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The multigenerational shop Kaneshichi Shoten uses traditional techniques to make umami flakes
The latest episode of Vendors: International explores the meticulous process of making bonito flakes at renowned shop Kaneshichi Shoten in Makurazaki
bonito flakes are made from smoked and fermented tuna and give dashi broth its signature umami flavor
are a seasoning ingredient made by boiling
This method has existed in Japan for centuries
and has been passed down for generations at the 60-year-old Kaneshichi Shoten
which provides the ingredients to restaurants like Adi in Tokyo and the Nobu pop-up in Kyoto
“These traditional techniques that we’ve inherited from the past
perhaps it’s too much to say I want to preserve them
but that’s how I feel,” says Yusuke Sezaki
“Makurazaki produces half of all the katsuobushi made in Japan.”
The process starts at a bonito auction where 30 different companies bid on the best fish
the fish is simmered at high temperatures to stop the decay of inosinic acid
lifting and strengthening the umami flavor
craftspeople remove the bones by hand to prevent the shape from warping and they add fish paste to fill the gaps where the bones were removed
it might seem like meaningless work,” Sezaki says
this little task was proof that it was done by an amazing craftsman.”
the fish is brought to a three-story smoke room where
rising smoke removes moisture from the fish and imbues a unique flavor profile
the fish is left out in the sun to dry for a week
developing a green mold that Sezaki says is “best to be powdery
not sticky.” Next up is the fermentation room
where oil from the fish is broken down and the umami flavor continues to heighten
“Being able to grow in a relaxed and comfortable state might have an impact on the quality of katsuobushi,” Sezaki says
“This is where the bonito grow to their fullest.”
These bonito flakes end up in dishes like green curry with golden eye snapper from chef Kanchan Adhikari of Adi
Adhikari steeps the bonito flakes to make a dashi broth and adds that to spinach
cilantro and combines that with traditional Nepalese spices like white coriander and cumin
“You have to really understand your ingredients and the best way is to build a close relationship with your suppliers,” Adhikari says
Seeing how hard everyone worked made me want to be more thoughtful about how I use katsuobushi.”
Watch the newest episode of Vendors: International to watch how bonito flakes go from the fish auction to high-end dishes.
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Forecast shows over 23 inches of rain set to lash Japan
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Japan is on high alert as powerful Typhoon Shanshan edges closer, with high waves and wind prompting flight cancellations
The storm is expected to hit southern Kyushu on Thursday
with winds reaching up to 155mph (250kph) at its centre
On Wednesday, the storm was 70km south-southwest of Yakushima Island, moving slowly northward off the country’s southwest coast, bringing extreme winds and heavy rain
The Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA) has issued emergency warnings for storms and high waves in Kagoshima Prefecture
as the typhoon threatens flooding and landslides
The agency has issued a rain forecast of up to 23.6in (600mm) over the next 24 hours
No damage or injuries have been reported so far but two people were rescued in Aichi Prefecture in central Japan on Wednesday morning after a landslide struck their home, the public broadcaster NHK reported. Two other residents have also been rescued.
As the typhoon approached, dozens of domestic flights were cancelled.
Japan Airlines announced the cancellation of some Wednesday flights scheduled to arrive or depart from airports in central Japan, including Osaka Kansai Airport, one of the country’s largest.
All Nippon Airways, Japan's largest airline, said that the storm is expected to impact flights at Osaka airport.
Japan’s high-speed rail network, the Shinkansen, began canceling some services on Tuesday, with further cancellations anticipated on Wednesday and Thursday, according to its operators.
Japan Railway has announced that most bullet trains and local services on Kyushu will be suspended. Similar steps may be taken on the main island of Honshu until Sunday.
Postal and delivery services in the region have been halted, and many stores are planning to close early.
The JMA has warned that the risk of disaster could increase suddenly as the storm progresses.
Officials urged residents, especially older adults, to take shelter immediately if they feel unsafe.
“To protect your life and the lives of your loved ones, please flee to evacuation areas specified by local authorities and secure your safety,” said Satoshi Sugimoto, an official at the weather agency, speaking at a news conference on Wednesday afternoon.
