One of Okinawa’s distinct features that sets it apart from mainland Japan is its lack of a railway system
not counting the tourist-centric monorail between the airport and Kokusai-dori
Beginning in 1914 and for the following three decades
tramways and rail-running horsecarts were an integral part of the island’s transportation system for everything from hauling cargo to getting children to school on time
The Okinawan train service used toy-like German steam engines on narrow gauge 2’6” wide tracks
Locally called “Keibin,” the dialect word for “light rail,” the roughly cruciform railway system would ultimately be composed of 51.3 kilometers of track linking Kadena in the north
was the terminus of the east-west 9-km route to Naha
the capital and major port on Okinawa’s west coast
Yonabaru Station was a modern grey structure in a sea of traditional red tile roofed buildings
surrounded by small metal steam trains and wooden horse carts piled high with goods
Both the shipping port and train station were destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa shortly thereafter
a replica of old Yonabaru Station was built on the site of the original and is now the Yonabaru Railway Museum
Okinawa's only museum dedicated to rail transportation
It’s a small museum but appropriately sized for the story it tells of the role rail transportation played in Okinawan life for a short while
No Keibin trains survive and even of the old station; only the stumps of pillars remain behind the museum
Inside there are a few small artifacts and lots of pictures
including railway highlights such as Crown Prince Hirohito’s 1921 visit (Hirohito became emperor five years later)
What interested me most were the video and written stories of people who used the train in their everyday lives
I find the small stories color the black and white of history books with human details
like how the train didn’t stop but merely slowed enough people could board as it passed through some stations
That story came from women who rode it like a school bus when they were kids
I also liked how it touched on not just the trains but also the roles of trams and rail-riding horse carts
We spent about an hour inside though really you can breeze through in about 15 minutes
Admission is 100 yen and you’re given a replica train ticket which you can then punch and stamp with original equipment just like at a real old train station
the staff may be fine with using a phone translation app to read displays
The museum is open every day except Tuesday
If you want to experience a tiny train for yourself
Neo Park in Nago has a diesel-powered miniature train masquerading as a one of the old Keibin trains
ADMISSION: 100 yen (Free for elementary school age and under)
ADMISSION: 1,300 yen (700 yen for 4 years old through elementary school age)
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a funny tune caught my attention coming from a radio
It was Okinawan folk song “Keibin Tetsudo Bushi,” a tune I often heard at the community center where I used to meet my friends in the 1980s
we didn’t realize that it is actually dedicated to Keibin Tetsudo
a railway service that used to exist in Okinawa
Although its official name was “Keiben Tetsudo”
the railway came to be commonly recognized as “Keibin Tetsudo”
Keibin Tetsudo was a common mode of transportation for many Okinawans until it was discontinued during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945
around Okinawa there are still remnants of this important mode of transportation
One place is at the Yonabaru Light Rail Station (Keibin Tetsudo Yonabaru Eikisha)
where visitors can see old photos of the Keibin Tetsudo in action
I made a stop at the station to learn more about the rail’s history
the Keibin Tetsudo transported 3.28 million passengers in 1941
though the population was around 570,000 at the time
As someone who was born and grew up in Okinawa in the 1970s
daily travel by rail rather than by car is beyond my imagination
Okinawa only has one mono railway built in 2003 that covers the Naha City-area
so driving is the primary mode of transportation in the prefecture
Keibin Tetsudo was first launched in Okinawa in 1914
Yanabaru was a logistic hub at the time for goods and materials coming from the northern part of the island before they were consumed in Naha
a line connecting Kadena and Naha was launched
With a line connecting Itoman and Kokuba in Naha City completed in the following year
Keibin Tetesudo came to cover the mid and southern parts of Okinawa’s main island
The railway was public transportation and also a means of carrying products from local sugar factories
it was used for military logistics as well
“Keibin Tetsudo’s trains were steam-powered at first,” explained Kina
“Gas-powered cars were introduced after the Showa Era began in 1926
Although the trains back then didn’t run as fast as they do today
it took 24 minutes to go from Yonabaru to Naha
A train would go at 20 to 30 km/h on average
“Given that it still takes about half an hour to go from here (Yonabaru) to Naha by car
transportation time has not changed much between then and now,” Kina said
you would want to use the train if it was still in service today.”
The station’s photos of the former line demonstrated just how impactful it was on the daily lives of Okinawans
There is even an augmented reality (AR) video visitors can watch on a tablet borrowed at the office that shows the train arriving at the station
Even though I could see the photos and the modern recreation of the Keiben Tetsudo making a stop at Yonabaru
it was difficult for me to grasp it as reality
the display and folk song I listened to as a teen prove that it’s a piece of Okinawa history that is lost but not forgotten
*A free parking space is available by the building
there are also remnants of pillars used for the original building of the station attesting to its history
Other locations that exhibit remains of the Keibin Tetsudo railway
part of a railway that connects Naha and Kadena is exhibited
*Exhibited this location is part of the railway along with the “sugar train”
a type of train mobilized in Minami Daito Island to transport sugar canes
This location used to be a terminal for Keibin Tetsudo
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an 81-year-old resident of the town of Yonabaru
What she remembers instead is him sitting on the porch of their hilltop home in the village of Chinen
which forms part of the present-day city of Nanjo
drinking sake every night while gazing out to sea
His eyes were always looking into the distance
never seeming to focus their attention on the family by his side.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1499653692894-0'); });
It was shortly after Japan’s surrender in the Pacific War
which passed through the stone walls and fences of the house
was fixed on the vast Pacific Ocean where U.S
The glaring lights on the vessels appeared all the brighter from their house
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The Yonabaru tug-of-war on July 31 will pit the city's east side against its west in a competition that dates back some 400 years
The contest is the climax of the city's summer festival
It is one of Japan's largest tug-of-war contests (second only to neighboring Naha
It was initially established as a votive offering for bountiful harvests and wealth to citizens.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1499653692894-0'); });
historical figures representing the east and west sides of Yonabaru stand atop the rope
Assembling the rope for the tug-of-war is a surreal spectacle as both teams bring their respective halves together and finally tie a knot by using a 3-meter wooden pole to secure it into place
As soon as the wooden pole is set between the rope halves
the entire rope is dropped to the ground and in a flurry the contest begins
everyone is bound to be celebrating come Sunday evening
expect to find live music and a parade that will kick off festivities early Saturday
Other entertainment will include eisa dancing (a form of folk dance originating from the Ryukyu Islands)
The tug-of-war event is open to everyone and is scheduled to begin around 5 p.m
so make sure to grab a protein drink at lunch
The Yonabaru Festival will be held at Udunyama Youth Square in Yonabaru, Okinawa Prefecture, on July 30-31. Admission is free. For more information, visit www.town.yonabaru.okinawa.jp/ootsunahiki/index.html
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