Lithuania's vibrant central cityA city with tangible history
old town charm and a booming local arts scene
the city of Kaunas is putting itself firmly on the international map in 2022
Kaunas was an intriguing travel option long before 2022
The second biggest city in the southernmost Baltic state
The lanes of its Old Town proudly retain their medieval heritage and the castle dates to the 14th-century - but Kaunas doesn’t linger in the past
the city has developed a distinctive modern and creative identity
Kaunas is a refreshing weekend destination for British travellers looking for a new city to explore
whether they want to dine well in the restaurants on Laisves Aleja
admire the region’s unique interwar modernist architecture
You're sure to find yourself feeling the sense of marvel and discovery that locals here have coined simply 'kaunastic'
Its construction is a prime example of Eclecticism
with its Gothic design taking on elements of Renaissance
Baroque and Neogothic styles over the years
Baroque and Neogothic styles over the years.Day one: enjoy Old Town charmMorningStart your day by jumping onto the Aleksotas Funicular
an elegant antique that's been whisking passengers up to the top of Aleksotas Hill since 1935
Enjoy panoramic views and a unique perspective of Kaunas’s Old Town before heading down to lose yourself in its cobbled streets and cosy cafes
Top off the morning with a tour of Kaunas Castle
with a lone surviving tower standing as a symbol of its former strength
The sandy beaches on the church’s doorstep
arguably the city’s prettiest water feature
offer opportunities for swimming and boating
who issued travel visas for Jewish families escaping the Holocaust
Depending on who’s in town, catch a show at the Zalgiris Arena
This 20,000-capacity arena has hosted gigs by the likes of Muse
The Pazaislis Monastery is also an award-winning film location - recently appearing in the TV series Catherine The Great
or head to the Yard Gallery to view community street art projects
Return to Town Hall Square for one of the many open-air concerts and events taking place throughout the summer months
Kaunas has a host of art and design experiences to enjoy
from interwar modernist architecture to contemporary street art
bicycles and e-scooters are plentiful and the centre can easily be explored on foot
For more information, visit visit.kaunas.lt/en
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The five-arch Ponte de Tiberio bridge can be seen from the pastel-coloured cottages of Borgo San Giuliano
a former fishing neighbourhood located half a mile inland
This time, however, I’m not suggesting leaving your phone behind. You’ll need it to locate a few more remote sites or simply to play Čiurlionis’ music as you walk. And, of course, to capture an unexpected side of Kaunas that will inevitably reveal itself when you take a new route. “Echoes of Čiurlionis” was sent to my mailbox by the Kaunas IN agency
they’ve delighted us with themed routes exploring Aleksotas
and leisurely walks have also given in to Čiurlionization
to which the route invites you to return several times
where should the “Echoes of Čiurlionis” route begin
it’s dedicated to a figure from Dzūkija who learned Lithuanian relatively late and spent very little time in this city
It’s important to note that this is a new map
not a replica of the national Čiurlionis’ Route project created a few years ago
The new guide directs me to Laisvės Avenue
but I imagine that Čiurlionis must have arrived in Kaunas by train
and he was hurrying to the first-ever Lithuanian art exhibition in Kaunas
It was based on the second Vilnius exhibition and organized in the Adamčikas Pro-Gymnasium
which was located on Laisvės Avenue.
we reach Kaunas from Vilnius through the same tunnel
There is no other such tunnel in Lithuania that is actively used
the modern passenger does not arrive at the same historic railway station that has welcomed and seen off many historical personalities and witnessed many joyful and painful events for our nation
the station was bombed by the retreating Germans
and what we see today was built by the soviets
I leave the station and – what a coincidence – find myself on M
unlike many of the national heroes honored during the First Republic
Čiurlionis did not disappear during the Soviet occupation
and effort that was devoted to the commemoration of his centenary in 1975
did not willingly fall in line with the Soviet narrative
I might have gotten a little carried away with the titles
it’s time to head to Adamčikas Progymnasium
In its place now stands a fine example of modernist architecture: the Kaunas City Municipality building
Some intriguing details about that art exhibition have survived
Čiurlionis decided not to stay for the opening
there were people who weren’t fond of formal speeches
the story is continued by Sofija Kymantaitė:
It was decided to take the 2nd exhibition to Kaunas […] I am also going to help Konstantin with the exhibition
without a second thought that it is not at all appropriate for the Vice-Chairman to run away from the opening of the exhibition
The exhibition was inside the Adamčikas Progymnasium
a pump was emerging from the ground where villagers
could water their horses – a wonderful thing
across the bridge to the Aleksotas hills…
The current Vytautas the Great Bridge over the Nemunas did not exist back then; it only recently celebrated its 95th birthday
there wasn’t even a whiff of the architecture of optimism and such masterpieces of technology as funiculars
the Nikolay Avenue at the time (although Čiurlionienė mentions Laisvės Avenue
the name has only been used since February 1919) was used by a horse-drawn tram
and Steponas Kairys was not yet engaged in designing the sewage systems of Kaunas at that time either
Speaking of the bridge that the lovers crossed
it is also important to remember that there really was no such thing as we have today
a representative of the Vytautas the Great War Museum
there was this anecdote circulating among Kaunas residents
was the longest in the world and the journey through it took up to two weeks
This was because the Orthodox Julian calendar was in force on this side of the Nemunas
and the Catholic Gregorian calendar on the other side
The difference between the calendars was thirteen days.”
