Coatepec is a Náhuatl word that means The Hill of the Snakes
there have been excavations in and around Coatepec revealing that the area was originally settled by the Totonac people
Though there are no ruins open to the public
the town does have around 370 buildings that are considered “historically significant” – many with beautifully painted exteriors – a tree-filled zócalo (square)
The heart of the pueblo is the Parque Hidalgo
While sitting in a café across from the park we noticed a group dancing
what was really unusual was that they were all blondes
The group of dancers was DGI Copenhagen’s Representation Team
“We are visiting Mexico to do shows and teach,” said Julie Lykke
They were taking part in a gymnastics festival that was being held in Coatepec and were performing in the park to show people that “gymnastics and dancing are for everyone,” she added
There always seems to be something unexpected happening – no matter where you go – in Mexico
There’s a kiosk in the park with a café that’s a great spot to sip coffee
Nearby is a small monument honoring María Enriqueta Camarill y Roa de Pereyra
a writer who was born in Coatepec and was nominated for the Nobel Prize in 1951
you’ll find many small carts offering snacks
Across from the park is the beautiful Parroquia de San Jerónimo
The church was founded by the Franciscans in 1684
but it wasn’t until 1806 that its construction was finished
there are several statues of saints and virgins
A half block from the park is Robertina la Casa de Chocolate
a shop featuring over 150 types of chocolates
“All of the chocolates are made here in the pueblo
It is a family business started fifteen years ago by Coatepecanos (people from Coatepec).” Quitano was eager to dole out sample after sample of the chocolates
Coatepec is also famous for its orchids and holds a second title: Mexico’s Orchid Capital
A trip to the Museo de Orquídeas is a must
“There are 1,400 species of orchids in Mexico and 315 in Veracruz,” said Carlos Montaño Gracia
there are 25,000 species.” The museum’s large room has walls
and stands covered with orchids – 5,000 in total from 3,000 species
why he thought people should visit Coatepec
“But the best reason to visit Coatepec is [to see] the orchids.”
On the second floor of the museum is a rooftop café named Mr
Pombacho which offers a lovely view of the pueblo and the surrounding mountains
“We offer seven types of pambazos,” said Habid Ocotla
“We only use bread from local bakeries because they have the exact size and consistency we want.”
We bumped into Hernandez on the way out and mentioned we were looking for a bakery to buy some rolls
Walking into the bakery is like walking into the past
dimly lit rooms with huge wood-burning stoves crank out hundreds of cookies
“The bakery opened in 1883,” said Oswaldo Ruiz
a family member overseeing operations that day
“Six or eight generations have worked here.” The bakery is open from 4:30 in the morning until 11 at night
“But we only bake at 11 and 12 during the day and 6 and 8 at night,” he said
and the place quickly filled with people buying freshly baked goods
which is billed as the only one dedicated to mole in all of Mexico
if you know nothing at all about mole’s history
They do sell several types of mole and there’s a restaurant attached
drink in Veracruz is called torito and it’s sold in stores around Coatepec
This traditional drink was born in Veracruz in the 1800s when sugar cane workers mixed alcohol with a variety of fruits
it comes in seven flavors including peanut
There are five waterfalls near Coatepec and
we decided to head to Cascada Bola de Oro (Gold Ball Waterfall)
which is only about 20 minutes from the town center
is only partially paved and filled with holes
When we supposedly arrived at the path that would lead us to the waterfall
there was a young man who was parked on the road
when we told him we wanted to go to the waterfall
Not only does the one road leading there require a 4×4
Coatepec is a place we want to visit again
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5,000 acres of cloud forest are currently being threatened in Coatepec
have claimed to be the forest’s rightful owners
They displaced dozens of families and are threatening one of Mexico’s most vital ecosystems
These 5,000 acres of land contain three municipal parks and one archeological site. While the land’s original stewards and forest protectors are engaged in a legal battle with the “invaders,” the deforestation of this fragile ecosystem has already commenced
This act of environmental devastation has wide political/economic ramifications
you control the subsistence and livelihood of millions
The cloud forest above Coatepec is known as “la fabrica de agua” (the water factory)
It is one of the last “water factories” of its kind in Mexico
and it moderates the weather of the entire region
The clouds that roll in from the Gulf of Mexico are captured by the forest canopy
the moisture forming a thick mist that shrouds the mountainside
and orchids collaborate in an infinitely diverse ecosystem to retain the water that feeds the region’s rivers
not to mention most of the communities of central Veracruz
cloud forests are bastions of biodiversity
They harbor animals and plants that are threatened by the shifting tides of the climate crises and uncontrolled land use
Coatepec’s cloud forest now hosts 90 plant
and fungal species on the verge of extinction
the destruction of this ecosystem holds serious repercussions for the entire watershed
and the entire region will see considerably less rainfall
the destruction of the cloud forest will spell drought and devastation for all.
