Muralism is among the most important visual arts movements in Mexico. Plenty of private and public walls, both in the open and in government institutions, are covered in paint. Ranging from social realism to the abstract, many modern trends have started to look to the past for inspiration. One such case is the murals of La Crucecita Church in the Bays of Huatulco. Murals have been painted in Mexico since before the Spanish conquest. The arrival of European Catholicism led to a new movement of murals intended to evangelize the indigenous population. When artist José Ángel del Signo was asked in 2000 to paint a mural for the inside of this church, which had been recently consecrated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, he gleaned inspiration from those early religious murals. Del Signo decided to paint the largest image of the Virgin of Guadalupe on the ceiling of the church's central nave. This painting measures 65 feet (20 meters) in length, has an area of 881 square feet (285 square meters), and depicts a non-traditional image of the Virgin. Her body is depicted as being almost ethereal, painted in white with floating elements around. Representing her role as mother of Christ, a blue fetus appears in the area of her womb. These are not the only signs of these murals' imagery being more esoteric and psychedelic than that of early religious art in Mexico. The vaulted ceilings next to the central nave depict white constellations on an electric blue background, while other walls and ceilings have influences as diverse as Eastern European Orthodox icons and tie-dye-like patterns. Truly, the psychedelia on display here matches the heat of this tropical church, with the whirring of electric fans on every column. This church has a strict policy regarding cellphones, requesting they be turned off or put in silent mode while visiting. The walls and ceilings of the "Mexican Sistine Chapel" are almost completely covered with mural, sculpture, inscriptions and oil paintings. These nearly 500-year-old scenes are largely faded by the ravages of time, yet still maintain their power to horrify. The largest of Denmark's seven mysterious round churches stands on an island in the Baltic Sea. This 16th-century missionary site features Catholic murals, stone carvings, and fortress-like architecture. Remarkable medieval wall paintings decorate this 12th-century, dog-friendly church. A medieval church that contains murals from famed artist Albertus Pictor. This small church is surrounded by a landscape filled with hidden Zapotec ruins. Inside this medieval church resides a unique set of murals. Its nine bays are spread across 22mi (35km) and some sections of coast can be people-free for days at a time where you’ll find everything from cocktail bars to live music pubs © Magdalena Bujak / Alamy Stock Photo Cocktails come in kaleidoscopic colors at this smart bar in La Crucecita Try the pool-blue High Tide or the blood-red mezcalinis – the Mexican take on the martini The best tables are on the open-fronted terrace at the entrance to the bar where wooden benches and bucket seats overlook the greenery of the main square park Order a plate of tacos filled with tasajo – a cured beef that’s local to Oaxaca Two words sum up this bar near La Crucecita’s main square – micheladas and mezcal The micheladas are Mexico’s spin on the bloody mary tomato juice and a beer that’s upended and sunk into the cocktail while still in the bottle Every shot comes with a plate of chili-dusted lemon and the obligatory shaker of salt © Elena Veselova / Alamy Stock Photo This palapa-style bar The bar menu is classic – cold beers and margaritas are the orders most regularly ringing through the till Head here on a Friday or Saturday and you’ll be able to sup to the sound of live music – usually an acoustic soloist serves more kinds of margarita than there are days of the week On balmy days you can sip your drinks from the open-air courtyard at the back Located close to the main square in La Crucecita this playful bar is decorated with murals and colorful furniture – some of which is pinned to the walls rather than the floor is given by fairy lights strung up inside tequila bottles Sign up to our newsletter to save up to $800 on our unique trips See privacy policy This place wins the title of Huatulco’s quirkiest bar and everything about it is Medieval-themed Wrought-iron chandeliers hang from the ceiling the place specializes in German beers and mezcals © Rimma Bondarenko / Alamy Stock Photo Hand-painted murals and frames full of Mexican-inspired artwork fill the walls of this bar just around the corner from the main square in La Crucecita pull up one of the stiletto-shaped seats and order a tequila cocktail – try the Mariachi Melon soak up your drinks with a pizza from the bar’s clay oven © David Parker / Alamy Stock Photo For drinks that go on into the early hours head to La Papaya near Chahué Marina and Beach Find a spot in one of the red leather booths and start the night with a tamarind vodka then graduate onto the