November is not all about the Day of the Dead
The event calendar in Guadalajara and Lake Chapala Ribera for November is wide and varied to satisfy every craving — from wine festivals to book fairs
To help you stay entertained in the run up to the holiday season
we’ve selected the most exciting events in Guadalaja and Ajijic (and Tequila) to keep everyone in the family entertained
The Autonomous University of Guadalajara (UAG) will celebrate Mexico’s Day of the Dead with a festival featuring music
and sensory activities inspired by Mictlán
the souls of the dead had to travel four years and overcome a series of obstacles before entering Mictlán
where they were welcomed to the afterlife by the god and goddess of death
Tickets? Free of charge
Bosque Los Colomos, Guadalajara’s largest urban park
will host four whimsical night tours for the whole family in celebration of the Day of the Dead
Picture the wood’s pathways aglow with flickering candles
the aromatic smell of copal incense and glowing cempasúchil flowers all around
the Cardboard and Toy Fair brings together some 300 small businesses and artisans in a traditional tianguis (open-air market) setting
you’ll find everything from cardboard figures to sugar skulls
papel picado (engraved paper) clay figures
and a wide variety of decorative items related to the Day of the Dead
Grupo Frontera, Mexico’s musical group ensemble of the moment, will offer a concert in Guadalajara as part of its Jugando a Que No Pasa Nada (Let’s Pretend Nothing Is Happening) international tour. The band grew in popularity thanks to its cumbias norteñas, a subgenre of norteño music within the broader category of Mexican regional music genre
Tickets? Here
the town of Tequila (58 km west of Guadalajara) will host a Day of the Dead festival
Dubbed Tequilero Hasta Los Huesos (Tequila Lover to the Bones)
The event will also exhibit tequila brands that offer Day of the Dead editions
so does Guadalajara’s traditional Fiestas de Octubre
DJ Steve Aoki is set to perform at the Auditorio Benito Juárez
The palenque is an intimate arena known for its lively concert ambiance
It’s a staple of the festival and a must-visit attraction for anyone looking for an authentic concert experience in Mexico
General admission to the Fiestas de Octubre includes free entry to the show from the stands
Access may be limited if the auditorium reaches full capacity
Tickets? Here
the Art Masters Fair brings together artisans from across the country to exhibit and promote their work
features classic to contemporary pieces that range from fine jewelry to wood
visitors can also attend one of the many artists’ presentations
More information: Here
A post shared by VinArt Ajijic (@vinartajijic)
Picture yourself surrounded by lush greenery
sipping wine and savoring gourmet food as you gaze out over Lake Chapala
That’s the setting at the Vinart Ajijic wine festival
and an impressive array of wines from 40 prestigious wineries
a complimentary drink and a ticket to the after party
Nimue Marina Residence & Hotel Boutique
Tickets? Here
the world’s first theme park inspired by Day of the Dead
With colorful and immersive attractions that mesmerize kids and adults alike
live music and a wide variety of food stalls
the park aims to educate visitors about the importance of the celebration
Tickets? Here
Most towns in Mexico have a patron saint or a virgin who is celebrated every year with an elaborate multi-day festival
Ajijic hosts a nine-day-long festival filled with music and shows
The fiesta patronal (patron’s party) features daily processions through Ajijic’s colorful streets
Gabriela Solis is a Mexican lawyer turned full-time writer
She was born and raised in Guadalajara and covers business
lifestyle and travel for Mexico News Daily
You can follow her lifestyle blog Dunas y Palmeras
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The city of San Miguel Allende sucks all the air out of the room when the conversation turns to expatriate life in Mexico
While San Miguel Allende has been garnering lots of awards for its quality of life and general wonderfulness
the tiny town of Ajijic (pronounced Aah-hee-HEEK) is developing into another expat paradise for citizens from the U.S
Ajijic is in the state of Jalisco on the shores of Lake Chapala
which at 417 square miles is the largest lake in Mexico
Ajijic is about a half-hour drive from Guadalajara’s international airport
This positions the town close enough to the big city benefits of Guadalajara
while still being tucked away from the urban sprawl in a unique natural setting
Imagine a huge lake with fisherman out on the water in pangas (small boats) casting for carp
At the shoreline are snowy egrets doing their own fishing
Someone in Ajijic must have made a concerted effort to protect the town’s trees since the streets are lined with huge specimens
including palm trees mixed in with pines and flowering jacarandas
The compact town of Ajijic has narrow streets with rough cobblestones
such as a Volkswagen Beetle festooned with stuck-on flowers
or a distant sound system playing Creedence or the Stones
Many of the walls of the town are decorated with colorful murals in a range of styles
A note about the cobblestone streets and in some places cobblestone sidewalks: If you plan to do any amount of walking at all
you’ll get a lot more mileage if you wear sturdy footwear and forgo the high heels
The streets are lined with colorful houses and small boutiques and galleries
Since expats make up about 50% of the population during the winter season
visitors will find a greater variety of shops and restaurants than they would in a typical small Mexican town
there’s the Simply Thai restaurant; Pasta Trenta; Ajijic Tango
featuring Argentinian steaks; and Tabarka Restaurante
Drop into Ajijic on a Wednesday to experience the weekly tianguis
There’s also a mix of food vendors selling traditional Mexican food at rock-bottom prices
My breakfast of two excellent carne asada tacos and a soft drink cost less than $2
I met a friendly Canadian walking his four dogs
When his wife was diagnosed with chronic fatigue syndrome several years ago they were advised to find a sunnier climate
They first tried expatriate life in Panama
They heard about Ajijic and fell in love with the town immediately and made the decision to move down permanently
“It’s one sunny day after another
When people ask me if it’s safe I tell them
‘I’ve been attacked by mosquitoes once or twice
Ruthie and Charles Baker moved to Ajijic eight years ago
“Most expats aren’t going to cook a whole tray of brownies for themselves,” said Ruthie Baker
“But they love coming in here for a cupcake or some of our custom chocolates.” The Bakers donate the profits from their store to a local orphanage
a desire to give back and help out the local Mexican community seems to be prevalent among the expats
I’d recommend Ajijic as being a great day trip from Guadalajara
Those who want to soak up the town’s unique ambiance and maybe even weigh settling down in Ajijic would be well served by a couple of overnights
The choice of a hotel comes down to what kind of experience a visitor is seeking
If they want to be right in town with easy access to shopping
they should choose one of the boutique hotels
If they want a break from the town at the end of the day
the Hotel Real de Chapala is a good choice
It’s located about a 10-minute walk from town in an upscale residential neighborhood on the shores of the lake
the two-story Hotel Real de Chapala is the biggest and most modern hotel in town
this drawback is offset by the hotel's beautiful landscaped grounds
great variety of birds and excellent onsite restaurant
Some moments during my stay I felt as though I’d stumbled into a retirement home for energetic seniors
the malecon was busy with gray-haired gents and ladies either running or powerwalking the length of the strip
it seemed like the Coffé Black & White restaurant was a pulse point for people to exchange hellos
Living in a town like Ajijic could suit some seniors better than settling into a typical stateside retirement home
In addition to a beautiful natural setting that encourages residents to get out and enjoy the day
senior expats living in Ajijic will stay sharp rubbing up against the unfamiliar edges of Mexican culture
ShareSaveBETAThis is a BETA experience. opt-out hereMoneyRetirementWhat So Many Americans Find So Appealing About Retiring To Ajijic / Lake Chapala, MexicoByChuck Bolotin
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
Chuck Bolotin relates his experiences living in Mexico with his wife
Jet Metier and Chuck Bolotin at Lake Chapala garden
(Short interlude for the geographical and etymological purists among us: Ajijic-- pronounced “Ah-hee-heek”-- is a little town on the shores of Lake Chapala
with lots of expat Americans and Canadians
While there are several other towns around the lake where expats live
for sake of simplicity and because Ajijic is the best known
we’ll just refer to the whole area as Ajijic
Virtually everything about Ajijic is moderate and pleasant
Chuck Bolotin walking dogs on Ajijic malecon
Ajijic has about the same latitude as Puerto Vallarta or the Western Sahara
so if it were at sea level and all other factors being equal
But Ajijic is not at sea level—it’s located in the Mexican Highlands at about a mile elevation (the same as Denver)
Ajijic is on Lake Chapala (the largest lake in Mexico)
which moderates the temperatures even further
It’s virtually never too hot or too cold in the Ajijic area
with average highs in the 70s and sometimes 80s and lows in the 50s
which is why the hills get so green and the waterfalls form during this time of year
almost always at night and virtually never for more than a few hours
Average total yearly rainfall is about 36 inches
Jet Metier at Chinese restaurant in Ajijic
giving you lots of opportunities to interact with people from other cultures
Lots (but not all) the people in Ajijic will speak English in some form or another
The result: if you are still in the very early “Learning Spanish Phase,” you’ll get along just fine
with just the right amount of pressure and incentive to learn and experience something new
at a pace which is almost entirely within your control
Neither of the two main characters in Green Acres would be completely satisfied with Ajijic
If you’re like the Eva Gabor character and prefer to live in a big city like New York or Chicago
if you prefer to live way out in the country like the Eddie Albert character
if you were to add up all the towns along Lake Chapala in the Ajijic area from Chapala to Jocotepec
you would probably find about 120,000 people
with no one town having more than about 20,000
The Ajijic area has two small golf courses
less than an hour away from Ajijic is Guadalajara
you will find several high-end shopping centers complete with enough Gucci
Louis Vuitton and other luxury shopping to invigorate Ms
There’s also the Guadalajara international airport
which is less than 45 minutes away from Ajijic
you’ll also find Home Depot and Costco; all this not in Ajijic
you’ll find huge stretches of agricultural land
where little farms intersperse with huge corporate facilities from Dole and others amongst gently rolling
In addition to these and other moderate characteristics
Ajijic has a few that aren’t moderate at all
Ajijic exists on a relatively narrow finger of land sandwiched between impressive mountains and a large lake
Those fortunate enough to have a home with some elevation on the mountains are treated daily to spectacular views of the lake and of the volcano on the far shore
The weather and geography in Ajijic combine in just the right proportions to give Ajijic a lush
but without the oppressive heat that normally accompanies such places
While in the dry season the hills are mostly brown
glistening and with the aroma of fresh rain in the jungle
You can hike all year round in the Ajijic area
Unless you’ve lived in the Ajijic area and been able firsthand to do a rough “apples to apples” comparison to the US
it’s a bit difficult to fully appreciate how inexpensive it is to live in Ajijic
when compared with other areas in the real world
beautiful places with a low cost of living
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we stopped for lunch along the freeway in central Illinois at a place called Amish Buffet
It tasted like what my grandmother used to make
That’s how we feel now that we’ve moved to Ajijic
Mexico: We’ve found the best that the buffet has to offer
living in a variety of countries for six weeks to two months
We had been reading International Living for several years and attended a 2016 event in New Orleans
So we embarked on the journey with lots of good advice and tips from those who had already sampled the world’s buffet
Mexico has everything we were looking for—great climate
and proximity to family and friends in the U.S
Now it feels like we’re finally home, in the Lake Chapala area south of Guadalajara
Even in December high temperatures are in the low 70s F
Overnight lows are in the low- to mid-50s F
so I toss on a sweatshirt for my daily sunrise jog along Ajijic’s malecon (boardwalk) with its amazing lake and mountain views
Grocery and discount store employees often don’t speak English
but they usually understand a little of my basic Spanish
and they work hard to help me find what I need
We’ve already made many new friends and have become involved in a great English-speaking church that offers plenty of activities and does lots of community outreach
The Lake Chapala Society is also an outstanding resource
and they offer classes that help expats adjust to living here
Today my wife and I went to the weekly street market—the tianguis—and brought home two big shopping bags full of veggies for about $14
At my favorite tortilleria I get a stack of 20 to 25 of the best corn tortillas I’ve ever tasted (still warm) for about 35 cents
Prices are a little higher in grocery stores
two-bathroom townhome one block off the lake for $1,400 a month
and that includes a twice weekly housekeeping service
While you can spend more for luxury homes with stunning views
there are also smaller places that rent for less than $1,000 a month
We can walk to the main plaza and to some excellent restaurants
where we’ve paid a little over $10 on lunch for two and about $30 for dinner with wine
We can get back fairly quickly if we need to
and family and friends can come visit us without an expensive eight-hour plane ride
A few of our friends have already asked if our guest room is ready
“When are you coming back?” We expect to receive our Mexican permanent resident cards a few weeks from now
and we think it’s the best place on the buffet
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MexicoOwner Ismat Jivani first visited Ajijic as a consultant; a visit that later inspired the first Black-owned restaurant in this Mexican city
Mitti Hicks•Mar 11
Gossip’s Kitchen is the only Black-owned restaurant in Ajijic
Owner Ismat Jivani has traveled the world working as a consultant to help people launch businesses. He has an extensive background in the hospitality industry
His first visit to Ajijic was with his consulting firm to help a woman launch her restaurant
he didn’t know the visit would inspire something more
“I fell in love with Ajijic and decided to stay,” Jivani tells Travel Noire
Jivani lived and worked in Toronto for 24 years but is originally from Nairobi. He says Ajijic reminded him of home
“The weather was the first thing that caught me,” he says
It’s about 5,000 feet above sea level here and pretty much the same in Nairobi
Jivani loves Nairobi but doesn’t want to be far from his children
He opened Gossip’s Kitchen in 2010 as an ode to Kenya and his travels
Mexico is the 14th country he’s lived in or traveled to since leaving home
The restaurant gets its name from the rumors circulating after he left his successful consulting company behind
“I was going to originally call it Tamu Tamu
which means delicious in my native tongue of Swahili,” he says
The menu and overall ambiance inside reflect the warm and nostalgic feeling people experience in their most comforting spaces
I often heard what people missed about home
I asked four team members what food they missed from their home now that they live in Mexico.”
