Print Friends of the slain attorney said she made many enemies by advocating for her speaking Indigenous community and demanding justice for women who were victims of violence
MEXICO CITY — She was a fearless advocate for her Mixe Indigenous community
a lawyer and mother who denounced violence against women — while also exposing misogynist chat groups among politicians in Mexico’s southern Oaxaca state
Her high-profile activism led to death threats
but Sandra Estéfana Domínguez Martínez wasn’t one to back down
Now her many admirers say that defiance cost Domínguez her life
Domínguez and her husband were last seen Oct
4 in her home region in eastern Oaxaca’s Mixe heartland
prosecutors confirmed the discovery of the couple’s remains in shallow graves in neighboring Veracruz state
Both had execution-style gunshot wounds to their heads
amid swirling charges of an official cover-up
which has a large Indigenous population and is among Mexico’s poorest states — while also a fast-growing tourist destination
on death of Sandra Estéfana Domínguez Martínez
The government’s actions point to “an institutional operation” to conceal official involvement
another Oaxaca attorney and activist who worked closely with Domínguez
“It was a very orchestrated job,” Galván said
Pacific beaches and mezcal-drenched party scene
Oaxaca is also the site of often-bloody clashes — sometimes involving organized crime — centering on contentious disputes about land rights
development schemes and the trafficking of drugs and migrants
The kidnap-murder of the couple stands as the latest in a disturbing slew of killings
assassins on a motorcycle in the colonial-era state capital of Oaxaca City gunned down two sisters who were well-known advocates for their Indigenous Triqui community
separate shooting attacks in rural areas killed four community leaders who had opposed development projects both along the coast and in the state’s interior
Oaxaca’s spate of violence made international headlines: Police reported the grisly discovery of the dismembered
bullet-riddled remains of nine young Mexican men and women inside and next to an abandoned Volkswagen sedan along a highway in adjoining Puebla state
The violence has exposed a dark side to the tourist mecca
a disturbing look that Mexican officials aren’t especially keen to talk about
World & Nation
They gather shortly after daybreak outside a minimarket, the tropical heat thickening, the dawn haze in lethargic retreat.
President Claudia Sheinbaum, who assumed office last October vowing to stamp out a national epidemic of feminicides — the murder of women because of their gender — has largely ignored the slaying of Domínguez and her husband in her daily news briefings.
Advocates blame a sinister partnership of organized crime and crooked politicians for the killing of Domínguez, 38. They accuse the Oaxaca state government — dominated by Sheinbaum’s ruling Morena bloc — of brushing off any connection between the lawyer’s murder and her long history of advocacy.
Authorities “have tried to smear Sandra and said her work has nothing to do with what happened to her,” said Yésica Sánchez Maya, a fellow human rights activist in Oaxaca. “But, in fact, there are a lot of reasons why some people would not want Sandra alive.”
Domínguez had amassed a long ledger of enemies, notably powerful male politicos whom she publicly shamed as sexist abusers in a state that has been slow to shed a legacy of crude machismo and fiat rule in the countryside by caciques, or dictatorial regional bosses.
State prosecutors have explicitly dismissed any link between Domínguez’s activism and her fate. The lawyer was a “collateral” victim in an organized-crime turf battle that actually targeted her husband, Alexander Hernández, according to the Oaxaca attorney general, José Bernardo Rodríguez.
Hernández, 46, was involved in “illicit activities, arms trafficking, people trafficking [and] extortions,” Rodríguez told Mexico’s Milenio news outlet.
Relatives and allies of Domínguez say the accusations left them stunned: Hernández, they say, was never publicly linked to organized crime — until he and his wife were executed.
“The easiest thing for state authorities is to say this had nothing to do with Sandra’s work — that this was all about her husband,” said Sánchez, who was Domínguez’s longtime colleague and a fellow lawyer.
World & Nation
Mexico’s attorney general said a forensic investigation found ‘not a shred of proof’ that corpses were burned at a ranch that was used as a training camp by the Jalisco New Generation Cartel.
The government’s actions point to “an institutional operation” to conceal official involvement, said Joaquín Galván, another Oaxaca attorney and activist who worked closely with Domínguez.
