the historic road connecting Mérida and Campeche
was more than just a route—it was a lifeline that shaped the economic
and cultural fabric of the Yucatán Peninsula
But it was in the 19th century that the first major strides in shedding Yucatán’s isolation began with improvements to the Camino Real between the region’s two most important cities, Mérida and Campeche, as well as the then-preeminent port of Sisal
consider that Quintana Roo to the east did not even become a state until 1974
its population was so small that it remained a territory.
While it’s impossible to follow the exact path of the old Royal Road
most of it has been destroyed by more modern infrastructure projects
the Camino Real between Mérida and Campeche would become almost entirely connected by cobblestone roads used to ease travel for peonies (agricultural workers) and the likes of Empress Charlotte of Mexico in 1865
when she is said to have taken a detour to visit the ancient Maya city of Uxmal
the Royal Road began in the Ermita neighborhood through the arch of San Juan
it was customary to first take mass at the nearby Ermita de Santa Isabel chapel — built in the 17th century — to help ensure a safe journey
the “typical” route and scheduled stops varied slightly
we will stick to the main way points and points of interest along the way to Campeche.
Roughly 20 kilometers south of Mérida is Umán
a town that served as a crucial rest stop for travelers and caravans
Umán was known for its agricultural production
which sustained both locals and those passing through
Its location made it an essential point for resupplying before continuing the journey westward
Umán is considered a satellite of Mérida and is known for its market and impressive former convent of San Francisco de Asís
which today functions as the city’s main Catholic church and landmark.
About 60 kilometers southwest of Mérida, Maxcanú emerged as a key crossroads on the Camino Real. This town was a junction where routes from different parts of the peninsula converged, making it a hub for trade and transportation. During the henequen boom
facilitating the movement of goods between the interior and the coast
Halachó’s name means “place of the Halach Uinic” (a Mayan term for a high-ranking leader or ruler)
but in a callback to its location on the state line between Yucatán and Campeche
“Halacho” has come to mean “let’s get going.”
made it an ideal resting spot for travelers
who could replenish their supplies and rest before continuing their journey
traces of the Camino Real can still be found in and around Halachó
offering a tangible connection to the past
The road’s legacy is evident in the town’s layout
with its central plaza and surrounding streets reflecting the traditional design of colonial-era settlements
As the Camino Real entered the state of Campeche
a town famous for its artisanal jipi japa hats (also known as Panama hats; just don’t tell the locals)
These finely woven palm fiber hats symbolized the region’s craftsmanship
offering weary travelers a chance to recuperate before continuing
Known as the “Athens of Campeche,” Calkiní is a testament to the region’s rich history
it became a significant colonial town along the Camino Real
reflected the blending of indigenous and Spanish influences that defined the region
Hecelchakán was often the final stop on the way to Campeche’s capital of the same name
Hecelchakán became a cultural and religious exchange point
Missionaries used the road to spread Christianity
and the town became a center for establishing churches and other religious institutions
Hecelchakán boasts some awe-inspiring architecture and intrinsically decorated facades
The tiny community of Hampolol sits on the outskirts of Campeche and boasts one of the best-preserved sections of the Camino Real and a bridge used to cross the tiny town’s wetlands
The earliest reference to this bridge dates to 1649
it had been upgraded to carry heavier cargo by the 19th century at the latest
when Empress Carlota made her way across this forgotten marvel
The Hampolol Bridge is an example of colonial engineering and reflects the architectural styles of the time
It was constructed using traditional methods and materials
The existing highway to Campeche entirely bypasses Hampolol
you must make a U-turn just after passing the town and enter through a narrow road.
is a historic port city on the Gulf of Mexico in Campeche
it became one of the most important cities in colonial New Spain due to its strategic location
The city was a vital link in the transatlantic trade network
Ships from Campeche carried goods to Spain and returned with European manufactured goods
Campeche also facilitated trade within the Caribbean and other colonial ports in the Americas
The Spanish built extensive fortifications to protect the city and its economic interests
These defenses helped safeguard the flow of goods and wealth from the likes of famous pirates like Henry Morgan and Francis Drake.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer
and translation degrees from universities in Mexico
corn was celebrated as a basis for gastronomy
Is leather a smart choice for your sofa or sectional in Yucatán
Iván Ramírez Gamboa was captivated by classic cartoons like Looney Tunes
where the visual humor and expressiveness of characters like the Road Runner spoke louder than dialogue. Unlike popular series of the time
such as “Dragon Ball,” cartoon characters like Bugs Bunny inspired him with their dynamism and simplicity
Last night’s fireworks were pretty intense as we ushered in the 20s
A nonstop barrage of sound and smoke for 45 minutes was a spectacle for people
but terrifying show for some dogs and cats inhabiting the city
We have and published and republished advice on keeping your pets calm during fireworks celebrations
Skies are clear and temperatures are pleasant for tonight’s Noche Blanca. For its 10th edition
the sprawling citywide festival of art and music pretty much takes over Merida’s historic center at 8 p.m.