After admiring the panorama of Kaunas Old Town
which has changed little in over a hundred years (though the skyline tells a different story)
it’s time to head back to the centre and climb another – Owl – hill
it was known as New Street in both Russian and German
you will see a white poodle and its owner’s contemporary fresco on it
which is important for the history of the city and the country
Pending the construction of the temporary Čiurlionis Gallery
brought from Russia (where the paintings had been hidden since the First World War) and acquired from a young widow
Read more about the history of this building on the route “Echoes of Čiurlionis” route; and we rush to Žaliakalnis
given to establish the much-needed Kaunas Art School
The creative aura was perfect for building a gallery with the bricks of – how clever
It belongs to the Academy of Arts of Kaunas College
and the analogue photography centre is to be opened here soon
one of the exhibitions of the Kaunas Biennial will be held there this autumn
he was a contemporary and also an interdisciplinary artist at the time
The most intriguing question is what he would think of Kaunas’ modernist “crown” – the museum bearing his name
and other art lovers from Lithuania and all over the world
told our magazine about an Italian professor who
was smuggled into then-closed-off Kaunas by her friends – dressed in a warm cotton wool-padded jacket – just to see Čiurlionis’ work
Would Konstantinas settle in the Osvaldas Daugelis Library
filled with the most fascinating art publications
Or perhaps he would put on a VR headset and soar through the Angel Paths (Angelų takų) worlds inspired by himself
The premiere of the new virtual reality project Creation of Worlds (Pasaulių sutvėrimas) by Kristina Buožytė and Vitalijus Žukas has already taken place
The creators of these VR experiences claim that working with Čiurlionis is easy
Daugelis and other former directors of the M
including Paulius Galaunė and Petras Stauskas
who lived as a widow for 47 years until her passing in 1958
It was likely a family decision to bury her in Kaunas
yet Čiurlionis himself is laid to rest in Rasos Cemetery in Vilnius
which is another stop along the“Echoes of Čiurlionis” route
Konstantinas had four brothers and four sisters
The fates of the large Čiurlionis family took many different turns
Valerija Čiurlionytė was a cultural activist and a museum worker
In 1915 she accompanied her brother’s paintings to Moscow on the authority of the Lithuanian Art Society
she worked for many years in the above-mentioned museum and fostered Čiurlionis’ remembrance together with her sister Jadvyga
Valerija is buried in the Eiguliai Cemetery
Guide Laimonas Užomeckis gives excellent tours of Eiguliai and Petrašiūnai Cemetery
“Echoes of Čiurlionis” is a map with neither a clear beginning nor an end
Starting with architecture and the objects that we can actually visit (or at least see in old photographs)
it invites us to move to another experiential level
horizons – it seems that Čiurlionis’ code is forever inscribed in the DNA of Kaunas
a city that did not manage to become his own
I resolve to continue my walks this summer and to draw new parallels in my own and Čiurlionis’ microcosms
visit.kaunas.lt
Be it just a few days or a longer holiday
Kaunas always invites you to discover and explore the city’s most famous places and secret corners
showing a different character of the city each time
for those who value gastronomic experiences and for history lovers – Kaunas has something in store for everyone
we have selected the most popular places in Kaunas – from centuries-old historical sites to ultra-modern futuristic projects
You will never run out of energy and good spirits as you can choose from a wide range of cafés making delicious breakfasts
restaurants offering gourmet experiences and bars serving the tastiest cocktails
consider a walk or a bike ride – the pedestrian and cycling paths in Kaunas wind along the most picturesque routes
where tranquil parks and green spaces blend seamlessly into the modern rhythm of the ever-vibrant city
For more #kaunastic ideas, please explore the digital maps or discover the highlights of Kaunas during organised sightseeing tours
• Kaunas Castle and Santakos Park
built in the 14th century and contemplating the magnificent history of Kaunas
is the starting point for many to get to know the city
Walking further towards the Santakos Park and the confluence of the Nemunas and the Neris
you will feel the romantic element of history – it is believed that in the embrace of the two rivers everything started
• Kaunas Town Hall
the most important building in the city housed a variety of institutions – from a prison to a university’s department for studies of architecture
the recently renovated Town Hall is again among the top visited places in Kaunas
the most important attraction is the masterfully designed and comprehensive exhibition about the nature of the city of Kaunas
the museum offers 19 exhibit spaces that explain what a city is anyway and what kind of a city Kaunas is
the White Hall and other premises will once again be available for the traditional registering of marriage
the Town Hall offers the services of tourist information professionals
• Aleksotas funicular and panorama of the city
It is the place where the famous Lithuanian painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis escaped from his exhibition to see the breathtaking view of the Old Town together with Sofia
Cross the Aleksotas Bridge and take a ride on the historic funicular up to the observation platform to enjoy the view and sometimes the music as young talents are studying nearby
• Vilniaus Street
Take notes: a nourishing brunch at Holy Donut (all day long!)
an in depth exploration of the Historical Presidential Palace of the Republic of Lithuania
passerby-watching from the patio of one of a dozen cafés
buildings reminiscent of the Hanseatic times
pubs and galleries hidden in the surrounding lanes
music in the courtyard of OLDMAN Kaunas behind it
• Courtyard Gallery
an artist who moved into a house here more than a decade ago
noticed that his neighbours were alienated and had forgotten the shared past of the courtyard
When Jakas started adding pictures of Jewish families
still being updated with new artistic accents
• Laisvės Avenue
Have a coffee or juice at one of the trendy spots by the St
the Archangel (Garrison) Church (also known as Soboras) and make your way along one of the longest pedestrian streets in the region
even though its history dates back to tzarist times
trendy shopping and the most stylish Kaunas residents and their pets
this unique science museum is already one of the most „instagrammable“ places in Kaunas
as the ultra-modern shapes of the building
which seems to have naturally emerged from the island of Nemunas
meet all the criteria for a beautiful shot
We can’t wait to dive into the exhibitions
And then we’ll probably go and settle on the island – it has basketball
it has a swimming pool and this science museum – what else would you need
• Žalgirio Arena
now it is hard to imagine that 15 years ago there was no arena in Kaunas and all Žalgiris fans were struggling to find a place in the old Sports Hall
practically all Euroleague games are sold out well in advance
the green-and-white crowd is considered to be one of the strongest in Europe
you probably haven’t been to Kaunas either
you can jump into the Olympic-size swimming pool right here
• M. K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art and Vytautas the Great War Museum
and the two century-old museums are important not only for the city and the cultural community
