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Prachet Sancheti aka ‘Brown Koji Boy’—a cricket analyst whose culinary Masters course at Italy’s School of Gastronomic Sciences was cut short due to COVID—began making koji out of a converted cooler in his bungalow in Goa
he’s supplying India’s top restaurants—from Mumbai’s Papa’s to Bengaluru’s Naru—with everything from three-pea and cashew-based misos to koji mushroom caramel and koji hot sauce
As a producer who often hosts visitors at his koji facility in Goa
he wanted to visit his counterparts in Japan
So Sancheti reached out to dozens of regional producers of koji—makers of miso
and mirin—for a fermentation pilgrimage that would take him across Japan
While he embarked on a technical culinary journey
Sancheti found fermentation tourism in Japan to be a delightfully fun space—one where foodies of all ilks could enjoy themselves
travelling from seaside towns to mountain hamlets
Here is Sancheti’s guide to Japan’s delightful ferments:
koji: Japan’s national mould (Aspergillus oryzae)
an enzymatic powerhouse used in fermentation to create products such as soy sauce
Amazake: A traditional Japanese fermented rice drink
often non-alcoholic—like a sweet non-alcoholic sake
Miso: A Japanese fermented soybean paste used as a seasoning in soups
Tamari: A gluten-free soy sauce variant made primarily from soybeans
fermented sauce made from soybeans and wheat
Mirin: A sweet Japanese rice wine used in cooking to add flavour and gloss to dishes
and meaty flavour often found in foods like soy sauce
Ikebukuro Egg FestivalThis festival in Tokyo’s Ikebukuro ward
is set in a subterranean hall of the Ikebukuro train station
It's essentially a soy sauce and egg festival— celebrating “tamago kake gohan”
a Japanese breakfast dish of cooked rice topped with a raw or cured egg and soy sauce
many traditional “kioke” soy sauce producers show up; the name kioke refers to the wooden barrels used to ferment soy sauce the traditional way
representing just one per cent of soy sauce producers in Japan
You can buy an all-you-can-eat pass and sample all sorts of soy sauce and tamari
and meet some of the best soy sauce producers in Japan
Uonuma Jozo rice koji factoryThis place specialises in amazake and is surrounded by the three peaks of Echigo— the mountain snow melts and forms the Uono river that passes right by the factory
All that melted snow represents 100 per cent of the water used at Uonuma Jozo
so you can book a slot online on their website
They have one of the world's largest koji-making machines that makes about 20 tonnes of koji at a time
something you’ve never tasted; they allow you to taste the water itself
so you can see the difference in the quality
where they take you through the brand’s history
from koji syrup to koji amazake sweets like doughnuts and gelato… they also have amazake in powdered form
to sprinkle on dishes for sweetness or make instant amazake
Yamato Koji ParkThis seaside destination represents one of the biggest koji producers in Japan—mainly soy sauce
They’ve also got a cafe with a bakery and soft-serve ice cream—they do like an amazing brown rice soft serve that tastes a lot like Horlicks
and a soy sauce ice cream with a huge depth of flavour
the real draw of this place is the 100 per cent koji-based bakes
Using koji powder instead of flour to make cheesecake
they brûlée the dusting of shio koji powder on top
using sweet and salty misos that add an umami element
They also make a lovely soy sauce pie and miso custard buns
It’s just a fun way to have people interact with and understand koji-based foods outside the realm of sushi and ramen
Pick up their four-year-aged soy sauce as well as their many funky powders and amazakes
to bring about all aspects of koji together
Mikina Natural Bread bakeryThese guys don’t use any yeast at their koji-based bakery
they make what’s called a doburoku mash to create this yeast-like effect that acts as a starter
One is a small koji growing space in Saitama
so the father lives above the space and does the whole koji process himself—the idea of an 86-year-old dad growing all that koji is fascinating—doing trials
taking care of the fermentation cycle for the starters; these are taken to the second space
the bread factory run by his son in Kashiwa
The production factory is run by a tight-knit team
this is a place you’ll have to reach out to beforehand
Mr.Nobutaro Asai of Maruya Hatcho Miso trying BKB's Tamari
Laying of weight stones at Maruya Hatcho Miso
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Choice glamping locations in and around Tokyo
By Sleiman Azizi
Glamping may very well be the perfect user-friendly experience of Japan’s great outdoors
Living it up in the middle of nature with well equipped tents and small designer cabins — often luxurious — have made ‘glamorous camping’ the holiday of choice for many
from mouth-dropping BBQ platters and outdoor enjoyment to farm-themed locations and locations crafted by award-winning designers
Here’s an easy guide to glamping sites within access from Tokyo
From purple sweet potatoes to wild horse sightings
here’s how to make the most of Okinawa’s tropical escape
Explore the best local brands shaping Tokyo’s fashion scene
