the historic road connecting Mérida and Campeche
was more than just a route—it was a lifeline that shaped the economic
and cultural fabric of the Yucatán Peninsula
But it was in the 19th century that the first major strides in shedding Yucatán’s isolation began with improvements to the Camino Real between the region’s two most important cities, Mérida and Campeche, as well as the then-preeminent port of Sisal
consider that Quintana Roo to the east did not even become a state until 1974
its population was so small that it remained a territory.
While it’s impossible to follow the exact path of the old Royal Road
most of it has been destroyed by more modern infrastructure projects
the Camino Real between Mérida and Campeche would become almost entirely connected by cobblestone roads used to ease travel for peonies (agricultural workers) and the likes of Empress Charlotte of Mexico in 1865
when she is said to have taken a detour to visit the ancient Maya city of Uxmal
the Royal Road began in the Ermita neighborhood through the arch of San Juan
it was customary to first take mass at the nearby Ermita de Santa Isabel chapel — built in the 17th century — to help ensure a safe journey
the “typical” route and scheduled stops varied slightly
we will stick to the main way points and points of interest along the way to Campeche.
Roughly 20 kilometers south of Mérida is Umán
a town that served as a crucial rest stop for travelers and caravans
Umán was known for its agricultural production
which sustained both locals and those passing through
Its location made it an essential point for resupplying before continuing the journey westward
Umán is considered a satellite of Mérida and is known for its market and impressive former convent of San Francisco de Asís
which today functions as the city’s main Catholic church and landmark.
About 60 kilometers southwest of Mérida, Maxcanú emerged as a key crossroads on the Camino Real. This town was a junction where routes from different parts of the peninsula converged, making it a hub for trade and transportation. During the henequen boom
facilitating the movement of goods between the interior and the coast
Halachó’s name means “place of the Halach Uinic” (a Mayan term for a high-ranking leader or ruler)
but in a callback to its location on the state line between Yucatán and Campeche
“Halacho” has come to mean “let’s get going.”
made it an ideal resting spot for travelers
who could replenish their supplies and rest before continuing their journey
traces of the Camino Real can still be found in and around Halachó
offering a tangible connection to the past
The road’s legacy is evident in the town’s layout
with its central plaza and surrounding streets reflecting the traditional design of colonial-era settlements
As the Camino Real entered the state of Campeche
a town famous for its artisanal jipi japa hats (also known as Panama hats; just don’t tell the locals)
These finely woven palm fiber hats symbolized the region’s craftsmanship
offering weary travelers a chance to recuperate before continuing
Known as the “Athens of Campeche,” Calkiní is a testament to the region’s rich history
it became a significant colonial town along the Camino Real
reflected the blending of indigenous and Spanish influences that defined the region
Hecelchakán was often the final stop on the way to Campeche’s capital of the same name
Hecelchakán became a cultural and religious exchange point
Missionaries used the road to spread Christianity
and the town became a center for establishing churches and other religious institutions
Hecelchakán boasts some awe-inspiring architecture and intrinsically decorated facades
The tiny community of Hampolol sits on the outskirts of Campeche and boasts one of the best-preserved sections of the Camino Real and a bridge used to cross the tiny town’s wetlands
The earliest reference to this bridge dates to 1649
it had been upgraded to carry heavier cargo by the 19th century at the latest
when Empress Carlota made her way across this forgotten marvel
The Hampolol Bridge is an example of colonial engineering and reflects the architectural styles of the time
It was constructed using traditional methods and materials
The existing highway to Campeche entirely bypasses Hampolol
you must make a U-turn just after passing the town and enter through a narrow road.
is a historic port city on the Gulf of Mexico in Campeche
it became one of the most important cities in colonial New Spain due to its strategic location
The city was a vital link in the transatlantic trade network
Ships from Campeche carried goods to Spain and returned with European manufactured goods
Campeche also facilitated trade within the Caribbean and other colonial ports in the Americas
The Spanish built extensive fortifications to protect the city and its economic interests
These defenses helped safeguard the flow of goods and wealth from the likes of famous pirates like Henry Morgan and Francis Drake.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer
and translation degrees from universities in Mexico
corn was celebrated as a basis for gastronomy
Is leather a smart choice for your sofa or sectional in Yucatán
Iván Ramírez Gamboa was captivated by classic cartoons like Looney Tunes
where the visual humor and expressiveness of characters like the Road Runner spoke louder than dialogue. Unlike popular series of the time
such as “Dragon Ball,” cartoon characters like Bugs Bunny inspired him with their dynamism and simplicity
Last night’s fireworks were pretty intense as we ushered in the 20s
A nonstop barrage of sound and smoke for 45 minutes was a spectacle for people
but terrifying show for some dogs and cats inhabiting the city
We have and published and republished advice on keeping your pets calm during fireworks celebrations
Skies are clear and temperatures are pleasant for tonight’s Noche Blanca. For its 10th edition
the sprawling citywide festival of art and music pretty much takes over Merida’s historic center at 8 p.m.