“It was a very orchestrated job,” Galván said. “There was collaboration between organized crime and officials of the Oaxaca government to disappear and assassinate Sandra.”
Domínguez was a legend in Oaxaca’s extensive activist circles. Her passion was assisting vulnerable women, particularly those from the mostly impoverished Mixe ethnic group, also known as the Ayuuk. She was tireless, say family and friends, in pursuing the truth in instances of disappeared and abused women whose victimization was ignored by corrupt local authorities.
“As an Ayuuk woman, she embraced the defense of her people and of all the Indigenous women who suffered violence and discrimination,” her sister, Kisha Domínguez, said in a Facebook homage. “When a woman came to her seeking help, Sandra always responded. She never hesitated to accompany someone, to assist them, to raise her voice when others were silent.”
In one well-known case, Domínguez successfully pushed authorities to investigate feminicide in the death of Fanny Guadalupe López, a Mixe teenager whose death in 2021 was initially ruled a suicide. Activists and relatives argued that Fanny, 16, was murdered after years of abuse by her much older boyfriend and a local official.
Domínguez’s most provocative action was her bombshell public disclosure, starting in 2021, of online chat groups sharing images of Indigenous women, accompanied by sexist banter. The chats — dubbed “Sierra XXX” and “Mega Peda” — circulated among scores of prominent Oaxacan lawmakers and power brokers. A Morena political candidate had to drop out of the state legislature race when linked to the sneering commentary.
Prominently implicated in the misogynist online clique was Donato Vargas, who holds the title of Oaxaca’s state “peace” coordinator, a kind of community liaison. Feminists demanded the ouster of Vargas, who also faced allegations of physical abuse from a former female companion. Oaxaca officials defended Vargas.
When Domínguez went missing more than six months ago, her supporters called on Oaxaca Gov. Salamón Jara to investigate Vargas, a politically powerful figure who they say potentially had a grudge against Domínguez.
The governor, speaking to reporters in late October, told reporters that he would ask his “friend” Vargas to take a “few days” leave and speak with prosecutors.
“We have no reason to protect anyone,” Jara said.
Vargas did not respond to requests for comment from the Los Angeles Times.
From almost the moment that Domínguez was reported missing on Oct. 8, supporters accused Oaxacan authorities of slow-walking the inquiry. International organizations, including the United Nations and Amnesty International, called on Mexican authorities to step it up. Federal officers were directed to aid in the hunt.
The search focused on an area of Veracruz state, just across the line from Oaxaca and the couple’s home in the remote and sweltering agricultural burg of María Lombardo de Caso, about 200 miles from Oaxaca City.
Authorities soon found the couple’s abandoned vehicle and Dominguez’s cellphone. Leads brought police to an isolated ranch called El Capricho — The Whim — where a gun battle on Jan. 29 left four dead — an officer and three confederates of a “criminal cell” tied to the kidnapping, authorities said.
Still, the search dragged on, an emotional journey for Domínguez’s loved ones, who held on to fading hopes that she may still be alive — despite steep odds in a country where forced disappearances seldom yield happy endings.
All hope was dashed on April 24. That’s when police found the corpses buried in two ditches along a dirt road, some 30 miles from the couple’s home. The discovery was announced publicly four days later.
At least two other suspects, including a woman, were in custody, according to the Oaxaca prosecutor, who didn’t provide further details.
“Justicia!” was the chant of distraught and outraged mourners last week at a memorial service in Oaxaca City. Domínguez’s coffin was draped in purple fabric, a testament to her feminist credo. Her mother, Aracely Martínez, peered into the flower-bedecked grave, the anguish of 206 days of torment waiting to learn of her daughter’s fate etched in her face.
“There are no words for what they did to you,” the mother said, sobbing. “The state killed you, my daughter.”
McDonnell is a Times staff writer. Sánchez Vidal is a special correspondent.
Foreign correspondent Patrick J. McDonnell is the Los Angeles Times Mexico City bureau chief and previously headed Times bureaus in Beirut, Buenos Aires and Baghdad. A native of the Bronx, McDonnell is a graduate of Columbia’s Graduate School of Journalism and was a Nieman fellow at Harvard.