dancefloor; DJs play until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays where there are two circular tanks built into the wall – you’ll sometimes see mermaids swimming about in the water Guides & Tips A Guide To The Palacio De Bellas Artes See & Do The Most Magical Sites to Visit in Mexico See & Do The Most Beautiful Plazas in Mexico City See & Do How to Spend Christmas and New Years in Mexico City See & Do Must-Visit Attractions in the Copper Canyon See & Do A View of Mexico City Through the Xochimilco Canals See & Do Mexico's Most Stunning Lakeside Towns and Villages See & Do Unique Indigenous Towns in Mexico See & Do The Top 10 Things to See and Do in Tlaxcala Guides & Tips 14 Things You Should Never Say to a Mexican See & Do The 10 Best Things to See and Do in Pachuca See & Do 16 Must Visit Attractions in Guadelejara US: +1 (678) 967 4965 | UK: +44 (0)1630 35000 tripssupport@theculturetrip.com © Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd but we could hear the thunder of the rapids ahead “Everybody dowwwn!” our guide bellowed in his thick accent a command to pull our paddles from the water and crouch onto the floor of our rubber raft No way we would stay upright on these rapids thankful for the helmet strapped to my head When I could finally see the swirling current tumbling and slamming into boulders just ahead sending us twirling between the tall pines and lush mountain jungle I had always been tempted to try the popular seaside destinations that Minnesotans escape to each winter Every time Facebook friends posted a palm-tree-laden photo on a subzero day in Minneapolis But I remembered how I get bored lying on a beach for more than a few hours I imagined feeling trapped at a noisy all-inclusive resort That’s probably because Huatulco (pronounced wah-TOOL-ko) is a somewhat new less-developed tourist spot along Mexico’s southern Pacific Coast but the government’s tourism arm is working to draw international travelers Huatulco is made up of nine bays tucked between dramatic cliffs that drop into the sea the foothills of the Sierra Madre loom in the background Before the government began promoting it for tourism in the 1980s the area was populated only with fishing villages Now it is marketing Huatulco as an eco-friendly destination and has vowed to preserve much of the rugged coastline Minnesota-based Sun Country Vacations started offering nonstop flights and packages there a couple of winters ago I was happy to board a plane with its nose pointed south Checking in at the open-air front desk of the Las Brisas resort a 4½-hour flight later my husband and I quickly learned why Huatulco is a good-weather bet: Every sun-filled day hovered in the 90s during our stay The coast sees only about 40 days of rain a year “We call it rainy season because we have to call it something,” one guide joked I cringed as a front-desk clerk strapped a bright blue It would be my ticket to endless drinks and food but it also felt like I was being tagged in a herd of livestock That worry receded after we headed out of our sleek room to see what the resort had to offer including a sports beach where we could use kayaks stand-up paddle boards and catamarans as much as we wanted we could use resort snorkeling equipment to explore a reef just a few yards from shore A rocky and secluded “secret beach” was tucked around a corner None of the beach views were obscured by high rises or billboards or neon lights Huatulco was far less crowded and commercialized than I had expected And there were plenty of opportunities to get away from the resort tour operators set up tables hawking day trips: White-water rafting ATV riding and bird-watching along with tours of coffee plantations In the seven days before our Sun Country flight would hurl us back to snow Huatulco’s nine dramatic ocean bays — its biggest draw — do not disappoint Iguanas sunned themselves on seaside rocks as we launched a double kayak into ocean swells in Tangolunda Bay among the most developed with resorts and some private homes we felt immersed in nature: The shell of a large sea turtle bobbed in the distance A pelican divebombed a fish in front of us We circled small rock islands with waves crashing against them I tried riding the bay on a stand-up paddleboard learning to pull the sails as we zigzagged across the surface Walking over to the snorkeling beach on the resort’s curving sidewalk Maybe an all-inclusive resort wasn’t so bad As much as the blue waters and beige sand beckoned I couldn’t help but look at the mountain foothills behind us Our guided rafting trip took us a couple of hours up the mountains to the Copalita River we gazed at dense wilderness between bouts of jitters The rafting trip only whetted my appetite for more mountain fun The brochure in our room touted hiking trips the tour operators looked at me quizzically as though I were the first to ever inquire about the offering “Alejandro on the beach,” one operator suggested and wound up contacting a Florida transplant who created the website huatulcoadventure.com met us at the Las Brisas lobby before dawn to take us on a mountain hike he couldn’t help but brag about the corner of paradise he called home: white-water rivers ‘Why didn’t you tell us it was like this?’ ” Hurchalla recalled them marveling You just can’t understand it until you see it.” bumpy dirt road and stopped at a narrow walking path The air was a crisp contrast to the heat of the coast “That’s the coolest breeze I’ve felt in a long time,” he said The temperature almost begged for long sleeves we stopped to soak in the unusual mixture of nature: tall pine trees A slight wind whispered as magpie-jays swooped A second short hike yielded a different surprise: Rounding one corner we met a local man carrying a large machete He looked serious and spoke in hurried Spanish to our guide We were relieved to hear their brief conversation end with “Buenos dias!” The man wanted to make sure we wouldn’t get lost “It’s just an extension of people in rural areas here,” Hurchalla shrugged I headed into the main town of La Crucecita a couple of miles away I passed markets filled with brightly painted figurines and textiles and dodged workers sweeping sidewalks I encountered a few name-brand resorts (Secrets Some three-quarters of the land in Huatulco is kept natural and tourist magazines there boast of plans for new roads and lodging my husband and I rented a 150cc Kymco that afternoon and buzzed around the local roads we explored at our own pace the picturesque mouth of the Copalita River and small neighborhoods to the east of our resort We stopped at the Copalita Archaeological Park where workers were slowly peeling back jungle vines to uncover ancient ruins shaded paths guided us through tropical plants that stood alongside prickly cactus Bright blue and red butterflies and tropical birds flittered about we gathered with a few locals near a lighthouse on land that jutted south into the Pacific We returned the next morning before sunrise on our last morning in Huatulco As the sun peeked from the Pacific’s horizon a school of dolphins jumped in the surf far below but Huatulco had so much to offer that I might just need a second visit someday I’ll consider that as I huddle under a blanket in January looking at friends’ beach photos on Facebook It turned out to be a disappointing tourist trap with minimal snorkeling and a couple of hours spent stuck on a beach lined with hut-style restaurants Vendors approached constantly trying to sell everything from marble dolphin figurines to desserts Getting there: Sun Country flies nonstop to and from Huatulco seasonally on Saturdays only; other airlines that serve Huatulco include United and Delta Prices for package deals vary depending upon the week you travel and the hotel you choose Our two-person Sun Country Vacations package cost $2,522 including airfare and all-inclusive resort for a week but an area made up of nine Pacific Ocean bays spanning nearly 22 miles of coastline between the Coyula and Copalita rivers The small towns of La Crucecita and Santa Cruz dot the coast with just a few stoplights to direct traffic Places to stay: Las Brisas is an expansive resort built into the hills with four beaches and 484 rooms spread among several buildings Small shuttles zoom on narrow roadways to carry guests who prefer rides instead of steep walks to their rooms It is one of the older resorts in Huatulco but rooms have been updated to look modern and there is little competition for beach-side lounge chairs Tourist traps: To explore the bays accessible only by boat pars and bogeys on the Tangolunda golf course in coastal Oaxaca A 110-hectare property in Huatulco that includes that golf course has been declared a national park by presidential decree Published in the government’s official gazette on Monday night the decree officially creates the Tangolunda National Park The publication of the decree came five days after President Andrés Manuel López Obrador told reporters that a concession issued to Grupo Salinas to operate the golf course had expired He rejected a claim from company owner Ricardo Salinas that the concession had been extended until 2027 the contract has already expired,” López Obrador said at his morning news conference He also said that the property “is in the middle of two natural protected reserves” and includes a “public beach.” The new national park is located about six kilometers east of La Crucecita the main town in the Bahías de Huatulco resort area via the National Commission for Natural Protected Areas (Conanp) preserve and restore the ecosystems … of the Tangolunda National Park” as well as ensure that the activities carried out within the park don’t violate environmental laws The only activities permitted within the park are the preservation and conservation of ecosystems; scientific research; environmental monitoring; environmental education; low-impact environmental tourism; reintroduction of native species; eradication or control of exotic and invasive species; and the construction and maintenance of public infrastructure as are a range of other