All UN missions
From school supplies to clothes as well as hygiene products and blankets
UNIFIL Italian peacekeepers recently donated a number of essential items to the population displaced by the ongoing violence across the Blue Line
which is a gift from Italy’s Sant’Antioco Municipality
is the continuation of a support scheme launched last May by the UNIFIL Italian contingent in aid of the displaced population
The UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (UNOCHA) estimates that more than 110,000 Lebanese residents have been displaced from areas close to the Blue Line
Thousands of them live in the nearest city
with efforts from UNIFIL’s Italian contingent
the cities of Tyre and Sant’Antioco signed a twinning agreement
opening doors for cooperation between them
During the donation ceremony of 9 September
"The Italian soldiers have shown that they are bearers of a culture of peace and solidarity that has touched the hearts of us Lebanese
demonstrating sincere feelings of brotherhood through their actions."
Sant’Antioco Mayor Ignazio Locci echoed Mr
"This donation holds special significance," said Mr
adding that the twinning agreement paved a path for strengthening relations between the two Mediterranean cities
"And it is precisely on the basis of this twinning," concluded Mr
we feel particularly close to the population of Tyre and Lebanon
for whom we wanted to promote this project."
In a show of solidarity with UNIFIL’s work in south Lebanon
Ambassadors and representatives of dozens of countries contributing troops to UNIFIL as well as Member States of UN Security Council visited the UN peacekeeping mission’s headquarters and the Blue Line today
In order to mitigate threats posed by unexploded ordnances (UXOs) from the recent conflict to vulnerable communities
UNIFIL’s Indian peacekeepers carried out an awareness campaign recently reaching 220 schoolchildren from three public schools in south Lebanon
With the Lebanese Army gradually redeploying with UNIFIL support across south Lebanon
the two forces have resumed vehicle patrols together along the Blue Line after more than six months
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this glamorous Italian outpost flaunts almost 2000km of white sand and polished pebble coastline - and yet there’s so much more to Sardinia than just its beaches
this sweet little home is set on the scene of salty scents and lapping waves
From fragrant flowerbeds to perfectly trimmed trees
the abundance of foliage here forms a green blanket of privacy around the property
with a generously sized pool shaped like a crescent at its foot
bathroom and living area all share a teal mosaic floor
complemented by bold patterns and block colours on the furnishings
while the snug hanging chair and garden table on the sheltered patio give you the option of outdoor lounging and dining
Sleeps: twoPrice: from around £61 per night
this home captures a rustic zeitgeist of bygone Italian years
the open-plan living space stretches seamlessly from lounge to dining area to kitchen
while the fixed wooden ladder leads to separate double and single bedrooms upstairs
making this stay perfect for small families
photo collages and eclectic sculptures contribute to the jumble of homely decor scattered across both floors
There’s a charming walled garden with dainty white furniture and flourishing potted plants for enjoying the sun
Sleeps: threePrice: from around £54 per night
nestled so deep in the heart of a private vineyard that rolling fields and distant mountain ranges are all visible for miles
Wine aficionados can indulge in the typical Sardinian varieties of red Cannonau and white Vermentino
with guests invited to help with the grape picking during the harvest season
Amenities include a high-speed wifi connection
plus the huge gated pool shared with neighbouring cottages for refreshing dips and sunbathing on the lawn
Sleeps: fourPrice: from around £173 per night
this three-bedroom villa follows a bright white colour scheme with swirls of blue across its lamps
Neat design touches maximise the space with a stylish flair
or wooden bedroom doors opening directly onto the infinity pool
a traditional stone barbecue and a plethora of pretty hidden nooks decked out with cosy chairs and unmatched ocean views
which remind you that the crystal-clear waters really are on your doorstep
Sleeps: sixPrice: from around £382 per night
where a birds-eye view reveals the clever hilltop illusion of the pool suspended in the air
The kitchen alone encapsulates the enchanting rural aesthetic
rooms here are practical as well as pleasing to the eye
All three double bedrooms are homely yet uncluttered
while the games tent provides plenty of entertainment for all ages
equipped with ping pong and foosball tables
warmly welcoming their guests with accessibility information pre-booking and complimentary local produce upon arrival
Sleeps: sixPrice: from around £206 per night
the identical aesthetic shifts to a somewhat futuristic vibe
Each ensuite bedroom is bright white and bare
and pop of colour from the matching curtain-pillow combo
Don’t miss the swish rooftop jacuzzi either
positioned primely for sunset views over the white-sand
cobalt-sea beaches of the port village below
Sleeps: eightPrice: from around £1,626 per night
Sleeps: eightPrice: from around £852 per night, with a three-night minimum
Delegates from pilgrimage associations across 16 countries will be converging on Malta for a Camino conference that will be the first to be held outside Santiago de Compostela
Brought over by the fledgling XirCammini
a local voluntary hiking organisation that focuses on the spiritual and historical aspects of ancient pilgrimage routes
the Camino Europa Compostela general assembly will be held in Rabat in May
XirCammini is one of the first members of Camino Europa Compostela
born of the Federation of Camino Associations
“Malta has been actively trying to position itself as a prime faith tourism destination for several years – justifiably so because it is a cradle of Christian faith
with routes tied to the apostolic visit of St Paul and also to the reign of the Knights of St John,” XirCammini founder James Portelli said
Spiritual tourism had huge potential and this sector of special-interest travel was getting a lot of attention abroad
has grown from its “very humble start”
taking the international congress outside Spain for the first time in almost 40 years and attracting close to 100 delegates from 24 associations to Malta
“This will give us the opportunity to showcase the island and the heritage of the Knights of St John – and their connection with the Camino de Santiago – to the presidents of all the European delegations
the leaders and movers in their respective countries,” Portelli continued
which focuses on faith and heritage Caminos
was driven by the fact that spiritual tourism had huge potential and that this sector of special-interest travel was getting a lot of attention abroad
Participants on the Cammino di Sant’ Antioco
part of the Sardinia segment of the longest Camino de Santiago
Supported by the Malta Tourism Authority and Heritage Malta
it has rolled out five walks since its inception
including the long-distance Camino Maltés de Santiago de Compostela
ending in the leading Catholic pilgrimage destination
The Malta segment of the route – a 34-kilometre heritage trail from Mdina to Vittoriosa – includes a revived ancient route
700 pilgrims of over 15 nationalities from the US across Europe and Asia to Australia and New Zealand have walked the Maltese segment
they go through 10 localities over some eight hours
Among the participants are those passionate about faith-based heritage trails
as well as people who happen to be on holiday
hear about it and ask to join while they are here
The revived 500-year-old pilgrimage is complete with a website
and was considered a “novel attraction” for locals and foreigners alike
historically known as the Mixja ta’ San Girgor
was launched after the pandemic for modern-day pilgrims
“We are constantly innovating to be ahead of the pack in faith and heritage
slow and green tourism in Malta and beyond,” Portelli said
Close to 500,000 people walk the Camino de Santiago and obtain the Compostela Certificate each year
the number of Maltese pilgrims to Santiago
please register for free or log in to your account
a unique yarn-making textile tradition from the past history is struggling for survival
obtained from the giant muscle shell of Pinna Nobilis
the greatest bivalve mule from the Mediterranean Sea
a shell that is risking extinction since the early 1990s
Photo: Ecomuseo del Bisso Facebook page Byssus fiber and a knitted piece “Byssus cannot be sold nor bought
the craftswoman who learnt the art of producing this precious and rare yarn from her grandmother
And despite some rare examples of the survival of this craft in the Mediterraneans area
she seems to be the only person who keeps this art alive
taught for 28 generations within her family
This shell - rough in outer part and inner rich of mother-of-pearl - hosts a tasty muscle that men have been hunting for and octopuses
the shell produces a special keratin-rich substance that helps to keep the shell sealed
That same substance when getting in touch with water becomes solid in the form of a filament
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini Tools for byssus yarn making This special substance can be picked - while keeping the shell alive and preserving it - in very small quantities every year and only in a few months of the year
The fiber that is obtained from it looks like shiny weightless
and then used for manufacturing precious fabrics or unique embroideries woven with nails between warp and weft
