Dear Reader,Unfortunately our comment platform isn\'t available at the moment due to issues with our paywall and authentication vendor Glowing on the vine like illuminated pink gumdrops Native to Japan, where the pale pink clusters have been cultivated in the Yamanashi Prefecture for at least 1,000 years, the variety recently made its American debut thanks to Kazumi Wines in Napa Valley with fruit grown in South Napa and the Oak Knoll District “I love that I get to share this awesome Japanese grape with people who have never been exposed to it Sakazaki returned to the states to attend U.C which later took her to Italy where she discovered wine “Living in Italy really sparked my interest in wine because it’s such a part of life,” she said “We’d have long dinners where we’d sit for five hours and open different bottles of wine — and they were all good and inexpensive After a stint in New York City, Sakazaki left the fast life of fashion in 2009 for the slower pace of Napa Wine Country, where her parents had settled a few years prior. That’s where she took a job at her father’s company, 90 Plus Wine Club which exports local wine to Japan and other countries in Asia Eager to get a solid understanding of the wine business she worked on the sales and marketing side until her curiosity about wine production began to pique my friend’s parents offered me half a ton of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from their home vineyard so I decided to make some wine for fun and see what happens,” said Sakazaki I don’t sell it and it becomes our home drinking wine.” So the next year, she made more, as well as some Cabernet Sauvignon. Along the way, she hired Napa Valley winemaker Kale Anderson to lead production which now totals about 1,300 cases per year But it wasn’t until 2018 that her fate to produce the first Koshu in the United States came into view “My dad and I were talking to another Japanese winemaker who mentioned the Koshu vines at Foundation Plant Services at U.C Foundation Plant Services identifies and maintains grapevines from around the world distributes disease-free cuttings to the public for propagation the original Koshu vines at Foundation Plant Services were donated by a Japanese university about 100 years ago they were later cleaned and made available to the public in 2014 “My father lived in Japan for 30 years and knew all about Koshu so he was really excited when we found out there was some at FPS (Foundation Plant Services),” she said “He ended up spearheading the Koshu project by buying as many canes as he could I don’t know how he did it — but he found growers in Napa to plant them Sakazaki sources Koshu grapes from two growers who manage the vines in Napa Valley they farm a total of about 5 ½ planted acres with three additional acres planted by LangeTwins Winery in Lodi last year Fruit from those vines will likely be available beginning in 2026 While the precise history of Koshu remains uncertain Japanese scholars believe the grape arrived in Japan via the Silk Road about a millennia ago Initially believed to be the European domesticated grape species Vitis vinifera, newer research suggests the grape is likely a hybrid between Vitis vinifera and numerous wild East Asian grape species pinkish purple berries that wear thick skins with high acidity that hangs on in the hot summer heat “We were happy to discover how well Koshu grows in Napa,” said Sakazaki “With our constant heat spikes and unpredictable weather it could really be a grape for the future.” which is typically produced in stainless steel or neutral oak Kazumi Koshu is fermented in 25% new French oak — a Napa trademark that begets a New World style The result is a wine that mirrors its Japanese counterpart in bright acidity yuzu and salinity that begs for Japanese cuisine Kazumi Wines exports about 50% of its Koshu to Japan where its served at numerous Michelin Star restaurants in Tokyo and Kyoto While Sakazaki admits she was initially nervous Japanese Koshu producers would feel she was encroaching on their territory she said their response has been “amazing.” “A lot of them have taken an interest in the fact we’re producing a Koshu in the U.S. and they’re all eager to taste what the difference is,” she said people are just excited to try something new Many see it as a sake alternative to pair with Japanese food.” She’s also toying with the idea of producing a 100% stainless steel fermented Koshu or rosé some day “My goal is to differentiate our Napa Valley Koshu from those made in Japan,” she said “We’re growing production so eventually we might try some new things I’m just excited to introduce people in the U.S You can reach Staff Writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com Koshu has been gaining attention in Western markets with limited but growing distribution in the UK and US From the classic crisp and ethereal style to more textured ‘sur lie’ expressions the pink-skinned grape is now used to produce a wide range of wines Read on to explore the history of Koshu and discover 13 Koshu wines worth seeking out, recently tasted at the annual Koshu of Japan event in London Tomi-No-Oka’s Koshu vineyard with Mt Fuji in the background Koshu is a native Japanese grape variety that has been grown domestically for centuries but has only been used for winemaking since 1874 It was considered to have originally come from China via the Silk Road according to the domestic trade organisation The name ‘Koshu (甲州)’ comes from the ancient kingdom of ‘Kai (甲斐)’ which is located in the area now known as the Yamanashi prefecture It now covers 480 hectares (ha) of vineyards in Japan with 95% grown in the Yamanashi prefecture there are two tales about how the Koshu grape was discovered The first is that during the Nara period (AD 710-784) a well-respected monk named Gyōki had a dream of Bhaisajyaguru (the Buddha of healing and medicine) Gyōki made a wooden sculpture depicting what he saw and on his way to deliver the sculpture to Daizenji Temple in Katsunuma town The other version of the story is less mysterious a Katsunuma villager named Kageyu found an unusual species of wild grape on his way back from a religious ritual He took the seeds and planted them in his own farmland the vine finally started to produce purple-red fruit Legend has it that Kageyu presented the Koshu grape to Minamoto no Yoritomo the first Shōgun of the Kamakura government Koshu was seen as a table grape for centuries when a monk and a businessman joined forces to start making wine in a temple They decided to give winemaking a try as they had seen Westerners drinking grape wine in Yokohama then a major port and base of foreign trade in Japan Inspired by the soybean press used for making miso paste they brought in their own wooden hand press as well as large sake barrels to store their wines Katsunuma established its own winemaking company literally named ‘the Great Japanese Wine (大日本葡萄酒会社)’ Takano Masanari (高野正誠) and Tsuchiya Ryuken (土屋龍憲) to study viticulture and oenology in France This move marked the dawn of modern winemaking in Japan as recorded by the official textbook of Japan Sommelier Association Koshu grapes trained on the traditional pergola system UC Davis conducted DNA research on Koshu and confirmed its status as vitis vinifera It is believed to have travelled from Europe via the Silk Road to China and then to Japan The vast majority of Koshu grapes are produced in Yamanashi – Japan’s ‘Home of Fruits’ at the foothills of Mount Fuji – which features volcanic soils with clay In his 2023 Expert’s Choice, Hayato Kojima reported a production of 3,300 tonnes in the region in 2018 based on figures provided by Japan’s national tax agency – although not all of the production is used for winemaking According to the prefecture’s official site, the region had 400ha of Koshu grapes planted by 2015. Being a major fruit-producing region in Japan for over 1,000 years, Yamanashi is one of the driest regions in the nation. Even so, the average rainfall in Katsunuma town can reach over 1,000mm per year, with nearly 80% of that falling during the growing season. Sufficient rain, combined with a high-vigour grape variety, makes yield control difficult for growers. Traditionally, both issues are addressed by training the vines high above the ground on an X-shaped pergola system, with long cordon pruning applied as a more recent, easier-to-manage alternative. Pioneering producers such as Grace Wine and Suntory’s Tomi no Oka Winery are also trialling a vertical shoot positioning (VSP) system, and are already achieving impressive results. Although Koshu grapes have thick skins, to better protect them from continuous rain, traditionally growers adorn individual bunches with ‘hats’ (mostly made from wax paper), showcasing an incredible display of attention to detail. Modern methods such as overarching plastic rain covers are also used as a less labour-intensive way to keep these pinkish bunches dry and healthy. Protective ‘rain hats’ on Koshu bunches. Credit: KoshuofJapan.com For much of its history, Koshu was crafted as a sweet and fruity wine – until the 1980s, when local producers began exploring drier expressions and ‘sur lie’ styles. A delicate, semi-aromatic grape, Koshu typically lends itself to refreshing still and sparkling wines with subtle notes of yuzu, kabosu (Japanese lime), pear blossom and steamed rice. Its bright yet unobtrusive acidity lends a sense of purity and finesse. When aged on the lees or in used barrels, Koshu gains body, texture, more umami depth and even a gentle grip. Extended skin contact reveals more red fruit characteristics, often taking on an orange hue. Winemakers tend to eschew excessive new oak, allowing the grape’s pristine, understated elegance to shine. With its elegant profile, Koshu is a natural companion to seafood and the more subtle, umami-rich Japanese dishes – with sushi and tempura among the top options. Sommelier Agnieszka Swiecka leads the masterclass at Koshu of Japan tasting Led by sommelier Agnieszka Swiecka, head of wine for the Audley and Mount St Restaurant and UK Sommelier of the Year 2023 this was a deep dive into Japan’s signature white grape where we tasted nine different Koshus from across the Yamanashi Prefecture In my mind - and this was played out again during the masterclass and the tasting itself - Koshu is an other-worldly grape Crisp and fresh and long… but then it drifts off the palate leaving not a trace Like Thom Yorke hitting that top note in Radiohead’s ‘How To Disappear Completely’ (4m 54s) it just keeps on coming before disappearing completely There was no musical accompaniment to the masterclass Swiecka began by telling us that she doesn’t normally do masterclasses but couldn’t pass up the opportunity to get all geeky about Koshu for an hour It was well worth it; she put Koshu into a viticultural and traditional context before proposing via the wine flight and subsequent discussions a ‘killer Koshu’ wine list for the on-trade Japan’s Yamanashi Prefecture is situated to the west of Tokyo and it is here in the late 12th century that wild vines of Koshu were first discovered It’s believed that the grape has been growing here since the 8th century arriving via the silk road most likely through Georgia Yamanashi is the driest area of Japan and boasts well-drained soils which makes it a good region for fruit but not rice which explains why this is Japan’s grape-growing hotspot cherries and peaches are grown here and they all benefit from the region’s abundant sunshine hours (1,200-1,600 hours annually) "A lot of Japanese winemakers traditionally want to match Koshu with Japanese food… I think the way forward is to broaden this out,” says Swiecka The area was “established within a model following European viticulture,” says Swiecka The region’s oldest estate Château Mercian was modelled on Bordeaux although today most of the wineries operate in a system more associated with Burgundy purchasing much of their fruit on a négociant basis The one significant winery which leans more heavily on estate-grown fruit is Grace Winery and then only 50% of their output is made from their own grapes Swiecka is keen to talk about the tradition of the region and how this affects the viticulture and winemaking She frames this ‘human impact’ as part of terroir "I do think that part of the terroir is the winemaker's input,” she says “If we talk about wine it's lovely to talk about the grapes and where they are from but it is the human that has to train the grapes and make a lot of decisions otherwise they are natural So you have to make decisions in the vineyard but also in the cellar so we must consider this aspect of terroir too." The walkaround tasting allowed a range of different styles of Koshu to be sampled As we worked through the masterclass wines we did so with a keen eye of how Koshu best fits in the on-trade Across the board these are dangerously drinkable wines wines with attitude if not weight and as a result are perfect for wine bar and restaurant wine lists “I think Koshu is perfectly suited to restaurants that have an interesting by-the-glass program and not just Japanese restaurants,” says Swiecka and it’s this last part which really hits home Many operators are missing the sweet spot with Koshu by often (mostly always) pairing it with Japanese food While Koshu works with traditional Japanese dishes so many other foods work with these wines and pigeon-holing doesn't help it makes consumers feel that they can only enjoy Koshu with Japanese food but a lot of Japanese winemakers traditionally want to match it with Japanese food… I think the way forward is to broaden this out,” says Swiecka goat’s cheese… these were just a few of the non-Japanese suggestions voiced as we tasted through the wines poise and precision are the watchwords when pairing Koshu and the possibilities are endless As well as the wines tasted in the masterclasses the walkaround tasting itself offered a variety of other styles Here we select the standout wines from each of the nine producers on show Single site Koshu made from destemmed grapes This really stood out; it’s concentrated and almost salty with grip and an intriguing ‘flor’ character tropical peach and Meyer lemon and on the nose a herby green freshness Crushed rock smokiness further cranks up the intensity level From Yamanashi’s Fuefuki District this Koshu is almost pink as you swirl it in the glass you can glimpse flashes of colour as it does the rounds Delicate and light in style there’s grapefruit pith Assam tea and stewed apple notes and some crushed oyster shell which adds a lovely freshness on the finish The winemaker says it’s lightly filtered but the sediment is stirred through first You can almost ‘feel’ the sediment in the mouth it’s grippy and adds a nice texture to the wine Crushed pear is the dominant fruit note and grapefruit peel acidity adds nice structure Probably the best known Koshu producer and it’s easy to see why The standout was a single-vineyard wine from the Misawa Vineyard in Akeno this is very gastronomic in its approach with white chocolate It’s the only Koshu tasted that’s gone through malo which arguably accounts for these rather leftfield characters This is fermented in an inert style to retain freshness then aged in steel on the lees with occasional battonage The result is an interesting style which has real depth of character and a savoury edge Lovely weight and crisp stone fruit nicely offsets the almost woody A hint of spice on the finish closes this out in style Kurambon is one of the oldest wineries in the region It operated as a co-op between 1932 and 1962 The Sol Lucet Koshu is aromatic and crisp with a savoury It’s quite yeasty and creamy in character with orange peel and grapefruit hints Orange Koshu is clearly the flavour of the month with a few examples on show This sparkling skin-contact wine is made using the carbonic maceration technique which may explain the soft and furry peach notes There’s a hint of tannin too (fine leaf tea) and a pure fresh finish carried by the delicate bubbles This is zero dosage but you wouldn’t guess which sees six days pre-fermentation skin contact Tomi No Oka Winery is part of the Suntory brand most famous for its Japanese whiskies and those ‘Lost In Translation’ Bill Murray adverts Lovely and long with structure and concentration There’s a hint of dried herbs on the close The Buyer TVClick below to watch The Buyer's library of online debates, videos and webinars. Hinata Shimazaki dips her brush in paint before turning her attention to the front of the classroom making sure she is following the instructions She is working on an art club project at Ames High School Shimazaki is more than 6,000 miles from her usual classroom in Koshu City She was one of 20 Koshu City students that spent nearly a week in Ames as part of an exchange program from Oct. 13-18. The stay was in response to a group of Ames Middle School students that traveled to Koshu City in July. The program is part of the Ames International Partner Cities Association (AIPCA) educational exchange The trip to central Iowa was the first time many of the Koshu City students had ever traveled abroad Shimazaki and her classmates were fascinated by the differences in American schools and she found it "weird" to be without one in the United States She also said school lunches are "completely different" back home you can't choose your lunch (in the cafeteria)," Shimazaki said Students from Ames High and Koshu City compared differences in their schools while they worked on their projects and played games working together to overcome the language barrier More: Old Chicago in Ames is closing next week. If you have a VIP mug, plan to pick it up soon and Reiman Gardens throughout the first day in Ames They also carved pumpkins and participated in a scavenger hunt They then explored Ames' diverse downtown the following day they visited a few local stores for a treat Shimazaki said a highlight was getting ice cream The students spent much of the third day at Ames Middle School and Ames High School The language barrier proved to be a small hurdle for the kids but the Ames and Koshu City students enjoyed learning about one another during various activities The Japanese students spent their last full day exploring the Iowa State University campus The kids also enjoyed meals and other activities with a smattering of local host families More: Behind the scenes with Discovery Channel's 'RV There Yet?' in Ames and Boone A group of 11 Ames Middle School students traveled to Koshu City over the summer They also made their own lunches using traditional Japanese meal options an Ames Middle School teacher and exchange program organizer said each student learned something unique with their host family "There was not a young person whose life wasn't changed," Williams said "I felt like a proud group leader at every moment." Williams said the trip to Japan was like an "extension of home" with how courteous their Koshu City hosts were who were worried the American students wouldn't like traditional Japanese food and there were these bags of fries and burgers," Williams recalled AIPCA's partner city relationships have been a source of cultural exchange and collaboration for more than 30 years Ames has built lasting friendships that have bridged continents fostered greater understanding and enriched the community "Our partnerships are more than symbolic—they allow us to share knowledge and innovation with our friends around the world," McCollum said these relationships help us see the world in a more interconnected way." Koshu City is currently Ames' only designated sister city McCollum expects the relationship to blossom even more now that students have experienced new cultures we’re showing that Ames is not just a local community political and education reporter for the Ames Tribune She can be reached at CBrocker@gannett.com Established in July 2009 by 15 Japanese wine producers Koshu of Japan aims to improve the quality of the indigenous white wine grapes and wines produced in the Yamanashi Prefecture and increase awareness across global markets the organisation will host its annual tasting at a new venue—Japan House in London’s Kensington High Street the one-day event is open only to UK trade and press by invitation Guests will have the opportunity to sample more than 30 imported and unimported wines from nine wineries in Yamanashi and food-pairing potential of the Koshu grape comments: “When Koshu of Japan was established 16 years ago and began promoting Koshu wine in the UK producers have striven to improve the quality of the wines further winemaking has focused on the terroir of the region and vineyards Yamanashi Prefecture is surrounded by mountains and contains wine-producing areas with vastly different conditions We hope this year’s tasting provides an opportunity for the UK trade to taste through the diverse range of Koshu wines available and explore the impact of terroir on each wine’s character and flavour.” Attendees are also welcome to dive deep into the region’s terroir at one of two masterclasses hosted by Sarah Jane Evans MW head of wine at The Audley and Mount Street Restaurant and UK Sommelier of the Year 2023 These expert-led sessions will explore a variety of wines from different wineries illustrating how site-specific factors in Yamanashi Prefecture influence the characteristics of the wine Evans comments: “I’m very excited to host a masterclass again at this year’s Koshu of Japan tasting Since Koshu of Japan first launched its campaign in the UK in 2009 the wines have grown in character and diversity we will explore the different terroirs of the wines: not just the distinct soils of the Yamanashi Prefecture but also the different characters of the growers and winemakers.” the Koshu of Japan tasting in London will feature wines from Aruga Branca by Katsunuma Jozo Swiecka states: “Following my visit to the Yamanashi Prefecture last year I am delighted to be hosting a masterclass at this year’s Koshu of Japan trade tasting Koshu is such an exciting and diverse grape and terroir plays a big role in the flavour of the wines I hope to see Koshu wines appearing on more and more wine lists across the UK.” Register your interest to join the tasting here by 31 January winemaking in Japan started in 1874 by individuals living in Yamanashi Prefecture’s Kofu City Dainippon Wine Company sent two young men to France to learn how to make wine leading to the start of wine production in Japan using the native Koshu grape The Koshu grape is considered the most important indigenous grape variety in Japan It was developed from grapes that travelled the Silk Road across Central Asia from the Caucasus to China and Japan around a thousand years ago fruity aromas and overtones of citrus and peach pairing exceptionally well with traditional light Japanese foods such as sushi and tempura seafood Winegrowers worked tirelessly to