Oaxaca stands out for its diverse gastronomy and culture
with one of the country’s highest percentages and diversity of Indigenous populations
These cultures are showcased in varied artesanías (handcrafts) or artes populares (popular arts)
its craft is pottery made from a distinctive local black clay (barro negro)
Tzompantlis, skull racks from Mexico’s pre-Columbian period, were common across several peoples, including the Maya and the Zapotec. Perhaps the best example is the one in Tenochtitlán (now Mexico City)
With their striking display of neatly organized human skulls
tzompantli have inspired many modern artistic interpretations
including “El Mural de la Conquista” (“The Mural of the Conquest”)
Artist Carlomagno Pedro Martínez created this work
which was first displayed in Paris at the La Villet Cultural Center in 2002
The mural features a central tzompantli panel and makes symbolic use of other skulls
subtitled “Apology of the Conquest,” five old women represent five centuries since the Spanish conquest
The back shows a map of Mexico and two armed figures—one resembling a revolutionary from the early 1900s
and another wearing a balaclava typical of the EZLN (Zapatista Army of National Liberation)
Carlomagno’s Zapotec ancestry connects both revolutionary movements to contemporary Indigenous resistance
The lower panel features skeletons with insect features above a skeleton representing Martín Cortés
son of conquistador Hernán Cortés and his Indigenous interpreter Malintzin (also known as Malinche)
often considered one of the first mestizo Mexicans
This mix of peoples and cultures appears elsewhere on the mural
like the upper panel where skeletons appear atop a Christian church and a pre-Columbian pyramid
The side panels depict violent cultural clashes that ultimately forged a new Mexican culture
Martínez is also the director of the State of Oaxaca Museum of Popular Art (MEAPO)
which he helped establish through fundraising beginning in 1994
the museum reopened in its current location in 2004
showcasing not only San Bartolo Coyotepec’s distinctive barro negro
The museum’s upper floor houses a mask collection
many from coastal regions and featuring real animal elements like hair and horns
The museum also has an active calendar of temporary exhibits
showcasing up-and-coming artisans as well as established masters of their craft
This mural of the late David Bowie features eight colorful panels showcasing Bowie’s various alter egos
The ceiling of this shopping arcade is adorned with six trompe-l’œil artworks
A mural recalls a fictional woman who once lived at 23 Quai du Commerce
Local authorities nearly destroyed this mural before a viral video rallied international support to save it
Keith Haring was arrested for painting this anti-drug mural on a Harlem handball court
This 86,000-square-foot artwork is the largest mural in the world to cover a dam
Hundreds of graffiti artists have decorated this flood-wall on the west bank of the Mississippi River
The largest mural in the world painted by a single artist
traditional black pottery is making a comeback as a sustainable alternative to throwaway plastics
Artisans who use it to make Oaxaca’s famous barro negro
But 66-year-old Amando Pedro Martínez is an exception
Sparks crackle from the earth oven in his studio as I watch him reach
into the still cooling kiln and pull out smooth ebony plates one by one
Travelers arrive in tour buses to buy the iconic black pottery—but what tourists see isn’t exactly traditional
(Here’s how paper crafts bring the party on Day of the Dead.)
and plastics began to replace watertight black clay vessels
artisans adapted to a changing market by introducing new shapes
While these changes helped black pottery survive
it has also compromised the community’s historic relationship to clay
However, a new generation of artisans, including the cooperative Colectivo 1050°
is steering black pottery back to its utilitarian roots
they’re bringing attention to the ancient craft’s sophisticated design and inherent sustainability
“Barro negro is the megafauna of Oaxacan pottery,” says Eric Mindling, documentary photographer and author of Fire and Clay: The Art of Oaxacan Pottery
but its rise is dependent on a rich pottery ecosystem.” Mindling has visited more than 70 villages across Oaxaca and encountered at least as many variations of pottery style
The earliest examples of black pottery were found in Monte Albán, a Mesoamerican Zapotec and Mixtec stronghold dating back to 500 B.C
Situated roughly five miles southwest of Oaxaca City
Monte Albán rises strategically at the point where Oaxaca’s three main valleys converge
the Sierra Madre mountains rise and fall north to Puebla
harbors at least 16 distinct ethnic groups that still practice a farming system known as milpa
Oaxaca’s pottery evolved to perform distinct tasks related to milpa
“The majority of Oaxacan pottery was made to absorb the thermal shock of cooking on top of a hot flame,” Mindling says
San Bartolo Coyotepec pottery was different
Fired in sealed underground ovens at high temperatures
barro negro’s color and impervious clay body is a result of intense carbonization
It’s suited to holding and transporting liquids—but not for cooking
exchanging comals and ollas—griddles and pots for making tortillas and cooking beans
In her home workshop in San Bartolo Coyotepec
Graciela Simon López prepares to seal pottery pieces in a kiln heated to about 700°C (1292°F)
The smoke and heat will turn the pieces black
Oaxacan pottery has long been praised for its functionality and sophisticated design.María Francisca Gutiérrez and her daughter walk through their family’s garden in San Marcos Tlapazola
a community that preserves Mexico’s indigenous Zapotec culture
Besides maintaining their traditional dress and language