A Level 5 emergency warning – the highest and rarely issued – has been declared for Mishima village in Kagoshima Prefecture, which has 369 residents across 202 households. The alert refers to an imminent life-threatening situation and urges residents to take immediate protective actions, even if safe evacuation is no longer possible.
Level 4 evacuation orders have also been issued in parts of Kagoshima, Miyazaki, Aichi, and Shizuoka. This includes 27 cities in Kagoshima Prefecture and the entire city of Miyazaki, which has a population of over 400,000.
The government has also cancelled its annual earthquake drills to ensure disaster response resources are available for the typhoon.
Localized heavy rain is also impacting other regions of Japan, including the Tokai region, where rain is intensifying as warm, moist air flows in.
The city of Shinshiro in Aichi Prefecture has already recorded about 12in (304.5mm) of rain in 48 hours, the highest for August since record-keeping began in 2003.
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Metrics details
The “Dual Structure” model on the formation of the modern Japanese population assumes that the indigenous hunter-gathering population (symbolized as Jomon people) admixed with rice-farming population (symbolized as Yayoi people) who migrated from the Asian continent after the Yayoi period started
The Jomon component remained high both in Ainu and Okinawa people who mainly reside in northern and southern Japan
while the Yayoi component is higher in the mainland Japanese (Yamato people)
The model has been well supported by genetic data
but the Yamato population was mostly represented by people from Tokyo area
We generated new genome-wide SNP data using Japonica Array for 45 individuals in Izumo City of Shimane Prefecture and for 72 individuals in Makurazaki City of Kagoshima Prefecture in Southern Kyushu
and compared these data with those of other human populations in East Asia
and Tohoku populations are slightly differentiated from Kanto (including Tokyo)
These results suggest the substructure within Mainland Japanese maybe caused by multiple migration events from the Asian continent following the Jomon period
and we propose a modified version of “Dual Structure” model called the “Inner-Dual Structure” model
Geographical map of Yaponesia. The different regions are color-coded and numbered to correspond to Fig. 3
Re-drawing of the dual structure model from Hanihara [5]
some regions in Japan are under-represented in population genetics studies
We therefore generated new genome-wide SNP data from people in Izumo
and together with data from other parts of Japan
we tested whether the “Dual Structure” model still applies to these populations
A total of 90 and 72 individuals from Izumo City of Shimane Prefecture and Makurazaki City of Kagoshima Prefecture, respectively (see Fig. 1)
We later collected saliva samples at the Archeological Museum of Kojindani
only 51 DNA samples from Izumo contained enough good-quality DNA for genotyping
Six individuals from Izumo and eight from Makurazaki with up to 3rd degree relations (kinship coefficient more than 0.06) were omitted from further analysis
45 and 64 genome-wide SNP data for Izumo and Makurazaki
The genotyping data obtained by SNP array was downloaded from Japanese genotype-phenotype archive on the approval of NBDC Data Access Committee (JGA Accession ID: JGAD000123)
The genotype data were converted into VCF format
After excluding duplicate samples and those with cryptic relatedness by KING
the principal component analysis (PCA) was performed using PLINK1.9 to remove outlier samples
The number of BBJ samples remaining after this step was 169,169
To reduce computation times for subsequent analyzes
we decided to further trim down the BBJ dataset
the mean values of the top 10 principal component values were calculated for each region
and the deviation of the principal component values from the mean were assessed for each sample by Euclidean distance
The top 1000 samples with the smallest Euclidean distances were selected from each region and used for subsequent analyses
Principal component analysis (PCA) plots of individuals from various regions in Japan corresponding to Fig. 1 map
Non-Japanese individuals are indicated by gray dots
Two major clusters were observed in the BioBank Japan Kyushu cohort
Admixture analysis for k (number of ancestral components) = 9
only 100 randomly selected individuals from each region of the BioBank Japan dataset are included in this figure
Neighbor-Net network from pairwise Fst distances between populations
A Network when all populations were included; B Network after Ainu was omitted; C Magnified view of reticulations involving Yamato people
Makurazaki) test showing Makurazaki having more gene flow with Okinawa and Kyushu-A than with other Yamato
past capitals of Japan and thus has a history of human migration from the Asian continent
Representation of “Inner-Dual Structure” model
The “Inner-Dual Structure” model might explain why people in the Central Axis region appear closely related in the PCA and network analyzes