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini Chiara Vigo embroidering byssus using her nails Byssus has been manufactured since the earliest days of mankind as it is known to have been first mastered by the ancient Egyptian during the Neolithic
the Israelite tribes and other populations through the Mediterranean
some steps of the Bible mention this very precious fabric ever since worn by kings
emperors and other worthy personalities in the form of finely manufactured garments and accessories
From about 250 grams of the fiber in its rough form
they can obtain 30 grams of clean fiber that can be transformed into 21 meters of yarns
Vigo has also developed special dyeing techniques that only use natural origin substances obtained from herbs and flowers
then fixed and finished with other chemical-free non-harmful substances
Vigo created and donated various works to ancient universities
in-keeping with the DNA of this fiber that is a heritage for humanity and must be preserved
Photo: Maria Cristina Pavarini Linen cloth decoded with byssus embroidery woven within the fabric She also recreated a special piece of cloth
entirely made with byssus that reproduces what very probably used to be worn by King Solomon as she was contacted by a group of Israeli archeologists
It took her five years to produce the small 12 x 15 cm piece of cloth - three to collect the byssus fiber and two to make it
It also took her seven years to produce a man’s tie for her husband
a single seamless piece entirely based upon needle work
Photo: Ecomuseo del Bisso Facebook page A reproduction of an antique byssus piece of cloth A few years ago
she had established a museum in Sant’Antioco through which she could spread information about the art of byssus and the know-how of ancient textile arts
but it had to close as smaller museums had to reach specific turnovers and guarantee economic returns
is the last depositary of this craftsmanship
She finances her activities through private offers
knowledge and mission to younger generations
She has gathered around her some alumni from different parts of the world willing to learn not only the art of manufacturing and preserving byssus
but also antique crafts like those of hand-weaving - she does on a ’700s old loom - eco-friendly fabric dyeing
Photo: Ecomuseo del Bisso Facebook page Chiara Vigo “What I am doing is not for me
but for teaching the world a know-how that belongs to the whole mankind and cannot be lost
and for teaching how important it is to preserve and respect the environment
so muchmore could be done through a more properly structured activity," she explained while showing kids who come to visit her every day how to hand-weave small bracelets and fabric pieces
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is one of the most coveted materials in the world – but after more than 1,000 years in the same matrilineal family tree
under the cover of darkness and guarded by members of the Italian Coast Guard
62-year-old Chiara Vigo slips on a white tunic
recites a prayer and plunges headfirst into the crystalline sea off the tiny Sardinian island of Sant’Antioco
Vigo descends up to 15m below the surface to reach a series of secluded underwater coves and grassy lagoons that the women in her family have kept secret for the past 24 generations
She then uses a tiny scalpel to carefully trim the razor-thin fibres growing from the tips of a highly endangered Mediterranean clam known as the noble pen shell
It takes about 100 dives to harvest 30g of usable strands
which form when the mollusc’s secreted saliva comes in contact with salt water and solidifies into keratin
it’s one of the rarest and most coveted materials in the world
– The last mermaids of Japan
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Vigo is believed to be the last person on Earth who still knows how to harvest
dye and embroider sea silk into elaborate patterns that glisten like gold in the sunlight
Women in Mesopotamia used the exceptionally light fabric to embroider clothes for their kings some 5,000 years ago
It was harvested to make robes for King Solomon
mentioned 45 times in the Old Testament and thought to be the material that God commanded Moses to drape on the altar in the Tabernacle
No-one is precisely sure how or why the women in Vigo’s family started weaving byssus
patterns and dying formulas of sea silk have been passed down through this astonishing thread of women – each of whom has guarded the secrets tightly before teaching them to their daughters
After an invitation to visit Vigo’s one-room studio
I suddenly found myself face-to-face with the last surviving sea silk seamstress
watching her magically spin solidified clam spit into gold
I slowly approached the small wooden table where Vigo worked
glass jars filled with murky indigo and amber potions and a certificate confirming her highest order of knighthood from the Italian Republic cast aside on the floor
“But you’d have to stay here for a lifetime to understand it.”
Italy's last sea silk masterVigo learned the ancient craft from her maternal grandmother
who taught traditional wool weaving techniques on manual looms to the women of Sant’Antioco for 60 years
She remembers her grandmother paddling her into the ocean in a rowboat to teach her to dive when she was three years old
My grandmother wove in me a tapestry that was impossible to unwind“My grandmother wove in me a tapestry that was impossible to unwind,” Vigo said
you must devote your life to learning the techniques from the existing master
She is bound by a sacred ‘Sea Oath’ that maintains that byssus should never be bought or sold
despite weaving works for display in the Louvre
Vigo doesn’t have a single piece of byssus in her home
She lives in a modest apartment with her husband
and they live off his pension as a coal miner and donations from visitors who stop by Vigo’s studio
Vigo explained that the only way to receive byssus is as a gift
She’s created pieces for Pope Benedict XVI and the Queen of Denmark
but more often than not she embroiders designs for newlywed couples
children celebrating a christening and women who come to her in hopes of becoming pregnant
Selling it would be like trying to profit from the sun or the tides“Byssus doesn’t belong to me
“Selling it would be like trying to profit from the sun or the tides.”
But that hasn’t stopped people from trying
until the 1930s the only other place besides Sant’Antioco where the tradition of sea silk harvesting and embroidering continued was the city of Taranto
“A woman there forsake the Sea Oath and tried to establish a commercial byssus industry,” Biniecka said
it went bankrupt and she mysteriously died.”
a Japanese businessman approached Vigo with an offer to purchase her most famous piece
It took Vigo four years to stitch the glimmering 45x45cm design with her fingernails
“The women of the world are not for sale.”
Neither is the painstaking process behind her pieces
which she slowly revealed during my four-day visit
After harvesting raw byssus from the depths of the sea
she desalts the fibres by submerging them in fresh water for 25 days
she cleans the threads with a carding brush to remove any remaining sediment
Then comes the hardest part: separating each strand of pure sea silk from the tangle of raw byssus
Because sea silk is three times finer than a strand of human hair
Vigo peers through a lamp with a magnifying glass as she delicately plucks each thread of silk using a pair of tweezers
“But my fingers have been practicing this for 50 years.”
On several occasions after Vigo extracted a thick tuft of fibres
she ordered me to close my eyes and extend my hand
I’d open my eyes to see Vigo rolling a weightless cloud of sea silk back and forth on my palm
she twists the silk manually around a small wooden spindle
usually singing in Sardo – the closest living form of Latin – during the process
she grabs a jar of cloudy yellowish liquid from the shelf
dropping the thin thread into a secret concoction of lemon
the thread becomes elastic and she excitedly ushered me outside to show how it shimmered in the sunlight
Vigo has an encyclopaedic knowledge of 124 natural dye variations made from fruits
Vigo intertwines the spun silk into the linen warp using her fingernails
It takes 15 straight days of extracting and dying raw byssus to create enough threads to weave just a few centimetres
like a 50x60cm cloth of pure sea silk weighing just 2g
like the larger tapestries draped atop her loom depicting Biblical passages and pagan deities
eight of which will never be written and have been passed down orally from generation to generation,” she said
But after more than 1,000 years in the same matrilineal family tree
the heir to the byssus secrets is Vigo’s youngest daughter
Vigo began teaching her how to dive and embroider at an early age
“The only thing she’s missing is the formulas for the dye potions,” Vigo told me
But there’s a problem: “My mother and I are very different,” Maddalena said from her home in Dublin
where she’s been living for the past two years
“People have always told me that I’d be a fool to allow this art to die
What’s more, after creating the world’s only museum dedicated to byssus in 2005, Vigo awoke one day last autumn to find that the government of Sant’Antioco had unexpectedly closed her free Museo del Bisso
citing that the building’s electrical system wasn’t up to code
“The ‘electrical problem’ was me!” Vigo snapped
“The municipality tried to force me to charge entrance fees and write down my patterns and secrets
But I will defend this sacred oath with my fingernails as long as I breathe!”