improve their wines’ quality there are 80 wineries in Yamanashi Prefecture long days of sunlight and well-drained volcanic soils which encompasses the northern part of Mount Fuji We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings we will not be able to save your preferences This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again you will need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser GO TOKYO The Official Tokyo Travel Guide Detailed search: You can do a detailed search by keyword open calendar Search Note: The 2024 installment of this event has already taken place.The stunning rows of ginkgo trees along Hachioji's Koshu-kaido Road were planted during the Showa era their beautiful yellow leaves provide the perfect setting for a festival Local residents organize the Hachioji Ginkgo Festival held while these autumn colors are vibrant a wooden block that served as a transit pass in Edo period (early modern period) The festival is a chance to walk along the rows of golden ginkgo trees and witness the Hachioji residents' love for their area The retro ambiance is a particularly charming Free * Transit passes (tsuko tegata) are sold for 600 yen each Please check the official event website for the latest updates on opening dates and times Tripadvisor Copyright © Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau Return to top of page This year’s Koshu of Japan (KOJ) tasting at Japan House which brought together some 100 or more trade and press for a tasting of the nine collaborating wineries last week marked a further advance of these wines’ delicate footprint in the UK market who hosted one of the masterclasses at that event later said that “this year feels like a coming of age” highlighting the diversity of terroirs revealed within the styles from Japan’s pre-eminent wine region And in a world turning to naturally fresher more elegant wines – while also being open to discovery – Koshu is beginning to attract some attention Harpers took a separate deep dive into the world of Koshu following that tasting, courtesy of Grace Wine which hosted its first UK masterclass at London’s Trivet restaurant with winemaker Ayana Misawa presiding over the event Showing a range that folded in wines from differing terroirs ranging from 400m to 700m elevation in Koshu’s home in Yamanashi prefecture Misawa explained how the delicacy of this native grape typically dictates how it is handled in both vineyard and winery “Koshu is a semi-aromatic grape variety has crisp acidity and typically is lowish in alcohol white pepper and Japanese stone fruits,” she said “Everything is hand-picked and whole bunch pressed and the wines are in stainless steel,” Misawa added explaining that this helps to preserve the natural elegance that Koshu has become known for And the first three Grace wines shown certainly expressed the subtleties of the variety but aligned with a very clear sense of terroir from each given vineyard and plot For those in the UK that are only just becoming acquainted with Koshu from this fifth-generation century-old estate which collectively has the added emotive appeal of being produced in sight of Japan’s iconic Mount Fuji Misawa highlighted the relative youth of the region adding that the fresh lens of international varieties Grace has planted – namely Chardonnay Cabernet Sauvignon and (very promising) Cabernet Franc – are helping with understanding of the varied terroirs it’s fun to make and has so much potential but that’s not enough!” said Misawa The early results of this were revealed in a sample of Koshu Misawa Vineyard 2023 from volcanic soils some 700m in elevation which was fermented with indigenous yeasts and left to undergo malo and then mature in neutral oak barrels This was also shown alongside a 2014 stainless steel-elevated wine with the wine being mineral-fresh and complex “The last two wines are my ‘babies’ I want to make Koshu with ageing potential… my father made a very dry style plus barrel ferment and maturation,” Misawa revealed as with all that were shown (including an opening late disgorged blanc de blancs sparkling) They showed the range that Koshu can and does achieve and that charm appears to be winning converts – slowly but surely – in export markets such as the UK With Japan’s wine industry having grown from around 200 wineries to 500 in just a couple of short decades and with 80 of those producers in Yamanashi “Now almost 40% [of our wine] goes abroad confirming that others are increasing their exports too including the thirst of the domestic market for Koshu and a lack of overseas recognition for Japan’s wine producing scene As Misawa put it: “Everyone knows that China is making wine but no-one knows that Japan is making wine; they always think of rice wine recognition is growing and the export-focused activities of KOJ and others in markets such as the UK are beginning to bear fruit Koshu also now has its own UK ambassador in the shape of Luke Harbor group beverage director across The Pig hotel group with quality restaurants and indie merchants being the target channels intriguing piece of information from Misawa was the revelation that small plots of Koshu have been planted by adventurous winemakers in places as diverse as Napa Valley With global exports having fallen in recent years to sit at 50,000 bottles in 2023 (latest figs available but with the UK remaining steady at around 13,500 bottles it’s not quite world domination just yet But given how well these styles of wine sit with modern cuisines and drinking trends from its lofty appellation some 100km distant from Tokyo AWL announces creation of new global win... Robin Copestick joins Packamama board London Wine Fair announces line-up Gen Z shifts towards low & no alcohol am... Diageo GB announces new marketing and in... LWC and MDCV enter new on-trade partnership You can now view the latest Harpers supplement with our digital edition... View the Top 100 2024 competition results here.. Vergelegen – continuity and change on the Schapenberg Talking innovation and opening doors with LWC Koshu brings flavour of Japan to London Reh Kendermann: Sales Manager UK The city of Ames needs roughly 14 families to host a delegation of Japanese middle school students in October Ames Middle School students traveled to Koshu City, Japan in July, as part of the Ames International Partner Cities Association (AIPCA) educational exchange Story County is returning the favor when 20 students and five adults from Koshu City AIPCA President Karla McCollum told the Ames City Council on Tuesday that 20 host families are needed "We hope to show (the exchange students and adults) the same hospitality they showed Ames students back in July," McCollum said "They were so generous with our students." Families interested in hosting a student may apply to host a student may apply at https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSemKIn9_Xn2WKt6jJnHZh_Fok1QmYsElnMhJ8voyf3SzQ_x2A/viewform More: Ames is adding a mini-pitch soccer court to Lloyd Kurtz Park in the spring host families will help introduce a Japanese student to American life and create lasting connections they will learn about Japan and gain a firsthand perspective on Japanese customs and traditions McCollum said AIPCA is trying to keep things as low maintenance as possible Students will participate in scheduled activities throughout the day and into most evenings and there will be drop-off points for AIPCA to pick them up McCollum said most of the students' meals will be taken care of though families may have something for breakfast She added that two students can stay in the same house as long as they have separate bedrooms Questions can be directed to AIPCA at aipca@cityofames.org More: City of Ames denies claim that Pridefest had "no security precautions" Japan is currently Ames' only designated sister city "Our partnerships are more than symbolic," McCollum said education and innovation with our friends around the world cultural delegations or economic collaborations these relationships help us to see the world in a more interconnected way." a global leading beverage company with iconic brands such as Japanese whiskies Yamazaki is proud to announce that its Japanese wine SUNTORY FROM FARM Tomi Koshu 2022*1 won the gold medal at 2024 International Wine and Spirits Competition (IWSC). SUNTORY FROM FARM Tomi Koshu 2022 is the first vintage from the company’s flagship Japanese wine brand Tomi made from 100% ‘Koshu’ IWSC is one of the world's most influential competition in the alcohol industry founded in London Entries are judged in separate categories such as wine and spirits and its results attract the world's attention every year.This year 120 out of a total of more than 6000 wines that applied to IWSC’s wine category received the gold medal The company considers this result as a significant recognition to the quality and commitment in its winemaking.  “Launching wine made from 100% ‘Koshu’ grape from our flagship brand Tomi has been a long-held dream of all the craftsmen and members involved in our wine business,” shares Keiko Yoshio Division COO of Wine Brand Division at Suntory Spirits Ltd “We are very delighted that this first vintage of SUNTORY FROM FARM Tomi Koshu received the gold medal at IWSC 2024 one of the most prestigious competitions in the world With a goal to make our Japanese wine internationally renowned we will continue to challenge ourselves to further improve the quality of our Japanese wine products.” <Tasting Notes of SUNTORY FROM FARM Tomi Koshu 2022>It has a distinctive aroma of juicy fruits such as melon and Japanese mandarin orange with a hint of yellow flowers and honey on the nose Together with mild acidity and a bittersweet aftertaste this dry white wine expresses the concentrated rich flavor and elegant structure <Initiatives towards developing grape variety ‘Koshu’>Under the philosophy of “Fine wine comes from fine grapes” the company has been concentrating on growing fine wine grapes and producing high-quality wine by confronting the Japanese terroir for more than 100 years and evolving its cultivation and brewing technology a new brand series SUNTORY FROM FARM was established with a concept “FROM FARM” meaning “everything starts from the vineyard” With its attention to detail and commitment to high quality the company has been producing its wine by dedicating to produce fine wine grapes from unique terroir of Japan.‘Koshu’ is a grape variety native to Japan as defined by the International Organisation of Vine and Wine characterized by an elegant aroma of Japanese citrus fruits The company aims to develop ‘Koshu’ to a wine grape that is acclaimed and loved around the world.The company will expand the cultivation area at SUNTORY TOMI NO OKA WINERY and other company-owned vineyards so that more customers and consumers can enjoy ‘Koshu’ wine In order to produce ‘Koshu’ grapes that achieves the desired wine flavor the company will further its commitment to enhance its quality such as by improving the cultivation environment and methods and selecting only fully ripe bunches at harvest time.  About Suntory GroupAs a global leader in the beverage industry Suntory Group offers a uniquely diverse portfolio of products Suntory is home to award-winning Japanese whiskies Yamazaki, Hibiki and Hakushu, as well as iconic American spirits Jim Beam and Maker's Mark Suntory also fascinates the taste buds with The Premium Malt's beer and owns the exceptional Japanese wine, Tomi, and the world-famous Château Lagrange Its brand collection includes Sauza Tequila non-alcoholic favorites Orangina, Lucozade, Ribena, BOSS coffee, Iyemon green tea, Suntory Tennensui water, TEA+ Oolong Tea, V and BRAND’S as well as popular health and wellness product Sesamin EX.  Founded as a family-owned business in 1899 in Osaka Suntory Group has grown into a global company operating throughout the Americas with an annual revenue (excluding excise taxes) of $20.9 billion in 2023 Its 41,511 employees worldwide draw upon the unique blend of Japanese artisanship and global tastes to explore new product categories and markets As a corporation sustained by the gifts of nature and water Suntory Group will always protect the ecosystems that deliver water not only of its business and the rich experiences the group creates for people's lives Suntory Group will continue to be a company where everyone is empowered with the freedom and flexibility to innovate Suntory seeks to inspire the brilliance of life or inaccuracies in the content shared in this press release or if a press release needs to be taken down we urge you to notify us immediately by contacting error@releasecontact.com (it is important to note that this email is the authorized channel for such matters sending multiple emails to multiple addresses does not necessarily help expedite your request) Our dedicated team will be readily accessible to address your concerns and take swift action within 8 hours to rectify any issues identified or assist with the removal process We are committed to delivering high-quality content and ensuring accuracy for our valued readers Indices Commodities Currencies Stocks Volume 11 - 2020 | https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2020.532211 This article is part of the Research TopicFunctional Genomics in Fruit Trees: from ‘Omics to Sustainable BiotechnologiesView all 9 articles Koshu is indigenous to Japan and used as a table and processing grape It also constitutes an important grape cultivar in Japanese white wine making and is phylogenetically distinct from European grapes we compared its small and structural variations with those of the table grape cultivar “Thompson seedless” and European wine grape cultivar “Tannat” via a short-read-based resequencing approach The Koshu genome exhibited high heterozygosity compared to these cultivars with this characteristic being particularly prominent on chromosome 7 Koshu structural variation encompassed the most and largest extent of duplications and the fewest and smallest extent of deletions with regard to copy number variation and the fewest absence variations among the compared grape cultivars Plant disease resistance related to cell death associated with hypersensitive response and environmental stress response was inferred through enrichment analysis of small and structural variations Variant accumulation levels in Koshu indicated that phenylpropanoid and α-linolenic acid pathways were related to polyphenol and flavor components this Koshu genomic information provides a foundation for improving the quality of Koshu wine and may facilitate the use of Koshu as a genetic resource The “whole-genome resequencing” approach can exhaustively clarify variations such as single-nucleotide variation (SNV) and presence/absence variation (PAV) through comparison with an object organism genome as the reference genome present-day grape research can be approached from the genomic level and trait-associated genetic differences between individuals or lineages can be predicted or determined from such polymorphic information although such studies have elucidated several functional mechanisms the whole genomic information of Koshu has remained unknown a good understanding of the Koshu genome would be expected to lead to improvements in quality of the Koshu plant and berry for breeding we first compared whole chloroplast genomes to estimate the phylogenetic relationship between Koshu and other grape cultivars or clones Whole-genome resequencing analysis was performed to understand the genomic variations of Koshu using PN40024 as the reference genome table grape cultivar “Thompson Seedless,” also termed Sultanina and European wine grape cultivar “Tannat,” which have existing sequence data were utilized for detailed comparison with the Koshu genome because the Koshu grape is used for multiple purposes the Thompson Seedless is a white grape similar to Koshu and used for various purposes whereas Tannat is used for winemaking as a black grape The characteristics of Koshu that differed from those of the other grape cultivars were estimated using gene variants The extracted DNA was purified using a NucleoBond AXG 100 column (Macherey-Nagel The purity and concentration of the extracted DNA were measured using a NanoDrop spectrophotometer (Thermo Fisher Scientific United States) and a Qubit fluorometer (Thermo Fisher Scientific) with a Quant-iT dsDNA BR Assay Kit (Thermo Fisher Scientific) Genomic DNA fragments were visualized by agarose gel electrophoresis and pulsed-field gel electrophoresis For the library construction prior to paired-end sequencing 1 μg of genomic DNA was fragmented by shearing to an average fragment size of 400 bp using an Adaptive Focused Acoustics sonicator (Covaris the paired-end DNA library was constructed using a TruSeq DNA Sample Preparation Kit v2 (Illumina and ligated with the paired-end adapter according to the manufacturer’s instructions The adapter-ligated DNA was amplified by 10 cycles of high-fidelity polymerase chain reaction (PCR) amplification and the amplified product was size-selected using agarose gel electrophoresis with the approximate insert size set to 300–400 bp Library quality and concentration were assessed using an Agilent Bioanalyzer 2,100 (Agilent Technologies The paired-end library were sequenced by 200 cycles (2 × 100 bp) using the Genome Analyzer IIx system (Illumina). Reads in FASTQ format were generated using the CASAVA v1.8 pipeline (Illumina). The sequenced read data were submitted to the NCBI Sequence Read Archive database (SRA)2 with the accession number SRR11234330 Accession numbers for a total of 127 V. vinifera entries were retrieved from the NCBI SRA database (Supplementary Table S1). Among these, genomic read data from the Thompson Seedless (accession numbers SRX316886 and SRX316887; Di Genova et al., 2014) and Tannat (accession numbers SRX283507 and SRX283818; Da Silva et al., 2013) cultivars were used for comparison of Koshu with European grape cultivars To infer phylogenetic relationships among the selected entries a neighbor-joining tree was reconstructed via the nucleotide distance measure of the Kimura 80 model with 1,000 bootstrap replicates using CLC Genomics Workbench 9.0 The reads of Koshu, Thompson Seedless, and Tannat were mapped to the PN40024 reference genome; the whole-genome sequence (assembly accession number GCF_000003745.3) and annotation data (annotation release 102) of Pinot Noir were retrieved from the NCBI Genome database4 and PCR duplicate removal were carried out similar to the procedures described in section “Phylogenetic Analysis” using CLC Genomics Workbench 9.0 Variant calling based on CNV was performed using CNVnator version 0.3.3 (Abyzov et al., 2011) The calling parameters were as follows: size ≥4,000 and E-value by t-test statistics < 0.05 variant calling based on PAV was run using the CLC Genomics Workbench built-in tool “InDel and Structural Variants” The genes contained in the identified regions were enriched as GO and KO terms using the web-based tool “DAVID 6.8” The enriched terms were statistically analyzed using the modified Fisher’s exact test (p < 0.05) contained in the tool The phylogenetic relationships of Koshu and 127 screened SRA entries were estimated based on the whole chloroplast genome (Supplementary Figure S2) The dendrogram was divided mainly into three clades Although Koshu was related to the clade including Pinot Noir it was not completely united therewith and showed an independent divergence which were used in the comparative genome analysis were related to different clades from that of Koshu We utilized a high-throughput DNA sequencing approach to clarify the genomic information of Koshu. The sequenced data outputted approximately 96.63 Gb of total nucleotides of through the paired-end and mate pair sequencing approaches (Supplementary Table S2) We prepared the clean reads of the two European V and Tannat to the PN40024 reference genome was 88.71 The average read depth of the cultivars was 79.80× The 2-bp deletion was most common only in the deletion size distribution for Koshu whereas the 1-bp deletion was prevalent in other cultivars The ratios of heterozygous/homozygous variants were the highest for Koshu over the whole genome (Figure 1 and Supplementary Table S3) the heterozygous/homozygous ratios of the SNV variants for Thompson Seedless and Tannat were <1 Koshu exhibited higher heterozygosity than homozygosity on all chromosomes The average variant frequencies including SNVs and InDels were 4,159 variations/Mb in Koshu The highest SNV and InDel frequencies per Mb in Koshu and Tannat were found on Chr17 (4,035 SNVs/Mb) and Chr6 (916 InDels/Mb) Chr10 (3,189 SNVs/Mb) and Chr6 (878 InDels/Mb) and Chr11 (6,025 SNVs/Mb) and Chr11 (1,006 InDels/Mb) the lowest SNV and InDel frequencies per Mb were found on Chr2 (2,613 SNVs/Mb and 540 InDels/Mb) and Chr19 (3,525 SNVs/Mb and 527 InDels/Mb) Frequencies per Mb of homozygous and heterozygous variants based on SNVs and InDels in each chromosome for Koshu The dN/dS ratios for Koshu and Tannat were similar The enriched GO terms from these genes were then categorized by biological process (BP) Characterization by gene ontology and KEGG ontology enrichment analyses of non-synonymous variants in Koshu (A) Venn diagram of the number of genes with non-synonymous variations for the three cultivars (B) Violin plot showing the ratio of non-synonymous substitution to synonymous substitution (dN/dS) The yellow lines indicate the frequency distribution of dN/dS in each chromosome; the purple lines indicate the average dN/dS ratio for the chromosomes; the dashed line indicates the average dN/dS ratio for the three cultivars The GO and KO terms that met the significance level (p < 0.01) in any one of the three cultivars were displayed on a heatmap (Figure 3 and Supplementary Tables S5, S6) The enrichment identified GO terms with 38 BPs Terms that were enriched in only Koshu included six BPs (“hydrogen peroxide catabolic process,” “response to water deprivation,” “response to oxidative stress,” “plant-type cell wall organization,” “defense response to other organism,” and “anion transmembrane transport”); two CCs (“plant-type vacuole membrane” and “plasma membrane”) six MFs (“cellulase activity,” “phosphorelay sensor kinase activity,” “heme binding,” “O-methyltransferase activity,” “iron ion binding,” and “transmembrane transporter activity”); and six KOs (“glycine serine and threonine metabolism,” “inositol phosphate metabolism,” “porphyrin and chlorophyll metabolism,” “ascorbate and aldarate metabolism,” “beta-alanine metabolism,” and “nicotinate and nicotinamide metabolism”) Enrichment of gene sets with non-synonymous variations for the three cultivars Significantly enriched terms are shown by color gradient The right side of each heatmap lists profiled significant gene ontology and KEGG ontology terms Non-synonymous substitution levels for metabolic genes in the