you will see the works of our great symbolist Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis
as well as the heritage of Lithuanian folk masters
examples of modern art and regularly scheduled exhibitions
Vytautas the Great War Museum has hundreds of interesting things to explore
ranging from the authentic remains of the Lituanica aircraft (the first Lithuanian attempt to fly across the Atlantic which ended tragically) to a miniature partisan bunker
stop for a rest at the vibrant Vienybės Square
You may even find yourself a concert – from jazz to carillon
as seven decades passed between the construction and the consecration of the church
a radio factory operated in the unfinished building
the church was returned to the people of faith
The basilica’s observation platform offers a 360-degree panoramic view of Kaunas
and this iconic place in Žaliakalnis can be reached from the city centre by a historic funicular in just a minute
• Art Deco Museum and Amsterdam School Museum
the world and Lithuania learned that Kaunas Modernism has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List
If you haven’t yet discovered this architectural and social phenomenon
we invite you to start with these two stops
founded by two entrepreneurs – Karolis Banys and Petras Gaidamavičius
Thousands of visitors to the Art Deco Museum and the Amsterdam School Museum are grateful to them for their heartfelt initiative
in-depth insight and the authentic experience of the immersive tours
• Lithuanian Zoo
The largest and oldest zoo in Lithuania has just been fundamentally renovated
but also to the flora kingdom that creates an impression of a desert or jungle
It will appeal to both children and adults
• VMU Botanical Garden
The century-old garden is set in an old manor house – that alone is enough to make it worth visiting
the „descendants“ of the Lithuanian ancient woods
an exotic conservatory – the Vytautas Magnus University Botanical Garden is alive all year round and delights with a different natural accent every month
the Botanical Garden hosts music concerts of all genres
poetry readings and many other events (such as the Botanical Nights)
where nature harmoniously merges with culture and art
• Ninth Fort Memorial Complex
The most modern fort of the Kaunas Fortress
has definitely been noticed by everyone travelling along the A1 motorway
It features an impressive monument to the victims of Nazism
erected in 1984 (sculptor Alfonsas Vincentas Ambraziūnas
architects Gediminas Baravykas and Vytautas Vielius
You can also visit a spectacular installation by the world-renowned artist Christian Boltanski nearby and the museum’s exhibitions within the fort
• Pažaislis
The Pažaislis Church and Convent Complex is one of the most impressive and beautiful masterpieces of late Baroque architecture in the Northeastern Europe
It is admired by architectural connoisseurs
now under the care of and inhabited by the Congregation of Sisters of St
houses the Museum of Religious Heritage and Monte Pacis hospitality complex
with its restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide
It is the venue for the main concerts of the Pažaislis Music Festival
the Pažaislis Church and Convent Complex was named the best filming location in Europe in 2020
• Kasdienybės Bakehouse
The bakehouse with its exclusive and cosy interior offers freshly baked croissants
real New York-style cheesecake and options for light lunches
The bakehouse serves varietal coffee from Lithuanian roasters and values a friendly and close relationship with its customers
• Bundu
Here you can savour delicious handmade pastries
throw yourself into a crazy party with a bun in your hand
This place is open to everyone including your pets
• Kavalierius
It is a place with a unique interior decor and a character
a favourite of many who live and work nearby
• Spurginė
An authentic doughnut shop on Laisvės Avenue
It might be a good history class for your kids
• Green Café
it would take a year to try all the available coffee varieties
35 types of coffee and 10 preparation methods – do the math yourself
• Vero Cafe
You will always be asked what coffee beans you prefer and coffee will be kindly served in a ceramic cup instead of a paper one
the eco-friendly solutions are designed with a strong focus on the well-being of orangutans
• Jurgis ir Drakonas
A favourite among families in Kaunas – healthy food and a variety of activities for everyone
• Momo Grill
operating in a historic building on the banks of the Nemunas River
presents its essence in just a few words: „Knowledge AND feelings
• Pelėdinė
This burger place juggles a short but very precise menu
Vegetarians fall in love with the pumpkin burger
A special bar for puppies deserves its own praise
• Talutti
The Talutti chain offers an endless selection of the world’s diverse flavours
and the dishes are not only delicious but also very good looking
• Goodman
you can have fun by simply taking a seat at the smart table or playing the games the restaurant offers
• Kuhne
Do you know the sound of fork falling on a plate
which is most easily reached by the historic funicular
• Ipanema
It is a family-run pizzeria in Panemunė – a picturesque part of Kaunas nestled along the Nemunas River
renowned as a charming resort destination during the interwar period
• Monte Pacis
Enjoy the dishes inspired by monks’ secrets and made from locally grown produce as well as the beverages selected by experts
the restaurant was included in the Michelin Guide
• Višta Puode
• Dia
Indian and other cuisines blend perfectly well here
• Bernelių Užeiga
and enjoy what we are so proud of – the exquisite Lithuanian cuisine
featuring a wealth of national heritage products and dishes certified by the Culinary Heritage Foundation
• Marsas Mieste
Modern European and Asian cuisine in a space inspired by the spirit of industrialism
• Nüman
the restaurant is a perfect whole that blends the decor
the restaurant was included in the Michelin Guide and received the „Bib Gourmand“ label
confirming the excellent quality-price ratio
• Donelaičio
A restaurant with unique cocktails and vinyl nights in the city centre
• Piano Piano
• Park Avenue
this restaurant invites you to discover new tastes and to spend time as if you were in the countryside
• Klimas
the newest of which are born out of new encounters matching the bliss that comes while sitting in the patio
• Hop Doc
And very attentive staff who will sense your wishes as soon as you walk in
• Šventas Dūmas
A gastrobar full of mythology and mysticism
Every inch of it has its own mystery and magic
the walls are covered with ceremonial tribal masks and headdresses and real miracles happen as soon as when food and drink come to the table
• Bardakas
confidently declare representatives of the nightclub
which caters for the hungry stomachs of city dwellers at other times of the day
Applauds to the location – right in front of the former Kaunas central post office
• Republic
A thick syrup of what you would find in English and Irish pubs
With button-ripping snack offers and an army of taps
Most important sports matches are always on
so don’t forget to reserve a seat at the bar for the important matches to come
• Vingiu Dubingiu
They do care about the beverage culture in Lithuania
that is why this place is not just about drinking beer
reflecting the seasons and focusing on local production as well as best imports
• 2 ½ Obuolio Kišenė
• Kultūra
staff coming up with the most unexpected solutions
• Hogas Pub
an informal atmosphere and quality time come together
Put Kaunas on your map, discover, explore and experience a Kaunastic time! For more tips and inspiration, see our website ww.visit.kaunas.lt