The nearly 200 events are too numerous to list
although the city has a searchable database here. Tomen…
What seemed like a normal day at the ADO bus station quickly became special when La OperaMaya took over
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It doesn’t matter which month you come to visit
there will most likely be a festival somewhere
Did you know that many of the festivals have religious origins? They are known as the “Patron Saint Festivals
I encourage you to read about them and check out what is going to be happening while you are here—or maybe even plan another visit to make sure you catch them
Every January, the city sets out to celebrate the founding of Mérida—January 6
During Mérida Fest you will find many dance performances
a march between Santa Lucía Park and Plaza Grande
This takes place on January 5 in the evening and ends at midnight with the Mañanitas: the traditional Mexican birthday song
www.merida.gob.mx/meridafest
and lots of color await you every year during the Carnaval de Mérida
The date changes yearly and is based on Easter Sunday.
More info: www.merida.gob.mx/carnaval
Activities during the festival include traditional Yucatecan dances
This is a festival where it is customary to make a garment for the image of Christ and lay down at its feet.
FB: Fiesta Tradicional De Chumayel
You will not believe everything that you are going to see made from our beloved Queso de Bola, or Edam Cheese. This festival highlights street food, traditional dishes, and inventions made from this popular ingredient. It has been held at the Motul main square, but also at different locations in Mérida
This is a delicious event with plenty of offerings
so it’s a good idea to keep up with them on Facebook
FB: Festival Nacional del Queso de Bola-Yucatán
This festival is oh-so-perfectly refreshing for breaking up the tropical heat in the summer
Besides offering ice cream and popsicles you will also find frappés
the dates and location may vary; we’ll keep you posted
FB: Festival del Helado en Yucatán
From July 14 to August 4 the town of Halachó is in festival mode
and the local fair are all festivities you shouldn’t miss.
FB: H. Ayuntamiento Halachó 2021-2024
Honoring Santo Domingo de Guzmán the first two weeks of August
FB: H. Ayuntamiento San Felipe Yucatán 2021-2024
The Dzityá artisans get together every summer (late July/early August) and offer the best of their products, which include stone, wood, textiles, and jewelry. Food and fair activities are also offered. Just minutes north of Merida
This year the dates are from July 25 to August 3
www.merida.gob.mx/tunich
Welcome to the village of Tekit, the Capital of the Guayabera, where you will find the finest garments. The good news? This fair is held twice a year in August and December, and is only a 50-minute drive from Mérida
The 2024 summer edition is from July 20th to August 4th.
FB: Feria de la Guayabera Tekit
October is when we honor our departed loved ones
is a time when the local traditions and culture relating to death are lived by all
You will see altars honoring departed loved ones
www.merida.gob.mx/animas
and goods exhibitions attract thousands of people during the last three weeks of November to this fair
www.feriayucatan.gob.mx
Stands, decorative figures, parade floats decorated with citric fruits, plus cultural events, dances, and contests are all part of this mega agricultural fair. Can you imagine an enormous sculpture of the Pyramid from Chichén Itzá crafted out of oranges? You’ll find it in Oxkutzcab (known as the “orchard of the state”), located 1.5 hours from Mérida
This 2024 it will be from December 7 to the 17th.
FB: H. Ayuntamiento Oxkutzcab
December 8 is when the yellow town of Izamal honors Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. The statue of this saint is housed in the San Antonio de Padua Convent. Festivities begin on November 29 and go on for two weeks. Visit Izamal and enjoy the pilgrimages
and the serenade to the Virgin on December 7 in the evening
FB: Feria Izamal 08 DIC
This religious celebration and fiesta is held from December 19-26 in the village of Espita
Things begin in the church with the lowering of the saint from its niche on December 19
FB: Ayuntamiento de Espita
this festival begins when the Three Kings or Wise Men statues are lowered from their niches in the church
an Alborada (march from a Ceiba tree to the bullfight ring)
including lots of food stands and mechanical rides.
FB: Tizimín de Reyes
we accompany the traveler so that they can experience the authentic essence of Yucatán
Teacher protests in Mérida are now relatively tranquil affairs
A teachers’ camp opposite the Government Palace has been erected in solidarity with the National Coordinator of Education Workers (CNTE)
set fire to vehicles and otherwise caused chaos in Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico
Similar small demonstrations were reported in Valladolid
A small number of protesters — fewer than 20 — gathered yesterday at the Plaza Grande
in a march in the Centro they totaled about 1,500
and about 200 blocked the road to the airport
where teachers and normalistas burned three buses and a truck
in which they agreed to organize a forum to analyze the extent of teacher evaluations at the root of the protests
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Uber drivers today began circling the city’s streets waiting for their smartphones to ping
Mexico’s first non-Pemex gas stations will open in Mexico this July
although none in Yucatán have yet been announced
Has the coronavirus pandemic dampened the future of expat living
Three-quarters of people who moved to another country for business or cultural pursuits — including 70% in Mexico — say they are confident about continuing to live abroad
according to an Aetna International survey
Aetna found that seven in 10 people whose plans to…
If your idea of a perfect getaway involves staying in luxurious accommodations
and receiving exceptional service at a stunning beachside location
you’ll want to explore these top 5-star resorts in Tulum for inspiration
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the Mezzanine Hotel Tulum offers an intimate escape with just nine…
Will a love ballad called “Mi Canto a Mérida,” or “My Song to Mérida,” catch on
On the highway that connects Mérida and Progreso
another US-based fast food chain is under construction
Joining the long-entrenched McDonald’s and Burger King is America’s second-leading burger franchise
It’s at least the second attempt by Wendy’s to enter the area