Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker Share your travel photos with us by hashtagging your images with #visitjapanjp Yakushima is the stuff of Japanese legends This little island is the country's first UNESCO World Heritage site the inspiration for Studio Ghibli's film "Princess Mononoke" and home to some of the best natural wonders in Japan Just 60 kilometers off the tip of Kagoshima Yakushima can be accessed by plane or ferry From Tokyo, take a plane from Haneda Airport to Kagoshima Airport a connecting flight to Yakushima is only 40 minutes Another option is to take a ferry from Kagoshima Port to Yakushima Miyanoura or Anobo Port The ferry ride takes two and a half hours on the speed ferry or four hours on the regular Not as easily accessible as other parts of Japan Yakushima has remained relatively untouched the island was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site Its pristine coastline and crystal-clear waters attract tourists from across Japan and yet its remote location means that the island never feels too touristy Yakushima was Japan's first-ever inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage list, alongside Shirakami Sanchi in Tohoku About 90 percent of the island is mountainous and forested is the highest mountain in Kyushu at 1,936 meters Miyanoura is situated in the middle of the island surrounded by many other mountains exceeding 1,500 meters From the island's sandy beaches to the upper reaches of its highest mountains Yakushima is home to a range of microclimates that vary from subtropical to subarctic This variation has resulted in the presence of extraordinary biodiversity With its abundance of rainfall throughout the year the island is covered with lush green forests which are home to many yakusugi trees (ancient cedar trees) Noteworthy attractions include the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine is filled with beautiful valleys and primeval forests while Yakusugi Land is home to a collection of enormous yakusugi trees And Nagata Inaka Beach is Japan's largest sea turtle nesting site In the middle of the island, only accessible by hiking four to five hours one way is the Jomon Sugi The Jomon Sugi is said to be around 7,000 years old The enormous tree derives its name from the Jomon Period of Japanese pre-history and its discovery in 1966 raised awareness of the need to protect valuable forest resources high elevations and abundance of rainfall mean that Yakushima has many waterfalls 88-meter waterfall that is one of the highlights of Yakushima and was selected as one of Japan's best waterfalls in 1990 and Janokuchi Falls are some of the island's other popular and accessible waterfalls The Yakushima Goshinzan Festival is held on the Miyanoura River and is a unique event with links to the cult of the mountain god Those gathered at the site are sprinkled with sacred water to pray for good health and family safety A bonfire is then built to welcome the mountain deities and a magnificent Yakushima taiko drum is dedicated to the deities Yakushima has one major ring road that goes the entire way around the island but due to the remote nature of many of the island's attractions private transport is recommended to get around quickly There are rental agencies near Miyanoura Port Yakushima produces much of its own food and has several specialties which is a delicious lunch or dinner treat Many shops sell bento lunch boxes wrapped in environmentally friendly bamboo leaves The most famous brand is called Mitake and comes in 25 percent and 39 percent varieties * The information on this page may be subject to change due to COVID-19 Browse the JNTO site in one of multiple languages about 135 kilometers south of the city of Kagoshima Hayashi Fumiko writes that it rains “35 days a month” on the island A two-hour trip by high-speed ferry from Kagoshima Port brought me to the port of Miyanoura all the taxis waiting at the taxi stand disappeared but they said I would incur a ¥5,000 pickup fee I found a rental bike shop twenty minutes’ walk from the port Clouds over Miyanoura Yakushima is almost entirely covered by mountains with a road circling the island on the edges of the steep terrain The mountains are all connected and center around Mount Miyanoura which at 1,936 meters is Kyushu’s highest peak This spectacular range of connected peaks is sometimes called “the alps of the ocean,” and is registered as part of a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site It also seems that the island scenery inspired the setting of the Studio Ghibli movie Princess Mononoke When I stopped by the Yakushima Environmental and Cultural Village Center near Miyanoura Port to gather local information “Since this is my first time visiting Yakushima The local had to think about that for a moment “I think you should visit Shiratani Unsuikyō gorge.” “There’s some looovely natural scenery The Jōmon Sugi cedar tree and Taiko Iwa rock are famous so you should take the one that looks easiest for you.” I checked Google maps and Shiratani Unsuikyō not only looked