The secrets may die with me, but the silk of the sea will live onThe news drew national attention, spurring an online petition that garnered nearly 20,000 signatures – including that of the President of Sardinia – to no avail
two young artists started a crowdfunding campaign to help Vigo rent the one-room studio where she now works
it’s the same room where Vigo’s grandmother taught her how to spin sea silk 50 years ago
Unless they can raise €85,000 to purchase the rent-to-own property by November 2018
the town will evict her and the world will no longer be able to watch its last sea silk seamstress spin byssus into gold
she led me to a secluded cove where women in her family have prayed for as long as she can remember
pulled out a clump of 300-year-old byssus from a vial
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Cascà photo on the cover: @Sardinia Country
flavorful and with a texture that is delicious to the palate: this is couscous
which has therefore successfully found its way into many food cultures
on the northern shore of the Mediterranean
We are talking in particular about the gastronomic culture of Carloforte (as of today between 5,000 and 6,000 inhabitants) and Calasetta (3,000)
two beautiful seaside towns on the Island of San Pietro and the Island of Sant'Antioco
these two small islands are a year-round tourist destination
gastronomic excellence and an extraordinary grape variety
which often grows free-range and gives brilliant and intense red wines
Carloforte and Calasetta were founded in the eighteenth century by Genoese exiles
they had settled there two centuries earlier
to trade and fish coral; by the eighteenth century relations with the Tunisians had deteriorated so they returned to the Kingdom of Sardinia
founding first Carloforte (1738) on the desert island of San Pietro
Since then these stubborn and resilient fishermen and farmers have never abandoned the Genoese language
which is an interesting contamination of Genoese cuisine
Sardinian cuisine and precisely Tunisian cuisine
And this is where the cascà carlofortino precisely comes in
an identity dish that is celebrated every year with a fine gastronomic festival
interpreted according to the sensibility of this population of Ligurians transplanted to Sardinia
Carlofort people are said to be as good farmers as they are fishermen
mentioned as early as a 1931 Italian Touring Club cookbook
following the seasons; in winter it is full of cabbage and leafy greens
in spring and summer it is colored with broad beans
nourishing dish with little expense since practically all Tabarchans have a garden in the village
others meat; there are as many variations as there are families in this seaside village
where even the children speak a kind of ancient Genoese
and know nursery rhymes and ditties now forgotten in the motherland
also celebrated in an annual festival that attracts thousands of visitors
The preparation of the cascà consists of placing the semolina on a smooth surface (or a large earthenware bowl)
pouring lukewarm water by sprinkling it and exerting a rotating action with the hand that causes the semolina to agglomerate into small balls
After forming the cascà this is left to rest before being stewed and then seasoned with seasonal vegetables and legumes previously sautéed and then stewed with spices to taste
Pilaf or pilau originally was an oriental rice-based preparation enriched with meat
Historical sources indicate that “pilaf” designates the cooking method rather than an ingredient
a delightful village whose houses are painted white and blue
it denotes a preparation of couscous (called scucuzù) with a tasty red sauce with shellfish and/or fish
after sautéing garlic and onion and fresh tomatoes (or peeled or pureed tomatoes)
to add other crustaceans or small fish as an alternative to the spider crab and cichalas
depending on what was available at the fishmonger's counter
a way to consume without waste what the fishermen of Calasetta brought home
when ecology and sustainability were a necessity to make ends meet
Do you want to discover the latest news and recipes of the most renowned chefs and restaurants in the world
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and gaining respect in Chile and California
this workhorse grape is a becoming a flagship variety – and there are good reasons for that
Carignan – or Cariñena and Mazuelo as it’s known in its source area of Aragon in Spain – has its own appellation in Sardinia
where the grape is prized for first-rate wines in a range of styles
This was shown during a masterclass on 11 October
where the UK wine trade were offered a day of tastings beamed lived from Italy to London
Among these was a showcase for Carignano del Sulcis DOC
an appellation in the southwest of Sardinia and its two nearby islands
which is connected to Sardinia by a road bridge
is notable for its extremely sandy vineyards
although such soils can be found along all the coastal sites of the Carignano del Sulcis DOC
Such a basis for vines is extremely important
because it has ensured the root-eating phylloxera louse that devastated the vineyards of Europe in the late nineteenth century has never been able to damage the plants in these seaside sites – the bug doesn’t like sandy soils
this area of Sardinia is home to one of Europe’s largest collection of pre-phylloxera vines
allowing vignerons in Carignano del Sulcis DOC to make wines from extremely old
this means that the region is home to viticulture as it was practised 150 years ago
with ungrafted Carignano trained in the traditional Albarello system (pictured below)
Carignano del Sulcis DOC is notable for the style of wines that are produced
which range from easy-drinking light rosatos and reds
tasting Carignano del Sulcis is a revelation
as it can be fleshy and relatively concentrated
dry tannic component in the most powerful wines
Helping Carginano achieve greatness is this part of Sardinia is not just the age of the vines
dry and windy conditions yielding concentrated
next time you consider Carignan or Mazuelo
remember that Sardinia is home to delicious and distinctive examples
celebrated as part of a special DOC carrying the grape’s name: Carignano del Sulcis
I’ve picked out a few examples to try below
while fully aware that this grape does reach heights elsewhere in the world
South Africa (Pederberg) and California (Mendocino
how did Mazuelo end up in Sardinia – where
it is also sometimes called Bovale di Spagno
it is believed that the grape was brought from its native home of Aragon by the Spanish
who ruled over the now Italian island from 1323 to 1720
no doubt due to its ability to withstand Sardinia’s dry and hot climate
low-pH wines despite the harsh conditions – a result of its late-budding and late-ripening nature
A pale peach wine with a slightly oily mouthfeel
affordable (sub £20) red made from ungrafted vines – some of which are over 100 years old – grown on the sandy soils of Sant’Antioco
and made by the Cantina Sardus Pater cooperative
followed by persistent notes of cracked black pepper and dried herbs
A flagship Sardinian Carignano created by the late
great Italian wine consultant Giacomo Tachis
who worked with the Santadi cooperative from 1984
and French oak barriques – where the wine ages for 18 months – this is a powerful
complex and impressive red with a relatively high price tag (around £55)
Flavour-wise there is lots of sweet black cherry
A fascinating sweet wine from Carignano made from dried grapes to yield something warming (15% abv) and rich
then a touch of candied orange and dry tannin to balance the intensely sweet mid-palate
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Lightering operations have begun for the stranded freighter CDRY Blue
which ran aground on a rocky shore in Sant'Antioco
Smit Salvage has been appointed lead salvor and is overseeing the work in cooperation with the Guardia Costiera and the local port authority.
The pollution-prevention plan calls for bunkers and other petroleum on board the CRDY Blue to be pumped into special containers on deck
the containers will be flown off by helicopter
The process is expected to take several days; once defueling is complete
attention will turn to lightering off the ship's cargo and the salvage of the vessel herself.
One spill response vessel and two patrol boats are standing by at the scene to monitor for signs of pollution
The Guardia Costiera has conducted multiple dive surveys of the seabed under the CRDY Blue's hull to monitor her condition.
the bulker CDRY Blue went aground on a rocky shore on the coast of Sardinia
forcing the evacuation of her crew and the launch of a pollution-prevention effort
the CDRY Blue was seeking shelter from stormy weather when she went aground on a shoal between Porto Sciusciau and Capo Sperone
in the Sant'Antioco area of southwestern Sardinia
the Cagliari Harbor Office launched an effort to rescue the crew
It dispatched two patrol boats and one helicopter from the Guarda Costiera to the scene
Due to unfavorable conditions and 50 knot winds
the helicopter aircrew was not immediately able to hoist the seafarers off the vessel
it returned and managed to rescue all 12 members of the CDRY Blue's crew.
Prosegue l’attività di monitoraggio del #4 ° nucleo sub#Guardia Costiera #Cagliari a tutela dell'ambiente marino circostante lamotonave CDRY BLUE, incagliata sulla costa Sud-Ovest dell'isola diSant'Antioco. pic.twitter.com/EEMPPKqQvT
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a 108 m long merchant ship flying the Italian flag from Cagliari and heading for Alicante
ran aground on the south-west coast of Sardinia and more precisely in Torre Cannai Municipality of Sant’Antioco
Under the coordination of the Maritime Directorate of Cagliari
the Coast Guard air and naval vessels were immediately sent to the scene: two patrol boats specialized in search and rescue and a NEMO helicopter in force at the 4th Helicopter Section of the Coast Guard of Decimomannu
due to poor visibility and prohibitive weather conditions – with gusts of wind up to 50 knots – it was not possible to recover the 12 crew members on board during the night
despite the fact that an additional Air Force helicopter was it has also been used in operations
At the first light of dawn – despite the persisting bad weather conditions – the NEMO helicopter of the Coast Guard managed to rescue all the seafarers present on board with three successive sorties
transporting them to a square adjacent to the Office Circondariale Marittimo di Sant’Antioco
for the occasion equipped as a collection and assistance point
Regional Civil Protection and Fire Brigade personnel
through a tug that left the port of Cagliari and patrols from the ground of the local Maritime District Office
the ship’s monitoring activities continue to be monitored on the spot to check its stability and any oil spills
All operations are constantly monitored and monitored by the Coast Guard General Command Operations Center
Dall’elicottero NEMO della #GuardiaCostiera, le immagini del recupero di uno dei membri dell’equipaggio della CDRY BLUE, la motonave che nella serata di ieri si è incagliata sulla costa di Sant’Antioco, in Sardegna. #SAR pic.twitter.com/WWgOjr68SZ
— Guardia Costiera (@guardiacostiera) December 22, 2019
— Guardia Costiera (@guardiacostiera) December 22, 2019
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Andrew Jefford visits Italy’s ‘other’ wine island and discovers four reasons (or more) to take it seriously..
