᴀ Cᴀsᴄɪɴᴀ Bɪʙʟɪᴏᴛᴇᴄᴀ (@cascina_biblioteca) This farmhouse in Lambro Park offers an unexpected bucolic view. At sunset, the fields are tinged with gold, giving the illusion of being in the middle of the countryside. Are you willing to move a little out of town to catch a beautiful sunset? Here are our favorite places: View this post on Instagram The ancient abbey on the outskirts of Milan stands out against a blazing sky, offering an almost mystical backdrop as the sun sets. View this post on Instagram A short distance from Milan, this park offers breathtaking river landscapes. At sunset, the Ticino River transforms into a golden ribbon that meanders through woods and meadows. View this post on Instagram This hilly area north of Milan offers spectacular views of the Lombardy plain. At sunset, the vineyards and woods are tinged with warm colors, creating an almost Tuscan atmosphere. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Desirée 🌻 (@desigarau) Milan gets a bad rap for being an all-work no-play kind of town—especially from visitors who lament the lack of Instagram-ready Renaissance architecture they’d find around every corner in other Italian cities Milan has an energy and sophistication you can’t get anywhere else in Italy Originally opened in 1880, this is Milanese dining at its most traditional — in both décor and cuisine, with terrazzo floors and 19th-century antiques lending an elegant backdrop to the simple (though delicious) menu of classics. “They serve the best risotto al salto and seasonal vegetable tortellini in the city,” says Sozzani. Viale Pasubio 10; anticatrattoriadellapesa.com “This is my secret spot,” Sozzani says about this 16th-century church often overlooked in favor of the tourist-clogged Duomo The Baroque structure is connected to a former Benedictine convent that’s now an archaeological museum with a stunning collection of frescoes by Bernardino Luini and Antonio Campi “A visit to this gallery opens up a world of Italian and international contemporary art, where shows have ranged from Man Ray to Lucio Fontana,” says Sozzani of this complex, a nonprofit opened in 2004 that acts as an all-in-one modern art hub for the city, with exhibits and cultural events throughout the year. via Tadino 15; fondazionemarconi.orgfondazionemarconi.org A modern highrise isn’t the first place you’d expect to visit in Milan but a stop on this skyscraper’s 31st floor is a must for the spectacular views: “This building is architect Gio Ponti’s vision from the ground up displaying a distinct sense of harmony and style has the best views of the city.” Piazza Duca D’Aosta Milan’s finest pastries, chocolate and cappuccinos are served at this iconic institution, opened in 1820. “The panettone from Marchesi is legendary (and it makes very popular gifts at Christmas), and the atmosphere is very old world Milan. Having a coffee at the bar is a quintessential Milanese experience.” Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11/a; pasticceriamarchesi.it “A gift from Prada to the city of Milan,” says Sozzani, of the Italian fashion company’s permanent exhibition center, housed in a 1910 former distillery updated by Rem Koolhaas “with a gorgeous contemporary collection and an amazing cinema space. It’s reason enough to visit Milan. Don’t leave without having an espresso at its cafe, Bar Luce, designed by director Wes Anderson.” Largo Isarco 2; fondazioneprada.org Sozzani loves this Piero Portaluppi-designed, Rationalist mansion-turned-museum because “it feels like stepping into a movie from the 1930s.” Indeed, the structure, completed in 1935, was beautifully shown off in the 2010 film “I Am Love,” where Tilda Swinton played a matriarch presiding over an aristocratic clan, sparking renewed interest in the house. Via Mozart, 14; visitfai.it “Back when my wife, Lara, was a vegetarian, this was one of the only options in Milan, says Bottura. “Luckily, it’s very good. Probably one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Italy.” Chef Pietro Leeman’s dishes — smoked eggplant pâté with buckwheat crepes, tapioca and ratatouille aspic with melon sorbet — are so good that they're just as popular with meat-eaters. Via Panfilo Castaldi 18; joia.it Near the Lambrate railway station, this contemporary art gallery (which also has a branch in London) puts on cutting-edge shows from artists like Nate Lowman, Liu Xiaodong and Dan Colen. “The most recent exhibition by Elmgreen & Dragset was the highlight of the Milan