relatively close meaning something like “white valley cloud water gorge,” certainly hinted at beautiful scenery But as I drove my moped on that straight shot to Shiratani Unsuikyō like I was headed into the really deep mountains I could feel the gentle misty drizzle that had been over the port became full-on raindrops up in the mountains There was no place to take shelter from the rain along this mountain road There were sections of roadwork here and there The road to Shiratani Unsuikyō a river rushed through peaceful green surroundings over the rocks I had just rode a moped up 650 meters of mountainside Mountain grandeur (© Li Kotomi) I parked my moped and headed toward the gorge hiking trails “You going to hike the mountain?” asked a middle-aged staff member sitting inside the office near the entrance “This is the trailhead,” he said “You’re not really dressed for hiking.” The staff member took out a map of the area and explained it to me and the trail immediately went up a steep slope The area that supposedly served as a model for Princess Mononoke and the Jōmon Sugi tree was all the way up at 1,300 meters I had somehow gotten the idea that these were gentle walking trails This was no place for a city-dwelling weakling like me I had no choice but to give up on going in The idea that I had ridden 40 minutes on that rough mountain road to spend only ten minutes at my goal filled me with a sense of emptiness A view of Shiratani Unsuikyō available near the road it took only half the upward time to get back down I decided to take the coastal road counterclockwise around the island I had lost a lot of time on my fruitless climb to and descent from Shiratani Unsuikyō I had gotten to Yakushima before 10:00 in the morning but the last ferry back to Kagoshima Port left only six hours after that It was already 1:00 in the afternoon by the time I got back near sea level Considering the return trip and time to hand in my rental I figured I’d have to head back to port an hour early I had just about two hours to circle the island I decided to get a view of the sea from Issō lighthouse but it ended up being farther than it looked on the map the road was bumpy and ridden with potholes but then I realized that from there it would be another walk of 10 minutes or more Making that round trip would leave me with essentially no time at all I had no choice but to give up on the lighthouse This is one of the few sandy beaches on the island and along with the others is a designated Ramsar wetland site This white sand beach of weathered granite about a kilometer long is apparently a breeding ground for sea turtles the sky above the island was still shrouded in dark clouds and I felt like I was walking alone on a deserted island A deserted view of the Nagata Inakahama beach After a short stroll and a look at the scenery I headed back the way I came and got to the city streets of Miyanoura in around 40 minutes Waiting at a stoplight near the rental shop I was enjoying the sense of relief that I would make my ferry I turned around to see what was going on and saw a car behind me with the driver bowing apologetically through the windshield Only then did I realize he had run into me Which meant he was 100% at fault for the accident the car been going slowly so the moped was only slightly scratched got out of his car and apologized profusely Are you hurt?” he asked with genuine concern but I took a picture of his license plate just in case so we were able to take care of things smoothly Since I was purely the victim in the accident someone from the shop gave me a ride to the port I tried not to imagine what might have happened if the car had been going faster and the accident worse I got on the ferry and left Yakushima behind me It was clear that a day trip was far too rushed to really enjoy the island so I resolved to spend at least the night on my next visit I turned back to the island and saw a golden sunset shining beyond a thick layer of clouds One final bright view of Yakushima Japan is exceptional even among island nations for its large number of islands emeritus professor at Kagoshima University about the characteristics of Japan’s islands No article or any part there of may be reproduced without the express permission of the Cabinet Office. Copyright inquiries should be made through this form Yakushima feels as if it's suspended in time eternally shrouded in mist and covered with craggy sparsely populated island that inspired Miyazaki's Princess Mononoke is just a short ferry ride from the southern tip of Kyushu for those seeking a far-removed adventure and is estimated to be one of the oldest trees in the world Its rotting core makes it difficult to pin down an exact age but this tree is estimated to be anywhere between 2,170 and 7,200 years old this tree has been around for quite some time the ancient cedar is only reachable via the Arakawa or Kusugawa hiking trails travelers are rewarded with a close-up look at one of Yakushima's most highly prized natural treasures - www.japan-guide.com As the wettest place in Japan (the entire