Thanks to his friends and team members living in Ajijic
“It’s a small restaurant close to the highway that’s great for people-watching,” says Jivani
and what we offer you won’t find anywhere else in Mexico because of the African flavors we incorporate.”
Ajijic is approximately 30 minutes away from Guadalajara
Travelers will find Gossip’s Kitchen at Carr Jocotepec-Chapala 36
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Experienced travelers know that areas where expats resettle often have a unique vibe and tend to be especially interesting for visitors
These places can be particularly fun for tourists who imagine themselves moving abroad one day
but one that is often overlooked is the town of Ajijic (pronounced ah-hee-HEEK)
which is located on the shores of Lake Chapala
30,000 expats live in the Lake Chapala area
about a 45-minute drive from the city of Guadalajara
where palm trees stand side by side with evergreens
Lake Chapala is on the town’s southern border
and the Sierra Madre mountain range provides a backdrop to the north
The heart of Ajijic is its wonderful lakeside malecon (boardwalk)
where residents tend to congregate to socialize
Virtually everything in town is within walking distance
The roads and even some sidewalks are cobblestone
so sturdy walking shoes are highly recommended for visitors
Stores range from those providing essentials to boutiques offering Mexico-centric goods
including embroidered blouses and silver jewelry
The expat community has influenced the town’s dining scene
visitors will find restaurants serving Thai
advise clients to drop into Ajijic on a Wednesday
when the town has its weekly tianguis (open-air market)
There’s a mix of booths selling fresh produce
It’s also a good opportunity to sample local Mexican cuisine at bargain prices from the market’s food vendors
Ajijic makes a nice daytrip from Guadalajara
but some visitors might choose to stay a couple of nights
There are lots of boutique hotels right in town
including Estrellita’s B&B Hotel and Hotel Casa de Abuela
Hotel Real de Chapala offers an option away from the main activity of the town
although it is still within walking distance
The 85-room property is probably the most modern in town
although high-end travelers might find it a bit dated
Hotel Real de Chapala’s strengths are its lovely setting on the shore of the lake and its first-rate restaurant
Savvy agents would be wise to suggest a visit to Ajijic to their Mexico-loving customers
Not only will clients be exposed to a new destination
but they may even end up buying property there
leading to multiple return trips — which could mean more business for the agent
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Skulls cover the walls of this Mexican primary school
they memorialize the dead who once called the town home
The towns on the shores of Chapala, Mexico's largest lake
are home to a sizable population of mostly older North American expats
a United States writer who popularized Ajijic north of the border in the 1940s
they pursue their ideal of "the Mexican Dream," often forming community groups and grassroots organizations to maintain their lifestyle and the vibe of their new hometowns
One of the clearest examples of the results of these efforts is Ajijic
This small town is now recognized in the area for its bohemian
arts-oriented atmosphere and is well-known for the many murals that adorn its walls
a majority of which are made by artists from the region and throughout the country
Perhaps the most notable and atypical of these artworks is El Muro de las Calaveras ("The Wall of Skulls") made by Ajijilteco artist Efrén González in 2016
Also responsible for many of the painted murals in town
González was inspired by the pre-Columbian tzompantli to create this tiled collage of clay craniums
Tzompantlis were walls or palisades where the skulls of people voluntarily sacrificed or captured in war would be displayed as part of the belief systems of many Mesoamerican cultures, from Aztecs to the Maya. Human sacrifice was so important to these cultures that the tzompantlis themselves were often carved into the rock of their temples for posterity, as in Tenochtitlán's Templo Mayor
Commissioned by local authorities partly on the behest of expat organizations
González's work on a wall of the Marcos Castellanos Primary School is inspired by the imagery but not necessarily the human sacrifice cosmogony of tzompantlis
The thousand or so skulls that decorate this wall are each labeled with the name of an Ajijic resident who has died
About half of the people memorialized in clay skull form have Spanish names
the other represents the town's large expat population with names originating from all over the world
showcasing the role of death as one of humanity's great unifiers
The inside of each clay skull can hold a candle or light and these are only lit on and around the dates of Day of the Dead
If you want to see this light show it is recommended to visit during nighttime at the end of October/start of November
visitors can place mosaic tiles to help restore a medieval mural
Skulls and skeletons are omnipresent in this church dedicated to souls trapped in purgatory
This giant mural of Santa Muerte in downtown São Paulo reminds passersby of their own mortality
A medieval fresco which reminds visitors that death will come for us all
5,000 skulls in memorial to those killed by the Khmer Rouge
perhaps no piece is more representative than this brutal work featuring the town’s distinctive black clay pottery
A posthumous honor at the iconic game show host's former high school
Photographs of the faces of the town's dead cover the walls of this small Italian church
So what exactly is a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town) in Mexico nowadays
the federal government began a wildly successful program to promote quaint historic towns as weekend getaways
What started as a handful of them near Mexico City has grown to 132 in 20 years
but does it deserve to be ranked with the likes of Pátzcuaro
Two main issues exist with the designation: the first is that Ajijic is not a stereotypical Mexican town with centuries-old architecture dominating the center
what stands out is its cosmopolitan atmosphere and a very visible foreign population that has transformed it considerably
There are only three buildings in town with historic significance; the rest were demolished long ago as development filled Ajijic with 78 hotels
136 restaurants and bars serving contemporary Mexican and international cuisines
All this obscures that the town was officially founded in 1531 and was a fishing village for far longer than that
Ajijic is one of many small towns in the area with gorgeous views of Lake Chapala
the lakeside pier and the colorful main square are its main attractions
especially with weekenders from nearby Guadalajara
Mostly American snowbirds and others have been attracted to move to the area’s near-perfect climate since the 1940s
The Ministry of Tourism estimated before the pandemic that as many as 20,000 foreigners currently make the town their home at least part of the year
They have also repaired and improved a number of public structures and spaces
“People were saying that Ajijic would never become a Pueblo Mágico no matter how hard they tried and how good it might be — that as a ‘gringo village’ it has been way too transformed.”
The second issue with the designation of Ajijic as a Pueblo Mágico is that transportation and other infrastructure are nowhere near adequate to handle the number of visitors the town receives now
never mind whatever new influx the designation might bring in the future
Ajijic sits on a small strip of land wedged between Chupinaya Mountain and Lake Chapala
This fact causes bottlenecks in the town’s center; residents complain about traffic even during the low season
with new lake-view homes being built ever higher
This was a principal cause of recent flooding in the town proper — because vegetation had been stripped away for development
with no updated planning documents since 2011
Despite the town having a wealthy population
there are still residents who live without basic city services
The naming of Ajijic as a Pueblo Mágico came as something of a surprise to residents as the effort was driven entirely by the outgoing mayoral administration with no input from the community
These authorities succeeded because the requirements for designation have been changed over the years
towns had to have qualities like architecture
history and visible manifestations of historic culture
along with specific requirements for tourist and other infrastructure
founding president of the National Coordination of Pueblos Mágicos Committees
those requirements were necessary at first to consolidate the brand
The first changes to the requirements came after five years
when infrastructure criteria were relaxed in order to allow more towns to get the designation
including those related to architecture and other obvious attractions
as the program became a “social development through tourism” program
the formerly strict requirements favored towns that already had tourism and the resources to pave and widen roads
bury electrical lines and do other improvements
This left out more marginalized communities from consideration
marginalized does not really describe most of Ajijic
filled with second homes and retirees with the money and time to spend on community improvement projects
it is this international community that is part of the official rationale for making Ajijic a Pueblo Mágico
says Greg Custer of the Lake Chapala Society
the oldest operating organization for expats in Mexico
You would think that having a prominent foreign population would work against designation
but Mendoza says that other communities with significant numbers of foreign residents
opinions about Pueblo Mágico status are highly mixed: those highly in favor of the designation seem to be business owners
although resident John Sillyards says that many of the local artists “are thrilled.”