In January 2019, a faction of the “Central Independiente de Obreros Agrícolas y Campesinos” (The Independent Organization of Agricultural Laborers and Farmers) set up an encampment on the 5,000 acres of cloud forest known as the Jinicuil Manso estate
CIOAC verbally threatened more than 500 original stewards of the land and claimed to be the legal owner of the property
While the information is difficult to corroborate
local activist networks say that the organizers of the CIOAC encampment came from outside the region and do not hold legal rights to the said property
The community members who own land in the Jinicuil Manso estate submitted complaints to the local authorities
While the government “invited” the squatters to move off the premises
they requested that the community members refrain from engaging directly with CIOAC in order to prevent physical aggression
The local community groups, such as Por la Defensa de la Sierra de Coatepec and the individual landowners
are currently involved in court cases with CIOAC
it has become clear that larger political forces are involved in the illegal “settlement” of the cloud forest
The CIOAC members have direct connection with major political parties in the area and have garnered ample political support
they have publicly thanked the governor of the State of Veracruz
for his backing (though it is unclear whether this was just political posturing on the part of CIOAC)
and electoral politics have been devastatingly intertwined in Mexico for decades
When CIOAC first “invaded” the cloud forest
they invited citizens from the surrounding regions to squat on the appropriated land
Community members who did not own land of their own and/or were seeking greater financial stability
Forest protectors have observed between 100 to 300 community members in the encampments at a time
and set up their septic systems to run off into the precious streams
When forest protectors attempt to plant trees or talk with the squatters
the settlers have been known to brandish guns and machetes
defending the land that has been promised to them
Political figures from various parties in the region have sought to partner with the CIOAC settlers
Leading up to the future regional and national elections
the ruling political parties have reacted favorably to the CIOAC’s land claims
the forest protectors and activists claim that there is an even darker story
The people who live in the encampments of Jinicuil Manso could also be serving as a human shield
emptying the land for a larger economic interest that seeks to control the most vital resource of all: water.
While at first glance the squatters could appear to be land-hungry farmers
they are in fact just a cog in the virulent political-economic system
and other international corporations have huge factories in Coatepec and have been seeking to control the region’s water supply for decades
the community members have seen this same political/environmental ploy play out
Veracruz is one the deadliest regions for land and water protectors in the world. Por la Defensa de la Sierra de Coatepec continues to organize throughout the region
raising awareness about the plight of the cloud forest and the people who have been displaced
the settlers began threatening the lives of the forest protectors
When the organizers tried to negotiate with them in person
the CIAOC managed to scare most of the forest protectors into silence by actively threatening their families
while local authorities have turned a blind eye
While many forest protectors are too afraid to speak in public or to the press, the fight is not over. On November 29, 2020, Por la Defensa de la Sierra de Coatepec will return to the stolen land to begin reforesting the trees that have been cut down
They will also initiate a barter market with the local community members who have been directly affected by the theft of land
While many forest protectors have been forced to move to surrounding cities to protect their families
they are willing to risk their lives to defend and bring life back to the cloud forest.
Follow the “Movimiento por la Defensa de la Sierra” on social media and share the story with everyone you know
Show your support by commenting on their page and/or sharing a video of support
Short video messages are especially welcome as a way of expressing solidarity and boosting the morale of Coatepec’s forest protectors.