but the heart of Sardinia was still vividly green at the end of March
A chaos of hills rippled away in every direction (almost 70 per cent of the island’s landmass is hilly
with just under 14 per cent classified as mountainous)
echoing to the sound-mosaic of hundreds of sheep bells
roughly half the national herd and source of most of the milk for Italy’s Pecorino Romano PDO cheese
Some 80 per cent of the cork produced in Italy
This is the Mediterranean’s second largest island – pipped only by a Sicilian whisker; its southerly neighbour is just six per cent bigger
Sardinia is only Italy’s fourteenth largest region (Sicily
Their fascinating wines deserve to be better known
The first is Vermentino: maybe the world’s best
That’s a question which merits a separate answer – which I’ll try to provide in a later blog
Italy in general grows much less of this variety than does France (Carignan) or Spain (Mazuelo
but I suspect that many Languedocien wine growers
would be shocked to discover the rich textures and flavours which this variety can acquire in Sardinia
Carignan is often a piercing alto in Languedoc
and best blended; in Sardinia it can be warm and comforting bass
Never better than in the sandy soils of Sulcis
and especially on the large island of Sant’Antioco (Italy’s fourth largest in its own right)
connected to the Sardinian mainland by a bridge
that much Carignano de Sulcis is ungrafted
I’d be surprised if Sardinian Carignano didn’t feature somewhere in the top twenty of any serious competitive blind tasting of this variety
Italian plantings of this variety are dwarfed by Spain’s Garnacha stocks and France’s walletful of Grenache – but Sardinia’s efforts with the variety are of compelling interest
The variety is grown in a number of different locations and different soils
but the best for me came from the granite uplands around Nuoro
and particularly the lonely village of Mamoiada
the variety sheds its lowland sweetness and takes on an airy freshness and stony purity
the kind of mountain Grenache which tiptoes gracefully into Pinot territory
can be a wine of unusual completeness and authority for this variety
That would be Sardinia’s own indigenous varieties (it claims up to 150) and specialities (including both sweet
dry and botrytised Malvasia di Bosa; as well as the complex
Genetic intricacy is always of interest for its own sake
and I enjoyed the examples I tried of these rare varieties
often salvaged with great efforts (including the white Arvisionadu
At least I thought that the twelve just mentioned were all indigenous — but a little research after I got home in Robinson
Harding and Vouillamoz’s Wine Grapes suggested that Bovale Mannu and Bovale Grande are in fact the same as Carignano
Bovale Sardo and Cagnulari are identical to Graciano
one of the island’s leading viticultural researchers
says that Bovale Mannu is in fact another synonym for Graciano
while Muristellu and Bovaleddu are not in fact Graciano but a different variety altogether
Cagnulari certainly seemed to make the most interesting wines after Vermentino
Carignano and Cannonau – in a rather less stern and more voluptuous guise than Graciano can often assume
Canny readers will have noted just how much vine material Sardinia seems to share with Spain
and this is usually attributed to a long period of Aragonese rule in Sardinia (between the arrival of the Catalan army under Crown Prince Alfonso of Aragon in 1324 and the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713)
Catalan is still spoken in the northwestern Sardinian port of Alghero
point out that the trading Phoenicians may have been moving these grape varieties around before the Aragonese ever arrived – and they would dearly love to prove that Cannonau is in fact an indigenous variety which the Aragonese took back to Spain
no comprehensive genetic proof of this – though some 2010 research by Manna Crespan and others claimed that Cannonau is more genetically diverse than Spanish Grenache
Other researchers cited by the Wine Grapes authors
The question will be tussled over for a while yet
I haven’t mentioned the usual plethora of DO and IGT names since the island’s leading wines usually contain the variety name in the DO or IGT formula
pan-Sardinian IGT ‘Isola dei Nuraghi’ — since no such island can be found in any atlas
It’s a cultural reference to the mysterious towers called Nuraghe which dot Sardinia
and which date back to 730 BCE to 1900 BCE
was that since ‘Sardegna’ already featured in a number of DOC formulae
would have been more helpful to consumers than sending them scurrying off for an island which doesn’t exist
made from 100-year-old ungrafted bush vines on the island of Sant’Antioco and exposed to the ‘salty wind’ that gives the wine its Sardinian name
The palate is very deep and fleshy for Carignan
This is a much lighter wine than the Bentesali (50 year old vines and with 10 per cent Monica)
yet it has superb concentration and tannic grip behind the rose
produced from selected Sedilesu bush vines of 50 years or more in the best years only
harvested in October and given a month’s maceration
crushed stone and perfumed plum skins is followed by a dense
seems to explode in the mouth and send granite shards
force-of-nature wine is magnificent now but will surely see out a decade or two without trouble
Some Sardinian Cagnulari can be very savoury
but the Siddùra version is full of peppery fruits
smooth-textured flavours – yet it grows in complexity and stature with time in the mouth; the finish is stony
even tarry: this Cagulari smells nocturnal and byzantine
with both red and black fruit notes freighted with more exotic incense spice
and both satisfying and refreshing to drink
A masterful rendition of what can often be a difficult grape to vinify
with complex scents: both sweet and savoury
it is another wine which seems smooth and rich when you first sip
but which acquires texture and flavoury grain as it lingers in the mouth
An astonishing young Cagnulari: intoxicating primary fruit and flower aromas come storming from the glass
lush and luscious wine of huge exuberance and impact
There is ample tannin to counterbalance its very sweet style of fruit (though the producer assures me the wine contains no residual sugar)
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Mario L. Major
Nelly Dietzel and Luigi Garavaglia /ChiaraVigo
just off the Italian coast of Sicilia sits Museo del Bisso
home to the artist Chiara Vigo who makes truly unique works of art from a rare product extracted from the sea referred to as byssus
When one understands the intricate process and work involved in harvesting the sea silk and transforming it
it becomes clear why Vigo is believed to be the only living person in the world able to produce items made from sea silk
The process starts with Vigo making several dives to harvest the sea silk from molluscs—the result of the mollusc’s saliva reacting with the salt water in the sea produced keratin
which makes it fortunate that only Vigo may be using it
dried and prepared for the enormous task of separating the fine sea silk from the thick clump
which is where her fifty years of experience
precision and attention to detail become invaluable
The silk is then threaded and woven on a loom which has been used for more than 200 years in her family
The weaving and dying process can take any time from a few days to a few years depending on the size of the cloth and the combination of dyes used—the artist possesses in excess of not only 100 dye combinations
some of which she says she plans to never share
is the same: a unique piece which glistens like gold when sunlight shines through it
Vigo has a unique philosophy about the value of byssus: “Byssus doesn’t belong to me
“Selling it would be like trying to profit from the sun or the tides.” Vigo believes that the only conditions under which byssus can be given are as a gift
Weaving sea silk is considered a great honor
and it involves a series of rituals passed down in the 1,000 years the tradition has existed in Vigo’s family
the next person in line to learn the process takes a vow to safely guard the information about how to weave the sea silk
the person makes a vow to pass the knowledge of how to construct the intricate designs down to the next generation—only one person is chosen for this honor
Vigo says of her commitment to the tradition: “My grandmother wove in me a tapestry that was impossible to unwind…Since then
As is the case of oral tradition and other traditions which are passed down over many generations
tracing origins accurately can be a challenge
but a rich history which unites the women in her family and an ancient tradition which spans the ages
Via: Ask Nature, BBC
0COMMENTABOUT THE AUTHORMario L. Major <p>Mario Major is a professional writer
He divides his time between the US and Turkey and brings his educational and linguistic background to his projects
he is lending his writing and editing skills to Interesting Engineering and working on his first manuscript
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The world of water sports on stage at the beginning of June in South Sardinia at the Calasetta Water sports Festival
and kayak will be the protagonists at La Salina beach in top-level sports and promotional events: the highlight will be the IFCA Junior and Youth Slalom World Championships
but also of important cultural and musical events for a start to the summer season dedicated to the sea
Just over two months to go until the 2023 edition of the Calasetta Water sports Festival
an event that from 2 to 18 June will offer a series of events
which will be both sporting/educational/promotional and cultural and musical
The most important event from a competitive point of view will be the IFCA Slalom Windsurfing World Championship for the Junior and Youth categories (around 150 athletes are expected from 5 to 11 June)
which follows the European Championship organised last year
by the Circolo Nautico Marinai d’Italia Sant’Antioco
affiliated with the Italian Sailing Federation as well as the Water Skiing
which is once again set to organise the highest class championship in a location
considered a true paradise for water sports and windsurfing in particular
Registration for the World Championship opened a few days ago
with teams from all over the world starting to plan the Sardinian trip
which will certainly keep participants and companions on the island of Sant’Antioco for much longer than the five days of competition
But before and after the Slalom World Championship
as well as for activities with the disabled
the Italian SUP Racing and Paddleboard Championships will be held from 2 to 4 June
with the Calasetta-Carloforte and Calasetta-Sant’Antioco crossings also planned
routes that will be chosen according to weather conditions
it will be the turn of the world’s top youth windsurfing slalom discipline: an opportunity to see the world’s best under-17 and under-21 riders racing to the sound of jibes and glides
the discipline that has seen a real boom in the last two seasons will be on stage: there will be promotional activities to get closer to wing foil
the sport that is going crazy in seas all over the world
But there will also be a moment dedicated to those who are less fortunate and face life with disabilities: thanks to the cooperation with “Gli equilibristi Onlus” it will be possible to propose Ocean racing Kayak activities with disabled people on 15 June
kite surfing and its educational proposals will fly
the Calasetta Water Sports Festival will close with a competition of the Regional Ocean Racing Kayak Championship
The La Salina beach will be bursting with liveliness
offering ‘full’ days from morning to evening
when the cultural activities (still to be defined in detail) will come into play
bringing Calasetta to life not only on the beach
It will be a start to the summer season dedicated to nature
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I arrived at the threshold of this poem by Oliveros through a citation in a poem by Michael Swaine that was part of a book I was recently proofreading
which had been accompanied by illustrations from Charles Darwin’s controversial 1881 manuscript
more popularly known as The Habits of Worms
Through his experimentation and observations
Darwin had concluded the following: “It may be doubted if there are any other animals which have played such an important part in the history of the world as these lowly organised creatures.”