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Monterey County is made up of a large community of diverse
family-owned businesses including a variety of Hispanic-owned businesses
In recognition of Hispanic Heritage Month which runs from September 15 - October 15 and celebrates the generations of Hispanic Americans who have influenced and enriched our society
we have highlighted a few of the many amazing Hispanic-owned businesses here in Monterey County!
Alejandro’s (Monterey) - Oaxacan influences
Aquino’s Birrieria (Pacific Grove) - Owners emigrated from Oaxaca
Cultura Carmel (Carmel-by-the-Sea) - "Cultura’s cooking is inspired by the cuisine of Mexico
with particular attention paid to the region of Oaxaca
It might not be the right place to take abuela for an authentic taste of home
Tucked among shops in a courtyard away from the street
this dining room resembles a sort of Mexican taberna
coffered ceilings and wrought-iron accents
dine alfresco around the courtyard’s fire pits
Try the house-made Cultura mole with smoked pork
which arrives as a feast of freshly made tortillas and lightly pickled vegetable slaw for assemble-your-own tacos
Save room for desserts like the dense and dark Oaxacan chocolate brownie with a touch of chili and cinnamon cloaked in ganache." - MICHELIN GUIDE
Culturas Hidalgo & Oaxaca Restaurant (Salinas) - Local favorite restaurant specializing in Mexican cuisine from the regions of Hidalgo and Oaxaca
Cocina Yatzeche (Seaside) - Hidden gem best known by Seaside locals
Oaxacan cuisine features homemade tortillas
tlayudas and hard-to-find authentic beverages like tejate (maiz and cacao beverage traditionally made in Oaxaca
originating from pre-Hispanic times) and chilacayote (a refreshing candied squash water drink)
El Cantaro (Monterey) - Vegan health-conscious Mexican restaurant featuring Oaxacan specialties including memelitas and tlayudas.
El Charrito (Salinas and Monterey) - A family-owned business
known for its hand-stretch flour tortillas, that uses old Mexican cooking techniques to serve the community
La Tortuga (Seaside) - "Since 1999
we have been a beloved and enduring fixture in the seaside community
serving as a cherished family staple of Oaxacan cuisine
we have established ourselves as a trusted and dependable destination for traditional culinary delights." - La Tortuga
Mando’s Restaurant (Monterey) - Chef Mando emigrated from Oaxaca
Restaurant San Pedro (Castroville) - No frills restaurant offering delicious authentic Oaxacan food
quesadillas de quesillo (a cheese unique to Oaxaca) and menudo
Villa Azteca (Salinas) - Chef Susana uses her vision and passion for traditional Mexican food with an innovative twist to ensure all guests have an amazing experience
Don’t forget to check out their signature cocktail menu and try out their Paloma flight
Double Dz Birrieria (Salinas)
La Tequita Istmeña (Soledad) - "Established in 2021
La Tequita Itsmeña food truck was created to give an outlet to the authentic flavors and unique style from Oaxaca
One family couldn’t help but notice that in an area populated by many with an Oaxacan background
there weren’t too many places that served up the flavors from the indigenous region
They decided to start up a food truck to showcase the delicious recipes of their mother who has been cooking these dishes since childhood
an entire community is enjoying the delicious cuisine they know and love with a diverse style that makes it stand out amongst the rest." - La Tequita Istmeña
Lonchera La Paloma (Salinas)
Sabor Latin Fusion (Salinas)
Tacos Pacheco (Salinas)
Brew - N - Krew Ale House (Salinas) - This unique brewery is not only Hispanic-owned but women-owned as well
It is one of the newest spots in downtown Salinas
"serving beer con cultura," Brew-N-Krew is a must-try