The nearly 200 events are too numerous to list
although the city has a searchable database here. Tomen…
What seemed like a normal day at the ADO bus station quickly became special when La OperaMaya took over
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The largest tropical forest in North America yields to perfect rows of corn and soy
Light-haired women with blue eyes in wide-brimmed hats bump down a dirt road in a horse and buggy
past simple brick homes and a whitewashed schoolhouse: A Mennonite community in southern Mexico
in the state of Campeche on the Yucatan Peninsula at the northern edge of the Maya Forest
the Mennonites say they live to traditional pacifist values and that expanding farms to provide a simple life for their families is the will of God
In the eyes of ecologists and now the Mexican government
which once welcomed their agricultural prowess
the Mennonites' ranches are an environmental disaster rapidly razing the jungle
one of the continent's biggest carbon sinks and a home to endangered jaguars
the Maya Forest is shrinking annually by an area the size of Dallas
a non-profit organisation that monitors deforestation
The government of President Andres Manuel Lopez is now pressuring the Mennonites to shift to more sustainable practices
but despite a deal between some Mennonite settlements and the government
ongoing land clearance was visible in two villages visited by Reuters in February and May
a leader in the Mennonite settlement of Chavi
"Our people just want to be left in peace," he said
standing on a shaded doorstep to escape the unforgiving afternoon sun
Beyond his neat farm rose the green wall of the rainforest
Mennonites – for whom agricultural toil is a core tenet of their Christian faith – grew in numbers and expanded into remote parts of Mexico after first arriving from Canada in the early 20th Century
Despite shunning electricity and other modern amenities away from work
their farming has evolved to include bulldozers and chainsaws as well as tractors and harvesters
Groups including palm oil farmers and cattle ranchers also engage in widespread land clearance
Data on how much deforestation is driven by Mennonite settlers and how much by other groups is not readily available
found that property owned by Mennonites in Campeche had rates of deforestation four times higher than non-Mennonite properties
The clearance contrasts with the traditions of indigenous farmers who have rotated corn and harvested forest products such as honey and natural rubber since Maya cities dominated the jungle from the Yucatan to El Salvador
Itself under international pressure to pursue a greener agenda
in August the government persuaded some Campeche Mennonite settlements to sign an agreement to stop deforesting land
On the edge of the remote village of Valle Nuevo
Reuters journalists witnessed farmers clearing jungle and setting fires to prepare for planting
a Mennonite school teacher in Valle Nuevo said the agreement had not made an impact on how Valle Nuevo approaches agriculture
"We haven't changed anything," Harder said
Leader Dyck Thiessen and a lawyer representing some communities and farmers said Mennonites
felt attacked and scapegoated by the government's efforts
said they were unfairly blamed while the government pays less attention to others that deforest
a senior official at the federal environment ministry
warned villagers the military could be brought to the area to prevent deforestation if the communities did not change their ways
"That was the direct threat," Reyna Tecua said
In response to a Reuters question about Avila's alleged comments
the environment ministry denied any mention of using the military
saying the government operated on the basis of dialogue
head of the Campeche office of Mexico's National Forestry Commission (CONAFOR)
told Reuters the government was not singling out the Mennonites and was also working to tackle other causes of deforestation
Mennonites trace their roots to a group of Christian radicals in 16th century Germany and surrounding areas that emerged in opposition to both Roman Catholic doctrine and mainstream Protestant faiths during the Reformation
a group of about 6,000 moved to northern Mexico and established themselves as important crop producers
Still speaking Plautdietsch - a blend of Low German
Prussian dialects and Dutch - a few thousand moved to the forests of Campeche in the 1980s
some from local Maya indigenous communities
More arrived in recent years as climate change worsened drought in the north
increasing deforestation and the number of farms in the state
When Mexico opened up the use of genetically modified soy in the 2000s
Mennonites in Campeche embraced the crop and the use of the glyphosate weedkiller Roundup
The higher yields means more income to support large families - 10 children is not unusual - and live a simple life supported by the land
explaining that settlements often invest as much as 90% of profits to buy land
At least five Mennonites who spoke to Reuters said they wanted to acquire more land for their families
While most Mexican Mennonites remain in the north
there are now between 14,000 and 15,000 in Campeche spread over about 20 settlements
who has attended government meetings but did not sign the agreement
The Mennonites largely maintain a tense peace with local indigenous communities who serve as guardians to the surrounding forest but also rent equipment from their new neighbors for their own land
We see that it gives us results," said Wilfredo Chicav
Such advances in agricultural efficiency has taken its toll on the Maya Forest
home to fauna that includes up to 400 species of birds
Its 100 species of mammal include the jaguar
at risk of extinction in Mexico if its habitat shrinks
the three states that comprise the forest in Mexico lost about 15,000 sq km of tree cover
an area that would cover much of El Salvador
Farmers used to schedule planting for the first of May
now they often wait until July as less forest implies less rainfall capture
leading to a drop in moisture uptake in the air and a decrease in rain
said the Mennonites in the state did not always have the right paperwork to turn the forest into farmland