activities including fishing A concession to operate a golf course on the property was first issued to Grupo Salinas by the National Tourism Promotion Fund (Fonatur) in 2012 Grupo Salinas — a conglomerate that includes TV Azteca the retailer Elektra and other companies owned by Ricardo Salinas — has been accused of stealing large quantities of municipal water for use on the golf course López Obrador said that the leasing of the property to Grupo Salinas generated no benefits for Fonatur, the original developer of Huatulco as a “planned tourism project.” “It was a bad public business,” said the president, who has established more than 40 new natural protected areas said on the X social media platform that he didn’t care what the government wanted to call the property disaster area [or] UFO landing platform.” He also said that the government should hold a public vote in Huatulco “to see if the people agree with being left without the [golf] course.” ADVERTISE WITH MND COMMUNITY GUIDELINES Subscription FAQ's Privacy Policy Mexico News Daily - Property of Tavana LLC Latest UpdatesCountries Why Join?IL Magazine Free Daily E-Letter Video Our Experts Testimonials FAQsTopics There are many so-called real estate "experts" out there but few have the track record of best selling author Ronan McMahon That's saying a lot considering where my winter base is.. My point is Pacific views would need to be seriously impressive to wow me Not pocket money...but closer to zero than to California prices a little beach community on Mexico's southern Pacific coast after the reports I've been getting back from my scout who's on the ground there as we speak As you'll see below in Jason's dispatch, Huatulco's stunningly beautiful coastline is just one element that makes this low-key community an ideal vacation getaway, expat favorite snowbird haven...and potential venue for owning real estate For centuries the Mixtec people of Oaxaca have come each year from October to March to the rocky on the far southern Pacific coast of Mexico a type of sea snail which provides a vivid purple dye they use in traditional garments that are said to have spiritual and magical qualities They extract the dye and then release the still-alive snail back to the sea After a period of overharvesting in the 1980s by commercial interests the Mexican government decreed the Mixtecs were the only ones allowed to do so and a limited amount at that And this unique cultural tradition has been preserved to this day It's quite a standout in a community where everything feels new Huatulco has been master-planned for tourism starting in the 1980s by FONATUR FONATUR decided Huatulco would make a great place to bring visitors and much-needed tourism dollars where what was essentially a large coconut plantation on a sandy barrier island was turned into the Hotel Zone with endless rows of all-inclusive resorts Huatulco was planned to be more low-key and sustainable as well as low-density development that melds with the surrounding coastal landscape No buildings over four stories are allowed and each new development must leave aside significant green space And wastewater is treated and then used for irrigation You mostly have villas and condo communities dotting the hills with some clusters of hotels on the flat land near the beaches This style of development is not overwhelming and works well with the rocky coastline So perhaps those folks collecting snails in a sustainable way fit right in This stretch of Pacific coast is starkly beautiful with steep hills rising sharply from the water giving many residents perched in those villas and condos on the slopes panoramic views There are nine bays and 36 beaches in Huatulco a region which stretches from Huatulco National Park (undeveloped although you can visit remote beaches here) to the Copalita River about eight miles and 20 minutes' drive east Much of the development is clustered around these bays including three major population centers which are within a few minutes' drive of each other walking or riding your bike can be an easy option too La Crucecita is the main "town." It's where you have a well-landscaped main plaza in the center folks selling fresh-catch fish on ice...it's a typical Mexican town in many ways In Santa Cruz you'll find a few large hotels with seafood restaurants setting up rows of tables right on the sand where visitors go out on boats offering tours of the bays and snorkeling with dorado (mahi mahi) and marlin abundant in the waters offshore You can hire a large boat with cabin and such or a more simple open boat called a lancha or panga which hosted about 40 ships per year pre-pandemic including some of Huatulco's fine dining options which means it's been certified internationally for good ecological practices well-thought-out infrastructure lends itself to an easy which in my experience in Mexico and Latin America isn't all that common in beach towns I've seen workers out repairing roads and maintaining landscaping every day And this network extends up and down the coast branching