Corral Wine Co (Carmel Valley) - Check out this family-owned and operated Corral Wine Co
in Corral De Tierra and have a glass of Pinot Noir at their tasting room located in Carmel Valley
Lepe Cellars (Carmel-by-the-Sea) - Stemming from passion and dedication
The tasting room is located in Carmel-by-the-Sea and the wine is available in different locations around the area such as Alvarado Bistro and Rio Grill in Carmel
Stokes Adobe in Monterey and Village Wine and Tap Room in Carmel Valley
El Rancho Market (Marina) - Although there are a few local markets around the County
El Rancho Market has a meat market and a full menu of made-to-order tortas
La Preciosa Family Market (Seaside) - Here you can get fruits
vegetables and other ingredients for your lunch or dinner
La Oaxaqueña Inc. (Seaside) - "La Oaxaquena Inc
was born on April 2015 in the city of Oaxaca
the main objective is to provide the Oaxacan community in the United States with high-quality products at fair prices
but also to create a gateway for the Latin American and American market towards Oaxacan culture." - La Oaxaqueña
Angelina’s Bakery (Seaside) - Looking for a last-minute cake for an event
They offer a selection of pastries and cakes custom-made
Emma's Bakery and Cafe (Salinas) - This bakery and cafe is devoted to serving customers mouthwatering dishes that feature the highest quality ingredients available
Try their breakfast and lunch items and finish off your meal with handmade fruit pies
Casa Oaxaca Bakery (Salinas) - Mexican bakery specializing in traditional Oaxacan recipes
including pan de yema (a Day of the Dead bread from Oaxaca)
La Plaza Bakery (Salinas)
Lupita’s Bakery (Seaside) - With its deep roots in family tradition derived from San Pablo
recipes have been passed along from generation to generation
the Morales brothers keep their mother's legacy going by providing quality bread and pastries for the community
Panaderia Acambaritas (Salinas)
Panaderia Tres Hermanos (Salinas)
Zimatlan Bakery (Seaside) - "Family owned bakery with baking tradition passed on father to son through decades of experience with the aim to serve our community delicious Oaxacan cuisine
Mexican bread and custom made cakes." - Zimatlan Bakery & Deli
and local stories to help you make the most of your Monterey adventure
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Oaxaca Back to topAttractionsMust-see attractionsMuseo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
You'll need it for the Museum of Oaxacan Cultures
housed in the beautiful monastery buildings adjoining the Templo de Santo Domingo
Templo de Santo Domingo
Gorgeous Santo Domingo is the most splendid of Oaxaca’s churches
with a finely carved baroque facade and nearly every square centimeter inside decorated…
Playa Zicatela
Legendary 3.5km-long Zicatela is the best-known surfing spot in Mexico courtesy of the tempestuous surfing waves of the Mexican Pipeline
Playa Zipolite
running for a good 1.5km and dispatching massive waves
It's famous for its nudity; you'll see people randomly swimming,…
Punta Cometa
jutting out from the west end of Mazunte beach
is the southernmost point in the state of Oaxaca and a fabulous place to hike at sunset…
Playa Carrizalillo
set in a sheltered cove west of the center that's reached by a stairway of 157 steps
Playa Salchi
Halfway between the western edge of Parque Nacional Huatulco and Puerto Ángel awaits some of the most precious coastline in Oaxaca
Laguna de Manialtepec
beginning 14km west of Puerto Escondido along Hwy 200
is an essential spot for bird enthusiasts and a fascinating place…
View more attractionsPlanning ToolsExpert guidance to help you plan your tripFree Things to Do
With grand architecture, colorful markets and free galleries – not to mention affordable accommodation and food – Oaxaca is budget travel at its best.
