The arched hallway to this market pays beautiful tribute to its fruit sellers
Despite only having been Interim President of Mexico for a few months in 1832
Melchor Múzquiz is the namesake of a fair few institutions in the country
The most notable of these is probably his birthplace of Santa Rosa
The market bearing his name in the town of San Ángel
The building housing the market was originally quite plain
typical of Mexico City public works in those years
the market was little more than a place for locals to buy produce and groceries
San Ángel would become completely engulfed in Mexico City's urban sprawl
With the area's growing reputation as a destination
artist Ariosto Otero Reyes was commissioned by local authorities to transform the outside of the market with murals
His finished work was unveiled in September 2008
Given free rein to choose the subject matter and medium for his murals
Reyes settled on a mix of folklorist scenes related to the market's trade and a tribute to his personal heroes
the murals break with the Mexican tradition of fresco painting favoring instead an almost collage-like mixed media approach involving rescued materials such as broken porcelain pieces and post-industrial refuse to create something similar to a tiled mosaic
The murals occupy the inside and outside walls of the market's front arched hallway and depict 67 people involved in various activities
While the majority of the 46 men and 21 women depicted are anonymous fruit sellers
some of the figures are significantly more recognizable
Reyes couldn't help but add a meta reference to the history of Mexican muralism in the mural itself
including the "Big Three" painters Diego Rivera
You can also find well-known figures such as the singer and classic film star Pedro Infante and writers Carlos Monsiváis and Elena Poniatowska gracing the walls
The mural hall can be visited even when the market is closed
some of the market stands will move to the outside hall and block the path and view to see the murals
Melchor Múzquiz is the official name of the market but most locals known it simply as Mercado de San Ángel
The ceiling of this shopping arcade is adorned with six trompe-l’œil artworks
Hundreds of graffiti artists have decorated this flood-wall on the west bank of the Mississippi River
This vivid painted ceramic sculpture evokes the expansiveness of the prairie sky
A former pyramid-shaped library with colorful murals lies just across the bay from Old San Juan
This magnificent work of art captures the spirit of the region
A fascinating community art piece created by students
and noted Philadelphia artist Isaiah Zagar
Created by Catalan artist Joan Miró in 1978 and made up of 350,000 tiles
this mural is the only large-scale glass mosaic the artist ever created
A mosaic made of materials gathered from this Brooklyn community adorns the walls of this tunnel
As we continue to celebrate National Hispanic Heritage Month
the Office of History and Culture enjoys exploring our local connections to the Spanish speaking countries of Central and South America
Did you know that Denton is a Friendship City to Múzquiz
Múzquiz became Denton’s official Friendship City
we are going to take a look at the connection between Denton and Múzquiz
Múzquiz is a mining city located about 100 miles south of the U.S.-Mexico border and is one of 38 municipalities of Coahuila in north-eastern Mexico
Father Juan Larios founded Santa Rosa mission in present day Muzquiz
Spanish missionaries and the native Kickapoo Indians occupied the area for many years
the city established as Villa de Múzquiz
who served as acting president of Mexico in 1832
The city with a population close to 70,000 serves as the a coal mining center for Coahuila. Silver
lead and zinc are also mined nearby. The area has a strong agricultural production of corn
and many farmers raise cattle and goats. Some of the residents have ties to their indigenous heritage
and a small percentage of the population speak native languages including Kickapoo and Nahuatl
Men dressed in traditional Kickapoo clothing
Denton experienced a wave of immigration from Coahuila
People came to Denton to work for companies like Acme Brick, Morrison Milling
Many of the families of these workers stayed in Denton but continued to keep close ties to Múzquiz