remarks upon how the five-headed serpent wrapped around an orange lingam-shaped termite hill denotes 15 half-counts (drut)
‘essentially fast beats followed by a slow then slower one.’ “Without any other clues
one can imagine how this rhythm replicates the quick repetitive knocking of termites’ heads on the walls of their hill
which then slow and pick up again…” I learned
that termites allegedly always build their mounds angled or titled towards the sun
author of Underbug: An Obsessive Tale of Termites and Technology
wrote marvellously about this orientational strategy
“as if the termite has computed its own position in the solar system
We need stories to understand ourselves,” Rushdie says something that sounds profound but is
“We are the only creature that does this unusual thing
Telling each other stories in order to try and understand the kind of creature that we are.” I found this observation grounded in a form of superiority
yet flagrant inability to imagine other forms of story-telling by other-than-human life forms
is an ode to all the narrative energy that exists in the cosmos that can be experienced and encountered by cultivating a practice of deep listening
“Sound is the fibre of my being and of all sentient beings without exception,” she writes
These days I have been thinking a lot about what it means, as a feminist art critic
to ‘listen to’ and excavate stories that were consciously kept outside of our range of hearing
How do we put our ears to non-cis-het-white-male ground to uncover alterity
to tune into frequencies that have been institutionally dismissed and discarded
cast off for not falling into male-prescribed norms of what art is supposed to look like
If even the definition of who gets to be an artist is now defined by the validation of an institutionalised education
how do we conceive of reparative re-considerations of female artistic and intellectual labour
Does it demand of us to completely transform our received understanding of who gets to call themselves an artist
On a warm, humid early July afternoon, at the Museo del Bisso, in Sant'Antioco, Sardinia
thanks to a field trip organised by the Sardinian Film Commission
that she didn’t consider herself an artist but a maestro
which reminded me of a quote I had come across attributed to Meera Mukherjee
who spent her life working with all manner of people who are not conventionally considered to be artists
Mukherjee preferred to call herself an artisan
an artist primarily aspires for recognition and status as an artist
while an artisan aspires to link life and art into one inseparable entity
This was the premise of Vigo’s lifework
possibly around up to 17 yards deep into a location off the coast of Sardinia that is home to giant mollusks (Pinna nobilis)
which secrete a fibrous saliva in order to attach themselves to the seafloor
which harden into a silky filament upon touching sea water
Vigo preciously fetches this hairy filament
retrieving it carefully without in any way endangering the mollusk
Which means she may have to dive in multiple times to gather about a single once
trimming the byssus from each bivalve with a tiny scalpel
and strictly adhering to her sea oath prevents her
inherited as a family secret kept by the women over at least 24 generations
like many ancestrally practised female traditions
her art exists outside of capitalist networks that cater to demand and supply
Vigo sustains herself from whatever visitors leave in a box in her studio
She performs demonstrations of her entire process
thus engaging in a form of transparency about every detail relating to it
to how she spins it into a thread-like form
then dips it into a saline solution into which she chants a prayer
She insists that her sound intervention is what activates the molecular components of the organic solution
constituted by the silk thread she has spun which glints in the sunlight
he was only allowed to listen to her perform the surbahar at night
it seems like it would have been the most mystical time to hear her
“When I play at night once in a while I smell the sweetest seasonal flowers in this very room,” she had told Swapan Kumar Bondyopadhyay
who published a book titled Annapurna Devi—An Unheard Melody
“The smell comes and envelops me from nowhere
I saw the half-hidden face of a sweet woman draped in a white sari
She appeared again and again but not for once could I see her full face.” Annapurna Devi believed in the power invested in sound
if you can get your mind tuned peacefully to the eternal
(Disclaimer: The views and opinion expressed here are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the official position of STIR or its Editors.)
editor and researcher currently based in the Italian Alps
She is the author of A Handbook for My Lover (HarperCollins India
D’Mello writes a weekly feminist column for mid-day
and a monthly memoir-based art column on contemporary art for STIRworld
She was a fellow atKünstlerhaus Büchsenhausen
Venice (2021) and the recipient of an India Foundation for the Arts research grant (2019–2022)
Her writing has been internationally published and anthologised
most recently in Future Library: The Red Hen Anthology of Contemporary Indian Writing (2023)
When a famed Indian artist used a protest poet’s words without credit
it raised a deeper question: who gets to speak
The veteran curator on the Sharjah Biennial 16 and collection-building as history-writing
This selling exhibition has been conceived as a collaboration between WWF
to further ocean conservation initiatives across the UK
A museum at Cambridge University examines Britain’s role in the transatlantic slave trade between 1750-1850
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by Rosalyn D`Mello | Published on : Aug 21
Sea silk sounds like the stuff of legend. Harvested from rare clams, this thread flashes gold in the sunlight, weighs almost nothing, and comes with a heavy load of misunderstanding, misinterpretation, and misinformation
Its flaxen strands come from Pinna nobilis
a giant Mediterranean mollusk that measures up to a yard in length
To attach themselves to rocks or the seafloor
harden into a silky filament called byssus
The byssus of the pen shell makes sea silk
The BBC reports that only one person alive knows how to spin this clam fluid into golden twine
62-year-old Chiara Vigo dives up to 17 yards deep
into a network of secret underwater caves off the coast of Sardinia
As the Italian Coast Guard watches protectively from the shore
she may dive 100 times to produce a single ounce of the fibers
by trimming the byssus from each bivalve with a tiny scalpel
These beard-like growths can be up to six inches in length
The BBC further describes how she says a prayer before each dive
sacred “Sea Oath” that prevents sea silk from being bought or sold
marine biologist Helen Scales tells the story of Giuseppina and Assuntina Pes
two sisters on Sant’Antioco who learned the preparation of sea silk from Murroni
as did other neighbors and friends who have received less media attention than Vigo
the women tease them out with a spiky comb
and then spin the filaments to a fine thread with a spindle
Lemon juice brightens and clarifies the thread
which is anywhere from bronze to blonde in color
This allows her to continue to harvest byssus and then push the clams back into the mud
Vigo told the BBC that her family has been passing on the tradition of the thread for almost 1,000 years
almost nothing is known directly about the history of sea silk before about 1700—though its myth-shrouded history seems to date back much further
A post shared by Maria (@mariandsky) on Sep 2
“This fact led and still leads to the misunderstandings dominating the discussion today.” To complicate matters
it’s now also used as the general scientific term for some clams’ anchoring filaments
mentioned by the Greek writer Alciphron: wool of the sea
(Researchers have wondered whether these fabled ovines were the source of the famous Golden Fleece—they now doubt it.)