three cultivars were shown by gradient color in each reaction module on a KEGG pathway map (Figure 4) We focused on “phenylpropanoid biosynthesis (vvi00940),” “flavonoid biosynthesis (vvi00941),” “glutathione metabolism (vvi00480),” and “α-linolenic acid metabolism (vvi00592)” as being related to the astringency and/or flavor of wine Most of the reaction modules for Koshu and Tannat exhibited similar accumulation levels Variant accumulation by non-synonymous substitution in four pathway maps (A) Phenylpropanoid biosynthesis (vvi00940) (C) glutathione metabolism pathway (vvi00480) and (D) α-linolenic acid metabolism (vvi00592) Color in the rectangular boxes indicates variant accumulation levels for Koshu (left) The numerical value bar at the upper right shows variant burden the structural variation of Koshu contained the largest amount of CNV duplication and the smallest amounts of CNV deletion and absence variations Figure 5. Circos plot showing the detection frequency of CNVs and PAVs for Koshu (red), Thompson Seedless (blue), and Tannat (gray) using Circos (Krzywinski et al., 2009) Enriched GO and KO terms from genes in these structural variant regions were also detected in the three cultivars (Supplementary Tables S9, S10) The number of terms that were enriched in Koshu was less than those in Thompson Seedless and Tannat The terms that were enriched in Koshu comprised two BPs (“hydrogen sulfide biosynthetic process” and “developmental process involved in reproduction”) two MFs (“ADP binding” and “adenylylsulfate kinase activity”) and one KO (“plant-pathogen interaction”) Although chromosome 7 of Koshu has not been reported in such genetic research the development of microsatellite markers derived therefrom may be effective owing to its high heterozygosity Non-synonymous substitutions and structural variations are considered to affect the in vivo functions of Koshu we focused on the following variant information related to growth and secondary components these genetic variations may reduce hypersensitive cell death in Koshu These results suggested the involvement of these gene variations of Koshu in growth and environmental stress adaptation which are similar to those of a red wine cultivar might be influenced by variant accumulation in polyphenol-related pathways as a result of the non-synonymous variations in the Koshu genome Koshu tends to produce jasmonic acid in this branching pathway over hexenal and 3MH production in Koshu may be dependent on the amount of hexenal rather than glutathione the polyphenol genes differentially enriched in Koshu might suggest a higher phenolic content in the berries and wine Although wine taste is affected by terroir wine grape genomes clearly affect wine quality and play a vital role in viticulture By further expanding and improving the genomic information of wine grapes the improvement of wine cultivars can be expected through application of genome-wide association studies The datasets generated for this study can be found in the NCBI SRA database (accession number SRR11234330) KT and YH designed and performed genomic data analysis SE and SS prepared the materials and data and offered advice regarding the study All authors have read and approved the final manuscript This research was partly supported by the Kieikai Research Foundation (No the University of Yamanashi Research Grant (to SS) the Cooperative Research Grant of the Genome Research for BioResource and the Japan Society for the Promotion of Science Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research Grants JP20K15516 (to SE) The authors declare that the research was conducted in the absence of any commercial or financial relationships that could be construed as a potential conflict of interest The Supplementary Material for this article can be found online at: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2020.532211/full#supplementary-material and characterize typical and atypical CNVs from family and population genome sequencing Characterization of a class III chitinase from Vitis vinifera cv Comprehensive and comparative lipidome analysis of Vitis vinifera L The potential aroma and flavor compounds in Vitis sp Chardonnay under different environmental conditions Biochemical characterization of the suberization-associated anionic peroxidase of potato Distinct roles of jasmonates and aldehydes in plant-defense responses A set of microsatellite markers with long core repeat optimized for grape (Vitis spp.) genotyping The high polyphenol content of grapevine cultivar Tannat berries is conferred primarily by genes that are not shared with the reference genome Whole genome comparison between table and wine grapes reveals a comprehensive catalog of structural variants Genomic plant DNA preparation from fresh tissue-CTAB method Google Scholar Physiological characterization of leaf and internode after bud break in Japanese indigenous Koshu grape by comparative RNA sequencing analysis Identification of grapevine cultivars using microsatellite-based DNA barcodes Histological study of the responses of two Vitis vinifera cultivars (resistant and susceptible) to Plasmopara viticola infections Genetic analysis of East Asian grape cultivars suggests hybridization with wild Vitis Antioxidant activity of various part of Koshu grape Google Scholar The DAVID Gene Functional Classification Tool: a novel biological module-centric algorithm to functionally analyze large gene lists The grapevine genome sequence suggests ancestral hexaploidization in major angiosperm phyla MAFFT multiple sequence alignment software version 7: improvements in performance and usability Silencing the jasmonate cascade: induced plant defenses and insect populations Molecular characterization of Japanese indigenous grape cultivar ‘Koshu’ (Vitis vinifera) leaf and berry skin during grape development Characterization of phenolic compounds biosynthesized in pink-colored skin of Japanese indigenous Vitis vinifera cv Environmental stress enhances biosynthesis of flavor precursors S-3-(hexan-1-ol)-glutathione and S-3-(hexan-1-ol)-L-cysteine in grapevine through glutathione S-transferase activation Development of SSR markers linked to QTL reducing leaf hair density and grapevine downy mildew resistance in Vitis vinifera Resistance of Vitis germplasm to Elsinoë ampelina (de Bary) shear evaluated by lesion number and diameter Circos: an information aesthetic for comparative genomics Ectopic overexpression of vacuolar and apoplastic Catharanthus roseus peroxidases confers differential tolerance to salt and dehydration stress in transgenic tobacco Down-regulation of an anionic peroxidase in transgenic aspen and its effect on lignin characteristics Production of reactive oxygen intermediates (O2- and OH) by maize roots and their role in wall loosening and elongation growth A novel cold−inducible gene from Arabidopsis encodes a peroxidase that constitutes a component for stress tolerance Pathview: an R/Bioconductor package for pathway-based data integration and visualization Levels of glutathione and activities of related enzymes during ripening of Koshu and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and during winemaking Google Scholar Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties Google Scholar Cellular expansion and gene expression in the developing grape (Vitis vinifera L.) BoxPlotR: a web tool for generation of box plots Evaluation of downy mildew resistance in various accessions of wild Vitis species CrossRef Full Text | Google Scholar VvEXPA14 and VvEXPA18 promote cell expansion in transgenic Arabidopsis plant Identification of new volatile thiols in the aroma of Vitis vinifera L doi: 10.1002/(SICI)1099-1026(199805/06)13:3 Cloning and characterisation of a basic IAA oxidase associated with root induction in Vitis vinifera A high quality draft consensus sequence of the genome of a heterozygous grapevine variety Enhanced disease resistance in transgenic carrot (Daucus carota L.) plants over-expressing a rice cationic peroxidase The eco-geographic distribution of wild grape germplasm in China CrossRef Full Text | Google Scholar Warnes, G. R., Bolker, B., Bonebakker, L., Gentleman, R., Andy Liaw, W. H., Lumley, T., et al. (2015). Gplots: Various R Programming Tools for Plotting Data. R Package Version 2.17.0. Available online at: http://CRAN.R-project.org/package=gplots (accessed January 26 Google Scholar Characteristics of white wine grape cultivars ‘Koshu’and ‘Riesling Lion’ Overexpression of the aspartic protease ASPG1 gene confers drought avoidance in Arabidopsis Evolutionary genomics of grape (Vitis vinifera ssp The population genetics of structural variants in grapevine domestication Suzuki S and Enoki S (2020) Genomic Characterization of the Japanese Indigenous Wine Grape Vitis sp Copyright © 2020 Tanaka, Hamaguchi, Suzuki and Enoki. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY) distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted provided the original author(s) and the copyright owner(s) are credited and that the original publication in this journal is cited in accordance with accepted academic practice distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms *Correspondence: Shinichi Enoki, c2Vub2tpQHlhbWFuYXNoaS5hYy5qcA== Disclaimer: All claims expressed in this article are solely those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of their affiliated organizations Any product that may be evaluated in this article or claim that may be made by its manufacturer is not guaranteed or endorsed by the publisher 94% of researchers rate our articles as excellent or goodLearn more about the work of our research integrity team to safeguard the quality of each article we publish Purpose Domains Drivers Profile Investors Newsroom Long-Term Management Vision Value Creation Model Corporate Governance CSV Management Health and Well-Being Community Engagement Respect for human rights Responsibility of Kirin Group which runs Alcoholic Beverage Businesses Food & Beverages domain Health Science domain Pharmaceuticals domain Core Technology that Assures Value Creation Diversity and Inclusion, Culture for Innovation Corporate Policy Corporate Overview Group Companies Company History Our Approaches in Quality Chart Generator Management Policy Financial Data Non-Financial Information Share-related Information IR Library Management Structure CSV Commitments as of 2025 Marketing Communication Policy(MCP) Sustainable supply chain Engagement Holistic Environmental Management Information Disclosure Based on the TCFD Framework, TNFD Framework Draft, etc. Dealing with alcohol-related problems General Meetings of Shareholders Integrated Report Sales Overview Kirin Group Environmental Report Kirin Group Human Rights Policy Activities to Promote Sustainable Procurement JICA-KIRIN Fellowship Program KIRIN CSV REPORT 2020 KIRIN CSV REPORT 2019 KIRIN REPORT 2018 KIRIN REPORT 2016 KIRIN REPORT 2015 Fellow Introduction Strengthening Our Non-Financial Assets Financial & Non-Financial Highlights To Our Stakeholders Kirin’s Foundation for Value Creation KEY POINTS ABOUT KIRIN 2 2024 – Mercian Corporation (Mercian) and Viña Concha y Toro (Concha y Toro) have launched the “Pacific Link Project” the first time that the two companies have collaborated to produce wines together Château Mercian Iwade Koshu Amicis 2023 exports to Singapore will begin this spring Château Mercian has been well received by customers with sales reaching 1 billion yen for the first time in 2023 we are also expanding our overseas sales against the backdrop of growing attention to Japanese wines; in addition to the United Kingdom we newly started exporting to Italy in 2023 is a white wine that takes advantage of the taste of Koshu while having a well-balanced acidity and sweetness that makes it more drinkable for overseas customers thanks to our collaboration with the Concha y Toro winemakers Through the “Pacific Link Project,” we will work to “add value” to wine communicate the appeal of wine to customers Mercian and Concha y Toro have each been making sustainable wine in harmony with nature and their region since their inception Both companies also continue to pursue the high quality of taste that customers demand Although the countries and winemaking environments are different the companies’ shared belief in winemaking and desire for a better future resonated with each other and led to the realization of this project we hope to advance each other’s winemaking and contribute to a more attractive future for the wine industry This wine has a good balance of fresh fruit flavors and fullness along with aromas of Japanese citrus fruits yuzu This wine is the result of collaboration between the winemakers of Concha y Toro and Château Mercian bringing together the experience and skills of both companies Please enjoy the harmony of these two world-class philosophies as this wine will further deepen the bond between Concha y Toro and Château Mercian Limited is an international company that operates in the Food & Beverages domain (Food & Beverages businesses) Pharmaceuticals domain (Pharmaceuticals businesses) and Health Science domain (Health Science business) Kirin Holdings can trace its roots to Japan Brewery which was established in 1885 Japan Brewery became Kirin Brewery in 1907 the company expanded its business with fermentation and biotechnology as its core technologies and entered the pharmaceutical business in the 1980s all of which continue to be global growth centers Kirin Holdings was established as a pure holding company and is currently focusing on boosting its Health Science domain Under the Kirin Group Vision 2027 (KV 2027) a long-term management plan launched in 2019 the Kirin Group aims to become “A global leader in CSV* creating value across our world of Food & Beverages to Pharmaceuticals.” Going forward the Kirin Group will continue to leverage its strengths to create both social and economic value through its businesses with the aim of achieving sustainable growth in corporate value * Creating Shared Value: combined added value for consumers as well as for society at large 「Château Mercian Iwade Koshu Amicis 2023」 Download Unique Wine Varietal is the First of its Kind to be Produced in the US Napa, CA— Kazumi Wines a Japanese American owned boutique winery in Napa Valley is excited to announce the release of their 2021 Napa Koshu delicate white wine is made from the ancient Japanese Koshu grape making Kazumi Wines Koshu the first of its kind to be produced in the United States which first arrived in Japan over a thousand years ago via the Silk Road is grown primarily in the Koshu Valley in Japan’s Yamanashi Prefecture The fruit is thick-skinned and hardy with a dusky pink hue that can produce a wide range of wines from delicate white to sparkling to orange and even red wines. Napa Valley has a different terroir from Yamanashi ideal growing season of warm days and cool nights The Koshu grapes mature slowly and results in smaller concentrated grapes compared to the grapes grown in Japan making the Napa Valley version of Koshu quite different than the traditional Japanese Koshu “We are so excited to introduce Koshu to wine lovers in the United States,” says Kazumi Wines Founder Michelle Sakazaki “Koshu will appeal to those that like more delicate white wines but especially suited for seafood and Japanese dishes.” The Koshu grape was discovered in the United States nine years ago by Japanese intern at Foundation Plant Services (FPS) at UC Davis The original Koshu vines at FPS were donated to the United States 95 years ago from a Japanese university but were infested by two viruses and not usable FPS successfully cleaned the Koshu vines and made them available for propagation Kazumi Wines purchased those very Koshu canes from FPS and with the cooperation of some of the best growers in Napa Valley grafted the canes and planted them in a few vineyards across Napa Valley a varietal that represents her Japanese heritage to the United States has been a labor of love for Sakazaki a ton of Koshu grapes were harvested from a vineyard in South Napa and 600 bottles produced for its inaugural release The 2022 vintage is shaping up nicely in the vineyard and Sakazaki anticipates being able to produce up to 1,800 bottles/150 cases that will be sold by allocation only.  Founder Michelle Kazumi Sakazaki is Japanese American born in California and raised in Tokyo. After a career as a fashion designer helping her father manage their family business “90 Plus Wine Club” in Napa She realized her dream of creating her own wine label in 2015 Kazumi Wines produces some of the finest Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon in the Napa Valley Kazumi Wines harvested and produced the first of its kind Koshu Wine in the United States Kazumi Wines is proud to be representing a minority group in the wine industry and introducing a Japanese varietal to American consumers and beyond © 2007 - 2025 | Wine Industry Network LLC. All Rights Reserved. concentration and intensity than ever before The producers are brave enough to add layers with ambient yeast or lees ageing or skin contact rather than just oak and they are expressing the terroir of the magical land where they’re grown.”Koshu Wines of Japan tasting line-up You can dread some morning online tastings fat and bold and you’re still tasting the toothpaste as you’re trying to write your notes But they are still always more than worth it especially when you get to hear from the winemaker before they hit the hay after their long day in the vineyards So when you get to see the winemakers and taste through a range of beautifully aromatic, delicate, yet supremely intense wines that can’t help but wake you up and put you in a great mood for the day? It’s really a lovely way to kick off any day. The recent Koshu of Japan tasting had me smiling all day I first came across Koshu as a wine grape about five or six years ago at a masterclass in London I remember at the time thinking they were very pretty but few really blew me away and nearly every wine in the tasting was looking for an importer but it does make it slightly tricky to extol the virtues of putting some of these wines on people’s wine lists when you can’t get hold of them Fast forward to February 2023 and the picture is very different this was my first experience of Koshu for a few vintages The difference in both the quality and availability and not least the choice of hosts in the enigmatic Poh Tiong Ch’ng and ever charming Dr Neil Beckett made this a very enjoyable tasting to get to write up What you need to know about Koshu Wines of Japan Koshu wine: the quality is there as are lower ABVs The best Koshu wines are beautifully delicate sitting towards the lower end of the alcohol scale and at the higher end of acidity scale They’re also intense and full of flavour – something our hosts were quick to point out was far from a contradiction “Don’t confuse intensity with power,” warned Dr Beckett “Some of the most intense pieces of music are performed pianissimo.” Not to be outdone on the cultural similes Ch’ng added his own opinion that “Koshu is like painting with watercolours Having played the drums as a kid and not owning a paint brush under four inches wide Another important distinction is that there is invariably a slight hint of tannin in most of the wines which make them ideal as a disease-resistant variety in such a humid environment No amount of careful cellar handling (and these producers are incredibly careful!) can stop a hint of skin contact having an effect for me this only adds to the uniqueness of the variety There are also increasing numbers of styles available four were what we would consider to be ‘orange wines’ unfined and unfiltered white wines and even some boasting ‘struck match’ reductive notes we didn’t even touch on the sparkling wines being made across the prefecture The Koshu wines coming out of Japan are increasingly difficult Koshu wines from Japan are clearly on the rise Anyone who’s been lucky enough to attend the annual tastings in the last few years can attest to that Dr Beckett referenced a conversation with Anthony Rose author of the classic Wine Library book Sake and the Wines of Japan “Anthony started tasting these wines in 2012 and has often commentated on the huge improvement of wine quality,” recalled Dr Beckett “It wasn’t too long ago that Koshu was better known as a table grape The effort and energy and precision of the producers as well as the use of external winemaking consultants like the late and great Paul Pontallier has moved the standard of wines forward at pace.” Subtle changes in the vineyards are having an effect too Few wine regions in the world have to cope with the climatic issues faced by the winemakers of the Yamanashi Prefecture providing the hanging fruit protection from the humid ground “Yamanashi is warmer and wetter than you’d expect from a wine region,” explained Dr Beckett “The better producers are moving towards the best vineyards low yields and even experimenting with VSP trellising.” With the changes in quality and style range only two didn’t have an importer of which one (Suntory’s single vineyard Tomi No Oka 2020) sounded like they just didn’t have the volumes to have any for our market and Hallgarten & Novum have all joined the Koshu party Why should you be putting Koshu Wines of Japan on your lists seven of them would grace any list and I’m being conservative about the two that missed out as they were probably just a tad too adventurous for the average drinker But what they all had was that they were fun they were different to the usual wines you see in the ‘light and fruity’ section’ and They’ll have a stab at it and then the quality will keep them coming back for more Lower alcohol wines are something the wine trade has just not quite got right despite increasing attempts as consumers demand lower alcohol products Naturally lower alcohol wines are gold dust and Koshu fits the bill Across our tasting sample we were looking at wines from 10-12% These are great wines for lunchtime sippers or even those clients out dining on school nights It’s also worth seeing if you can get hold of some older vintages “The best Koshu can age for a decade or longer,” enthused Ch’ng “They can be similar to the best Hunter Valley Semillons or Loire Valley Muscadets.” I personally have never been lucky enough to try an aged example but Given the flavour and structure of some of the younger wines we tried there’s no doubt some of them would go on to be something really special in a few years Andrew Jefford recently asked what tomorrow’s Koshu wines will be like “We’ve got better fruit and concentration and intensity than ever before They are expressing the terroir of the magical land where they’re grown and the wonderful people who grow them.” Ch’ng revealed that Chinese winemakers are taking a keen interest in the grape too The historical circle would be poetic for a grape