If you haven’t wondered how she manages to do everything
you should know that Julita is also a new mom of twins: Leonardas and Sofija
We sat down with her to talk about the cafe and the turning millstones of Pranciškus Mill
about the strengthening of Kaunas residents’ kneecaps and her own life paths
Ožeškienės Street and Aleksotas district residents’ watering at the mouth over the baked goods of Bundu and Pranciškus Mill since 2022
vegan and gluten-free treats are created daily from freshly made flour
Julita and I meet in Bundu – a hundred square meters filled with sweet smells
the café has managed to bring together not only a team with a lot of creative freedom
which today almost independently takes care Bundu daily
from the Halloween party during fall to the dance event that celebrates spring
Just like before one of Julita’s yoga classes
We start with Aleksotas and her grandfather Pranciškus
who in 1996 set up a mill in his house and soon became a celebrity in the district
The initial desire to give people the opportunity to grind their own grain quickly grew into a flour and health food shop with queues
but he always found time to tell each customer about his products
Having grown up and lived in such an environment
Julita says that her life was filled with flour and pastries
but she did not plan to connect her future with it
“Despite completing my studies in food science and technology and experimenting with pastries since my teenage years
I always thought my path would lead elsewhere,” the co-founder of Bundu says
who has been practicing yoga since the age of eight
“Although I had lost interest in yoga and turned to other sports at one point
I was finally brought back to this path.” After the first year of university
she went to her relatives living in the USA for the summer where she completed the yoga teacher’s course
The food sphere became less and less of an interest
and movement and yoga eventually seeped into her blood and became her daily bread
Julita couldn’t stay away from bread for long
and when the cousin who played an important role in the mill left
it took me another three years to get back on this path as well
Even when I try to go in another direction
I always return to basics,” the café’s co-founder thinks about her vocation
Julita fully committed to the mill in early 2021: she established a small company
news about it spread only by word of mouth
I had already started baking sourdough bread and since there weren’t many places to buy it in Kaunas
the number of buyers and interested people began to grow.”
Julita’s husband Tomas became more involved in the mill’s activities
and things started to progress even faster – the assortment expanded with cookies and granola
and other baked goods were developed in collaboration with a café in Kaunas
“It’s funny to think that back then we had a pretty unprofessional website
and it seems like we weren’t doing anything special.”
As Pranciškus Mill started to operate at its full capacity and the number of customer cafes expanded
it was decided to set up a bakery in the mill in the fall of the same year
“I remember we walked around the house and wondered like some developers whether it could fit here or there
we re-opened not only with the bakery but also with a renovated shop
and some people wanted to get involved in the project even more
All that was missing was someone asking a question
“What about a cafe in the city center?” The answer was clear
“A cafe in the city center.” We signed a lease in June
and in September we opened the blue doors of Bundu,” Julita remembers
“We are opening to learn,” Bundu announced almost two years ago about the opening of the cafe on September 1
who says that the beginning was intended for testing
“We didn’t want to do everything perfectly from the first moment
We still return to this question as a team: why and how do we do everything
Maybe that’s why everything turned out so well
even if there was a lot of chaos in the beginning
we did everything with the team from scratch
what kind of mixer is needed for the kitchen,” Julita laughs
The philosophy of Pranciškus Mill and Bundu is reflected in the motto
which the owners have been following since the beginning of the business
“Our motto primarily means the desire to bake tasty and high-quality food
and if the products are also vegan or gluten-free
We have always tried to offer healthier products
Perhaps this is a kind of legacy of my grandfather
but stability and proven recipes are also important to us
Sometimes I wonder how people still haven’t gotten tired of the same buckwheat cookies and cinnamon buns,” Julita smiles
She notes that since day one Bundu has been very successful in gathering a reliable and extremely creative team
“Even what our space looks like and what’s happening at Bundu today is a credit to our team
Someone loves plants and has turned the café into a jungle
someone decided to create drawings for the counter
We strive very hard to ensure that everyone here can realize themselves: we give our colleagues the freedom to organize
It’s also nice that we even have a list of people who would like to work for us,” café’s co-founder says
Although at the beginning Julita and her husband were fully involved in the work at the bakery and the cafe
they soon realized that it was time to slowly let go of the project.
“We pulled back a little more in the spring of 2023
so we decided to free the team’s hands for creativity and kept the more boring jobs for ourselves
we were able to withdraw for a while and focus on the children – now we are coming back little by little
taking the burden off of our colleagues’ shoulders,” the yoga instructor says
Julita says that they couldn’t stay still for long
even after the twins were born a few months ago
our ability to juggle different activities has improved
so we do everything together with the kids – we even go to the forest
so going out for two hours to lead a yoga class is no problem
It’s really nice to adapt to the new role and not fall out of life
and we even received praise from the twins’ physiotherapist for their active lifestyle,” Julita smiles
“I am glad that my life path contains different spheres
Then it seems that you are always busy with something
It’s a fact that we feel our best when we move and are active
Julita is more focused on yoga and acro yoga
“This is a broader concept that encompasses a person’s movement capabilities
which refers to a person’s physical competencies
It’s different from a gym where everyone can understand how to do an exercise
and then increase the number of repetitions or weights
you might fail three times in a row just in terms of coordination
And you have to accept that you are failing
But the best learning happens when things don’t work out
and you are forced to learn something new,” Julita says
One thing is certain: all three will remain authentic and open to new possibilities
and doing less but with better quality is our foundation
We dream of educational activities taking place in the cafe
the future for me and Tomas is completely unknown – maybe some new path will appear
The most important thing is not to box yourself in
because life can always lead you down a path you never would have imagined.”
pmalunas.lt
instagram.com/bundu.bakery
instagram.com/julitamoves
The controversial Soviet statues on Vilnius' Green Bridge [Image: Wiki Commons]
Vilnius municipality has announced it will start removing the Soviet statues on Vilnus' Green Bridge the week commencing July 13
confirmed the work will begin early next week
and preparation for the removal of the controversial statues will begin this weekend.