whereas people from the Periphery such as Makurazaki
or Tohoku were less genetically influenced by the more recent migrations
However it is still not clear when those new and old migrants came to Yaponesia
these results appear to support the “Inner-Dual Structure” model
however other explanations such as very recent migrations might contribute to the observed patterns
The addition of samples from under-represented regions in Japan together with whole genome sequence data is needed to properly decipher the genetic make-up of Yaponesians
Origin of Japanese based on nuclear DNA data analyses (in Japanese)
die Aino und andere kaukasier-ahnliche Reste in Ostasien (in German)
Dual structure model for the population history of the Japanese
Prehistoric Japan: new perspectives on insular east asia
Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press; 1996
Umetsu K.Japanese Archipelago Human Population Genetics Consortium et al
The history of human populations in the Japanese Archipelago inferred from genome-wide SNP data with a special reference to the Ainu and the Ryukyuan populations
based on snp genotypes from 7003 individuals compared to other ethnic groups: effects on population-based association studies
The fine-scale genetic structure and evolution of the Japanese population
Detection of ancestry informative HLA alleles confirms the admixed origins of Japanese population
Implications of HLA diversity among regions for bone marrow donor searches in Japan
Language diversity of the Japanese Archipelago and its relationship with human DNA diversity
Japonica array: improved genotype imputation by designing a population-specific SNP array with 1070 Japanese individuals
Robust relationship inference in genome-wide association studies
Genome-wide association study identifies 112 new loci for body mass index in the Japanese population
Overview of the BioBank Japan Project: study design and profile
Korean Genome Project: 1094 Korean personal genomes with clinical information
The international Genome sample resource (IGSR): a worldwide collection of genome variation incorporating the 1000 Genomes Project data
Freed D, Aldana R, Weber J, Edwards J. The Sentieon Genomics Tools—A fast and accurate solution to variant calling from next-generation sequence data. bioRxiv; 2017. https://doi.org/10.1101/115717
Second-generation PLINK: rising to the challenge of larger and richer datasets
Fast model-based estimation of ancestry in unrelated individuals
Inference of population splits and mixtures from genome-wide allele frequency data
The neighbor-joining method: a new method for reconstructing phylogenetic trees
Neighbor-net: an agglomerative method for the construction of phylogenetic networks
The fine-scale genetic structure of the British population
Watanabe Y, Isshiki M, Ohashi J. Prefecture level population structure of the Japanese based on SNP genotypes of 11,069 individuals. J Hum Genet. 2020. https://doi.org/10.1038/s10038-020-00847-0.
Deep whole-genome sequencing reveals recent selection signatures linked to evolution and disease risk of Japanese
The distribution of the ABO blood groups in Japan
The distribution of several serological and biochemical traits in east Asia
The distribution of genetic markers in blood samples from Okinawa
Download references
The authors would like to thank the following people and organizations: the people in Izumo and Makurazaki cities who kindly donated their DNA to this study; Mr
Yoshinori Okagaki and Tokyo Izumo Furusato Kai
Daisetsu Fujioka and Izumo City Kojindani Museum
Makurazaki City Medical Doctors Association
This study was supported by SOKENDAI Cooperative Research grant on modern human evolution
MEXT Grant-in-aid for Scientific Research on Innovative Areas “Yaponesian Genome” (grant number 18H05505)
cooperative research of the Inter-University Research Institutions (grant number I-URIC18P01)
and a cooperative research with Genesis Healthcare
These authors contributed equally: Timothy Jinam
Graduate University for Advanced Studies (SOKENDAI)
National Center for Global Health and Medicine
Department of Computational Biology and Medical Sciences
Laboratory for Statistical and Translational Genetics
RIKEN Center for Integrative Medical Sciences
The authors declare that they have no conflict of interest
Publisher’s note Springer Nature remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/s10038-020-00898-3
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Recent research has shown that the increasing severity of recent typhoons is not just a coincidence.A team from Imperial College London in the UK analyzed Typhoon Shanshan
and issued a warning based on their findings.As long as humans continue to drive global warming
typhoons will keep getting more intense.They say that the likelihood of super typhoons like Typhoon Shanshan occurring may have increased by more than 20 percent due to climate change
cars continuously arrived at the waste disposal site following the disaster caused by Typhoon Shanshan
A resident spoke to the camera that "the roof was about half torn off by the typhoon
and had brought disaster debris several times."
