Day of the Dead is arguably the most dynamic
unique and spectacular showcase of Mexican culture
I’ve spent the last several years enjoying the colorful celebration in Mexico City and
it just doesn’t quite capture the family element I’ve been looking for
I decided in September that this would be the year that I’d hit the road in search of golder pastures
heading to a place that represented both sides of the coin: artistic creation and authentic reverence
one of Mexico’s most culturally rich states and home to Atlixco
Absolutely dripping in marigolds and Day of the Dead decor
this Pueblo Mágico regularly draws tourists for its year-round warm and humid climate
It’s about a 30-minute drive from Puebla city and boasts magnificent views of the surrounding mountains
including the beloved Popocatépetl volcano
Late October is a particularly attractive time of year to visit
as Atlixcans truly go all out for the holiday
The Valle de Catrinas project started in 2021 with five giant skeleton statues adorning various streets and strategic corners of town
that number has jumped to 15 fantastical figures representing important figures in Mexico’s history
who ruled Mexico in the late 19th and early 20th centuries leading up to the Mexican Revolution
Revolutionary leader Pancho Villa was also represented
with a very literal homage to his nickname
hotels and restaurants showcased not just catrinas
but also elaborate altars for visitors to enjoy
Atlixco’s popularity as a wedding destination led locals to create “La novia de Atlixco,” or the bride of Atlixco
stylish catrina greets visitors at the entrance of Casa de la Audiencia
a 16th-century building that now serves as an upscale hotel
visitors uncovered a hidden altar at Xolo Mezcalería
Artist Omar Rangel’s monumental altar at Molino de San Mateo wasn’t just a creative masterpiece – it included an interactive screen for visitors to project photos of their loved ones
Rangel also constructed a 5-meter-tall altar made solely of bread
Just a 40-minute ride away is the charming town of Huaquechula
visitors can follow the journey of a soul from death to the afterlife
where “causes of death” are written on simple grave markers
This poor soul seems to have suffered dire consequences after some WhatsApp messages came to light
Souls make their way along the river Apanohuaia on small
dodging potential dangers with the help of the small but mighty Xolo dog
This is just one of nine harrowing stages the dead must pass in order to reach the afterlife
A golden path of flowers insinuates that the afterlife has successfully been reached
Some homes were open for the public to enter and pay their respects
I couldn’t leave without climbing Mirador de Cristal on Cerro de San Miguel
I left my hotel on the outskirts of the Zócalo and made my way uphill
Parroquia de Santa María de la Natividad is a few blocks away from Atlixco’s main square and looks like an elaborately-decorated cake
The arts and crafts market takes over a small alley just off the Zocalo
is full of shops and eating establishments
all which were decorated to the nines for the holiday
Atlixco is quite lovely to stroll before 9:00 a.m
many created by local artist Juan Manuel Martínez Caltenco
The uphill walk to the Mirador Cristal is lined with scenic views and beautiful flowers
you can Uber about 30 minutes to the center of Atlixco
you can take the ADO bus line from TAPO to CAPU
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in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Disaster Risk Reduction (UNDRR)
and Territorial Planning of the State of Puebla (SMADSOT)
and the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) in Mexico
has launched the Local Action Plan for Cultural Heritage Resilience
This pioneering plan aims to safeguard and strengthen the resilience of Atlixco's cultural heritage
a significant tourist destination that welcomes approximately 1.2 million visitors annually
officially presented after the workshop "Towards Cultural Heritage Resilience in the State of Puebla" held on March 31
is the first of its kind globally to use the Scorecard self-assessment tool
This innovative tool allows for the identification of gaps and opportunities
and the promotion of community participation in integrating specific measures into territorial planning instruments
The “Municipal Resilience Program of Atlixco” is structured around three main pillars
The first focuses on building an updated and sustainable municipality by integrating cultural heritage into the Municipal Development Plan (PMD)
the Municipal Urban Development Program (PMDU)
The second pillar aims to strengthen governance processes by improving communication and coordination between municipal sectors to enhance response to threats
the third pillar promotes participatory analysis and mapping to identify the exposure and vulnerability of cultural heritage and update the Risk Atlas to take appropriate mitigation and adaptation measures
Head of the UNDRR – Regional Office for the Americas and the Caribbean
noted: “Guided by the Sendai Framework for Disaster Risk Reduction 2015-2030
this plan integrates specific measures into planning instruments
promoting community participation and respect for Atlixco’s rich cultural heritage
Advancing the implementation of this Action Plan will not only serve to protect Atlixco's cultural heritage but also lay the foundations for a safer and culturally richer future.”