All images courtesy of Guardian of the Mountain
the collective of ecosystems to which we belong
Talking Wings invites humans to listen to Land
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A young woman dressed in Santa Muerte makeup waits outside the pantheon with other participants
Photojournalist Héctor Quintanar has documented a different tradition that takes place in Coatepec
Veracruz during the Day of the Dead celebrations in México
This is a glimpse of last year's festival dedicated to the Santa Muerte
is famous for being a coffee-growing town in the Sierra Veracruzana
Tourism has grown substantially in recent years due to its cultural attractions and open spaces
the town has a deep reverence for the Saint
to whom the construction of the main parish is dedicated
in a 17th-century building where believers carry out processions every year
another movement has taken root in populations outside the mainstream that directly infringes on the widely accepted Catholic beliefs: The cult of Santa Muerte
believers gather in the Cárdenas neighborhood of Coatepec to thank Santa Muerte for granted wishes
miracles and even acts of evil toward their enemies
Locals have organized a patronal feast in Cárdenas
and a massive procession that includes cars
music and a large wooden arch placed in the cemetery – home of death
2022 the Coatepec community holds a Santa Muerte parade that includes offerings
Parade of cars with decorations and statues of Santa Muerte
View of the floral arch offerings and life-size skulls that accompany the parade
Daniel Guzmán holds a statuette of La Santa Muerte
He is devoted Thanks to his father who initiated him in this belief
There are a lot of stories about the Santa Muerte's miracles
61-year-old Don Alberto says he was cured of heart cancer
which almost ended his life and family business
The Saint has appeared to others in dreams and some turn to it as a last resort when facing challenging situations
This belief has been growing as the procession that takes place every year in the town of Coatepec grows before the incredulous eyes of the families who watch thousands of people carrying skeletons in their hands or children riding in carts singing corridos to the saint
The powerful Saint can even force one's enemies to move away or disappear
Caution is advised because it can be dangerous to deal with Santa Muerte without the proper respect
is a believer in Santa Muerte thanks to the fact that his faith cured him of cancer in the aortic vein
Juanín gets a tattoo of Santa Muerte that covers his entire back
people look down on us because we have tattoos or because we look poor and fucked up," said Benjamin Olmos
"But the truth is that we are human beings like anyone else who believes in death
His faith in Santa Muerte began when he was able to overcome problems with alcohol and family thanks to his offerings and prayers to the Santa
Paris says his faith in Santa Muerte began when he was able to overcome problems with alcohol and family thanks to his offerings and prayers to the Saint
Click here to see more of Héctor Quintanar's projects
There’s something very special about watching the ceremony of a cup of coffee being carefully and precisely prepared just for you
As the exact amount of coffee grains – medium ground – are scooped up and then placed carefully into the filter of the V60 coffee dripper, Karla explains the flavors I’ll perceive: fruity, not unlike the sweetness in apples and peaches. Acidic. The coffee is grown locally, and Tueste
where I’m enjoying my first official cata (tasting)
clearly takes every step of the process seriously
the baristas here appreciate the art of a good cup of coffee
It’s treated with both curiosity and reverence
and even those who know more than I can ever hope to about the drink seem to be too in awe of the vast array of experiences it provides to bother being pretentious about it
Lots of places are “the land of coffee,” but café veracruzano especially stands out for its excellence
Veracruz is the first place through which coffee was brought to Mexico by the Spaniards (which was really the least they could do for Mexico
where it took to the land like a fish in water
Coffee has a few requirements for survival: lots of water; a mild temperature; taller trees around it to give it shade
and check: the Cloud Forest in which Coatepec is located is officially coffee-plant heaven
And the coffee lovers among us might very well hold it in the same high regard
While coffee got its original foothold in Mexico in Veracruz
it’s since been surpassed by Chiapas when it comes to the volume produced (Puebla is next in line)
Most coffee in the state is grown by small producers; indeed, 95.5% of fincas are smaller than three hectares
Most coffee growers sell their fresh harvests to larger national and international corporations (if you’ve seen Nescafé’s “Veracruz” soluble blend
you’ll see a good example of where that coffee ends up)
According to sustainable specialty coffee producer Diego Porras
this puts many coffee growers at a fairly large economic disadvantage: with three to four major corporations as the main purchasers for the crop
This in turn means that much of the coffee sold to “the big guys” is not necessarily of the best quality
as it makes little sense to nurture and grow something magnificent for such a small return
most of the world is perfectly fine with mediocre coffee; even in Mexico
the majority of those who drink coffee go with a soluble option — instant coffee
Over the past decade or so, however, the market for specialty coffee has been growing. There is even a coffee festival every May in Coatepec
More and more specialized coffee bars have popped up here to do what they do best to satisfy a more sophisticated and enthusiastic clientele
All of them offer a fantastic coffee-drinking experience
and their presence means that some coffee growers in the area can afford to spend the time and care growing and nurturing the state’s most famous plant; some even shepherd it the rest of the way to its final product
opening “finca to table” coffee bars of their own
but the nurture is what takes it over the finish line
And while there are other places throughout the country in which a sizable portion of the population appreciates a really good cup of coffee
Coatepec is a town that sticks out to the fan base: specialty coffee shops there abound
and its economy benefits largely from every piece of the plant-to-cup production line
At any given moment walking through the streets
one can smell the roasting or brewing of coffee
Add to that the cool and often drizzly climate
mountain views and colorful downtown architecture
I asked Karla why she thought there had been such a boom in specialty coffee lately in a place that has truly always deserved it
Coffee is a world of adventure that one would be hard-pressed to stop exploring
Porras would agree: sometimes the way a cup of coffee turns out “can even depend on the mood one’s in — or on the weather,” he says with a laugh
the rain continues to drizzle onto the coffee plants below
Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, https://sarahedevries.substack.com/
Rafael Pardo Ramos from Buenos Aires-based RP Arquitectos has designed a playful four-unit apartment complex located in the mesophilic forest of the old Xalapa-Coatepec highway in Coatepec
and in terrain with privileged panoramic qualities
In this polygonal and in correspondence with the slope of the lot
the condominium design seeks to emphasize the views for all the departments and promote the contemplation of the environment
leaving a green area footprint with more than 50% of the property
using rooftops as a green area and terrace.
