Veda Kilaru Our favorite places for a meal in the neighborhood she’s poring over her meticulously maintained restaurant spreadsheet for fun South Side Weekly A neighborhood that took its name from where it was built literally behind the old Union Stockyards; an afterthought meant to house the poor immigrant workers who endured unsafe and unsanitary labor conditions to then come home to more unsafe and unsanitary conditions Houses built over a former city landfill with small rooms whose purpose was to fit as many workers as possible as the slaughterhouse capital of the country some even referred to the neighborhood as a “smell” depending on what direction the wind blew A neighborhood that still today is often an afterthought to many of the local politicians (not all) A community that has suffered decades of systemic disinvestment and lacking of sustainable resources It’s the people that make the neighborhood If there’s one common strand that connects the German Mexican and Black migrants that have inhabited this area since the mid 1800’s how else do you become Upton Sinclair and write The Jungle who some consider the father of modern day organizing past and present who have contributed to the fabric of what is now the Back of the Yards welcomed by the blizzard that famously cost Mayor Bilandic his reelection to a part of the neighborhood that was quickly changing from Lithuanian to Mexican They left the city they loved with a climate in the high 70s to an unknown frontier with twenty-plus inches of snow and sub-zero temperatures It still amazes me to think what drove them to leave behind the life they knew to a future of unknowns there are many untold stories of immigrant plight amongst my neighbors past and present because they choose to bury the memories because the pain of bringing them up is too much to bear it’s because the story of our neighborhood is often narrated by outsiders with no firsthand experience or relationships to invest the time but without the Candelaria and Vicente Iñiguez’s of the world our local economy wouldn’t be thriving; laborers who bring the pan de cada dia (“the daily bread”) from the neighborhood panaderia and carniceria that employ people from the neighborhood That is what makes this neighborhood so great You also have newer small businesses like the Back of the Yards Coffee Company co-existing with longstanding businesses like Atotonilcos Despite the picture that outsiders paint of Back of the Yards and it’s thriving because of the people and the time County and State have failed us for so long and representing the Back of the Yards with pride These are just some examples of the many jewels that exist here The people are the Back of the Yards’ best Neighborhood co-captain Guadalupe Ceja was captain of Best of Back of the Yards in 2020 and co-captain Jacqueline Serrato is the editor in chief of the Weekly Sign up to get the Weekly Digest delivered to your inbox If you’re from Back of the Yards you know who I’m talking about I don’t even have to say from where and you can already picture him I’m talking about the cashier of the Atotonilco’s on 47th that has been here since forever He is better known as “El [señor] de los licuados” or the licuadoman (the milkshake man) but even I didn’t know his name until recently even though I chitchat with him every time I’m there He’s been a neighborhood institution since I can remember I can’t picture there ever being an Atotonilco’s without him While the tacos at Atotonilco’s are good and unique themselves (I learned recently that they make their own tortillas from corn grown in the owner’s farm) They’re famous for the chocolate and strawberry licuados but specifically made by el señor de los licuados He was the first in his family to leave his town and has been here ever since he started working at Atotonilco’s after short stints at a factory through a temp agency the typical story of many immigrants that have come here He started as a waiter and moved up to head cashier but picked up his touch for the licuados right away four of his brothers also worked there with him He is a gym rat who in his younger days was an avid basketball and volleyball player when he’s not at the taqueria or spending time with his family If there was a Back of the Yards Hall of Fame are loyal employees who stay with their employer until they retire worked two jobs so that he and his brothers could help build a house for their mother That is something that he is very proud of If you’re ever in the neighborhood and you’re craving a delicious licuado stop in and say hello to el de los licuados which consists of two eggs and all the fruits available I grew up across the street from Davis Square Park in the 90’s we learned to quickly drop to the ground when gunshots were heard For many years people were afraid of coming to this park My own friends from high school or bandmates would drop me off on 43rd Street or Ashland so as to not “enter” the neighborhood If you google Back of the Yards or you only watch the news or listen to ambitious politicians they would have you believe that the neighborhood violence is at its worst that this is a violent community and that nothing here is worth saving one that has hit close to many of us who live here We have many bright spots in our community and Davis Square Park is one of them but the biggest ray of light often gets overlooked: the Friday night Davis Square Softball league In the early 90’s a bunch of the local party crews got together and formed a softball league It lasted a few years; some joined the local gang a local resident and Park District employee who reminisced about its glory days (he also grew up in the 90’s) and looking to organize something positive for the neighborhood it is still running and is more competitive and family friendly than ever Every Friday at 6pm a mixed bag of nuts assemble to play competitive adult sixteen-inch softball at Davis Square It doesn’t get much more Chicago than that and OG’s who played in the original league You get neighborhood residents and people from outside meeting here every week to compete for that coveted trophy and even some Tejanos who gather here to play Here the playing field is leveled (outside of some teams bringing ringers because that’s how bad they want to win) It doesn’t matter what your salary or title is Hundreds of people gather to play or to watch the drama of the rivalries I’ve been playing so long in this league that I now play with or against the children of some of the former players I used to play against probably played against some of their grandfathers too He’s the one that taught me how to pitch years ago I’ve even played against my old little league baseball coach There’s so much trash talking and arguing with the umpires that you’d think you were in a Cubs vs the league is pretty divided between supporters of the best baseball team in Chicago and those that root for the North Siders Children watch and play as their parents or older siblings are on the field At each exit of the park you have a street vendor or as we call them neighborhood people bring out the grill and take advantage of the people that are gathered by selling tacos to fundraise to help the family You have the two undercover cops parked in the parking lot sent there to make sure there’s no trouble even though there has never been an incident in all the years the league has been around I think they secretly like softball and are there as spectators This is where friends and family see each other once a week to talk about what’s going on in our lives Because whenever something bad happens in the neighborhood but when good things like this happen for years Friday nights in the summer are the highlight of the week to many including myself a little brewskies and lots of camaraderie What good is a beautiful park if we don’t have the people using it Named after former priest and community leader Bruce Wellems’ late father Tom’s Pancake House is one of the most anticipated restaurants in Back of the Yards that there have been in a while embarked on this journey a couple of years ago as an extension of their mission and ministry For years they worked to bring resources for the neighborhood youth through the Catholic church helping start the Marimba Ensemble and a kids’ cafe specifically those deemed “youth at risk,” has reaped huge dividends Many of us who have stayed and invested in the community have been because of them Longtime residents know Bruce and Angie for their activism and commitment to the people of the neighborhood but those of us who had the privilege of meeting Tom and enjoyed a meal with Bruce and Angie know the other thing they’re known for: pancakes that in a Mexican community like Back of the Yards the way to bring people together was by sharing a meal Their meal of choice just happened to be pancakes One of the reasons people are so excited about the opening is because ever since The Sunny Kitchen shut down many years ago to make way for the Walgreens that stands there today we haven’t had a breakfast/brunch spot in Back of the Yards I’ve had the privilege of seeing their menu as they will be using an array of locally sourced ingredients offering freshly made meals and healthy options as well that is not the only