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A parish priest was shot dead as he drove on a rural Mexican highway on Monday
marking yet another attack in what has become the most murderous country for Catholic clergy
Augustinian Father Javier García Villafaña was killed at about 7pm (local time) in the municipality of Huandacareo in Michoacán state to the west of Mexico City
Fr García was found dead with gunshot wounds
The Morelia Archdiocese acknowledged Fr García’s death
but provided little information and did not respond to a request for comment
reported Fr García had assumed responsibility for the Our Lord of Atonement Parish in Huandacareo on April 23
The murder followed a May 21 attack on Archbishop Faustino Armendáriz Jiménez of Durango
who said an elderly man swung a knife at him in the sacristy of Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception in the northwest Mexican state
Archbishop Armendáriz was unharmed in the attack
though the knife slashed through his clothes
Fr García’s death marks the ninth fatal attack on clergy during the administration of Andrés Manuel López Obrador
according to the Catholic Multimedia Centre
Church observers lack a cogent explanation for the attacks on clergy
though they point to rising violence in Mexico after the federal government launched a crackdown on drug cartels in December 2006
The Catholic Multimedia Centre also has noted a rise in robberies
vandalism and the profaning of parishes across Mexico
it’s persecution of members of the Catholic Church
it’s persecution of the Catholic Church as such,” Fr Sotelo told OSV News
Catholic priest killed in Mexico, ninth under current president (NCR Online)
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MEXICO CITY (AP) — A Roman Catholic priest has been killed in the western Mexican state of Michoacan
the ninth slain in the country in the past four years
The church’s Catholic Multimedia Center identified the priest as Rev
who had been assigned to the Capacho parish in Huandacareo just one month earlier
The Michoacan state prosecutor’s office said that García’s body had several gunshot wounds and was found inside a vehicle
The killing came one day after the Mexican Episcopal Conference expressed its solidarity and condemnation of an attack against Monsignor Faustino Armendáriz Jiménez
archbishop of the northern state of Durango
In their quest to eliminate any threat to their operations organized criminal groups have killed journalists
in addition to any average citizens caught in their way
an elderly man tried to stab Armendáriz in Durango’s cathedral
The conference condemned García’s killing in a statement and called on authorities to find those responsible
“It is a painful reminder of the serious situation we face as a society
in which the presence of organized crime and impunity continue threatening the lives and safety of so many,” the statement said
The Catholic Multimedia Center said in the statement that García was shot while driving near Capacho on the shores of Cuitzeo lake
Michoacan has been roiled by violence for years
Multiple drug cartels vie for control of parts of the state and extend their illicit business to logging
Gangs have taken complete control of some communities
a priest in Michoacan called for parishioners to arm themselves in the face of government inaction
a parish priest is better known as “Father Pistolas” for his habit of carrying a gun
The Mexican government in recent years has done little more than send troops to act as a buffer between warring cartels in Michoacan
the church in Mexico has displayed growing frustration with the country's security situation
After a drug gang leader in the northern state of Chihuahua killed two elderly Jesuit priests and a tour guide inside a church in Cerocahui last June
the Roman Catholic Mexican Council of Bishops issued an open letter telling the government “It is time to revise the security policies that are failing.”