Plan with a localExperience the real Mexico
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Mexican manufacturing company Oaxaca Aerospace has announced plans to bring the first-ever 100% made-in-Mexico aircraft
“We will begin manufacturing the first aircraft based on [clients’] orders, to be delivered within 12 months,” Raúl Fernández, president of Oaxaca Aerospace, said during the aircraft’s official presentation at the Mexican Aerospace Fair (Famex) 2025
held at the Santa Lucía Air Base in Mexico City last week
the Pegasus PE-210A will sell for US $3 million
representing 30% of the cost of similar aircraft on the international market
“It will be able to perform missions very similar to those of a Texan model
but with much more affordable acquisition and operating costs,” Fernández said
According to executives at Oaxaca Aerospace
the design phase alone required an investment of nearly US $30 million
is a two-seat aircraft featuring a tandem cockpit configuration where passengers are seated one behind the other
It has an operational range of 1,600 kilometers
and can attain speeds of approximately 388 km/h
Its maximum flight duration will be five hours
The project required 14 years of research and development carried out by a team of 25 individuals
Various national and international institutions collaborated in the plane’s development
including the National Polytechnic Institute
and the National Institute for Aviation Research in the United States
which provided specialized technical support
the Mexican company also revealed details of another project under development: the Pegasus P-400T
a prototype geared toward advanced tactical missions and light attack operations
This model will feature an engine of up to 600 horsepower
The company explained that the P-400T will be able to carry light weapons according to customer requirements and will be compatible with emerging propulsion technologies
such as the use of hydrogen as an alternative fuel
executive advisor to the Business Coordinating Council (CCE)
said in a press conference that Oaxaca Aerospace has the potential to capture up to 1% of the global light aircraft market
which would represent an annual demand for approximately 50 units
Oaxaca Aerospace had one goal in mind: designing and manufacturing aircraft entirely in Mexico
headquartered in the southern state of Oaxaca
was driven by the vision and resources of the Fernández Group
which opted for national innovation without resorting to large investors or foreign capital
“We’ve already fulfilled the dream; the plane is already flying,” Fernández said
“Now comes the second challenge: mass production.”
With reports from Wired and Proceso
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Casa Baori was the perfect choice for our stay in Puerto Angel because had we not wanted to leave the property
The chic design with natural materials like jute
perfectly aligned with the rocky coast's natural environment
I made a beeline straight for the sliding doors of our patio to see a view of the shimmering Pacific framed by our very own terrace
Three sleek lounge chairs sat on the edge with an uninterrupted ocean view
I felt a sense of privacy and intimacy here even though the property was part of a larger communal villa
Our two-bedroom bungalow was self-catering with all the amenities we needed: a kitchen
and even a surround sound system to enjoy music with our morning coffee
ArrowOne of the most memorable parts of our three-night stay was the complimentary daily breakfast
This wasn’t just any old continental spread
This breakfast felt as good as any I’ve experienced at high-end luxury restaurants or hotels
communal wooden table overlooking the ocean
We were served hot pots of local Oaxacan coffee and freshly baked bread in baskets
which I slathered with some life-changing fresh mango and mandarin jams
offering a unique and incredible plate of local Mexican cuisine each time
frying freshly made corn tortillas for chilaquiles next to bags of vibrant local vegetables
There was also an offer of a private cooking service should you want it
natural wood communal kitchen—beautiful marble worktops and breakfast bar equipped with every high-tech kitchen item you could ever need
some guests we met at breakfast went to the nearby beach and collected fresh morning-caught snapper from the local fisherman to make for their evening meal
Every detail of this stay was considered: The shared areas included a meditation space with a hammock, a bar, a mini kitchen area to make drinks, a firepit, a living and reading room, a co-working area, and a panoramic infinity pool
It was hard not to spend every minute in this secluded coastal haven and never leave
but like the beautiful whales greeting me in the morning
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The people of the Sierra Norte have achieved a rare balance – preserving an ancient way of mountain life while welcoming visitors
marvelling at what combination of brawn and piety must have been needed to build such a thing at such a height
but I can tell that mass at 3,000 metres must be magnificent
Open walls reach out to the rolling slopes of the Sierra Norte
35 miles east of Oaxaca City in southern Mexico
a brown-backed solitaire bird lifts a lonely song over the valley
believed here to ferry messages between the living and dead
View image in fullscreenMy guide
judging by his ability to tell stories on the climb
becomes quiet and crosses himself before the altar
I’m a little surprised at this show of devotion
Down in the small town of Tlacolula de Matamoros