thing people are excited about aside from bringing a much-needed service and delicious food will be providing workforce development for people in the community looking to work in the restaurant and hospitality industry They will provide much needed jobs and experience to a community that sorely needs them it will serve as a space focused on mental health and peace circles They will sell coffee bags from Back of the Yards Coffee Shop whose profits will go directly to youth serving neighborhood programs present and available when the community needs them The best part is that they are doing it east of Ashland in a part of the community that has been severely disinvested in for years So if you’re looking to enjoy some delicious breakfast and at the same time contribute to a good cause stop by Tom’s Pancake house and kill two birds with one stone I started attending the Peace and Education Coalition’s monthly meetings of Back of the Yards community leaders and others with a stake in the well-being of the neighborhood I only made it to one or two meetups in person before the whole endeavor pivoted to Zoom and eventually my own attendance fell victim to Zoom fatigue But through all of last year and into this one the PEC has continued to meet online and do the slow thoughtful work of meeting neighborhood challenges in community with each other the PEC was instrumental in the creation of Dugan Alternative High School which has since morphed into the dual-campus Peace and Education Coalition Alternative High School it fundraises to provide college scholarships for Back of the Yards youth and organizes everything from mothers’ marches against gun violence to nights out in the community moving into breakout groups to address a particular prompt or question the coalition meetings helped keep BOTY stakeholders connected Executive director Bruce Wellems said that over the past year anywhere from thirty to sixty people representing maybe fifty organizations  “Although many found COVID challenging in providing services within their agencies they expressed hope in the stories they told and they drew strength from one another in the telling and listening to the story,” he said “We were limited with residential gatherings and technically challenged as well with neighbors but the experience of COVID and being separated makes many of us all the more determined to find ways that our agencies and network can reach out to others.” “I think the PEC Stakeholders meetings keep me accountable to a community and not just a school,” said one respondent to a July feedback survey “The meetings help me ‘see’ the larger web of how adults and communities can connect to make a positive impact.” until this summer the community engagement coordinator at La Casa Norte which has a Back of the Yards site on 47th and Hermitage “I’ve been to a ton of community engagement meetings and a lot of times it feels like there’s a lot of talk and not much action,” she said “But these meetings are special because they feel like there’s real sense of neighborhood investment in them and they’re really focused on building relationships ground-up process where these organizations and residents come together and develop projects Peace and Education Coalition. peaceandeducation.org and website in this browser for the next time I comment Δdocument.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value" View More View More On the final stop of California’s barbacoa trail and master barbacoyero in California’s central valley deserted parking lot of what used to be a gas station in the nowhere Central Valley town of Pixley and I’m starting to worry that this whole last leg of my barbacoa trail quest — what was supposed to be the grand finale — is a wash I’d first begun messaging with Erik Ramirez a few weeks prior when I’d stumbled across photos of some impressive-looking barbacoa pits online with layers of roasted maguey leaves and huge bone-in cuts of lamb being extracted from a brick-lined in-ground pit The scene portrayed in photos evoked images of legendary pits on the outskirts of small towns in Mexico It was as if I was staring into the very soul of Mexico through my iPhone While Erik does make and sell carnitas on Saturdays who is the artist behind the meticulous pits They are both members of a family that’s four generations deep in the Hidalguense barbacoa tradition Erik persuaded his father to allow me to visit his home and barbacoa headquarters in Pixley “Meet me at the gas station off the freeway on Saturday at 10 p.m.,” Erik said around the time my trip-mates and I arrived at our hotel in nearby Bakersfield (after a few barbacoa pit stops along the way) after what seems like an eternity of marching nervously around the parking lot of Pixley’s Park View Market (which is a black Toyota Tundra pulls up and a window cracks open I walk toward the pickup and get cut short chasing the taillights of the black truck down a dark muddy driveway and stop at the front gate of a well-worn home with scales of white paint barely clinging to the stucco Erik’s flashlight illuminates a pen of thirty-some black and snow-white lambs milling about in the dark before ushering us inside to what can only be described as a cliché horror set There are meat hooks hanging from the ceiling don’t look unlike Buffalo Bill’s holding cell in Silence of the Lambs and part barbecue pit: Gonzalo Ramirez’s artist’s studio Lamb brought him to Pixley two years ago — more specifically to the space to raise and keep his own lambs which he couldn’t find near his previous home in the vast sprawl east of LA known as the Inland Empire and make sure they are healthy,” Gonzalo tells me later “It’s just something that matters to me a lot Raising one’s own meat is rare for barbacoa practitioners Most cooks purchase lambs already butchered which still leaves them with plenty of work to do but spares them the time and financial commitment of running a farm in addition to a barbacoa business for his grandfather who taught him the craft — there are no shortcuts So for four generations and across two countries the Ramirez family has raised their own lambs on alfalfa and cracked corn and butchered the animals themselves “The moment you begin to butcher the animal I can tell if they are natural and fresh,” he says I first spy Gonzalo awkwardly teetering on the edge of one of two roaring hot deep earthen ovens in the ground in a way that makes my teeth clench I talk with Erik to divert my attention as Gonzalo uncovers his cook carefully removing the top tarp covering and sweeping away the dirt so as not to soil the precious tangle of lamb pieces and the open stockpot for consomé inside With labored motions that appear too clunky for a man who’s dedicated his life to the task and bursting pouches of offal-stuffed stomach by hand without a misstep — so hot they will continue to stay warm in a wooden box until the end of service around noon tomorrow Gonzalo’s sister Maria de Lourdes Ramirez typically helps him with the prep while the butchering and cleaning of the meat and the painstaking process of loading the in-ground pit with a giant pot for consomé and traditional offal dishes like moronga (blood sausage) and pancita (offal-stuffed stomach) are his responsibility and the precise layering of maguey leaves and lamb cuts has remained the same for more than half a century It’s as much a part of the recipe as the signature garlic rub Gonzalo applies to the lamb in addition to adobo “I don’t know if garlic is typical back home When all of the lamb is finally removed from the pit which Gonzalo scoops from the stockpot with a large plastic Hite beer bucket The circular pit he designed funnels all of the oils from the adobo-slathered meat and lamb guts The rich broth becomes barbacoa’s essential side dish meant to be sipped slowly alongside your meal consomé is a lyrical experience — an ancient poem about Mexico’s cocina de humo His breath is labored and his joints audibly crack as he bails the consomé from its giant pot at the bottom of the pit When the plastic bucket becomes pliant from the heat it starts to stretch out into a spout that seems to lean on its own toward a 10-gallon Igloo cooler like a divining rod for one very bushed barbacoyero I stand clear and try not to do anything that could possibly distract Gonzalo But in all of his strained and terrifying contortions I barely notice the small figures darting in and out of the shed setting out a stack of warm corn tortillas and a few plates on a wooden bench surrounded by tools and tattered work gloves I catch one of them under the dim glow of the shop light buttery lamb direct from the pit on corn tortillas as well as sips of the rich consomé writhing with depth and smoke but it is time to go — Erik and Gonzalo need to get on the road so they can squeeze in an hour of sleep before service starts at 7 a.m But Erik tells us where to find them the next morning and so we head back to our hotel in Bakersfield for cigars and a nightcap of the finest pint-size rum available at the local liquor store Tomorrow morning we’ll trek nearly 100 miles south to the north San Fernando Valley neighborhood of Arleta California — home to Juicy Couture and what I’ve recently come to realize is quite possibly the purest