Resident Daniel Houck worries that several foreign residents are not aware of the potential ramifications
Many residents and others worry that the inclusion of towns like Ajijic devalues the brand and means that the approval process is now all about politics
what is important now is to decide how the community deals with the designation
One immediate challenge is to get tourists to visit more than just the pier and the main square
The town needs to diversify its attractions into more parts of town in order to ease traffic and get the benefits of Magical Town status to more areas
Mendoza agrees that community involvement is the only way to make the Pueblo Mágico designation beneficial
A citizens’ committee to address the coming challenges has been formed
and only time will tell if Ajijic will become a “successful” Magical Town or not
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
when coupled with a very affordable standard of living
It’s a charming village offering art and cultural events and a warm and welcoming atmosphere between the Mexicans and expats
At any time of the day or night you can hear the clop
clop of horses traversing the cobblestone streets
I have found that retiring is not the end of the line
I have become both a teacher and a student
I am busier now than when I was working a nine-to-five job
The difference being that I love what I am doing
Painting has become my passion along with teaching English as a second language to Mexican adults who want to advance in their chosen careers
The Lake Chapala Society is primarily a meeting place for expats
In a very congenial and inviting atmosphere
newcomers to the area can have their questions answered with all kinds of helpful information
There is an annual registration fee of $38
There are also art and chess classes for children
My husband enjoys the bridge group that meets twice per week
There are many charitable organizations that welcome volunteers
The local population is so appreciative of any help that is offered
I look forward to the Wednesday market where I buy fruit and vegetables that have just been picked and delivered from the surrounding farms
I can’t remember ever before paying as little as 25 cents for an avocado or 50 cents for a pound of tomatoes
There is another market every Tuesday that offers a great variety of cooked food that is both healthy and delicious
There are many restaurants that cater to all tastes and are inexpensive by U.S
La Sima del Copal sits at the top of a mountain peak and offers the most beautiful view of the lake at sunset
there are less expensive restaurants that are also very good
It is customary for Mexican families and expats to stroll along the malecon (boardwalk) on Sunday afternoon
our family and friends back in the States are curious about how we live
Our first group of visitors arrived last week
I thought it would be fun to rent horses and take a leisurely ride up into the mountains which surround the village
I asked the guide if it is an easy ride with wide paths
our guide and horses arrived to pick us up for our little adventure
Riding through the village on our way to the mountains was delightful
As we started up the mountain trail things took quite a turn
Narrow paths that were barely wide enough for a horse
hairpin turns and steep precipices went on as far as the eye could see
Riding through the mountains of Ajijic leads to some beautiful scenery
Our next group of visitors is due to arrive in two weeks
I think this time we will enjoy nature by sitting on our patio
and looking at the spectacular flora and fauna all around us with the majestic mountains looming safely in the background
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“It’s in the tropics somewhere between the Port of Indecision and Southwest of Disorder
but no parallels of latitude or longitude mark the spot exactly
You don’t have to be a navigator to get there
embrace life at “a new latitude,” the promise of their spiritual guru
a 76 year-old billionaire who continues to tour
and inspire millions of baby boomers longing for life’s perfect sunset
Buffett’s multiple businesses include a real estate collection of lifestyle communities for 55 and over
Latitude Margaritaville International is set to open on the northwest shore of Lake Chapala
This new Buffett venture will soon offer “Parrot Heads” (Buffet’s followers) a new roost in Jalisco state
whose fame with foreigners dates to the 1940s
A new twist on the overseas living experience is now upon us
Are Lake Chapala and the rest of Mexico ready to welcome Margaritaville to the homeland of margaritas
Lake Chapala’s one attempt at a United States-style senior care model (formerly marketed as “La Pueblita”) went into receivership in 2022
the victim of the pandemic and a marketing pitch that never caught on
Latitude Margaritaville International and its partner Levy Holding will take over the ill-fated
200-unit facility of unfinished condos and casitas
“With the success and demand for Margaritaville-branded residential communities in the U.S.
we’re always looking for licensing opportunities and destinations that are compelling and dynamic
Lake Chapala was exactly that,” according to Jim Wiseman
president of development at Margaritaville
the parent company of the Latitude Margaritaville real estate collection
and with its diverse offerings and incredible climate
the area brings together elements of both active and laid-back lifestyles
and a dedication to community – all a major part of the way of life at Latitude Margaritaville International.”
The project will open for sales this summer
with move-ins happening in the spring of 2024
Pastel-hued renderings also give us some clues about how the company will recruit “Parrot Heads” to Lake Chapala
An updated artist’s rendition of the existing pool area features giant macaws
and Jimmy Buffett-inspired slogans and affirmations scrawled on walls and awnings
Who wants another abandoned real estate eyesore
But bringing the Margaritaville brand to Lake Chapala – the birthplace of overseas living in Mexico (a heritage we lakesiders proudly embrace) – has some of us wondering how this will all go down
Buffet’s Margaritaville is the first corporate brand to parachute into the lakeside senior living landscape
and it will certainly impact the surrounding area
Will it further accelerate our community’s transformation from a lakeside village to something else
It wouldn’t be fair to lay blame at Margaritaville’s door for Ajijic’s growing challenges: rickety roads
That blame could be placed on local authorities for abandoning any attempt at urban planning or growth impact abatement
Also responsible are foreign-born “invaders” who come here with U.S
and attitudes that foster what are essentially two community circles
the Mexicans and the outsiders; sometimes polarized
Will the Margaritaville brand bring new residents with global views and attitudes congruent with making Mexico a better place to live
Will Margaritaville’s “55 and better” communities start popping up across Mexico
this time bringing a Floridian vibe to the more muted
raises living standards for our Mexican neighbors
and helps Mexico attract the inevitably growing share of Americans who can’t afford to retire up north
I don’t personally know any “Parrot Heads”
They could help make the places they live in more prosperous
will Mexico’s quest to attract foreign capital create another island of exclusivity that’s disassociated from the community’s needs – especially in a town like Ajijic
it’s a homecoming of sorts for the drink that inspires followers to embrace “life on the other side.” I’m keeping an eye out for my “lost shaker of salt.” And hoping for the best
Writer Greg Custer (www.mexicoforliving.com) has worked in Mexico tourism for over 40 years
He’s lived lakeside in Ajijic since 2015 and helps Americans explore Mexico for living opportunities
Ajijic is widely noted as one of Mexico’s main art towns
much of that today is because of the many foreign artists and collectors
but I’ll argue that even more important are locals who have been nurtured in this direction since the mid-20th century
Ajijic was a relatively unknown place when American Neill James arrived here in 1943
she had been on several continents during the interwar period
Her foray into Mexico took a turn for the worse when she broke her leg on one volcano and got nearly buried by the ash from another
Or as she put it: “I fell on Popocatépetl; Paracutin fell on me.”
where she wrote her most famous book Dust on My Heart — which also signaled the end of her travel writing career
Her decision to spend the rest of her life there was not just the great weather
Entrepreneurial herself (necessary since she was not independently wealthy as some stories claim)
she got involved in the community to help people help themselves
first with a library and then a program to teach art to local children in 1954
The program was not just about creating art but selling it as well
She partnered with local teacher Angelita Aldana
who taught almost all of the first generations of alumni
Promising students received scholarships to an art institute in San Miguel de Allende or to the University of Guadalajara
James died in 1994 at nearly 100 years of age
and her program is still going strong at the Lake Chapala Society (LCS)
Alumni Jesús López Vega and Javier Zaragoza painted a mural honoring her and the children’s art program at the facility
which has over the years trained many local children
many of whom went on to have art careers both in Mexico and the United States
Some went to have careers in the United States
while others developed their careers in the Chapala area
where their influence is prominent in many local galleries and murals
Their art is no small part of the reason why many foreigners come to live “lakeside” and stay
One of James’s first success stories was Javier Zaragoza
a 1950s graduate who would go on to have a multi-decade commercial art career in the United States before returning to Ajijic to open a gallery
the idea of being an artist was far beyond his dreams in a tiny town
Brothers Antonio and Jesús López Vega are 1960s graduates
both fixtures in the town’s mural and gallery scenes
Both mix folkloric Mexican imagery with surrealism
heavily influenced by their grandmother’s stories about the lake and the region
having had shows in prestigious venues in Mexico City
creating murals and teaching the next generations of Ajijic’s artists
The Padilla family also has benefitted from the program
starting with early student Florentino Padilla
but seeing him paint one time inspired her
attended the program and has worked in art on and off since the 1990s
She is the only woman alumni of the program featured on the Lake Chapala Society’s mural
Perhaps Ajijic’s most famous mural was done by 1978 graduate Efrén González
Although he did the allegory on the primary school’s main facade
the main attraction is the rows upon rows of red clay skulls with names
Each of these are lit up on Day of the Dead
runs several art businesses with his sons and this past summer opened the town’s first art museum
One of the most recent success stories is Luis Enrique Martínez Hernández
even though they were poor caretakers of a hacienda in San Juan Cosalá
he was mentored by various alumni of the program and went on to exhibit with his work influenced by impressionism and surrealism
Most of the living Mexican artists in the town are linked to the school
James started the short-lived Young Painters of Ajijic
which allowed alumni and others to exhibit their work on Sunday afternoons on the property
It would be the forerunner of the current Asociación de Artistas de Ajijic/Ajijic Society of the Arts
newcomers like Goretti Chavira and Orlando Solano Álvarez work to make their name
some of which are second- and even third-generation participants
The program is still running strong at the Lake Chapala Society
with 90 registered and with at least 30 attending Saturday classes
who has taught as a volunteer here for 20 years
says that only a few stay on and show promise to be artists
the program shows children that they have value and can do whatever they like if they want it enough
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Put the two side-by-side and you might not believe they are related, never mind near-twins artistically: Antonio López Vega has a bohemian, almost-hippie look to him, while younger brother Jesús looks like an everyday local businessman
But both have been instrumental in Ajijic’s artistic history
the brothers grew up in a very different world
They were two of eleven children born to a trumpeter and carpenter and his wife in what was a rural village
both hustled to obtain resources for their family
Boys at that time roamed the lakeshore and mountains to collect firewood and find work helping local fishermen
Jesús and Antonio came to know the area like the back of their hands
discovering petroglyphs and other pre-Hispanic artifacts
This interest was bolstered by stories that their grandmothers and other elders told them of gods and legends of pre-Christian Chapala
The most important legend related to the lake goddess Michicihualli and the culebra
a rare phenomenon when a waterspout rises up from the lake then smashes into a mountainside
Such stories remain an integral part of their lives
such an environment is not exactly conducive to producing professional artists
But Ajijic had one unusual advantage: the relatively few foreign writers and artists that found their way here felt a sense of responsibility to the local population
American Neill James founded several educational programs for children in the mid-20th century
but the most successful of them by far was a program of art classes
Jesús and Antonio were among the early graduates in the 1970s and two of the reasons why Ajijic’s mural scene is still dominated by local painters
were able to start careers with what they learned from her program
received scholarships to study art at what is now called the Instituto Allende in San Miguel de Allende in Guanajuato
which led to a position sketching archaeological work at Chichén Itzá in the early 1980s
where he survived selling his work on the street
An award from the Salón Nacional got the attention of galleries and museums
as well as a stint teaching back in San Miguel de Allende
The two brothers’ lifetimes are strongly marked by the massive changes that the Lake Chapala area has experienced
Their memories include the construction of the main highway on the north shore
as well as the massive influx of foreigners since
They also remember the introduction of electricity
which they remember met with some resistance as residents did not like being unable to see the night sky
neither expressed animosity to foreigners directly to me
and a fluent Jesús even offered to do the interview in English
The aim of the brothers’ work is to preserve the essence of their childhood Chapala
rather than landscapes or other realism (a la Diego Rivera)
Their differences come in each brother’s execution
often with a halo effect around his figures
Antonio’s show various influences from his time in academia and other parts of Mexico
but their most influential work is on canvas and murals in the Chapala area
Jesús is behind one of Ajijic’s most impressive
“Birth of Teo-Michin-Cihualli,” situated in the stairwell of the town’s cultural center
It features the lake goddess in various aspects
along with several figures from Mexico’s history
Antonio’s “Mural Dedicated to Water” can be seen along a stretch of the north shore highway
Both have works in collections all over the world
thanks to Ajijic’s international population
but Antonio’s work has more reach in Mexico
They started with the stories from their childhood
as Jesús notes that “… fewer local families are passing down oral tradition to their children.”