Similar stories appear in the accounts of 13th-century Arab traders: “One of the wonders of this sea is what is told regarding a certain animal which comes out of the water to rub itself on the sure
These have the color of gold and the softness of [embroidery silk] …
The value of a garment amounts to more than a thousand gold-pieces
owing to its beauty and rarity.” Export of this cloth was apparently forbidden
About 60 examples of sea silk garments persist in museum collections around the world, most dating from the last few centuries. If current trends in pen shell populations persist, the thread may be cut once and for all.
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this is a place where culinary traditions are still very much alive
Sardinians are among the longest-living folk in Europe
if not the world – and the wealth of natural ingredients behind their longevity is on full display in the island’s restaurants
The Sulcis wine region may not be the most touristed part of Sardinia
but this wonderful father-and-son restaurant is well worth a drive from wherever you are
There’s an incredible selection of seafood (think tiny crabs from Sant’Antioco island
made with co-owner Massimiliano’s hand-foraged myrtle berries
Get back to nature with a slap-up meal at this agriturismo on the west coast
The Minaudo family are Sardinian through and through and passionate about keeping farming traditions alive – hence their regular sessions with school kids on how they do things
A Michelin-starred restaurant on the Costa Smeralda
Chef Italo Bassi is known for his inventiveness – from deer tartare to sea-urchin gelato – with a focus on raw seafood
Madame Confusion – Tatjana Rozenfeld – is the sommelier who’s also responsible for all the art on the walls
which means the food is very different here from the rest of Sardinia
This is the place for paella and for fish (unusual in Sardinia
where traditional dishes are meat-based) – and this lovely restaurant
Try the agliata all’algherese – dogfish slathered in a sweet tomato
Courtesy of Sardineri ristorante-pizzeria The west coast of the island around Bosa is one of the most spectacular rollercoaster drives around and this is a worthy spot to catch your breath
but the marinated sardines and zucchini tempura are unmissable
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© Yadid Levy / Alamy Stock Photo Even Madonna has been to Su Gologone
set around a huge chimney and filled with traditional rustic furniture
has been drawing in guests for decades thanks to its hyper-traditional cooking techniques
Try the roasted meats – from sausages to kid goat – and add a side of culurgiones dumplings
this super-traditional trattoria was opened by renowned chef Roberto Serra in 2020
but the quality of food won it the top three “prawns” star rating in the Gambero Rosso guide for 2021
This lovely restaurant on La Maddalena island
has been grilling freshly caught seafood since 1958
lobster and sea urchin scooped straight from the sea – literally
as they’re all in the tanks where you can choose the one you want – but don’t miss the aragosta alle sette-otto: an entire lobster
This is an updated version of an article originally by Gillian McGuire
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Crazy!’ A woman points at our bikes and down towards the hill we’ve just climbed
and disappears over the rise. What she didn’t know is that we’re 150 kilometres (km) into a 210km
but the views more than made up for the challenge of today’s 550 metres of climbing.
Today is day four of our UTracks self-guided cycle and it’s been the most scenic
which is close to the southernmost point of Sardinia
and there’s no mistaking you’re in the Mediterranean.
Cliffs cleave into emerald waters and bathers lay on sugar-white sand under multi-coloured umbrellas
While the northern part of the island – known as a playground for the mega-wealthy with plenty of flash resorts – can be heaving with tourists in the peak season
making it the perfect place for those who prefer to pedal than pose on beaches
We start our Italian sojourn in Rome to get us in the right time zone
and then make the one-hour flight to Sardinia’s main airport
it’s a roughly one-hour drive to the starting point of our cycle
which is connected by a causeway to Sardinia.
We drive past pink salt ponds and bucolic countryside
but the pièce de résistance comes when we check into our room at MuMA Hostel
where you can lay in bed and listen to the lap of the ocean and watch boats bob in the sparkling sea. That afternoon we jump on our bikes to test them out and acquaint ourselves with this picturesque village lined with pastel-coloured houses
where the smell of salt and fresh seafood fills the air.
we have breakfast al fresco and load our pannier bags to officially begin our cycle
It has maps of our rides each day of the week with information on elevation
miles and a description of where we’re going
making it easy for any level of cyclist to use.
taking us to the village of Calasetta in the far north of Sant’Antioco
where we board a ferry with our bikes to Carloforte
the only town on the island of San Pietro. This ‘island off an island off an island’ is home to about 6000 people
it is lined with pastel-coloured houses and narrow cobbled streets
We cycle off the ferry and through the main street
and do a loop of the southern part of the island past vineyards
rolling fields dotted with farmhouses and roads lined with prickly pear cacti
The cars that do pass seem to almost expect you here
Back on the ferry to Sant’Antioco we check our distance on Strava and are surprised to see what felt like a short scenic ride was actually 48 kilometres.
The following day we ride a loop around the south of Sant’Antioco
reaching the top of a hill where we take in the postcard-worthy views of Maladroxia Beach through a mass of burgundy-coloured bougainvillea
This picturesque beach is too good to pass by and we head back down the hill to take a dip in the gin-clear waters and eat gelato
forgetting we’d have to make our way back up the almost vertical road
We end the day doing 250 metres of climbing
which proves to be the perfect taster of the hills yet to come
These first few days have given us a great insight into Sardinian life
We learn that the island is closer to Africa than Italy
“closer to Spanish than Italian” and while many Italians can understand it
including a pasta specific to this region called fregola
and is often served with clams in a fresh tomato base
which seems to be the beverage of choice everywhere we go (other than Aperol spritz) and we learn to become accustomed to the slower pace of life
The next day we reluctantly farewell Sant’Antioco and MuMA Hostel
MuMA is also home to a museum and the Ceas Isola di Sant’Antioco (Environmental and Sustainability Education Centre)
so you leave filled with knowledge about the important role the master shipwrights played in this region
we’re headed away from the seaside to the hinterland of the Teulada region
We pack our pannier bags and leave our suitcases at the accommodation to follow
A blessing of a tour like this means larger bags are transported for you to your next accommodation.
We cycle alongside vast fields of farmland and then wind the narrow streets of the abandoned medieval village of Tratalias
it was abandoned in the 1980s after the creation of an artificial lake where water seeped into the homes
although there’s not a single person here when we cycle through the eerie streets.
Blink and you’ll miss the sign to this unassuming property
It’s a fixed home-cooked menu using ingredients sourced mostly from the farm
I am fascinated to learn this area is Sardinia’s newest Blue Zone
There are only five original ‘Blue Zones’ in the world (Sardinia’s central region was one of them)
and Teulada is Sardinia’s latest region to gain the accolade (November 2023)
to describe the regions where people live the longest
I head into town where I meet local historian and author
and the head of the local council’s cultural sector
who tell me it took the local council ten years to prepare for the status
But they were confident they’d achieve it.
“It’s not just that locals are living to an old age here,” Bernardini tells me
“None of them have had any serious illness
It’s rare to see anyone with dementia or Parkinson’s.”
Loi’s extensive research had documented every centenarian
He found many similarities in the way they lived that could give away their secrets to longevity.
“People who kept goats lived longer,” he says
“So maybe there’s something in the fact they all worked from a young age on the land.”
The following day we cycle along the coastline to Chia
where the bluer than blue ocean forces us to take pause
it’s a laid-back beach lifestyle with no crowds
wander the icing-sugar-like shore and dine on moreish handmade pasta and pizzas bigger than our plates.
There’s no village here – restaurants are dotted around the region
We find a local supermarket and buy some Sardinia wine to take home (and drink in moderation
because there’s definitely something in the water here
bathing on the largely empty stretch of beach
or chatting to each other on the street – a common occurrence among all ages.
we leave Chia and ride up the coast past a medieval ‘savoy tower’ built in the 17thcentury
and past seemingly endless beaches to the bunting-lined cobbled streets of Pula – and I think I may have just stepped into a fairytale.
Our hotel Villa Madau is in the heart of the city
From here we sit on our balcony and watch as people wander the pretty square. We have booked a few extra days here
If there is an award for Italy’s prettiest town
I spend hours wandering the cobbled streets
then sip Aperol spritz and watch the world go by in the little central square
We also visit the nearby ancient site of Nora (4th-century BC)
Excavations in the 50s revealed a wealthy imperial Roman city
We wander the ruins and learn about the way the Romans once lived
then bike back to the centre of Pula for more plates of pasta before we have to prepare to go home.