the women and men of the village also practice a dynamic farming system called milpa that has long been tied to pottery production.San Bartolo Coyotepec’s clay economy and identity went on uninterrupted well into the 20th century
Then a woman named Doña Rosa Real Mateo de Nieto arrived on the scene and changed the course of black pottery
“Shiny pieces happen when the pottery is under-fired,” Pedro explains
but Doña Rosa saw them as an opportunity.” By the late 1960s
the use of tin and plastics was established in villages surrounding Oaxaca City
these visitors gravitated toward lustrous jet-black pottery in Doña Rosa’s workshop
Graciela Simon López extracts a recently fired clay skull from the kiln
and other embellishments are etched onto pieces like this for Day of the Dead festivities.Doña Rosa seized the momentum and began carving patterns on pots and figures
and firing them at lower temperatures to get the new look
and the rest of the town followed her example
and the shift from functional matte vessels to glossy decorative items was underway
potters began using molds in lieu of hand-forming
A tree-lined plaza next to the town’s 16th-century Mexican baroque church doubles as a barro negro bazaar
where tour buses and day-trippers disembark to haggle over ebony candelabras
and miniature skulls decorated with beautiful openwork designs
life became easier because we aren’t working in the hot sun anymore,” Pedro says
“But the desire to accumulate transformed the village
(These artisan towns unlock the mystery of Japan’s perfect paper.)
“In Oaxaca, clay represents a way of living. It’s practical, sustainable, and an example of good design,” says industrial designer Kythzia Barrera, who, along with Diego Mier y Terán, co-founded Innovando la Tradición and Colectivo 1050°
sister organizations that collaborate with Indigenous potters to preserve traditional knowledge and skills
“It’s got a short neck for tying the rope to lower it into a well
egg-shaped body is ergonomically designed to tilt when it hits water
The mouth is shaped to scoop up water and keep it in without spilling
perfectly suited to the task with no excess waste
And it’s a design that no doubt was worked out by the whole community
María Cruz López adds water to red clay to begin the process of molding a comal (griddle).The Bartolo Jug created by Colectivo 1050° artisans is one of the cooperative’s best-selling barro negro pieces
The group helps Indigenous ceramicists preserve traditional knowledge and skills.In San Marcos Tlapazola
Griselda Mateo Gutiérrez uses a piece of quartz to burnish a shallow bowl made of local red clay
She learned how to make pottery from her mother and aunts
In Mexico where systemic obstacles persist
“there is nothing more challenging than being an Indigenous woman,” says Barrera
Clay is an integral part of Indigenous identity; for many
Giving value to Indigenous pottery makers’ ancient system of producing and consuming in balance with the earth—what Barrera and Mier y Terán call the “artisan mindset”—is their core work
“I don’t know when I lost the desire to make figurines,” says Pedro
Attuned to the craft’s inherent sustainability
he sees it as an antidote to plastic and pollution
Joining Colectivo 1050° allowed for a fresh start
he began making plates inspired by apastles
(This artist reveals the growing amount of plastic waste littering the ocean.)
Oaxaca’s explosive mezcal economy is also revisiting traditional black clay forms. Artisanal mezcal maker and cofounder of Mezcouting
which runs mezcal tasting journeys in Oaxaca’s hinterlands
Marco Ochoa Cortés grew up hearing stories of his grandfather leading donkeys laden with mezcal-filled black clay jars to the Pacific coast
He recently discovered the family’s cache of old barro negro and is experimenting with reusing it for bottling and storage
High-profile collaborations, such as with Danish chef Rene Redzepi
There is a widespread perception of traditional pottery as unrefined and cheap
pottery communities grapple with migration and the loss of cultural identity
Colectivo 1050° and its mission to elevate the “artisan mindset” offer an alternative
we will continue to make and use clay,” says Barrera
Mariceu Erthal García is a Mexican photographer exploring the bridge between daily life and history through documentary and fine art photography. To see more of her work, follow her on Instagram
A version of this story appears in the March 2022 issue of National Geographic magazine.
Mariceu Erthal García is a Mexican photographer exploring the bridge between daily life and history through documentary and fine art photography. To see more of her work, follow her on Instagram
A version of this story appears in the March 2022 issue of National Geographic magazine
Rachna Sachasinh writes about travel and culture and has worked with artisan groups, including in Oaxaca. She is based in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Follow her on Instagram
Mexico’s handcraft tradition is so much more than eye-catching wares displayed for sale on the street
it is a testament to millennia of both history and aesthetic evolution
Mexico’s best artisans do not simply have impeccable craftsmanship
and the central valleys of Oaxaca certainly fit the bill
along with outstanding handcraft and fine art traditions
It also has a large cultural tourism industry
providing a perfect marketplace for creators
Carlomagno Pedro deserves recognition for a lifetime dedicated to breaking the barrier between handcrafts and fine art
made famous in the mid-20th century by Rosa Real Mateo
She put the town on the map internationally
by learning to burnish the local clay to a shiny black and creating decorative objects called barro negro
but rather than a biological son of the doña
I had the pleasure of meeting him for the first time in 2016 at his workshop in Coyotepec
When I told him that my students and I had created an article about him on Wikipedia
but my grandchildren found the article and were very impressed that I was in it.”