A wall of breaststroke typical of the site forms a base on which the building sits; Adopts are used in parking lots minimizing the invasion of the car
The condominium is made up of four apartments; the ground floor apartment is in dialogue with a garden that contains endemic vegetation
while the upper levels get panoramic views of the environment assisted by terraces to expand the social space.
The project invites various playful tours on each of its levels
moving from public spaces to private areas
The apartments total 470 square meters of construction
seeking to optimize space without leaving aside the quality of the different atmospheres.
Plastically the project alludes to materials such as wood
Project: Zoncuantla ApartmentsArchitects: RP ArquitectosArchitect in Charge: Rafael Pardo RamosStructural Engineers: Rafael Gonzalo and Jorge Zaldo MartínezLandscape Architects: Hugo SánchezPhotographers: Onnis Luque and Naser Nader Ibrahim
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Gunmen killed 13 police officers in an ambush in México state on Thursday in what was apparently a revenge attack for a security operation against the Familia Michoacana drug cartel two days earlier
Eight state police and five investigative officers attached to the México state Attorney General’s Office were killed in the attack Thursday afternoon in Coatepec Harinas
a municipality about 120 kilometers southwest of Mexico City
members of the Familia Michoacana perpetrated the attack in retaliation for a joint state-federal security operation on Tuesday in Zacualpan
a México state municipality 40 kilometers south of Coatepec Harinas
Intelligence sources told the newspaper that 125 police
20 soldiers and 28 marines carried out an operation in the community of Gama de Paz and seized three vehicles allegedly stolen by cartel members
the security forces found a notebook containing information about the location of cartel bases as well where halcones
The security personnel saw alleged Familia Michoacana cartel members in Gama de Paz but the latter fled and there were no arrests or loss of life
México state Security Minister Rodrigo Martínez-Celis Wogau called Thursday’s ambush an “affront to the Mexican state” and pledged to respond with “total force and the support of the law.”
the army and the navy were deployed to Coatepec Harinas following the ambush
The attack was the deadliest on police since 14 state officers were killed in the Tierra Caliente region of Michoacán in October 2019
Ninety-nine police officers have now been killed in Mexico this year
a government watchdog with a particular interest in public security
making last year the deadliest year for police since the organization began tracking murders of police in 2018
Source: Milenio (sp)
The Fifth Community Assembly for Water (La Quinta Asamblea Comunitaria por el Agua) was held on Friday
Pacho Viejo seems an apt location for a convention on the protection and conservation of la Cuenca la Antigua (the Antigua Watershed)
It is in the geographic heart of this river basin
often called “the Coffee Capital of Mexico.” This assembly of Sentinelas de rio (River Sentinels) represented a convergence of undercurrents running beneath the region’s rich culture
all flowing toward safeguarding the ultimate source of life: water
A map showing the distinct rivers of the watershed as well as several damming, diversion, and hydroelectric projects that existed or were being planned in the area as of 2014. (Image source: SubVersiones.org.)
"Map of priority maritime regions of Mexico.” La Antigua River is number 79. (Image source: Biodiversidad Mexicana.)
Mexico’s Conabio (National Commission for the Knowledge and Use of Biodiversity) first designated el Río Antigua as a “priority hydrological region” in 1998
110 regions were prioritized either for their use
The Antigua Watershed was one of 75 regions prioritized for conservation and sustainable management due to their high level of biodiversity.
particularly those from Indigenous pueblos
biodiverse regions are often exploited for their abundance of resources
The shores of the Antigua River have long borne witness to the development of mango and lemon orchards
and dams erected for hydroelectric projects
construction on the dam was halted in February 2011 and never resumed
but also by the opportunity to continue a legacy of resistance.