The Local Action Plan for Cultural Heritage Resilience of Atlixco represents a collective effort towards the municipality's resilience and sets a significant precedent for the protection and conservation of cultural heritage throughout the region
This document is a testament to Atlixco’s commitment to institutionalizing practices that strengthen municipal resilience and protect its rich cultural heritage
which proposes to “protect or support the protection of cultural and collection institutions and other historically
understand that the risks we face are reduced when there is planning
and resilient development processes that allow us to better safeguard our cultural heritage.”
developed with the valuable cooperation of SMADSOT
is a testament to Atlixco’s commitment to institutionalizing practices that strengthen municipal resilience and protect its rich cultural heritage.
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Home » Videos » LIVE: Good Friday procession in Mexico (Video)
Watch live as Mexicans march in a religious procession to mark Good Friday in the city of Atlixco
Residents of a Mexican town decided to take justice into their own hands after catching three men accused of kidnapping and robbing a girl in the small town of Atzitzihuacán
the lynching occurred during the afternoon on Dec
In a statement sent out by the Puebla government
officials confirmed that the three men "died after being detained and lynched by residents for the alleged robbery and kidnapping of a minor." They added that agencies are working to find out what exactly happened and reiterated that "any crime committed will be punished according to the laws in place."
Despite multiple reports involving the incident
the identity of the three men killed by the angry mob has not been revealed
Although no official reports have confirmed it
local media says the three men tried to kidnap a five-year-old girl
Around 300 people reportedly participated in the lynching
Images shared on social media depict the bodies hanging off utility poles and with signs of torture
Civilians taking extreme approaches such as lynchings is not new in Mexico
Experts say the perception of impunity leads communities to take justice into their own hands
According to data collected by doctors Raúl Rodríguez Guillén and Norma Ilse Veloz Ávila
political sociology faculty members at the Autonomous Metropolitan University (UAM)
a total of 1,619 lynchings took place in Mexico between 2016 and 2022
Although most cases are centralized in rural areas
the issue has quickly spread to more urban areas in Central Mexico
74% of all lynchings during that period took place in six states (Puebla
179 lynchings were reported throughout Mexico
according to data complied by the study "Horror Gallery: atrocities and huge impact events," out of which most of them took place in Puebla (27)
Mexico's National Human Rights Commission (CNDH) has previously stated that lynchings are "illicit acts" that are the representation of a self-distrust crisis that reflects the lack of trust within society towards authorities
Recent incidents are an example of that mistrust
as residents of rural communities continue relying on vigilantism
four men were lynched and then burned in the city of Atlixco
by a crowd that accused them of stealing a vehicle
A similar incident took place in the city of Taxco
when a woman accused of murdering an eight-year-old girl was lynched along two other men suspected by locals to be involved in the crime
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A year after the pandemic led authorities in the city of Atlixco
to cancel its famous Christmas lights walking tour
streets and walls are once again strung with countless lights
attracting visitors from all across Mexico
where you can buy your live Christmas poinsettias
According to Alejandro Pérez López at the city’s tourism office
one million people attended the event in 2019
it’s expected to be well attended this year
but there are precautions being taken to protect people’s health
The lights on the trees and buildings in Atlixco’s zócalo — including the municipal palace and the Natividad de Nuestra Señora church — are turned on around 5:30 p.m
the route wends its way up Hidalgo avenue for a short distance
the street lit by colorful flowers hanging overhead
before continuing along 16 de Septiembre street
Don’t worry if you’re as directionally challenged as I am: the route’s well-marked
there are few turns and all you really have to do is follow the lights and the crowd
it’s a good idea to wear comfortable shoes and also to stay alert: most but not all of the route has been blocked off (although some motorcyclists chose to ignore this part) but the cross streets are open to traffic
But it’s worth the little precautions: several of the streets have been turned into colorful tunnels with snowflakes
at a plaza named Plazuela de la Danza about halfway up Cerro de San Miguel (St
there’s a large gingerbread house featuring an illuminated flower
there’s a performance by Payaso Chimbombin Junior
“Chimbombin is a character with Mexican humor,” said Jorge Alberto Guerra Moreno
“The character was created … when I was four years old when — with my father
who is a clown — we started a comic clown duo.”