that is thought to have arrived in Japan along the Silk Road over a thousand years ago it’s clear that the stellar improvements year on year have made Koshu Wines of Japan an intriguing option for the buyers and sommeliers of the UK Made from 100% pergola grown fruit and fermented and aged in only stainless steel, this wine in particular showed off the interplay between the intense lemon and lime citrus with the fresh saline note that persisted throughout. Add in the white peaches, pears, and apples and you’ve got everything there from fruit to savoury notes, texture to length, and very drinkable with or without food. A very pretty wine. Imported by Hallgarten & Novum Wines For more information about Koshu of Japan, please contact the team at Phipps PR (KOJ@thisisphipps.com) Mike Turner is a freelance writer, presenter, educator and regular contributor for The Buyer. He also runs wine events and an ecommerce business, Feel Good Grapes that explores and discusses the idea of sustainability in the wine trade my first Koshu tasting was marked by an observation of how similar the wines were to one another – apart from a couple of truly outstanding wines they were remarkably uniform… Here I found a line-up of Koshu wines that were all medium-bodied with a little tannin in the finish – but not a harsh grip – and all under 12% They were all pretty well made but only one company standing out head and shoulders above the rest It was as though it was more commendable to make a wine that ‘fitted in’ rather than have a distinct individuality Neil Beckett and Anthony Rose (l-r) delivered a trade masterclass at the KOJ trade tasting in London began a masterclass at this year’s generic Koshu tasting with an observation that seemed to echo this “Just a few years ago it was quite easy to find an average Koshu wine but in 2020 that task is considerably more difficult.” The quality level is there in the steel-fermented Koshu to suggest that this is far more than a curiosity we are dealing with The tasting of wines from the nine producers who were showing their wines at the 2020 annual trade tasting evidenced a genuine notch up quality-wise The single-terroir wines from Grace still take a lot of beating but the gap between Grace and the other producers is not so vast The wood-fermented Koshu, some of which were too overtly oaky four years ago, not seemed better integrated and balanced. Likewise the sparkling (Lumière Sparkling Koshu 2017) and orange wine (Lumière Prestige Class Orangé There are only five producers currently making orange Koshu wine but given its undoubted quality – very dry sharp citrus edge – and the fact that producers can fetch one and a half times the price of regular Koshu – expect to see more of this That’s not to say these wines are ‘shouty’ in any way there is a subtlety to them which The World of Fine Wine’s editor Neil Beckett summed up at the masterclass when he said that Koshu has an intensity that is borne out of their quietness He used the analogy of classical music in that some of the most intense passages are Pianissimo – ie Perhaps the greatest surprise, though, were the red wines. Château Mercian Kamidera Syrah 2017 may come from young vines on 300m clay but the results were superb – notes of dark fruit and pepper prevailed with bright acidity and fresh mouthfeel – just 12.5% abv take note Grace Wine was showing two of the three red wines it now produces Cuvée Misawa Red 2017 and Akeno 2017 which are both Bordeaux blends using varying quantities of Merlot The Misawa was really complex with savoury notes of red pepper and mocha terrific texture and the Akeno was similarly complex but had a pretty floral note and considerable finesse and elegance – a Bordeaux at 12% abv anyone Yamanashi de Grace is dominated by Muscat Bailey A a red variety that Japanese winemakers are increasingly hanging their hat on Also impressive was Suntory TOMI Red 2015 which won an IWC award in 2018 for its 2013 vintage Like the Grace blends this is Merlot-dominated with a larger proportion of Petit Verdot in the mix bit of leather but such freshness and elegance; a really accomplished piece of winemaking Although all these reds hail from the main winegrowing region of Yamanashi an area to keep tabs on is the Northern island of Hokaido which is becoming the new cold climate frontier for Japanese wine – Pinots grown here will need to be followed closely with interest The Mercian Hokushin Left Bank Chardonnay 2018 from the Nagano region also shows real promise For more tips on which wines to seek out check out Chris Wilson’s excellent piece here which he wrote two years ago on this site also about how Koshu is no one-trick pony; interestingly last month’s tasting showed it was the same companies that are pushing the envelope it is just that the quality is noticeably improved Things you may not know about wine in Japan Th full line-up of wines shown at the Rose/ Beckett masterclass “If I were to include Koshu on my wine list, I would need to feature more than one to showcase the versatility of the grape,” says Isa Bal MS of the 2 Michelin-starred restaurant Trivet This statement comes after hosting the Koshu masterclass at the 15th annual trade tasting at 67 Pall Mall in London Recognising that it has not been the easiest time for the UK hospitality industry he remains optimistic about the future of Koshu in the UK particularly in the premium on-trade sector “Let’s face it; it’s not just about the wine It’s about the image of the producing country which is arguably one of the most positive in the world,” adds Bal who also believes that Koshu producers should leverage this positive image and strive for a permanent presence in the UK This is precisely what Koshu of Japan (KOJ) was set up to achieve Established in 2009 by 15 Japanese wine producers from Yamanashi Prefecture they have been championing Koshu wines worldwide A significant milestone was reached in 2013 when the Koshu grape gained recognition from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) Koshu has been making slow but steady progress with now six importers currently bringing Koshu wine into the UK With its limited production and premium price point Koshu remains a niche within a niche in the UK a wine educator for the Academie du Vin in Tokyo points out that “most Japanese don’t drink wine; roughly 10% do but not many would have tasted Koshu wine.” However he stresses that “it’s a famous grape variety and most Japanese would have heard of it.” 5 Koshu of Japan’s 15th annual trade tasting in 67 Pall Mall Even a bit further afield in Hong Kong and Taiwan Koshu’s popularity skyrocketed when the acclaimed Japanese television series Grand Maison Tokyo starring the renowned Takuya Kimura featured Grace Wine’s Gris de Koshu in a memorable scene the wine is still referred to as “Kimura wine.” Koshu’s name has spread beyond the circle of wine enthusiasts capturing the attention of many consumers in East Asia within a short space of time It’s a different scene across the globe in the UK those acquainted with Koshu likely remember its zen-like purity and neutrality often comparing it to Muscadet or Sauvignon Blanc Others might mistakenly associate it with Japanese Sake “We need more people telling the story of Koshu,” says Elyse Li, the MD of Japan Gourmet UK Li notes that “for many of our on-trade clients Koshu is primarily reserved for tasting menus rather than regular wine lists and we need more people to be passionate about it and willing to spread the word.” Much-needed enthusiasm for Koshu was easily seen during the recent KOJ Koshu masterclass hosted by Isa Bal MS Attendees were amazed by Koshu’s diversity and quality No longer limited to comparisons with only Sauvignon Blanc or Muscadet the Chateau Honjyo Koshu Sparkling Hoshiai-no-sora 2020 Others described Chateau Mercian Iwade Koshu Ortum 2021 as having a Burgundian style The Prestige Class Orange Wine 2022 from Lumiere Winery received a huge thumbs-up even from those not usually keen on skin-contact wines Sainte Neige Makioka Koshu Orange Wine 2022 is not only delicious but also features an adorable dog label inspired by one of the grower’s dogs that ‘barks a lot,’ making it the most Instagrammable wine of the day One can’t help but sense that a Koshu wine transformation is underway but it’s justified by the challenging growing conditions in Japan these are all premium wines and will need hand-selling in any case Place them in the right wine-focused restaurants and perhaps a few wine shops and “Before you know it But that presence needs to be constantly maintained,” says Bal He also has a word of warning for producers seeking representatives in the UK aiming to reach a broader audience if you bring Japanese food or wines and only sell them through Japanese distributors their reach is limited to Japanese outlets.” it seems Koshu is poised to reach its prime in the UK Ten Koshu wines and producers to have on your radar Soma Shiraishi of Iwasaki Jozo and Hiroki Fujimori of Academie du Vin Tokyo (r-l) Chateau Honjyo Koshu Sparkling Hoshiai-no-sora 2020 complemented by yuzu zest that brings a burst of fresh acidity Juicy mirabelle with a rounded texture and a savoury Aruga Branca Issehara 2022 (UK Importer: Japan Food Express) with a tangy pomelo note that culminates in a refreshing Takahiko Nozawa of Kurambon Wine and Elyse Li its UK importer Ueno Gourmet (l-r) SoL Lucet Koshu 2023 (UK Importer: Japan Gourmet) with a finish that combines richness from lees and a zesty touch Chateau Mercian Iwade Koshu Ortum 2021 (UK importer: Boutinot) accompanied by refreshing acidity and a lingering finish Winemaker and 5th generation of Grace Wine Koshu Misawa Vineyard 2021 (UK importer: Hallgarten & Novum)Savoury tones of roasted rice and genmaicha tea give way to the delightful essence of pickled peach on the finish Yamanashi Koshu 2022 (UK importer: JFC UK) with a rounded texture and a long limey finish Shigeki Kida (middle) owner of Lumiere Winery Prestige Class Orange 2022 (UK importer: Amathus Drinks) with orange peel notes and a peachy finish Mandarin and apricot flavours shine through accompanied by a subtle tannic grip from the skins It may surprise you to know that wines have been cultivated in Japan for at least a thousand years although the country’s wine industry didn’t begin to blossom until the 1860s in Yamanashi Prefecture Today wine is made in 36 of Japan’s 47 prefectures with quality production focused on the Koshu grape Pink-skinned Koshu makes wines in a variety of styles it’s not surprising that Koshu has become a popular choice with sommeliers who appreciate its food-matching potential on their restaurant wine lists To find out more about pairing Koshu with food head sommelier and wine buyer for the ROKA group prepared a special menu to showcase the food-friendliness of Koshu with the restaurant’s complex dishes it’s important for us to support all elements of Japanese culture,’ explained Blanchett ‘It’s great to see so many different expressions of Koshu now coming out of Japan – all of which make for great which is why we have it on our list at ROKA,’ she added Sparkling Koshu 2016 paired with a sashimi platter and one of ROKA’s signature dishes: yellowtail sashimi with yuzu-truffle dressing ‘The Lumiere has some creaminess on the palate which goes well with the texture of yellow-tail sashimi,’ noted Blanchett ‘The citrus notes of the wine also lift the flavours of the sashimi,’ explained Camilo ‘You’d expect to need a wine with high acidity to pair with fatty fish such as tuna But interestingly that’s not the case here,’ said McCombie ‘In fact I would avoid a wine with high acidity as it could make the fish taste quite metallic,’ added Blanchett Stand-out pairings from the sashimi platter included seabass cured in kombu with green chilli; the spice bringing out the fruitiness of the Koshu McCombie noted that the Lumiere made a ‘seamless match’ with tuna tartare creating a ‘textural and harmonious’ pairing The second course comprised three dishes: black cod and crab gyoza Blanchett matched them with the savoury Krambon ‘These three dishes are intrinsically linked thanks to their creaminess and a sweet protein element,’ she explained ‘The freshness and spiciness of the maki complements the wine,’ added Camilo ‘While a little bit of sweetness in the scallop nigiri contrasts the savoury nature of this Koshu.’ McCombie praised the pairings noting that Koshu makes a star match with sushi Grace Koshu Private Reserve 2017 was poured with the third course of sea bream fillet with ryotei miso and red onion served alongside spinach salad with rich sesame dressing ‘The wine becomes much more citrus and mineral with the spinach and sesame,’ said Blanchett The final course was an eye-opening pairing of Château Mercian’s orange wine Blanchett explained why she thought this style of Koshu could pair with meat: ‘This orange wine was interesting to play with with a toasted almondy and orange character We thought it would work very well with that richness of protein in this dish It’s a very gastronomic wine!’ Camilo added: ‘The rib-eye comes with a porcini mushroom sauce which is creamy and nutty and the dish is spicy as well because I’ve used arima sansho a seasoning made from the seeds of sansho peppers.’ McCombie was impressed with this daring pairing ‘The wine works particularly well with that rich porcini sauce,’ he said ‘Then the phenolic grip of the wine melts away with the beef.’ ‘The versatility of Koshu stood out today,’ concluded McCombie ‘These four wines could have handled any seafood and sushi I had positive expectations but they have been bettered The Koshu wines either sat in an area between harmony and balance with the food or they created something more transformational: bringing an extra dimension to the dish and lifting both the food and the wines.’ ‘I had only tried Koshu a couple of times before today,’ he said ‘The wines we tasted made some very clever pairings: from the complex to the simple Orange wine macerated on its skins for four weeks toffee and dried fruits and flowers; texture and grip on the palate pear and green apples with refreshing acidity A delicate but savoury style with umami and saline notes plus a spicy vanilla note from time in oak non-dosage fizz with moderate acidity in a fresh and mineral style First course: kampachi sashimi no salada – yellowtail sashimi with yuzu-truffle dressing; sashimi moriawase ni nin mae – semi-fatty tuna seabass cured in kombu with lemon yellowtail tataki cucumber and wasabi pea; gindara to kani no gyoza – crab black cod and prawn dumplings with chilli dressing Third course: tai no miso-yaki – sea bream fillet with ryotei miso and red onion; goma fumi no horenso salada – spinach leaves and sesame dressing Fourth course: robata-grilled rib-eye steak with arima sansho and parsnip crisps; tenderstem broccoli with ginger and moromi miso For more information contact JFOODO (The Japan Food Product Overseas Promotion Center). Visit: wine-jfoodo.jetro.go.jp/uk or email: jfb@jetro.go.jp invite visitors for wine tastings and exploration the fertile valley beckons with fruit farms and vineyards where centuries of winemaking traditions endure bolstered by more modern interpretations of wine country hospitality Western and native grapes are widely cultivated which turns out a soft and fruity white wine with citrus and peach notes which typically lends itself to a light and fruity red but may also be blended with Western varietals like cabernet sauvignon and merlot to make a heftier Beyond the vines, Japan’s volcanic geology ensures that the Koshu Valley, like much of the nation, is home to plenty of natural onsen If winetastings and hot springs sound like the perfect pairing a traditional Japanese inn) in one of the wine region’s valleys or surrounding mountain towns and stay a while Here, we focus on five of the Koshu Valley’s very best towns. Keep in mind, you’ll be well off-the-beaten tourist track in these parts: A translator may come in handy; Mount Fuji Yamanashi Guide-Interpreter Association (FYGIA) has many English-speaking guides in the region where you can even taste wine in an ancient temple a communal wine cellar established by several local wineries which also touts a hotel with onsen and several restaurants Where to Stay: The casual, six-room Suzuki-en B&B unfolds across several converted 19th-century wooden buildings set around a small courtyard and surrounded by vineyards enjoy a rustic stay in a traditional home at the Moshi Moshi House which turns out a wide range of Japanese and Western varietals in a 200-year-old building consider an excursion into the mountains: Within a 30-minute drive is the forested Mount Kurokawa where you can hike past an old gold mine (where Japanese coins were once sourced in the 16th century) Whether you hike (it’s six hours there and back) or drive Mount Daibosatsu’s summit is considered one of the best vantage points over Mount Fuji Where to Stay: If you’re feeling adventurous, rent one of Kamijo Village’s traditional thatched houses with a stay at the Moshi Moshi House, where you can opt in for a locals-led cooking class based on houtou noodles. Or try the minimalist, four-room Zen and Bed where daily meditation and vegetarian meals are part of the experience Stuck-in-time Ashiwaga is home to the Fujiwara House a mid-18th-century farmhouse turned community center a mid-18th-century thatched farmhouse-cum-community center that’s staffed by local farmers—many of whom are in their 80s and 90s—who serve visitors free green tea and sweets and love to speak about the area thanks to the stunning views of Mount Fuji from the bluffs of Mount Kurodake The hiking route is called the Shindo Pass (or Shindotoge) and during the summer it’s possible to see 2 million wild lily of the valley Where to Stay: There’s only one real lodging option in Ashigawa (apart from hiking lodges): rent one of two private houses at the folksy Loof Inn Ashigawa; it dates to 1907 and features an open-hearth communal dinner with more than 100 local and imported wines to choose from Where to Stay: While there are many ryokan to choose from, the 118-room Hanayagi No Sho Keizan is one example that really shines the town of Lake Kawaguchiko makes for an atmospheric base as one of the Fuji Five Lakes Photo by Phurinee Chinakathum/Shutterstock Where to Stay: Book a stay at the 27-room Mizno Hotel touting amenities like an open-air rooftop onsen and bar and swan-shaped paddleboats to take out onto Lake Kawaguchiko—all of which have glorious Mount Fuji in full view >> Next: A Guide to Traditional Japanese Food: 8 Essential Dishes to Try From Japan AFAR participates in affiliate marketing programs which means we may earn a commission if you purchase an item featured on our site.© 2025 AFAR LLC since people can apply for Japanese nationality after a mere five years in the country provided they surrender any other nationality we will accept that Koshu is Japanese and only Japanese the only other places you'll find it growing now are the South of France and the Rheingau with a sustained and efficient marketing campaign behind it and a great many critics giving its wines very respectable points or are the wines of these pretty pink grapes wearing little but emperor's new clothes Solaris Koshu Sur Lie from Manns Wines very pretty It’s true that these orange Koshus taste more like orange wines from anywhere than they do Koshu. But then what does Koshu taste like, in the end? If you were going to compare it to other wines you might pick Muscadet or Chasselas – something pretty neutral but fresh; delicate but able to stand up to food Delicacy and structure is a virtue.) Lovers of Koshu talk about how well it goes with raw fish and its accoutrements tells me that orange Koshu is perfect with Japanese uni sea urchins Such food matches – and Japanese food is not easy to match – give it a role both at home and in Japanese restaurants abroad especially where people don't mind spending money – Koshu doesn't come cheap freezing the grapes in order to give the juice the concentration it needs for barrel fermentation There is also some traditional-method sparkling and Kobo-no-awa Brut from Manns Wines (Charmat) is a winner Experimentation is taking Koshu in interesting directions Japanese producers have a record of bringing in good advisors: Paul Pontallier and Denis Dubordieu both consulted there and chimes with Japan's reputation for meticulousness and finesse – and Japanese wine is super-lucky in having its very own grape shows that they know what they're doing in both vineyards and winery The reason I'm only prepared to offer Koshu moderate applause so far rather than a standing ovation is because I don't think it has quite found its way yet These things take time; I remember Chilean "Merlot" from the 1980s and 1990s when many a critic claimed to adore its frankly horrible mix of chocolate and green bell-pepper flavors Once the Chileans had discovered that only part of it was Merlot and the rest was Carmenère and that the one ripens long before the other Chilean Merlot gradually turned into the ripe and delicious often enough to warrant watching Our latest update from the Bordeaux En Primeur front line features dry and sweet whites and a curious red Graves vintage The latest sales figures are bad news for producers hoping high-end wines will get them through these tough economic times It's all about music as much as wine as we round up this week's news from the wine world We conclude our search for the world's most sought-after wines with our overall top 10 Joe Biden might not be in the White House any more but his influence is still being felt at one crucial committee The science keep piling up: wine is good for your health Bordeaux En Primeur's Uncertain Start The En Primeur campaign for the 2024 Bordeaux wines has taken its first Ever wished you could hypnotize your friends into drinking better wine As traditional wine markets tighten and contract perhaps it's time to look at a previously overlooked wine market the death of Pope Francis was more than just another world leader's passing Ames is celebrating 30 years as a sister city of Koshu, Japan by hosting a delegation this week The sisterhood of cities started as a humanitarian effort and has evolved into an opportunity for retail businesses in both communities For decades, delegations from Ames have been visiting Koshu in the summer, and residents of Koshu have visited Iowa in the fall. The delegations alternate — half the time with middle school students as representatives and the other half with city leaders, Cindy Hicks, Ames International Partner Cities Association (AIPCA) including Mayor John Haila and Eric Smidt from the Ames Chamber The trip allowed locals to meet with Japanese dignitaries and the rest of the Ames group visited vineyards Small business owners in Japan focus on small batches and are not interested in mass production “We have that unique