Longtime activist and member of the PUCARL Collective Alejandro Gallardo of Jalcomulco remembers the events well
Gallardo and other concerned citizens of Jalcomulco gradually began the task of organizing their community
mainly through information sharing and making connections with those located in larger cities such as Xalapa
The most alarming rumor that community members were trying to make sense of was that the Mexican government had approved plans for a powerful construction company to erect a hydroelectric dam in the Río Pescados (River of Fish)
The Río Pescados and the Huitzilapan both attract tourists from all over who come to kayak and raft in their rapids
the Rio Pescados is home to Mexico’s national rafting team
The Río Pescados supports the community of Jalcomulco beyond the economic benefit of tourism in ways that are difficult to quantify but are easily understood by locals
It is where the local children play and learn to swim; where fishermen catch prawns to be cooked in local restaurants; where life itself begins
The dam was meant to divert water to Xalapa
which would reduce the Río Pescados to little more than a stream while simultaneously flooding other nearby areas
The impacts on local crops and communities which rely on the river to sustain themselves would be devastating
the energy produced by the dam would be sold at an exorbitant price
the benefits of which the people of the Antigua river basin would never see
In 2013, the community learned that Brazilian giant Odebrecht, now known as Novonor, was responsible for the damming project. Odebrecht is now known as an infamously corrupt corporation. In fact, in 2016 the company was implicated in one of the largest corruption cases in history for paying millions of dollars in bribes to oil companies and government officials in multiple countries in order to cut business deals
that Odebrecht did not have the correct permit to break ground on the Río Pescados
which is located within the protected area identified by the Conabio as a priority hydrological region
The company eventually obtained three permits after a suspiciously short turnaround time
demonstrates the complicity of both the state and federal governments in the company’s plan.
This blatant disregard for the region’s fragile biodiverse environment and the people it sustains was met with impassioned resistance on behalf of the pueblos of the Cuenca la Antigua
They coordinated die-in protests in Congress
and rejected the proposal of a new permit for the project
the government ignored the Colectivo’s demands for negotiation
It was only after nearly 5,000 activists blocked highways in Veracruz for three days that they conceded
This was followed by six months of dialogue with government representatives
treated the activists as if they were ignorant and painted the damming project in a positive light by liberally throwing around words like “progress” and “development” without mentioning any specific benefits to the pueblos that were at true risk of harm
“Say ‘NO’ to dams.” (Image Source: Manuel Antonio Lucía
“We will fight until the end and with whoever…” (Image Source: Manuel Antonio Lucía
43 communities along the Río Pescados officially joined to create Pueblos Unidos de la Cuenca Antigua por los Ríos Libres: the PUCARL Collective
The River Sentinels’ actions culminated in the establishment of the now legendary Rio Pescados encampment
The encampment was initially composed of only a handful of people in pickup trucks blocking vehicles from bringing heavy equipment to the construction site
a task which had required the company to log the area and significantly damage the surrounding ecosystem
The encampment eventually grew to include 3,000 to 4,000 River Sentinels
who collectively maintained the camp every day
It has become the center of the entire movement
and a poignant testament to the power of grassroots organizing
Though the PUCARL Collective eventually succeeded in forcing the suspension of the Odebrecht dam project and the withdrawal of funding
the threats that face the Cuenca la Antigua are ongoing
These threats will continue to resurface as long as the power dynamic endures between powerful corporations and governments propped up by colonial powers on the one hand
and the Indigenous communities they seek to erase on the other
a ban was enacted that prohibited megaprojects from being built in the Antigua Watershed
this ban was later lifted in 2018 by presidential executive order
The PUCARL Collective quickly sought the help of anthropologists
who helped them demonstrate to the government the importance of water beyond its economic benefits
Indigenous cosmologies and beliefs must be taken into account
along with traditional fishing practices and the sacred nature of certain parts of the land itself
and the order was eventually ruled unconstitutional
Gallardo described this moment as “the last grand battle of the collective.”
This year’s Asamblea Comunitaria was organized by the PUCARL Collective in collaboration with Raúl Torres
the Communal Land Commissioner of Pacho Viejo
Veracruz and the many River Sentinels of the Xalapa Metropolitan Area
held almost a decade after the PUCARL Collective came into existence
must be considered a testament to the decades of tireless struggle and determination on behalf of Mexico’s River Sentinels and indigenous communities
It speaks especially to the ongoing power of the Rio Pescado encampment so many years later
“Why do we continue this work?” asks Gallardo in reference to the encampment’s longevity
Children were welcomed to participate in activities designated especially for them
a detail that illustrates the true collective nature of this work as well as the creativity and inclusiveness it requires
According to seasoned environmental activist, storyteller, and healer Alejandro Beltrán Cordero of Coatepec
over 200 participants attended the Asamblea Comunitaria
including representatives from 28 pueblos belonging to the PUCARL Collective
Approximately 40 communities were represented in total.