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Drought has dried up what was Mexico’s second-biggest lake
destroying a once thriving fishing economy in Michoacán
30 kilometers from the state capital Morelia
The dearth of water also creates frequent and prolonged dust clouds which reach municipalities 20 kilometers away in Guanajuato
That affects the health of residents in nearby communities
respiratory illnesses and gastrointestinal complications from the bacteria they transport
The more than 300-square-kilometer lakebed is located in the Michoacán municipalities of Huandacareo
honorary president of a foundation committed to conserving the lake
and authorities have made no effort to stop it
“The first blow was when the Cointzio dam was built in 1941
which meant that two-thirds of Lake Cuitzeo was removed,” she said
Gallardo added that the first noticeable impact was the disappearance of fish
which is native to the lakes of Jalisco and Michoacán
followed by white fish and other water life
“Cuitzeo should have 800 million cubic meters of water
That’s the scale of the problem,” she said
the fishing yields just 5% of what it used to in the 1990s and of the 19 species of fish documented in 1975
State Environment Secretary Ricard Luna said deforestation and the building of two highways 30 years ago
A researcher at the Michoacan University of Saint Nicholas of Hidalgo (UMSNH)
identified water demand in the state capital Morelia and waste from pig farms and industrial waste from factories
Huandacareo Mayor Celedonia Guzmán Herrera said that although mayors from the region have presented projects to rescue the lake
and deterioration of the fishing industry had caused a surge in migration to the United States
She insists that municipal authorities do not have the resources to restore the lake
and called on the Ministry of Environment and the National Water Commission to initiate a plan that municipal authorities have presented to them
Michoacán Governor Silvano Aureoles said the lake’s rescue should be tackled jointly by federal and state authorities and the 15 municipalities which surround the lake
He warned that to clean up the wastewater that reaches it would require at least 3 billion pesos (US $150 million)
which he said can only be provided by the federal government
fishermen and activists have created a petition on change.org calling for the government to rescue the lake and restore its economic activity
The petition had gathered almost 28,000 signatures by Thursday
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However, Michoacán doesn’t receive as many foreign travelers as those other states, likely because it’s on the US Department of State’s “Do Not Travel” list
This is unfortunate because Michoacán cuisine truly is one of the best and most interesting in Mexico
the US Department of State advises against all travel to Michoacan
except to two cities – Morelia and Lazaro Cardenas
That was all the assurance we needed to book bus tickets to Morelia and explore what Michoacán food was all about
If you travel for food like we do and decide to spend time in Morelia
then here are 18 great restaurants to visit for the tastiest traditional Michoacán dishes
To help you with your Morelia trip planning
we’ve compiled links to popular hotels
the best area to stay for first-time visitors to Morelia
No time to read this guide on the best restaurants in Morelia
Click on the save button and pin it for later
Michoacán is often referred to as the “soul of Mexico”
Spend a few days in Morelia and you’ll understand why
We’ve been exploring Mexico for the past eight months and the people of Morelia have been some of the warmest and most welcoming we’ve encountered thus far
and their warmth carries over to their food
You can read more about them in our Michoacán food guide
but traditional Michoacán dishes like sopa tarasca
and churipo are the type of dishes that comfort and warm you
much like your mother’s bowl of chicken noodle soup
In the words of James Beard award-winning chef Pati Jinich
the more I am convinced that the food of a place resembles the characteristics of its people.”
To help organize this list of the best restaurants in Morelia
Click on a link to jump to any section of the guide
but carnitas is our hands down favorite dish
it refers to a dish of slow-cooked pork that’s become popular throughout Mexico
no one makes it the way Michoacános do
We already loved carnitas but even more so after visiting Morelia
We enjoyed Michoacan-style carnitas so much that we had it as often as we could in the hopes of finding the best
Carnitas Don Pepe is the best carnitas restaurant you can visit near Morelia’s Historic Center
they served some of the juiciest and tastiest carnitas we enjoyed in Morelia
If you’ve had carnitas tacos in Mexico City or anywhere else in Mexico
