The pools of Cuatro Ciénegas (four marshes) in Coahuila’s Chihuahua Desert conceal a very old secret: the origins of life on Earth
They are inhabited by colonies of bacteria-formed stromatolites
organisms considered the inventors of photosynthesis
They are formed by bacteria that use water
carbon dioxide and sunlight to create food
The real significance of stromatolites is that they are the earliest fossil evidence of how life began
Cuatro Ciénegas is a unique biosphere — literally an oasis in the desert at an altitude of 740 meters
the area owes its name to abundant springs that form extensive marshes and pools in the middle of the desert
The city is formally known as Cuatro Ciénegas de Carranza
The intriguing landscape is the result of a sea that
emerged at the same time as the Sierra Madre Oriental
Its folded and fractured marine rocks formed most of its mountain ranges and hills
Two things immediately strike you about Cuatro Ciénegas: tomb-like silence and the surreal shroud that encases it
Some say they feel currents of occult energy flowing like fog
It flows steadily through the transparent azure wells
the energy is peaceful except by the old mines where it is sad
you may hear your soul coming out to mingle with the soul of creation
Some writers claim you need four-wheel drive to visit all sites of interest
Pozo Azul and Las Dunas de Yeso are the two most photographed
Next are Poza la Becerra and Río Mezquites
Other attractions include the Bodegas Ferriño Winery and a spectacular canyon in the nearby mountains
The gypsum dunes rise to 12 meters and resemble those of White Sands
From 1979 to 1996 it was mined — scooped up — on an industrial scale at Cuatro Ciénegas
Scientists believe there are clues to life on ancient Earth in the landscape — microbes
There are live stromatolites in the pools and fossils on the edges
These cauliflower-like sponges are relics of the earliest microbes on earth
The area has been designated a biological reserve
But farmers still extract water and miners and bucket loaders still shovel gypsum
a United Nations-recognized biosphere reserve
In 2007 president Felipe Calderón took a few baby steps to limit water extraction on the Chihuahua Desert
Two things menace the springs — huge alfalfa farms that suck water from the aquifer and Arundo Donax
an invasive giant reed that threatens native species and the water supply
Compared to my first trip three decades ago
my guess is that 30% of the pools are gone or covered
Meanwhile a debate rages about which herbicide will be safe enough to kill the invaders
There are reputed to be more than 500 springs feeding the pools
Water temperatures vary by season and pool
Averages are 20 C in Poza Azul (winter) to a balmy 32 C in Poza Escobedo (summer)
Swimming and camping are allowed only at Poza Becerra
But we saw swimmers elsewhere who missed the memo
If you don’t need a college-level lecture on the ecosystem
On many paths there are signs describing the flora and fauna as well as in a remarkably good on-site museum
the folks at the Plaza Hotel recommended Raúl
a man in his 30s who spoke English and had a friendly
He took us where we needed to go; told us what we needed to know
The photographer wanted to do some astrophotography at the dunes
The access road was blocked by a locked iron gate at night but Raúl had a key
we went to the dunes and he shot to his heart’s content
Owners of the few restaurants came out and greeted us like family
We also visited President Carranza’s museum
You can camp at Poza la Becerra or there are four good hotels
There’s Hacienda del Caballo (1,200 pesos)
San Pablo (840) and the luxury Hacienda (1,800)
inexpensive restaurants on the town square and at most hotels
Cuatro Ciénegas is in northeastern Coahuila
From Piedras Negras it’s 306 kilometers
dry temperatures in the day and a little cooler at night
October-November highs average 24-28 C with lows of 9-15 C
Visiting the stromatolites at Cuatro Ciénegas is like going back four billion years to view the beginning of life
“Mexico Mike” Nelson was a prolific author of books and articles about Mexico travel and culture in the 1980s and 1990s. Rumors of his demise are only partially true. He says he’s just been resting on his laurels. More of his work can be found at https://www.mexicomike.com
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It was more than 20 years ago when Félix Lumbreras first saw with his own eyes that the Churince lagoon was disappearing
The lagoon was once the largest body of water in Cuatrociénegas
a UNESCO-recognized wetland nestled in a mountain valley in Mexico’s Chihuahuan desert whose name literally means “four marshes.” The last remnant of a prehistoric ocean that vanished as the earth’s continents were forming