I pine for the hills and those pretty views where fiats whizz tight bends
I long to go back and wander the abandoned village of Tratalias
I want to linger longer on the sparkling Mediterranean beaches with colours so vivid it’s as if a texter was taken to them
And I eye apartments in Pula and imagine myself living right here
Cycling by day and savouring the Sardinian cuisine by night.
When we are picked up the next day and leaving the cobbled streets of Pula
I am filled with hope that this southern region of the island retains its casual
because there are few places that offer such a special place for cyclists
‘You must come back,’ our driver tells us as he pulls our bags from the car at the airport
See Utracks for info on this and other cycle tours in Italy
around a one-hour drive from Cagliari airport
You will need a good level of fitness to complete the week-long cycle
Our cycle was a little more than 210 kilometres; however
you can cycle this in around 130 kilometres if you stick strictly to the GPS map. Day 1: takes you from Sant’Antioco to the island of San PietroDay 2: is a circuit of southern Sant’AntiocoDay 3: takes you into the hinterland of Teulada – a Blue ZoneDay 4: sees you cycle from Teulada to the seaside region of ChiaDay 5: is a short ride around ChiaDay 6: takes you from Chia to the town of PulaDay 7: is a look around the Pula region
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helping us to raise funds for conservation and adventure projects
locals organise a parade in honour of Sant'Antioco
altars are decorated with cloths adorned with sea silk
These golden threads were once made from the filaments of the large pen shells
but the species is now critically endangered and with it
the skill of crafting sea silk into precious fabrics
plus restaurants and hotelsThis article is more than 9 years oldSardinia has fantastic
but relatively few Brits come here for sun and sand
Italy simply doesn’t do seaside very well: beaches are often given over to hotel and bar concessions
with rows of sunbeds differentiated only by the colour of their umbrellas and the trashiness of their euro-pop
Only a corner at the least attractive end will be spiaggia libera – for people who just want to rock up and lie on a towel
Sardinia isn’t like that: lists of the island’s best beaches run into the hundreds
and there are many more unnamed coves and wedges of white
silver or golden sand around its 1,000km-plus of coastline
Some popular beaches are concessionised – though even these tend to be so spacious that plenty of spiaggia libera remains
There are wild beaches for those prepared to tote their own supplies
an undeniably beautiful area in the north-east around the town of Porto Cervo
millionaire-style development has spread as far as Palau in the north and south towards Olbia
from the Catalan-flavoured north-west to the south’s white dunes
from the rocky east to sometimes surfable west
surprisingly low prices (though accommodation costs jump in August) and a friendly welcome – particularly in these euro-critical times
nuraghe (neolithic remains) for history buffs
artisanal gelato and great-value wine you’d expect
and Sardinia is the perfect holiday island
Photograph: AlamyEast of the island’s capital
beaches suffer from proximity to the city and the SP71 coast road
But an hour’s drive west and south – blue sea on your left
flamingo-dotted lagoons on your right – is ridiculously fortunate Chia
For a little resort to have not one perfect crescent of pale sand but five can only be called greedy
the beaches are backed by a strip of protected dunes
so there’s barely a building visible from the shore; most holiday homes and hotels cluster on a hillside a mile away
slopes gently into clear water and has several bars (with sunbeds) plus windsurf and kayak hire
but the most impressive is huge Su Giudeu to the west
its couple of bar concessions lost in the wide soft sands
One end is slightly stony at the water’s edge
but its intimate size and almost circular shape make up for that
steep streets lead to the old town and one of Europe’s oldest churches
Young guide Marco told us how there are catacombs under the whole old town
and one elderly resident uses those below her house as cool summer sleeping quarters – cheaper than aircon
View image in fullscreenSotto Torre Calasetta
Photograph: Colin BoulterSouth of the causeway
with three white-sand bays in increasing sizes
with clear water and no concessions – but it’s worth driving a few kilometres to Le Saline and Spiaggia Grande
View image in fullscreenCalasetta’s watch tower
Photograph: AlamyCalasetta’s grid of 18th-century streets is also home to a modern art gallery
the MACC (Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Calasetta
a great setting for sunset yoga classes (7.30pm Tuesdays and Thursdays)
and there are great views towards San Pietro island from the belevedere
where oldsters chat on granite benches still warm from the day’s sun
The outdoor restaurant at Torre Chia campsite (pizzas from €4, fish mains from €10, +39 070 92 30 054, via del Porto 21, campeggiotorrechia.com) behind Su Portu beach is a good budget choice
Sardinians are less fixated on carb-heavy primi piatti than the mainlanders: it’s normal to leap straight from (substantial) antipasto to the main meat or fish event
A shared fish antipasto of six little plates was €9 and felt like a main meal
You can dine on fish with your feet almost in the sand at Calasetta’s La Caletta (mains from €15
but we also enjoyed an evening in the hubbub of the central square
A few streets back on aptly named Piazza Belly
portions at Il Pirata (+39 078 188 025) were huge
Try fregola sarda (pasta balls) with seafood sauce
View image in fullscreenRestaurant and pool at Hotel Spartivento. Photograph: Colin BoulterIn Chia, Hotel Spartivento (doubles from €130 B&B, hotelspartivento.it) is a little hard to find (turn right past the town’s only big hotel
the sprawling Laguna) but worth the effort
Low-rise buildings sit on a green slope with views over fields to Su Giudeu beach
and some have little stone terraces with handy rosemary bushes for drying your swimwear
The outdoor dining room overlooks lawns dotted with trees
A free shuttle bus means guests can avoid paying (from €4 a day) to park down by the beach
In a quiet residential area west of town, Calasetta’s newest hotel is two-storey Le Sabbie (from €64 B&B, lesabbie.com) with super-friendly staff and 30 doubles
but a short walk takes you to Sottotorre beach; the town centre is a short walk in the other direction
View image in fullscreenTorre Grande beach is 3km long An hour’s drive north-west from Cagliari is the elegant provincial capital of Oristano
and some of the west’s best beaches are on the nearby Sinis peninsula
Torre Grande has 3km of south-facing beach
This is a good base for older families (the sand shelves steeply under the water – not ideal for toddlers)
a long traffic-free seafront full of cyclists and skateboarders
and teenagers playing football by the “big tower”
San Giovanni di Sinis at the far south of the peninsula is a gentle arc of fine sand backed by low
fossil-laden cliffs: perfect for snorkelling
Is Arutas glistens white between ochre-coloured rocks
the “sand” actually tiny quartz pebbles like so much risotto rice
comfy to lie on and doesn’t get everywhere
The peninsula’s west-facing beaches are also
View image in fullscreenA sandy cove near Su PallosuIn northern Sinis
try parking almost anywhere on the Su Pallosu road and pick a footpath down to the shore
The corrugated headland hides myriad tiny sandy bays: follow the locals
Putzu IduUnpretentious beach restaurants are the norm in Sinis: at Turroi in San Giovanni (via Lungomare
+39 334 302 9630) a marinated mullet antipasto was delicious and the pizza the best I’ve had in years (dinner for two with wine €50 including tip)
Stella del Mare in Putzu Idu (via Benedetto Sanna
+39 342 311 8005) was similar – hectic but smiley
Ring ahead to bag a table on the sea-view terrace
€10 a day) and explore sandy tracks inland
between wheatfields and vineyards edged with palm trees
Good road links to Oristano mean it’s possible to see a different Sardinia by staying a little way inland and visiting beaches by car. For atmosphere and setting Santu Lussurgiu, a 1,000-year-old village built into the caldera of a long-extinct volcano 35km from the coast, is hard to beat. Hotel Sas Benas, (doubles from €110, sasbenas.it) in its medieval centre
was converted in 2012 from several townhouses
Having to abandon the car and find it on foot when the satnav gave up in tiny streets was part of the fun
Active families would enjoy Sa Mola (doubles from €80 B&B, bungalow sleeping four from €110 B&B, on Facebook) in nearby Bonarcado at the foot of the Montiferru hills
which is gearing up to add horse riding to its walking and mountain biking activities (there’s no pool)
Half-board deals are good value (€630 for a week for two in September) and food is very Sardinian – malloreddus pasta (like fat white grubs) and mint and rosemary flavourings
A good option in cooler weather is Antiche Terme di Sardara (from €81 a head full-board if you stay three days, termedisardara.it)
it has two outdoor pools at a natural 38C – perfect for a warming dip after seaside walks
Stays here are quite a retro experience: the dining hall serves good but slightly institutional food
Treatments in the brand new wellness centre start at €16
Photograph: /Francesco Iacobelli/JAI/CorbisAcross the north from the Costa Smeralda
Alghero is the choice of ordinary Italian families