then you may find that the carnitas in Michoacán is served a little differently
Instead of being chopped up into tiny pieces
they give you the carnitas in larger chunks with corn tortillas and condiments so you can assemble the tacos yourself
Carnitas restaurants in Morelia typically give you a mixture of different cuts of pork (surtido)
you have the option of getting surtido or especial
and aldilla (loin) while especial consists of aldilla
Both are delicious but we highly recommend getting the especial
Pictured below is a quarter kilo of especial
A quarter kilo is usually enough for one person
Not only was the carnitas at Don Pepe incredibly tasty
but their refried beans were some of the best as well
Carnitas is typically served with refried beans
The meaty parts of the pig are delicious but what makes carnitas truly special is the cueritos or pork skin
They have a gelatinous texture that goes so well with the other cuts of meat
Carnitas Don Pepe is located about an 8-10 minute walk west of Plaza de Armas (zocalo)
but there don’t seem to be any carnitas restaurants located in the heart of the Historic District
Here’s Ren eagerly digging into her carnitas
you’ll find that carnitas is served in varying portions from a quarter to a full kilo
This is standard at all carnitas restaurants in Morelia
Carnitas Jorge is another carnitas restaurant that isn’t too far from the zocalo
It’s on the same block as Carnitas Don Pepe so you can visit both on the same day
What you’re looking at below is a half kilo of carnitas
Unlike the other carnitas restaurants on this list
Carnitas Jorge serves you whole pinto beans
Carnitas Jorge is another good carnitas restaurant to visit if you’d rather not stray too far from the zocalo
After visiting the previous two restaurants
you’ll need to walk a bit farther to get to more carnitas restaurants in Morelia
Carnitas Huandacareo is about a 20-25 minute walk from the zocalo but it’s worth the trek if you want more carnitas in Morelia
Pictured below is a quarter kilo of carnitas
It’s a little blurry but still incredibly sexy
Carnitas Huandacareo is a small family-run restaurant that serves tasty carnitas in Morelia
If you saw the carnitas episode on Taco Chronicles
then this next restaurant may be familiar to you
Thanks to the popularity of that Netflix series
Carnitas Don Raul is perhaps the most popular carnitas restaurant in Morelia
It’s located about a 30-minute walk from the zocalo but it’s definitely worth the effort
Check out those glistening strips of cueritos or pork skin
Perhaps due to the popularity it gained from the show
Carnitas Don Raul was the most expensive carnitas restaurant we visited in Morelia
they do give you the most condiments to enjoy with your carnitas
Carnitas Don Raul serves amazing refried beans
Carnitas Don Raul is located about 2.2 km (1.4 miles) east of the zocalo
It’s a bit of a trek but worth every step if you’re serious about finding the best carnitas in Morelia
We enjoyed every carnitas restaurant we went to in Morelia but Carnitas El Michoacano was our hands down favorite
the most of any carnitas restaurant we went to in Morelia
The meatier chunks of pork are good on their own but they’re even better when paired with gelatinous strips of pork skin
It’s a marriage made in carnitas heaven
A half kilo of carnitas was usually more than enough for the two of us but we could have eaten more at Carnitas El Michoacano
I must have eaten three of these carnitas tacos within the first five minutes
Carnitas El Michoacano is located in Vasco de Quiroga
a more residential part of Morelia about 2.5 km (1.6 miles) east of the zocalo
Don’t be intimidated by the distance
You’ll be rewarded with some of the very best carnitas anywhere in Morelia
It wasn’t hard learning about which dishes to try in Michoacán
What was challenging was finding restaurants in the Historic Center that served them
We don’t usually have trouble doing that but in Morelia
we had to go door-to-door and check every restaurant’s menu
I think part of the reason for that is traditional Michoacán cuisine consists largely of rustic soulful dishes, the kind of food that’s more often made at home than served at restaurants. Sort of like chicken pot pie or Filipino adobo
So when we found a restaurant that served Michoacán regional cuisine
we ordered as much as we could off their menu
The first two restaurants in this section – Restaurante Caracuaro and La Guarecita de San Agustin – are perfect examples of that
If you had time for just one restaurant in Morelia to try as many Michoacán dishes as you can
then Restaurante Caracuaro is a great place to go
It’s perhaps the best restaurant on this list to try Michoacán specialties like sopa tarasca
What you’re looking at below is a bowl of sopa tarasca
a tasty Purépecha pinto bean soup made with tomatoes