island is powered by hydroelectricity) Yakushima has some truly impressive waterfalls A short drive south of Anbo Port will take you to Senpiro-no-Taki (pictured) a monster of a waterfall that has carved out a valley from the granite cliffs The viewing area is easily accessible from the road for those who are hiking-averse Head a bit further west and you'll reach Ohko-no-Taki The fall is well signposted from the main highway and the viewing point is close enough to enjoy the water's spray on a hot and humid day - www.yesyakushima.com Its name may make it sound like a tourist trap but Yakusugi Land is more than a quick stop to pick up postcards and souvenirs About a half-hour drive from the small town of Anbo Yakusugi Land is a nature park that offers trails for hikers of all levels but venture deep enough and you'll find some trails that require a bit of scrambling to navigate it's much less crowded than Shiratani Unsuikyo (see below) For spectacular views of the entire island (if the clouds feel like playing nice) moderate to advanced hikers can try the hike up to the top of Mount Tachu (1,497 m/4,911 ft) with the striking granite monolith of Tenchu Rock at its summit Try using the provided chains to climb its 40-meter (131-ft) face if you're feeling particularly daring - www.goyakushimatour.com This mixed-gender hot spring bath is set right into the ocean and can only be accessed at low tide A sign is posted near the baths listing the times when the tide is out Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen is a 30-minute drive south of Anbo We recommend visiting at night when you can gaze up at the band of the Milky Way and endless shooting stars—isolated Yakushima's night sky is free of light pollution and it's a spectacular sight - www.secret-japan.com Hayao Miyazaki drew inspiration for Princess Mononoke from the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine with its dramatic waterfalls and towering cedar trees that visitors can literally stroll through The park's one-hour trail through its famous scenery is an easy walk although the gorge tends to be crowded with tourists Wander onto paths lesser traveled to find hidden waterfalls and quiet groves The main one-hour hike eventually joins up with the Anbo Trail headed toward Jomon Sugi if you're looking for an extended trek to the ancient cedar - www.japan-guide.com Source: All About JapanSource article written by Jessica Famularo the broadcast schedule to *Twin Star Exorcists* has been confirmed The anime will broadcast on TV Tokyo beginning this April The latest information has been revealed for the new spring 2016 TV anime *Endride* New information has been revealed for the anime project *Hai-Furi* which began last summer If you loved the scenery in Chihiro’s train journey in Spirited Away you’ll love this unique location just one hour away from Tokyo Look out for your first newsletter in your inbox soon We help you navigate a myriad of possibilities Sign up for our newsletter for the best of the city By entering your email address you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy and consent to receive emails from Time Out about news, events, offers and partner promotions. Tokyo where to stay and what to doHow to have the best art experience on Naoshima Dotted along the Seto Inland Sea off the southern coast of Kagawa prefecture is a series of islands that comprise one of Japan’s largest – and more successful – art initiatives Established roughly 30 years ago as a scheme to boost tourism in the region the project spans several islands including Teshima each houses a series of site-specific art installations and galleries where the first permanent artwork of the project was installed in 1989.  RECOMMENDED: Check out our ultimate guide to the Setouchi area Photo: Rayints/ShutterstockMiyanoura Port is one of two entry points in Naoshima but there’s more to see here than the polka-dotted ferry that sails between the islands On top of the bright red Yayoi Kusama pumpkin that greets visitors as they arrive on the island the port is also home to Sou Fujimoto's 'Naoshima Pavilion' this steel mesh sculpture is one that people can clamber into and appreciate from the inside The sculpture is especially beautiful at night when it is lit up to accentuate its framework A three-minute walk from Fujimoto’s sculpture is a public bathhouse called I Love Yu (yu means hot water in Japanese) While public baths are a common feature in any part of Japan this one is a little different from your average sento The whole building is an exhibit by artist Shinro Ohtake who also created mosaic murals for the sento interior He even planted an elephant statue on top of the wall dividing the men’s and women’s baths you can’t take photos during bath operation hours (1pm-9pm you can come by before lunch to take snaps of the whimsical interior (viewing fee ¥660) Photo: Emma SteenBuilt in 2004, the Chichu Art Museum is an architectural marvel designed by Tadao Ando where the structure itself is every bit as breathtaking as the art it houses this concrete sanctum boasts geometric slats and open ceilings that take advantage of the natural light meaning most of the exhibition spaces are illuminated with just skylight making them unbelievably atmospheric.  