Múzquiz’s Mayor Luis Santos visited Denton for the chance to meet Denton’s mayor and speak about the possibility of becoming sister cities or friendship cities
At the time, the mayor of Denton was not available
but Mayor Santos was able to meet with city councilman Jim Englebrecht. After a positive meeting between the two
the next steps included establishing an organization in Denton to help bridge the connection between Denton and Múzquiz. From this decision
The ten founding members of Proyecto Diez (10) include: Mayela De La Garza
Proyecto 10 introduced themselves to the community by hosting a Posada event at Denton’s Martin Luther King Center
the partnership between Denton and Múzquiz continued to grow
Proytecto 10 worked with the mayor and members of Denton City Council
including John Cabrales and Michelle Cunningham, to initiate the Friendship City agreement
Mayor Luis Santos of Múzquiz returned to Denton to sign the Friendship City agreement at Denton City Hall
Denton Mayor Chris Watts presented Mayor Santos with bullet proof vests and firefighting gear
all donated from Denton’s police and fire departments
Mayor Santos was also featured in Denton’s Cinco de Mayo parade
The result of becoming friendship cities has provided many opportunities for both the citizens of Denton and Múzquiz
The members of Proyecto 10 stayed busy throughout 2015
and the organization collected school supplies
sent emergency supplies to those in need after the destructive tornado in the neighboring city of Acuña
and donated toys to the children for Christmas
Mayor Luis Santos returned to Denton to present a leather handcrafted saddle and marble top table to the City of Denton
These items displayed the craftsmanship of the people of Múzquiz
the people of Múzquiz also built a large stone sign at the entrance to the city that reads: “Muzquiz-Denton: Ciudades Amigas,” which translates to friendship cities
Mayor Watts and Mayor Santos with the marble table donated to the City of Denton in 2016
For the 2016 celebration of National Hispanic Heritage Month, the Museo Historico de Múzquiz partnered with Proyecto 10 and loaned several large exhibit panels with the history of Múzquiz and the Coahuila region to Denton
This exhibit was displayed in the Commissioners Courtroom at the Denton County Courthouse-on-the-Square. This was an opportunity for the Denton community to learn more about their new friendship city
Proyecto 10 continues to raise awareness about the needs of the people of Múzquiz
Proyecto 10 has also partnered with the local chapter of LULAC to help raise money
including scholarships for students in the community
and money to help individuals in Múzquiz living with disabilities
Members of Proyecto 10 with Mayor Luis Santos of Muzquiz at Denton’s Cinco de Mayo parade in 2015
Special thanks to Aida Urquidez and Proyecto 10 for the information about Múzquiz
You can visit their booth to learn more about their organization during the 2018 Denton County Hispanic Heritage Festival on Saturday October 6
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awoke to severe flooding Thursday after a storm dumped about 30 centimeters of rain on the municipality
and nearby communities have been affected by the flooding
with some families trapped in their homes due to the abundance of water
Múzquiz Mayor Tania Flores declared a state of emergency in the municipality
In another post in the early afternoon she thanked all the rescuers who risked their lives to save those of others
Accompanying video footage showed a rescue worker carrying a young boy through waist-high water
Government helicopters were also deployed to aid rescue efforts as streets in Múzquiz appeared more like fast-flowing rivers
The newspaper Milenio reported the death of cattle and pets
but no human fatalities had been reported in the municipality by late Thursday afternoon
“Today we lived through a time of crisis and sadness … [in which] 70% of the population lost everything they had,” Flores wrote in another Facebook post
“I never thought … we would have such a large natural disaster
… There are thousands of victims in Múzquiz
… I ask everyone in different municipalities for your help
She also posted heartfelt video messages to her Facebook page
sobbing as she shared footage of some of the affected areas
“Move away from flooded areas because [the situation] is critical,” she said in one video
“My heart breaks to see what is happening in Múzquiz.”