gallery summer scene,” says Bottura. Via Giovanni Ventura; massimodecarlo.com “It’s less a shop than a magical labyrinth,” Bottura says of this design emporium. “Orlandi has been curating design objects for decades and seeks out the most marvelous and unexpected vintage and modern furniture pieces. It also has an adorable restaurant next door, Marta, named after the chef, Marta Pulini.” Via Matteo Bandello 14-16; rossanaorlandi.com The setting here is unique, situated in a freestanding Art Nouveau building among the high-rises of the Porto Garibaldi neighborhood. “Chef Cesare Battisti, a Milan native, prepares authentic Milanese risottos and veal tongue with mashed potatoes. It’s always busy and buzzing, and the outdoor seating area is especially popular.” Via Gaetano de Castillia 26; ratana.it “This farmer’s market in Navigli not only sells some of the best produce, cheese and meat in Milan, but has an amazing selection of Italian street food to try. Mulino Qualia sells their exceptional sourdough bread, for example, made with only organic flour. Shop, drink or eat on the spot and take a walk around the renovated Darsena, Milan’s central canal.” Via Valenza 2; mercatometropolitano.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Milan-based Prada and Versace recently joined forces on a major restoration project of this historic glass and cast iron plaza built in 1865 “an iconic symbol of Milan that’s now showing its true splendor” as Yashar puts it The yearlong enterprise (which included a thorough cleaning of the facade) was finished just in time for this year’s expo In a town not exactly known for remarkable sushi, Iyo is an exception. “It’s the first non-Italian restaurant in Milan to receive a Michelin star,” says Bolle. “It’s not downtown, so it's a bit out of the way, but it’s worth it.” The fusion menu offers traditional nigiri and uramaki, but also langoustines marinated with a passion fruit emulsion and tuna belly sashimi with grated foie gras. Via Piero della Francesca 74; iyo.it “This is a chic, easy spot for lunch or a drink in the evening,” Bolle says of the highly lacquered (and mostly black) space next door to the Dolce & Gabbana men’s shop. A collaboration between the fashion label and the Martini brand, you can guess what the specialty drink is here, but the food (sea urchin spaghettoni, gnocchi with lobster) is worth a visit in itself. Corso Venezia 15; dolcegabbana.com “Chocolat serves only artisanal chocolate gelato, and it is simply the best ice cream in town, without a doubt," says Bolle, who orders the dark chocolate flavor, handmade daily on the premises. It’s also a good spot for breakfast before a day of sightseeing or shopping; get a chocolate croissant. Via Giovanni Boccaccio 9; chocolatmilano.it Located inside La Scala itself — the iconic late-18th-century opera house and home to the city’s ballet company — the shop carries original posters and photographs of performances, composer biographies, CD and DVD recordings of past operas held at the theater and vintage playbills. “It allows for total immersion in La Scala, and to take a piece of it back home with you,” Bolle says. Piazza della Scala; lascalashop.it “This is the first raw, vegan restaurant to open in Milan,” says Bolle, who stops in for healthy lunches — there’s an assortment of entrees from the daikon and asparagus salad to zucchini “spaghetti” with tomato and pesto. There’s also a market that sells all manner of raw nuts, seeds, cold-pressed juices and herbal teas. Via Panfilo Castaldi 21; mantrarawvegan.com Carla Sozzani (see above) founded this retail mecca in 1990, and there’s nothing quite like the multilayered mix of art, fashion, food and energy found here. Think of it as the chicest mini-mall in the world. “Being at 10 Corso Como is almost like visiting a separate neighborhood of Milan,” says Bolle. “It’s lively, young and exciting. Not a typical shopping experience.” Corso Como 10; 10corsocomo.com Located in the Museo del Novecento, Giacomo Arengario is virtually next door to the Duomo, overlooking the cathedral spires on the museum’s third floor, making for “amazing views,” Bolle says. “But the food is fantastic, as well." There's a near-perfect veal Milanese, along with an outstanding Italian wine list. Go at lunch, when it’s less crowded and the views are in full effect. Via Marconi 1; giacomoarengario.com De Cotiis comes to this packed-with-locals restaurant for “amazingly fresh seafood and lovely ambience.” Chef