ability to share certain things to benefit our local retailers and to showcase things in Japan that are made here in Ames It will help celebrate that relationship that we’re wanting to promote.” the delegation from Koshu will visit Downtown Ames Iowa State University and the Ames Community School District Back-to-back cyclones devastated the Yamanashi area in 1959 Ames International Partner Cities Association (AIPCA) Richard Thomas was stationed with the Air Force in Tokyo then and heard about the agricultural devestatioin in Yamanashi Thomas spurred an airlift of 35 breeder hogs and some corn to Yamanashi by working with the United States government and officials in Iowa those 35 breeder hogs were 500," Hicks said nearly all of the pork in Japan it has a genetic connection to those original hogs from Iowa." it was originally a cultural and educational exchange “We would send students from Ames Middle School there hundreds of students from Ames Middle School have visited Koshu “They would stay with families there and live in a home just like the Japanese people did.” Children from the Japanese host families then visited Ames in the fall adult delegations would visit each other in the summer and fall Ronna Faaborg is a reporter for the Ames Tribune I’m standing in a vineyard where the vines look like small trees their branches spread in a high canopy with pink-skinned grape bunches protected from rain by small wax paper hats the unique white grape variety that the Japanese have been but the bigger surprise was how intriguing I found Japanese wines from more familiar grapes The most impressive one I tried was Grace Wine’s Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014 a traditional-method sparkling Chardonnay like a fine grower Champagne This led me to wondering whether Japan has to go beyond Koshu to become a global wine hot spot Koshu’s low-alcohol crispness and range of styles from sur lie to skin-fermented orange wines Pinot Noir and Chardonnay will be even more key in getting less adventurous drinkers to think of the country as the wine world’s new star Few drinkers realise that Japan is now home to four major wine regions and 418 wineries according to the latest figures from the National Tax Agency (Koshu grapes are grown almost exclusively in Yamanashi) the country took a big step forward towards international recognition and quality by requiring wines labelled ‘Japan Wine’ to be made from grapes that are grown in Japan New Zealand is probably the first country propelled to wine fame by a single variety with its distinctive Sauvignon Blancs Japan seems to be trying to follow its route It makes sense to lead with native grapes, especially when Koshu wines have improved so much in the past decade, thanks to advice from Bordeaux wine wizard, the late Denis Dubourdieu. Bone-dry (I don’t have equal confidence in Japan’s native red Muscat Bailey A a cross between an American hybrid and Muscat of Hamburg whose wines taste of candied strawberries.) But I hope winemakers will highlight their wines made from European varieties Many had a subtlety that seems to be a hallmark of Japanese wines The cool northern island is also the best bet for Pinot Noir which the world can never seem to get enough of almost every winery offers wines from varieties besides Koshu ‘Petit Verdot does especially well here,’ says winemaker Ayana Misawa a graduate of the University of Bordeaux who has also dabbled with Albariño In their focus on finding the right terroirs for specific grapes many wineries are turning to higher altitudes and making more single-vineyard wines at the forefront of growing Bordeaux grapes cherryish Premium Iwadarehara Merlot from a gravelly river terrace vineyard ‘Our goals have changed,’ says Hiromichi Yoshino of its wine development division Japan seemed a hotbed of the kind of experimentation essential for getting global attention Michelin-starred restaurants showcase the wines Next year’s Tokyo Olympics will spread the word to the world Fractional quantities of Japanese wine make their way past the country’s border so what is stopping them from gaining notoriety on a global scale Japanese farmers have been cultivating Koshu grapes for hundreds of years Grown primarily in the Yamanashi Prefecture even today the majority of Koshu production is for table grapes and other products The small percentage of berries that make their way into a bottle provide a lot of diversity despite the relatively small quantities. Master Sommelier Isa Bal hosted a Koshu of Japan masterclass at London’s 67 Pall Mall yesterday oak- and lees-aged still and orange wines on show all produced from Koshu two words come to mind,” says the sommelier who works at the newly-awarded two-Michelin-starred Trivet in south east London Both elegance and precision Bal ties to the winemaking itself “The most important part of terroir is the hand,” he says making it a blank canvas for different techniques “It’s a grape variety you can do so much with,” he says Pergola systems are used for the majority of Koshu vineyards in Yamanashi though more modern trellising techniques are also being used Sparkling wines are commonly made under traditional method and the orange wines from Japanese Koshu producers are light void of harsh tannins and exhibit the grape’s “elegance” “wines are predominantly made with Japanese consumers in mind” Japanese multinational Suntory owns three wineries in Japan Exports make up less than 1% of production volumes and the winery produces approximately 30,000 cases a year It’s a similar story for Japanese winery Château Mercian just 1% of its 67,000 cases produced each year make it overseas says interest is growing predominantly in the UK’s sommelier-led restaurants He says he receives more enquiries about wines from Japan than any others though demand is not growing as significantly as curiosity Lumière Winery — founded in 1885 by local lord T but still exports less than 10% of its 250,000 bottles produced each year the Philippines and Vietnam are among its export markets Japanese wines are present in the UK only in extremely limited quantities and price point is one of the major obstacles which imports just a couple of pallets a year which can easily translate to £100 on-trade Still relatively unknown as a winemaking country price can present a major “handicap” for Japanese wine “Capitalism does not care how good you are at what you do This is at odds with the economic situation in Japan where “nothing is cheap to produce” “The workforce is extremely expensive and if someone makes something really good they don’t want to mark it down in price.” Japanese wines therefore remain most popular in Japan, where they pair well with the cuisine. Bal believes that the larger producers will pave the way for development on the global wine stage, with smaller producers following in their footsteps, making “something more individual” to excite experimental drinkers. Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked * We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website. You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings. This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful. Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings. If you disable this cookie, we will not be able to save your preferences. This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again. which allowed Masterclass host Anthony Rose to really drill down into what is so unique about this distinctively Japanese grape This virtual tasting also facilitated a far larger audience for Rose’s insight key buyers who might not have been able to travel to a London-based tasting nor get a seat at one of the smaller including many top sommeliers and off trade buyers It was also somehow fitting to be alone in front of your computer screen at 10am with 10 immaculate examples of what the Koshu grape can do Koshu wine has an intensity borne out of its quietness – in the same way that Pianissimo is often the most intense passage in a piece of classical music This year was the 11th for Koshu of Japan to hold a generic tasting in the UK and in the past two years it has been the diversity of Koshu wines and Japanese winemaking in general that have been the key messages Such is the quality of the red wines now being produced by KOJ’s 15 members that the discovery of how good they are at February’s tasting in London particularly the low ABV Syrah and Bordeaux blends a celebration of the Koshu grape – a variety that almost certainly hails from Georgia but made its way across the Silk Road and found its true home in Japan a thousand years ago This is not to say that the 10 wines on show at this year’s tasting lacked diversity the wines were well chosen to demonstrate a range We started with the benchmark Koshu style of water-white wines and all made un-oaked with poise and precision And then from there we moved to wines that have more body It was like one of those Caran d’Ache pencil sets that have a gentle gradation of shades and colours but are all still precise uniform and clearly related to one another Like a Caran d’Ache pencil set: an intriguing array of subtle differences Koshu in its purest expression is adept at translating its volcanic soils to the palate in much the same way as other wines from volcanic islands so more work in the winery was evidenced – the saline fine textures of the benchmark Koshu being replaced by wines which had more body and richness It really was an intriguing array of aromatics and flavours The tasting really delivered on its promise – looking at the comments in Zoom’s chat facility throughout the event it was evident that many attending key buyers had not really experienced Koshu before with this level of focus this was the sixth Koshu tasting I have attended and the standard has risen remarkably in that time Where six years ago it was fairly easy to find an average-tasting bottle of Koshu that is clearly not the case any more even though Koshu has roots in ancient Japanese history it wasn’t until 2000 or thereabouts that the modern industry took off in any meaningful way What had happened was that in 1970 Japan ended its import tax and wine drinkers simply forgot about its indigenous grape Even now just four out of every hundred bottles consumed in Japan is Koshu so there is still a lot of catching up to do and a lot of education needed despite its upward trajectory (attributed to more people Events like the London Koshu tasting can only assist in KOJ’s aims of improving the quality of Koshu grapes wines and increase the awareness of these wines on global markets Most of the wines in the tasting were from the cool and rainy 2019 vintage that was challenging – some wineries got hit by hail four times in the season – and started 10 days later than normal with the fruit having extended hang time Having said that 2019 is noted for its ‘beautiful acidity and balance’ Fujiclair Koshu Sur Lie this winery’s Koshu was almost water white nuts and fennel; a slight twist of astringency/ saltiness in the background Haramo Koshu Pressed juice was added to free-run to add complexity and structure to the wine from this boutique Soryu Curious Type N the winery was founded by relatives of the two men who travelled to France to learn winemaking techniques returned and are credited with being pioneers of modern winemaking in Japan Grace Cuvée Misawa Akeno Koshu Winemaker Ayana Misawa doesn’t like the lees-style of Koshu winemaking thinking it adds yeasty flavours She uses vines that have vertical shoot positioning instead of traditional pergola trellising as it reduces yield and gives a natural intensity to the wines Characteristic mineral profile to the wines Lumière Prestige Class Orange two weeks skin contact and barrel-ageing are used in this orange wine; amber coloured with very expressive notes of orange zest A sommelier’s dream wine from Japan’s oldest family winery (established 1885) Château Mercian Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris Fermentation and ageing in steel and oak barrel brings a pale copper tone a winery that also hails from the nineteenth century Suntory Tomi no Oka Koshu Vertical-shoot vines’ fruit is added to estate-owned fruit to bring intensity and floral notes to this wine juicy and fresh which turns savoury in the mouth with an attractive grapefruit bite on the finish 16% of the wine is matured in French oak for five months Interesting that Suntory started life as a winery Kurambon N Koshu Fermented in barrel using indigenous yeasts with some biodynamic principles used in the farming gold hue to the wine and was the most Burgundian of the 10 wines with the barrel-ageing bringing texture and structure Manns Solaris Yamanashi Koshu Sure Lie Owned by Kikoman (“so they should know something about fermentation” said Rose) Manns is the largest producer of Koshu wines in Japan although the wine is still incredibly subtle Katsunuma Jyozo Aruga Branca Pipa almost nutty oxidative whiff; on the palate it is savoury Lumiere and Huggy are just some of the 11 Koshu of Japan wineries that Mike Turner samples Well there are very few trade tastings I get to go to these days where that’s true for more people than it isn’t so I’m fairly used to walking round with a permanent “aaaahhhh right?!” expression slapped over my face But recently London welcomed some interesting visitors that had more than muggings here reaching quickly for the notebook and pen… Tomi No Oka uses barrel-fermented Koshu in its wines The boys and girls from Koshu of Japan took over a hotel banqueting hall at London’s Halkin Hotel and I know I shouldn’t really start a review about wines like this Maybe they’d all been hitting the Yamazaki hard on the plane on the way over Koshu is a normal Vitis Vinifera grape that copes really well with the really tough weather conditions of Japan’s Yamanashi district at the foot of Mount Fuji but luckily one of the attendees (and guest speaker at the Masterclass I thank you very much) was the legend-in-his-own-underpants and all-round good guy and reliably informs me that the weather in the wine region can be silly wet and horribly humid not Wadsack) comes through year after year I’m trying to think of another grape where this is true but this is used as much as a wine grape as it is a table grape but it just goes to highlight what fresh fruit and citrus flavours these little pink jacketed bundles produce Of the 11 wineries present there was only a couple of things about Koshu that you could generalise about So pretty good for the lunch time crew or any chilli heat fanatics the citrus cut of every wine on show was booming I was going to go with fresh lemons and grapefruits The award-winning Grace wines “fresh as a daisy” Different winemaking styles then come into the mix. For me, my favourites were the plainer styles, stainless steel fermented, inertly kept and bottled fresh as a daisy like those of Grace Wine But that’s not to say the barrel-fermented styles of Tomi No Oka, and the sur-lie style of Mercian didn’t get me smiling. The bubbles stands of Huggy (tank method) and Lumière (traditional method) didn’t let up in visitors all day I guess a quick word about the Koshu of Japan people would be in order too Koshu of Japan are a marketing collective of wineries that are trying to get the word out to the world that this wine is worth trying Their biggest issue is that for rest-of-the-world standards If Asda-Walmart came a-knockin’ it’d probably take all of the nearly 80 wineries out in one single go But in being niche you need things done right One of Koshu of Japan’s biggest jobs is to train up the on-trade Mercian favours the sur-lie method with its Koshu wines That’s where most of the wine is being targeted after all These are undoubtedly wines aimed for Japanese food But obviously punters might need a little nudge in the right direction from sommeliers Anyone running a serious restaurant with these kinds of foods to go needs to get in touch with Koshu of Japan and sort themselves out a tasting Delicious as anything and a liquid conversation starter Current Importers include: Hallgarten Druitt & Novum Wines, JFC UK, S.K.Y. Enterprise, Eclectic Wines, Amathus, Tazaki Foods hosted on Zoom by wine author and broadcaster Jane Parkinson alongside former supermarket buyer and TV personality Joe Wadsack “I know what you’re all thinking” joked Parkinson at the start “how on earth am I going to get a word in edgeways when I’m co-presenting with Joe?” but the duo took us expertly through the history of wine in Japan and the eight wines selected for tasting “I was blown away by the attention to detail the progress they’re making here,” said Parkinson and Wadsack agreed Koshu may not be a name seen on most UK wine lists but the winemaking here is prolific with Japan boasting 891 wine grape growers equating to those of California and Chile combined where 80 wineries produce 40% of the national production and 95% of Japan’s Koshu The first evidence of grape growing dates back to 718AD but it was not until the 1500s when the Jesuits came to Japan and set up trading routes that wine was introduced to the culture in particular red wines from Portugal’s Douro which gained rapid popularity By the end of the 1800s people from Japan were travelling to Europe to learn about winemaking and bringing their knowledge back with them The southern tip of Yamanashi sits on the base of Mount Fuji which gets a lot of rain but Katsunuma “the beating heart” of the winemaking region is a bordered basin which is naturally protected from typhoon clouds and deluges and acts as a sun trap This is one of the warmest places in Japan but also has extremes of hot and cold useful for developing the grape’s flavours the combination of heat and summer rain is most comparable to Hunter Valley in Australia makes it “extremely complicated” said Wadsack to predict the nature of the vintages but it was “certainly better than 2019 and 2021 looks to be quite good” Most Koshu is for domestic consumption with wineries exporting a maximum of 30% and the top export markets are China KOJ say that although the UK is not the largest market It was fitting to start the tasting with Château Mercian‘s Iwade Koshu Ortum 2020 as the winery has secured many firsts for Koshu including being the first to win gold at IWSC the first to make a pink wine and the first wine in Japan to produce one million bottles Announced as a “good introduction” to Koshu this was typically extremely pale the proclivity to rot meaning skin contact is often avoided it being unusual to find Koshu above 12.5% “I love the tension of this wine” remarked Parkinson on its bright acidity only slightly softened by a bready aftertaste from gentle lees ageing “The calmer you are,” said Wadsack “the more you appreciate these wines. They are very subtle, very delicate but as I have discovered they are fantastic food wines for the right western match,” listing off fish pie, gratin, and cheesy, fatty dishes which complement the zippy acidity. We tasted through the immediate tropical hit of Manns‘ Solaris Yamanashi Koshu 2020 the name a nod to the long sunshine hours these vines enjoyed and Haramo Koshu 2019 which Winemaker Haramo-san created this cuvée specifically for the London market making a range of Koshu in his picturesque old wooden trading house which people book months in advance to visit Grace Wine founded in 1920 and arguably the most renowned “produces benchmark styles which are appreciated internationally and really capture the potential and quality that you get here,” said Parkinson Playing a “vital role in developing the Japanese wine industry in general” Grace won gold medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2018 and 2019 travelled the world to soak up international expertise before taking over as head winemaker in 2011 receiving the longest period of rainfall on record but the sun came out by mid-summer to rescue the season however intense berry selection was required “Not that you can tell,” said Parkinson of the Koshu Hishiyama Vineyard Private Reserve 2020 “it has a beautiful elegance and depth of flavour” Joe likens it to a Cru Chablis with its “teasing salinity” and umami making it incredibly versatile with food said Wadsack with Parkinson remarking on the “lovely lemon sourness punching its way across the palate” It is clear that both of our hosts are salivating Soryu is one of the oldest and largest producers of Koshu selling its first bottle in 1899 and playing a huge role in the country’s history and the cultural exchange of the 1800s Hikawa Valley Koshu Barrel Fermentation 2020 has had skin contact been aged in new French oak for two and a half months and is a relatively high 12.9% woody wine is “more phenolic than other wines we have” said Wadsack Oak is clearly something that needs to be used with caution in Koshu With the depth and structure of this wine we are advised to keep it cold and enjoy it with a croque monsieur Kurambon focuses on natural techniques and its N Koshu 2020 was a good vintage for them with the wine benefitting from the texture that organic winemaking and spontaneous fermentation can give “I think he’s pushing the limits here,” said Parkinson “you really get that vanilla you still get that searing freshness through it” “I think this wine is one of the best of his I’ve tasted,” concludes Joe Katsunuma Jyozo is one of the most consistent and interesting producers in Japan and Yoshichika Aruga’s studies in Macon are evident in the elegant style of the Aruga Branca Pipa 2018 “I think it is quite bold to take the decision that a 10.8% Koshu has enough hotspur,” said Wadsack “but I love this wine” likening it to somewhere between a Petit Chablis and Godello with its “raindrop falling on [your] head softness.” Of all the wines we taste this shows the most expert hand with wood use Orange wine is gaining popularity and we finished with Lumière’s Prestige Class Orange 2020 which is apparently the best Parkinson has tasted Producing wine since the 1880s and receiving a Royal Warrant Lumière created this wine with skin and seed contact and carbonic maceration Aged for six months in French oak this is a “fantastic example” with its apricot kernel Whether classically subtle or incorporating oak and skin contact the drive to offer different interpretations of Koshu is resulting in increasing experimentation in Japan; this masterclass managed to provide an insight into this wine’s versatility potential and also where Koshu may go in the future A total of 12 "Château Mercian" wines were awarded Château Mercian　Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris 2019 from Mercian Corporation (President: Michio Nagabayashi) was the only Japanese wine to win Gold at the International Wine Challenge 2021 It was also the first time in the competition's history that a producing region other than world-renowned orange wine producer Georgia won a Gold medal in the Orange Wine category Six other Château