Reyna Tecua acknowledged problems with land purchases
Families sometimes fall victim to deals based on a handshake and verbal word
and sellers can take advantage by promising land that is not up for legal sale in the first place
The agreement signed last year created a permanent working group between the government and Mennonite communities to try to resolve permitting
land ownership and administrative and criminal complaints against them from local people including for illegal logging
Laffon said there were signs the agreement is having an impact
Global Forest Watch data showed a decrease in deforestation in Campeche in 2021
but said that could be the result of factors including a lack of remaining land suitable for agriculture and government incentive programs
which include a nationwide scheme popular with Maya indigenous farmers that rewards tree planting
Mennonite leaders are seeking a proposal from the government that won't cut their production dramatically
A government plan to phase out glyphosate by 2024 is the biggest worry for many
Leal said lower production may be a price farmers
"We are at the point of having to sacrifice our position" as Mexico's second largest grain producer "for a healthier Campeche," she said
Lifting his cap to wipe sweat from his brow
doubted organic methods proposed by the government would be successful Tension with officials has stalled his plans to acquire more land
"If the government shuts us down," he says
(Photo Editing Kezia Levitas; Additional Reporting Adrian Virgen and Jose Luis Gonzalez; Text Editing Stephen Eisenhammer and Frank Jack Daniel; Layout Kezia Levitas)
A woman milks a cow in the Mennonite community of El Sabinal
A young man rolls a tractor wheel in the Mennonite community of El Sabinal
Children attend a class at their school in the Mennonite community of Valle Nuevo
backs his father's old tractor into a truck as he prepares to leave Chihuahua and move to Campeche state
Boys watch as rubbish is burnt outside their home in the Mennonite community of El Sabinal
Women help the Harder family to pack their belongings in the Mennonite community of El Sabinal
Members of the Harder family hold a meeting to say goodbye to other members of their family before moving to Campeche state
Wilhelm Harder holds his son Abram Harder as they prepare to leave Chihuahua and move to Campeche state
Mennonites Wilhelm Harder and his son Abram Harder sit together during a flight as they move from the Mennonite community of El Sabinal
is helped to unload his family's belongings from a truck after arriving at the Mennonite community of Valle Nuevo
A Mennonite woman and her daughter leave a store in the Mennonite community of Valle Nuevo
Pedro poses for a photo surrounded by trees he cut down with heavy machinery in the Mennonite community of Valle Nuevo
Trees are intentionally burnt to make space for crops
near the house of a family in the Mennonite community of Valle Nuevo
Smoke rises from trees that were intentionally burnt near a house in the Mennonite community of Valle Nuevo
Juan Neudorf throws a rope towards his horses in the Mennonite community of Valle Nuevo
A horse and a buggy stand outside the house of Jacob Harder
minister of the Mennonite community of El Sabinal
Wearing a mask and a face shield to curb the spread of the coronavirus
10-year-old Jade Chan Puc writes in her workbook during the first day of class in Hecelchakán
schools in Latin America and the Caribbean were closed longer than any in any other region
Alejandro Tarre is a Venezuelan writer and journalist
Before the coronavirus pandemic, education was already a problem area in Latin America. Despite meaningful progress in recent decades, more than 10 million children did not attend school and a large part of those who did attend did not meet basic learning competencies in reading
Education systems were plagued by deep structural inequalities that mirrored the wide income inequality in the region
The pandemic has made this bad situation worse. While school shutdowns were global, Latin American children have lost on average around three months more of class time than students elsewhere in the world. More than 3 million may never return to school, which UNICEF rightly calls a "generational catastrophe."
The United States tends to overlook crises in the region
The Central American migrant crisis is getting attention because it spilled into U.S
territory — and immigration is a contentious domestic political issue
But there is now a crisis that involves not only Central America but Latin America as a whole
And the migrant crisis is a reminder of the risks of ignoring — until it's too late — ongoing tragedies south of the border
Latin America is the world's epicenter of the coronavirus pandemic. With just 8% of the world's population, it has almost 30% of all fatalities from COVID-19. Uruguay, Brazil, Peru, Argentina, Colombia and Paraguay are among the top 15 countries in deaths per capita in the last seven days
have dampened the hopes of a quick recovery
Children attend a care center with tutors in Caracas
Many countries in Latin American and the Caribbean have shut schools during the coronavirus pandemic
and children from lower-income families are often unable to participate in online distance learning
the pandemic's impact here is highly unequal
Children from high-income families have been able to switch to online learning
But those from disadvantaged households often don't have Internet or lack a reliable connection
UNICEF estimates that three-quarters of the children attending private school are able to access distance education
should sign agreements with online education platforms to offer free classes to millions of children
In Latin America the pandemic has both exacerbated old problems and created new ones
The victims are not only the older generations that are more vulnerable to the coronavirus but also the children whose future is now under threat
Ignoring this tragedy could lead to intractable crises that
Colombia and Paraguay were among the top 15 countries in deaths per capita in the past seven days
A previous version of this story failed to specify the time frame — seven days
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