The city’s beaches are a little gritty and noisy
near the surprisingly appealing fascist-era town of Fertilia
Lazzaretto and Bombarde beaches offer kayaks and windsurfing for those who want them
Bombarde does have an ugly hotel at one end
with low rocks enclosing little sandy “rooms”
and walk through woods (or drive in a 4WD) to wild
You may well have the sunset to yourselves
but its white sand perfection and proximity to the Porto Torres ferry terminal mean it gets busy
squeezed between two harbours; south of it
follow signposts to several fine shingle beaches
including one called Coscia di Donna (Lady’s Thigh)
Family-owned restaurant Il Paguro (via Zara 13
+39 079 930260) sits on a residential street in Fertilia
and a starter of “roasted Sardinian pecorino” (€4) is a wicked bowl of runny cheese
View image in fullscreenHotel Domominore, near AlgheroKeep life simple with a stay at Hotel Domominore (doubles from €100, hoteldomominore.it)
In a rural setting with nice pool and lovely breakfast
it’s just 10 minutes from the airport (with very little plane noise) and 20 from the buzz of Alghero
Cala Goloritzè is one of Lonely Planet’s European top 10 beaches
Photograph: AlamySouth from Olbia you are soon in mountains
the coast is so steep that beach access becomes an issue – unless you take to the water
Every morning from the town of Cala Gonone
boats depart for the beaches around the gulf
one of Lonely Planet’s top 10 beaches in Europe
and run to strict timetables: a fun alternative is to hire an inflatable (gommone) with outboard motor (from €80 a day
an area said to rival the Costa Smeralda for beauty
Just to the north is one of my favourite beaches – wide Colostrai
with golden sand sloping into water kept warm by a sandbar just offshore
View image in fullscreenCala Gonone beach
Sardinia Photograph: Liz BoulterIt was near here that we found our private paradise
Just before Capo Ferrato village on the SP97
red-and-white panels mark a footpath between an olive grove and a wheatfield
leading to the multi-hued sea and white sand of Porto Pirastu
but we turned right over some rocks and had the fine beach
View image in fullscreenCulurgiones with potatoes
Photograph: AlamyFeast on excellent culurgiones (Sardinian ravioli) with cured tuna roe at Sa Serbidora in Arbatax town (Piazza Sindaco Porrà 5
Carnivores will love the typical cena sarda at Torre Salinas’ on-site restaurant: a ham
wood-roast suckling pig and/or braised goat
and a seadas pastry costs €30 a head with wine
View image in fullscreenView of Gulf of Tortolì from Monte Turri restaurant. Photograph: Colin BoulterSpending a few nights at Monte Turri Hotel (doubles from €120, monteturri.com) south of the Orosei gulf
The hotel is part of a development that covers a rocky headland near the port of Arbatax
A lift takes guests down cliffs to a private swimming spot
and there’s a huge spa and a nature park with native animals
The views rival anything on the Amalfi coast
For a simpler stay, try a beachside campsite. Torre Salinas (one-bedroom cottage sleeping two adults and two children from €55, campingvillagetorresalinas.it) near Muravera
View image in fullscreenCottages at Torre Salinas campsiteVillas Direct still has summer availability in several properties on the Costa Rei. Adele (from €451 a week, sleeps 6, villasdirect.com) is 200 metres from the sea
The trip was arranged by Sardinia destination specialist Tiziana Tirelli (twitter.com/tiztire), with accommodation provided by the hotels mentioned. Car hire was provided by Villas Direct (villasdirect.com)
which has more than 100 properties in Sardinia
one of the last byssus weavers in the world
is sharing her passion and knowledge on this ancient form of weaving with the public at a Magic Box event at the Italian Cultural Institute in Valletta tomorrow
Byssus is a silky filament secreted by the Pinna nobilis
Byssus can still be found in the south of Sardinia but
It takes several hundred dives to collect a few hundred grams of ‘sea-silk’ that Vigo washes carefully and then spins into thread
a thread which has beautiful golden shades if looked at it in the sunshine
This craft was known by many ancient populations and is even mentioned in the Bible
Vigo learnt all about it from her grandmother who made her promise to never sell or commercialise the sea-silk in any way
she opened the Museum of Byssus in Sant’ Antioco
a small island just off the south-west coast of Sardinia
The event will be held at the Italian Cultural Institute in St George Square
AFRO Jazz star Dudu Manhega starred at the 'Songs from African and Mediterranean Skies' concert held at Sardinia's Arena Fenicia of Sant Antioco on Friday
concluding a "month of jazz and more" on the Italian island
Hundreds of people attended the show where Dudu teamed up with Enzo Favata
the internationally renowned Sardinian saxophonist
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If there were an annual prize for the most industrious restaurateurs in London
then 2024's trophy would probably be a dead heat between Jason Atherton and the dynamic duo of George Bukhov-Weinstein and Ilya Demichev
having only recently unveiled their latest restaurant Fantomas on the King's Road
are about to open two new London restaurants in just one week
The first one you need to know about is Pinna
which is being opened with their friend and business partner Elmira Amdiy This sees the Sardinian chef Achille Pinna
from Sant’Antioco on the southwestern coast of Sardinia taking the fore
Pinna was also the executive chef at the pair's Wild Tavern restaurant.
They've taken on a site at the entrance to one of our favourite parts of London
where they're going to be serving up Sardinian specials to Londoners
"It's Sardinia on a plate," they told Hot Dinners
house made pasta (think paccheri with zucchini and sea urchin) and the best cuts of beef sourced from Spain to Scotland
leans heavily on Italy for influence will feature wine from Sardinia's most important winery
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @pinnamayfair
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Sardinia is nigh on a tropical paradise and it’s just a two-hour flight from London Luton with easyJet
The first Jews arrived here more than two millennia ago
having been exiled during the days of the Roman Empire
Not much tangible Jewish history is left today
although Jewish influences do remain; the Sardinian word for Friday
takes its meaning from the Latin cena pura – pure feast – or Shabbat meal and caputanni
an island reached by ferry or car from the south of Sardinia
houses probably the most interesting of Jewish artefacts
visitors can still see inscriptions written in Hebrew and Latin in one of the only places where these can be found in Italy
life became more pleasant for the Jewish community
which at one time housed a large synagogue
Spain began to persecute its Jewish citizens
first by making immigration illegal under pain of death and finally
Not until the 19th century did they return with the revolutions in Italian states in 1848 and Jewish emancipation
only for the community to be decimated once more by the Shoah
Sardinia is seen as an island of opulence and luxury
There are plenty of kosher options available and while there is no active synagogue
a fledgling Jewish community has begun to emerge
We were just a short walk away from the calm
which offered plenty of space for our family of four
One caveat: this is definitely a place for the more active
The hotel’s situation on a steep hill means that views are to die for from almost every standpoint
but be prepared to walk off those sumptuous buffets
full-board option and you will be greeted with buffets groaning with the freshest antipasti of meat
Le Terrazze offers a more intimate à la carte restaurant
and the boys enjoying football and archery
while they attempted to catch fish in their buckets
a destination in itself complete with three pools
for a massage that saw me slip into a blissful state of slumber
Caron and her family flew to Olbia with easyJet (easyjet.com) from London Luton, with transfers by Just Sardinia (justsardinia.co.uk). A week half-board for a family of four at Park Hotel Cala di Lepre (hotelcaladilepre.com/sardinia) starts from €1,995 (£1,777).
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The Village of Villages 2023: an exciting comparison between the most beautiful villages in Italy, organized by Kilimanjaro. The program elected the winner of the year 2023 among the twenty candidates (one per region), and the public also had the opportunity to discover numerous realities worthy of being visited and appreciated.
See this content on Instagram A post shared by the village of villages (@borgodeiborghi)
Below is the list of twenty villages listed for the title of "Borgo dei Borghi" of 2023:
See this content on Instagram A post shared by the village of villages (@borgodeiborghi)
Here the list of villages who won the title in previous editions:
The prestigious recognition of The village of villages was awarded this year to Ronciglione
In second place was the enchanting location of Sant'Antioco in Sardinia
while the third step of the podium was conquered by Salemi
The Borgo dei Borghi 2023 is Ronciglione in the province of Viterbo.It was the highest rated borough in the broadcast @kilimangiarorai on RAI3 conducted by @camilaraznovich.Congratulations to #Ronciglione and to all the villages participating in this tenth edition!
See this content on Instagram A post shared by The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy (@borghitalia)
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