off to existing developments or lying in wait for what's to come It's refreshing to be in a place where infrastructure was not an afterthought There are also well-kept public parks everywhere There's a well-regarded 18-hole golf course that local golfers tell me is quite good There are the boat tours and fishing tours hiking to waterfalls in the national park and white-water rafting It's a doable trip for a long weekend even could also bring more locals to Huatulco by road Most of the expats and visitors I've chatted with are from there And still most of the direct international flights are from destinations in Canada many Californians are coming down via the Cross Border Xpress which lets them walk across the border in southern California directly into the Tijuana airport which has direct flights to Huatulco daily There are vacationers coming for a week...two weeks escape chilly weather and stay for much if not all of winter which has compelled some to buy a second home to use when they're in town and rent out when they're not tell me they're seeing steady sales—of resales as well as strictly investors seeking vacation rental income or buying pre-con to sell for a gain after delivery And that has had an impact on real estate prices Two-bedroom luxury condos with ocean views and you can find condos for under $200,000 I’ll highlight more of Huatulco’s standout listings I checked out on this trip including a penthouse condo with killer views walking distance to one of the region’s best beaches and a top-rated restaurant But for now...enjoy the views from one condo I toured with the Bayside team in a recently delivered community called Sotavento All the condos have views like this of what is essentially a private little bay Travel to Mexico: Current Updates Lesser-Known Mexican Beaches on the Oaxaca Coast Escaping the Crowds in Magical Huatulco This article was published more than 14 years ago My husband and I have just returned from a week's vacation in Huatulco This lovely bay-scalloped stretch of the Pacific coastline lies far south of Acapulco roughly 3,500 kilometres from Juarez and the border towns where most of the drug-related violence occurs where five Canadians were killed in a gas explosion at a hotel lies more than 1,500 kilometres away on the opposite coast far too many Canadians will take a pass on Huatulco out of media-fuelled fear "It's our worst season since 9/11," said Alfredo Patino overlooking his empty palapa restaurant in Maguey Bay Have these Mexico-abstainers not looked at a map almost Canadian in its breadth and variety To steer clear of a place such as Huatulco - ecologically conscious and custom-tailored to the most squeamish tourist - because of narco violence or attacks on tourists in far-flung regions is like the irrational pall that fell on Canada during the SARS epidemic when visitors cancelled flights to Vancouver because of an outbreak in Toronto nor was my severed head used as a bowling ball to send a message to drug lords I was not murdered on a beach after agreeing to take a midnight ride on a Jet Ski The most violent incident of the week occurred while my husband was snorkelling with an underwater camera and a clearly irritated yellow-tailed fish bit him on the leg Huatulco is a series of nine sea-scoured bays We first arrived at Entrega clutching our bags afraid to both go swimming at the same time When we offered to pay our waitress to watch our things A $1.50 bottle of Corona secures you a table in a palapa where we left our things untended while we went snorkelling And if you accidentally swim with paper pesos in the pocket of your bathing trunks The only hitch in our week was the discovery that my husband had left an expensive pair of headphones and an iPod on the flight down to Mexico We didn't bother contacting our charter airline; surely the cleaning staff would view such forgotten valuables as a well-earned tip "Then I think you might be in luck." He ducked into an office and came back with both items We were not mugged or dumped in the trunk of a car The only remotely threatening thing we encountered in Huatulco was a tarantula which was lounging on the steps of our B&B one night The Huatulco area is clean and the water is filtered We ate our meals in restaurants twice a day and incurred nothing more severe than numb hands from lifting icy margaritas to our lips We did not feel patronized or resented by the locals we felt the money we were spending in Huatulco made us welcome Our relationship with the Mexicans who live there was simple: They are the artisans stewards and facilitators of something that we Canadians desperately lack - a place that's hospitable Marni Jackson is the author of Home Free: The Myth of the Empty Nest Report an editorial error Report a technical issue Editorial code of conduct Welcome to The Globe and Mail’s comment community. This is a space where subscribers can engage with each other and Globe staff. Non-subscribers can read and sort comments but will not be able to engage with them in any way. Click here to subscribe