Guerra put “Junior” in his group’s name to honor his father
There are nine performers and technicians in the group
There’s also a bit of audience participation
so if you’re averse to that sort of thing as I am
“What I like [about audience participation] is that people dare to come … and they liberate their collective fears,” Guerra said
“I like the laughter.” There was plenty of that on the night I attended
Strolling to the end of the Villa Iluminada takes a bit over an hour
and it’s easy to work up a thirst and an appetite
It seemed like almost every other house along the route has turned a room into a small restaurant
Daniél Guillermo García was offering ponche (punch)
a delicious hot drink that helps warm you as the temperatures dip during the night
García was initially reluctant to reveal his secret recipe
he did at least give up a list of ingredients
“You have to know how to prepare it,” he said
The fruit is the most important part so that the ponche does not get watered down.”
Another hot drink — my personal favorite — is chile atole
spices and pretty much any kind of chile the cook likes
The most popular choice in Puebla is probably poblano chiles
you’re somewhat obsessed with chile atole — or just want to be able to try it — be sure to buy yours early: the first three stands I stopped at had run out by the time I wanted mine
Every family has its own recipe for ponche and chile atole
you’ll be happy to know that there is also a plethora of bathrooms available for a mere 5 pesos
There are also plenty of options for heartier fare
tortas (hearty sandwiches) and gorditas available along the way
Four tostadas and two ponches set us back US $7
possibly because of the significant police presence
“There is a police officer every 100 meters [a little over 300 feet],” said Max Saavedra
he and other municipal officers work double shifts
“This is good because I can use the extra money for Christmas,” he said
17 plant vendors were displaying their poinsettias at the Feria de Nochebuena
Red ones typically account for 75% of sales
the nochebuena was used as medicine,” he said
In addition to bringing some much-needed Christmas cheer
the Villa Iluminada has a major economic impact on Atlixco: according to the state’s website
the event generates about 320 million pesos (US $15 million)
Be aware that there’s some confusion surrounding the event this year because there are actually two simultaneous events: the free Villa Illuminada tour starts in Atlixco’s zocalo and a different event called BrillaFest costs between 150 and 600 pesos (US $7 to US $30)
• The Villa Iluminada tour runs through January 9
The Feria de Nochebuena plant fair runs through December 12 and is open from 10 a.m
• Payaso Chimbombin Junior’s performances take place Monday–Thursday at 7:30 p.m
The Huei Atlixcáyotl festival
Puebla’s huge event of traditional dance that takes place every September in Atlixco
has roots in the pre-Hispanic Nahuatl peoples of the area
but it wouldn’t exist today if not for a New Yorker
To say Cayuqui Estage Noel has had an interesting and peripatetic life would be a gross understatement
Born Raymond Harvey Estage Noel in Buffalo
and except for a couple of trips to New York to earn money and a few others to Guatemala
acting and anthropology — the latter subject with Margaret Mead — taught any number of topics
he was named a “Tesoro Humano Vivo” (Living Human Treasure) by the municipal government in Atlixco for his role in bringing the festival into existence in 1965
After seeing the traditional Guelaguetza festival in Oaxaca
he was inspired to create a venue for Puebla’s traditional dance
He worked with representatives of Atlixco to arrange the city’s first Atlixcáyotl by visiting surrounding villages and convincing locals to perform in the event he was helping arrange
which the state government named in 1996 as part of Puebla’s cultural patrimony
is a popular Atlixco event that was just celebrated again this past Sunday for another year
While the state government spells the event as the Huey Atlixacáyotl
Estage insists that it should be spelled Huei Atlixcáyotl
was recently named a tesoro humano vivo (living human treasure) by Atlixco’s municipal government
But he’s probably best known in Mexico for organizing the festival
Estage originally had no intention of staying in Atlixco the first time he saw it
The information about Mexico was that it was [filled with] vaqueros (cowboys) and that wasn’t very interesting
cities lost in the jungles — that interested me
Guatemala was where he got the name Cayuqui: he was trying to sell a boat to some locals
and his Spanish was pretty much nonexistent at the time
he dropped his first two given names and replaced them with Cayuqui
he met a young man from Atlixco who invited him to visit
“I rented a house up on the hill,” he said
I bought an oil lamp; I thought it was very romantic
I bought my water from an old man who brought two oil cans of water
Estage’s house in Atlixco was ransacked
An old woman who had been in the [Mexican] Revolution — she cooked for [Álvaro] Obregón
knew [revolutionary] Pancho Villa — she told me about the customs of old Atlixco
this is incredible that these people exist
We have nothing this fabulous in Puebla.’”