The museum is full of large-scale installations with their own dedicated gallery including Maria’s ‘Time/Timeless/No Time’ – a room featuring a giant marble sphere on a set of stone steps – and James Turrell’s ‘Open Field’ which visitors must take their shoes off to enter but the Claude Monet room – designed specifically to showcase the Impressionist master’s ‘Water Lilies’ paintings – is easily one of the most fascinating exhibition spaces in Japan Photo: Avim Wu/ShutterstockOpened in 1992, the Benesse House Museum was the very first structure to be built on Naoshima as part of the art island initiative Designed to be a hotel as well as a museum this cardinal facility is based on the concept of the coexistence of nature Walking through the museum’s concrete corridors (yes it was designed by Tadao Ando) you might spot some weeds growing from the wall crevices But even these tiny green shoots are an art installation of their own The vegetation is actually a series of wood carvings by artist Yoshihiro Suda which comprise the 2002 site-specific installation ‘Weeds’ Each of the museum’s guest rooms feature unique pieces of art but most notable installations are scattered about the property with both permanent pieces as well as rotational works belonging to Benesse’s extensive private collection.  Visitors who aren’t staying overnight can purchase admission tickets online for ¥1,300 (free for children age 15 or younger) which grants access to the museum's indoor and outdoor installations as well as the Benesse House Park Highlights include Teresita Fernández's 'Blind Blue Landscape' (2009) and Yoshihiro Suda's 'Weeds' (2002).   Photo: Yayoi Kusama, Narcissus Garden, Stainless steel spheres, 1966/2022, Copyright of Yayoi KusamaIn March 2022, Naoshima Island welcomed the addition of a new gallery, Valley Gallery designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando This gallery marks Ando’s ninth architectural contribution to the island positioning itself between the Lee Ufan Museum and the Benesse House Museum Maintaining the signature aesthetic of Ando’s portfolio a design choice allowing natural light to flood the interior spaces The gallery houses Yayoi Kusama's iconic 'Narcissus Garden' installation, which has been a permanent feature of Benesse House since 2006 but was recently expanded to occupy spaces both inside and outside of Valley Gallery.  Photo: Hiroshi Sugimoto 'Mondrian' (2014) © Sugimoto StudioThe Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery on Naoshima is a special place that links the island with another significant location Sugimoto has been involved in Naoshima for a long time and this connection inspired him to create another masterpiece this gallery on Naoshima lets visitors see a wide range of Sugimoto’s famous photos designed to make visitors think about time This idea comes from both the gallery's architect and Sugimoto’s long interest in time and his connection with Naoshima Note the the tearoom requires an advanced online reservation and a fee of ¥1,500 per person which covers the cost of the tea and sweets Photo: Emma SteenA highlight of Naoshima is the Art House Project which saw the renovation of seven former residences into immersive contemporary art galleries expect to spend a full day touring and cycling between the seven locations: Kadoya The buildings range from a former dentist’s office to a Japanese tea house and have been transformed into one-of-a-kind The artists who contributed to the project include Hiroshi Sugimoto who each have separate installations on other parts of the island is the most prominent accommodation on the island there are more than a handful of options for every type of trip and budget The former is a family-run bed and breakfast crossed with a café where guests start their day with homemade french toast and freshly brewed speciality coffee The latter is a stylish chalet-like apartment hotel which has electric bicycles reserved for guests to borrow for free – essential for getting around the winding hilly roads that stretch between the island's attractions.  Looking to splurge? Naoshima Ryokan Rokasumi combines time-honoured Japanese ryokan experience with modern luxury complete with private onsen and a restaurant dishing up kaiseki courses for lunch and dinner.  Photo: Akio Miki JP/ShutterstockGetting to Naoshima is a little more elaborate than hopping on a bullet train from Tokyo Station, but the journey is part of the adventure. The quickest route is to first catch a flight to Takamatsu city on Shikoku Island. Then, take a bus to the Takamatsu Port and board a Shikoku Kisen ferry directly to Naoshima This entire journey takes just under three hours (not including transit and waiting time) you can get a seat on the Tokaido-Sanyo shinkansen bound for Hakata and change to the local Uno Line at Okayama Station where you can catch a 20-minute ferry ride to Naoshima This entire trip takes just over four hours (not including transit and waiting time).   