Mercian wines won Silver medals including the Icon Series Château Mercian Hokushin Left Bank Chardonnay Rivalis 2019 including the Terroir Series Château Mercian Mariko Chardonnay 2019 Château Mercian produces wines of exquisite quality They are committed to communicating this quality in Japan and globally in order to increase brand recognition and contribute to the development of the Japanese wine industry This wine has a sweet aroma like apple compote and lots of volume on the palate Its flavour expresses the essence of the skins of the Japanese indigenous grape variety Koshu Koshu comes from the Fuefuki District in Yamanashi Prefecture It is also becoming increasingly popular as "orange wine," which is made by fermenting white grapes with their skins True to our wine business slogan of “Creating a pleasant future with wine,” Mercian Corporation will continue to offer wines that bring people together to enjoy each other’s company and spend quality time ◆ Contest Name: International Wine Challenge 2021* Limited is an international company that operates in the Food & Beverages domain (Food & Beverages businesses) Under the Kirin Group Vision 2027 (KV 2027) creating value across our world of Food & Beverages to Pharmaceuticals.” Going forward Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker TOKYO, October 15, 2021 - Château Mercian Tamamoro Koshu Kiiroka 2018 from Mercian Corporation (a Kirin Group company) won the Platinum Medal in the Japanese wine division of Hong Kong Washu Awards 2021 (https://www.hofex.com/event/washu/) for Japanese drinks The Hong Kong Washu Awards was set up to evaluate Japanese drinks and started by 2020 Judging is by a team of female wine educators wine journalists and other food industry professionals an ambassador for sake and Japanese culture This wine has a harmonious blend of Japanese citrus fruit aromas 「Château Mercian Tamamoro Koshu Kiiroka 2018」 Download Despite predictions that rising violent crime would sink candidates who support criminal justice reforms those candidates mostly survived their 2022 midterm elections reform-minded prosecutor and sheriff candidates defeated incumbents in a few key races After the recall last year of progressive San Francisco District Attorney Chesa Boudin opponents of criminal justice reform were confident that voters' concerns about high crime in the COVID-19 era would translate into a national backlash Polling seemed to back them up: An ABC/Washington Post poll released in September found that 52 percent of respondents favored the Republican Party to handle crime compared to 38 percent preferring Democrats In a Greenberg Research survey that asked voters what they feared most if Democrats won full control of the government 56 percent of respondents chose "crime and homelessness out of control in cities and police coming under attack." "Criminal justice reform faces political buzzsaw as GOP hones its midterm message," was how one Politico headline from April put it But while rising crime created headwinds for candidates who supported criminal justice reform Kathy Hochul survived a challenge by Republican candidate Lee Zeldin despite attacks linking her to the state's bail reforms and an endless stream of New York Post headlines depicting New York City as a gore-soaked hellscape It was still a very good night for New York Republicans but not good enough to put them over the top the bail reform backlash did appear in Ohio and Alabama with both states passing ballot initiatives tightening the rules for releasing defendants before trial Democratic Senate candidate John Fetterman won despite a barrage of Republican attacks on his criminal justice record and supporting progressive Philadelphia District Attorney Larry Krasner another state where Republicans were hoping crime and general dysfunction would propel them to the governor's seat for the first time since 1982 Democratic candidate Tina Kotek defeated her Republican opponent Down the ballot is where things got more interesting who originally ran as a Democrat promising reforms Villanueva had been embroiled in a series of baroque scandals and drama for much of his tenure using his powers to retaliate against whistleblowers and the inspector general's office that is supposed to oversee his department Voters appear to have tired of the clown show a former district court judge and prosecutor who complained to Mother Jones that "defund the police" rhetoric "was basically giving the criminal element in our city and across the county the 'go-ahead and commit crimes' sign." Voters also showed the door to Massachusetts' longest-serving sheriff Hodgson was described as the "Arpaio of the east," a reference to former Maricopa County who was infamous for degrading conditions and constitutional abuses within his jail Hodgson's jail had been dogged by suicides and allegations of medical neglect and unsanitary conditions Leesa Manion defeated Jim Ferrell in the race for county prosecutor while both served as prosecutors in the office Ferrell had run on a platform of rolling back many of the reforms of the previous county prosecutor Civil rights attorney Pamela Price made history in California where she will be the first black district attorney ever in Alameda County after defeating veteran prosecutor Terry Wiley could only muster the enthusiasm to say that crime is still a concern for voters "In an evening where Republicans underperformed expectations an emphasis on public safety was still a boost suggesting that voters across the spectrum still care about a sane criminal justice policy," Manhattan Institute fellow Charles Fain Lehman said Every election is the result of its own very specific time and circumstances but one takeaway from the 2022 midterms is that criminal justice reform Get a daily brief of the most important stories and trends every weekday morning when you subscribe to Reason Roundup Δdocument.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value" C.J. Ciaramella is a reporter at Reason Δdocument.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value" is an up-and-coming winery where viticulturist Yasuhiro Ogihara and young winemaker Mayu Saito began brewing in 2013 The Kisvin wines are the result of the mutual recognition of each other’s individuality and the improvement of each other’s skills by the experts in viticulture and winemaking The name “Kisvin Winery” expresses the love for grapes that makes Ogihara-san and Saito-san who love grapes so much they want to kiss them an oenologist who has studied winemaking in California and Burgundy who has been involved in grape cultivation for over 20 years They believe that the quality of the grapes is directly related to the taste of the wine and they are committed to the cultivation of high quality grapes utilizing plant physiology and the latest cultivation management techniques Born into a family of grape farmers in Yamanashi Prefecture Ogihara took over the family business in 2001 and in the process of converting grapes from fresh to vinification he established “Team Kisvin,” a study group for vinification grapes in 2005 and began growing grapes for wine and expanding the scale of his business The group sold grapes to Chateau Sakaori Winery Co which recognized the high quality of the grapes and decided to vinify them in dedicated tanks Kisvin Koshu 2008 was then released by “Team Kisvin Kisvin established an agricultural production corporation and continued vinification at Chateau Sakaori Winery while establishing its own winemaking facility and beginning winemaking in 2013 The theory of cultivation changes with the times If you continue with the same old methods without thinking He has arrived at his current cultivation methods through years of accumulated experience sometimes denying what he is doing and sometimes responding flexibly to climate changes Ogihara cares for are well managed from corner to corner and the orderly arrangement of the grapes is impressive who chose to grow grapes on trellises because the leaves and berries close to the ground would be exposed to morning dew and high humidity under hedge cultivation places the utmost importance on “the health of the vines and berries he focuses on creating an environment suitable for photosynthesis as well as protecting the vines from pests and diseases The proper temperature for promoting photosynthesis is 20-25 degrees Celsius with the greatest increase in photosynthesis occurring around 9:00 am Too much sunlight will cause the temperature to rise rapidly and transpiration to increase and too much light will reduce the speed and efficiency of photosynthesis the upper leaves are exposed to direct sunlight but the lower leaves and fruits are exposed to soft light suitable for photosynthesis and protected by a moderate temperature range who manages his plots under herbaceous cultivation with almost no fertilizers and sometimes implements innovative ideas such as grafting Chardonnay grapes onto 20-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines Because of his sincere attitude toward the vines “Pruning determines the yield and taste of the grapes in a given year That is why pruning is the most interesting part,” he says with a smile The ideal wine is “a beautiful wine,” one that is so clear that one can clearly imagine the grapes themselves when one takes a sip Ogiwara wants to make wines that will be recognized around the world which is why he believes that “it is necessary to carefully and surely do what needs to be done in the vineyards now I haven’t yet achieved a perfect score of 100 in my mind The challenge is how to bring it closer to 100 points,” he says I just have to make sure that the grapes are well-cultivated so that when the wine is finally made it will not be blamed on the weather or abnormal weather conditions Saito first encountered wine while traveling as a student and when he experienced harvesting grapes in Corsica with a wine producer who owns a vineyard and winery and handles everything from grape cultivation to vinification ‘What a wonderful job it would be to grow plants He felt an intuition that “I want to make wine in Japan Saito thought that in order to make excellent wine in Japan it was important to study in a region that was growing by leaps and bounds California wines represented a new type of winemaking known as the “New World,” and their value was rising rapidly He went abroad to find out why this was possible Ogihara happened to see a blog post about winemaking written by Mr he went to California State University in 2009 where he was enrolled in the oenology department Saito was selected as an assistant winemaker at the university’s winery and returned to Japan in 2013 when the brewery was completed in Shioyama who is also involved in cultivation as a winemaker they arrived at the method of applying an umbrella to each bunch of grapes allowing the Koshu grapes to ripen while still green Saito describes Koshu grapes that have reached a high degree of ripeness but still retain a beautiful emerald green color as “emerald Koshu He says that the grapes are thoroughly quality-conscious which clearly shows in the beautiful color and delicate taste of the wine and seed ripeness of the berries to determine the best time to harvest Observing the color and condition of the seeds is especially important in order to determine the ripeness of the grapes The vinification method is determined based on the quality of the harvested grapes: stainless steel tanks are used if the grapes are not too oaky and barrels are used for grapes with high potential that can be aged for a longer period of time so it is important to think carefully about what you need to do to get the best out of the grapes you harvest Saito is committed to “making effective use of the lees Lees are the sediments of the wine’s components Saito does not remove the lees after fermentation is complete but rather skillfully uses the large amount of lees left in the wine to bring out the flavor of the lees itself He carefully checks how much lees is used to give the wine depth “The ideal wine is one that emphasizes smoothness but also has subtle tastes and something that makes you think a little The “Chardonnay Reserve,” made by carefully selecting only the highest quality fruit is a glossy golden yellow wine with refined acidity and gorgeousness Saito himself is confident that it is of the highest quality “I want to make a sparkling wine that will make the name of Shioyama known all over the world,” but because of his heavy responsibilities as head winemaker he has to be in the vineyard every day to tend to the grapes and check the wines in the winery it is important to build a team as a winery it is also necessary to improve my sensibility through exposure to art,” he says While keeping abreast of the changes of the times he also has to understand what kind of wine he likes and what the world is looking for and “my job is to strike a balance between the two and create the ideal wine just a little bit of wine can bring a moment of joy and healing and Saito describes it as “something that connects people to each other and it has broadened my view of the world,” he said Wine takes me to new worlds I have not seen yet he gives a grim assessment of his own winemaking “I don’t know if I will be able to do the work I want to do during my lifetime I have to do work that I can pass on to the next generation,” he says and strives to nurture the next generation Saito believes that it is too late to start training apprentices after he has made it big as a brewer and that he must grow while at the same time nurturing the next generation I want to improve the fields and make them easier to cultivate so that I can pass them on to my successor,” he smiles “We will set the trend and pass on our skills to the young people in this company new ideas and techniques will emerge that we have never thought of where Ogiwara-san and Saito-san’s strong personalities and talents clash and blend to produce wines full of originality a sommelier who held five Master of Wine titles and was named the best in the world He tasted the Kisvin Pinot Noir and praised it highly The wines of the two winemakers will continue to surprise and inspire the world Basse highly praised their “unique and sensational wines made by a talented winemaker Since the establishment of Furuya Brewery in the Meiji Era (1868-1912) Lumiere Corporation (hereafter Lumiere Winery) has been producing representative Japanese brands with an emphasis on Koshu who has devoted himself to the development of Yamanashi’s wine industry while focusing on the development of Koshu orange wine and sparkling wine unique to Japan The wine industry began in Japan during the turbulent period between the end of the Edo period and the Meiji period (1868-1912) when the port of Yokohama opened in 1859 and many Westerners arrived in Japan giving the Japanese people their first taste of wine The Meiji government positioned winemaking as an important industry In the midst of rapid modernization and a major wine boom Lumiere Winery was founded in 1885 as Furuya Brewery and renamed Koshuen Corporation in 1943 and gained worldwide recognition when it won a gold medal at the Monde Selection International Wine Competition in 1967 and in 1992 The wine brand “Lumiere” became the company name the company received a royal warrant from the Imperial Household Agency and its prestigious winemaking style with its history and traditions has been handed down to the present day Shigeki Kida was appointed president on the occasion of the 120th anniversary of the company’s founding in 2005 and has served as a director of the Yamanashi Wine Brewers Cooperative Association since 2004 and was a judge at the Slovenian International Wine Competition in 2005 The greatest strength of Yamanashi is its Koshu grape when Japan’s first “GI Yamanashi” geographical indication for wine was recognized Koshu wines have gained worldwide recognition and wine lovers from overseas visit Japan in search of Koshu,” he says and has been praised by overseas visitors for its excellent marriage with Japanese food in particular The company produces so much Koshu that it was named “Koshu En” (Koshu Garden) and even now focuses most of its efforts on Koshu wines including “Koshu Surly” with its citrus aroma “Hikari Koshu” with its rich and voluptuous taste from solid oak maturation “Orange Wine” with its rich flavor with fruity aroma and mellow acidity and “Prestige Class Oranger” with its fruity aroma and mellow acidity Prestige Class Oranje,” a rich orange wine with a fruity aroma and mild acidity President Kida praises the high potential of Koshu “This variety is especially suitable for orange wine made from the skin which is aged in bottle for at least one year after secondary fermentation in the bottle Sparkling orange wine made from Koshu is rare “Koshu originally has a citrus aroma but if the grapes are harvested after they are fully ripened on the vine the result is a sparkling wine with a full flavor,” he says the company grows more than 10 other varieties and is actively experimenting with Spanish a rare variety called Mills is said to produce an aromatic wine with a sweet but lychee-like aroma the company has its own 4-hectare vineyard which is similar to natural farming methods they cultivate their grapes without fertilizers as much as possible and they work on recycling-oriented agriculture by composting the grape pomace for a year and returning it to the soil We don’t overdo it or do anything unnecessary,” he says We don’t try to unnecessarily increase the sugar content and we believe that wine made from grapes produced in this natural environment is the best for the Japanese body and diet the young members of the team are at the center of Lumiere’s winemaking process and they all work together to make the wine I think the kindness of the staff is reflected in the taste of the wine which has been weaving its history since the Meiji Era still retains valuable historical legacies used in winemaking The “Ishikura Fermentation Tank,” designated as a Tangible Cultural Property by the Japanese government is a stone fermentation tank built in 1901 taking advantage of the slope of a fan-shaped land it was designated as a cultural asset of the “Landscape of Vineyards – Koto Region Yamanashi Prefecture,” a Japanese Heritage site Muscat Berry A is brewed using this traditional stone fermentation tank and sold as “Ishikura Wadin” The company also holds “Ishikura Wadin Brewing Experience Events,” where visitors can experience everything from grape harvesting to brewing has been in use for many years and is kept at an average temperature of 19 degrees Celsius which is suitable for fermentation regardless of the season making use of the characteristics of geothermal heat the sound of fermentation can be heard constantly from the barrels and one can feel the vitality of the grapes from the sound of their breath who is currently focusing on marketing as vice president of the Yamanashi Wine Brewers Association “There is no doubt that Japanese wine is in the limelight from around the world the association provides solid technical guidance and has raised the overall level of the industry,” he says There are more than 90 wineries in the prefecture that are unique and attractive and one of Yamanashi’s strengths is the ability to mutually share data from research and analysis conducted by major companies in cultivation and winemaking The accumulation of data from various wineries multiplies their experience by many times,” he said The advantage of Yamanashi wineries is that they can share technical information with each other even though they are rivals,” he says there are challenges unique to a major fruit-growing region Koshu is a native Yamanashi grape variety that has existed since the Nara period (710-794) and is said to be resistant to climate change but President Kida fears that Koshu will disappear due to a decrease in the number of farmers “Many grape growers are switching from Koshu to Shine Muscat because of the high selling price and the number of grapes for brewing is decreasing year by year making the shortage of raw materials a problem That is why it is necessary to create a system that allows grape growers to earn a solid income from growing grapes for brewing,” he said enthusiastically “I am always thinking about what the wineries in Yamanashi should be like as a whole Since the latest vinification equipment is now readily available from overseas and wineries in Japan are now at the top level of vinification equipment “Now it is important how to reduce the burden of labor in cultivation and how to increase agricultural productivity,” he said The Yamanashi Wine Brewers Association as a whole is actively engaged in research on varieties and countermeasure technologies based on climate change which will lead to further improvement of Yamanashi wines,” he said enthusiastically “We will create new values such as ‘Sparkling Oranje,’ further improve the quality of our products and actively disseminate information about them We will also make efforts to encourage people to visit wineries in Yamanashi which accounts for more than half of the wineries in Yamanashi Prefecture the challenge is to create a transportation system they are limited and sometimes inconvenient during the tourist season There is an urgent need to improve the infrastructure so that people from Japan and around the world can visit the region who has also served as chairman of Koshu Of Japan (KOJ) a Yamanashi wine export project launched in 2009 with the aim of branding Yamanashi wines and expanding the market for Koshu wines says he will put even more effort into exporting overseas exports to Southeast Asia in particular have been increasing “In countries that use fermented seasonings local cuisine and Japanese wine go well together Lumiere Winery has been producing wines that are highly acclaimed around the world by taking on the challenge of innovative winemaking while inheriting vineyards with a history of more than 130 years and traditional production methods Lumiere” means “light” in French and the future of Japanese wine will shine brighter Wines of Koshu returned to its physical tasting last week after a run of Covid-related hiatuses the event was able to properly showcase its range of styles across the still Famous for its pink bunches on the vine, Koshu is best known for its extremely pale white wines where elegance and texture take precedence over fruit an array of different styles are steadily emerging from the Yamanashi Prefecture versatility is Koshu’s secret weapon Following his masterclass hosting duties at the event he told Harpers the variety is capable of producing “precise legacy wines under the care of Japanese winemakers” Harpers also caught up with Château Mercian one of the region’s leading wine producers along with Lumière Winery and Suntory It’s one of the oldest