expression of ancestral barbacoa in the United States born in the Mexican town of Atotonilco El Grande is a small agricultural and farming municipality of 28,000 residents located between El Chico National Park and the state of Veracruz The city center’s charming cobblestone streets surrounding the Jardín Principal are absent of tourists — it’s locals only — and the weekend barbacoa stands stretch all the way from the garden to the outskirts of the city looks like so many sleepy small agricultural towns along the 99 and the Pixley General Store — but with “panaderia y abarrotes” (convenience store) painted on the wall facing the street The fields surrounding it that aren’t full of grazing dairy cows grow cotton and the types of grapes that produce fine Central Valley supermarket wine sold in jugs and large boxes Window signs speak to the old and the new in Pixley: “Ice Cold Beer” shines in worn-out neon while down the street you’ll spy freshly painted advertisements for cerveza Gonzalo doesn’t work in agriculture in a traditional sense but he moved all the way out to Pixley from his family’s last home purely for the sake of his Sundays-only barbacoa Efficiency and expansion are American ideals counter to barbacoa tradition and find other ways to streamline the cooking of barbacoa barbacoa cooks often forego the pit altogether for conventional and modified ovens and they add non-barbacoa dishes to the menu to drum up more weekday business to survive None of this interests or motivates Gonzalo finding a home more than 100 miles from where you work so you can spend time and money raising animals others just purchase — these are not things one does out of convenience Mexican pit-roasting tradition in its original form — what Gonzalo Ramirez does in Pixley faraway from his stand — is Gonzalo’s treatise; his simple signage we drive the 95 miles from Bakersfield to Arleta and arrive at 10 a.m The line in front of Atotonilco El Grande Hidalgo Barbacoa has been steady since 7 Other than a banner that reads “Rica Barbacoa,” the corner of Canterbury and Hoyt doesn’t stand out from the handful of other stands and food trucks gathered in front of a plant nursery Under a canopy is a long folding table and a stand with a wooden box of warm barbacoa next to a butcher’s block which is set near a large circular flattop grill Gonzalo is talking up his customers as they wait for their orders — you’d never guess he hadn’t slept in 24 hours His customers are mostly working-class Mexican families from Hidalgo and they seem to know something special is going on here evidenced by how many of them stick around to chat with the master once Gonzalo finally takes a break from his barbacoa marathon In the line that’s curved around the corner a man yells at Gonzalo to save him some ribs and then gestures at me to hold his place so he can talk with Gonzalo and preorder his favorite cut but they still have a full day’s work ahead Gonzalo is at the front of the service line pulling meat out of the box to chop up for tacos and for orders by the pound and a consomé for the young man,” repeats Gonzalo and a mix of red and green salsas while the tacos are still hot and at the apex of their powers As I walk away from the table of condiments and the iron-rich scents of pancita and blood sausages dominate the air between my nose and the plate I pull one of the plastic chairs over to use as a table for my spread though most customers are eating off of their dashboards or the hoods of parked cars; others just eat where they stand Traditional barbacoa recipes don’t call for a lot of salt hence the shaker on the table alongside all the condiments I sprinkle some salt over my barbacoa tacos but not before I reach in to find a few chunks of meat untouched by any salsas or other garnishes and take a bite of the pure My eyes close instinctually so as not to distract from the sensory kaleidoscope from the lamb pen to the pit to the taquería — it’s all here is an otherworldly expression of Gonzalo’s labor fatty flavors born in the pit are a primeval treatise on Mexico’s ancestral foodways handed down from grandfather to grandson; each warming slurp is a river of roasted meat juices “This food is the legacy of my grandfather who was more my father than my actual father,” says Gonzalo who explains that his father struggled with alcoholism leaving Gonzalo’s primary care to his grandparents every Friday through Sunday Gonzalo was helping with the prep at his grandfather’s taquería learning the craft and eventually cooking himself under the master’s supervision and now I want to pass that down to my own children.” at his grandfather’s barbacoa pit and stand where the details were embedded into his muscle memory and every step repeated until it became instinct “He told me that you have to be perfect in your cleaning explaining that the washing is not just to avoid the fetid flavors of dirty innards but because the chaos of pit cooking — meats and maguey leaves piled about — must be precise and cleaning them so that nothing taints the product you’re cooking or you shouldn’t bother Barbacoa of this quality is an art preserved by idealists For purists like Gonzalo and his grandfather the recipe begins and ends with the care of the product quixotic practitioners destroy themselves for the love of an ancestral ritual like barbacoa “I do this for my customers that come here and support us every week allowing me to feed my family— they are why I’m here,” says Gonzalo my grandkids — I started when I was their age — how old are you I was already working with my grandfather at that age,” says Gonzalo A few weeks later I drive up to Arleta from Los Angeles for another taste and his family points to a truck parked nearby “He’s sleeping in his truck.” The snores reverberating through the windows of his pickup are a sign of what’s required to harness the wild energy of the pit into a refined and years of study have taught Gonzalo to understand both to align structure and finesse to a cooking process that’s concealed from the cook I come earlier and catch Gonzalo talking with customers his body relaxed and leaning against the chain-link fence behind his stand this time to a piece of property just 50 miles from his stand in Arleta “even better than the one you saw in Pixley.” Better yet He has finally decided to start learning the family business carrying on the tradition of cooking his great-grandfather’s recipe alongside his own father the uncompromising guardian of Mexico’s greatest culinary tradition along California’s barbacoa trail The nearly two months I drove up and down the state in search of barbacoa was a surreal trek and a global reckoning after the murder of George Floyd But California’s barbacoa trail is a bit like that — a bumpy often backtracking road that ultimately leads to heaped plates of hometown pride Mexico’s pre-Hispanic culinary traditions are alive and thriving in the Golden State because of talented cooks like Gonzalo Ramirez and countless others working quietly in their pits these barbacoyeros and barbacoyeras reveal a deeper multilayered story of regional Mexican cooking — how it changes from town to town and can even take a sharp turn in one cook’s suburban backyard I’m still craving soulful slurps of Atotonilco El Grande in a cup or to have my lips stained red from tacos de ximbo as in Tulancingo — or perhaps I could wander a little farther up the 5 or the 101 or the 99 and see where else the trail continues to lead Bill Esparza is a James Beard Award-winning writer and author of LA Mexicano For more than 100 years wastewater from the Valley of Mexico has been used for agricultural activity in the Mezquital Valley in Hidalgo where it currently irrigates more than 90 thousand hectares of crops with wastewater Excess wastewater flows and stormwater runoff have been redirected to the Tula Valley watershed to the north Despite the nutrient rich waters transforming what was arid land into highly productive irrigation district the untreated waters have led to sanitary and environmental problems the National Water Commission (Conagua) has embarked on a $1.4 billion long-term sustainable water management programme Atotonilco wastewater treatment plant (WWTP) – currently 85% complete and set for opening in February 2015 - which is hoped to help improve the local environment Around 80,000 hectares of agricultural land in the Tula Valley will be irrigated using treated effluent from Atotonilco The cost of the project is US$786 million for a design operate and transfer (DBOT) contract with CH2M Hill acting as the owner's engineer The project was assigned by CONAGUA to Aguas Tratadas del Valle de Mexico (ATVM) in December 2009 a consortium comprising several industry entities ATVM looks to collate the efforts of IDEAL Infrastructure Operations Controller (CONOISA) Construction and Urban Development (DYCUSA) and Green Gas Pioneer Crossing Energy into the design installation and testing phases of the project over a 25-year period Called the world's largest wastewater treatment plant Atotonilco will have a maximum treatment capacity of 3.6 million m3/day It will clean almost 60% of wastewater produced by the Metropolitan Area of Mexico City (compared to 8% beforehand) Methane gas from the sludge treatment process