the tastuan ritual combines past and present
decked in a fine sombrero and red velvet cape
leads tastuanes back to the village after church in Juchipila
Tastuanes' veneration of Santo Santiago has its roots in 9th-century Spain
when the apostle's mythical support of Christian Spaniards' war to expel the Muslim Moors was memorialized in dance
“Beneath the religious story, there’s this origin story, and it’s very painful,” says Ramiro Durán Rentería
a photojournalist who captured these images of tastuanes in a pueblo only forty minutes from his hometown in Zacatecas
became a tool to assimilate the defeated indigenous people: Incorporating aspects of the Caxcanes’ culture into the Catholic festival drove home the message that indigeneity was the “evil” defeated by the “holy” Spaniards
the three-day principal ceremony plays out a mix of theatrical dances
“When the icon of Santo Santiago first comes out from the church
and all of us dancers are there waiting—you feel a different energy,” says dancer and tastuan expert Ismael García Ávila
to let out animal noises from behind the mask.”
The official Catholic feast day, July 25, sees tastuanes reenact the battle that ended the Mixtón War
in which a Spanish army and their Aztecan allies defeated the Caxcanes
Mounted on a jingling horse in his red cape and sombrero
Santiago wields his sword and wooden cross to represent the Spaniards’ victory—first martial
then religious—over the penitent tastuanes
whose resistance ends by “paying” the saint with a promise of Christian piety
where tastuanes try to steal Santiago's cross as the saint fends them off with a sword
The mock violence recalls the very real violence of conquest: “We’ve never accepted what [the Spanish] told us
“They said they were the saviors—not at all.”
The profane festival of July 26 takes a different tone
two tastuanes dress as chinanas—male dancers
who wear women’s clothing—and cavort through the streets
kissing each crowd member and fighting each other
But the other tastuanes—the chinanas’ symbolic children—chase and beat the “elders,” stripping them of their feminine clothing to recall the humiliation suffered by the vanquished Caxcanes
It’s just one complicated aspect of a ceremony whose layers of meaning remain unknown even to the dancers, says Durán. [Meet the men who literally dance with scissors.]
The ritual itself has a difficult and dangerous duality
though women don’t take part: Their role is limited to costume-making
as the rigor of being ritually stripped of their clothing (an act so violent that chinanas often sustain real injuries) is considered inappropriate for their gender
And though the figure of the tastuan is intrinsically indigenous
they’re sometimes interpreted by dancers of mixed descent
criollos who don native identities while in wider society
native culture is disdained and native languages die out
“Santo Santiago isn’t a figure free from contradiction,” says Durán
“[The allegory of the tastuanes] continues to be a hypocritical discourse
But it’s still a hugely moving manifestation for me
For all its thorny implications and hidden meanings
the tastuan dance remains a powerful symbol of the region’s culture
Tastuanes return from Juchipila's parish church
Though the ritual changes from town to town
For Durán, the experience was unforgettable.
“I forgot time,” he says. “It didn’t matter. There was a sensation of love for what you do, because in doing it you feel all your emotions, all your senses; you feel included in something. Although you’re walking and sweating, you feel serene.”
Indigenous elements are present in the ritual's narrative—where Spanish conquistadors defeat the resisting Caxcanes—as well as the pre-Columbian rhythms and movements of the dance itself
Dancer Ignacio Reynoso Jiménez puts on his tastuan attire
Tastuanes help each other fasten their masks
Both masks and costumes vary from town to town; here
Tastuanes escort the idol of Santo Santiago from the church of Moyahua
Carbon dating revealed that the icon's white horse is over 500 years old
brought from Spain's own medieval Santiago venerations; the figure of the saint himself was added later in Michoacán
One of the ritual's more complicated aspects is the representation of the indigenous tastuanes as \"evil,\" \"bad,\" or \"animalistic,\" a legacy of Spaniards' use of the dance as an assimilation tactic
Young performers gather at La Estrellita Marinera
Tastuanes who succeed in stealing Santiago's cross in the corredero can exchange it for a bottle of tequila—for which Santiago will later have to pay
Left: Preparations for the July celebration last throughout the year
While captains direct the tastuanes' rehearsals
Right: A dancer helps another don his mask
tastuan dancers are men: The intensely physical
sometimes violent ritual is considered inappropriate for women
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After 15 years of exploration and restoration work
the Zacatecas archaeological site Las Ventanas will finally open on August 2
the site was occupied by the Caxcán people from about 100 AD until the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century
Archaeologists from the National Institute of Archaeology and History (INAH) uncovered nine structures during their long exploration of Las Ventanas
The name comes from the window-like openings in the stone structures
Archaeologists also identified 25 hillocks of varying sizes and shapes
which provide evidence that the site was used for religious ceremonies
Las Ventanas was scheduled to open towards the end of the previous government’s term but only now is ready to receive visitors
Juchipila Mayor Rafael Jiménez told the newspaper Milenio that the inauguration of the site will be the culmination of a years-long dream
Restoring the site and preparing it for opening “has been a very big effort,” Jiménez said
adding that around 150 people per day are expected to visit
The increase in tourism to the municipality
located around 130 kilometers northeast of Guadalajara in the south of Zacatecas
will provide a boost for the local economy
“It’s good luck for us that despite budget cuts we’ve managed to open it
The three levels of government will collaborate for the operation [of the site] and security of the area,” Jiménez said
an INAH archeologist who led the restoration project between 2012 and 2014
said the region where Las Ventanas is located was conquered later than other parts of the country
there was an indigenous uprising that developed into the famous Mixtón war between 1541 and 1542
which is an elevated point with pre-Hispanic structures
they [the Caxcán people] entrenched themselves to resist
Santos added that excavations at the site uncovered the graves of children
“That means that they preferred to sacrifice their children rather than have them fall into the hands of the Spanish,” he said
The INAH archaeologist agreed with the Juchipila mayor that the opening of Las Ventanas will boost tourism
“It’s a region that needs it because for a long time it’s been under the control of drug cartels
The archaeological zone will definitely create a lot of jobs and the peace we all want will resume,” Santos said
Las Ventanas will be the newest addition to an archaeological tourism route in Zacatecas
Other pre-Hispanic sites in the northern state include the recently-opened Cerro del Teúl
Source: Milenio (sp)
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is set to unveil the largest statue of Jesus Christ in Latin America
the monument will be officially inaugurated on the Cerrito de la Fe on Sunday
the colossal figure — named Christ of Peace — will be even larger than the iconic Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) in Rio de Janeiro
beating out Brazil’s landmark by a single meter
Other giant statues of Christ in Mexico include a 28-meter statue in Aguascalientes
a 23-meter statue in Tijuana and a 22-meter statue in Torreón
While the statue of Christ the Protector in the town of Encantado
claims the title of tallest Jesus statue in the Americas
it is standing on top of a significant pedestal
The new statue in Zacatecas achieves its full 31 meters without any help at all
of the Juchipila Canyon region and of the entire state of Zacatecas,” Tabasco’s mayor Gil Martínez said as he officially led the lighting of the new scenic illuminations at the foot of the statue
there will also be a concert by the Zacatecas Symphony Orchestra
While the unveiling of the Christ of Peace is making headlines
this isn’t Zacatecas’ first enormous religious effigy: in 2019
a 6-meter statue of the baby Jesus was installed in the nearby town of Zóquite
With reports from Milenio