They believe that the stories are also important to foreign residents
so that “…they can appreciate the area in which they live as a unique and vibrant place,” Jesús says
Jésus has been working for years on a project to document both the indigenous and Spanish foundations of Ajijic
with an eye toward the town’s 500th anniversary in 2031
The brothers’ documentation efforts are a combination of academic text
They are even producing their own artisanal books
They have also collected artifacts in the region
particularly concerned about the petroglyphs they discovered as children
As land development takes over more of the mountains
“… The rocks become ‘trapped’ on private property and become little more than ornamentation for owners instead of community heritage,” Antonio says
One piece that has been rescued is Tepayotzin (“sacred turtle rock” in Nahuatl)
now available to the public on Ajijic’s boardwalk
Despite all their similarities, the two men work separately in different environments. Neither inherited their parents’ property. Jesús lives and works in his Galería de Arte Axixic on the west end of town. Antonio lives at the semi-communal La Cochera Cultural Center
where he found refuge after coming back to Ajijic
Both appreciate the opportunities that James’ program gave them and pay it forward
focusing on children in neighborhoods in the mountains
Although both are successful at a time when art is booming in Ajijic
it is still difficult to make a living as more artists move in and compete for the attention and money of the same tourists and foreign residents
The brothers’ work not only maintains the prestige of Ajijic art
it also serves as a reminder of the community’s heritage as chaotic development establishes ever-more gated communities
increasing the area’s cosmopolitan and international flair
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
you likely have a passing interest in what it’s like to live in Mexico
Foreign-born residents likely live in all 32 of Mexico’s states
But some places come closer to satisfying the needs of aging baby boomers than others
My happy place is in Jalisco state, home to many of Mexico’s emblematic destinations, attractions and cultural touchstones. It’s the place that gave the world tequila, mariachis, Puerto Vallarta and Guadalajara. Jalisco also launched the Mexico-for-overseas-living movement and is home to the iconic Lake Chapala
Chapala is both a town and the name of Mexico’s largest lake
Tucked between shoreline and sierra (mountains) is a string of colorful colonial-era villages
A ribbon of lake-facing settlements and gated real estate communities has been hosting foreign-born residents for nearly 100 years
while also drawing throngs of weekend visitors from Mexico’s second-largest metropolitan area
The folks living here (a culturally diverse bunch from over 30 countries) will immediately point to the splendid weather (comfortable year-round temperatures and very low humidity)
proximity to an international airport and a bonanza of ways for active baby boomers to embrace the one question to seriously consider when moving to a foreign country: how will I spend my time
The region is a fascinating laboratory of multiculturalism — home to thousands of foreign-born year-round residents who fall into one of two groups: the baby boomer “do-gooders,” who stay active by volunteering
interfacing as best they can with their Mexican neighbors and frequenting spaces like the Lake Chapala Society’s downtown Ajijic “campus,” weekly markets
Another group lives here primarily for the good weather (homes here do not generally need air conditioning nor heating) and affordability
and the opportunity to casually connect with their Mexico surroundings
The epicenter of staying busy is Ajijic
This number doesn’t include the estimated 4,000 foreign-born year-round residents and thousands more seasonal visitors
Founded in 1531 and wedged between steep mountains and the Lake
Ajijic’s kilometer-long lakeside malecón (pier) is a delight at all hours
mostly resulting from pressures upstream and the Rio Lerma watershed
but rarely do humans disrupt its calm surface or explore its shallow depth
Ajijic’s prosperous central plaza is dominated by a gazebo adorned with lake-inspired cement motifs
Its murals are a legacy with ties to a children’s art program
launched by American Neill James in the 1950s and still in operation today
James arrived in Ajijic in 1943 and stayed for 50 years
opening the first Spanish-language library
sponsoring silkworm looms that employed village women and spearheading various philanthropic initiatives
Calle Colón bisects the villages from north to south and connects the plaza with the lakefront
Colón is lined with art galleries displaying works by Mexican and foreign-born artists
real estate offices and clothing boutiques
There are surprisingly few museums or colonial-era structures here
reflecting the village’s historic isolation (the first roads connecting the village to the outside world came as late as the early 1950s) and fishing village heritage
There are hiking trails crisscrossing the lake-facing mountains
a 30-kilometer protected bike path and morning kayaking from the Ajijic waterfront
Thermal swimming pools (balnearios) are just a short drive west of Ajijic
Many of us living here enjoy the three live theater companies
in addition to the numerous secular and religious cultural traditions
you won’t find any sprawling resorts or large hotels here in Ajijic
Visitors typically stay in Airbnb rentals or small inns sprinkled along central Ajijic’s crumbling cobblestone streets
Gated communities and dozens of residential developments mix foreign buyers with affluent tapatíos (people from Jalisco)
who generally occupy their homes on weekends and holidays
The foreign “invasion” is not without impact
Gentrification has brought changes in ways good and bad
Rising prices for real estate and rentals weigh heavily across the entire northwest Lakeshore region
Residential water wells are being tapped out; traffic congestion through Ajijic and into Chapala is worsening
A partial positive counterweight is the economic impact of foreign spending that goes into the hands of residents and business owners
animal rescues and educational efforts strive to mitigate some of these externalities
offering residents volunteer opportunities that are having positive impacts
Take in the world’s best weather and international intermingling in the town of Chapala and the villages of San Antonio Tlayacapan
All this and more begins a short 30-minute drive from the Guadalajara International Airport
Of all the “happy places” you may consider parachuting into
I’ve found mine along the northwest shore of Mexico’s largest natural lake
Greg Custer has lived lakeside since 2015, operates Ajijic Walking Tours and consults with folks exploring Mexico for overseas living
He is a regular contributor reporting on the Lake Chapala/Ajijic region for Mexico News Daily
Your request appears similar to malicious requests sent by robots
Please make sure JavaScript is enabled and then try loading this page again. If you continue to be blocked, please send an email to secruxurity@sizetedistrict.cVmwom with:
the structure is built out of rammed earth
creating layers and pockets which provide the residents with both public and private spaces
the dwelling is constructed from vernacular materials using traditional mexican methods
resulting in a structure which strongly responds to its surrounding landscape
the various translucencies of the overall building create a visual interplay between the materials
these are strategically found on the south side
protecting the north from the cold winds.
north façade photo © iwan baan (also main image)
dining room photo © iwan baan
the living room and kitchen are separated by the floor material photo © iwan baan
stairs and concrete walls photos © iwan baan
corridor material photos © iwan baan
entrance with exposed bulbs photo © iwan baan
view at night photo © iwan baan
AXOR presents three bathroom concepts that are not merely places of function
but destinations in themselves — sanctuaries of style
the daughter of Robert Williams and Martha Hoenshel Williams and the granddaughter of Walter E
Walter Williams was longtime publisher of the Fairfield Ledger
Rebecca won a scholarship to University of the Seven Seas and World Campus Afloat (Chapman University)
This was a major influence in Rebecca’s life
exposing her to diversity of cultures and creating a passion for international travel and adventure
She received a BA from the University of Oklahoma and a MA from Oklahoma State University
where she became a successful businesswoman and owner of Ford Real Estate
Rebecca was active in the Mexican community of Ajijic
speaking fluent Spanish and making many friends
and participated at Sunday events in the Ajijic plaza
She also performed at the prestigious Teatro Degollado in Guadalajara
creating calendars and participating in collective and individual exhibitions
locally and at the Ex-Convento del Carmen in Guadalajara
Rebecca was a gardener and traveled internationally to botanical and private gardens
enriching her home garden and identifying unusual species
She also loved to cook and studied in Oaxaca
Her motto was “Eat well and travel often.”