Zubriakovas underlined "all necessary safety measures" would be taken to ensure a safe removal process and it will take up to two weeks to complete the work.
The statues have stood on the bridge in the centre of the Lithuanian capital since 1952
and depict typical Soviet iconography - Red Army soldiers
Since Lithuania gained its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991
debates have raged between Lithuanian politicians and historians on whether the statues should remain on the Green Bridge
Critics claim the statues are relics of Soviet propaganda and are offensive to those who faught for Lithuania's independence from the Soviet regime
while those in favour claim they demonstrate the country is now comfortable with its Soviet past
the last Soviet iconography was removed in March 2015 as part of its municipality's de-Sovietisation process.
The final remaining Soviet symbols in Kaunas were hammer-and-sickles on the city's Aleksotas Bridge
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How did you start working at the Kaunas Film Office
What changes has it undergone in the last year
I’ve always been interested in the filming process and what’s behind the scenes
so I was looking for opportunities to contribute to it while studying in Kaunas
That’s how I met my former director Aurelijus Silkinis and I joined the filming of the first project – Owl Mountain – in 2016
After trying myself in a position with more responsibilities
the director offered me a paid position at the Kaunas Film Office after the internship
Although I didn’t plan to look for a job then
I took up the challenge for which I am still grateful
We could say that the history of the Kaunas Film Office began in 2012 when the Kaunas Film Studio was founded
Its maintenance was difficult and expensive
it was decided to close it but at the initiative of the Kaunas city municipality and A
a film office was formed with a more specific goal
focused on increasing the awareness of Kaunas in the film industry
but many things still needed to be created from scratch
both in terms of finding locations and making connections
and the word about us as reliable specialists began to spread
What is the role of the Kaunas Film Office in the process of making films
operating globally within the film industry and focused on assisting film crews in a specific region
The three main factors that attract filmmakers to Lithuania are locations
tax relief and competent specialists servicing the cinema site
We aim to create as friendly an environment as possible for filmmakers coming here and to put different locations of Kaunas to work
and organize visits to potential locations
Our work also includes negotiating agreements with site owners or administrators
Film productions have many departments with larger or smaller teams
which can be attributed to the activities of the film office
is involved in the filming process from start to finish
the question “Where will we shoot?” is one of the first ones after creating the script
locations that match the vision of the director or film artist are being sought even before it is finished
The Locations Department employs a wide variety of people
knowledge of our field and dedication to work
You can say that you have to be a little crazy and love adrenaline if you want to work in the film industry.
Do your responsibilities always remain the same
or do you have to adapt individually to each project
We try to respond to the needs of a specific project
we always ask ourselves: how will Kaunas benefit from this
Both in terms of investments and cultural value – these elements are important in assessing the significance of the project
we often do not limit ourselves to locations and their offer but provide all the necessary information about the procedure for filming in Kaunas
“Can we close Aleksotas Bridge?” to “Can we perhaps blow up the door of the Central Post Office?”
which sometimes requires up to fifty calls
Although we always try to fulfil the needs of our customers as best as possible
it is also important for us that Kaunas and its locations are not harmed
We perform a sort of monitoring function on the film set to ensure that the crew is following the rules and that the work is taking place with respect to the environment
Have you noticed changes in the specifics of the work of film crews over time
Do you feel the changing attitude of the people of Kaunas towards filming here
This can be noticed by working with different production companies
We see that more and more new professionals are entering film sets
bringing their own ideas and a different work ethic
Professionalism and responsibility are growing
and more and more projects are being filmed in Lithuania.
I am glad that Kaunas is a very friendly city for filming also because of the attitudes of its residents
there is some weariness and irritation due to the restrictions
while in Kaunas people are still very understanding and even curious
they started to see more and more benefits that came from these projects
We feel support and respect for our work from the townspeople as well as the desire for Kaunas to be recognized
I think that the big projects filmed in Kaunas contributed to this because seeing a scene that was filmed in your city on the big screens
Is there a big difference between working with Lithuanian and foreign projects
Lithuanian projects usually have a smaller budget
which limits the possibilities of renting a specific filming location or specific equipment and creating special and visual effects
national projects are often somewhat simpler but bring their own management challenges
It is also true that Lithuanians do not follow certain rules because they feel at home here
you can strongly feel how a certain identity is forming in the national cinema.
Foreign projects have much bigger teams and different departments
it is interesting that the Chornobyl team had a separate health and safety department
I remember when we offered them the ‘Death’ Bridge in Petrašiūnai – which has now gained the name of the show – the director said that he couldn’t have even dreamt of a better one
the Department of Health and Safety immediately put a stop to the plans after noticing that the bridge was old
clarifying the security level of the location
take care of even the smallest details to ensure the smoothness of work
each team member has more responsibilities
Which locations in Kaunas are the most popular for filming
And which ones have not yet been discovered by filmmakers
Maybe I’ll start with the undiscovered because there are a couple of places that we really believe in
One of them is the gallery of Mykolas Žilinskas
There is no need to additionally stop people or close the space to visitors
The rooms are spacious and can be transformed into many different environments
It’s a unique and beautiful location that we offer often and that producers love
I would also like to mention the uniquely designed KTU Faculty of Mechanical Engineering and Design
which has an impressive chandelier and an authentic atrium on the first floor
That space with concrete and granite elements and narrow connecting corridors looks extremely visual and promising
creators find it difficult to see their vision in it
Sometimes it’s easier to come to an empty place and create what you have in mind than to use existing elements
The most popular locations are mainly related to modernist architecture
We do a lot of filming in the Art Deco and Amsterdam School museums
Another location that always attracts filmmakers is the Kaunas Garrison Officers’ Club
Other very important places are Kaunas Lagoon Regional Park and Pažaislis Monastery and Church complex
Rumšiškės and The Open-Air Museum of Lithuania as well as Pravieniškės Prison greatly contribute to the attractiveness of our region for filming
And what are your favorite places in Kaunas
Kaunas is a very beautiful city to me; I am fascinated by its modernist architecture and authenticity
I am very happy when I see a high-quality restoration of buildings; my heart sings and I want to touch every surface and texture
I am very happy that our city has received the well-deserved evaluation of UNESCO heritage objects
How do you see the future of the Kaunas Film Office and what would you wish the filmmakers coming to Kaunas?