the strongest maximum wind speed of 51.5 meters per second was recorded during this typhoon. According to the research team in the UK
the maximum wind speed of typhoons may have increased by 7.5 percent due to global warming.
In a press conference held at the Japan Meteorological Agency
chair of the Abnormal Weather Analysis Review Committee
said that it is reasonable to consider this year’s heat as part of abnormal weather. This year’s summer temperatures in Japan were 1.76 degrees Celsius higher than the average
making it the hottest summer in over 120 years. Maeda Shuhei
Head of the Climate Information Division of the Japan Meteorological Agency’s Atmospheric and Oceanic Department revealed that there is a possibility that precipitation during heavy rain events has increased due to the effects of global warming
precipitation on the Pacific side of Eastern Japan was the highest recorded since statistics began.An expert knowledgeable about typhoons point out the following regarding their relationship with global warming
Professor of University of Tokyo mentioned that "The sea surface temperatures around Japan have remained very high
and Typhoon Shanshan passed through such areas
Regions where sea surface temperatures exceed 30 degrees Celsius have extended as far as Japan’s coast
This is a recent trend and is believed to be influenced by global warming"
he warns that when people think "oh we were fine with previous ones" that would be wrong from now on. "When refered to “previously,” we were comparing to 10 or 20 years ago
but recent typhoons show that such assumptions no longer hold true
It’s important to prepare and consider evacuation before a typhoon arrives"
so he encourages people to use hazard maps and evacuate early. The research team in the UK recently issued a warning to Japan.It said the people of Japan are paying the price for climate change.A climate change expert points out that the effects of global warming extend beyond typhoons
What are the harmful effects of global warming
Professor at Institute for Future Initiative
University of Tokyo mentioned that "Even typhoons of similar strength can bring more rainfall if there is more water vapor
This is evident in phenomena like the torrential rainstorms we experienced this summer
often referred to as 'guerrilla rainstorms'.'Additionally
is expanding northward due to global warming
Is there anything we can do to help stop global warming?The United Nations has outlined 10 actions.For individuals
they suggest measures such as reducing electricity use at home
and choosing environmentally friendly products when shopping
University of Tokyo emphasized that It’s important to raise a voice
or even just liking posts from people who are speaking out can make a difference
I believe it is crucial to express your views in some form".