If you would like to write a letter to the editor, please forward it to letters@globeandmail.com. Readers can also interact with The Globe on Facebook and Twitter Welcome to The Globe and Mail’s comment community This is a space where subscribers can engage with each other and Globe staff We aim to create a safe and valuable space for discussion and debate If you do not see your comment posted immediately it is being reviewed by the moderation team and may appear shortly We aim to have all comments reviewed in a timely manner Comments that violate our community guidelines will not be posted UPDATED: Read our community guidelines here We have closed comments on this story for legal reasons or for abuse. For more information on our commenting policies and how our community-based moderation works, please read our Community Guidelines and our Terms and Conditions Notifications can be managed in browser preferences. Epicentre was near Pacific coast resort town of La Crucecita where hundreds of buildings have been damaged I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice At least six people have been killed and several others seriously injured after a powerful 7.4 magnitude earthquake struck Mexico’s Pacific coast on Tuesday morning The fatalities were near the quake’s epicentre in Oaxaca, a mountainous state in the south of the country, but it also caused damage to buildings hundreds of miles away in Mexico City. Worst hit was the beach resort town of La Crucecita, where around 200 houses in the area were damaged, including 30 that were badly impacted, a local official told Reuters. Houses were scarred by wide cracks across walls and residents fearful of re-entering properties, because of the risk of aftershocks, worked to clear debris from the streets. “We lost everything in one moment to nature,” Vicente Romero, an owner of a stationary store whose house suffered structural damage told Reuters. “This is our life's work.” Rockfalls blocked winding mountain roads between the state capital of Oaxaca city and the coast. Rescue workers reported three people seriously injured in the remote hill village of Santa Catarina Xanaguia, one state official said. Rescue workers battled for hours to reach the settlement, near the epicentre, where the quake brought down homes and parts of the mountainside, the official said. A clinic and old churches near the epicentre were severely damaged, images on social media showed. The dead included a worker from state oil company Pemex in Oaxaca, who fell from a height at the country's biggest oil refinery. The refinery was briefly closed after a fire. Miguel Candelaria, 30, was working at his computer in his family home in the Oaxaca town of Juchitan when the ground trembled. He ran outside with relatives, but they stopped in the middle of the street as the pavement buckled and rocked. “We couldn't walk... the street was like chewing gum,” said Mr Candelaria, 30. Quakes with magnitudes of over 7 are major earthquakes capable of widespread, heavy damage. Tuesday’s tremor was more powerful than a 7.1 magnitude quake in 2017 that caused widespread damage in the state of Puebla as well as across Mexico City. At least 370 people were killed and thousands were injured. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker Destinations in the Mexican Caribbean are well known as popular destinations but they didn’t make an Airbnb list of the top-10 most popular destinations in the country this summer The Quintana Roo cities of Cancún, Playa del Carmen and Tulum have long been major draws for domestic and international tourists. Tripadvisor recently named an Isla Mujeres beach as the best in the country and 19th best in the world the Mexican Pacific and the Gulf of California have proven more popular with Airbnb users looking for a summer getaway was at the top of the list followed by La Crucecita in Bahías de Huatulco Oaxaca; San Carlos and Bahía Kino in Sonora; Cabo San Lucas One unlikely tourist destination in central Mexico was León The only destination on the Yucatán Peninsula the region which encompasses the Mexican Caribbean Airbnb said “unique,” or unconventional properties within Mexico accounted for more than half of nights reserved in the first three months of the year an increase on similar reservations over the same period in 2019 An Airbnb list of international destinations most sought by U.S tourists includes Puerto Escondido; La Paz nine out of 10 users are considering traveling this summer The survey found that the same proportion of users are seeking adventure when they travel Last week, I finally made the journey from Oaxaca city to the Pacific coast on the new “super-highway,” which opened in February The has more than halved the drive from Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido which has dropped from seven hours to under three the route uses tunnels and bridges to cut through My family and I took the bus over the mountains from Oaxaca city to the town of San Pedro Pochutla which serves as a hub to reach the numerous bays near