will produce 60% of the electricity consumed by the plant reducing its reliance on external energy sources the secondary treatment system will see 24 modules comprising of aerobic reactors and secondary clarifiers The primary effluent feeds distribution boxes by means of the pumps and will be equally distributed to the anaerobic reactors Secondary sedimentary sludge will be suctioned by means of air-lift and directed toward the gutters that return the sludge to the inlet chamber of each biological reactor as well as the purge pumps of sludge that sends them to the stage of thickening The process is made up of the physical-chemical reactors The pumping of water to the Salto of Tlamaco canal has the objective of mainly reducing suspended solids and biochemical oxygenation.Water then enters the flocculation chamber and the recirculation chimney which rotates at a slow speed that allows the growth and the grouping of micro-floccules The planned reagents are ferric chloride as a coagulant and polymers as flocculants Once the filtered water are disinfected they can be discharged by gravity to the Tula River and through pumping to the Salto of Tlamaco Canal This depends on the needs of the sites that are fed from these sources for irrigation The thickened sludge in the decanters (thickened through gravity) are pumped to two sieve filters with 230 m³/h flow and a 3 mm light unit falls by gravity to the reservoir for homogenization Concentrated sludge is removed from the bottom of each thickener through a pressure independent control (PIC) valve and is pumped into the tank for homogenization for onward shipment to each one of the anaerobic digesters The anaerobic digestion is designed to obtain a quality sludge which meets Mexican Official Standards NOM-004-SEMARNAT-2002 Sludge digestion is performed in digesters of 13,000 m³ arranged in two completely separate groups Volatile materials that are found in the digested sludge will undergo a process of molecular breakage resulting in a final product containing CH4 and CO2 and saturated water vapor at that temperature Below each of the two centrifuges there will be a screw injector installed that collects the sludge drained for transporting them through two screws to a silo with two 30 m³ hoppers The disposal of sludge will be carried out in a mono-fill built for this purpose in which they will deposit the mud for drying and final disposal With the gas produced in anaerobic digestion the electrical energy produced by this mean will power the plant Q: This is an enormous financial and logistical effort which requires a great deal of man hours.A: Indeed because it is a project worth about US$786 million it's a great effort for the financial structuring of investment and public-private appropriations it involves building a huge project on a very irregular surface which requires just over 180 MDP monthly cost coordinating high volumes of materials and controlling the manufacture and shipment of more than 1,200 pieces of heavy equipment from around the world is perhaps the most complex issue of all: it got to the point where we had peaks of 2,400 workers and 450 professionals from all specialties Q: What were the biggest technical challenges facing the construction of the Atotonilco?A: Virtually everything in this project involved major challenges Do not forget that once in operation this will be the fourth largest water treatment plant in the world and the world's largest to be built as one single project This project is certainly a global milestone Q: With the completion of the 62km long tunnels Mexico City will become a model capital for other countries in Latin America Do you expect other cities to do the same?A: Without a doubt these two works developed by the Federal Government will account for a major advance in the evacuation of wastewater and stormwater from the Valley of Mexico This is as well as providing flood protection to the valley's population not forgetting the sustainability component to increase levels of treatment in the most populous area We now have an example in the world in the implementation of sustainable water works for large cities with this type of problem Mauro Nogarin is a freelance contributor for WWi magazine. For more information, email: [email protected] Locals walk through the bustling town center of San Miguel de Allende Significant history and lively modern culture make the high desert town of San Miguel de Allende a fun yet sophisticated destination the Jardín Botanicó showcases the botanical diversity of Guanajuato's high desert ecosystem as well as an impressive collection of succulents from Mexico Stroll 10 kilometers of cactus-lined paths and enjoy the view of the wild canyon below The botanical garden is part of a larger nature preserve and the organizers host educational events Due to the architectural and historical significance of the carefully preserved central neighborhood, the town itself is a UNESCO site as is the nearby Jesuit sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco an unparalleled example of Mexican baroque architecture and interior décor UNESCO added San Miguel de Allende and Atotonilco to the list in 2008 noting that both sites were significant in the country's movement for Independence from Spain and that the art and architecture of Atotonilco displays the melding of Spanish Housed in the former Convento de la Concepción, the Bellas Artes has been the cultural center of San Miguel since its founding in 1939 The state-run institution offers affordable classes in art If you don't have time to enroll in a workshop or take in a show stop by for an espresso and the extraordinary Siquieros mural that depicts scenes from the life of revolutionary and native son Ignacio Allende La Gruta and La Escondida hot springs are both within 15 minutes of town The parklike grounds encompass swimming pools visitors can swim through tunnels to an artificial cave with a hot waterfall that delivers a perfect shoulder massage head to the outskirts of town for the Tuesday tianguis a giant flea market where you can buy everything from regional spices to used clothing to fleece blankets emblazoned with the Virgin of Guadalupe which serve mouth-watering traditional fare With its pink spires and turrets, La ParoquÍa de San Miguel Arcángel looks straight out of a fairytale the façade is the work of Zeferino Gutiérrez a 19th-century stonemason who supposedly learned his trade by studying postcards of French cathedrals Today the towering neo-gothic church is the centerpiece of town celebrations and souvenirs are ubiquitous San Miguel's nightlife doesn't get hopping until after 11 p.m. and night owls enjoy cocktails beneath the stars from the many rooftop bars and soda) and live flamenco guitar at Mama Mía's a storied institution a few blocks west of the jardín or grab a Victoria (the local beer of choice) and rub shoulders with locals at Manolo's a cozy bar decorated in old school Mexican ephemera and dichos (popular sayings) People-watching at the town plaza, known locally as El Jardín, is a time-honored tradition. You'll find the wrought iron benches crowded with gossiping expats and school kids as local families promenade in their Sunday best, strolling vendors hawk balloon animals, and sunburned painters attempt to capture the glory of the famous paroquía. With the lush beauty of a tropical forest and the serenity of a formal old-world garden, Parque Juarez, also known as the French Park, is a gem. Like El Jardín, the park is a popular spot with locals, and its meandering paths offer great people watching, as well as shady benches and stately fountains. Locals walk through the bustling town center of San Miguel de Allende. IL 60608">.css-56eu0z{width:1em;height:1em;display:inline-block;line-height:1em;-webkit-flex-shrink:0;-ms-flex-negative:0;flex-shrink:0;color:var(--chakra-colors-gray100);vertical-align:middle;fill:currentColor;}1758 W 18th St Chicago 5 Rabanitos is a restaurant with a menu of about 3,589 delicious things for you to choose from including a variety of meat and vegetarian tacos The carne asada taco here is one of the best in Chicago—it’s lightly topped with radish so the well-seasoned meat can really shine and chicken tinga fillings are also good choices If you want something that isn’t on this list All the tacos are the same affordable price ($3.75 each) so you can order an irresponsible amount and still make your car payment on time 8.2Don Pedro CarnitasTacos Pilsen Don Pedro has been a Pilsen staple for over 30 years and we’re pretty sure they’ve spent every moment of those three decades perfecting their carnitas and on weekends you can expect a line out the door The obvious choice here are the carnitas tacos made with pork that’s fried in its own fat until perfectly crispy But also make sure to get the tacos guisado filled with a stew made from—surprise—pork 8.0Rubi’s on 18thMexican We don’t often recommend places that are only open during the full moon of a leap year or where you need to recite an incantation in Latin to have its location revealed This counter-service taqueria only operates from 11pm to 6pm on Thursdays and Fridays But it’s worth rearranging your schedule to eat juicy al pastor and steak tacos that come on thick handmade tortillas 