“What's interesting about this movement is that it's finally unifying the distinct communities of the Cuenca la antigua.” Despite sharing goals and values like protecting the quality and accessibility of water and preserving Indigenous beliefs and ways of life
the great many threats to the watershed and the life forms it sustains often require local activists to be pulled in different directions.
According to Beltrán, some of the group’s current priorities include the defense of Xico, a territory in Veracruz that is threatened by more than 50 housing developments, as well as hate campaigns against the River Sentinels. Even the Rio Pescados faces new threats. In March of 2023, a strange white foam appeared on the shores of Jalcomulco
The source of the toxic foam was suspected to be a nearby factory discharging waste into the river
Six activists were detained and several women were beaten
It may seem that for every victory there comes another attack on the tireless work of Mexico’s activists and their right to live with dignity and autonomy
Whether the threat comes in the form of a dam
“Our river is sacred,” Alejandro Gallardo says
it is alive.” This movement is fueled by a sentiment of wholeness and interconnectedness
one that is repeated by many Sentinales de la Agua like a mantra
“River Sentinels of the Antigua” by Talking Wings Collective: https://talking-wings.com/river-sentinels-of-the-antigua
Profile on the United Communities of the Antigua Watershed for Free Rivers: https://weavingrivers.com/pucarl
“The River Says NO” by Talking Wings Collective: https://www.weavenews.org/stories/2021/1/20/the-river-says-no
“The Dirty World of Nature” by Alejandro Beltrán Cordero & Ainhoa Verdugo: https://weavingrivers.com/alejandro-beltran-cordero-ainhoa-verdugo
VIDEO (en español): “Confluence: PUCARL Collective, Veracruz, Mexico:” https://youtu.be/lMCi5d1eeOM
“The Storyteller and the Bees” by Talking Wings Collective: https://talking-wings.com/the-storyteller-and-the-bees
“Guardians of the Watershed: A Series About Environmental Solutions” series by Talking Wings Collective for ROAR Magazine: https://roarmag.org/author/talking-wings-collective/
“Resisting ‘Death Projects:’ An Interview With Carlos Beas Torres”: https://www.weavenews.org/stories/2023/5/15/resisting-death-projects-an-interview-with-carlos-beas-torres
“Alert: Repression and Eviction of the ‘El Sur Resiste’ (The South Resists) Caravan in Guichicovi, Oaxaca” by Weave News: https://www.weavenews.org/stories/2023/5/2/alert-repression-and-eviction-of-the-el-sur-resiste-the-south-resists-caravan-in-guichicovi-oaxaca
Note: Some Spanish texts have been translated by the author
Skylar Bergeron is an Editorial Coordinator intern for Weave News
Lawrence University in May 2022 with a double major in Global Studies and Spanish and a minor in Gender & Sexuality Studies
Skylar recently spent 4 months studying abroad in Madrid
and has drawn from that experience in her recent work and research
In their colorful costumes and painted masks
Mexico's dancing clowns are a fusion of Catholicism and indigenous culture
When photographer Luján Agusti first moved to Mexico from her native Argentina
she was immediately struck by the myriad religious festivals taking place throughout the year
became fascinated by the characters and reenactments she would come across during celebrations marking Holy Week
Documenting this colorful blending of Catholicism with indigenous culture
While visiting the town of Coatepec in the southeastern state of Veracruz
among the parishioners and a group of school band
danced a group of colorful masked clowns led by a character resembling a Spanish conquistador
She learned they were taking part in a tradition dating back to the days of Spanish colonization that had newly been revived after several decades
Many of the people were dancing as an offering to the Virgin of Guadalupe
an apparition of the Virgin Mary who appeared on the site of a former Aztec temple
Agusti reached out to different cuadrillas
of performers and arranged to take their portraits against colorful backdrops of the same fabric they use to make their costumes
but also strange because there is a deeper meaning to be gleaned
“All of these fabrics are very colorful and beautiful but when you see the costumes of the clowns [they are] tattered and old.” Agusti views this juxtaposition as a representation of the current realities of life in Mexico and Latin America
where deep-seeded poverty and social dysfunction lie beneath a festive exterior
the clowns were primarily played by older men
“Veracruz is one of the most dangerous states in Mexico,” she says
referring to the drug-related violence that has plagued the region
Being in a cuadrilla provides kids with a positive alternative while also keeping a unique tradition alive
Whimsical World"},"cmsType":"video","lines":3,"positionMetaBottom":true,"pId":"06f73c17-58ef-46b5-a01b-7ed0f019274f","imgSrc":"https://i.natgeofe.com/n/0f55b41a-16ed-4ae7-8ad2-9a2b0f1dda5a/00000159-dce0-df53-a55b-dee67bb70003.jpg","align":"contentWidth","autoplay":true,"description":"For clown philosophers like Slava Polunin