dancers from all over the state of Oaxaca converge on the city of Oaxaca in July
When he started visiting villages around the state
“The dances in the villages were much more interesting than what was in the Guelaguetza
I became dissatisfied with the Guelaguetza
but it inspired me to start the Atlixcáyotl.”
He returned to Atlixco and started talking with people in the nearby villages
“No one in Atlixco was interested in going [there],” he said
there are people who have gone to Disneyland
but they don’t know the villages around here.”
he brought the dancers he’d met in the villages to Atlixco for the first iteration of the festival
Atlixcáyotl is Nahuatl for either “the Great Fiesta of Atlixco,” or “the Tradition of Atlixco.” “We have about 17 or 18 groups that perform,” Estage said
“and each group has at least 20 people — between 20 and 40.”
The dances aren’t truly pre-Hispanic
“There’s nothing pre-Hispanic today except in the museums
but they are influenced by European music and dance.”
in a little house made of sticks and mud and with a dirt floor and a palm roof — a place in which he’s perfectly content
He was a little vague on his role in the Atlixco festival this year
But he is adamant about what the Atlixcáyotl should be
he revels in the informality the event still has
To see a dog on stage to me is something very good.”
He’s lived in Mexico now for almost 70 years
and he didn’t hesitate when asked what it was that attracted him to — and keeps him in — Mexico
I think they’re the happiest people in the world
The best decision of my life was to leave the United States and live here.”
Estage says he has everything he needs in Mexico
They didn’t get paid very much money but you didn’t need very much money
It seems like the man who renamed himself Cayuqui was born in the wrong era
that he’d be just as happy — or happier — in a small pre-Hispanic village
learning traditions and dances from the village elders and swapping stories with them
Mexican authorities have raised alert levels following an increase in the activity of the Popocatépetl volcano and for a while airports halted flights. Popocatépetl (meaning ‘Smoking Hill’ in the native Aztec language Nahuatl) is one of the world’s most closely monitored volcanoes. It rises only about 72km southwest of Mexico City, home to about 9 million people, or around 22 million including the metropolitan area
Photograph: Héctor Adolfo Quintanar Pérez/ZUMA Press Wire/Shutterstock
Photograph: Cristopher Rogel Blanquet/Getty Images
Print SANTIAGO XALITZINTLA
residents of this village tucked at the base of one of the world’s most dangerous volcanoes trek up to a cave near its crater to make a peace offering
flowers and turkey cooked in sweet mole are meant to placate Popocatépetl
the nearly 18,000-foot-high volcano viewed by many here not just as a geological wonder
but also as a mythological being whose whims have long shaped the lives of those in its shadows
These days, the consensus among villagers is clear: Popocatépetl isn’t happy.
For months now, the volcano has been spewing molten rock and shooting massive columns of ash into the sky.
The eruptions have grown bigger and more frequent in recent weeks — rattling homes with wheezing exhalations that residents compare to steam escaping from a pressure cooker. Bone-gray ash blankets everything: cars, crops and even the dogs that beg for scraps in the streets.
World & Nation
hundreds of gay cowboys gather in Zacatecas for a convention that celebrates sexual freedom and romanticizes Mexico’s rural past
The sheer quantity of ash — a mixture of rock
mineral and glass particles from deep inside the volcano — has prompted officials to ground thousands of flights at airports in nearby Mexico City and Puebla and to suspend school in nearly two dozen municipalities
officials raised the volcano threat level to “Yellow Phase 3,” which calls for those who live nearest to the volcano — including the 2,000 residents of Santiago Xalitzintla — to prepare for possible evacuation
Although the volcano appears to be more active now than it has been in the last two decades
there is no indication that catastrophic eruption is underway
a volcanologist at the Geophysics Institute of the National Autonomous University of Mexico
It has been centuries since the volcano last expelled a significant flow of lava
the volcano’s long history of destructive explosions and the 24 million people who reside within 60 miles of its crater make Popocatépetl an acute threat
Scientists are monitoring seismic activity
testing the chemical content of the ash and probing other metrics that predict volcanic activity
The federal government has mobilized 7,000 troops in case an evacuation becomes necessary
As geology fans gape at video feeds that show incandescent rocks blowing from El Popo’s peak, those who live along its flanks have watched with respect and a noteworthy lack of trepidation.