Puerto Escondido the Oaxacan beaches were as close to paradise as I could imagine Over the years since then I have explored many of Oaxaca’s most popular beaches, as well as some of the more hidden ones. I have driven, bussed and flown in a tiny Aerotucan plane. Nowadays regular flights to Puerto Escondido and Huatulco from Mexico City have increased the amount of visitors to each and driven the expansion of local infrastructure Huatulco has long been known as more of an Acapulco-style resort location developed by the National Fund for Tourism Promotion (Fonatur) many of which are still virtually untouched by tourism Last time I went I was based in La Crucecita Unlike the high rise hotels that you find in other parts of Huatulco It was busy when I was there on a Sunday in the December high season but it felt quite local with fishermen offering fresh clams and oysters up the main road and then down a steep path to reach vivid blue waters you will likely have the beach to yourself the walk on the footpath is a tough and very exposed one There are tours that take you through the eco reserve as this wild beach has small waves but often a strong undercurrent Some days it’s not possible to swim at Cacaluta at all This beach was used for scenes in Alfonso Cuarón’s “Y Tu Mamá También,” a story about chasing the dream of remote paradise The furthest point I walked to was Playa Maguey which was sweet and peaceful at the end of a challenging road hike getting around by boat is the easiest way to find the more remote bays One particular bay I have spent some wonderful days in is San Agustin known to have some of the best snorkelling in Mexico The first places I went with my family were Mazunte Yet they still preserve their unique personalities as do many of the bays that stretch along the coastline of Oaxaca The first place I ever stayed in Mazunte was an eco-lodge on the hill overlooking the bay Now it has become a favorite with travelers looking for wellness retreats and a place to meet other travelers Mazunte is the only one of Oaxaca’s beach towns designated as a Pueblo Mágico It is also home to the National Mexican Turtle Center at the community-managed Laguna Ventanilla There are technically three beaches in Mazunte: the main beach which then curves around to Rinconcito and Playa Mermejita where the beach dips quickly into deep water so you can float in the water without worrying so much about currents Being protected means you don’t get much of a sunset at Mazunte or Rinconcito but you can take a paddle board round to Punta Cometa to see a spectacular one at Oaxaca’s southernmost point Round the point of Cometa is Playa Mermejita where there is a growing scene of boutique hotels but its black volcanic sands and amazing sunsets give it a magical quality The village being a fifteen-minute walk from Mazunte means you can find the social aspect of Mazunte when you want but can go back and chill in San Agustinillo when you need a break I usually stay to the point furthest right of the bay where the fishermen hang out by their boats in the afternoon before surfing in the evening These fishermen also offer dawn trips in their boats to see the area’s abundant marine life I’ve had amazing experiences with Pacifico Mágico tours turtles and rays and swimming with dolphins Zicatela is one of Oaxaca’s best-known beaches. Located near the Puerto Escondido airport and bus terminal, it has a great food and nightlife scene. Nicknamed the Mexican Pipeline, Zicatela is a professional surf destination during the summer and fall but walking the beach’s shore is beautiful as waves rise up to reveal fish and rays like a window into the ocean If you are looking for beaches further from the beaten path in the vicinity of Puerto Escondido to the west are Playa Bacocho and the hidden Playa Coral About a 30-minute drive east is Agua Blanca it’s approximately two kilometers to the beach Following last week’s drive on the highway we settled in Agua Blanca staying at a newly-built boutique hotel called Casa Utopia del Mar perched at the far right of the small town It seemed like we had that bit of the beach to ourselves but with a private pool overlooking the beach we had the best of both worlds Agua Blanca has stunning rock formations just off the shore that create rock pools perfect for exploring It is also the best place I have been for oysters where you can get fresh food at most of the small restaurants nestled along the coast We shared some mezcal at one of these local spots called Cocodrilo where we spotted owner Luis García opening oysters with a hatchet García moved to Agua Blanca in 2016 when it had still felt very secluded “The reason I moved to Agua Blanca is because it is a very quiet place,” he told me “At night all I can hear is the ocean waves and the water moving making splashes.” In 2022 “This place is very famous because of the oysters The people also go fishing and free diving for their own seafood like octopus and lobster.” García said that he knows the place will change eventually but for now “no place