happiness is both an art form and a mission statement
Portrait of a dancing clown from the gang \"Cuadrilla de Juquilita.\" Coatepec
Portrait of the leader of the troupe wearing a scarf bearing images of the Virgin of Guadalupe
The leader represents a Spaniard and is in charge of leading the dancers
Detail of typical bonnet used by dancing clowns
which are sometimes decorated with religious imagery
Players can indulge in various Natlan time trial challenges
which are among the many exciting events and puzzles introduced in the Genshin Impact 5.0 and 5.2 updates
Completing these time trial challenges will be important for those aiming to achieve a 100% exploration of the region
as they contribute towards a major percentage of it
Completing these challenges may also reward you with certain new achievements and Primogems
26 of which can be seen on the interactive map
This article will cover all the locations of the current Natlan time trial challenges in different regions in Genshin Impact
you need to teleport to the northeast waypoint of the Tepeacac Rise region and head west
You will need to collect 28 Pyro particles within 45 seconds to complete the challenge
which is located south of the Tepeacac Rise region and head northwest
The challenge is located near a small pond
and you must collect 12 pyro particles within 40 seconds to complete it
Teleport to the Ancient Watchtower domain and start heading west along the road
You will find the challenge in front of a small enemy encampment by the river
you have to destroy 15 Anemo Simes within 60 seconds
To reach this Natlan time trial challenge, you can either head west from the previous challenge's location, or you can teleport to the Basin of Unnumbered Flames Statue of the Seven and head northeast along the road
You must collect 12 Pyro particles within 40 seconds to complete the challenge and claim a treasure chest as a reward
Teleport to the eastern waypoint from the Stadium of the Sacred Flames and head northeast
you will find the challenge on top of a small cliff
you must open the reward chest within 25 seconds
teleport to the previously mentioned eastern waypoint and continue heading east
You will find this challenge on a small stone after gliding down a cliff
Once you interact with the green "transform into the Yumkasaurus Saurian" icon
The objective of this Natlan Time Trial Challenge is to reach the target destination within 30 seconds
Teleport to the waypoint that is northeast of the Stadium of the Sacred Flame and head northwest to find the challenge by the water next to a Geo Saurian
you need to open the reward chest in 25 seconds
To reach the challenge, teleport to the northwest waypoint from Ameyalco Waters near the Sanctum of Rainbow Spirits domain
Head northeast and you will find the challenge on top of a small cliff
You can complete the challenge by opening the reward chest in 20 seconds
This Natlan Time Trial Challenge is located close to the Sanctum of Rainbow Spirits domain
Teleport to the domain and head southeast to find the challenge
You need to collect 9 Pyro particles within 40 seconds to complete the challenge
Use the northeast waypoint from Ameyalco Waters and head west to find this challenge by the water
you need to destroy 15 Flowlight Targets within 90 seconds
This Natlan time trial challenge is located underground in the Ameyalco Waters region. To reach this challenge, teleport to the Statue of the Seven in Ameyalco Waters, and you will find a small ruin with a hole in it slightly southwest of the Statue. Head down into the hole, and one of the new World Quests in version 5.0
Follow the quest and keep going deeper underground until you reach the lowermost level of the Underground Lava River
and you will find the challenge near a bunch of Pyro Slimes guarding a treasure chest in a lava river
you must collect 9 Pyro particles within 40 seconds
Take the Teleport Waypoint north of Teticpak Peak and head down southwest to find the challenge on a wooden platform
You need to collect 8 Pyro particles within 30 seconds to complete this challenge
head down southeast from the previous Natlan Time Trial challenge's location
or teleport to the waypoint east of Teticpac Peak and start heading southwest to find the challenge on a small peak
You need to collect 9 Pyro particles within 90 seconds to complete this challenge
This time trial challenge is located right next to the teleport waypoint
which is southeast of the Teticpac Peak region
You must defeat 10 enemies within 120 seconds to complete the challenge
This challenge is located near the Teleport waypoint southwest of the Ancestral Temple region
To complete this Natlan Time Trial Challenge
you need to destroy 3 Flowlight Targets within 40 seconds
Teleport to the southeast waypoint of the Ancestral Temple region
and you will find this Natlan time trial challenge located on a small wooden platform by the cliff
Collect 88 Pyro particles within 30 seconds to complete the challenge