There are only a handful of boats shuttling between the islands on a daily basis, so keep an eye on the ferry timetable for your trip. Photo: Wai Chung/DreamstimeDiscover the best of Japan's Inland Sea region with our seven custom itineraries Photo: Kaedeenari/DreamstimeTravel off the beaten track to these storybook villages, Edo-era towns with geisha (not Kyoto!) and seaside retreats Photo: Yoshi Sorafune/Photo ACStep away from the concrete jungle this summer to see these exotic islands that are still part of Tokyo Thanks for subscribing! Look out for your first newsletter in your inbox soon! facebooktwitterpinterestinstagramAbout us Today's print edition Home Delivery Flying fish and dolphins accompany us to Yakushima skipping at the bows of our ferry in synchrony before disappearing into the ship's wake our journey from mainland Kagoshima has been plain sailing and the clouds that hung oppressively over the bay that morning have receded northward over mainland Japan we move our breakfast party out on deck where the five of us sit hunched over bowls of udon — bought from the ferry's restaurant — slurping the noodles and relying on the wind to cool the scalding soup.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1499653692894-0'); }); and ahead of us the north shore of Yakushima looms a facade of mountains that grows from the sea climbing almost vertically to peaks nearly 2,000 meters tall What scant trace of human life that exists on the island is collected in the port town of Miyanoura a speck of activity dominated entirely by its forested backdrop In a time of both misinformation and too much information quality journalism is more crucial than ever.By subscribing Your subscription plan doesn't allow commenting. To learn more see our FAQ Sponsored contents planned and edited by JT Media Enterprise Division Yakushima also provided the inspiration for Studio Ghibli’s anime hit Princess Mononoke Now foreign visitors are uncovering this island delight sub-tropical waters 37 miles south of Kyushu the towering mountains and ancient forests of Yakushima make it a secluded and largely unspoilt paradise which feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of Japan’s megacities Designated a Unesco world heritage site in 1993 the island has long been revered by the Japanese as one of the country’s natural wonders but it is only in recent years that foreign visitors have started to discover Yakushima’s secrets The extremely wet climate means crystal-clear rivers tumble down from the high peaks which carve their way through the granite bedrock dense foliage provides the perfect home for the Yakushima macaque and the Yaku deer both of which are smaller than their mainland counterparts but less timid so can easily be spotted foraging near roadsides and along hiking trails A still from the Studio Ghibli production Princess Mononoke (AKA Mononoke-Hime) Photograph: Rex/ShutterstockIn the summer months endangered loggerhead turtles make their nests on Yakushima’s beaches while tropical fish and corals can be found in the shallow and warm coastal waters Geothermal hot springs (onsen) are everywhere and some of the island’s best are right on the beach The two main points of entry are the tiny port towns of Miyanoura and Anbo Be sure to bring plenty of cash from the mainland as ATMs are almost non-existent and few places accept cards although the western stretch is too narrow and remote for the (limited) bus service so a rental car is the best way to get around A Yakushima macaque. Photograph: Aflo/CorbisOutdoor activities are high on the agenda for most visitors to Yakushima, and the steep mountains and pristine forests attract hikers from all over Japan, with trails to suit all abilities. Yakusugi Land ticket £4) is home to many impressive old cedars and has a number of easy hikes (ranging from 30 minutes to three hours) which afford close-up views of these relics Further north, Shiratani Unsuikyo (35 minutes from Miyanoura by bus ticket £3) is a world of mossy-green woods and babbling streams that inspired Miyazaki’s animated masterpiece The well-marked paths lead to a number of ancient this area marks the beginning (or end) of a gruelling three-day traverse across the island’s interior such as Wilson’s Stump (the hollow remains of a long-felled giant cedar) and the oddly-shaped granite outcrops that characterise the high mountain tops but you need to bring your own sleeping bag and cooking equipment as accommodation is extremely basic (and cold at night) Trunk call … the famous felled cedar of Wilson’s Stump. Photograph: Takashi Yagihashi/amanaimages/CorbisFor those who love soaking in hot springs, the unique Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen on the south coast is a must It’s right on the rocky shoreline and so can only be accessed twice a day strip down (a small towel can be used to protect your modesty) and be sure to follow local etiquette by rinsing yourself before entering the pools