But underneath his humble demeanor is a fire
Leading Mexican folk art expert Marta Turok recounts that he was “a precocious child,” always asking questions and learning about the culture of his region’s culture
His early training in barro negro was traditional
although his father made (and still makes) figurines
he began to experiment with the possibilities that the clay represented
decided to study fine art at the Rufino Tamayo Workshop in Oaxaca city
has resulted in the interpretation of traditional themes of Oaxacan life and death in a much more nuanced way
but these are not mere Day of the Dead decorations; they are expressions of how Pedro sees the world
But working with clay did not open doors among Mexico’s artistic elite
Turok met him around this time and notes that his attempts to participate in fine arts events were rejected until the highly regarded abstract artist Manuel Felguérez chastised his fellow artists for their narrow-mindedness
including the National Presidency Youth Award
and his work was praised by Francisco Toledo
a fellow Oaxacan and one of Mexico’s greatest sculptors
Pedro received Mexico’s highest honor for artisans
the National Arts Prize (Popular Traditions category)
for his work “elevating” Zapotec and Mixtec indigenous cultures
Pedro says that winning the award vindicated all the struggles that he suffered throughout his decades as an artist
fine art galleries and major art collections
but his magnum opus is a 3-by-5-meter mural for the exterior of Oaxaca’s Baseball Academy in Coyotepec
depicting the Mixtec version of the Mesoamerican ballgame
the history of Coyotepec and a portrait of Babe Ruth
Pedro’s contributions to Oaxacan culture do not stop with pottery
When the state decided to open a folk art museum almost 20 years ago
Coyotepec was chosen as the site and Pedro as its founding (and current) director
The Museo Estatal de Arte Popular de Oaxaca has since sponsored hundreds of exhibitions
Although the workshop is much larger than that of his parents
it is still a simple affair — four cinder block walls and a roof under which to create the magic
using nothing but his hands and a rudimentary potter’s wheel
consisting of a plate balanced over a bowl
a Mesoamerican technique unique to the region
Turok sees Pedro’s work and legacy as invaluable to the barro negro tradition of Coyotepec
“He portrays tradition but in a unique way
that there are many paths to develop the art form.”
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
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The world-famous weaving center of Teotitlán del Valle is only 20 minutes from Oaxaca City © Wolfgang Kaehler / LightRocket via Getty Images
Oaxaca City has plenty to enthrall visitors – and day trips from this regional capital and cultural center complement any visit here
Venturing out beyond the busy city promises a taste of old Oaxaca
as ancient traditions come alive at rustic mezcal distilleries
spirited artisan workshops and indigenous mountain communities that time forgot
Here are some noteworthy getaways to explore the alluring environs of Oaxaca
all just an easy day trip away from the big city
A cluster of eight remote communities tucked away in the Sierra Norte mountains, the Pueblos Mancomunados (Commonwealth of Villages) provide the ideal setting for wilderness adventures on bike
foot or horseback amid magnificent canyons
Home to 400 bird species and thousands of plant varieties
the cool cloud forest here is best experienced along some 60 miles of trails that connect the welcoming Zapotec towns
all of which have no-frills cabins for rent and roadside cantinas whipping up hearty comfort food
How to get to the Pueblos Mancomunados from Oaxaca
Driving is the most convenient way to reach the villages
lie about 1 hour and 25 minutes northeast of Oaxaca City
turn left at the Oaxaca–Tlacolula Highway and head north
Another option is Oaxaca City–based Expediciones Sierra Norte
which operates shared vans to most of the towns and arranges guided hikes and tours
There’s no shortage of downtown Oaxaca City stores selling barro negro (polished black pottery) and alebrijes (colorful wood-carved animal figures) – but nothing beats the experience of seeing these iconic wares taking shape in artisans’ studios
dozens of workshops and homes dedicate themselves exclusively to the production of alebrijes
where some larger sculptures can take up to 4 years to make
Many of the surreal alebrijes are based on the sacred animals of Zapotec mythology
On the return to Oaxaca, hit Alfarería Doña Rosa (after 4pm) in San Bartolo Coyotepec for a fascinating demonstration showing how black pottery is burnished with quartz stones to give it its distinctive luster
How to get to San Martín Tilcajete and San Bartolo Coyotepec from Oaxaca
Both towns are south of the city along Highway 175
Autobuses Halcón on Bustamante 606A has frequent bus departures to San Bartolo Coyotepec (30 minutes)
will drop you at the San Martín Tilcajete (45 minutes) turnoff
where it’s about 1 mile to the Jacobo & María Ángeles factory
head for the majestic mountains of the remote Mixtec village of Santiago Apoala
Wi-fi is spotty at best in these parts – but who needs it when you're hiking to a sublime 200-foot waterfall amid deep canyons with ancient rock carvings
though the natural beauty and quiet calm make a strong case for an overnight excursion
Community tour operator Ecoturismo Comunal Yutsa To’on rents affordable riverside cabins and runs guided hiking outings
Santiago Apoala is about 2.5 hours northwest of Oaxaca City and is most conveniently reached by car
Take Highway 135D to the town of Asunción Nochixtlán to access the bumpy dirt road to Santiago Apoala
frequent Nochixtlán-bound buses depart from Oaxaca’s first-class bus station; from Nochixtlán
hire a local taxi up to the village for about M$350 ($12.50) one way