Cuatrociénegas is home to unique bacteria that scientists believe hold the key to understanding how life on earth began
When Lumbreras visited in 2000 to measure water levels in the reserve
he estimated the Churince lagoon had receded seven meters in a year
When he returned seven or eight years later
he found in its place scattered skeletons of endangered turtles
“What they did in 20 years won’t be recovered in a hundred,” said Lumbreras
Churince started to disappear after Mexico’s dairy industry arrived in the area in the early 2000s in search of new land to grow cattle feed
Dozens of new wells were drilled in a valley a 15-minute drive south of the lagoon
from which massive amounts of water continue to be pumped out from the ground today
Scientists fear Cuatrociénegas is on the verge of collapse
bled dry by the vast fields of water-hungry feed crops that now blanket the valley and the many wells and water systems that tap into the aquifer beneath
“They’re sucking it up from below,” Juan Carlos Ibarra
The arrival of dairy companies in Cuatrociénegas has created a climate of lawlessness and corruption around one of the most important ecosystems in the world
has illegally occupied their land and stolen their water for close to a decade using fraud
OCCRP’s analysis shows Beta may be using as much as 13 times its legal allotment of water to cultivate crops
despite having no licenses in the municipality
Not only has Mexico’s national water agency done nothing to prevent such over-extraction
it even appears to frequently act in the dairy industry’s favor
Neither Beta Santa Mónica nor the national water agency
responded to multiple requests for comment
Tanque Nuevo is a dusty village of gravel roads and frequent water shortages
The remnants of an abandoned restaurant greet visitors who occasionally turn off the highway
its adobe mud houses bake in searing temperatures that can reach 47 degrees Celsius (116 Fahrenheit.)
verdant green fields fed by industrial irrigation systems stretch across the Hundido valley to the feet of the surrounding hills
which arrived in the valley around the turn of the century
its fields of alfalfa spread so far you can see them from space
But while Beta’s presence in the Hundido valley is undeniable
its legal right to be there is more questionable
Slide the bar across to compare satellite images of the Hundido Valley before and after dairy farms arrived
Beta’s lack of proper paperwork first landed the company in trouble not long after it arrived
Mexico’s state environmental protection agency temporarily halted its operations for failing to conduct a legally required environmental impact assessment and illegally using the land for agriculture
Such changes had wiped out endemic plant life across the valley
Beta was ordered to spend 1 million Mexican pesos (the equivalent of US$98,000 at the time) on restoration
Beta Santa Mónica’s farms in the Hundido Valley operate on land owned communally by collectives of farmers
Ejidos are a form of collective land ownership in Mexico
created during the reforms that followed the Mexican Revolution a century ago
Each ejido unites tens or sometimes hundreds of ejidatarios
Although individual ejidatarios can own parcels of land
common land cannot be transferred under Mexican agrarian law
Earlier that same year, the farmers of Tanque Nuevo allege, the dairy giant started illegally taking over the land they collectively own
Beta uses the land based on agreements struck in a series of community assemblies between 2002 and 2004
Official meeting minutes from the time say the community agreed to transfer portions of its land
along with groundwater extraction licenses
to 11 individuals that included a Beta director
But five community leaders and farmers from Tanque Nuevo told OCCRP that the meetings never took place
which the farmers submitted to court as evidence
including that the water license transfers didn’t exist in CONAGUA’s national records
Four community members whose signatures appeared on the paperwork later testified in court they didn’t even know several of the people who they supposedly granted the right to use their land
several of the alleged proxies themselves testified that they had received the land lawfully as local residents
the accused public officials and government agencies all testified that the accusations were baseless and that the transfers were all above board
All insisted that the company had not been involved
when the farmers say Beta annexed thousands more hectares of their land by fencing it in
Anyone who tries to set foot inside the area
‘We’re going to put up a fence so that the animals don’t get in,’” said Enrique Gonzalez
the farmers claim that the dairy company laid claim to the land inside the fence
the farmers lodged a legal complaint to reclaim the land they said Beta took illegally