Rebecca practiced yoga for more than 30 years
Her yoga practice enabled her to enjoy a quality of life and travel during the three years after her diagnosis of pancreatic cancer
Her final wish was to visit Paris with her spouse
Shortly after return to her beloved Mexico
Rebecca is survived by her spouse and partner of 14 years
Robert Williams and sister-in-law Donna Wiseman Williams of Johnston
A celebration of her life will be announced at a later date
comfortable and enlightening place any Mexico-seeking expat could ever hope to find
It’s also quite common (when you’re living in paradise) to get drawn into like-minded social spaces
I try to steer clear of the comment sections
But a recent conversation that erupted on an Ajijic chat site was just too juicy to swipe past
it was about a seemingly humdrum matter: poop in the lake
The protagonist was an innocent expat wanting to “do something” about Lake Chapala and the surrounding area’s rainy season raw sewer overflows
This is a common yearly experience across Mexico (and parts of the United States)
This topic became one of the forum’s most talked-about crises
For an online community that traffics in selling toaster ovens and queries like
“Can anyone help me fix my remote control?” the comments veered to unexpectedly extreme expressions of angst
I took to distilling this vitriolic sewage–in-the-lake commentary
hoping to find the fault line of when and where we expats turn complaints into activism
While I found no evidence of anyone with a latent desire for more poop in the lake
it’s clear that the expat community is nowhere near to being on common ground regarding what to do about the issue
We seem to be caught in a swirl of doubt: being “sensitive” versus “don’t waste your time.” The result: with some exceptions
expat residents sit self-sidelined on issue after issue
As a resident of one of the longest-standing colonies of Americans living anywhere outside the U.S
(American expats have been living here since the 1940s)
Perhaps a presidente municipal (mayor) whose grandfather was from Wisconsin
given the generations of lakeside living by Americans and snowbird Canadians
we expats are still in another orbit from our Mexican neighbors
As shown by this particular social media uproar
we too often run for our respective ideological mother ships
Most of us expats are here for the right reasons and will donate to causes in a generous fashion (giving both time and money)
But too often we are susceptible to all this sunshine and the well-stocked shelves of the Super Lake market causing our ideologies to run amok
It can take something like poop in the lake to reveal our true colors
it’s an abandonment of the credo “think global
act local.” In the doo-doo diatribe about Lake Chapala sewage
this group once again shoots themselves in the proverbial huarache (sandal)
Being “sensitive” (and choosing to do nothing)
these folks plop (so to speak) right into the “it’s not our country
however: that we all switch to compost toilets
In the other corner (social conservatives?) are those who bring their First World problems and material hang-ups to their new Jalisco lakeside home
Mexico is a mere coincidental backdrop for living behind a wall
This group harps about Mexico’s corruption and how nothing is ever going to change
“Why bother?” becomes their answer to addressing local issues
In between are those who worry that any form of public expression about local issues is illegal
(It’s not.) Others have come to realize that many Mexicans disdain confrontation
It’s not that we invaders only want to save the world by rescuing one stray dog at a time or by opening yet another bazaar for dead people’s belongings
spend an hour at Ajijic’s Open Circle get-together/lecture some Sunday morning: you’ll meet social crusaders
esteemed diplomats and true global citizens
starved (as is our lot) for information and insight
We are a great 60-and-over generation of listeners and learners
But how do the “why bother” and the “let’s be sensitive” viewpoints come together
Do we “respect” Mexico and Mexicans when we withdraw to the do-nothing comfort zone
Do we exacerbate the problem when writing off expat activism as futile in the face of bad government
I propose it’s time for a communal coming of age for Mexico expats
Maybe then we act arm-in-arm with our neighbors in resolving shared afflictions
Mexicans would cheer our taking notice of public nuisances
Even more would appreciate us working toward solutions
Greg Custer has worked in Mexico tourism for over 40 years. He helps foreigners find their village in the sun at www.mexicoforretirement.com
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The artsy town of Ajijic rests on Lake Chapala's northern shore © Alberto Alvarez / Getty Images
Guadalajara is a large, dynamic city. It's one of Mexico’s classic destinations with countless historic sights and things to do
as well as daily traffic jams and an ever-growing sprawl
A day trip out of the city provides a refreshing break from all that urbanity
If you’re looking for a different side of Mexico, then you’re in luck: cobblestone villages, artsy lakeside towns, dense forests, ancient ruins and even colonial-era tequila distilleries are all within easy striking distance. Grab your day pack and head to the bus station to check out our top five Guadalajara day trips
Why go: Deep dive into the history and making of tequila
Tequila is a charming cobblestoned village surrounded by a sea of blue agave with views of its namesake volcano in the distance. It’s home to several distilleries, most hidden within colonial-era haciendas. Museo Nacional de Tequila is a good starting point for visitors
covering the history of Mexico’s most famous drink
A stone’s throw away sits two of Mexico’s leading distilleries: Mundo Cuervo, the oldest tequila distillery in the Americas founded in 1795, and Casa Sauza
a comparative whippersnapper at just 150 years old
Both distilleries offer in-depth tours of their estates
sharing the step-by-step process of tequila making with tastings along the way
consider staying overnight to explore the region further
a breezy café on the church plaza with outdoor tables and an extensive menu of coffee drinks
By car, Tequila is an hour northwest of Guadalajara on Hwy 15D. Or take the Tequila Express bus
Why go: Explore a one-of-a-kind archaeological site
Guachimontones ruins make a fascinating day trip for history buffs and those interested in off-the-beaten-path travel. A place of worship for the ancient Teuchitlán people, Guachimontones is one of the only ruins in the world whose structures were built in nearly perfect concentric circles
you can’t help but marvel at the main temple
a six-story-high curving pyramid covered in bright green moss overlooking the La Vega dam
It’s surrounded by several smaller circular complexes
many of which are still used as places of ritual
Leave time for the excellent onsite museum where you can also take a guided tour
stop at one of the modest waterfront restaurants to try the local specialty: ancas de rana (frog legs)
How to get to Guachimontones from Guadalajara:
take a second-class bus to the village of Teuchitlán (about a two-hour ride)
and then it’s a 10-minute taxi ride – or 35-minute uphill walk – from there
Why go: Recharge on the banks of Mexico’s largest lake
Set on the northern shores of Mexico’s largest lake
the namesake town of Chapala is a pleasant working-class community known for its glittering waterfront and bracing mountain views
Take a break from Guadalajara’s big city energy – you won’t need more than a day here – to enjoy the scenery as you stroll along the malecón
a pleasant boardwalk lined with palm trees and buzzing waterfront restaurants
Beer Garden is a Chapala institution and the classic stop for a drink with live music on weekends. Or wander east to La Palapa de Don Juan, a soaring thatched-roof restaurant famous for its fresh fish platters. For a treat, take a boat ride on the lake to Isla de Mezcala; tickets are sold online and at the main pier
about an hour drive south on Hwy 44 to Hwy 23
Second-class buses make the trip (one to 1½ hours) from the Central Vieja every half-hour
an impressive rock formation seemingly custom-built for bouldering
To make the most of your time, rent a mountain bike or book a guided trip with Colores de Tapalpa
That’ll give you time to check out more trails and wander Tapalpa’s winding streets
stopping to visit the 16th-century churches or linger over a mug of rompope (a drink similar to eggnog) at La Villa
First and second-class buses travel here from the Nueva Central and Central Vieja (around 3½ hours)
Ajijic is a charming village and a favorite of North American ex-pats
Brightly painted homes are draped in vines of blooming bougainvillea
and the town’s cobblestone lanes are dotted with murals
It’s a picture-perfect place to spend a day (or two
Start at the leafy main plaza with its mosaic-tile sidewalks, public art exhibits and vendors selling handcrafted goods along the edges. From there, a constellation of galleries fills the surrounding streets, most showcasing local talent – Calli Intermuros and PabLola Galería de Arte are musts.
As you wander, look for El Muro de Los Muertos, a towering art installation of 1,000 clay skulls that is an impressive nod to pre-hispanic cultures. Before leaving, try some international flavors – Ajijic Tango, an upscale Argentinean spot, and Kamellos Food Truck, a middle eastern eatery, are longtime faves.
Ajijic is off of Hwy 23, about a one-hour drive from Guadalajara. Second-class buses leave every 30 minutes from the Central Vieja (one to 1½ hours).
which is representative of his minimalist style
including the lanterns and the Mies van der Rohe-inspired chaise longues
The "David Hockney blue" pool tile is one of his rare nods to color
echoes the blue he saw in a Matisse painting
Schaible lived in New York City for 40 years but grew up in a small town in Colorado
"It's so bizarre that I came back to one," he says
So there are no windows; they're all doors." Schaible designed the courtyard's bronze urn fountain
Noguchi floor lamps flank the fireplace in the living area
Japanese stack trays were his inspiration for the low table
"There's a period of the year when it's very dusty
I'll do the floor a dirt color."
"It looks like an Ellsworth Kelly," he notes
The terra-cotta pineapple pots are by local ceramist Bulmaro Alejos
and no one really knows what's behind them." The Art Déco-style lounge chairs on the loggia "almost look like they're from India."
"I saw them in a friend's garage," he says
Text description provided by the architects. The intervention project of the existing auditorium and its expansion as a cultural center was requested by the Culture Ministry of the State of Jalisco, to meet the goals of the program known as Cardinal Culture. This program seeks to decentralize culture and spread it in different regions of the state through the construction of different cultural complexes. Our project is located on the shore of Lake Chapala, the largest lake in Mexico.
Its coastline is the most important settlement of foreigners in the country, due to the benefits of its climate and peaceful lifestyle. It was very important for us that our project could communicate part of the cultural history of the site.
© César BéjarRethinking preexistence. For the configuration of the new cultural center, the starting point of our intervention was the recovery of the preexisting on the site: an auditorium for 400 people and an office building. The auditorium already contained a portico with traditional brick vaults that we recognized as the most valuable preexisting element in architectural terms.
© César BéjarAlthough none of these preexisting buildings had heritage value, we decided to recover them and integrate them into the new complex, to which we added three new elements: a library as the facade of the complex, a longitudinal service building with a music classroom, dance hall, and open-air amphitheater, and finally a central water mirror.
and so that their presence transmitted the idea of enclosure
the library building is clearly aligned with the avenue and the long service building
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Alicia’s convalescent nursing home in Ajijic
is a retirement community featuring five different care facilities
Four of these care facilities are on La Floresta Street
while the fifth one is on the west side of Ajijic
the residents can expect to pay between $1,200 to $1,500
and Vonage VOIP service for calling friends and family
Personalized medicines and doctor visits are not accounted for
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concluded yesterday with one kidnapper dead
five arrested and the safe release of their two victims
More than 100 state and federal officials participated in the successful rescue operation
which took place in a hotel where the victims’ relatives were about to deliver a ransom payment
“An operation was set up in the establishment
with the goal of apprehending the members of this gang,” said acting state Attorney General Marisela Gómez Cobos
“When the alleged criminals realized their cover was blown
An agent of the prosecutor’s office was injured in the gunfight
but the gangsters fled the scene and took cover on a hill on the Chapala-Ajijic highway
State anti-kidnapping agents gave chase and a second gunfight followed in which one of the kidnappers was killed and five were arrested
including the suspected leader of the gang and three women
officials determined that the kidnappers’ victims were being held in a house in a house in nearby Jocotepec
“Both were rescued alive and in good health,” said Gómez
Sources consulted by the newspaper Milenio said the gang operated in the Chapala-Ajijic-Jocotepec corridor
It has been linked to at least eight kidnappings in Ajijic and Jocotepec
Source: Milenio (sp)
a pretty town by Lake Chapala in the western state of Jalisco
Their large house has a spectacular view over the water
where birds glide in the late afternoon breeze
“The only thing we miss is Tex-Mex food,” says Mrs Thompson
This article appeared in the The Americas section of the print edition under the headline “The Latin American dream”
Discover stories from this section and more in the list of contents
Just as in the United States, working-class and immigrant voters swung right
The Conservatives suffered one of the most astonishing falls from popularity in political history
An interview with Evo Morales in his tropical highland stronghold
MAGA bombast has upended Canada’s political universe and given Mark Carney’s Liberals an edge
Donald Trump and Justin Trudeau’s toxic legacy have pushed Canadians to the centre
Jalisco is the place that gave the world tequila
It also launched the Mexico-for-overseas-living movement in the 1940s and is home to the iconic Lake Chapala
and gated real estate communities have hosted foreign-born residents for decades while drawing throngs of Mexican and international visitors
The folks living here — a culturally diverse bunch from over 30 countries — will immediately point to the comfortable year-round weather at 5,000 feet
and serenity enhanced by Mexico’s largest natural lake.