Oaxaca City-based Tierraventura offers 2-day tours to Santiago Apoala
After taking in the spectacular panoramic views of Monte Albán (a must-visit while in Oaxaca City), head to the ancient Zapotec ruins of Mitla for sophisticated stone “mosaics” that are unique in Mexico (and the world)
mosey on over to Restaurante Doña Chica for some exquisite mole before heading out to Santiago Matatlán
Oaxaca’s capital of mezcal (a distilled alcoholic agave spirit)
To learn about the production process, swing by craft distillery 3 Mezquites de Don Goyo
where you can sample and purchase complex mezcals made from wild agaves
If time permits, squeeze in a visit to Hierve el Agua and take a dip in cliffside mineral springs with expansive views over the sierra
(Just make sure it’s open before you head there as Hierve el Agua regularly closes due to long-running political conflicts.)
How to get to Mitla and Santiago Matatlán from Oaxaca
Take Highway 190 east to reach Mitla (45 minutes) and Santiago Matatlán (55 minutes)
The turnoff for San Baltazar Guelavila is about 8km south of Santiago Matatlán
Hierve el Agua lies about 45 minutes southeast of Mitla (look for the turnoff along Highway 179)
Tour operator Experience Agave runs day trips to distilleries in the Santiago Matatlán area and beyond
Villagers in world-renowned Teotitlán del Valle have been weaving colorful rugs and blankets since pre-Hispanic times, and the craft is still very much alive today. As you make your way to Teotitlán, stop in the town of El Tule to marvel at the Árbol del Tule
a 2,000-year-old Montezuma cypress tree that is said to have the world's widest trunk
In Teotitlán del Valle, a fairly new community center houses a museum celebrating all things weaving
leads weaving classes for anyone looking for a more hands-on experience
while cooking courses are available at El Sabor Zapoteco should you like to learn how to prepare classic Zapotec dishes
How to get to Teotitlan del Valle from Oaxaca
To reach El Tule (20 minutes) and Teotitlán del Valle by car
Mitla-bound buses depart frequently from the second-class bus station; they’ll usually drop you along the highway
Or simply hail a taxi colectivo (shared taxi) in Oaxaca near the first-class bus station
You might also like:Ten places to grab lunch on a budget in OaxacaMezcal three ways: ten great places to get mezcal in OaxacaMexico's best off-the-grid-beaches
Residents of San Bartolo Coyotepec contruct an oven with the participation of an Unitierra representative
As a university student in the United States
I’ve always thought of “education” and “learning” as synonyms
That’s an assumption that got turned upside down during the five weeks I spent this summer in Oaxaca
Mexico, investigating alternative education methods among indigenous people
The educators I observed there called what they were doing “participant education.” While each group had a slightly different definition of the concept
certain things stayed consistent everywhere I went
people have a greater control over how they learn and what they learn compared to the formal model of classroom education
Learning should center on meaningful dialogue between people to question the existing world
who was an avid promoter of redefining what education and learning can mean
called this kind of decentralization the “opportunity web.” The four-part web stresses dialogue and skill-sharing between people of different classes
and people finding other people with like interests or useful knowledge to help facilitate their learning
learning should center on meaningful dialogue between people to question the existing world in order to reinvent meaning and purpose
In order to help you envision this process
I am going to describe an example in which participant educators facilitated the building of a clay oven in a village outside Oaxaca
I’d like to put these projects in context by talking about what education has been expected to do In Mexican history
Modern education in Mexico begins with the Liberal Party’s victory over the Conservatives in the 1861 Reform War
a native Zapotec from the Sierra of Oaxaca
as the first freely elected president of Mexico
Mexico consisted of countless groups that spoke different languages
and had different goals about the future of the nation
The Juarez administration sought to design an education system that would unify these groups and teach them basic skills
education in Mexico was dismal in terms of quality and results
especially among poor and indigenous groups
Freedom to LearnUnitierra founder Gustavo Esteva tells the story of how this educational network came to be
Juarez built more schools and overhauled existing curriculums
which up until that point had been created almost exclusively by the Catholic Church
and a myriad of other fields with the goal of creating a more enlightened citizen of Mexico
A secondary effect of this plan was to decrease the power and influence of the Catholic Church
the church had been the largest untaxed landowner and the largest creator of schools
in which it propagated Catholic teachings and the fear of God
The Juarez administration attacked that power through legislation such as the Ley Lerdo
which forced the church to sell off its land holdings
the indigenous groups Juarez wanted to educate quickly became his greatest problem
Indigenous groups wanted to retain their ways of life
while the federal government wanted to replace these with a singular Mexican culture
multiple cultures and languages hindered efforts to establish a singular national identity
the indigenous communities resisted the coercive forces of the Juarez administration in trying to implant reforms onto their communities
Schools and teachers were forcibly pushed into communities
which were often expected to pay for construction of the school and the salaries of the teachers