I only see the increasing recognition and appreciation of Kaunas as a city
It has a lot of potential and opportunities
so I see the future of the Kaunas Film Office focused on growth
and strengthening relations with the owners of local places
And I wish filmmakers to boldly dive into what the Kaunas region has to offer
kaunasfilmoffice.com
Perhaps the biggest priority in independent Lithuania was education
The basis of its development strategy was the establishment of the primary school network
which aimed to cultivate the intellectual potential of the young generation and ensure basic literacy
Since the early days of the country’s existence
compulsory primary education has been established as an aspiration at the state level
although it turned into real actions a bit later
Compulsory primary education was finally established in the temporary capital in 1928
Kaunas took over 21 primary schools from the former German occupation government
with a total of 43 classes and only 2218 students
so the network had to be improved as soon as possible
Some schools were settling in rented premises
a number of these buildings were built by private individuals for this purpose
Perhaps the most interesting phenomenon of that time was brick monumental school buildings developed by the municipality according to the latest trends
The construction of the first brick building
specifically designed for the primary school function
which was to become a kind of symbol of the advanced education system
With only one-ninth of the required amount (50 thousand litas) and the municipality not getting into an agreement with the ministry about the remaining part
only a part of the building was initially implemented
and classes were held here the following year
The 23rd Lithuanian elementary school which consisted of four grades started to work
and the need for elementary education in a rapidly growing city was only increasing
The original design of the two-story building created by the former head of the city’s Construction Department
had to be adjusted by his colleague Antanas Jokimas during construction
A three-story primary school named in honor of Vincas Kudirka (currently Vincas Kudirka pro-gymnasium
the municipality of the city built two schools
Both of them were externally and internally representing the ideas of the modernist era
Based on the knowledge acquired during his business trip in Sweden
Jokimas designed a school in Aušros Street (now Jonas Jablonskis Gymnasium
which was desperately needed for the residents of the growing Žaliakalnis district
He also built a school for Jewish children near the Nemunas (now Juozas Naujalis Music Gymnasium on Karaliaus Mindaugo Avenue)
Both schools were equipped with facilities that later became mandatory: gyms
apartments for the main building staff and showers
Both schools are harmoniously integrated into their plots
the schools of Kaunas were still rather overcrowded
especially in the ever-growing Žaliakalnis
the modern school in Aušros Street already had 50 percent more students than planned
which meant that 50 or more children had to cram in one classroom
in 1936 the duration of primary education has been extended to six years
even more modern elementary school for the children of Žaliakalnis started in Jonavos Street (currently a building belonging to the Lithuanian Army
The spot for it was chosen based on practical reasons because the current P
Kalpoko Street was already in municipality’s plans
and it was precisely in the sawmills and other companies operating in the Neris valley that a considerable number of the poorer inhabitants of the northern and western parts of Žaliakalnis worked
who needed a new primary school in the Old Town
Parallel to the Lithuanian bastion of education on Jonavos Street
a six grade Jewish primary school on Nemuno St
there was a lack of space for new buildings in the densely built-up area of the historical Old Town
and after the bus station was moved to another place
which at that time competed with cities like Šiauliai in terms of population
received a modern primary school (now Motiejus Valančius school-kindergarten
built on an irregular plot in the chaotic environment of Krantai
The projects of all these schools were prepared by the architect Stasys Kudokas
who worked in the Construction Department of the Kaunas City Municipality at the time
and eventually became one of the most famous figures in the field of architecture at the time
Another school designed by him emerged on the hills of Aleksotas in 1937
which was one of the gates to the city and the monumental Institute of Physics and Chemistry of Vytautas Magnus University
sort of obliged the school to be architecturally exceptional
The main entrance of the school that received a name of J
this is the only brick school of that time that has not survived
it was blown up during the Second World War
the municipality was already overseeing 42 primary schools with 11 248 pupils in their 253 grades
18 private schools with 64 grades and another 1,526 students enrolled in them
strengthened the city’s education capacity
13 new primary schools were built (another five were completely renovated)
11 of which appeared after the introduction of compulsory primary education
The largest primary school in Lithuania was built in Šančiai in 1939 (now Kaunas Adult and Youth Education Center
After the famous collapse of the municipal bus garage
Stasys Kudokas’ duties in designing municipal buildings had already been taken over by another architect – well-known to the architecture enthusiasts of today – Feliksas Bielinskis
who also prepared a project for a monumental building on Sandėlių Street
the implementation of which cost almost a million litas at the time.