7.3Tortillería y Taquerías AtotonilcoCoyotes RestaurantLa CecinaBirrieria Reyes de OcotlanBirrieria Zaragoza in Archer Heights is our favorite place for goat tacos in Chicago but you’re mostly here for the goat (which also comes in stew form) Just come with cash—they don’t take credit cards Quesabirria Jalisco ChicagoPrivacy Policy and Terms of Service apply Service map data © OpenStreetMap contributors To call someone a cabeza de chorlito in Spanish is equivalent to calling that person a birdbrain in English But how did the poor little chorlito (plover) end up with a reputation for not being the sharpest needle on the cactus I had been invited to the shores of Atotonilco Lagoon — a Ramsar (protected) wetland located alongside the town of Villa Corona located 40 kilometers southwest of Guadalajara — by a group of volunteers who were trying to remedy a problem that the snowy plover Charadrius nivosus or chorlito nevado in Spanish nature photographer Ernesto Sánchez explained the situation to me: “Unlike other birds that hide their nests in tall grass or trees which is on the list of endangered species out in the open and its nest consists of nothing more than a slight depression in the sand or mud even an animal footprint will do as a nest here on the shores of the Atotonilco Lagoon those eggs are left not only to the mercy of predators like crows and possums but are also in danger of being accidentally crushed by human heels cows’ hooves or the wheels of cars being driven aimlessly up and down the beach.” “¡Cabezas de chorlito!” I couldn’t help exclaiming “Why do these birds lay their eggs out in the open?” I asked the leader of the project whom I found bending over a cluster of three little eggs with a caliper in one hand and a clipboard in the other “the reason is that plovers have to perform a little ritual for choosing a nesting site and it can only be done on soft sand or mud Here the male uses his feet to dig three slight depressions “The female then inspects each spot for quality chooses whichever she considers the best and then drops little pebbles — or pieces of colored glass if she can find them — all around the winning depression Felix went on to tell me that female plovers aren’t really all that dumb that they are rather promiscuous and might have three different “husbands,” all of whom may end up sitting on the eggs and caring for the chicks while their communal “wife” goes off to do something else Felix placed it in a small bowl full of water you may hear the chick inside already pecking at the shell.” Snowy plover eggs need about 25 days to hatch and for all that time are threatened by myriad dangers Although plovers are pretty feisty and will pull on the tail feathers of an enemy bird there’s not much they can do if a big animal comes along except to run away from the nest and hope the intruder will follow them Plovers tend to run or even fly from the nest when feeling threatened or disturbed and use imaginative distraction displays especially when approached by mammalian predators pop out of the egg ready to deal with the less than desirable situation their parents have put them in “Within minutes after hatching,” Felix said “a baby plover — which is born covered in down — is capable of running far away at high speed.” All the people working to understand and protect the snowy plovers of Lake Atotonilco are volunteers who spend many of their weekends at this task They call their organization Eco Kaban and they receive some financial assistance from Terra Peninsular and Tracy Aviary They also collaborate with the Max Planck Institute of Ornithology in Seewiesen to collect blood samples to determine genetic populations in the Americas So just what is the weekend like for an Eco Kaban volunteer “They have a bird blind,” Canadian geologist and birder Chris Lloyd told me after visiting the lagoon a few days ago “It’s a real Mexican-style bird blind: a converted taco stand So they wheel it in place and check out the area through a spotting scope They watch the birds flying around and if they keep coming back to the same spot they say: ‘There’s got to be a nest there.’ So they line up that spot with something off in the distance and go stick a little flag next to it “Next they put a kind of chicken-wire lobster trap over the nest When the adult plover tries to get to its eggs it follows a sort of funnel down to the end goes through and then can’t find its way out That’s when Said rushes over to grab it before it escapes “He brings the bird back inside the blind A Mexican colleague studying at the Max Planck Institute will later take all the blood samples to Germany for genetic analysis and eventually there will be a paper on the differences between plover populations on the coast and inland.” “For the last three years we have been putting four brightly colored rings or bands on each bird,” Said Felix told me and the color combination identifies the bird as one nesting on Lake Atotonilco “This has been a great help for understanding the migratory habits of these birds which disappear every year in October only to pop back up in February And now we have an even bigger help thanks to the German Research Foundation and the University of California which has given us several tiny transmitters “Very recently our colleagues in Sinaloa were able to put one of these on a plover and it showed us the bird’s movement from the coast of Sinaloa to sites as far as 200 kilometers away we are just beginning to see the migration route of the snowy plovers so we can help protect them in the winter.” Eco Kaban is a Guadalajara-based NGO of biologists and ecologists working to preserve the environment “for this generation and for future generations.” In addition to studying snowy plovers at the Atotonilco Lagoon Eco Kaban helps organize the Christmas Bird Count in the Guadalajara area This Audubon Society event has been ongoing for 115 years and counts 65 million birds each year Eco Kaban’s third project involves tagging birds in Guadalajara’s Huentitán Canyon in cooperation with MoSI, the bird-banding program of the Institute for Bird Populations a nonprofit corporation founded in the United States in 1989 to study the causes of bird population declines for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico More of his writing can be found on his website ADVERTISE WITH MND COMMUNITY GUIDELINES Subscription FAQ's Privacy Policy Mexico News Daily - Property of Tavana LLC The modest "kitchen," if it could be called that chica," a man observing the operation told me Wandering Chicago's Pilsen neighborhood indeed felt like an experience near to a Mexican vacation And Mexico wasn't the only country I immersed myself in after a quick flight to Chicago long established neighborhoods let travelers feel as if they have landed abroad Populated predominantly by people of Hispanic heritage since the 1970s — before that the makeup was heavily Polish — Pilsen has deep Latin roots and wears them on its sleeve panaderias and bodegas line its bustling main thoroughfares gentrification is taking hold — a subject that inevitably arises in neighborhood coffee shops and bars — but Pilsen's charms have not been lost gang violence made it difficult for even the people who lived there to fully experience the beauty of the neighborhood Hotshot restaurants have pulled in food lovers from across the city Carts sell chicharrons (pork rinds) outside Harrison Park erected in Eastern European architectural style are awash in color with street art tableaus painted over their once somber exteriors Prices across the neighborhood haven't caught up with the rest of the city Scandinavian-designed Airbnb for less than $100 a night and ate great meals for less than $15 followed up by a cocktail at the charismatic Barrel bar for just $8 has gained national repute but remains free — as do the six-plus blocks of remarkable murals along the 16th Street train tracks which have been painted and repainted by artists for decades It made for plentiful and cheap entertainment — and a very full belly The 2.8-square-mile neighborhood claims enough taquerias for a week's worth of crawls — Taqueria Atotonilco was the best I found Bakeries such as Panaderia Nuevo Leon fill the sidewalks with the smell of baking masa and pastries I crammed along with dozens of others into Carnitas Uruapan a small restaurant touting a major pork operation I watched the parade of trays with meat and chicarrons coming from the kitchen to the counter where a man was lopping off pieces and wrapping them in paper for customers to take home "This is the best carnitas in the city," said Polo Mendoza who immigrated to the neighborhood with his family in the 1970s "But you also have to try the brain taquitos but one time I accidentally ate one at home He invited me to sit with him and his family Pilsen's bold flavor and warm spirit had gotten me again It was time to move on to other parts of the city My nose alerted me to my arrival on Devon Avenue garlic and onions drifted through the open windows of my Lyft It was immediately clear: I had made it to Chicago's desi corridor The area — about 20 blocks of Devon Avenue near the city's northern boundary — is one of the best known of its kind It became popular after the first location of the Patel