The 1844 legislation passed by the Juarez administration required that towns disclose their community budgets and finances to the federal government
for the purpose of finding out how much money they had to erect state schools
This back and forth continued through several more administrations and has been a major factor pitting the federal government against the indigenous populations of Mexico
The tensions between educational models are only one of the reasons why many of the indigenous groups of Mexico harbor skepticism toward the federal government
One of the products of that skepticism has been a movement to build schools that are a better match with indigenous values and lifeways
One of these schools is the Universidad de la Tierra
an alternative university stationed in the heart in Oaxaca City
has become a model in alternative education
The school emphasizes informal education and the apprenticeship method instead of the “traditional” model of the teacher-student relationship
While the Unitierra offices can act as a learning commons for students working on apprenticeships through Unitierra
the school is also active in promoting a learning-by-doing approach to education at the request of the communities
classes at Unitierra have no fixed location of education
Though there is one main building in Oaxaca City where forums within the community are held and students can come to learn
Unitierra also can provide a learning experience to students where they live and work by coming to them
participants have complete control over what and how they decide to learn
Esteva believes that this method facilitates a more organic learning pattern and results in better and more detailed retention of information
which can then be readily passed on to another curious student
a former advisor to the Zapatista Army for National Liberation (EZLN)
has been a tremendous force for alternative education and the promotion of intercultural dialogue
the young Esteva began working at IBM at the age of 15 as a result of a series of educational programs made possible by the recent implementation of President Harry Truman’s Point Four program
Esteva left IBM and the private sector after seeing the kind of damage that the major corporations were doing to Mexico and its people
Esteva had been appointed to a position as minister in the cabinet of President Luis Echeverría
a member of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) who had run on a populist platform
Unsettled by the reality of being placed in a legislative position that disconnected him from the people he was helping to govern
Esteva’s interests began to move towards the grassroots efforts and organization
As a result of an invitation to a seminar in 1983 in Mexico City
Esteva met the philosopher and educational theorist
were a brilliant intellectual presentation of ordinary people’s common discourse,” Esteva recalls
The two began collaborating in the years to come
The conception of Unitierra came as a result of concluding that no matter how much curriculums were modified or how creative the teachers were
the school as an institution created many of the problems in education
Preapproved course material that did not have much application in the real world was among the greatest issues
combined with the need for a degree in order to be considered certified to complete a task
I shadowed a Unitierra worker named Alberto to an education site (I have changed his name to protect his privacy)
had requested the services of Unitierra for an oven-building project
Unitierra works with communities in and around Oaxaca to promote environmentally friendly works and community building exercises
volunteerism is the driving philosophy; no one is forced to attend these workshops
but the hope is that their service will act as a learning experience for the participants and an opportunity to learn and share a new skill
The women also discussed the aesthetic and artistic design of the stove and provided suggestions to the wife based on what they thought would look good
The project was construction of an energy-efficient adobe stove designed to reach and maintain optimal cooking heat levels while burning less wood
Alberto was the designated “expert” (another worker’s word—not mine) on this particular stove and was going to this community to help show the family and members of the community how to build one
We arrived at the village and made our greetings
as the 19 participants trickled onto the worksite
All the people were immediate family and members of the health committee
one of the many community-run organizations within the San Bartolo group
After a few more introductions to the group
The women began discussing the different ways in which the stove could be organized
Other housewives shared how their own stoves were set up and arranged for optimal cooking
The women also discussed the aesthetic and artistic design of the stove and provided suggestions to the wife based on what they thought would look good
the men conversed casually with one another as they began moving dirt and adobe bricks to the site
both groups were talking and busily laying out bricks and mud
and moving parts around until an agreement was made on what should go where
Four hours had passed and the yard was full of conversation and deliberation
while busy hands put mud and brick into place
with little to no intervention from the Unitierra workers
Everyone who’d chipped in stood tall on the lawn of this family
the people’s pride and happiness with what they had accomplished couldn’t have been clearer to me
This was just one example of participant education that I observed in my time in Oaxaca
Education and learning have become synonymous to many of us
the two words have vastly separate meanings
The limitations of this model exist only at the limits of an individual’s own curiosities
To the indigenous communities and groups that cannot afford formal education in Mexico or have rejected the state’s program