producers in Yamanashi too the Château is focusing on promoting its four distinct styles of Koshu to markets like the UK – its key global export market people are always surprised by the differences in taste and style due to the different district and production methods,” Kurenai Yasutake “We’re surprised even by what other wineries are able to achieve We’re still trying to discover more about Koshu Château Mercian’s four styles begin with the Château Mercian Yamanashi Koshu citrussy 100% Koshu taken from vines all over Yamanashi the Château Mercian Iwasaki Koshu 2020 from the Iwasaki district This oaked Koshu has four months of ageing resulting in a more tannic and fuller-bodied wine to the first the Château Mercian Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris displaying a pale red-purple colour with a hint of grey Château Mercian's Iwade Koshu Ortum 2021 is a single vineyard wine made using the ‘best of the best’ grapes Despite these stylistic explorations however in many respects Koshu remains shrouded in mystery The received wisdom seems to be that as a Vitis Vinifera variety picking up bits of East Asian DNA along the way (and helping Koshu to fight off rot in Japan’s humid summer months) other theories say the variety came via Korea or monks in China Japanese drinkers are far more likely to know Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc over Koshu “It’s what English wine is to the English It’s still being discovered,” Yasutake says Château Mercian is pushing ahead with exporting its leftfield wines to the UK Around 18,000 bottles of orange wine are produced each year the total Koshu production at the winery is 180,000 bottles – just under half its total production which also includes international varieties Japan will be recognised as one of the world’s foremost wine regions Japanese wine is not yet recognised but in the near future we want Japanese wine to be loved and enjoyed more and more by people all over the world,” Yasutake concludes Koshu of Japan was established in 2009 by leading wine producers from the Yamanashi Prefecture Diversification has since exploded since Koshu was officially recognised by the OIV in 2013 orange and aged wines all now coming to market plus a masterclass hosted by Lynne Sherriff MW and Ronan Rayburn MS in which Koshu was tasted blind with some curve-balls thrown in just to make it extra hard.The Koshu of Japan Annual Tasting is the one tasting on the calendar that is greeted with hushed tones when its date and venue is announced each year Maybe it’s the very polite insistence (but insistence nevertheless) on the invite that it is strictly for the trade and press – no riff raff is the subtext and you get the feeling that when you register and you are told that your request is being considered that somewhere in Koshu Towers someone is rifling through your credit history and employment record and making sure you’ve never been done for shoplifting or fiddling your expenses Then the acceptance arrives and you can relax again and whispering seems to be the preferred method of communication I think the language barrier between many of the producers and the trade in attendance helps to maintain this stillness and level on concentration from all concerned; questions are asked and responded to and there were some very interesting stories on show at this year’s tasting Hosted in the St James’s Room at 67 Pall Mall, there were nine producers in attendance showing 16 Koshus in total, plus a handful of red wines made from international varieties. This year the tasting was as much about showcasing the diversity of the Japanese* grape than it was about showing how brilliantly it can be done, which is testament to the work Koshu of Japan has done over the years in educating the trade about its benchmark style of delicate floral wines made with poise and precision esoteric and out-there – that Steve would rave about and encourage everyone in the company (not least the sales team) to taste and understand It was this producer I made my first visit to at the Koshu tasting so I could re-taste the Grace portfolio and calibrate my palate for what was to come What the tasting – and the day’s masterclass hosted by Lynne Sherriff MW and Ronan Rayburn MS (more on this shortly) – showed is that Koshu is no one-trick pony; it’s as versatile a grape as and can produce wines that mimic in style and character those from more well-known and established regions The masterclass was designed to demonstrate this Following a little bit of history on Japan – its wine-producing heritage and a look at the Koshu grape and how it came to become Japan’s signature varietal – there was an 11-flight blind tasting We were told that not all the wines were Koshu and had to try to work out what was what where two Chardonnay wines were thrown into the mix (one from Japan as well as sparkling and oaked styles of Koshu You’d be forgiven – and some were – for thinking what some of the wines were from Greece or Champagne but that just shows how adaptable Koshu is and how it can gain a reputation for wines separate to its signature Here a few of the more interesting wines from the tasting starting with the benchmark ‘classic’ from Grace There’s a haunting freshness here that hits you first like sea salt spray but finishes on the palate with a smash of lime acidity Some white pepper spice and wet stone adds complexity There’s a pink tinge to this Koshu (which is not seen elsewhere in the room despite the grape variety having a dusky pink colour) with the wine glistening pink when poured but then the colour almost disappearing woody edge that’s probably from the grape tannins It’s fresh with lime and honey and a precise acidity this shines with crisp cider apple acidity before sweet nougat characters drift in It’s more developed than many of the other Koshus A delicate stunner that offers more than just soft fruit Old French oak barrels are used to age 30% of this wine which adds texture and a creaminess that’s not evident elsewhere It’s still the strong acid backbone and green and citrus fruit that punches through though and there’s a delicious apple and lemon finish Taste-wise this is fruity and bright with just a hint of complexity and bready-ness but to get there you have to get through the bubbles There’s a lot of gushing in mouth with lively fizz giving off plenty of CO2 that masks some of the delicate fruit notes Lumiere Winery Koshu Prestige Class Orange so clearly an ‘Orange’ wine in that respect but it’s not colour than defines orange wine This is produced using carbonic maceration and spends some time post-fermentation on the skins It’s chewy and complex with an oxidative edge and a lovely lick of green apple acidity Balanced and very interesting… the kind of thing that get sommeliers all hot under the collar this time seven months in new French oak for 10% of the wine It’s darker than most of the other Koshus on show and has a Chardonnay creaminess to it There’s bold stone fruit with tropical hints and a crispbread note lingering in the shadows *Koshu is probably from Georgia and got to Japan via the Silk Road its full make-up is still being worked out A photograph of Jaluit Atoll was published in Umi no seimeisen : Waga nannyou no sugata The book's publication date is listed as 1935 A Japanese military history buff has found library records showing a photo supposedly depicting Amelia Earhart survived a crash landing in 1937 was actually published two years before the famous aviator vanished The photograph in question was featured in a History Channel special and received widespread media attention Here's how NPR's Laurel Wamsley described the discovery of the image: Treasury agent named Les Kinney found the photo in a box of papers from the Office of Naval Intelligence while scouring for evidence regarding Earhart's disappearance that might have been overlooked The undated photo was in a box marked 'declassified.' Its caption reads 'PL-Marshall Islands some analysts argued that the photo showed Earhart (sitting at the end of the dock facing away from the camera) and her navigator Fred Noonan (on the far left of the image) They identified the ship in the background as the Koshu Maru and argued that the Koshu Maru rescued Earhart and Noonan after they crash-landed in 1937 When the photo was found in the National Archives — without a date — it led some analysts to believe it depicted famed aviator Amelia Earhart and her navigator found evidence the photo predated Earhart's famous disappearance The History Channel is aware of the evidence and says it is investigating In an English-language post the blogger explains that "the photograph was first published in Palau under Japanese rule in 1935 So the photograph was taken at least two years before Amelia Earhart disappear[ed] in 1937 and a person on the photo was not her." The photo book in question was digitized and published online by Japan's National Diet Library The publication date is listed in the traditional Japanese style as "Showa 10" — that is The blogger also identifies the ship in the image as the Koshu The History Channel tells NPR it has "a team of investigators exploring the latest developments about Amelia Earhart and we will be transparent in our findings "Ultimately historical accuracy is most important to us and our viewers," spokeswoman Kirby Dixon said in a statement Become an NPR sponsor that pursuit of excellence,” Sayburn says.The distinctive grape of Japan vinifera plays no ancient role in the country so its origins lie elsewhere; fashionable now as a dry white wine Descended from the grapes carried along the Silk Road a thousand years ago the lovechild of a yet-to-be identified European variety of vitis vinifera and an unknown Asian vitis partner In keeping with Japan’s cherry blossom culture those thick skins helping resist disease in the humid with rainfall averaging between 800 and 1000 millimetres a year the variety is usually planted on a pergola system though vertical shoot positioning has more recently been successfully trialled The majority of Koshu comes from the central wine region of Yamanashi Muscadet or Hunter Valley Semillon (the latter being the closest Koshu offers a quality a little closer to Sake in aromatics Koshu – perfect when paired with Japanese appetisers I visited the country five years ago and the pairings of its food and wine left an indelible impression The fine dining establishments are world renowned but even at the level of cheap and cheerful street food or chain eateries standards are uniformly very high – I shudder to think what a visitor from Japan might make of some of our equivalents As with most varieties closely identified with a specific country or region Koshu comes into its own when paired with its culinary bedfellows delicate fruit and signature savoury streak all play their complementary roles “It is uniquely Japanese, but has only really started to be internationally recognised as an interesting variety in the last ten years or so,” says Koshu of Japan masterclass host very light and I always find this rice water quality elegant and well integrated with the fruit,” says co-host Toru Takamatsu MS Each bunch of Koshu is protected from the elements by a paper umbrella so a focus on quality has resulted in lower yields and better management of the canopy with seemingly no expense or effort spared to the extent that miniature ‘rain coats’ are placed over individual bunches to protect them from the elements “It just strikes me as a very Japanese thing to do,” according to Sayburn “I don’t think you’d find someone doing that in Bordeaux.” “One of the things that strikes you most about Japan is the attention to detail “from the man who has made tempura for 40 years but still feels he needs to perfect it to the people who have dedicated their lives to neatly raking gravel.” The masterclass featured a tasting of seven Koshu wines. Full credit to the team at 67 Pall Mall as these samples bottled under argon gas (seemingly by someone using a pair of Marigolds in a fish tank) yet each wine appeared to be in perfect condition Ronan Sayburn MS in the private members stock room in the basement of 67 Pall Mall with subtle melon and peach skin to follow Grace, Hishiyama Vineyard, Private Reserve Koshu, 2019, with delicate citrus blossom on the nose, there’s zesty grapefruit and fennel, with a slightly smoky, mezcal note and a nutty finish. (RRP £22 – imported by Hallgarten & Novum) with blossom and a rice water note to the nose (RRP £25 – imported by Hallgarten & Novum) an “experimental wine” from Chateau Mercian Manns Wines, Solaris, Yamanashi Koshu Sur Lie, with seven months on its lees, a reductive note to the nose, with lime zest, green apple and panko breadcrumbs, there’s a delicate tannic feel to the texture. Like an elevated Muscadet. (£22 – imported by JFC) Chateau Mercian, Fuefuki, Koshu Gris de Gris 2019, an orange wine, but a subtle one, the grapes spend three weeks on skins in stainless steel, then the wine spends eight months in used oak. With rose petal, ripe apricots, apple compote, textural charm and a smooth, savoury finish, it’s about as close to crowd-pleasing as orange wine gets. (RRP £22 – imported by Boutinot) It’s a pioneering example of the potential of this ethereal variety achieved by adopting vertical shoot positioning (VSP) for smaller berries and higher sugar levels along with judicious touches of neutral oak Sur lie is a more common method for giving this subtle grape some muscle spiced citrus zest and yellow fruits on the finish while Chanmoris Winery’s Hosaka Koshu 2023 brightens the day with abundant aromas of citrus Orange-Gris Koshu 2022 charms with its apricot-tart palate and gentle grip Koshu 2022 has a memorable perfume of jasmine and green citrus – perfect for seafood thanks to its limpid minerality and freshness At a recent tasting in Napa, I was smitten by the Somerston Estate wines turning off the Silverado Trail onto the circuitous CA-128 leads you past Pritchard Hill and to the sprawling vineyards of Somerston Estate nestled in the foothills of the Vaca mountains The wines made by Cody Hurd sing of elegance The Somerston Estate LXXI Sauvignon Blanc 2021 is brilliant Whole-cluster pressing and fermentation for 18 months in new and neutral barrels Notes of smoky grilled lemon and a crisp salinity evocative of seaspray frame citrus cream flavours and mineral complexity The Somerston Estate XCVI Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 is a revelatory rendition of Napa’s iconic variety The red-fruited palate flashes fresh berries that are encased by a savoury edge with mint lending elegance and depth to this well-heeled bottling Classics and elegance still thrive in Napa – you just have to know where to look such as the Otronia Malbec and 45 Rugientes Merlot unfortunately do not yet have distribution in the UK Renowned wine consultant Alberto Antonini – who has worked with, among many others, the Frescobaldis, the Antinoris and the Mondavis – was in town in January to showcase wines from his personal Poggiotondo estate in Tuscany at Liberty Wines’ portfolio tasting met up the day before at Scott’s in Mayfair for a very in-depth discussion of viticulture and winemaking and – of course – a preview of their wines ‘The challenge in making a terroir-driven wine is to understand all the complexities of the environment,’ Antonini explained A believer in the impact of the soil on vine health and wine quality he has worked closely over the years with wine terroir consultant Pedro Parra The salinity and electricity of Poggiotondo’s Vermentino delle Conchiglie (2022 Shelved Wine) worked beautifully with plates of mixed oysters and tempura prawns while Vigna del 1928 Chianti Riserva (2019 Shelved Wine) – a single-vineyard wine using 50% whole-bunch fruit vinified in 16hl concrete ‘tulip’ tanks but sticking to the traditional Chianti ‘recipe’ Trebbiano and Malvasia – had all the texture intensity and fragrance to stand up to duck in a blood orange sauce from several sites in East and West Sussex The winery is next to his new Bee Tree Vineyard Building work was supposed to be finished by July 2023 but work overran and he ended up having to process 146 tonnes of fruit while work was ongoing He’s excited about the quality of the 2023 vintage which he says is greater than the much-exalted 2018 Dermot and his winemaker wife Ana will be offering tours and tastings by appointment by summer 2024 (Look out for our Sussex travel guide in June 2024) Your browser does not support JavaScript, or it is disabled．Please check the site policy for more information a long-time specialty of Yamanashi Prefecture has the rare distinction of containing genetic characteristics typical of red wine grapes Scientists from the University of Yamanashi and Tokyo University of Agriculture carried out the genome analysis of the species indigenous to Japan largely because genomic studies of wine grapes have been conducted widely overseas an assistant professor of genome biology at Tokyo University of Agriculture’s Genome Research Center found the Koshu grape has genetic features that generate a citrus-like aroma and polyphenol a substance found in large amounts in red wine grapes That indicates the Koshu grape is closer to a red wine grape than a white one a biological assistant professor at the Institute of Enology and Viticulture of the University of Yamanashi then compared the genetic data of the grape with 130 kinds of red and white grapes from Europe and elsewhere Koshu does not belong to any species currently cultured in Europe or the United States and no similar grape variants have been discovered in the world Koshu grape wine is known by some experts in Yamanashi Prefecture for its astringency and it could be used to improve wine quality and promote sales overseas “Taking advantage of the genetic information will help increase the efficiency of breeding for further quality improvement,” Enoki said such as raising the aroma and sugar level and adjusting the strength of astringency.” The grayish pink grape has been used to make white wine in Yamanashi Prefecture since the Meiji Era (1868-1912) It was registered as a wine grape by the Paris-based International Organization of Vine and Wine in 2010 Of the 3,416 tons of Koshu grapes produced in Japan in fiscal 2018 Typical beverages from Koshu wine grapes are slightly tart with flavors of citrus fruits and pears the National Research Institute of Brewing in Hiroshima Prefecture found through a DNA analysis that Koshu emerged through the crossbreeding of a European wine grape and a wild variant native to East Asia chairman of the Yamanashi Prefecture Wine Manufacturers’ Association and general manager of beverage maker Mercian Corp. said he had heard from a senior official that the Koshu species “may revert to a red wine grape.” “I can now understand the reason for that,” Anzo said Koshu wine has recently been commended in international competitions “I want to strongly emphasize the individuality and uniqueness of Koshu wine,” Anzo said one local theory posits that Gyoki (668-749) a Buddhist priest in the Nara Period (710-784) and founded Daizenji temple in what is now Koshu’s Katsunumacho district to form a grape farm Another theory is that a resident of present-day Katsunumacho identified a different grape species from the wild crimson glory vine and planted it at home during the latter half of the Heian Period (794-1185) The researchers’ findings were published in the international science journal Frontiers in Plant Science in early November Craft beer using rose yeast now brewing in city in Hiroshima Bottle of sake made from finest rice auctioned for 840,000 yen Young offenders trained to make wine to help them find work Floral sake fermented with wisteria yeast on sale in Niigata Spirits aged under the sea surface with mellow taste Information on the latest cherry blossom conditions Please right click to use your browser’s translation function.) A series based on diplomatic documents declassified by Japan’s Foreign Ministry Here is a collection of first-hand accounts by “hibakusha” atomic bomb survivors chefs and others involved in the field of food introduce their special recipes intertwined with their paths in life A series about Japanese-Americans and their memories of World War II In-house News and Messages Copyright © The Asahi Shimbun Company. All rights reserved. No reproduction or republication without written permission. The February tasting is the most comprehensive tasting for this variety and region in the UK Nine leading winemakers (from a region that is home to 80 wineries in total) will be showcasing both their Koshu and international varieties – showing the diversity that this region produces and introducing the new 2019 vintage to the UK We will have an expert-led masterclass running on the day hosted by wine writers Anthony Rose and Neil Beckett This will explore both single vineyard Koshu and premium wines from the region made from international grape varieties with the chance to taste 13 different wines as an introduction to the region You have been running events in the UK for some years now what changes have you noticed amongst UK buyers about their perception and knowledge of Koshu wines Koshu grapes are grown in what can be the harsh weather conditions in the foothills of Mount Fuji this is actually the 10th year for Koshu of Japan (KOJ) promoting in the UK holding our annual trade tasting and food matching events in restaurants since we started in 2010 We are seeing a lot more awareness and interest in Japanese produce overall in the UK with the continued success of Japanese food chains on the high street and the real media interest in Japanese culture the interest and knowledge of Koshu has similarly been increasing year on year we have had several top restaurants interested in listing Koshu wines for their tasting menus and wine lists and so awareness is growing We are pleased with the steady growth that Koshu wines have seen in the market and this year we are expanding the campaign to reach consumers directly as well, working with Vagabond wine bars to offer a barrel-top tasting and an evening tasting event in February The wines will also be available in the signature enomatic machines at the Canary Wharf and Paddington branches throughout February Vagabond is getting behind Koshu with a series of tastings at some of its London outlets Why do you think Koshu wines are suitable for the UK market The UK is always the most important market for Koshu of Japan because it has a strong influence in the world markets the UK market has long been more amenable to trying wines from around the world as historically we haven’t had an indigenous industry to fill our glasses This open-mindedness has translated through the years into a more adventurous wine-buying market with buyers and importers who can be persuaded to try something new Wines from Japan certainly tick all