Brothers' store an Asian-American grocery chain with outlets nationwide markets overflowing with produce and stores with racks of saris pulled out onto the sidewalks I chose Mysore Woodlands because of its creative approach to vegetables I received a spinach and cheese dosa (rice crepe) much larger than my head and two medhu vada (savory doughnuts dipped in a lentil soup) along with a spicy Indian tea I couldn't pass up window shopping at Sukhadia's one of a handful of sweets emporiums in the area Just like the Italians to get right down to business with the food I wanted to take in the scenery — and attempt to walk off some of my extensive mangia-ing of the previous couple of days After arriving at one end of Taylor Street I wandered over to the beautiful Arrigo Park — named for Victor Arrigo a former Illinois state representative and vocal advocate of the Italian-American community — and admired the European-style architecture that surrounded it Nearby was the National Italian American Sports Hall of Fame a statue of New York Yankees great Joe DiMaggio I was too late for museum hours — and too early to indulge in the famous Mario's Italian Lemonade stand down a few blocks (They were painting the exterior for the summer season when I walked past.) But there was still plenty to take in In recent years the neighborhood — on Chicago's Near West Side just north of Pilsen — has become more of a mixed bag of food cultures lessening the feeling of strolling through Rome I got the feeling that inside the marinara-infused restaurants — especially the likes of the Rosebud a mainstay for 39 years — little has changed the scent of roasting garlic gave me the only hint I needed Davanti Enoteca was jammed with patrons clinking glasses of red wine and diving into bowls of pasta; I followed their lead ShareSaveBETAThis is a BETA experience. opt-out hereLifestyleForbesLife8 Places To Eat, Drink and Play in Mexico’s San Miguel de AllendeByEmily Siegel Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights covering the world of beauty and dining.Jan 14 09:00am ESTShareSaveThis article is more than 5 years old.San Miguel de Allende That our visit happened to coincide with Mexican Independence Day with SMA hosting one of the country’s largest celebrations Although each quaint corner begs for an Instagram post SMA’s location on the Mexican plains—hours from the closest beach—has prevented it from becoming as mainstream as Tulum The small city’s expat population has bestowed it with the kind of creature comforts that tourists won’t find elsewhere in central Mexico (like a Starbucks in the main square) while maintaining its local charm and culture Consider this your chance to experience the real Mexico without straying too far off the beaten path Below are our top tips for a perfect weekend in the city Aldama Street Parroquia Archangel church Dome Steeple San Miguel de Allende with its modern furnishings and stunning rooftop bar chose to stay at the Casa de Sierra Nevada a five star hotel formed by nonconsecutive 17th- and 18th-century mansions but each is packed with local flavor and old world charm it does boast several stellar dining options and a pool—and perhaps the city’s most central It’s only a few blocks to the city’s famed pink church Best Upscale Dinner: The Restaurant I had my qualms about a restaurant with such an on the nose name do not expect tacos in this cozy courtyard you will be find upscale Mexican cuisine with international influences Standouts include the Brussels sprout salad Best Tacos: Tacos Don Tomas but our favorites came from this humble street cart and is therefore impossible to find on a map Trust you’re in the right place when you spot the herd of hungry locals A limited number of tacos and tortas are on offer the best of which (in our opinion) are the al pastor Best Brunch: Lavanda Cafe This quaint cafe is frequented by locals and tourists alike—anyone hunting for the city’s best brunch Enjoy a creamy cappuccino (which is available with an eponymous lavender twist) and traditional chilaquiles (a Mexican breakfast dish often served with eggs Best Coffee: Ki’bok Coffee SMA Best Rooftop Bar: QUINCE each claiming to have the best view in town especially when you consider its location just one block from the Parroquia church but it’s the view and the vibe that you’re paying for Reserve in advance and make sure to request a table near the bar and close to the action most appeared to be hip Millennials traveling down from Mexico City Best Gathering Place: Doce 18 burgers and other international fare on offer.) Warning: Those who drink too much Casa Dragones will want to steer clear of Doce 18’s adorable boutiques Best Cultural Site: Sanctuary of Atotonilco this 17th century church—often called “Mexico’s Sistine Chapel”—was recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site continues to draw 5,000 tourists each week you’ll feel better about last night’s tequila if you do something cultural during the day.. with heaps of beautiful and interesting places to see and some 28 million Americans safely travel there each year I’ve gathered some of the safest places to visit in Mexico complete with information on why you should go and where to stay Keep in mind that bad things can happen even in the safest places in Mexico and destinations that don’t appear on this list could still be great spots for a vacation you’ll want to follow common-sense rules such as drinking only in moderation getting a cab instead of wandering around after dark More: Five myths about State Department travel warnings Despite a longstanding reputation as a dangerous city to visit Mexico City is conspicuously absent from the State Department’s warning and for good reason; the downtown core in particular is considered quite safe and the city has numerous attractions for visitors — including street art colorful markets and more than 150 museums beautifully decorated Nima Local House Hotel is one of the best luxury hotel options in the city consider the Chillout Flat Bed & Breakfast which earns plaudits for friendly service and homemade granola Once considered a nice day trip from Mexico City (it’s two hours away by car) Puebla is emerging as a primary destination in its own right it’s not a small village; Puebla is Mexico’s fourth-largest city with some of the country’s best examples of Spanish colonial architecture and it’s considered one of the safest places in Mexico Where to stay: There are numerous places to stay in Puebla that won’t break the bank One of the best is the Casona Maria Hotel Boutique with its pretty courtyard and convenient location within walking distance of the historic center San Miguel de Allende is one of the safest places in Mexico as evidenced by its popularity with expats This UNESCO World Heritage Site is situated almost right in the middle of Mexico and offers cobblestone streets Spanish colonial churches and plenty of great restaurants is also a World Heritage Site and an important pilgrimage site for penitent Mexicans and tourists alike Where to stay: With its cozy common areas and brightly painted rooms Casa de la Noche is an appealing place to rest your head More: How to protect yourself against carbon monoxide poisoning while traveling As Playa del Carmen has been the site of some troubling violence of late the coastal town of Tulum to the south may be a safer alternative at present It is also less touristy than other resort towns on the Yucatan Peninsula offering well-preserved ruins of the former Mayan city walls and other historic structures right in town The State Department has explicitly stated there are no restrictions on travel to Tulum or to Chichen Itza the magnificent archaeological site just an hour up the road Where to stay: Guests appreciate the clean comfortable rooms and fast Wi-Fi at the centrally located Posada Luna del Sur A beach town located in Oaxaca to the southwest of Puerto Escondido Huatalco offers tons of water activities such as snorkeling and scuba diving While Huatulco itself is considered one of the safest places in Mexico the State Department is restricting travel along Highway 200 in the area (except to and from the airport) Where to stay: For an indulgent resort experience you can’t do much better than Secrets Huatulco Resort & Spa where amenities include multiple swimming pools and tennis courts Gerardo Tanaka Pacheco, senior account executive for MSL Group, the public relations firm for VisitMexico.com recommends these two towns as great alternatives to other nearby tourist hot spots “A lot of people go to Playa del Carmen and Tulum but on the Yucatan Peninsula there are these two beautiful colonial cities that are so welcoming and full of traditions that travelers won’t regret visiting them,” he says A great example of Spanish colonial influence Merida is a walking-friendly town that is connected to Chichen Itza by a toll road which is considered the safest way to travel in Mexico if you are driving and the area has its own style of cuisine that diverges considerably from what you will find in other parts of Mexico Midway between Merida and Cancun is Valladolid a colorful and friendly city that’s within easy driving distance of several beautiful cenotes consider snagging a poolside room at the Luz En