declaring the original contentious meeting null and void
meaning that all the land and water rights being used by Beta should have returned to their former owners
That court order has still not been executed
the farmers have spent the last 13 years fighting to see it enforced through a string of ongoing lawsuits and criminal complaints
The thousands of pages of court documents they have accumulated describe an intricate web of fraud
and power behind the politics of water in Cuatrociénegas
Beta’s legal representative denied knowing of any unlawful possession of the ejidos’ land
The company declined to respond to OCCRP’s questions about the land
The farmers allege public officials forged documents to help Beta commit the land theft and later try to kill their lawsuit
All the contested paperwork features the same handful of public officials
including local notaries and representatives of the agrarian agency
which are meant to act in the interest of farmers
a woman who used to work with a lawyer who has represented Beta claimed to have been granted power-of-attorney for the farmers
and quickly withdrew their legal complaint
But the farmers say the paperwork was fraudulent
pointing out that one of the farmers who apparently signed the document is illiterate
The farmers also highlight a meeting the following year at which they supposedly chose three people to make decisions on their behalf regarding the lawsuit — two of whom then promptly withdrew it
Yet at least two of the people who apparently voted for these representatives were dead at the time
according to death certificates seen by OCCRP
There were “many forged signatures of ejidatarios who never attended the assemblies” among the paperwork
The farmers are still fighting to overturn these empowerments today
and say they have been offered bribes to give up
Gonzalez said he now lives in a state of constant fear
I stop and look first to see whether or not it’s someone I know,” he said
“Sometimes when I go to [the cities of] Saltillo or Torreón
Beta states in promotional material that its water use is environmentally sustainable
But an analysis by OCCRP shows the firm could be extracting anywhere between 3.3 and 13 times its legal allowance
Beta is licensed to extract 3.5 million cubic meters of water per year under its own name in the entire state of Coahuila
Companies are also allowed to nominate proxies to extract water
even including all known proxies for the company — ones that are named in the farmers’ court case — the maximum the company is allowed to extract is 14 million cubic meters
Satellite data from the Hundido valley shows Beta irrigates approximately 1,577 hectares of crops
According to Mexico’s agriculture ministry
one hectare of alfalfa needs at least 22,500 cubic meters of water every year
meaning Beta’s fields must require an annual minimum of 47 million cubic meters
This figure could well be significantly higher
Beta says its Tanque Nuevo ranch produces 240,000 tonnes of fodder each year
A single kilogram of dried alfalfa typically requires about 853 liters of water to produce
meaning Beta’s fodder could be using some 182 million cubic meters of water each year
OCCRP put these figures to Beta but received no response
the director of the protected nature reserve
to investigate the true situation in Cuatrociénegas
Despite complaints about Beta’s overextraction
CONAGUA has not issued a single sanction against the company since it arrived in the Hundido valley
according to a freedom of information request filed by OCCRP
The agency’s registry shows Beta does not have a single license under its own name in the municipality
and the ejidatarios of Tanque Nuevo claim that the majority of the 17 wells it controls on their land are illegal
they make it harder to tell if the company is over-extracting and deflects legal liability
Ibarra said he reports suspicious wells inside the nature reserve
but the water agency does not inform him of whether it takes action
Data released to OCCRP shows that as of early 2021 CONAGUA had sent no inspectors to the municipality for two years
and in the two decades after the dairy firms arrived
none of them for wells inside the nature reserve
a ranch set up by former Lala executive Florentino Rivero Alonso
was sanctioned twice for operating wells without a license and failing to monitor how much water it was using
Mexico designated water a national security issue in 2004
Nearly 85 percent of the country was in drought this spring and 70 percent of the country is considered at risk of becoming desert
When farmers seized control of a dam in drought-hit Chihuahua in the fall of 2020
the response from the National Guard left a protester dead
Activists and governmental audits have repeatedly warned that CONAGUA is failing to protect the country’s water supplies