the right boxes for wine drinkers looking for a new experience UK consumers are also creatures of habit and like to have some familiarity with what they are drinking Koshu wines don’t disappoint in this respect either international varieties and an approachable that suits the UK profile for the Koshu varietal wines fresher style not only pairs well with a variety of cuisines (especially seafood) but also fits in perfectly with the general shift in tastes and lifestyles in the UK as people seek out lighter drinks the restaurant scene in the UK is fantastically varied as Koshu wines are such excellent partners to food this has only helped encourage sales and consumers’ discovery of Koshu What advice would you give to buyers and restaurants about listing Koshu wines for their customers but don’t expect your customer to be at first Offer Koshu by the glass to get people accustomed to the style and grow interest from there Suggesting food pairings is an excellent way to get customers to push the boat out and opt for a wine that they might not usually consider Can you give us some good food pairings for Koshu While Koshu has a natural affinity with seafood and Asian dishes, it is a light, food-friendly wine that can be paired with a large number of dishes and cuisines. It’s currently featured on the wine flight for Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons At the tasting on February 5 at 67 Pall Mall (10am – 4.30pm) there will be the chance to sample wines from our nine producers alongside a selection of seafood canapés smoked haddock croquettes and Yellowfin tuna tartare Adventurous sommeliers and wine buyers across the premium on-trade are constantly on the look out to try new grape varieties and styles of wine particularly at the more rarefied ends of it such a constantly exhilarating and dynamic career to be in But for all the desire and ambition to find something new how often do we genuinely come across a new grape variety or wine region with the quality of wine good enough to sell and make some money out of can we introduce you to Koshu wine – arguably Japan’s best kept (drinking) secret anyone who can honestly say they could pass with flying colours a short examination on everything to do with Koshu wines Masters of Wine and Master Sommeliers amongst them A fair proportion had not had the chance to taste enough to give an opinion That should perhaps not come as a big surprise for Koshu of Japan and the nine Koshu producers it helps promote is still very much at the beginning of its export story Not that Koshu itself is at the beginning of its own life Its origins date back at least 1,000 years in the unforgiving Katsunuma region in Yamanashi in the foothills of Mount Fuji As a result it is one of the world’s hardiest grape varieties and is particularly resistant to disease and capable of growing in the harshest of conditions who has helped advise a number of Japanese wine producers on their export strategies and is an advisor JFOODO (Japan Food Product Overseas Promotion Centre) Abbott gives her take: “Koshu has fresh but rounded acidity and several aromatic compounds in common with Sauvignon Blanc The most familiar Koshu style is an ultra-delicate Laura Blanchett, head sommelier and wine buyer at Roka the award winning Japanese restaurant group says the different production methods used to make Koshu wines means there are “many different expressions of the grape” “But they are always made with a great deal of care and diligence deployed to ensure excellent quality,” she explains “Dry styles of Koshu produced in stainless steel are a great introduction to this exciting category citrus notes are balanced with a beautiful says “Koshu is often referred to as the ‘Zen’ white wine of the world “It is a term that Jancis Robinson MW has often used,” she says were more appreciated that those that were more delicate have more mouth-palate feel and accompany many more dishes.” Koshu is not just the perfect partner to Japanese food like here at Roka Koshu wines were given a major boost when Hallgarten Druitt and Novum Wines, one of the country’s biggest national distributors, took on Koshu wines from Grace Wine. Head buyer Steve Daniel explains why: “I believe in Koshu wines We were one of the first major importers of Koshu We chose Grace as we believe it is the best producer I believe the wines have become more complex and interesting in recent vintages Ayana Misawa is doing a great job as winemaker.” Blanchett is certainly a fan: “Grace Koshu ‘Kayagatake’ is a favourite in the category of the wines we list Particularly for the purity and elegance of the style along with the fact that it falls at only 11.5% abv perfectly placing this wine for the current lower alcohol movement.” of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn has become a big fan of Koshu wines but not just because of their suitability for Japanese cuisine He explains: “We have stocked Koshu wines for four years at least and I love its distinctive style.For us it is not about Japan or Japanese food but about purity and it was at a period when I was fighting hard to excel the virtues of clean focused wines with perfect mineralogy He adds: “This is a wine that is perfect for today’s modern diner: fresh but it could be a Premier Cru Chablis style.” Blanchett agrees that the quality of Koshu wines can be a surprise to some guests: “Due to the very limited production within Japan and But at a recent pairing event we were fortunate to open some excellent bottles which left guests drawing comparisons to some of Europe’s grande marques.” Blanchett believes umami rich dishes like Italian food would be ideal with Koshu wines She also believes they are so well suited to cuisines that really play on the essence of umami She explains: “These wines are very versatile with vibrant natural acidity the slightly oaked styles also stand up beautifully to spice I would be confident to suggest these wines with the umami rich cuisines of Italy Sherriff adds: “We have certainly seen them work with Thai food and with Chinese food where there is not too much MSG to be found with some light Japanese citrus is awesome.” But for Abbott there is still plenty of potential still to build on the surge in interest in quality Japanese restaurants She explains: A small selection of Japanese wine has been offered for several years in the UK’s top Japanese restaurants the new trend of ‘Anglo-Japanese’ cooking has been called “London’s new favourite” and there is huge interest in Japanese cuisine All aspects of Japanese culture are intriguing to sophisticated young consumers from the refined aesthetics of the tea ceremony Sarah Abbott MW believes there is great potential for Koshu alongside other Japanese wines “This is reflected in the blossoming of high end fusion restaurants and bars that blend premium Japanese ingredients and techniques with a contemporary the Japanese section of the drinks list at these buzzing bars and restaurants is dominated by spirits and sake But there is huge potential to showcase Japanese wine in these influential and exciting venues.” What’s particularly encouraging for Jones is to see the improvements in Koshu wines over recent years You either take it seriously or you don’t at all.” The Guardian’s wine critic Fiona Beckett agrees that the quality of Koshu wine is very much there “On the whole they are to a very high standard,” she told The Buyer Encouragingly for UK buyers they also have the qualities she feels would work well here particularly in seafood restaurants.“Crisp Sheriff says the development in Koshu wines “have come about through improved vineyard practices controlled battonage and more controlled oaking Peter McCombie advises sommeliers to tread carefully and ensure their dishes can work with the delicate balance of Koshu wines Restaurant consultant Peter McCombie MW also likes the fact the wines “are fresh and quite delicate,” but concedes they could be “too delicate for some” It’s why he would not automatically recommend them as a straightforward pairing with all Asian cuisine “I think the spicing and direct flavours of some Asian cuisines can mask the delicacies of Koshu certainly believes there is a future for Koshu wines in the UK clearly in the growing number of premium Japanese restaurants “I have tasted a lot of Koshu in different styles and will find their best place in Japanese restaurants,” he says Hallgarten’s Steve Daniel says he “believes” in Koshu wines sommeliers and consultants we spoke to had some clear advice on how they feel Koshu of Japan can help spread more awareness about the wines is quite clear: “It has to be by the glass.” McCombie agrees: “They need to be poured in the on-trade Their subtlety needs to be explained to consumers in advance.” Blanchett at Roka believes it is important to spread their wings from outside Japanese restaurants: “I would love to see more availability and support alongside different cuisines along with a greater market presence from more producers – Within the Roka Group we will continue to support Koshu with masterclasses and pairing dinners.” Daniel believes “dry Koshu still wines are best suited to the UK market” “Particularly those at Reserve and vineyard specific level But unfortunately the UK is very competitive and therefore only Koshu offering good value will work.” Sherriff agrees it is “bone-dry” styles that “seem to work best for the UK” along with the sparkling wines made in the traditional method.” The Guardian’s wine critic Fiona Beckett believes Koshu of Japan should push Koshu with sushi The premium on-trade is vital to the future of Koshu wines “We need to have these wines exposed to more sommeliers and top-end consumers and have them matched with food and wine we paired baby pork with four to six month battonaged Koshu and it was delicious Fish such as eel and mackerel are also a superb combination Fiona Beckett believes Koshu of Japan should simplify that food message andbe “constantly reinforcing the message it is the wine to drink with sushi” For Abbott it is essential Koshu of Japan continues to invest in educating the UK trade “Providing opportunities to taste the wines is key to developing the profile of Japanese wines here in the UK This market is always thirsty for new knowledge and keen to discover different wines from all over the world.” Daniels agrees: “I would recommend more trips for key journalists and opinion formers to Japan to understand the wines They are meticulously made and hand crafted wines that deserve to be taken seriously.” the popularity of Japan’s cuisine has been increasing as top Japanese eateries can be found all over the world But one style of food seems to attract the most devotion: sushi While sushi is probably Japan’s most famous dish it’s also the one that causes most confusion as the term ‘sushi’ encompasses a wide variety of ingredients All sushi dishes use rice seasoned with vinegar as their base An array of ingredients – from raw fish (sashimi) to aged fish a small brick of rice topped with raw fish; to maki where rice is laid on sheets of dried seaweed (nori) with toppings then rolled and cut into bite-sized morsels Traditional seasonings are also served alongside sushi including savoury soy sauce and fiery wasabi (Japanese horseradish) accompanied by palate cleansing gari (pickled ginger) With such a wide variety of tastes and textures each offering something different for sushi,’ says Peter McCombie MW ‘There are sparkling styles; crisp Koshus aged in stainless steel; full-bodied wines aged in oak; creamy styles with lees contact; and textured skin-contact orange wines,’ explains McCombie But interestingly that’s not the case,’ says McCombie as wines with high acid can make fish taste metallic Koshu also has a relatively low iron content meaning that when it’s paired with raw fish Decanter joined McCombie at one of the UK’s top sushi restaurants: Yashin Ocean House Head sommelier Raku Oda and executive chef Shinya Ikeda prepared a special menu to showcase the food-friendliness of Koshu with sushi (see below) ‘I have been selling Koshu by the glass at Yashin Ocean House for seven years,’ says Oda ‘I tell my customers that it’s unique and because we’re a Japanese restaurant Now people will always ask for it when they come in.’ ‘Koshu works very well in terms of food pairing,’ adds Ikeda ‘Lighter styles are good with delicate white fish For example orange Koshus complement the richness of eel.’ Char-grilled eel made a harmonious match with Lumiere ‘The savoury profiles in the wine and sushi match each other,’ explains Oda Sol Lucet Koshu 2017 complemented a selection of white fish nigiri ‘This is one of my favourite matches,’ says Ikeda ‘The concept of this dish is lightness and the Koshu has gentle acidity and delicate flavours that match perfectly.’ Koshu Lees Contact 2017 made a good partner to shellfish nigiri ‘The salinity and minerality of the wine gives a fresh lift after every bite with the sweetness of the scallop in particular bringing up the citrus notes in the Koshu,’ comments McCombie A platter of aged fish nigiri – a speciality of Yashin Ocean House – matched with the crisp Grace Koshu Private Reserve 2017 ‘I sell this by the glass – and it out-sells all of the other wines on my list,’ says Oda ‘It’s a fresh and approchable style of Koshu that everyone will enjoy.’ For McCombie the tasting highlighted the fundamental way that Koshu and sushi work together ‘There’s a precision about both the wines and the food; a thoughtfulness and attention to detail,’ he says For more information contact JFOODO (The Japan Food Product Overseas Promotion Center). Visit: wine-jfoodo.jetro.go.jp/uk or email: jfb@jetro.go.jp First course: uni (sea urchin) and aged squid Fourth course: shellfish nigiri – smoked oyster Thanks to Yashin Ocean House for hosting our pairing session. www.yashinocean.com Some of these wines are available in the U.K. and U.S., while others will arrive next year. You can order now from Dekanta, a Japanese online retailer. If they don't list it, they may be able to source it for you. 2016Yellowtail Crudo with Citrus and AvocadoPeden & MunkIf you finish every dish or red pepper flakes for flare—it's time you met yuzu kosho The Japanese paste easily made from combining yuzu and salt drops a flavor bomb on everything it touches and desserts go from zero to hero with teaspoon-size dollops of the stuff It's the closest thing you'll get to a silver bullet condiment that'll instantly impart depth to your dish Chefs know it—they've been using it at their restaurants for years—and it's time you did Yuzu kosho is a pasty Japanese condiment made from fresh chiles (most often green or red Thai or bird's eye chiles) then fermented with salt along with zest and juice from yuzu a tart and fragrant citrus fruit that grows in East Asia and salt come together in a powerful and distinctive flavor that enlivens a dish—anything from sashimi to braised short ribs and cookies—instantly When Johanna Ware, chef of Smallwares in Portland she'll drop a tiny bit into miso soup to add acid and spice Seared Scallops with Avocado, Yuzu Kosho, and Daikon from Ignacio Mattos at Estela in New York Yuzu kosho is at its best when it's cutting through the richness and fat of meat. It's why Sarah Pliner at Aviary in Portland made a mock kimchi with yuzu kosho to balance out braised short rib Now she brushes in in a steamed bun filled with eggplant and sweet bean paste; it's the contrast of the tangy-spice that brings out the sweetness of what's inside the vegetarian bun Smillie goes through up to 20 pounds of yuzu kosho a week for the decadent duck wings he glazes in smoky bacon fat which chef-owner Tim Cushman serves with a yuzu kosho-dashi aioli unctuous flavors of a Kinoko Nabe on the menu—a vegetarian mushroom soup with toasted yuzu kosho and a Japanese tempura (tentsuyu) broth the fried broccoli is served with a thin layer of yuzu kosho curd at the bottom of the dish But the final frontier for the spicy-salty condiment is in desserts; Frederico Ribeiro of Té Company in New York knows it Inspired by a spicy-sweet pineapple-chile mixture from Heston Blumenthal and a pineapple-lime zest dessert at Per Se (where he used to work) Ribeiro adjusted the sweetness of pineapple-hazelnut linzer tarts with the salty-acidic yuzu kosho and lime zest A sublime spin on a Taiwanese pineapple cake with surprising depth Think of the citrus-y possibilities Many chefs actually purchase their yuzu kosho pre-made so that they can get the full nostril-clearing fragrance of yuzu without having to live in California (one of the only places in the US with actual yuzu trees) How else would Smillie get 20 pounds of the stuff each week and prefer the green yuzu kosho to the red if you insist on making yuzu kosho yourself it can be pretty hard to come by fresh yuzu (or not pay an arm and a leg for it) experimentation is your friend and you can still get the flavor profile you're looking for by following the general citrus + chile + salt formula Cushman suggests listing out all the possible citrus and all the possible chiles Ridings has experimented with serranos and jalapeños instead of the harder-to-find Thai chiles Smillie has hacked yuzu kosho with limes and chile oil and has swapped out his usual citrus for blood orange and bergamot Once you find your ideal combination of citrus (zest throw it all in a blender or a small food processor to make it a smooth paste Ridings recommends trying this: Mince "the hell out of" a combination of lemon The lemon and lime together sort of mimic the singular flavor of yuzu This fish really wants some yuzu kosho. Photo: Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott Rub it on a seared or grilled piece of meat while it's resting, or add it to a marinade the way Ridings does: Incorporate yuzu kosho into a mixture of beer, honey, and ginger to marinate hanger steaks. Morocco, Baraghani, and Leone were practically salivating thinking about it as finishing seasoning for fish; as a last-minute addition to a hearty braise; or as a counterbalance to fish tacos. Sundstrom vouches for making a yuzu kosho dressing. Dilute it with water (it can be very salty otherwise), a splash of vinegar, oil, and a splash of lemon or lime juice and dress a roasted fish or (use really sparingly on) a salad. And Smillie doubles down on the meat, mixing it into pork terrine, rubbing it on grilled pork chops, incorporating it into fresh sausage, and marinating chicken breasts in it. Smillie also says he'd put it on pretty much anything. And that's exactly why we love it. The rain stopped as our high-speed train from Tokyo entered into Yamanashi Prefecture’s Kofu Basin where we were greeted by the soft-spoken Mr Shigekazu Misawa the fourth-generation proprietor of Grace Wine He personally drove us on a quiet Sunday morning up the winding hills to his family vineyards 700 metres above sea level Mount Fuji remained hidden behind the clouds Yet the towering mountains surrounding us rose high all around us the Akeno site is said to enjoy the longest sunshine hours in Japan At a Buddhist temple on a wooded hillside in Japan grapes and wine bottles are given as offerings and the head monk is also the honorary president of a vineyard cooperative but it has been nicknamed the “grape temple” because of its deep-rooted links to the history of grape production in the country and more recently as Japan’s top winemaking destination That’s unique in Japan,” head monk Tesshu Inoue said as he recounted the mythic origins of his temple a famous Japanese Buddhist monk and traveler called Gyoki is said to have met the Buddha of medicine in a dream at the spot where the temple stands today Nyorai held a bunch of grapes — inspiring Gyoki to found Daizenji and establish the local vineyard culture teaching Yamanashi residents how to make wine for medicinal purposes A different legend claims farmer Kageyu Amemiya was the first to begin the cultivation of grapes in Japan DNA analysis has found that koshu — the oldest grape variety grown in the mountainous region — is a hybrid of a vine species originally cultivated in Europe and a wild Chinese vine That suggests it could have traveled the Silk Road on its way to Japan the same way Buddhism established itself in Asia The Web site for Yamanashi’s “koshu valley,” supported by the local chamber of commerce suggests seeds or vines from China might have been planted in the grounds of temples and rediscovered by chance much later it was only in the Meiji era from 1868 to 1912 — a period that saw an explosion in interest in the Western world — that wine production started in Japan With its fertile soil and long history of grape growing Yamanashi was the obvious choice for the first vineyards Daizenji is surrounded by grapes growing on pergola structures while a small shrine conceals an antique cherrywood statue of Yakushi Nyorai with his famous bunch of grapes is a precious artifact belonging to the temple and is only shown in public every five years and bottles of wine bearing the temple’s name it’s a good deed,” Inoue said with a smile please click the box below to let us know you're not a robot Get the most important global markets news at your fingertips with a Bloomberg.com subscription Yamanashi Prefecture--This central Japan prefecture is now firmly established on the world map of wine making after two products won the second-best Platinum medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards Koshu-based Shirayuri Winery Co.’s L’Orient Katsunuma Koshu 2019 and Lumiere Hikari Barrel Fermented Koshu 2018 were made solely from locally grown Koshu grapes Both white wines were selected for the prize from about 18,000 entries from 56 countries this year is said to be the world’s most prestigious wine competition Platinum wines are selected from Gold medal winners that require at least 95 points out of 100 are the only Japanese wine producers to have previously won the Platinum medal L’Orient Katsunuma Koshu was brewed together with grape lees to bring out a citrusy aroma and savory grape flavor “The fact that our typical wine was praised overseas means all Koshu wines were acknowledged,” Shirayuri Winery President Takao Uchida said at a July 9 news conference Lumiere grew grapes with minimum use of pesticides in its vineyards and brewed and fermented them in barrels to achieve a strong aroma and rich flavor “We have shown the true worth and potential of wineries in Yamanashi Prefecture,” Shigeki Kida adding that he hopes the award will lead to increased export of Koshu wines to Europe and Asia Genome studies show why Koshu white wine can taste like a red Sake fermented with lactic acid bacteria takes French prize ‘Sour Grapes’ wine fraud con man deported to Indonesia VOX POPULI: Pandemic brings out value of ‘mujin’ spirit of mutual support VOX POPULI: Edo Period epidemiologist’s wisdom still rings true today No reproduction or republication without written permission.