Shelters were set up to receive people rescued by authorities and private citizens
canoes and other watercraft to navigate the flooded streets
members of the National Guard and Civil Protection personnel were among the official rescuers who worked throughout the day
The newspaper El Universal reported that flooding was higher than one meter in low-lying parts of Múzquiz
stranded vehicles and caused local waterways
The flooding closed schools and many businesses in Melchor Múzquiz
located about 140 kilometers north of Monclova and a similar distance southwest of the northern border city of Piedras Negras
The region has experienced heavy rain in recent days and one person was swept away by floodwaters and drowned in the municipality of Acuña on Tuesday, Milenio said. Also in the region, 10 presumably deceased coal miners remain underground in the municipality of Sabinas almost a month after the mine in which they were working flooded when a wall collapsed during excavation work
Flooding has also recently affected other parts of northern Mexico
where authorities warned that people driving quad bikes or other vehicles recklessly in water-clogged streets will be detained
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Partly cloudy skies this evening will give way to cloudy skies and rain overnight
Early September floods devastated the Mexican city Múzquiz
Múzquiz Mayor Tania Flores has been sharing photographs of the flood’s aftermath on her Facebook page
Múzquiz Mayor Tania Flores snaps a photograph of a child
one of thousands of residents affected by the floodwaters in early September
This story has been updated to correct a misspelling of Juanita Salazar Guajardo's last name
The rescue worker carried the boy as high as he could lift him as they made their way through waist-deep water in Múzquiz, Denton’s friendship city in Coahuila, Mexico. Just under a foot of rain had dropped on the city Thursday, causing severe flooding that has displaced more than 70% of the residents, who lost everything in the storm, Mexico News Daily reported on Sept. 1
and the surrounding communities in what the News Daily described as “fast-flowing rivers” that flowed into homes and the vehicles of stranded motorists
Businesses and schools were forced to close
Government helicopters were deployed to help rescuers
Múzquiz Mayor Tania Flores shared a video of the floodwaters and the rescuer carrying the boy on Facebook on Thursday and declared a state of emergency
though tens of thousands among more than 71,000 people who live in Múzquiz have been displaced and are in desperate need of help
“I never thought … we would have such a large natural disaster,” Flores said on Facebook
“There are thousands of victims in Múzquiz
… I ask everyone in different municipalities for your help
where more than 5,000 people from Múzquiz live
according to a 2016 Denton Record-Chronicle report
Several of them are putting together donation drop-offs to help their hometown community
whose family migrated from Múzquiz when she was 4 years old
she began sharing posts on social media seeking the public’s help
“My native hometown suffered from heavy rain that caused flooding,” Guajardo wrote Monday on Nextdoor
“My husband and I will be making a special trip to Múzquiz to transport donations to help those in need.”
They hope to pull a trailer filled with items on Sept
16 in hopes the mud-covered roadways will be open by then
and supplies are a big expense for families,” Guajardo continued
“Their items were destroyed because they’re not kept at school like they are here.”
Guajardo also shared items that Flores said were in great need: mattresses
“Anything you would need if you were in their shoes,” Guajardo pointed out at the end of her social media post
“I know Denton won’t disappoint in helping our Friendship City
and I believe that we all can give back a little bit of what we have to someone who needs it
In her quest to raise awareness about the devastation in Múzquiz
Guajardo said she also contacted Denton Mayor Gerard Hudspeth for help
but she said she hadn’t heard back from him by Tuesday afternoon
Efforts by the Record-Chronicle to reach Hudspeth on Tuesday also were unsuccessful
The ties that bind Denton and Múzquiz stretch back to the 1970s, when people from Múzquiz began moving their families to North Texas and contributing to the local business community and playing a “major role in city life,” as freelance writer Jim Dale pointed out in his three-part series for the Record-Chronicle in February 2016 about his trip to Múzquiz
then business development officer for Denton
“The connection between the two cities is remarkable
It’s been a growing part of the city for decades
but no one has had a feel for how significant it really is until fairly recently.”
then-Mayor Chris Watts and other Denton leaders proclaimed a friendship alliance with Múzquiz
Seven years later, some of those memories that tie the two communities together were no doubt part of the debris and rubble left behind in the city streets by the floodwaters
“As mayor at the time when Denton and Múzquiz
I am deeply saddened by the devastation of their city and community by massive flooding,” Watts said
“Most of the population has been displaced as a result of the flooding
and let’s do what we can to ease their suffering.”
Guajardo and others from these friendship communities are hoping those ties will help some of the tens of thousands who have lost everything
said people there are needing basic necessities and household items such as forks and pots and pans as well as bath towels
“I’m just trying to reach anyone who has something they don’t need,” she said
just something that works and can be reused.”
Guajardo has already collected a lot of clothing
but they’re also in the early stages of speaking with other community members about taking a caravan of items across the southern border
And while a shelter has been set up in Múzquiz
is able to make it to the shelter because of the impassable roads
and one of them recently shared a photo on social media and said that he wasn’t able to drive his truck into town
People are being forced to walk from the outskirts
Guajardo said the forecast for when they plan to go in mid-September reveals it will be sunny
and they’re hoping he’ll be able to use it to reach people on the outskirts and provide assistance
“I don’t work with a political group or any specific group,” she said
“I’m just a concerned individual who loves my hometown and its residents.”