Soldiers patrol as ash from the Popocatépetl volcano blankets the streets of Santiago Xalitzintla, Mexico. (Marco Ugarte / Associated Press) Residents went on with their scheduled celebration of a saint’s day over the weekend, dancing to a live band as flurries of ash fell, dusting the streets with what looked like snow.
And although many complain of sore throats, coughs and irritated eyes, they have mostly continued tilling the earth, tending their horses and otherwise going about life as usual.
“We’re used to it,” said Nazario Galicia, an 81-year-old farmer who on a recent afternoon was feeding his donkeys even as truckloads of national guard troops descended on the village to sweep up ash. “Our grandparents lived with the volcano, and their grandparents lived with it too.”
Two people wear hoodies and masks to shield themselves from the ash emitted by the Popocatépetl volcano in Atlixco, Mexico, on May 22, 2023. The volcano’s activity has increased over the last week. (Marco Ugarte / Associated Press) Like many people here, Galicia believes the volcano is a kind of deity — they call him Don Goyo — whose behavior is closely linked to human activity.
Galicia wondered whether the powerful eruptions in recent days were occurring because townsfolk had been unable to bring their annual offering this spring, when milder bursts from the volcano ruled out an ascent. Or maybe, he said, the volcano was responding to current events, airing its discontent with Mexico’s high levels of violence and corruption.
A woman sweeps ash from the Popocatépetl volcano in Santiago Xalitzintla, Mexico. (Marco Ugarte / Associated Press) Popocatépetl and a nearby volcano, the relatively dormant Iztaccihuatl, have loomed large in Mexican mythology since at least the time of Aztecs.
Despite spiraling violence and a stagnating economy
Mexican President Andrés Manuel López Obrador has maintained sky-high approval ratings because he speaks to the working poor
they were formed after ill-fated lovers — the warrior Popocatepetl and the princess Iztaccihuatl — died tragic deaths and were turned into stone
Popocatépetl’s explosions have displaced humans in the past
Archaeologists say a pre-Hispanic settlement not far from Santiago Xalitzintla was buried twice by ash long before the Europeans arrived in Mexico
The volcano was dormant for about half of the last century but rumbled back to life with a series of relatively small eruptions beginning in the 1990s
adopting new practices such as covering water and food supplies for farm animals to prevent contamination from falling ash
have embraced a kind of steely humor to cope with living alongside an ever-present threat
Residents of Santiago Xalitzintla
a village at the base of the Popocatépetl volcano
trek up to a cave near its gaping crater to make a peace offering
“We hope it calms down,” said Juana Hernández
as she finished off her tacos near the town’s plaza one afternoon this week
“Maybe we should sacrifice one of our men,” she said
The friends said they haven’t slept much in recent days
villagers gather outside in the cold to watch eruptions light up the night sky
Many children are scared of the pyrotechnics
Some had urged their parents to find them a new place to live
scratchy eyes and worry that her family’s fruit trees might not survive the volcano’s blowing debris
De Los Santos said she couldn’t imagine living anywhere else
After all, in this part of Mexico so prone to natural disasters — where earthquakes can level apartment buildings in seconds — there’s a certain pride that comes with living in proximity to danger
the 64-year-old owner of a hat shop in the next town over
said life is more exciting under a volcano
“The day there’s no eruption,” he said as he whisked ash from several white cowboy hats
Cecilia Sánchez Vidal in The Times’ Mexico City bureau contributed to this report
Kate Linthicum is a foreign correspondent for the Los Angeles Times based in Mexico City.