this model provides an opportunity to gain a new skill or a new perspective and an understanding of how to use it in a real situation rather than a hypothetical one
This kind of education stresses the learning process and the acquisition of practical skilss over the degree itself
The learning process and skills gained is the ends
not just a means to a degree or certification
Anyone can take part in his or her own informal education
The limitations of this model exist only at the limits of an individual’s own curiosities
Any person can learn a new skill by themselves
or someone can help facilitate this process
but it is the process and the practical outcome that make this approach so starkly different than the formal model of education
It is daunting to imagine what results might would come if this method of education was as widely promoted as widespread as the formal one and what would come from a world that taught itself and shared ideas openly
Mike Emiliani wrote this article for YES! Magazine
nonprofit media organization that fuses powerful ideas with practical actions
The leading authority for the Architecture & Design community
Recharge in a Restored Spanish Farmhouse in Menorca
Born in Austria from an Austrian mother and a Mexican father, designer David Pompa grew up in and currently works between both countries
After earning a master’s degree in product design at Kingston University in London
Always exploring new techniques to create unique objects
the designer—who is passionate about Mexican culture—uses materials such as red travertine; fiorito
a light gray-colored natural stone quarried in Puebla; cantera rosa
a volcanic rock from Zacatecas; barro negro
black clay from San Bartolo Coyotepec in Oaxaca; talavera
traditional hand painted ceramic produced in Puebla; tropical wood from Mexico; brass; and hand-blown glass
Pompa shares insights on the design scene in Mexico
advice for those starting out in the field
and the inspiration behind the new pieces in the Can and Cupallo collection.
Interior Design: What is your first memory of design
David Pompa: I was about 16 years old the first time I visited Milan Design Week and the experience was incredible
Looking at so many objects and the positive vibe all over the city was captivating
I think it’s the concentrated emotion of everything that is great in our profession—working with other creative minds
and let’s not forget the joy and love for what we do
ID: How do your Austrian and Mexican origins impact your design approach
DP: I believe the biggest influence is our personal experiences and the way we perceive and interact with the world. Both backgrounds give me different perspectives on how to approach our work and solve problems
ID: Can you name some people in the industry who inspire you
DP: We find our inspiration in interdisciplinary work and collaborative approaches
Herzog & de Meuron are architects who represent new chains of thoughts
ID: What was your overall design goal for the new pieces of your Can and Cupallo collections
and recycled hand-blown glass are very nice materials with great aesthetical characteristics
We have been working with them since the beginning of our studio’s journey and we wanted to celebrate them with new objects that enhance their material qualities
The Can vase represents a close connection with nature and its earth-related process
The Cupallo vase creates an interaction with its surrounding through reflections and transparencies
ID: What type of materials do you like to use in your creations and why
the most attractive it is to us to work with
Any material that we decide to work with implies a process of uncovering its true potential
The story behind each material is extremely valuable and inspires us in many ways
the first time we got in contact with barro negro
we were attracted by its honest attributes
Its history goes back hundreds of years and it is deeply embedded in Mexican culture through very traditional objects
It became a challenge for us to bring this amazing material to a contemporary context
ID: How has the Mexico design scene evolved for the past 10 years
The country reflects an interesting combination between its heritage and its fast-growing creative scene
This approach to cultural richness has increased over the past years. Every piece we create has a distinct relationship to Mexico; all materials arise from traditions and regional processes. Not all our materials
are Mexican ‘at first sight,’ but we like to be able to show a new face of Mexico and reveal new traditions that are not always obvious
ID: How do you envision the future of design in Mexico and in Latin America in general
DP: Mexico and Latin America have the advantage of being a blank piece of paper
There is a lot of room to create and many tools to work with
People from these countries are ingenious by nature
adapting to circumstances in the most creative ways
This gives opportunities to new ways of thinking and producing
I have been living for more than 10 years in this apartment
so it has grown and changed together with me
My favorite room is the one that welcomes the sunset every day; the light is beautiful.
DP: Something I tell young people a lot is that academic titles won’t get you anywhere
What matters is what you can do and the enthusiasm that you have for what you do
ID: When you feel that you need to find inspiration
and planning and decision-making are part of our everyday work
Changing tasks and not putting pressure on the creative process help the ideas to be in the right place at the right moment
Mexico’s handcrafts are folk art in the truest sense of the word
Influenced by changes going on around them
ordinary people living and working outside of vaunted artistic circles reinterpret culture and traditions that can be millennia old
Sometimes that innovator is even “just a housewife.”