Enrico Buonocore serves just-caught rock lobster and giant langoustines in various forms, but regulars swear by the crudi, which changes daily depending on the day’s catch. For something a bit more formal, try the bistro’s sister restaurant, Langosteria 10, a five-minute walk away. Via Privata Bobbio 2; langosteria10bistrot.it This family-owned cafe is known for its gourmet chocolates, but it’s also the ideal spot for lunch, according to De Cotiis (order the excellent club sandwich or risotto alla Milanese) — the location is right in the middle of the city, within walking distance to the Duomo, La Scala and Galleria Emanuele II. The sleek dining room (marble floors; velvet banquettes) gives this traditional cafe a posh twist. Via Clerici 1; tamilano.it In the Brera district, this boutique (a favorite of fashion editors) is housed in a renovated 19th-century palazzo, the interiors of which were conceived by De Cotiis using polished brass tables and conceptual light fixtures that give the space an almost gallery-like atmosphere for the well-edited apparel and accessories on display from a large range of designers like Balmain, Maison Martin Margiela and Raf Simons. Via Cusani 5; antonia.it De Cotiis picks up innovative, modern floral arrangements from this style world favorite (which regularly provides flowers for virtually all of the Milan-based fashion houses). It also sells wonderful gifts, including fragrances, clothing and accessories from the likes of Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim. Via Croce Rossa 2; tearose.it People usually head to Via Montenapoleone for a fashion fix but De Cotiis comes to Milan’s most famous shopping street for art books located in the huge Armani complex that takes up an entire city block (it includes an Armani-branded florist The architecture and graphic design titles are especially well-curated “I love coming here because it is so unique,” De Cotiis says of this Gothic Renaissance church, a UNESCO World Heritage site built in 1465 and home to da Vinci’s ''The Last Supper.'' “My favorite is the small cloister just behind it, Chiostro delle Rane,” which has a garden courtyard and fountain. “It’s small but so peaceful.” Piazza di Santa Maria delle Grazie; legraziemilano.it “This district is my favorite area of the city for a stroll," says De Cotiis, who suggests simply wandering its ancient streets, ducking into whichever shop looks interesting. “You can still find old craftsmen, workshops and small, traditional Milanese trattoria.” But wherever your wandering takes you, don’t miss Peck, a temple to Italian provisions, including all manner of cheeses, olive oil and cured meats. Via Spadari 9; peck.it • See more T City Guides >> An earlier version of this post misspelled part of the name of a Milanese mansion-turned-museum not Nechi.​The post also misspelled the name of a flower market in Milan and misstated the name of a castle there and the local castle ​is Sforza Castle the ​post misspelled the ​ locations of the cocktail bar Dry and the eatery Alice Ristorante and Alice Ristorante is at Piazza 25 Aprile Gig workers gain flexibility and independence but small or no job safety My web-site :: 다방알바 mobile casino gambling has also been on the risee not too long ago my web-siteweb page Kim Ju-hee has been studying complete time for an exam that feels lioe her only shot at a superior life in South Korea my web page 아가씨 알바 My page 바카라사이트 Grigore adds that the only locatioon that ttea trees develop naturally iss in Australia My web page :: 스웨디시마사지 Feeel free to visit my blog … 전남 스웨디시 Visit my blog – 스웨디시마사지 Also visit my blog :: 소액 대출 It’s thought to promote calmness and relaxation Also visikt my web page: 충남 스웨디시 Also visit my web blog :: site Also visit myy website: 정부지원대출 My website read more Feel free to visit my blog post: 카페 알바 Have a look at my homepage … 여성알바 Feeel free to surf to my homepage http://galleriaskin.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=free&wr_id=102726 the report “Housing Outcomes for Rural and Urban (Off-Reserve) Indigenous Peoples” My webpage … 여성알바 my page 유흥알바 Check out my web page – 온라인카지노 It was usually assumjed that the Federal Wire Act prohibited aall forms of onlione gambling My homepage: 안전토토사이트 Look at my web blog – 바카라 It’s actually a great and helpful piece of info I am happy that you shared this helpful information with us I’m going through some of these issues as well. 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