Visitors will also be delighted by the region’s forested mountains and the big city attractions of nearby Guadalajara
The region is also a fascinating laboratory of multiculturalism — home to thousands of foreign-born year-round residents who fall into one of two groups: the baby boomer “do-gooders” who stay active volunteering
interfacing as best they can with their Mexican neighbors and frequenting spaces like the Lake Chapala Society’s downtown Ajijic “campus.”
Another group lives here primarily for the excellent weather (homes here do not generally need A/C nor heating) and affordability
although challenged by the peso’s appreciation and inflation.
Some call it an American “colony” or joke that it’s Mexico’s “Island of Misfit Toys,” but it still has the world’s best weather with an international intermingling across the town of Chapala and the villages of Ajijic (now a Pueblo Magico)
the epicenter of multiculturalism is Ajijic
Founded in 1531 and wedged between steep mountains and the lake
its kilometer-long lakeside malecon is a delight at all hours
The town’s main square is dominated by a gazebo adorned with lake-inspired cement motifs
Murals are a legacy tied to a 1950s Children’s Art Program (still in operation) launched by the late American author Neill James
She arrived in 1943 and stayed for 50 years
opening the first town’s Spanish library
and sponsoring philanthropic programs such as silkworm looms that employed village women.
Calle Colón connects the plaza with the lakefront and is lined with art galleries displaying works by Mexican and foreign artists
Surprisingly few museums or colonial-era structures are here
reflecting the village’s historic isolation (the first roads connected the village to the outside world in the early 1950s) and fishing village heritage
Some limited gentrifications have appeared in response to the hordes of weekend visitors from Guadalajara and foreign residents
no sprawling resorts or large hotels exist here
Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville is attempting a foothold for “55 and greater” residents at a 200-unit condo development west of Ajijic
Visitors stay in Airbnb rentals or small inns sprinkled along central Ajijic’s crumbling cobblestoned streets.
there are hiking trails crisscrossing the lake-facing mountains and morning kayakers plying the lake’s shallow waters from the Ajijic waterfront
A protected ciclopista affords accessible biking east to west
connecting the cities of Chapala and Jocotepec (a distance of 30 kilometers) over flat terrain (regular and electric bike rentals are found in Ajijic)
Thermal water balnearios are a short drive west of Ajijic in the village of San Juan Cosala
Thirty minutes from the Guadalajara Airport
Jalisco’s scenic lakeside village in the sun welcomes foreigners to come
Yucatán Magazine has the inside scoop on living here. Sign up to get our top headlines delivered to your inbox every week
public murals in public don’t always get the respect they deserve
To see a mural and its artist disrespected in a cultural capital such as Merida is shocking enough
That it’s happened in a state-run art school is even more striking
Yucatán Magazine‘s “Celebrations” issue launch party raised 100,000 pesos (almost $US6,000) after a generous and anonymous couple matched the event’s proceeds with their own donation
a nonprofit that provides spay and neuter services throughout Yucatán
“The donations and pure joy and enthusiasm around this event reflect the commitment…
Yucatan — A Mexican tourist and his family faced down waiters
refusing to budge from a restaurant’s beachfront palapa
“Show me the piece of paper where it says I can’t be on the beach,” the unnamed tourist said in a confrontation captured on video
” The beach is free and it’s for…
MEXICO CITY – President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum vowed to address unfinished aspects of the Tren Maya
and the Interoceanic Train projects following a meeting with Morena governors from the south and southeast of Mexico
She committed to an investment of 83 billion pesos to complete both initiatives within the next two years
Mexican President Andrés Manuel López Obrador has called for Austria to repatriate the artifact known as “el Penacho de Moctezuma.”
Yucatan health authorities said on Sunday as they announced 159 new coronavirus cases
Over 1,000 new infections have been detected in the past seven days
an exceptionally large increase for a single day
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a short piece of historical fiction (in Spanish) based on D.H
Lawrence’s 1923 stay on the ribera norte of Lake Chapala
where Lawrence began work on his novel The Plumed Serpent
Jorge Varela’s writing brings in references to the venerable old Restaurante La Posada in Ajijic
and to “La Rusa,” the mysterious horsewoman who rode around dressed all in black while being swindled out of the proceeds of a gold mine just up the hillside above the town
I ask Jorge if he would act as cicerone to my wife and me and give us a little introduction to the history of the area
Varela agreed and first drove us into a residential area of Ajijic called Villa Nova which has streets with names like Calle de la Mina and Calle de los Mineros
“The original Rancho del Oro is still here.”
he took us to a stone wall on Calle del Manglar where we hoisted ourselves up just high enough to get a good peek at the well preserved buildings from which the mining operation had been run
with an impressive arched aqueduct in the background
“Somewhere in the hills just above us lies the gold mine itself,” said Jorge
“but it’s now considered very dangerous to go inside
They say several people who entered that mine ended up dead.”
After having stirred up a bit of gold fever in us
Jorge took us straight to the ruins of an old crushing mill in Ajijic
and the family that now lives on the premises unhesitatingly gave us permission to wander both inside and outside the decrepit buildings
sturdy earthen ramp where ore-laden wagons were pulled up to the crusher
I would love to revisit this place with someone knowledgeable about mining
Next we made a brief visit to the doorway of La Casa de la Rusa at 26 Independencia
where the number plaque shows the silhouette of the Horsewoman in Black
a ballerina and actress who eventually became a legend in Ajijic
La Rusa means “The Russian,” and she went by the names Ayenara Zara Alexeyewa as well as Khyva St
although it appears she was actually born in New York City as Elinore Saenger
According to writer Judy King, she and her dance partner/foster brother bought the above-mentioned gold mine in the 1920s “hoping to fulfill their dreams to produce and present great Russian ballets here in Mexico.” In their blog
local researchers Jim and Carole Cook say the mine was called La Misericordia and La Rusa was being swindled by her Mexican partners until mine manager Quilocho Retolaza came to her rescue
Quilocho had been one of Pancho Villa’s most dashing officers and La Rusa herself (under the pen name Frances De Brundige) tells the story of how he saved her from swindlers and bandits in the book Quilocho and the Dancing Stars, which can still be found in a few discriminating used bookstores like La Perla Books in Guadalajara
There are also lots of old photos and memorabilia about Zara Alexeyewa in the highly popular restaurant of La Nueva Posada Hotel
which just happens to be named Restaurante La Rusa
Our last stop in Ajijic was the site of “La Vieja Posada,” which was built in the 1500s and has had many reincarnations
Today it is called Restaurante María Isabel
Lawrence (and later many other famous artists) used to stop by for a tequila and sangrita
The correct procedure for imbibing these two drinks
Now for this ceremony the tequila must be blanco while the sangrita is red
I immediately learned what’s not in it: alcohol
After that I got a different version of the ingredients it does contain from each of my friends and from every source I checked
I guess that means you’ll always be surprised when you drink it
we drove eight kilometers east to the town of Chapala
now known as Quinta Quetzalcoatl Boutique Hotel B&B
“This is where Lawrence stayed while he lived in Chapala,” said our guide
turned out to be one of the most gorgeous places to stay I had ever seen
In the middle of the patio was a pool with a serpent motif
Lawrence’s room was just as attractive
On the wall was a picture of the writer and his wife Frieda
along with the text of the telegram Lawrence sent her in 1923
Take evening train.” The train is long gone
In Ajijic: the wall where you can hoist yourself up for a peek at the old mining ranch is on Calle del Manglar
about halfway between De los Mineros and Del Arroyo
The crushing mill is at the south end of Calle Flores Magón
Google Maps will take you straight to La Nueva Posada Hotel
In Chapala: Quinta Quetzalcoatl is number 307 Zaragoza Street
Just ask Google Maps to take you to “Villa QQ Chapala.”