Bielinskis also prepared projects for the last two schools of the independence period in Kaunas
One of them was a school for the children of Žaliakalnis’ residents (now Gediminas Sports and Health Promotion Gymnasium
Another huge building in the city centre was completed during the years of occupation
And although the building of the primary school on what was the Ugniagesių Street then
was destined to become a new home for future musicians (now Kaunas Juozas Gruodis Conservatory
its facades are still decorated with panels containing municipality’s initials: KMS
They can also be seen on some schools of the 1930s
PHOTO: Asmeninio albumo nuotr. Here’s a list of great locations that will provide an incredible view of the sky once the clock strikes twelve on New Year’s Eve
This year, Kaunas has prepared a wide and diverse entertainment variety for New Year’s Eve
From parties with dances until dawn to cosy atmosphere with live music perfect for families
to make the night of the December 31 genuinely memorable
you’ll also need a perfect spot to watch the fireworks
Here’s a list of great locations that will provide an incredible view of the sky once the clock strikes twelve on New Year’s Eve
Aleksotas observation deck is popular with tourists and locals all year round
This is the spot where people come to take their wedding
graduation and other essential pictures and there‘s a good reason for that
you get to see the most beautiful part of Kaunas – the river Nemunas and the lovely Old Town
There was no question that this observation deck located in Šilainiai also had to make the list
you get to see a stunning view of Vilijampolė
With the sight of hundreds of tiny colourful houses
this might be one of the most romantic spots in Kaunas
Milikoniai hill observation deck gets most visitors in the evening during sunsets and when the city lights up in warm yellow light
The Owl hill is one of the most unique places in Kaunas
it‘s one of the highest points in the city
This brings us to the most distinctive feature of this hill – back in 1924
it was adorned with 108 sculptures of owls created by Vincas Grybas
About 60 of those sculptures you can still see today (you can read more about the hill here)
if you like the sound of beautiful panoramic views of Kaunas city Centre
and Vilijampolė in the company of almost 100-years-old owls – The Owl hill should be the perfect New Year’s Eve spot for you
If you want to greet the new year in an energetic crowd
Here you will not only get to see some of the most incredible fireworks (there will be a special zone in the square dedicated just for that) bus also hear some of the biggest names of Lithuanian electronic/dance music scene in a concert “Cosmic New Year’s Eve”
Probably the most popular picnic spot in the summer – the Confluence park
does not lose its charm in the winter season
The confluence point of the two biggest Lithuanian rivers Nemunas and Neris is usually called the birthplace of Kaunas
Thousands of romantic dates have taken place in the Confluence park
if you’re looking for an idyllic spot to watch the fireworks and celebrate New Year’s Eve with a loved one
even though the park is located on the side of the Old Town
you could also try heading to the other side of Neris (Vilijampolė)
From there you would get a view of the park itself
and a grandiose sight of the sky lit with fireworks
We started the conversation by talking about the rules of photographing that prevail in Andrius’ routine
“I use the drone only during sunrise or sunset
the sun starts to rise only a few minutes before 4 am
sometimes it is difficult to remain awake until sunset
weather forecasts are an essential part of the photographic process
the first snow completely changes the image of the city
and then he often manages to make the most beautiful shots
For those interested in aerial photography
the photographer recommends checking some very important news
a new regulation has entered into force in the EU
“In order to use a drone that is heavier than 250 grams (the heavier the drone
the more requirements there are) and has a camera
the owner has to register it in a common system.” In Lithuania
the Transport Competence Agency is responsible for this
I didn’t hesitate to ask about a few places that were relevant to me
the route from which the towers of Kaunas Old Town can best be seen on foot would be called Old Town – Aleksotas Observation Deck
you should gradually walk towards the Aleksotas observation deck (it is recommended to take the stairs)
and then continue walking on the Amerikos Lietuvių Street until you reach the stairs of the Garliava Trail
you will see a completely different panorama of the city
The Nemunas and the Nevėžis confluence is for those who miss silence and a breathtaking landscape
but also many small paths near the Nemunas
Andrius recommended starting the route from Lampėdžiai forest
And now it’s time for the carefully selected routes of the photographer
The 10 km long route may not be very popular
Although each area is very different from the other
I have no doubt that the view of Santaka seen from the side of the Nemunas
the landscape opening from the Česlovas Radzinauskas bridge
and the panoramic Vilijampolė district will catch the eye of every traveller
Let’s not forget the Inland Waterways Authority’s boats located on the shore or the red busses lined up in the park – these are some unusual images
You can experience this route in different ways – you can climb the stairs of Pompėja
Kaukas or Vytautas Park and immerse yourself in the search for the most interesting wooden house or just wander the small streets of Žaliakalnis
How many beautiful hues one can see on Gėlių and Minties Circle streets
The journey continues by walking around Ąžuolynas and later descending the stairs of Vincas Mykolaitis-Putinas
An almost 3-hour long route is all about getting to know Žemieji Šančiai
swans that gather next to one of the blocks of flats located near the Nemunas in winter
Another great route for those who want to get acquainted with Žemieji Šančiai
and ascend to a special place located in Aukštieji Šančiai
I would recommend wandering around Prancūzų Street and later
where you will experience a completely different view than the one seen from Tunelio Street
I would venture to say that this is the route of the future
Some places are still not comfortable for walking due to narrow or non-existent sidewalks
but this route opens up a completely different Kaunas
The Žalgiris Arena from the other side of the Nemunas
and the railway of amazing beauty surrounded by trees next to the old Jewish cemetery of Aleksotas
I think that with the emergence of new bridges from Nemunas Island
and we will be able to get there much easier
I really like this route because it offers many different panoramas of Kaunas
you can see the railway station from above and from Vytautas Park
The Owl Hill offers a panoramic view of both the new and the old town and
particularly fun descent to the Old Town via quiet Benediktinių street
This route could be called “How to get from Laisvės Alley to the Old Town via a detour.” The recently renovated Vienybės Square
and the nearby buildings are pleasing to the eye
you can go down Kalpoko street to the embankment of the Neris
You can start the journey at the end of Jonava Street and choose a route of the desired length
which is on the opposite side of Kleboniškis Forest
A short walk to get acquainted with Kaunas parks: the newly arranged Draugystės and Kalniečių parks
afoto.eu
The architect’s personal archive has accumulated an impressive collection of not only different versions of one or the other project but also expressive urban visions for various parts of Kaunas (and beyond)
Palys’ historical knowledge but also his great ability to sense the city and its principles
Due to the efforts of architect Audrys Karalius and architecture historian Almantas Bružas
the exhibition of the architect’s works and visions Palys’ City
7 Dimensions of Identity will be open in the Kaunas Picture Gallery until April
In addition to that the exhibition also presents another side of J
I asked the professor some questions about the city
It is said that most architects can be divided into two types – artistic and technical – based on their work methods