he had shown us a site the Indigenous Zapotecs used to praise the sacred mountain above – before the Spanish came and plonked a church on the same spot
But when conversion comes at the point of a sword
Dark stones in holy corners hold animist engravings
Praise whispered in the name of the Virgin of Guadalupe
and watch wild horses gallop on wide green plainsEric gathers pine needles in a small clay cup and lights them on the altar together with chunks of amber resin
he leaves an apple and a banana at the entrance
and watches in silence as the smoke carries his wishes to the heavens
The mountain is just north of Llano Grande
one of the self-ruling villages in these mountains that form the Pueblos Mancomunados (united villages)
Each holds a few hundred people living in log cabins
It’s a million miles from the shining streets and buzzing mezcal bars of Oaxaca City
the air freezes; when I’m woken by the cock crow in the morning
beans and corn of all colours from the hard ground
The people abide by an iron rule: adults must commit one year in every three to community work
it has also meant participating in their tourism project
View image in fullscreenA tourist with a guide in the Sierra Norte. Photograph: Chico Sanchez/AlamyEric’s company, Zapotrek, is one of a handful of trusted operators based in Oaxaca City that have developed partnerships with the mountain people
Booking secures permission to access the community
represented by a local chaperone for the duration of the trip
a laser eye for flora and a hunger for wasp larvae
He seems in no rush to complete his year of community service
we spend two days padding along gorgeous forest paths
and watch wild horses gallop on wide green plains
A gentle flow of visitors get sylvan splendour
That money is divided equally and has bought bigger
it has allowed more people to stay in the communities they were born to
Economic gravity still drags young people to the cities
And despite the old distortions – the colonial invasions
prejudice against the Zapotec language – and more recent globalism
an ancient way of life adapts and carries on
View image in fullscreenTourists hike on a trail between La Neveria and Latuvi
Photograph: Jim West/AlamyThis really matters
in the coffee shops of Roma Norte or La Condesa
It’s as if Florencio could stop in his tracks
and to walk in them is to enter a pharmacy
View image in fullscreenJames Gingell enjoys the local hospitality
Photograph: James GingellWhen I come down from the mountains my eyes are wider
I’m on an empty jetty facing the lagoon of Chacahua
All the surfers and hippies are elsewhere; all the fishermen are hard at work
a sandbar appears 10 metres away; I wade to it with the low amber sun marbling in the cool water
a flock of gulls gather and discuss their day in paradise
demon eyes leer out and a night heron appears with a meal in its mouth
then divebomb so close I can see the fish squirm down their gullets
the shallow boats chug back with the swordfish for dinner
stretching forward to the huts with their palm roofs
The human prints wind together with those of other animals
and the tiny bores made by skittering crabs
Everything weaves on and on down the shore until disappearing into darkness
Zapotrek offers cycling and hiking trips from one day up to a week. A guided two-day hike for two, including taxi collection and return to Oaxaca City (two hours each way), all meals and a night in a cabin is £240pp
Unesco-listed wonders and delicious cuisine
The jewel in its crown is the state capital of Oaxaca City
as rich in color as it is culture with a self-aware sophistication that belies its gritty underbelly
Oaxaca is famed for its rich craft heritage
For guaranteed quality pieces by local artists
head to the Instituto Oaxaqueño de las Artesanías (also known as Aripo)
It’s as much a cultural center as an arts and craft store where you can browse work from all over Oaxaca state – from embroidered fabrics to earthenware
They host regular workshops – and everything you buy helps support the artistic community
Mardoz / Shutterstock Jardín Tours Oaxaca’s wealth of flora has been curated and concentrated into the fabulous Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca
You can stroll through a collection of almost a thousand plant species in this beautifully laid-out botanical garden
each native to the state from its cold mountains to humid tropics
It’s set in the serene grounds of an old convent and also dotted with pieces of contemporary sculpture
Guided tours take around an hour and are available in English
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Try on this superb textile museum on for size Museum
You don’t need to be particularly interested in threads to enjoy this excellent Museo Textil de Oaxaca exploring the history and traditions of Oaxacan dress and beyond
Thousands of pieces are spread between nine permanent exhibitions
To get more out of the experience you can arrange a one-hour guided tour in your language
There’s also an excellent crafts shop onsite if you fancy picking up a souvenir
Heading to the zócalo (main square) when the day cools to stroll
sit and shoot the breeze is a national pastime among Mexicans – and Oaxacans are no different
its official name is La Plaza de la Constitución and is the perfect spot to soak up the city’s inimitable atmosphere
Together with neighboring Alameda de León park
it hosts regular markets and lively events
Step into the adjacent cathedral to cool off under ornate vaulted ceilings and baroque treasures
Set on the leveled-off mountaintop just outside the city