If you teleport to the previously mentioned waypoint and head north from there
you will find this Natlan Time Trial Challenge floating in the air on a special platform
You need to transform yourself into a Yumkasaurus Saurian and grapple towards it to reach and start the challenge
you must destroy four Flowlight Targets within 40 seconds
Teleport to the waypoint northwest of the Ancestral Temple and head northwest
You can easily reach this Natlan Time Trial Challenge by transforming yourself into the Yumkasaurus Saurian
which is available next to the Teleport Waypoint itself
To complete this Natlan time trial challenge
you need to open the reward treasure chest within 40 seconds
There is a hidden island called Firethief's Secret Isle
located slightly southeast of the Ancestral Temple
You have to complete four Natlan time trial challenges for the island to appear on the map
The first three challenges are available to complete right away
but the fourth one will only unlock once you complete the other three
Also read: How to unlock Firethief's Secret Isle in Genshin Impact
This Natlan Time Trial Challenge is on a small island called Firethief's Secret Isle
which is located north of the Coatepec Mountain region and is right next to the Teleport Waypoint of the island
You need to disable three beacons firing lasers at you to complete the challenge
The second time trial challenge of this island is located slightly northeast of the Teleport Waypoint on the previously mentioned island
the objective of the challenge is to disable the three beacons that are firing lasers at you
The third time trial challenge is located on the same island as mentioned before
Use the Teleport Waypoint of the island and head east to find the challenge
You need to disable the beacon shooting lasers at you to complete the challenge
the final fourth challenge will become available in the middle of the island
where the four glowing marks on the big rock are located
The objective of this challenge is to defeat three different variations of the Wayob Manifestation enemy
Completing this challenge will reward you with a Luxurious Chest and reveal the island on the Natlan map
Teleport to the waypoint east of the Statue of The Seven near Masters of Night-Wind tribe and go west to find the Natlan time trial
Start the challenge before indwelling the nearby Iktomisaurus and collect all the Pyro particles
Completing the challenge will give you a Common Chest in Genshin Impact
Use the teleport waypoint near the Scorchwind Trial Grounds and turn around before jumping from the cliff
You can find three Qucusaurus time trial challenges near the Gaseous Phlogiston
Interact with the notice boards to start the challenge
You must pass through the hoops during each trial and reach the destination within the time limit
Use the Statue of The Seven west of the Masters of the Night-Wind and head west to find a time trial on a small rock near the shore
You must pass through the hoops as a Qucusaur in the first one
the second phase is a Spiritway challenge with a Koholasaur
Teleport to the northern waypoint in the Flower-Feather Clan and indwell a Qucusaus before flying towards the tabletop mountain in the west
burst the air balloons to start the Natlan time trial challenge and pass through all the hoops
This is one of the hidden challenges in Ochkanatlan and completing it will give an Exquisite Chest
Use the teleport waypoint west of the Statue of The Seven in Ochknatlan and use the nearby Qucusaur Spiritsconce to fly toward the tabletop mountain in the west to find the time trial
Interact with the nearby Spiritsonce before starting the challenge and collecting all the particles within the time limit
Completing this Natlan time trial will give you a Remarkable Chest
Teleport to the Statue of The Seven in Ochkanatlan and exit the building before jumping from the cliff
Turn left to find another Natlan time trial on a Phlogiston Wind Tunnel
Transform into a Qucusaur and use the wind tunnel to go higher before collecting all the Pyro particles within the time limit to complete the challenge
Use the teleport waypoint in the Cradle of Fleeting Dreams before heading southeast to find a broken bridge slightly ahead of the waterfall
Approach the bridge and go to the right side to find the time trial
you must collect the chest within the time limit while also avoiding the Secret Source Sentinels
You will also find an Iktomisaur Spiritsonce on the bridge that you can use to block the Secret Source Sentinel's light on the Remarkable Chest
Teleport to the small tabletop mountain east of the mainland Ochknatlan and head left to find an orange device
Activate it to start the Spiritway challenge
The Natlan time trial #33 is located near the Altar of Primal Flame on a small floating island that you can unlock only during the To the Sky-Road quest in Genshin Impact
You can indwell a Tepetlisaur and collect all the particles within the time limit to complete the challenge
This concludes the locations of all the Natlan time trials as of Genshin Impact 5.2
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