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At least nine people were killed and one gravely injured at a shooting in Puebla in the early morning on Wednesday
Six men and three women were gunned down inside a house in the Francisco I
Another man was shot three times and taken to hospital
An argument could be heard in the house before the shootings started
Governor Miguel Barbosa said the mass homicide was caused by a dispute between people involved with selling drugs
the place where these people were killed was a place for the distribution and sale of drugs … So far
the information does not reveal the identity of those executed
they are not from Atlixco nor are they from Puebla … It was an execution between gangs
people who came to Atlixco to commit crimes of drug dealing,” he said
Barbosa added that the killings were a cause for concern
with very well-defined convictions about the role that the authorities should play in these events.”
The governor added that agents from the National Kidnapping Commission would travel to Atlixco to investigate the killings
five people were killed last Thursday in Chalchicomula de Sesma
Barbosa said the four men and one woman killed had all been engaged in criminal activity
With reports from Reforma
In your list of activities for the Day of the Dead you can't miss a trip to Puebla to see this year's giant catrinas
They are a spectacle that you must visit 💀
The works measure between 5 and 8 meters in height and will be located in different parts of the municipality; most of them located in the Cabrera area
As in each edition the designs follow a theme
that of 2024 are historical characters of Mexico such as:
💀 Malinche 🏵️ Morelos 💀 María Sabina 🏵️ Pípila 💀 Miguel Hidalgo 🏵️ Cuauhtémoc 💀 Zapata 🏵️ Porfirio Díaz 💀 Juan Escutia 🏵️ Viajero 💀 Tecuan 🏵️ Pancho Villa
a megaofrenda will be set up at the Jardín Histórico el Molino de San Mateo
There will also be pieces that will arrive in Los Angeles and Italy
it is estimated that there will be 600 thousand spectators of these beauties
If you are planning to get to Atlixco by car (starting from downtown Mexico City)
take into account that the estimated time to get there is ⌛1 .58 hours
🚗Santa Martha Acatitla/Entronque San Martin Texmelucan – $156
🚗Entronque San Martín Texmelucan/Entronque Periférico Puebla – $48
Get everything ready to make a short trip to this monumental exhibition
A Christmas village in Puebla may be the closest thing to a northern Christmas that exists in Mexico
the city of Atlixco boasts the largest arrangement of colored lights in Mexico at an event called the Villa Iluminada (Lighted Village)
boasts millions of Christmas lights strung up on over two kilometers of old buildings public and private
Many of the lights are set up on over 2,000 figures related to the Christmas season
the event includes attractions not necessarily related to Christmas as those from the north know it
One is the Árbol de los Deseos (Wish Tree) where you can leave messages about what you would like for Christmas
a backdrop for professing your undying affection to that special someone
One of the highlights of this period is the Desfile de Nikolaus (Nicholas Parade)
based on a variant of the Saint Nicholas story
a young girl was playing with a box when Nicholas
saw her through the window and was curious
He asked her what she was doing with the box and she said
“Playing with my doll.” But the box was empty
The girl also told him that the Three Wise Men could not bring gifts to all children and she was one who did not receive a gift
the girl opened her box to find a real doll
The parade to honor this legend features floats and people in costume and marching bands
Another major attraction is the Magic Circus
There is an entrance fee for the parade of between 165 and 270 pesos
but it includes access to a pavilion featuring local and gourmet food
the event is the most important tourist attraction for the municipality
and is expected to bring in over 50 million pesos (US $2.57 million)
This year’s event runs from November 22 to January 6
More information can be found on the event’s website (in Spanish)
Source: El Universal (sp), El Sol de Puebla (sp)
Mexico City residents often forget that they live nearly on the doorstep of one of the world’s most dangerous volcanoes
The city’s infamous smog rarely allows even a glimpse
But Popocatépetl has dominated the geography
and its recent activity makes experts and the government nervous
Popocatépetl is both exceedingly majestic and dangerous
Its name comes from Nahuatl and means “smoking mountain.”