Monte Albán is the must-see Zapotec site combining exemplary Zapotec architecture with superb panoramic vistas
Located just outside the Monte Albán Archeological Zone is also a museum that charts the history of these ancient people through an impressive collection of objects
Sip and sample some of the state’s smoky spirit Winery
you’re likely to encounter bartenders who know the spirit inside-out
a mezcal margarita is a deliciously smoky take on the original
@tiavidal / Unsplash If you’ve overdone it on the mezcal the night before
the fastest way to feel better is with a temazcal
This traditional Mesoamerican version of the sauna used to be part of a curative ceremony
and is still a great way to cleanse and detox
water is poured over heated stones together with seasonal herbs and fruits
The Ceviarem Temazcal – just out of town – is one of the best places to give it a go
The Best Trips and Tours in Mexico Historical Landmark
Michael Potts F1 / Shutterstock Book Your Trip to Mexico Mexico is one of the most exciting countries in North America
with its lively city streets brimming with culture
music and some of the best street food you’ll find anywhere
But it’s also a country of fascinating history and amazing natural wonders
with Aztec and Mayan temples found right next to mystical cenotes
A dyed-in-the-wool Londoner now firmly rooted among the cobbled streets of old town Palma de Mallorca
left a piece of himself in Mexico some time in the last millennium and had a previous existence touring the world with a band you've probably never heard of
See & Do 16 Must Visit Attractions in Guadelejara
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Explore our Food Tours →
a result of its geography: a big valley formed by small ones
aging and melting together to become something new over the heat of the fire
Oaxaca’s best restaurants are firmly rooted in this unique geography and layered history of the state
food is more than just sustenance; it’s a living link to the past and an expression of community – and it’s a source of immense pride
From the foundational significance of corn
To highlight this profound connection between land
our local team has rounded up their essential spots in the city
the thick corn tortillas of memelas are our favorite Oaxacan breakfast
This small stall doesn’t have an official name – people just started referring to it this way since it’s located right behind the Iglesia de San Agustín
But it’s become a beloved destination for delicious versions of its namesake dish
memelas – essentially thick corn tortillas that are pinched around the edges and in the middle
making the texture slightly uneven so that their toppings (and their juices) stay in place – are topped with pork lard
Felix Monterroza is the fourth generation to make and sell mezcal
a mezcal brand and expendio (a place where they both serve and sell mezcal
and another name for a mezcalería) that has sold a wide variety of high-quality mezcales since 2008
It’s not entirely clear why El Carmen Alto is a street-food hub
but it’s probably related to the fact that
the Plaza del Carmen used to host a weekly open-air market where people from all over the Oaxaca Valley would bring their produce
This market turned out to be so popular that it eventually moved into a permanent building
both foods and drinks are centered around corn
a tendency that’s most evident in Mexico’s wide assortment of antojitos
or “little cravings,” which vary impressively across the country’s 32 states
tri-cornered antojito hailing from the state’s westernmost region of the Mixteca
And at Obispo Cocina Rural restaurant in Oaxaca’s peaceful San Felipe neighborhood
two of the best Mixtecan traditions come together on one plate: tetelas and barbacoa
There are some foods that have the power transport us to other states of mind and can even make us reflect upon the cycle of life itself
This is the case of both chocolate and mole
as two of the most important and ceremonial foods in Oaxaca
represent a ritual journey from seed to table in which vital – and sacred – ingredients like cacao
co-owner of the El Rito family business and head chocolatier of Reina Negra Chocolate
wakes up every day with the goal to keep chocolate and mole evolving and resurrecting with the same passion the Mayans put into the preservation of their myths
It is 6:30 pm – the workday of most of the taco
quesadilla and memela vendors in the city is over
Caleb Santiago sets up his food cart and by 7 pm
he is ready for another night of juicy hamburgers and hot dogs
Among all the late-night hamburger stalls sprawled across the city
It was loud enough in the gymnasium to make one’s eardrums hurt
many decked out in the red and white colors representing the town of San Juan Atepec
Spectators overflowed from the bleachers onto the concrete steps and the hardwood floor
10 men from the Oaxacan mountain towns of San Juan Atepec and Natividad took fadeaway jumpers
and dove for loose balls like their village’s honor depended on it
This was the championship of La Copa Benito Juárez
Just some 6,000 players and fans from the basketball-crazed mountains of the Sierra Juárez
trekking to the Zapotec hamlet of Guelatao de Juárez
Draining three-pointers and sprinting cross-court for Eurostep layups
the competitors in the men’s and women’s Open category—open to people of all ages—hoop at a level around NCAA standards
“Basketball starts for us at a really young age,” said Cristian Brian Caballero Bautista
standing in the middle of the arena minutes after his team won La Copa
“It’s inculcated in us.”