The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website
This unique community is designed to meet the highest standards of living for adults 55 and better looking for a relaxed and vibrant lifestyle in Mexico
The design of Latitude Margaritaville International Lake Chapala
is a testament to the fusion of modern and traditional charm
each home embraces the spirit of Margaritaville while incorporating elements of local culture
the traditional design elements and details seamlessly blend with Margaritaville to create a unique experience for future residents
As the only residential community in the region with a rooftop bar
residents can enjoy breathtaking 360° views of Lake Chapala and the surrounding mountains
The community will also offer a variety of amenities
Residents will be able to partake in various activities such as pool volleyball
is a global lifestyle brand inspired by Jimmy Buffett
whose songs evoke a passion for escape and relaxation
Margaritaville features over 40 lodging locations and over 20 additional projects in the pipeline positioned across a variety of full-service and boutique hotel and resort brands
all complemented by an extensive suite of food and beverage concepts
and LandShark Bar & Grill. Ranked #1 in Guest Satisfaction among Upper Upscale Hotel Brands in the J.D
Power 2023 North America Hotel Guest Satisfaction Study, Margaritaville's inspired hotel brands with high-quality partners include Margaritaville Hotels & Resorts
part of the Island Reserve Inclusive Collection
Margaritaville's branded real estate includes Latitude Margaritaville
"55 and better" active adult brand; Latitude Margaritaville International; Margaritaville Cottages
Villas and Residences; One Particular Harbour Margaritaville; and Margaritaville Vacation Club by Wyndham
The newest brand additions to Margaritaville's properties includes the rapidly-growing Camp Margaritaville RV Resorts and Margaritaville at Sea
which debuted in 2022 with its first ship, Margaritaville at Sea Paradise
consumers can escape every day through a collection of lifestyle products including apparel
About Levy Holding Levy Holding is an integral and autonomous business group focused on real estate development, seeking to innovate and offer great quality in all projects, always considering sustainability and the human factor behind them. For more information, please visit www.levyholding.com
MargaritavilleFinn Partners, [email protected]
Levy HoldingSantiago Saracho, [email protected]Brenda Ramirez, [email protected]
Margaritaville Hotels & Resorts is celebrating back-to-back wins
Real Estate
Hotels and Resorts
Travel
Residential Real Estate
Do not sell or share my personal information:
Mexican real estate and investment firm Sun-Star Group
led by real estate developer Omar ORourke Martinez and his partner Thomas Wahl
celebrated the groundbreaking of the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Ajijic
a popular destination located within 50 kilometers of Guadalajara
Lake Chapala is located within 25 minutes of Guadalajara’s international airport as well as El Salto
an important industrial corridor and home to the Mexican and Latin American headquarters for many multi-national corporations
Radisson Blu is an upper-upscale international chain of full service hotels and resorts brand with stunning design and truly innovative service features
These flagship hotels are found in prime locations around the globe
with more than 395 properties now open or in development in more than 110 countries
Pictured from left to right: Delia O’Rourke
Several officials attended the ceremony from the Municipality of Chapala
including Mayor Javier Degollado who gave a history of Lake Chapala as a major tourist destination and thanked both the developer and Radisson Blu for making Ajijic the home of the first Radisson Blu in Mexico
Thomas Wahl of the Sun-Star Group remarked on the popularity of Lake Chapala as a destination for both international and domestic visitors
in particular from Guadalajara as its preferred staycation destination
He also emphasized the need for additional tourism infrastructure projects in the area
Mexico and The Caribbean for Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group
said "We are excited to welcome our first Radisson Blu to Mexico
The hotel's architectural and design combined with the brand's service will delight guests travelling to Ajijic
We appreciate the commitment that the O’Rourke family has made in this hotel and the trust they have demonstrated in the Radisson brand"
Omar O’Rourke Martinez detailed his family’s long history and connection to the area
his family and his team members for their support in his vision to bring this project to the Lake Chapala area and continue the development of the region as a favored destination
The resort is slated to open during the fourth quarter of 2019 and is estimated to create 200 construction and 80 full time jobs
The Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Ajijic is the Sun-Star Group’s first property as part of its multi-unit agreement with Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group
Español Eduardo Hernández Rodríguez +52-331-411-3109
Click here to join your colleagues and stay up to date on the latest hotel news and trends
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Mexico -- The Tea Party gathering in this expatriate colony of retired Americans and Canadians opened with the Pledge of Allegiance and singing of God Bless America
It continued with an airing of conservative pundit Dinesh D'Souza's documentary
during which audience members sipped bottles of Corona beer and
tsk-tsked at some of the remarks made by Democrats in the film
regardless of their political views," said organizer Karen Cage
an ex-broadcasting manager from the Dallas area
citizens reside in this collection of villages on Mexico's majestic Lake Chapala – where locals boast the perpetual spring-like climate is among the best in the world
one finds a well-organized Democrats Abroad chapter
including an episode of HBO's The Newsroom that described the Tea Party as "The American Taliban." Both sides are into the election as if they never left "the States."
I don't know how not to be involved," Cage says
It's uncertain which side has more support
although Cage says the local chapter of Republicans Abroad has had organization issues – at least since George P
stumped for votes here among expats in 2004
Some Democrats say former president George W
Bush is the reason they live at the area known as Lakeside
I'm out of here,' " says retired real estate agent Lois Schroff
who sold her Virginia Beach home and moved to Mexico seven years ago.Members of both groups do remain civil to each other
and try to avoid disputes by imposing "no-politics" rules when they get together
"We've thrown people out of here for getting into arguments that were too partisan," says Maryan Ramos
Texas."You really can't discuss politics with people down here," says Tea Party member Don Lott
"People are pretty small-minded – on both sides."
Both sides agree on their affection for Mexico
where sunshine is plentiful and property tax bills run about $200 annually
American amenities are also easily available – ranging from U.S
satellite TV service to grocery runs at Costco in nearby Guadalajara
"Where else could a bunch of old fools go and have so much to do?" says Billy Cooper
a Tea Partier fond of the family-oriented local culture.He cites another important reason for liking Mexico: health care that costs him "one-tenth" the price he would pay back in Houston
The formation of a Tea Party chapter in a region of Mexico known for its outward migration to the United States is somewhat improbable given the Republican Party's preference for maintaining strict immigration laws
but Cooper sees no conflict."The Tea Party is all in favor of legal immigration," he says
is discreet in public and few expats venture opinions on Mexican politics: The Mexican constitution forbids foreigners from meddling in such matters
Canadians winter here as well in almost equal numbers to the Americans
But they aren't as political-- possibly because many believe registering to vote will lead to problems with tax authorities back home
says former Canadian politician and Ajijic resident Rob Parker
"They believe they'll be found if they register to vote," he says
Margaritaville and Levy Holding announced signing the license agreement for Latitude Margaritaville International Lake Chapala
set to debut in phases starting in spring 2024
Latitude Margaritaville International Lake Chapala will be influenced by the surrounding area
and living opportunities for those 55-and-better
Lake Chapala is home to a significant concentration of expats
and a great climate with daily temperatures around 75° F
Chapala and neighboring Ajijic are nestled along the lake's shoreline
The area features unique cultural offerings
"With the success and demand for Margaritaville-branded residential communities in the U.S.
we're always looking for licensing opportunities and destinations that are compelling and dynamic
Lake Chapala was exactly that," said Jim Wiseman
President of Development at Margaritaville
and a dedication to community – all a major part of the way of life at Latitude Margaritaville International."
Latitude Margaritaville International Lake Chapala will feature a total of 194 accommodations
With resort-style amenities and an island-inspired feel
residences will feature contemporary design elements with prices starting from the $233s
as well as the impressive lake that invites reflection
Chapala is the perfect destination that evokes Margaritaville's passion and relaxation – elements found in a dedicated community
not simply a real estate development," said Agustin Levy
"We know this will be the first step in encouraging more expats to visit and invest in Mexico."
The first phase of the project will feature designated food & beverage locations
Most English speakers from North America are quite familiar with patchwork quilts; it is one of the few native handcrafts we still have north of the border
and it remains a part of Anglo-American identity
when American and Canadians began retiring to Mexico in large numbers after World War II
Avid Canadian quilter Wendy Wilton was pleasantly surprised to learn of active quilting “guilds,” or clubs
in places like San Miguel de Allende and Ajijic
these clubs provide quilters an outlet to socialize and get technical help
donating quilts to organizations such as orphanages
the Ajijic guild sent a batch of handmade quilts to Ukraine
Quilting’s social-service side may best be reflected in the tireless work of Mazatlán-based Linda Hannawalt
She had already been a force in the quilting world as the founder of the California non-profit San Francisco Sewing & Quilting Collaborative
Thinking she was the first quilter in the country
Linda quickly founded the San Francisco Quilt Shop in a building close to where cruise ship passengers arrive
she recruited local sewers looking to learn a new craft that would appeal to a new and lucrative market
and classes to foreign winter residents and tourists
is sharing the success she has had with Mazatlán women
After finding out that there are indeed other quilters in Mexico
finding opportunities to support fledgling groups
including one for deaf women in Zihuatanejo
Linda helped Mexican quilt businesses stay afloat by helping them import needed supplies while Mexican nationals were barred from entering the U.S
Her store’s income provides much of the support for this outreach
But it is not just foreign women promoting quilting in Mexico
Although the Ajijic guild is English-speaking and geared towards retirees
it has attracted Mexican hobbyists from as far as Guadalajara
Quilt business owners Silvia Barba Alhadro and Teresa Gurria of the Mexico City metropolitan area are two of over a dozen businesses that cater almost exclusively to Mexican women who
By 2019, Mexico was hosting expos, guilds and more in areas such as Monterrey, Mérida, León and Veracruz. Expo Quilt México Internacional is the largest of these, founded and run by Silvia Barba Alhadro, proprietor of The Quilting Studio in the fashionable San Ángel neighborhood of Mexico City
but they are important because of the networking opportunities among quilters and with the general public
Not only do these events have booths featuring quilt shops
they have exhibitions and competitions of some of the finest quilts being produced in Mexico
Most expos and events took a hiatus during the pandemic
but there is optimism that it is only a matter of time
quilting by chance while working at an international school
but when more and more friends and family wanted to learn
she started a quilting “school” in her home
she moved The Quilt Shop classes to its current location in the San Ángel neighborhood
Quilting classes have been the introduction to the craft for many Mexican women
not only because it provides a creative outlet
it provides a social one for many upper-class Mexican stay-at-home moms and retirees
Gathering regularly at the The Quilt Shop or any other of over a dozen quilt “schools” in the Mexico City area may be even more important than the quilting itself
stays in quilting class,” says Teresa Gurria
a former student of Barba Alhadro’s who runs her own quilt business in the northwestern Mexico City suburb of Atizapan
Even if the quilt shop looks like one north-of-the-border
the center of activity is always the classes
100% cotton fabrics made specifically for the hobby
These fabrics can be pricey and while they mimic what was used to quilt a century ago
there is one main difference: today’s quilts are rarely made with leftover scraps the way they were back then
One exception to this may be the quilting that is developing in Morelia
which had its first quilting expo last March at the city’s convention center
called Amistad Creativa (meaning “creative friendship”)
receiving support from city and state authorities
which see the economic possibilities of quilting for poor women and other marginalized groups
The expo also promoted “scrap” quilting as a way to recycle fabric
The use of modern commercial fabrics can be tricky in quilted products
but they are a resource that is more readily available in Mexico
Wilton has “no doubt” that quilting has a bright and growing future in Mexico
whether their purpose for quilting is purely therapeutic or they hope to find economic progress
Though Mexican quilters are still working with traditional Anglo designs for the most part
If you are interested in finding a quilting group
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
IDN-InDepthNews
At least one child dies from a residential home fire every day
Another three hundred are injured as a result of fire
there’s something smoldering before it bursts into flames
The same is true with the economic sectors of nations
we examine two dimensions of Mexico’s economy that are currently smoldering: Tourism and oil Mexico’s energy sector
REDMOND, Oregon, USA (IDN) – According to the World Travel & Tourism Council’s report on Mexico for 2018
travel and tourism made direct contributions to Mexico’s GDP of US$82.2 billion or 7.1 percent in 2017
the total contribution to Mexico’s GDP by the T&T industry was US$185.4 billion or 16.0 percent of GDP in 2017
revenue from Mexican petroleum products provides less than a 4 percent contribution to national GDP
T&T provides 16+ percent of total employment in Mexico
International trade (exports plus imports) comprise 77 percent of Mexico’s GDP
It is also interesting to note that the influx of foreign-born residents inhabiting Mexico doubled from 2000 to 2010
Those foreign-born residents are now estimated at one million
Translation: More Americans have immigrated to Mexico over the past half-decade than Mexican citizens migrating to the U.S
Tourists, travel and their direct and indirect economic contributions to Mexico remain strategically important factors for Mexico’s overall economic stability and sustainability. Recently, Mexico President López Obrador said tourism provided 41.4 visitors to Mexico who contributed US$22 billion to the economy in 2018
making tourism Mexico’s third largest source of foreign exchange behind the automotive industry and remittances sent by Mexicans working outside the country
Enter Lake Chapala: Characterized as an expat retiree paradise
the Lakeside communities of Chapala and Ajijic have been a traditional preference for retirees from Canada and the U.S
there are an estimated 10-30,000 retirees from primarily the U.S
and Canada who reside (full and part-time) in the Lake Chapala area
Their numbers swell seasonally from November through April. As I have chronicled elsewhere, the growth in both the pace and number of U.S. Baby Boomer retirees seriously exploring retirement and relocation in Mexico is on the rise. I refer to this social phenomenon as the MEXODUS
I have provided the basis for this cohort’s motivation in this and other articles
the book content has been supplemented with additional Lake Chapala related articles
Chapala and Ajijic are struggling to survive a wave of unimaginable violence
The current reality in the Lake Chapala region is a reflection of the strategic struggles Mexico is currently burdened with
It’s important to keep in mind that tourists travel
and retirees relocate to experience pleasure
Their unequivocal preference is to avoid risk
and potential threats to personal safety – and those factors that may diminish the enjoyment of their overall experience
prospective tourists have a built-in risk avoidance mechanism
Countries and regions therein are acutely vulnerable to tourist perceptions of risk
an investment in or by an individual or group is discretionary
Tourists can and do choose to substitute a less risky destination
McCormick 2017) the perception of risk by tourists has been characterized as a “major component of the decision-making process for evaluating destinations.”