San Bartolo Coyotepec is a pottery town located in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca — three valleys that join together at the state capital
The state has a strong international reputation for handcrafts and indigenous cultures
but San Bartolo’s barro negro (black clay) more than holds its own here
Barro negro pottery has been important economically and culturally in San Bartolo for centuries
with examples found in various local archaeological sites
The local clay had been used primarily to make storage containers
particularly for liquids such as water and mezcal
Such containers are still made from small monkey-shaped bottles with cork or corn-cob stoppers to giant lidded amphoras called tibors
Barro negro clay has some unique properties
Fired containers are impermeable and resistant to knocks
which made them highly suited for storage and transport
The color was always a matte gray — not very aesthetic
making it suitable at times as a musical instrument
barro negro might have disappeared from San Bartolo if it weren’t for the ingenuity of one woman with good timing
Born Rosa Real Mateo (with “de Nieto” added after marriage)
one of many traditional women living and working in the home here
she discovered on her own that if she rubbed a nearly dry piece of barro negro clay with a smooth stone before firing
the result was a shiny black instead of a dull gray finish
What she (re)discovered was a very old technique called burnishing
which other Mesoamerican pottery makers had used to give a shine to their wares
It is likely that someone discovered the same thing earlier
but burnishing this particular clay has its downsides
Burnished barro negro is more fragile and porous
meaning that although the jars look a lot nicer
Oaxaca began to share in Mexico’s booming tourism industry
But instead of focusing on its hard-to-get-to beaches
Oaxaca promoted its indigenous and traditional cultures
which includes a wide variety of handcrafts
This meant that many of them would not disappear
but the demand for decorative items meant that they would change
Doña Rosa’s experiments fit with this new market for visitors wanting to take a piece of Oaxaca home with them
In her book Mexican Folk Art: From Oaxacan Artist Families
Arden Rothstein recounts having the privilege of seeing Doña Rosa at work in the 1960s
she earned renown for her expertise in creating beautiful forms and applying [a] quartz [stone] to the clay before firing,” she said
but not before her workshop became a mecca for famous admirers such as Nelson Rockefeller and former American president Jimmy Carter
Her work recreated the town’s pottery industry
which now boasts over 300 workshops dedicated just to barro negro
Doña Rosa’s family still runs her workshop
but there is a large sign indicating the turnoff as you enter on the highway from the city of Oaxaca
It has one of the largest selections of decorative items in a wide range of styles
Different family members specialize in different kinds of pieces
Decorative objects are the lifeblood of the town, but some creators have taken barro negro into the realm of art. The other important ceramic family in town is the Pedros, headed by notable artist Carlomagno Pedro
His education in pottery was begun by his parents
but he also took artistic training at the Tamayo Museum in the city of Oaxaca
The extra education is evident in his designs
He does everything from miniatures to full wall murals
such as the one at the Oaxaca Baseball Academy
His work has been exhibited as both art and handcraft in Mexico and abroad
and his fame led to becoming the director of MEAPO
Oaxaca’s state-sponsored handcraft museum in San Bartolo
The Doña Rosa and Pedro families dominate barro negro pottery
with dozens of them becoming notable in their own right
One of these is Abdiel Cardozo Calderón, who can be reached at [email protected]. Most of his work is related to his Zapotec heritage but reinterpreted as works of art, not folklore. For almost a decade, his work has been recognized and promoted by the New York-based Friends of Oaxacan Folk Art
whose website is a valuable resource for background and contact information about outstanding barro negro and other Oaxacan artisans
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 17 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture. She publishes a blog called Creative Hands of Mexico and her first book, Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta, was published last year
Her culture blog appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
View upcoming auction estimates and receive personalized email alerts for the artists you follow
Collectors seeking traditional black pottery or painted wooden figures can arrange visits to the homes and workshops of the artisans
Here’s our guide to the featured crafts from the state of Oaxaca
Support your favorite artisans! Because the pandemic discourages travel, many of our artisan friends are selling online. Planeta.com will be updating our Folk Art and Where to Buy Oaxaca crafts pages.Special kudos to our friend
weaver / photographer Verónica Lazo Mendoza
¡Apoya a tus artesanos favoritos! Debido a que la pandemia desalienta los viajes, muchos de nuestros amigos artesanos venden en línea. Planeta.com actualizará nuestras páginas de Arte Popular y Dónde comprar artesanías de Oaxaca
la tejedora / fotógrafa Verónica Lazo Mendoza
Craft-making TownsSan Agustin Etla – With two paper-making workshops in San Agustin Etla
Oaxaca may be witnessing the birth of a cottage industry.Santa Ana del Valle – Tour this market town 34 kilometers EAST of Oaxaca City
The town has a museum with various archaeological objects as well as examples of weaving techniques and natural dyes
Teotitlan Del Valle – Make sure you make time to visit this village which specializes in rug weaving. Dozens of weavers open their workshops to the public. Read more.