CHRISTIAN McPHATE can be reached at 940-220-4299 and via Twitter at @writerontheedge
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Tucked away in a corner of the state of Coahuila
only a couple of hours from the United States border
lies a municipality with an open secret: two communities — one of African descendants (called Mascogos in Mexico) and one of Kickapoo
both who fled the United States in the 19th century
The twin communities are both called Nacimiento
but distinguished from each other not so subtly with the appendages de los Negros and de los Indios
Both communities belong to the municipality of Muzquiz
The two ethnicities share similar stories: both were displaced on multiple occasions in the 19th century as the United States expanded and consolidated its hold on territories west and into Florida
Both groups would find at least a measure of asylum in Mexican territory
generally in exchange for military services
Both groups have familial and tribal connections to the United States
Their communities are separate from the main town of Muzquiz
and only partly connected to the rest of the world
Traditional life for both revolves around farming
livestock and semiautonomous communal governing systems
Both groups have received attention from U.S
Although many in Coahuila consider both the Kickapoo and the Mascogos to be somewhat hostile to outsiders
both are important to the identity of Muzquiz
in 2018 in large part due to their presence
Both groups wound up here because Muzquiz began as a fort in 1737 to protect Spanish settlements from Comanche attacks
The current name was given to the municipality in 1832 in honor of an interim president of Mexico who was from here
there are important differences in the stories of the two groups
The Kickapoo were forced south from their native Wisconsin during the 18th and 19th centuries
which have descendants in various parts of Kansas
The group that made its way to Coahuila was first allowed into Mexican Texas in 1824
put diplomatic pressure on Mexico on various occasions during the 1800s to “return” Kickapoo to be settled on reservations
gaining permission in exchange for scouting and other services to the Mexican government
troops to “repatriate” these Kickapoo led to the Mexican government granting them communal lands to bolster their legal status
a group of 200 Kickapoo left Nacimiento — not for the United States but for Tamichopa
This Sonoran Kickapoo community still exists today
The Kickapoo have had success in maintaining their identity and bloodlines
Everyone in Nacimiento de los Indios speaks Kickapoo
the only non-native Indian language spoken in Mexico
They also speak Spanish or English or both
Their community is more isolated than that of the Mascogos
They still take their drinking water directly from the headwaters of the Sabinas River
the cleanest river water I have seen in Mexico
Some gas and electricity (from generators) are used
but most communications and other services must be obtained in Muzquiz or Eagle Pass
Religious life remains strong for the Kickapoo and relatively unchanged
Like the Huichol indigenous people of Mexico
the deer figures prominently in Kickapoo beliefs
with deerskin moccasins and other apparel highly prized
they have adapted to farming and livestock raising but keep a nomadic element to their lifestyle
They have seasonal moves between Nacimiento and various parts of the United States
often arranging with the neighboring Mascogos to care for their property while they are gone
This migration now figures into their religious ceremonies as well
Their strong ties and conservation of identity mean that this group is recognized by tribal authorities in the United States
Nacimiento Kickapoo automatically have dual Mexican and U.S
citizenship and can travel freely between the two countries
This ethnicity arose with escaped slaves making their way to Spanish Florida
The people who became the Mascogos (the name probably derived from “Muskogee”) were led into Coahuila by the Black Seminole leader John Horse in the 1850s
The Mascogos worked as scouts for both the Mexican and U.S
they are divided between Nacimiento and Brackettville
with family ties maintaining a connection between the two communities
Their African-American heritage is visible in their cuisine (a mix of Mexican and Deep South foods and cooking techniques)
their traditional houses (based on log cabins) and their Protestant Christian beliefs
They spoke English until a couple of generations ago when it became relegated only to hymns and the very old
and in 2017 the governor of Coahuila recognized them as an indigenous group with the hope of gaining support for them from Mexico’s National Institute of Indigenous Peoples
the Mascogos do not have recognition by the Seminole tribe in the U.S.
nor the citizenship privileges that go along with it
This is mostly likely due to their mixed ancestry
which continues as Mascogos intermarry with local “Mexicans.”