I’m not much of a soup person but I really enjoyed this one
The Purépecha are an indigenous people that’s inhabited the northwestern parts of Michoacán for over a thousand years
Many dishes in Michoacán cuisine are Purépecha dishes
Like the Yucatan
Michoacán is home to many different preparations of tamales
Uchepos are made with fresh instead of dried corn and are often sweet
Pictured below is a spicy plate of aporreadillo
It’s a filling dish of meat jerky and egg cooked in a sauce made with different types of chili pepper
Typically served with a side of rice and refried beans
it’s a popular dish that’s commonly consumed in Michoacán and Guerrero
Like tacos, enchiladas are available everywhere in Mexico. Some cities like Guanajuato (enchiladas mineras) and Queretaro (enchiladas queretanas) have their own regional versions
Known as pollo placero (or enchiladas morelianas
the Michoacán version of enchiladas is served with stewed carrots
and oregano-seasoned chicken that’s been fried in lard
morisqueta was one of my favorite dishes in Michoacán cuisine
morisqueta refers to just white rice and pinto beans topped with queso fresco and sour cream
but it’s usually served with some type of soup or stew
What you’re looking at below is a version of morisqueta from Apatzingán
a city in the west-central region of Michoacán
It’s a hearty dish that’s traditionally served with pork ribs braised in tomato sauce
As described, Restaurante Caracuaro is one of the best restaurants in Morelia to visit for traditional Michoacán food
They serve excellent food and offer great service
Restaurante Caracuaro is located about a 10-15 minute walk east of the zocalo
Restaurante Caracuaro is a large restaurant with a main dining hall and one or two smaller dining areas
The main dining room is quite dark and gloomy but you can ask to be seated in one of these brighter side rooms
dailyWhat to Order: Traditional Michoacan dishes
La Guarecite de San Agustin is one of the best restaurants in Morelia to have traditional Michoacán food
Located in the heart of the Historic District
they have an extensive menu featuring many local dishes like aporreadillo
I thought I’d have to wait until Pátzcuaro to try charales but we were happy to find it here at La Guarecita
Charales is a Pátzcuaro specialty of lightly battered and fried Chirostoma fish
Charales looks to be a seasonal item at La Guarecita
It isn’t a permanent dish on their menu so I highly recommend ordering it if you see it on their specials board
we didn’t know about this dish until we saw it on La Guarecita’s menu
it’s a tasty dish made with chicken and rice in a thick
This Michoacán dish is the main reason why we decided to eat at La Guarecita
We couldn’t find churipo anywhere so were ecstatic to find it here
Churipo is a hearty Purépecha stew made with beef
then you’re definitely going to want to bite into this syrupy sweet Michoacán dessert called chongos zamoranos
It’s a cloyingly sweet curdled milk dessert made with milk
There are many great restaurants in Morelia but only a few offer a wide selection of Michoacán specialties on their menu. La Guarecita de San Agustin is one of them
If you want good food that isn’t too far from the zocalo
then La Guarecita is a great option to consider
La Guarecita de San Agustin is a traditional restaurant along the popular Hidalgo walking street
just a stone’s throw away from the zocalo
Oaxaca and Michoacán are two states with a reputation for having the best food in Mexico
So when you find a restaurant that specializes in both cuisines
Cuish is a terrific restaurant in the heart of Morelia’s Historic Center. They have an interesting menu featuring specialties from both Michoacán and Oaxaca
Each dish is labeled with an “M” or “O” on their menu so you know where it’s from
What you’re looking at below is atapakua
a flavorful Purépecha stew made with pork cooked with local ingredients like ancho chilis
This artfully plated dish of enchiladas morelianas was meant to be served with chicken
but they were out of it that day so they gave us tasajo (dried beef) instead
then you may recognize it as the type of meat they often serve with tlayudas
our gregarious server was quick to point out that tasajo in Michoacán is known simply as bistec
If you’d like to wash all that delicious Michoacán food down with a local spirit
then you may want to get a glass of charanda
It’s a PDO spirit distilled from sugarcane
Cuish is one of the most interesting restaurants on this list
They serve great food and offer excellent service right in the heart of the Historical District
They serve other Michoacán specialties as well like charales
but it’s a charming restaurant as well
The interior and decorations reminded us very much of Oaxaca
We enjoyed great service at almost every restaurant in Morelia but our lunch at Cuish was the most memorable