From vintage clothing to Hawaiian-themed goods
here’s what’s worth checking out before it’s gone
From buying and registering a bike to key rules of the road
Collagen staples for beauty and health in Japan
Our handpicked list of the best events going on this month
and the untold tales of Japan’s queer community
Everything you need to know before and during a natural disaster
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Tokyo
It may have the pun-averse and camping purists up in arms
but glamping (glamorous camping) is here to stay
With resorts popping up at some of Japan’s most iconic locations
there’s never been a better time to sleep al fresco
So whether it is waking up to the perfect view of Mount Fuji or splashing around in the emerald waters of the Seto Inland Sea that floats your boat
Hoshinoya Fuji is where it all started: this luxury resort introduced Japan to glamping and Japan fell in love
Created by an all-star group of specialists including architects
landscape designers and lighting technicians
it’s designed for those looking to experience all the positives of camping without having to sweat for the pleasure
All accommodation here has magnificent views of Mt Fuji
while the spacious communal terrace is the spot to grill some red meat or drink around the bonfire
Only guests are allowed to enter the premises
If you are feeling active you can indulge in horseback riding around the foot of the sacred peak or an early-morning canoeing session on Lake Kawaguchi
The rest of us are happy to kick back and soak in that view
1408 Oishi, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi. 0570 073 066. hoshinoyafuji.com
Located on Awaji Island in Hyogo prefecture
no relation to its American namesake – is a fancy tent village for campers with thick wallets
You can go swimming in the Seto Inland Sea and enjoy an evocative beach campfire in the evening
Accommodation options include a tent larger than the apartments of most Tokyoites
and cottages that look like they’ve been ripped from the pages of a fashion magazine
Prices start from ¥28,000 for the cabins
2359 Goshikicho-Torikaiura, Sumoto-shi, Hyogo. 0799 34 0900. fbi-camping.com/awaji
Chiba’s The Farm is only an hour and a half away from central Tokyo but feels a million miles from the metropolitan heave
Part of a Ministry of Agriculture project that aims to ‘energise producers’ in the countryside
The Farm hosts a number of agricultural activities and events to introduce the public to the joys of living off the land and everything you eat is grown on site
You can choose to stay either in a tent or a cottage
either way you’ll have access to the on-site onsen
there’s nothing better than a hot spring bath
1309-29 Nishitabe, Katori-shi, Chiba. 0478 70 5551. thefarm.jp
You can now go glamping in central Tokyo – at Toyosu’s ‘outdoor park’
The stylishly designed 1.6-hectare site has the look of a theme park and stocks all the equipment you’ll need for an evening of grilling – from cutlery and knives to meat and vegetables
Their American-style smoked steak with original garlic spice seasoning is especially delicious
6-1-23 Toyosu, Koto-ku (Shin-Toyosu Station). the-third-park.com
Hatsushima can be accessed only by boat – it’s a 25-minute ride from Atami Port
close to Atami Station on the Tokaido line
Hatsushima Island Resort is equipped with terraced mega tents and trailers with en suite bathrooms and private decks
while the barbecue menu is heavy on seafood including succulently fresh scallops and lobster
and in the early mornings watch the sunrise from the Shima no Yu baths
The hot spring here bubbles up from 40m underground and is rich with rejuvenating minerals
If you like to mix the call of the wild with your creature comforts
Hatsushima, Atami-shi, Shizuoka. 0557 67 2151. pica-resort.jp/hatsushima
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A moderate magnitude 4.5 earthquake occurred in the North Pacific Ocean near the coast of Ibaraki, Japan
The quake had a shallow depth of 46 km (29 mi) and was not felt (or at least not reported so)
A strong magnitude 4.6 earthquake occurred in the North Pacific Ocean near the coast of Japan in the morning of Monday
The quake had a shallow depth of 50 km (31 mi) and was reported felt by some people near the epicenter
A moderate magnitude 4.5 earthquake hit 35 km (22 mi) away from Kashima-shi, Ibaraki, Japan
The quake had a very shallow depth of 20 km (13 mi) and was felt widely in the area
The shallow depth of the quake caused it to be felt more strongly near the epicenter than a deeper quake of similar magnitude would
Sano has a very high level of seismic activity
Based on data from the past 25 years and our earthquake archive back to 1900
there are about 2,700 quakes on average per year in or near Sano
Sano has had at least 13 quakes above magnitude 6 since 1900
which suggests that larger earthquakes of this size occur infrequently
probably on average approximately every 5 to 10 years
The quake had a very shallow depth of 6.4 km (4 mi) and was too small to be felt by people
Sano has had 25 small quakes up to magnitude 1.9
The quake had a very shallow depth of 22 km (14 mi) and was not felt (or at least not reported so).