The Florentine Codex notes that even decades after the imposition of Catholicism on the native peoples in the area
pilgrimages to both petition and appease the volcano continued
the volcano is often called simply “(El) Popo” and “Don Goyo.” The first is a shortening of the difficult Nahuatl
is probably from an early colonial renaming of the mountain
it comes from the appearance of an old man near the town of Santiago Xalitzintla
who introduced himself as Gregorio Chino Popocatépetl and is believed to be the spirit of the mountain
the volcano continues to receive offerings and pilgrimages today
just now in the guise of Saint Gregory’s feast day
Popocatépetl appears in numerous artworks from the region
and is featured in the English-language novel “Under the Volcano” (1947) by Malcolm Lawry
If you have seen the image of an Aztec warrior carrying a limp maiden
it is a reference to a “Romeo and Juliet”-like story that explains why Popo is active and its “partner” volcano
Most modern humans generally dismiss the supernatural
but I’ll mention here that Popocatépetl’s crater is the focus of stories of UFOs that may have a base within
Don Goyo may no longer command worship — but it still should be respected
but none have such a population density living so nearby
Popocatépetl is an active stratovolcano — like Hawaii’s Mauna Loa and Indonesia’s Krakatoa — and it’s the second tallest active volcano in North America (5,425 meters)
It and Iztaccihuatl separate the Valleys of Mexico and Puebla
archeological finds and written records evidence the volcano’s impact on them (us)
An eruption is believed to have spurred migrations that resulted in Teotihuacán
Eruptions have been recorded as early as the 1300s
Hernán Cortés was impressed by the two volcanoes
describing them as “…two marvelously high mountains whose summits at the end of August are still covered with snow so that nothing else can be seen of them
a great volume of smoke often comes forth…”
Popocatépetl has had 15 significant eruptions
but none (yet) have had major destructive consequences
One reason is that its last plinian eruption (i.e
extremely explosive — think Mount Vesuvius in A.D
when the valleys did not have the population density they have now
The area around the Popocatépetl and Iztaccihuatl volcanoes is the Izta-Popo National Park
but unlike parks in the United States and Canada
a column of smoke from El Popo has been visible on most days
There is always the risk of a major eruption
Hugo Delgado Granados of the Geophysics Institute of UNAM
Such an eruption could obliterate everything within 15 km and cause serious damage as far as 100 km away — a radius that’s home to about 25 million
And urbanization is creeping up the slopes as Mexico City and Puebla continue to grow
there is a 12-km exclusion zone around the crater because of fallout
Popocatépetl has caused some headaches for airlines
but more ash accumulation could snarl land traffic as well — and if rain is involved
the resulting sludge would clog drainage systems
Lava from Popocatépetl’s crater is not a major threat
There is plenty of magma under the valleys
but their danger comes from small “pop-up” volcanoes (like Paricutín in Western Michoacán)
Volcanoes like Popocatépetl can give some warning of an upcoming eruption
warning systems and evacuation plans are essential to prevent tragedies
Mexico’s main warning system is a stoplight-like advisory system called the semáforo de alerta volcánica
which currently is in yellow (caution) — Phase 2
the general advisory has been as high as yellow-3 (the status just before red)
Today, it is possible to see what Popocatépetl is up to 24/7. Popocatépetl’s crater is a favorite of Webcams de México
where you can look at it anytime and receive alerts in social media when something interesting happens
Although evacuation routes are well-marked
a major evacuation would be challenging at best
both because of the number of people and due to the fact that the Valley of Mexico is crowded
Could Mexico evacuate everyone in time in the worst-case scenario
Delgado Granados says that there are many factors to consider but also that monitoring systems and evacuation plans are being constantly upgraded
Mexico was able to evacuate 70,000 people in less than three days
despite being caught relatively by surprise
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
Santa Maria Tonantzintla was set to be one of Mexico’s first smart cities – but residents saw it as an attempt to westernise their town and leave tradition behind
Lupita Tecual Porquillo had heard a rumour that the plaza was going to be “remodelled”. The 51-year-old grocery store owner lives around the corner from the centre of Santa Maria Tonantzintla, a sleepy town in the state of Puebla, about three hours from Mexico City
She assumed “remodelling” meant repairing the plaza’s centuries-old cobblestone pavement
In November 2017, heavy machinery arrived to tear out the characteristic cobblestones and replace them with smooth, uniform stone tiles. On 11 January, Tecual Porquillo discovered the municipality had also knocked down the clock tower and stucco bridge – both beloved landmarks in the central plaza.
Rumours spread among the residents of Tonantzintla. They heard that a gourmet market would open along the plaza, that ticket booths would appear outside the church to charge for entry, that a building would be demolished to make room for a parking lot for tourists. Some even said that religious processions – a crucial part of civic life – would no longer pass through the plaza.