Yucatan you can’t go wrong at the centrally located Hotel Posada San Juan This is one of my favorite secrets spots in Mexico; the lagoon there is unbelievable.” the lagoon stretches for 42 kilometers and is fed by underground rivers Bacalar holds the official designation as a “Pueblo Magico,” or Magical Town In addition to being one of the safest places in Mexico Where to stay: At the Bacalar Lagoon Resort you can get a view of the lake right from your cabana More: ‘Magical Towns’: Authentic Mexico off the beaten path a mummy museum and streets so narrow that one is called the Alley of the Kiss because couples can smooch one another from opposite sides You can visit Guanajuato as a day trip from nearby San Miguel de Allende or use it as a home base in itself Visitors to the area are mostly native Mexicans so you can immerse yourself in the culture fairly well; try a miner’s enchilada if you get a chance Where to stay: For a cozy stay right near the funicular into the center of town book one of the eight rooms at Casa Zuniga B&B There’s a homemade Mexican-style breakfast every morning Another UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the western coast of the Yucatan Peninsula Campeche is a walled Spanish colonial city that has been superbly restored nearly to its former glory The walled center is somewhat of a museum piece but the life of the town surrounding it might even be the main attraction There are also significant Mayan ruins in the state of Campeche of which the city is the capital; these aren’t as well known as the famous ruins to the east Where to stay: Try for a balcony room or suite at the modestly priced Hotel Socaire Queretaro’s streets are a wondrous mix of old and very old as grid-like Spanish streets connect to the pre-Hispanic winding lanes from the time of the Otomi From rock climbing and art galleries to architecture sightseeing there is a ton to do in this central Mexican city Yelapa is “Mexico’s last authentic beach town,” says Pacheco nice hotels and none of the inflated prices.” I’ve included Yelapa for folks who want a deeper Mexican experience but note that it’s in one of the State Department’s orange zones while nearby Puerto Vallarta is exempted — so you’ll want to do a bit more research before choosing this part of Jalisco Where to stay: The Hotel Lagunita is right on the water with amazing views and a pool from which to enjoy them This surf town in Baja California Sur features world-class waves and lots of natural beauty — and it’s just far enough north of touristy Cabo San Lucas to offer respite from the crowds but its stone streets and uncrowded beaches have earned it the official Pueblo Magico designation Where to stay: Posada La Poza has a fantastic oceanfront location at very reasonable rates This story originally appeared on SmarterTravel.com What to pack for Mexico: 30 essentials10 ways to have an authentic trip to Mexico10 best places to go in Mexico This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks The action you just performed triggered the security solution There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page Here are some of the lost gems of Milwaukee dining that the OnMilwaukee.com editorial staff miss most We encourage you to use the Talkback feature at the bottom to share your memory of a beloved The 38 Best Tacos in Los Angeles The Best Barbecue Restaurants in Los Angeles, According to Eater Editors The Hottest New Restaurants in Los Angeles Follow California’s barbacoa trail from Los Angeles to the Central Coast to the Bay Area to find weekend servings of tender roast lamb Barbacoa might be the most treasured meal of the weekend for Mexican families The pre-Hispanic tradition of pit-roasting lamb and even chicken and beef has proliferated across California thanks to immigrants who settled into the state’s busy urban centers and in agricultural communities throughout the Central Coast and Central Valley These cooks prepare their passed-down family recipes through the styles and techniques found in small Mexican towns and the notable regions of Hidalgo establishing a trail of barbacoa up and down California from LA’s busy streets and Bay Area flea markets to quiet suburban backyards If you only had barbacoyero Omar Mejia’s lamb barbacoa at the Richmond Pulga (flea market) on a Saturday you’d roll your eyes back in ecstasy over delicate cuts of lamb barbacoa on blue corn tortillas seasoned by a salsa verde mingled with briny chinicuiles (grubs) and ask for directions to his Sunday location in American Canyon Mejia offers the pride of Tulancingo: ximbo spatchcocked chicken encrusted in a red adobo and cactus strips is an offal-stuffed stomach without adodo that goes nicely with the salsa verde Grab a corn tortilla and tear off a taco’s worth of chicken and pork rinds at this home in the gateway to Napa Valley Located in the Garden Acres neighborhood on the eastern edge of Stockton is one of California’s only Querétaro-style lamb barbacoa operations but the top attractions here for offal lovers are the montalayo (regional name for pancita) and machitos (offal wrapped in tripe) Tacos de montalayo here are chopped from a tightly packed lamb stomach filled with heart and intestines slathered in chile guajillo while machitos are torpedo-shaped intestines wound by a continuous string of tripe that’s cooked on a grill the pair of bold-flavored lamb tacos makes this stand a barbacoa destination While Barbacoa Mejia is the stand to hit up at the Richmond Pulga there are around a half-dozen competing vendors selling lamb barbacoa along with essential dishes This might be the only place in California you can have a Hidalguense barbacoa crawl in one location all while shopping for cell phone accessories a state not usually acknowledged for its barbacoa Coss serves his barbacoa and montalayo on handmade corn tortillas in a cheery backyard setting that feels like an invitation from a friendly neighbor Get barbacoa to go at a home located in this East Bay suburb The chicken barbacoa is a whole bird stuffed with cactus and pork rinds along with both beef and lamb heads clotted with adobo Barbacoyero Rodrigo Chaparro sells Texcoco-style lamb barbacoa at his busy Bakersfield food truck where customers crowd into a half-dozen picnic benches under a tacked-on tarp stew-like reddish-brown pancita scented with epazote and a light consomé to accompany popular cuts of supple lamb barbacoa such as ribs and shoulder It’s an ideal breakfast stop on Highway 99 from Southern California toward Fresno and Yosemite California’s barbacoa mixteca region in Oxnard and Santa Maria specializes in yique a traditional dish that’s essential to barbacoa mixteca we visited a pair of stands at the homes of Mixteco barbacoyeros Eater agreed not to publish these addresses Gonzalo Ramirez has been cooking barbacoa as long as he can remember first with his grandfather in Atotonilco El Grande where his son Erik Ramirez is learning the trade Ramirez’s method includes raising the lambs and making the pancita in the pre-Hispanic tradition and perfect in a tortilla with just a little salt The consomé is a beautiful expression of smoke and slices of chile jalapeno to accompany a memorable breakfast from a true barbacoa artist Taquero Ian Leyva’s beef barbacoa stand has put northern Mexican pit-roasting on the LA map in a city that’s more familiar with central and southern lamb and goat barbacoa Leyva slowly simmers beef cheeks and tongue in a large pot on a stove top until the meat melts and fuses together in juicy clumps to spoon onto tacos The buttery-rich must-have consomé is the star of the show veteran Petra Zavaleta offers one of the most unique barbacoa styles in LA from her hometown of Tepeaca and cheeks attached for making tacos with warming lamb consomé iron-flavored lamb menudo called mole de panza enchilada that you can only find here Maria Ramos is a third-generation Oaxacan barbacoa master with deep roots in the Mercado de Tlacolula in Oaxaca or pit-roasted lamb in a chile-based marinade spicy taste of pre-Hispanic tacos de barbacoa Gish Bac is the best in its class for its esteemed barbacoa and traditional cookery Where to Find the Best Tamales in Los Angeles Where to Eat the Best Oaxacan Food in Los Angeles From his camper taqueria mounted on his pickup truck in East LA barbacoyero Javier Ramirez serves delicious goat barbacoa with a flavorful consomé to complete his pithy menu The rich consomé stock is cooked with goat bones that leech their marrow into the dish a little-known style of barbacoa from this southern Mexican state cloaked behind a canvas banner proudly displaying the Mexican silversmith capital of Taxco Julio Jaimes prepares excellent lamb barbacoa and goat birria with fresh tortillas made to order One of the deepest skills of the barbacoa master is pancita the offal-stuffed stomach of pit-roasted lamb which requires meticulous cleaning before being covered in a scarlet plaster of chiles and spices Julio gets this right — a balance of forbidden flavors of lung and liver with a rich chile guajillo that’s both subtle and alarming It took a feat of engineering to produce legal and traditional barbacoa inside of a U.S Former engineer and barbacoa master Paco Perez has done just that with his own oven design