is comparable to the beauty of Agua Blanca.” Undoubtedly we will see considerable change as the Oaxaca coast opens up to tourists beyond its most famous bays More and more of my friends are choosing to visit beaches near Puerto Angel that still have a fishing vibe instead of the classic surf beach combo of Zicatela Other favorites with travelers who are happy to commit the time to get off the beaten path include the lagoons of Chacahua and the dunes of Chipehua These are both several hours from Puerto Escondido and Huatulco My friend describes the experience of visiting Chacahua: “The magic is taking the collectivo boat about 45 minutes through the mangroves and arriving where the lagoon meets the sea When you get off the boat there is only one way to go You can instantly spot anyone who just arrived based on the confusion on their faces while they’re trying to decide which cabana they want to stay in If you run out there are no ATMs but you can buy cash with your card at the supermarket for a 10 percent fee.” Chacahua is a location that locals and those in the know guard fiercely the opening of the road will encourage more people to discover the diverse beauty of the Oaxaca coastline while respecting the areas they are visiting The road is free to use for everyone until September 2024 it will continue to be free for state residents with Oaxaca-registered cars but a toll will be put in place for everyone else The easiest way to make the journey is via ADO coaches which run every 1-2 hours and cost 299 pesos A 7.5-magnitude earthquake that shook southern and central Mexico on Tuesday morning damaged more than 500 homes in Oaxaca and left six people dead The Oaxaca government said in a statement that most of the affected homes only sustained minor damage, while Governor Alejandro Murat confirmed the deaths of five men and one woman as a result of the quake whose epicenter was located 23 kilometers south of La Crucecita a town in the tourist destination of Huatulco More than 30 people were injured during the earthquake Mexico’s 16th most powerful on record Homes and other buildings were damaged in at least 30 municipalities in Oaxaca including 13 in the Central Valleys region three in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and one in the Mixtec region At least 15 hospitals and health care clinics in Oaxaca were damaged as were four schools five state highways and a bridge also sustained damage or were affected by landslides A landslide on a highway in the municipality of San Juan Ozolotepec trapped two workers who were subsequently freed and taken to hospital The governor said Wednesday morning that all of the affected roads are now open to traffic Some 50 historical monuments also sustained damage as a result of the earthquake as did structures at the archaeological sites of Mitla the fire hall sustained severe damage but firefighters continued to provide services to the local community on Tuesday A fire broke out at the Pemex refinery in the coastal city of Salina Cruz shortly after the quake but was quickly put out Early reports said that a refinery worker died from burns after the earthquake triggered an explosion but the federal government said later that his death was the result of a fall from a five-meter-high structure The Oaxaca government said that 2,300 members of the military were deployed to respond to the earthquake explaining that they assessed damage and removed rubble The earthquake hit Oaxaca the hardest but was felt in 11 other states: Mexico City Hundreds of aftershocks have been reported since the quake struck at 10:29 a.m Tuesday including one with a magnitude of 5.5 The Federal Electricity Commission reported that the earthquake affected the supply of power to more than 2.6 million customers in several states damage was also reported in other parts of the country both the General Hospital in Chalco and an IMSS health care facility in Ecatepec sustained minor damage while water supply to the municipality of Nezahualcóyotl was interrupted the earthquake caused a phosphoric acid spill at an industrial plant in the port city of Coatzacoalcos where the sounding of the seismic alarm sent residents rushing to the street to seek safety in the open air two people were reportedly injured and 36 buildings sustained minor damage Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum said that four Mexico City government buildings were damaged The worst damage occurred at offices of the water department where a staircase became detached as a result of the powerful seismic waves that reached the capital from the quake epicenter about 700 kilometers away a five-story residential building sustained structural damage forcing the residents of all 40 apartments to evacuate Yesterday’s temblor came almost three years after two powerful earthquakes devastated southern and central Mexico in September 2017 Mexico is located within two active earthquake zones making tremors a common occurrence and occasional temblors an unavoidable fact of life Source: Milenio (sp), Reforma (sp)