often to beneficiaries lacking the proper paperwork
almost a quarter of Mexico’s aquifers are overexploited
meaning new extraction licenses cannot be issued
Water researcher Cuauhtémoc Osorno Córdova said that is exactly when some turn to more clandestine methods
“[It’s] not only the industrialists and agriculturalists
but many times it’s been the municipal governments themselves,” he said
One problem is that CONAGUA classifies the aquifers beneath Tanque Nuevo and Cuatrociénegas as distinct
so companies were allowed to extract water from under one but not the other
say these aquifers are both part of one underground body
meaning water pumped out of one place may also drain the protected reserve
Overextraction has also meant that wells used by locals are yielding lower-quality water
The decision to classify the aquifers as different bodies of water was made while CONAGUA was led by the former director of Lala
the largest dairy company in Latin America
Cristobal Jaime Jáquez became the agency’s director in 2000
just as Lala and other dairy companies were flocking to the valleys around Cuatrociénegas
including claims that he allowed the dairy industry to destroy the underground aquifers by permitting improprieties
Jaime wasn’t the only CONAGUA official with a cosy relationship with the dairy industry
Its former state delegate left to become Beta’s defense lawyer in the battle against the farmers of Tanque Nuevo
Documents seen by OCCRP show another state delegate
including for granting permits in an overexploited aquifer and connections to a harassment campaign
Activists working to protect Mexico’s water said that the agency has improved in some areas
but that chronic underfunding and dysfunctional bureaucracy have complicated efforts at reform
“CONAGUA is really a nest of hornets,” said renowned biologist Valeria Souza
who has worked on Cuatrociénegas for decades
“Everybody's involved in different ways in this web of corruption of the water management.”
The rising tensions over water in Cuatrociénegas reached a boiling point in October 2020
when local farmers attacked environmentalists as they tried to block a decades-old canal that drains water from the reserve
It was work that should have been done by CONAGUA
which has been legally obligated to close the canal since 2010
Its failure to do so left volunteers to step in and put themselves at risk
who at that time was the director of NGO Pro Natura
said their work was interrupted by a group of locals led by an employee of the mayor’s office who had reportedly threatened them before
“They’d already been there for four hours threatening us
when the police arrived and grabbed us,” he told OCCRP
“The municipal police said to me that it’d be better for me to leave Cuatrociénegas and never come back.”
“The Lagunera region is a hydraulic society Those who have water have power.”
Francisco Valdés PerezgasgaScientist and activist
A few hours’ drive south from Cuatrociénegas lies a region known as La Lagunera. Here, where both Beta and Lala first began their work, vast white plains of cracked earth have replaced a once-thriving lake. What drinking water is left has reportedly been poisoned with toxic levels of arsenic
Scientist-activist Francisco Valdés Perezgasga said the area was ruined by dairy companies that illegally used water resources
and even had armed men prevent inspectors from examining illegal wells
“The Lagunera region is a hydraulic society,” he said
According to information released to OCCRP
one landowner in Cuatrociénegas was sanctioned for refusing entry to the visiting CONAGUA inspector
said Mexico’s water wars will hurt the poorest the most
“The rich people will get the deeper wells and have irrigation
the poor people have to migrate to more miserable lands,” she said
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Their designation allows these rural destinations to consolidate their position as key players in sustainable tourism and community development
Another 20 villages have been chosen to join the Upgrade Programme
UN Tourism Secretary-General Zurab Pololikashvili noted that “tourism is an essential tool for inclusion
empowering rural communities to protect and value their rich cultural heritage while driving sustainable development
The ‘Best Tourism Villages’ initiative not only recognizes the remarkable achievements of these villages
but also highlights the transformative power of tourism
these communities can foster economic growth
promote local traditions and improve the quality of life for their residents
We celebrate the villages that have embraced tourism as a path to community empowerment and well-being
demonstrating that sustainable practices can lead to a brighter future for all.”