Your works often showcase the ability to look at the task creatively
taking into consideration the feeling and history of the place
and my friends also say: “How come you are like this and not like that.” My father often said
I only like pure style.” My whole environment was pre-war
The publications at home as well: I flipped through magazines about aviation
and radio stations; I was very attracted to technology
But not for cartwheels and not for candlesticks [laughs]
and axles – I was already drawn to these things
perhaps that is why my architecture is not necessarily techno but close to it
When my daughter Ieva and I designed the hangar of the Military Rescue Post in Aleksotas
I really didn’ t want the architect’s hand to be visible there
but just a good object that would fit near the airfield
I often think that almost all architects look at everything through their own prism
and I have repeatedly said: don’t look at your whole life through those architect’s glasses
but uniqueness must also be protected so that the city does not lose its recognizable face
This attitude was probably also reflected in the knowledge you imparted to architecture students
I used to say to the students: when you walk down the street
you should observe and question through the lens of an architect how things look
just like a detective sits in a bar and instinctively analyzes people
But sometimes I encourage students to disconnect from architectural thinking and simply look at an object: a river is flowing
Maybe it’s enough and there is absolutely no need for an architect to intervene and start architecting
I was just recently giving a lecture on this
showing the quays of Budapest and other cities where you can see
That’s the whole secret and it’s all the fun
And if an architect comes and tidies everything up
It is dull to walk by glass buildings that a colleague of mine designed
I want to see something that neither you nor I have made
to see what has naturally been done before us
I can see how those seven dimensions – that became the axis of the exhibition – of Rimvydas Palys are slowly being revealed…
The code of the place is very important to me
Juozapavičiaus Avenue towards the Nemunas like the branches of a tree
You can’t just build a five-story house there
recognize the place and understand what fits there better and what doesn’t fit at all
A city is such a concrete place where you see pavement
All those little things create a mood – joy… or not necessarily
Perhaps the architectural or artistic quality of those individual elements is not so important as their very presence
Maybe sometimes it is worth looking not only globally
if there are no exceptional houses on the street
and an ancient massive fence covered with climbing plants
perhaps there are several simple interwar period houses
And you feel like in a fairy tale on that street
I used to say to my students: you must notice these things
and think about them – they form the fabric of the city
the city is a combination of everything – it has technology and noise
but uniqueness must also be protected so that the city does not lose its recognizable face.
You designed many of your most famous buildings as early as the year of Independence
but you started your career in design institutes
Before getting stuck working in Komprojektas for a long time
you had to work in many of these institutions in Kaunas
It would be interesting to hear about the beginning of Rimvydas Palys’ career
But I’m a true native of Kaunas; I would walk around Kaunas built before the war and I adored it
In Žemprojektas they told me: if you come right away
So I got to design the settlement of Duokiškis
Algimantas Miškinis worked at the institute
He was a true urbanist who was broad-minded and understood the structure of all those small towns
I somehow intuitively captured the square of the town
had a corresponding structure: sloping roofs
the ends facing the square; I drew the silhouettes
to which I was invited by Ramūnas Kamaitis
And Miškinis says: talented but a bit lazy [laughs]
Soon they asked me to go to the Institute of Monument Restoration and Design
where I got acquainted with the principles of restoration
And Komprojektas had more diversity: a bit of restoration
Vilniaus street reconstruction project was also born in Komprojektas
I had an idea – to return the debt to Kaunas
it didn’t have many of the things those other cities had
Neither good squares nor beautiful cobble-stone roads
And I thought to myself: this could be performed
they didn’t exist but maybe they could have
but I decided not to do everything in one style
it used to be that if you designed an object
then the fence had to be of the same style
the elements of the old town turned out like this: consciously close to romanticism but at least the phone booth looked like a phone booth
a streetlamp looked like a streetlamp and an advertising pole as an advertising pole
I had designed many different versions of lamps and the ones that are standing now – well
Which object did you like working on the most?
it was probably the small forms of Vilniaus Street
and I easily managed to coordinate with the chief artist of the city
Everything went very smoothly with the aviation hangar as well
The work with the municipality during the construction of the M
and I can only say good things about the city’s chief engineers
It took so long until I was allowed to speak to the heads of the factory; everything was done remotely… I design something
I was able to go there and talk to them and everything ended well
the warehouse itself was just a reinforced concrete frame covered with standard ugly panels
I proposed covering it with red bricks with concrete strips
takes up an important part of your life and probably half of the exhibition
How do you choose what to add to your collection
How did you select the pieces for the exhibition?
What ended up in the exhibition was decided by Audrys Karalius
He told me to bring the things that would confuse the visitors so that they would not immediately realize what they were looking at [laughs]
As I mentioned that interest seems to have appeared in my childhood
there was a large area near 7th Fort where American equipment left over from the war was stored
Objects that someone threw away or gave away to the scrapyard
The first thing that attracts me is the working mechanism
Especially if the item is well made – its shape
Every small detail and every screw is very aesthetic…
Thanking the interviewer for the conversation
I invite the readers to visit the exhibition
I would like to protect you from bigger “spoilers”
but I guarantee that you will have a memorable experience
looking at the city through the eyes of J.R
Palys; the eyes that are very Kaunas-like and artistically and technically musical
Even the technology collection (called “the machinas” in the style of A
Here you will see the original gong that invited people to the film screenings in Romuva and a sextant used at the Vytautas Magnus University during the interwar period and fragments of research laboratory equipment designed by Vytautas Landsbergis-Žemkalnis
And let’s not forget all the architectural jazz
perimeter environment; a glass tunnel connecting the city center with the zoomed-in Nemunas Island and the revived slopes of Freda
the synergy of entertainment and industrial shipping in the old port of Freda
the transformation of the railway station into a terminal that would not put a European metropolis to shame… I leave you with the architect’s words that he uttered while looking at the extensive collection of urban visions on display: “I called these – urban papyruses … I simply drew the way I thought it would look
perhaps detaching myself from reality a bit
so that the city could get closer to water
Sometimes I even get sick of myself… well
This exhibition is part of the ongoing project “The Year of Palys: 7 Dimensions of the City”
The project is developed by the editorial team of the architectural e-magazine Pilotas.LT.
The project is partly funded by the Lithuanian Council for Culture.
The project is also supported by the architectural bureaus DO Architects
Bulthaup and the architectural e-magazine PILOTAS.LT
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)