we didn’t catch our server’s name but aside from the good food
he was a big reason why we enjoyed this restaurant so much
Sun (closed Mondays)What to Order: Traditional Michoacan and Oaxacan dishes
Jardin de las Rosas (Garden of the Roses) is a small but lovely plaza just a short walk from the zocalo
It’s a pleasant place to visit on any day of the week but especially on Sundays when vendors set up around the park to sell a variety of wares like crafts
You’ll find around five or six restaurants around the plaza with al fresco seating
This is a fun place to have lunch on a Sunday when the park really comes alive
I don’t think this is originally from Michoacán but pictured below is a bowl of caldo tlalpeño
a type of Mexican soup made with chicken and vegetables seasoned with garlic
If chicken and vegetable soup is a little too boring for you
then perhaps you’d like to go for a bowl of caldo de rana instead
It’s a Mexican soup made with frog’s legs cooked with guajillo chilis
La Casona de las Rosas is a good place to have breakfast as well
They offer a variety of breakfast platters
including this Michoacano breakfast featuring corundas and pork ribs drenched in red salsa
La Casona de las Rosas is an atmospheric restaurant that offers great food and excellent service
It’s a fun place to just hang out and go people-watching too
La Casona de las Rosas has a large indoor seating area as well
There’s a stage inside so it looks like they play live music here at night
If you’re traveling on a budget and want great food at a good price in Mexico
then one of the best things for you to do is to visit a market fonda (family-owned eatery) or street food stall
Not only will you be getting good food for cheap
but you’ll be rubbing elbows with locals as well
It’s one of the most authentic food experiences you can have in Mexico
I explored two large markets in Morelia – Mercado Independencia and Mercado Revolucion
Mercado Independencia is the larger and more interesting of the two but Mercado Revolucion is located in a more pleasant neighborhood so I’m recommending that one instead
Mega quesadillas seem to be a thing in Morelia
It’s exactly as its name suggests – a large quesadilla measuring around 18 inches (46 cm) long
it’s filled with the usual ingredients like chorizo
You’ll find food stalls selling mega quesadillas at different spots throughout Morelia
Just outside the market is a row of about four or five food stalls selling typical Mexican dishes like pozole
always go to the busiest food stall and that stall today was Mega Quesadilla Doña Agus
Cheese makes everything better so it doesn’t really matter where you go
Pictured below is my deliciously cheap and filling mega quesadilla with chorizo
This row of street food stalls is located on the south end of Mercado Revolucion
It’s a great place to eat a filling meal for cheap in Morelia
Another good place to eat cheap food in downtown Morelia is Plaza de San Agustin
Surrounding the plaza in front of Rectoría de San Agustín is this U-shaped cluster of stands selling traditional Mexican food
Most of the places here offer the same things so it doesn’t really matter where you go
one of the busiest stalls was Antojitos Mexicanos “Carmelita”
I had this plate of three quesadillas with mixed fillings for just MXN 50 (July 2022)
This is the stall I went to but like I said
most of the places here offer the same dishes so it doesn’t really matter where you go
Address: Centro histórico de Morelia
MichoacánOperating Hours: 9AM-12MN
Mercado Municipal Vasco de Quiroga is the third traditional market I visited in Morelia
It isn’t nearly as big nor as lively as the other two but we went here specifically to visit one stall – Uchepos y Corundas Rossy
Uchepos y Corundas Rossy specializes in corundas and uchepos
I wanted to get uchepos de dulce con mantequilla (sweet uchepos with butter) but they were out of it by the time we got there so I got this corunda rellena de calabacita con queso instead
It’s a type of corunda filled with squash and cheese
Mercado Municipal Vasco de Quiroga is located across the street from Carnitas El Michoacano
If you’re still hungry after your carnitas meal
then you may want to pick up a few uchepos and corundas from this stall
Sun (closed Mondays)What to Order: Corundas
You can find corundas at many restaurants in Morelia but I prefer trying them (or any other dish) at specialty restaurants like Uchepos y Corundas Rossy or this one – Corundas Sto
Located near Carnitas Don Pepe and Carnitas Jorge
they specialize in a handful of pre-Hispanic dishes like corundas
Niño offers two types of corundas – corundas de manteca and corundas de ceniza
The owner tried explaining to us the difference between the two but our limited Spanish made it difficult to understand
Corundas de manteca translates to “butter corundas” while corundas de ceniza means “ash corundas”. According to this recipe, corundas de ceniza is cooked with lime and ash