Neither community has more than a couple of hundred members
so their futures are questionable at the very least
In addition to assimilation into Mexican society
the other factor working against them is the economic draw of migrating north across a border that is tantalizingly close
Efforts such as Pueblo Mágico status have been made in the hopes of somehow maintaining their heritage only five to six generations after their arrival
livestock and leather is as important as its Mascogo and Kickapoo communities (who often do much of the same work)
But I think Americans like me can be forgiven if we are drawn more strongly to our “lost brethren” forced to flee to another country so long ago
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 17 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture. She publishes a blog called Creative Hands of Mexico and her first book, Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta, was published last year
Her culture blog appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
Saturdays are the busy days along the beautiful cobblestones of Colonia San Ángel in southwest Mexico City as tourists flock
flaunt and ogle their way to El Bazaar Sábado
But there’s still a bit of solace to be had
the most high-end of Mexico City’s weekly markets and one of the most popular
even featured on Gwyneth Paltrow’s goop.com (to give you an idea what we’re working with)
Live Bossa Nova music outside the fancified Saks Restaurant sets the scene for an upscale afternoon in San Ángel
given its Anglo-Spanish name by its American founders
was conceived as a weekly tianguis to display Mexican crafts and international contemporary art
The bazaar opened at Doctor Gálvez #23 in 1960 but quickly overtook its space and moved to its current
gorgeous 17th-century colonial home at Plaza Jacinto #11 in 1964
As you enter the stone archway there is a deep country club vibe among the pressed cottons and wide-brimmed sun hats
You almost expect a passing polo player to pull you up into the saddle for a better view of the works
Yet nearly all the items are flawlessly crafted
The shops are run out of separate rooms throughout the mansion and mostly tended by the artisans who actually make the product
José Antonio Rodríguez Pérez (the son of one of Bazaar Sábado’s founders) sells his sexualized surrealist sculptures
The intricate designs beg to be touched and the moveable circular mirrors to be spun for a trippy view of the room
the figures and dinnerware in ceramic and glass are well-priced for their perfection – the styles ranging from kitschy/cute to minimal utilitarian
young devotees of famed jewelry maker Olga Hinojosa sell her flora-inspired
intricately designed sterling silver rings and pendants to a whole new audience
continues to design and teach in Cuernavaca
the feel of the country club continues with a sun-dappled buffet at Restaurante Bazaar Sábado
the fare is thoroughly homecooked Mexican and a surprisingly good deal at 215 pesos
Plaza San Jacinto is chock full of artworks for sale by their creators
running the gamut from original talent to telltale hackery
There are new artists in their 20s and some who have been selling here for decades
horrendous vomits of color; traditional sculptures and masks; punkified historical figures; or
a portrait of a cat pilot barrel rolling his fighter jet over patches of farmland below
But this is one of the largest weekly sales of working artists in the city
and there is certainly something to be found for every taste
Across from the plaza is Museo Casa Del Risco
worth a free visit for the centerpiece fountain alone
which is made of hundreds of broken pieces of historical pottery from around the world
The museum was the former home of the one-time governor of the state of México
and features his collections of Baroque religious paintings and European portraits
Take a walk up the winding staircase for the 1850s lithographs of Plaza San Jacinto and compare it to the ultra-modern
live view out the window to the plaza below
you’ll run along the outdoor Saturday Bazaar with a bit more of a modestly priced selection
curated toward local and international tourists of the eclectic
The occasional Lamborghini passes as we (I) all hope that it might just smash a fender on a larger than average cobblestone
And middle-aged ladies meander through in blinding pink and yellow floral prints that challenge the color spectrum
threatening to break a rainbow right in half
a lady selling tiny sweet pancake-like gorditas keeps watch at the gate to the Parish of San Jacinto
The bougainvillea-covered walls and lush grounds are small but wonderfully tended
surprisingly silent escape from the surrounding bustle
Back down into town along Calle Arteaga and the scene is lively
Along the back entrance to Mercado Melchor Múzquiz run a number of taco stands with the chopped or stewed tacos of your choice – all of them good
Mercado Múzquiz is said to be where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera regularly did their shopping in San Ángel
and the market’s main attraction runs across the façade at the Avenida Revolución entrance – a mural by Ariosto Otero
the mural was added when the market was renovated in 2008
and represents everyday market activities and features popular artists of music
And you can take it all in while you wait in the deep but fast-moving line for San Ángel’s best seafood
just through the mural threshold at Marisquería La Bamba San Ángel
• Bazaar Sábado is on Plaza San Jacinto #11
open Saturdays from 10:00am to 6:00pm and Mercado Melchor Múzquiz is at Avenida Revolución and Múzquiz
This is the 10th in a series on the bazaars