which has a bamboo divider to separate the sexes and There are exceptionally good snorkelling and sea-kayaking spots all around the island waterfalls are ubiquitous and the most spectacular is the west coast’s 88m-high Ooko-no-taki Guesthouse YakushimaThe newly-opened Guesthouse Yakushima (from £16pp for a dorm bed) is in a secluded spot on the south coast close to the impressive Senpiro Waterfall and Toroki Falls (the only waterfall in Japan that flows directly into the sea) done in western and Japanese-tatami styles and the friendly owner speaks good English Cottage Morinokokage (from £27pp) is conveniently near Anbo port and has helpful English-speaking owners pine-scented self-catering cottages offer splendid mountain views Request the belly-filling barbecue set (for an extra £16) to grill meat and vegetables under the twinkling lights of your veranda Soyotei (from £76pp) is a beautiful traditional family-run guesthouse on the less-visited north-west coast close to one of the best beaches on the island which is a prime turtle-nesting site Enjoy freshly caught seafood and local produce tatami rooms with ocean views and relax in the adjoining hot spring English is limited but the owners are attentive and the price includes an evening meal and breakfast Cottage MorinokokageJR Hotel Yakushima (doubles from £210) is the high-end option Perched above the sea on the southern coast the sunset views from the hotel’s outdoor bath great food and polite service are all exemplary There is no shortage of good food on Yakushima but as with many out-of-the-way places in Japan Seafood is the staple cuisine and is as fresh as it comes locally sourced deer is the main meat option in any season surely the most rustic branch of this Japanese burger chain in the country keep your eyes peeled for small roadside stalls selling bags of ponkan and tankan sweet and juicy varieties of oranges grown all over the island be sure to try the potent yet delicate local Mitake shochu The port of Anbo Photograph: AlamyFor visitors fresh off the ferry +81 997 42 2721) is a popular seafood restaurant just a short walk down the main street from Miyanoura port The seasonal mackerel sashimi is a Yakushima speciality and the fried flying fish (tobiuo) is another local favourite Lunchtime sets are reasonably priced and typically offer a choice of sashimi or fried fish in a light tempura batter both served with a small salad and miso soup +81 997 46 3439) is a lively establishment most well-known for its platters of deer meat and vegetables which guests cook over a smoky grill in the centre of the table stretch your legs out on the tatami mats (no chairs here) and wash everything down with a cold beer or refreshing chuhai (a carbonated alcoholic drink) family-run restaurant that offers satisfyingly large seafood sets at very reasonable prices The Toppy hydrofoil takes about two hours from Kagoshima to Anbo (£48 one-way) and the slower Yaku 2 ferry goes to Miyanoura once a day (£27 one-way). JAL flies to the Japan mainland from various UK airports It also operates flights to Yakushima from Kagoshima when I was living in northern Nagano Prefecture and hiking the mountains with members of the local Hunters Association I was always making a lot of fuss about the depredation of ancient forests being instigated by the Forestry Agency — a branch of the national government that had an independent budget and financed itself from the sale of timber and although about 67 percent of Japan is covered with trees I began to speak out publicly about the destruction of ancient forests and the consequent loss of biodiversity and increased risk of flash floods and landslides.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1499653692894-0'); }); I would also point out the growing problem of bears raiding fields and orchards because the agency was felling ancient woodlands with well over 100 species of trees that were rich in natural food for the bears — then replanting them exclusively with fast-growing but nutritionally useless native Cryptomeria japonica conifers also known as Cupressus japonica — known as sugi in Japanese and Japanese cedars or Japanese red cedars in English in order to facilitate the rape of old forests roads were being constructed to allow the passage of heavy machinery and trucks that could haul out the timber quite illegally — but with no control — by truckers taking loads of industrial and medical waste to dump in ravines and thinly cover with soil carried out in watershed areas prone to rapid soil erosion and the risk of toxins getting into drinking water sources it wasn't until 1995 that I became a Japanese citizen and in many other countries back in the '80s a foreign national criticizing the government so forcefully might expect a knock on the door in the night followed by deportation or even their "disappearance" — while in more moderate states they'd perhaps be asked to leave or have their visa terminated is freedom of speech — and so it was that I was neither terminated nor turfed out — but instead became a regular on nationwide television