About Nippon Television
Japan's weather agency issued a rare special typhoon warning Wednesday for most parts of Kagoshima Prefecture in the country's southwest as powerful Typhoon Shanshan
which has already caused several injuries in affected areas
The Japan Meteorological Agency said the storm is heading in a northerly direction south of the prefecture's Yakushima Island
off the southwestern main island of Kyushu
maintaining its strength and possibly making landfall in Kyushu on Thursday
suspended its 14 plants nationwide late Wednesday
and railway operators announced the cancellation of some services
a total of nine people had sustained injuries due to the typhoon
according to the prefectural governments of Kagoshima and neighboring Miyazaki
JR West said operations of its Sanyo Shinkansen bullet train between Hiroshima and Hakata will be suspended after Thursday afternoon
while JR Kyushu said it will cancel all of its local train and bullet train services by the afternoon of the same day
bullet train services on the Tokaido Shinkansen line between Shizuoka and Kakegawa were suspended
adding that a rain gauge installed in central Japan had reached the regulatory threshold
Some flights were also canceled on Wednesday with the typhoon nearing
mostly those serving airports in Miyazaki and Kagoshima prefectures
Residents have been warned to prepare for strong winds as well as high tides and waves
with the weather agency urging people to be ready to evacuate before conditions worsen
The agency said the typhoon could pack winds capable of destroying some houses
The Kagoshima prefectural government said it opened 478 evacuation centers in 28 municipalities as of 3 p.m
As much as 600 millimeters of rain over 24 hours has been forecast in some areas
The storm's sluggish pace could increase the danger posed as areas may be struck for a prolonged period by strong winds and heavy rains
said it will suspend operations at its two factories in the western prefectures of Hiroshima and Yamaguchi from Thursday night through late afternoon the following day
Special typhoon warnings are declared in cases of extraordinarily powerful storm systems
The same warning was issued for Kagoshima Prefecture in 2022 as Typhoon Nanmadol approached
which was at that time a first for any area other than Okinawa
could also be released for both Kagoshima and Miyazaki prefectures
the typhoon was moving northward at 10 kilometers per hour and was located about 40 km northwest of Yakushima Island
It had an atmospheric pressure of 935 hectopascals at its center
Transport disrupted as typhoon expected to hit western Japan
Strong typhoon heading toward southwestern Japan
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it is for a very different reason that its name is familiar in Japan
It is in this small town in Brittany that the Japanese Makurazaki factory
named after the city of the same name south of Kyushu
set up a branch to produce dried bonito or katsuobushi
and one of the primary ingredients in traditional Japanese cuisine
when the space opened following almost two years of work
during which the organisation of the factory was carefully considered and the product tested countless times
‘It was the result of a real team effort’
‘Two craftsmen specialised in cutting and smoking-drying and another in woodchip smoking came until summer 2018 to train workers in production for 2-3 weeks every month and a half
The real challenge was to create katsuobushi according to Japanese standards
while adapting it to a modern context’
the French Makurazaki factory employed six people and mainly produced arabushi katsuobushi: unfermented tuna fillets with a fermented surface following smoking and drying
horse mackerel (ajibushi) and mackerel (sababushi)
There is also a shipping line in Concarneau
fishing for skipjack tuna in the Indian Ocean according to very strict specifications
is then chartered to the Breton port before being cut into fillets and cooked
‘Most of the operations such as cutting
Next come the stages of smoking with wood chips and drying
however; the Japanese manufacturing secrets are closely guarded
All that remains to do is mature and package the dried fish shavings
The fish then makes its way into the hands of the greatest Breton and Parisian chefs, like Julien Lemarié, head of the Michelin starred restaurant Ima in Rennes
‘We use it mainly to make our dashis (broth
We cannot quite replicate the taste as it is in Japan
especially because the bonito is not fermented
It therefore has a hint of Breton identity that we appreciate’
says the chef who spent five years in Japan and who is always seeking to add a little foreign twist to his local cuisine
‘It is important for us to work with local people
particularly to our feedback to improve the quality of their product again and again’
who currently serves bonito as an infusion with kombu and galanga
One of the greatest achievements for Gwenaël Perhirin and his team is the fact that Makurazaki supplies Eiryo Kudo