Nothing reduces the desire of tourists to visit an area like occurrences of violent crime
the Chapala/Ajijic area has experienced over 8 murders
According to the World Justice Project, their Rule of Law Index places Mexico ranks 99th out of 126 countries
The Lake Chapala Reporter indicates that only 161 convictions were obtained in 2018 out of 2,413 homicides recorded in the State of Jalisco for the same year
Homicides in 2018 increased 57 percent in Jalisco over 2017
2018 was the most violent in the history in Jalisco
the figures for Jalisco translate to an impunity rate of well over 90 percent
(Impunity refers to committing a crime and the associated probability of suffering the legally proscribed consequences)
according to WJP “Mexico continues to rank among the worst countries in the world on an index that measures the rule of law based on the experiences and perceptions of the general public.” The State of Jalisco ranks last when compared to all the other states in Mexico when it comes to obtaining a conviction for a reported crime (0.67 percent or 6 convictions out of 70,000 crimes investigated in 2017)
Reuters reports that homicides in Mexico increased 33 percent in 2018
breaking the national record for the second consecutive year (33,341 in 2018 vs
A few residents in the Lake Chapala area have attempted to “nuance the narrative” of this reality by suggesting “this happens every six years when Mexico has a national election.” (This is the “This is normal – don’t worry – be happy – come on down” narrative
Imagine how that goes over with the families and friends of victims)
the Chief of Police in Lake Chapala stepped down (only to receive a comparable position with the inept State Police of Jalisco)
7 amphibious police officers in Chapala were arrested for selling dope and possession of illegal weapons
Navy and State and federal police have been requested to be deployed to the area – and another woman was shot to death in Chapala on March 5
AMLO has attempted to nuance the narrative as well
stating that “the war against the cartels is over.” Really
How do you think this plays in the nostrils of prospective tourists and/or retirees
is Lake Chapala paradise or a pair o’ dice
The point is perception is everything and reality is a _ _ _ _ _. Alejandro Zozaya, CEO of Apple Leisure Group
has declared that Mexico’s high-end tourism market has declined 20 percent in 2019
and will continue to decline throughout the year
The National Chamber of Commerce and Tourism Services reported that in February 2019 Puerto Vallarta received between 10-13,000 reservation cancellations due to the ongoing lawlessness in Mexico; an economic loss of some 400 million pesos for the Puerto Vallarta area
It is the reality that continues to disrupt the effective functioning of a cylinder in Mexico’s economic engine
according to analysts who cover the company
An estimated 1,145 truckloads of oil is stolen from Pemex in Mexico – per day. The financial impact of this theft is akin to $7.4 billion in lost revenue for Mexico since 2016. This reality has been characterized as “a significant hit for a country where 3.8 percent of GDP comes from oil exports.”
Mexico’s economic growth forecast has been cut from 2.1 percent to 1.6 percent for 2019
The outlook on the long-term ratings for Mexico were downgraded to negative from stable by Standard & Poors on March 4
The tax burden for PEMEX is also distinctly higher than other state run oil companies; even higher than that at Venezuela’s Petróleos de Venezuela SA (PDVSA) whose solvency is at risk
Over 60 percent of all power in Mexico is produced with gas. Slowdowns in economic growth, any further reductions in the credit risk ratings of Pemex or Mexico may cause tangible problems for the ability to cash flow and/or finance the requirements of the country. An estimated one-third of the Mexican government’s income depends upon oil
The gas for the economic engine in the Lake Chapala area (and others in Mexico) is tourism
The nation of Mexico requires routine replenishment from the same source
corruption and inaction now flood the minds of prospective tourists who make the final choices regarding their international travel and retirement plans
The uninterrupted flow of tourists and prospective residents to Mexico is in jeopardy
Similar perceptions of risk and socio-economic instability are negatively impacting PEMEX
If these realities continue to remain unaddressed by tangible strategic plans to deliver the essential solutions
one would expect the performance of Mexico’s economic engine to continue to decline
What Mexico cannot do with either tourism or Pemex is to fall prey to the shallow utterances that come from some expats in Lake Chapala area who choose to nuance the narrative: (“This is normal – don’t worry – be happy – come on down”)
It’s time to deliver verifiable practical results
Confidence is earned through delivering tangible positive results
It is degraded through nuanced narratives that serve only to erode the disintegrating confidence of global onlookers as obvious expressions of half-baked lip-service
fundamental challenges of Mexico require vastly more than that
On March 13, AMLO over-ruled the comments from Deputy Finance Minister Arturo Herrera who stated the construction of the proposed new Dos Bocas refinery in Tabasco will be postponed – and the $2.5 billion designated for the new refinery will be used to boost exploration and production at PEMEX
AMLO says bids for the Tabasco project will be opened up on March 18
The six existing PEMEX refineries currently operate at less than a third of their capacity – as maintenance and essential upgrades have not been made due to a lack of money
PEMEX operations lose money as they attempt to increase production
Pressuring PEMEX to increase production of unprofitable operations seems to be a curious strategy
AMLO’s popularity in Mexico after his first 100 days in office is lofty – purportedly above 80 percent
That represents the hopes of the Mexican people – a nation with a 45 percent poverty rate typically craves just that
AMLO’s popularity is not shared by the global community where organizations that matter
The cancellation of the Mexico City airport project will cost Mexico some USD $5 billion
The real crime here is if AMLO continues to nuance a disingenuous narrative versus attending to the smoldering fires that are threatening the Mexican economy
smoldering fires can morph rapidly into blazes that spread and are vastly more difficult to extinguish – and destroy adjacent segments of an integrated economy
That’s not perception or a nuanced narrative; that’s reality
I was recently advised by a reader in Mexico that I should watch AMLO’s press conference each morning
I replied that the tangible progress Mexico must make are not the one’s President AMLO speaks toward at a morning press conference
They are the one’s his administration legitimately resolves by the end of each day
Perhaps AMLO should change the time of that daily morning press conference to the end of each work day
*Bill Dahl is a U.S. based investigative journalist. He can be reached at https://www.BillDahl.net
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This article was published more than 7 years ago
Lindsay and Darlene Abbie's colleagues think they're crazy
The public high-school teachers still enjoy their jobs
Darlene is 51 and can't collect her pension until she's 55
"Many of our colleagues say we should keep working," he says
"They say we would be giving up so much if we stopped working now
and there's still so much of this world that we would like to see."
The Abbies know how to stretch their money
By spending part of each year in a low-cost country
they can get their travel fix and spend less
Mexico's Lake Chapala is on the couple's radar
They're also considering various locations in Southeast Asia
They first considered retiring three years ago
They're now renting an apartment in the nearby town of Osoyoos
"It's going to be cheaper for us to rent," Ms
They say their home cost them about $3,210 a month
The 960-square-foot apartment they will be renting in Kelowna will cost $1,950 a month
Most financial experts would agree that the couple should be fine
The net proceeds from the sale of their home were more than $300,000
Their money will go far in a place such as Lake Chapala
The region's lakeside towns include Chapala
Such towns are filled with retirees from Canada and the United States
Most of them chuckle at conventional retirement wisdom
The former elementary-school teacher retired when she was 57
They spend the other five months in San Antonio Tlayacapan
They spend less than $1,900 a month in Mexico
"I came down to Mexico for two months in my first year of retirement," Ms
"I loved it so much I returned each year."
That's where Diana Friedman lives full-time
The former occupational therapist is from a small town near Victoria
Jim Cook is one of the region's most knowledgeable expats
"is that the Lake Chapala region [including all lakeside towns] picks up 7,000 to 10,000 more people during the winter due to snowbirds and other short-time renters."
Most of the expatriate residents love the weather
Larry Laframboise used to work in Southern Ontario as a software developer
computer systems analyst and system administrator
he and his wife have lived full-time in Mexico
They installed a solar system to keep their electricity costs down
"We own a car and live comfortably on $60,000 a year," Mr
This affords them a much better lifestyle than what they would have had in Canada
where they estimate it would cost them twice as much
According to numbeo.com
rental costs in Ajijic are 67 per cent lower than they are in Toronto
Restaurant meals cost 62 per cent less and groceries are 56 per cent cheaper
expat with a real estate office in Mexico's Puerto Vallarta Marina
he has written a helpful newsletter for expats who want to retire at the Royal Pacific Yacht Club condominium development
He surveys residents to determine average costs of living
and couples report spending $18,940 a year
There may be a way to retire with even less
Former political activist Kelly Hayes-Raitt spends every winter in a huge home overlooking Lake Chapala
she began to master the art of full-time house-sitting
How to Become A Housesitter: Inside Tips From the Housesit Diva
which explains how to find fabulous homes – whether you're looking for a short holiday abroad or seeking a new
International Living magazine voted Mexico the world's top international retirement destination for 2017
But the Abbies know that other low-cost countries exist
The International Living Guide to Retiring Overseas on a Budget
checking out house-sitting sites and figuring out how to retire in style
"while enjoying early retirement that costs a fraction of what a full-time retirement in Canada would cost."
Associate portfolio manager James McCreath explains it can be risky to depend too much on a defined-benefit pension plan to provide retirement income
and says additional retirement savings are advisable
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Andrew Hallam is the author of the best-selling book Millionaire teacher: The nine rules of wealth you should have learned in school
he now teaches personal finance at Singapore American School -- and built a million-dollar investment portfolio on a teacher’s salary
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