San Bartolo Coyotepec – The town is famous for its black pottery
Visit the new museum of popular art and the white market on the west side of the highway
San Martin Tilcajete – Family homes and workshops producing the famous wooden figures are spread out troughout town
La Union Tejalapam – Known for its production of alebrijes
this town boasts a great landscape for biking
Getting there from Oaxaca City: Head north and past the town of Brenamiel but before the start of the new highway (nueva carretera)
take a left where there’s a sign post for San Lorenzo Cacaotepec
San Antonino Castillo Velasco – Located near Ocotlán de Morelos
this town produces embroidered dresses using silk and cotton in a detailed fashion that requires several months to complete
San Antonio Arrazola – This is the cradle of the wooden figures or alebrijes
Rugs (Tapetes) — The Zapotecs call their weavings laadi and you’ll find beautiful rugs in Santa Ana del Valle and Teotitlán del Valle
Wool rugs made in the weaving villages are popular around the world
you can purchase the rugs at the following markets in Oaxaca City: Artesania
Textiles — Woven textiles — blouses
tableclothes — are very popular in Oaxaca
Look for cotton products produced on back-strap looms in Santo Tomás Jalieza and quality embroidery in San Antonino Castillo Velasco near Ocotlán
Wooden Figures (Alebrijes) — San Martin Tilcajete
San Antonio Arrazola and La Union Tejalapam
the brightly colored carvings are a recent addition to folk arts are among the best-selling Mexican folk art in the world
Alebrijes are monster-type figures that were developed in the style of popular paper mache figures
In the towns of San Martin Tilcajete and San Antonio Arrazola
the figures are carved from the twisted branches of the copal tree
The wood has a particular fragrance and its resin has been burned in ceremonial incense burners for thousands of years
Pottery (Ceramica) — Atzompa
A few words about buying crafts in OaxacaPricing — Prices vary depending on the quality of the product and where you make your purchase
prices in Oaxaca City’s Mercado de Artesanias are generally no higher than what you find in artisan homes
Shipping — Most craft shops can pack your purchases for shipment
So if you see something fragile you’d like to get home in one piece
ask if they can pack the materials securely
Go on your own — If you go to craft villages on your own
Many package tours insist on a commission (paid from the artisan to the guide) and rates can go up to 40%
not a show,” says one tourism expert
For more info— Shoppers interested in understanding how traditional craft production fits in to conscientious travel and ecotourism should review our guide to Tourism and Crafts
Headlineshttps://www.orartswatch.org/richard-keis-photographing-the-craftspeople-of-oaxaca/
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Theme: NewsUp by Themeansar
Two armed robbery suspects and a bus passenger died in México state Thursday morning after other passengers on the bus apparently rose up against a pair of alleged would-be robbers who had tried to steal their belongings
El Universal newspaper reported that while the bus was traveling on the Mexico City–Querétaro highway
a pair of thieves began shouting threats and shooting off firearms in the bus
wounding an unidentified male passenger whom police described as in his 60s
he died on the bus before the driver could contact police
Police said they believe that after the man was wounded
some of the passengers eventually managed to overcome the pair and shoot them
routinely travels between México state and Mexico City
The incident took place between Coyetepec and the Metro Polytechnic and Metro Valle subway stations in Mexico City
After passengers threw the bodies off the bus
witnesses say the driver continued until reaching the Tepotzotlán toll plaza
where the passengers exited the bus to find other connections and the driver notified authorities
One recent tally of robberies with violence on public transit in the state revealed there had been on average 19 per day since January
Source: El Universal (sp)
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A father managed to defied all the odds by rescuing his kidnapped daughter following a 'real-life Taken' situation
For those who are unaware, the Taken series is one of the most loved action-thrillers to have ever been released
The star of the show is very much Liam Neeson
who plays Bryan Mills - a former government operative trying to reconnect with his daughter Kim (Maggie Grace)
his worst fear becomes a reality as human traffickers abduct Kim and her friend
meaning Bryan must carry out every single thing he learnt in the black ops to rescue her
Well, the harrowing plot turned into a reality for a Californian man whose daughter went on a bike ride one afternoon and did not return
Bryce Weiner was living in a quiet neighborhood where moments of crime are very much few and far between
However, in August 2010, Weiner's 14-year-old daughter was manipulated by an individual into crossing the Mexican border
The kidnapper also revoked all of the teen's access to cellular devices
essentially meaning she was unable to contact anyone
She eventually ended up 3,000 miles away from home
was kept in a place where she couldn't go outside and had no money
Weiner's daughter was beaten and psychologically abused in harrowing circumstances
The authorities were not of much help to the devastated dad either
as she was technically not taken 'strictly against her will'
Rather than treating the incident as a kidnapping
local authorities dubbed it as an 'endangered runaway'
Three years went by with no answers forthcoming for Weiner
so he eventually decided to take matters into his own hands by driving 5,000 miles from Los Angeles to Coyotepec
with Weiner pretending to be a deaf 'beggar' in order to deter attention
the man's daughter managed to escape in the middle of the night
but she had no knowledge her father was in Mexico
the teen remarkably ran barefoot to the US embassy where she was finally reunited with Weiner after three traumatic years
Weiner told the 'real-life Taken' story on social media
penning on Facebook in November 2013: "To all those who gave up
or told me it was impossible… You were wrong."
He also addressed the situation on X in 2021
writing: "My daughter disappeared from our quiet suburban neighborhood in August of 2010
and the State Department I travelled 5,000 miles into Mexico and did what everyone said was impossible
Topics: News, World News, US News