who served his katsuobushi when the new Japanese emperor was visiting the city
‘It seems that he enjoyed his meal’
A twinning project between Makurazaki and Concarneau is also planned
Gwenael Perhirin and the Makurazaki factory team surely never dreamt of such success
Sustainable Farming and Flavorful Harvests on Awaji Island
Celebrating Nature Through Cuisine in ‘Wild Herbs’
Immersing in Japanese Cuisine Across the Seasons with Mirukashi Salon
Traditional tattoos were strong signifiers; murderers had head tattoos
The series 'Hysteric Ten' by photographer Sawatari Hajime revisits one of the most sulphurous relationships in Japanese art
Nagisa Oshima made Sada Abe the heroine of his film
defying the codes of 'pinku eiga' that make men the focus of attention
This rice soup seasoned with miso is served by a monk to Ashitaka
one of the heroes in Hayao Miyazaki's film
we interviewed its founder and chief representative
Saitou Group / Population Genetics Laboratory
Genome-wide SNP data of Izumo and Makurazaki populations support inner-dual structure model for origin of Yamato people
Journal of Human Genetics 2021 January 25. DOI:10.1038/s10038-020-00898-3
Press release (In Japanese only)
dozens injured and flights grounded as typhoon makes landfall in Makurazaki
Typhoon Vongfong barreled into Japan on Monday morning
with at least one person missing and dozens injured while more than 300 flights were grounded
Winds of up to 112 miles (180 km) per hour whipped ashore as the typhoon made landfall in Makurazaki on Kyushu island at around 8.30 am (2330 GMT)
The typhoon is forecast to churn north-east through the Japanese archipelago at a speed of 30 kilometres per hour
adding that it may reach the Kanto region – which includes Tokyo – late on Monday or early Tuesday
Television footage showed the roof and walls of a house ripped off by gusts in Makurazaki
while huge waves were smashing into breakwaters
“We are calling on our residents to remain on alert as we are still within the storm zone,” said Naoki Jomori
an official of Makurazaki’s anti-disaster office
NHK said at least 45 people had been injured in typhoon-related accidents so far
a figure which included the 23 injured as the monster storm pounded the southern Okinawa islands over the weekend
Local authorities issued evacuation advisories to more than 440,000 residents mainly in southwestern Japan
three Chinese people were swept away by high waves triggered by the typhoon on Sunday afternoon as they were fishing on the coast
“Two of them were rescued safely but the remaining one aged 26 is still missing,” the police spokesman said
high waves and heavy rains could hit a large swathe of the archipelago
where a relatively wet summer brought numerous landslides
including in Hiroshima where more than 70 people died
stranding thousands of people travelling around the country at the end of a three-day national holiday celebrating health and sports
Japanese airlines cancelled at least 372 flights
while West Japan Railway said it planned to suspend all local services in the Kansai region
The typhoon came just a week after another strong tropical cyclone whipped through the country
the search was suspended for the bodies of at least seven hikers believed to be lying on the still-smouldering Mount Ontake
The volcano was packed with walkers when it burst angrily to life on September 27
with many there to witness the spectacular colours of the countryside at the arrival of autumn
The eruption was Japan’s deadliest in almost 90 years and nearly 1,000 troops
firefighters and police have participated in a search made treacherous by the gases still rising from the peak
as well as a knee-deep layer of sticky ash
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「核廃絶は使命。このままでは死ねない」。その決意を胸に、広島で被爆した金本弘さん(80)=名古屋市=が4月30日、米ニューヨークの国連本部に集った各国の外交官..
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1966年、19歳で中学を卒業した川下ヒロエさん(79)=広島市東区=はこの年、被爆者健康手帳を取得した。当時住んでいたのは北九州市。母兼子さん(2014年に..
国際社会は危機感を持ち、歯止めの議論に入るべきだ。スウェーデンのストックホルム国際平和研究所(SIPRI)が、2024年の世界の軍事費支出を発表した。2兆71..
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全ての命を守るため―をテーマに掲げていた。ローマ教皇フランシスコによる6年前の来日である。被爆地広島、長崎のほか、地震・津波・原発事故という三重の災害に見舞わ..
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中国軍管区司令部で被爆した八木さんの革脚絆=1973年、八木実さん寄贈(撮影・山田尚弘)
Makurazaki has a very high level of seismic activity
Based on data from the past 55 years and our earthquake archive back to 1900
there are about 875 quakes on average per year in or near Makurazaki
Makurazaki has had at least 2 quakes above magnitude 7 since 1900
which suggests that larger earthquakes of this size occur infrequently
probably on average approximately every 60 to 65 years
The quake had a very shallow depth of 7.1 km (4.4 mi) and was too small to be felt by people
Makurazaki was shaken by 1 quake of magnitude 4.4
There were also 43 quakes below magnitude 2.0 which people don't normally feel
The quake had a shallow depth of 60 km (37 mi) and was not felt (or at least not reported so).