That was in the good old days when people still wrote on paper and I would receive mail from all over the country One of the letters I remember getting was from a group of citizens concerned about the cutting of ancient cedars on Yaku Island as that outpost of Kagoshima Prefecture about 60 km off the southernmost tip of Kyushu is known in Japanese rises to 1,935 meters at the summit of Mount Miyanoura In winter the peak is often covered with snow with the result that on Yakushima you can be in magnificent snow country then hike down to a hot spring and then dive into a coral sea — all in one day I went with a TV company to make a documentary about what might be the oldest living tree on Earth the so-called Jomon sugi — a Japanese cedar that some estimate to be over 7,000 years old some of the tree's branches have fallen under the weight of snow and counting their annual rings showed that even they were more than 2,000 years old At just over 25 meters high and with a circumference of 16.4 meters the tree is named after the Jomon Period of prehistoric Japan that extended from around 14,000 years ago until 300 B.C. and whose peoples are now best known for their beautiful cord-pattern pottery with that TV crew we took our time hiking up to see the tree This is an area where any cedar under 1,000 years old is called a "kosugi," meaning "child cedar." When we finally reached and filmed the tree I imagined that I could see an ancient face in the trunk and my reaction — in Japanese — was to feel that this was no mere tree If I was to believe what the experts told me that still living specimen was already growing before the birth of Christ — even before the Pyramids were built our guides took us to see the continuing destruction of that old forest We crossed steep slopes on which the ancient trees had been totally destroyed by rocks tumbling down from the increasingly unstable slopes there began a few years of my joining the campaign to save the remnants of the ancient cedar forest and to get Japan to join the UNESCO World Heritage community That was when I began to spend more and more time sitting on committees I was pushing for the establishment of a technical college which could train people to become competent national park rangers eco-tourism guides and research fieldworkers in environmental assessment Yakushima became Japan's first UNESCO natural heritage site in 1993 with 21 percent of the island now protected including an unbroken slope of forest that goes from the coastal subtropical zone through montane temperate rain forest and on up to high moors and cold temperate grassland in 1995 the first intake of students was enrolled into the new college which is now called the Tokyo Environmental Technical College — although I far prefer its original name its students have always done their first-year fieldwork training up here where I live in Kurohime and their second-year fieldwork training on Yakushima Now about 20 of our graduates live and work on Yakushima I am now the honorary president of the college Yakushima is also home to a subspecies of small shika deer weighing 19 to 37 kilograms whereas those in Nagano and throughout the mainland typically tip the scales at 49 to 80 kilograms the population on the island was estimated at around 19,000 their numbers have increased so much that you can see the effect the animals are having on ground vegetation facilities for the hygienic butchering of deer were built on the island in 2014 with venison on the menu of many restaurants and hotels the deer have formed a special relationship with the Yaku macaques (Macaca fuscata yakui) which are also much smaller than their mainland cousins They have thick grey coats and black hands and feet and live in very close matriarchal groups of up to 50 individuals It is estimated that between 6,000 and 8,000 of these monkeys live on the island The Yaku macaques are very aggressive to other groups but they have formed a close relationship with the deer Research has indicated that the deer are drawn to monkey chatter when the macaques are feeding in the trees because they drop leaves and fruit that the deer can feed on I saw deer traveling with the monkeys on the ground and I have also seen footage of young monkeys playing with the deer — even trying to ride them Yakushima's deer and macaques tolerate each other and share in a way that I do so wish we humans could emulate Packing his trademark black Walther PPK 7.65 mm automatic agent 007 set foot on the island of Naoshima just one day after escaping the clutches of a powerful sociopath and his henchman The scene is from "The Man with the Red Tattoo," the 2002 novel by Raymond Benson who carried the creative baton of the James Bond franchise that has been through various hands since the death of its originator in 1964.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1499653692894-0'); }); my first stop after disembarking at the Seto Inland Sea port of Miyanoura was the tiny The Man with the Red Tattoo Museum Sponsored contents planned and edited by JT Media Enterprise Division.