to simulate the conditions in an underground pit and lamb skulls are served with corn tortillas just like back in Texcoco at this large restaurant in Commerce Chicago’s Best Outdoor Dining Spots Chicago’s Best Margaritas The Best New Restaurants in Chicago, May 2025 the Chicago’s South Side boasts an array of restaurants and bars that can satisfy the most curious palates delicious and to the point: the South Side is not only home to some the best tacos the city has to offer but arguably some of the best tacos in the country or even if you’re a connoisseur of the tortilla variety the South Side offers something for everyone from either side of the city and head south of Madison to enjoy the definitive list of South Side tacos One of few places to survive the nuclear blast of gentrification in Pilsen this 30-year-old South Side staple serves everything pork you’ll only find carnitas on the menu during most days with limited menu expansions on weekends that include menudo and brain tacos just make sure you arrive early because they open early and often close before 6 p.m The Restaurants That Define Chicago's South Side This family-owned establishment has been in the heart of Pilsen for over 40 years They only serve carnitas by the pound and feature a small handful of sides the tacos are fully stuffed and most of the pig is utilized with an expanded menu on weekends featuring potato tacos If you’ve ever been to a Chicago grocery store you’ve seen El Milagro tortillas and chips El Milagro has a storefront taqueria that sits facing the county prison in Little Village El Milagro serves up a large chunk slab of unchopped skirt steak on top of a bed of rice and beans on their famous tortillas Taquerias Atotonilco has been serving up some of the best street-style tacos the South Side has to offer for nearly 50 years Open 24 hours on weekends and deep into the night on weekdays you can have a char-grilled carne asada tacos for breakfast Their pastor taco combines beef and pork in a red sauce marinade that is uniquely different from most pastors That is the epitome of the South Side culture and the recipe for success at Tio Luis Tacos The barbacoa tacos are the standout at Tio Luis and their cucumber lemonade pairs with everything on the menu and is a great refresher during the Chicago heat Let Luis serve you and your friends the “el Tablazo” if you’re looking to try a little bit of everything served on a large Known for being one of the most authentic street taco joints in Chicago Paco’s serves up a taco so stuffed with meat and condiments you’ll be glad you ventured to this Brighton Park gem The char-grilled steak and al pastor are local favorites and are open for customization Chicharron is king here and is fried up throughout the day and sold by the pound They’ve since opened a second location in West Lawn neighborhood Although there are no tacos here — only quesadillas— this place is worthy of mention on this list because of their ability to stand shoulder to shoulder in the land of meat 20-inch quesadillas and almost infinite combinations of stuffings with a large variety of salsas They have two locations within a mile of each other If you’re going to have only one item on your menu Your only choice here is a small or large plate of chef Jonathan Zaragoza's organically-raised several-hour-roasted goat on handmade-to-order tortillas with hot salsa and tomato consommé You are naturally intimate with the Zaragoza family in this 20-seate as you enjoy the layers of flavor and complexity that make up one of the most unique taco dining experiences the South Side has to offer You know you’re near a Zacatacos if you’re driving with the windows down – the smell of char-grilled steak and chicken fills your car hundreds of feet away This South Side mainstay is arguably the standard when it comes to all things taco They are known for their char-grilled chicken and overstuffed vegetarian tacos that will please most carnivorous taco junkie with four other locations on the South Side to enjoy as well The Clearing neighborhood of the South Side is an unexpected location to try Mexican/Asian fusion This tiny little taco shop that sits beneath the ever-landing planes of Midway Airport offers tacos of the Asian variety You can indeed enjoy Korean BBQ steak tacos and spicy Hawaiian pork tacos with kimchi pico de gallo without having to head north Macho Taco separates itself from the rest of herd for their noticeably colorful tacos this South Side hidden gem is really worth trying Macho Taco stands tall with their beer-battered whitefish tacos and an array of aiolis and mayos that top their char-grilled chicken and steak tacos for a visual treat that accompanies their equally colorful taste 13 Instagrammable Dishes in Chicago That Are Actually Delicious The South Side community that once housed meatpackers now produces coffee known as “the Yards,” was once the center of Chicago’s meatpacking industry immortalized in Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle Many of the workers in the slaughterhouses and packing plants lived in the neighborhood directly south The stockyard closed in 1971 and was converted into an industrial park where today manufacturers churn out tortillas and chicken sausages Back of the Yards today resembles many industrial Rust Belt cities that have lost their main industry Swaths of shopping centers surround a shrinking central business district and press coverage generally focuses on all the things the neighborhood is not and young people who grew up in the neighborhood have chosen to stay and put down roots in the form of businesses of their own is one of the South Side’s prettiest parks The population of Back of the Yards is mostly Latinx now which are mostly concentrated on Ashland Avenue and 47th Street Founded by two entrepreneurs who grew up in the neighborhood Back of the Yards Coffeehouse was originally intended to be the public face of their coffee roastery it was apparent that it had become a neighborhood hub in its own right: a showcase for local artists and musicians and a popular hangout for students at Back of the Yards College Prep across the street Where to Drink Chicago’s Most Heartwarming Hot Chocolates This employee-owned coffee company produces just one roast — medium with a blend of beans from Brazil and Colombia — and exports it to grocery stores throughout the city but visitors can also stop by the small cafe inside the roastery and get a cup of fresh brew A post shared by Sputnik Coffee Company (@sputnikcoffeeco) The neighborhood’s source for American-style fast food, Garfield Gyros serves gyros, hot dogs, grilled cheese, and pizza, as well as breakfast sandwiches. The gyros grilled cheese impressed writer Titus Ruscitti A post shared by DeRon Fred Kruger Jones (@fredkrugertnb) and La Cecina Restaurant serves theirs Guerrero-style with a choice of sauces and accompaniments A post shared by La Cecina Restaurante (@lacecinarestaurante) Also known as Back of the Yards Protein Bar this smoothie cafe offers customers three separate levels of colorful energy drinks depending on how much of an extra boost they feel they need A post shared by Back Of The Yards Protein Bar (@lety_fitdance) Atotonilco Taqueria serves tacos made with freshly grilled meat and tortillas from its own factory on the next block, but it’s best known for its milkshake maker, Juan Alberto Chávez, a bona fide neighborhood celebrity known to all as El Señor de los Licuados. (For more, read this profile in South Side Weekly.) This quiet little spot a few blocks from the Swap-O-Rama Flea Market serves comforting Mexican dishes like tacos but the real wonder is its large covered patio The stretch of 43rd Street immediately south of the stockyard was once known as Whiskey Row because it was lined with taverns where workers would stop on their way home to drink away their sorrows after a day on the killing floor but Stanley’s continues to serve lunch on weekdays A post shared by Eric Allix Rogers (@ericallixrogers) cheerful spot hides behind a drab storefront In the back of this supermarket is Paco’s Tacos a taco stand that has become so celebrated for its carne asada that it’s opened up two more standalone locations The supermarket also stocks excellent carnitas A post shared by Paco's Tacos/La Internacional (@pacos_tacos_chicago) It’s easy to walk past this carry-out Vietnamese spot on Ashland but those who venture inside will find savory and delicious noodles and banh mi sandwiches prepared to order and with their specified degree of spiciness Slightly more upscale than the typical taqueria and seafood — its specialty — as well as hearty breakfasts A post shared by Omar Jiron (@omar.jiron) the Plant was converted in 2010 into a vertical farm that houses a number of small food businesses and farms Check the website for more information about farmer’s markets and curbside pickup A post shared by The Plant (@insidetheplant) Located in the Plant, a food business incubator, Whiner specializes in barrel-aged beer and kombucha and plans to use its spent grain to feed the anaerobic digester that powers the building The taproom serves pizza Thursday through Sundays A post shared by Whiner Beer Co (@whinerbeer) Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page.