the triangular tamales in the picture below are the corundas de manteca while the flatter ones beneath them are the corundas de ceniza
corundas are typically enjoyed with Mexican sour cream and a thin
It’s hard to find room after a filling carnitas meal but you may want to give these corundas a try before rolling back to your hotel
Walk around downtown Morelia and you’ll find many locals digging into these plastic cups filled with chopped fruit
This fruity snack is called gaspachos and it’s one of the most emblematic dessert snacks you’ll find in Morelia
Not to be confused with the Spanish dish of cold vegetable soup
gaspachos morelianos consist of finely chopped mango
There are many gaspachos stalls throughout Morelia but Gaspachos el Guero de la Merced is known for being one of the best
you can’t leave Morelia without trying this dish
Gaspachos el Guero de la Merced is conveniently located about a 5-7 minute walk west of the zocalo
nieve de pasta is a Michoacán dish originally from the magical town (pueblo magico) of Pátzcuaro
Meaning “paste ice cream” in English
it’s an ultra-thick and pasty type of ice cream that tastes similar to condensed milk or dulce de leche
You can get nieve de pasta in its “natural” flavor but you can also get it enhanced with other ingredients like mango
The Nieve de Pasta ice cream shop in Morelia makes decent nieve de pasta but it’s still a far cry from the original at Neveria La Pacanda in Pátzcuaro
Nieve de Pasta is located along Av Francisco I
You’ll see it on the right side of the street on your way to Callejon del Romance or the Aqueduct from the zocalo
then you’ve undoubtedly seen one of these La Michoacana ice cream shops
it’s a chain that originated in Michoacán
La Michoacana ice cream is the same no matter where you go but it’s cool to try it in the state where it originated from
there are several La Michoacana branches in Morelia
We went to the one near Plaza Villalongin and Fuente de las Tarascas
The zocalo is one of the best places to go people-watching in any Mexican city
There are always plenty of restaurants to go people-watching from around the zocalo but we prefer doing it from cafes or dessert shops
Churreria Porfirio is an excellent spot to watch life go by over churros and hot chocolate
Their churros are good but their buñuelos may be better. A buñuelo is a type of donut or fried dough fritter that’s popular in Spain and in many parts of Latin America
You’ll often find simple versions of buñuelos sold from street food carts in Mexico but at Churreria Porfirio, it looks like a large version of a rosette cookie
It’s crunchy and crumbly and perfect with coffee or hot chocolate
Churreria Porfirio is a popular Mexican churros chain with branches throughout the country
There’s nothing like a good cup of coffee to while away the time in Mexico
If you’ve been to Puebla and have a sweet tooth, then you’re probably familiar with poblano dulces tipicos or traditional sweets
People who enjoy the sweeter things in life will be pleased to learn that Michoacán makes its own traditional sweets as well
Known as dulces tipicos de Michoacán, the state is famous for traditional confections like ate, cocada, moreliana, and mazapan. And like Puebla
they’re famous for their own version of rompope as well
one of the best places to buy dulces tipicos is Calle Real
it’s a beautiful chain of sweet shops that’ll make you feel like you’re in the 19th century
shop employees wear period costumes to complete the illusion
you’ll be like a kid in a candy shop
The dulces tipicos from Puebla are good but the sweets in Michoacán may be even better
If you’re looking for the perfect food souvenir to bring home from Morelia
but they’re beautifully packaged as well
Here’s our haul of sweets from Calle Real
My favorite is definitely the ate which is a type of Mexican fruit jelly
They were so good I couldn’t stop eating them
There’s more than one Calle Real branch in Morelia but the most conveniently located is the one along Av Francisco I. Madero Ote
dailyWhat to Buy: Dulces tipicos de Michoacan
To help you navigate to these restaurants and street food stalls in Morelia, I’ve pinned them all on the map below. Click on the link for a live version of the map
We almost always stick to local food when we travel but we couldn’t help but notice the large number of Italian and sushi restaurants in Morelia
We didn’t go but Pizzas del 108 is often mentioned as having some of the best pizzas in the Historical District
It may be a good place to go if you have a hankering for Italian food
then just know that Mexican restaurants typically put Philadelphia cream cheese in every roll
then I hope you enjoy the food in Morelia as much as we did
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