Read moreA meeting for affected residents later revealed that Tonantzintla was to become part of a pilot project: smart cities
Last year Puebla’s governor José Antonio Gali Fayad announced a statewide Barrio Smart (smart city) initiative in conjunction with the organisation Alianza Smart Latam
the project has “the objective of constructing spaces that benefit citizens through the implementation of technology”
speed sensors for cars and free internet access
But in being presented with this futuristic-sounding vision
it appears that residents of Santa Maria Tonantzintla found themselves caught in a conflict repeated the world over
between centuries-old customs and new development trends
“We see [smart cities] becoming a society for the people
in which citizens actively identify issues in their city.”
In Tonantzintla the smart cities proposal became a lightning rod for those concerned about a development that seemed to favour outsiders rather than residents
so we don’t have to go all the way to Puebla [city] to go out,” Tecual Porquillo says
Residents like Tecual Porquillo don’t understand the true goal of the project
who was involved in the design on behalf of the municipality’s secretary of public works
“The purpose was to order the urban spaces so that they would function correctly,” he says
The tourist buses that pass through Tonantzintla for brief stints each day bring little economic benefit for the town as a whole – the tourists file into the church
had to do with improving the streets to better regulate vehicle flow and expanding the plaza to allow for more space for local events
View image in fullscreenThe smart city plans in Tonantzintla were formed to benefit the community
Photograph: Madeleine Wattenbarger“This was all so that the community would benefit,” Campos says
the municipality turned the publicity of the project over to local authorities who represent the interests of residents
But Tecual Porquillo says the municipality organised a consultation meeting involving just 15 or 20 residents – not a representative sample
The failure of communication and understanding between the municipality
planners and locals cuts to the heart of conflicts around urban development: how can planners achieve local buy-in
and how can residents truly play a role in determining what happens to their cities
Like the vast majority of Latin American towns from the colonial era to the present
civically and culturally – is a church set on a plaza
Tonantzintla’s church is particularly notable
The interior is covered with elaborate gilded carvings
in a style that fuses the baroque decorations of the late 17th century with indigenous carvings
Tonantzintla’s residents take enormous pride in the church
The town is deeply tied to its Catholic and indigenous traditions
so even superficial changes like the repaving of the old cobblestone roads signify a departure from culture and identity
The smart city proposal – which insinuated that the way things had been was now somehow inadequate – touched a nerve
it’s because you don’t love your rootsMercedes Tecuapetla QuecholMercedes Tecuapetla Quechol
attributes the changes to a sort of cultural racism
Mexicans call this phenomenon malinchismo: a feeling that the foreign
“They are ashamed of their roots,” Tecuapetla Quechol says
“They saw something they liked in the United States or in Europe
Within weeks of the smart city’s construction
a group of residents brought complaints against the initiative
After discovering that the municipality hadn’t secured the necessary permits from the National Institute of Anthropology and History
they filed an injunction that put the project on hold and finally caused the municipality to cancel it
I miss the bridge and the clock,” she says
“They think this is what tourists want.” After passing through the church and snapping photos of the plaza
the visitors return to the bus and drive away to continue on their circuit around Cholula
Later that afternoon a priest leads a procession of 10 or 15 people through the plaza
A woman scatters flower petals and together a few men support the shrine of a saint
Several musicians playing drums and brass instruments follow behind
“This is Tonantzintla,” Tecuapetla Quechol says
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A powerful earthquake
It was centered southeast of Mexico City in the state of Puebla and caused heavy and prolonged shaking across central Mexico
Though the epicenter was about 100 miles from Mexico City
At least 19 children were killed when a wing of the private school collapsed
Rescuers worked atop a collapsed building in La Roma
Rescuers and volunteers at a collapsed building in La Condesa asked for silence so they could hear trapped victims
Portions of a high-rise building’s facade sheared off during the earthquake
soldiers and volunteers removed rubble and debris from a flattened building in search for survivors
The workers attempted to break through the rubble to reach anyone who was trapped
Bricks and windows fell from the facade of a building in the capital
Sandwiched between the rubble of a damaged building was what appeared to be a mattress
Buildings like this one were among the structures that were heavily damaged in the earthquake
A toppled facade crushed a car in the city
A building in the Narvarte neighborhood was destroyed in the earthquake
A full view of the Narvarte building’s remains
Marina Franco contributed reporting from Mexico City
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