UN Tourism’s ‘Best Tourism Villages’ initiative was created in 2021 to promote the role of tourism in rural areas while preserving landscapes
The ‘Best Tourism Villages’ (BTV) network is growing every year
and with the announcement of its 75 new members
254 villages are now part of the world’s largest community of rural destinations
Uniting rural destinations for sustainable development
The ‘Best Tourism Villages’ initiative is part of UN Tourism’s Rural Development Program
The Program strives to enhance development and inclusion in rural areas
foster innovation and value chain integration through tourism
the villages were evaluated in nine main areas: 1
promotion and conservation of cultural resources; 3
Tourism development and value chain integration; 7
– “Best Tourism Villages by UN Tourism”: Recognizes outstanding examples of rural tourism destinations with recognized cultural and natural assets
a commitment to the preservation of community values
and a clear commitment to innovation and sustainability in the economic
– “Best Tourism Villages by UN Tourism Upgrade Programme”: supports villages in their efforts to meet the recognition criteria
helping them to improve in areas identified as a weakness during the assessment
– The “Best Tourism Villages” network: A space to exchange experiences and good practices
lessons learned and opportunities among its members
which is open to contributions from experts and public and private sector partners who contribute to the promotion of tourism as a driver of rural development
The 55 “Best Tourism Villages by UN Tourism 2024” are (in alphabetical order):
The call for submissions for the fifth edition will take place in early 2025
providing a new opportunity for rural destinations to share their inspiring initiatives and gain global recognition as champions of rural development
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according to the UNThe organisation’s initiative aims to promote ‘responsible
sustainable and universally accessible tourism’
We know a thing or two about cities at Time Out
but there is actually more to life than the lively
buzzing streets of ultra-modern metropolises – sometimes you just want a bit of quaint tranquillity.
Thankfully, every year UN Tourism releases a list of the world’s ‘best tourism villages’
which is curated based on destinations which are doing the most outstanding work when it comes to preserving their culture
community and traditions through tourism projects.
We reported on the open call for villages that the organisation announced earlier this year
but now the best villages to visit in 2025 have been revealed (though it’s not a ranking – they’re listed in alphabetical order).
The most exciting thing is that all corners of the planet get included in the list
Three villages in Mexico have been highlighted: Capulálpam de Méndez
which is nestled in the mountains of Oaxaca state
which is famous for its springs and swamps
which is full of vibrantly painted colonial-era architecture.
a tiny but stunningly scenic mountain top village was included
a Chinese settlement which is home to Hani people
Read on for the full list of 55 brilliant villages to visit next year.
You can read all about the UN initiative on the website here, and check out the villages which were spotlighted last year here.
Did you see that this popular European tourist attraction is capping its visitor numbers
Plus: These are the best underrated places to travel in 2025.
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Tuesday | May 06 2025 |
UN Tourism announced its selection of 55 villages as the Best Tourism Villages for 2024
highlighting their contributions to sustainable tourism and community development
Chosen from over 260 applicants across 60 countries
these villages were acknowledged for their commitment to preserving cultural heritage and promoting sustainable practices
UN Tourism Secretary-General Zurab Pololikashvili emphasised the role of tourism in empowering rural communities and driving sustainable development sharing
The Best Tourism Villages initiative not only recognises the remarkable achievements of these villages but also highlights the transformative power of tourism
and enhance the quality of life for their residents
We celebrate the villages that have embraced tourism as a pathway to empowerment and community well-being
aims to enhance tourism's impact in rural areas by preserving landscapes and traditions
The evaluation of villages focussed on nine criteria
Promotion and Conservation of Cultural Resources
Tourism Development and Value Chain Integration
serves as a platform for sharing best practices and experiences
The 55 Best Tourism Villages by UN Tourism 2024 are (in alphabetical order):
Saudi Arabia
seven villages from the Upgrade Programme gained recognition this year
demonstrating improved practices through mentorship and focussed support
The 20 new participants in the Upgrade Programme have the opportunity to develop their tourism offerings further
Submissions for the fifth edition will open in early 2025
encouraging more rural destinations to showcase their initiatives
vivek.mittal@businessworld.in, amit.bhasin@businessworld.in
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