The players from each town—who themselves range from 6 years old in the Chupon category to 50 years and up in the Master category—travel with gangs of porristas
somewhere between cheerleaders and groupies
and make all kinds of noise to remind their representatives that they have a village behind them
all the way up to the windy road that hugs the mountains and brings visitors to the Gimnasio Benito Juárez
where the cup’s premier games are played
Most of Mexico is known for its rabid love of soccer
“Now it actually helps contribute to their separateness,” said Jorge Santiago, a Pittsburgh-based photographer who grew up in Guelatao and has been documenting Serrano basketball for around 15 years
We are different from the rest of Mexico.” Santiago also said that basketball was one of the only pastimes available to him during his youth
Gonzalo Edmundo Méndez Hernández
who helped found La Copa Benito Juárez
sat in his house nestled into the hills of Guelatao the day before the tournament
there aren’t huge spaces for playing other sports.”
No huge flat spaces, that is. Regulation NBA basketball courts are about 1/16th the size of a FIFA soccer field—just small enough to nestle into the hills of the Sierra Juárez, a cluster of districts in the Sierra Norte mountain range that slashes across the state of Oaxaca. Throughout the region, locals host dances, weddings, and political meetings on the paved courts
Guelatao de Juárez is located at an altitude of about 6,000 feet, a 1.5-hour winding drive north of Oaxaca City
and the town boasts an idyllic pond near its center known as the “Enchanted Lagoon.” (Guelatao comes from the Zapotec word Yela-too
But the pueblo is most famous for being the birthplace of Benito Juárez
Mexico’s first Indigenous president and a trailblazing reformer
in the weeks leading up to Juárez’s March 21 birthday
and—the biggest draw of all—the championship of La Copa Benito Juárez
President Claudia Sheinbaum paid Guelatao a visit
The hilly Zapotec village, which in 2020 had a population of 657
transforms to accommodate the deluge of visitors
all of whom get to enjoy the festivities for free
The municipality contracts 41 cooks to prepare delicious breakfast
and dinner for an estimated 2,500 diners at the town’s complimentary canteen
Cooks from across the region sell their wares throughout the rest of Guelatao
In a food-filled plaza near the town’s center
dripping roast goat barbacoa along with bowls of its rich consommé
The narrow mountain pass leading to the tournament’s central gymnasium is lined with food stalls
A group of women by the arena’s entrance make moist
smokey tacos de mole negro good enough to make a food writer wax poetic
“Una convivencia más que una competencia.”
Gonzalo Edmundo Méndez Hernández lives near the center of Guelatao
on a street so steeply curved that a right turn from his front door guarantees a mild workout
His large house has a verdant garden and a long patio that leads to his wife’s restaurant
where she prepares a mean mole rojo and other Oaxacan dishes
Born in Guelatao in 1949, Méndez has spent much of his life teaching music locally and in Santa Ana, California
he was a serious hooper through childhood and early adulthood
He’s now working on a book about the history of Serrano basketball and La Copa Benito Juárez
Méndez traces the history of Serrano basketball back to boarding schools for Indigenous youth that President Lázaro Cárdenas helped start in the 1930s
its small courts suited the local terrain of mountains
flanked by bookshelves and a hefty accordion case
Méndez recounted how this basketball-enamored town founded the region’s largest basketball tournament
from the nearby Zapotec town of Capulalpam de Méndez
commissioned a silver cup bearing Benito Juárez’s likeness from artisans in Mexico City
and donated it to Guelatao with the idea of creating the first Copa de Benito Juárez
Leaders from the region gathered to organize the competition and selected Méndez to lead the process
was “to unify the pueblos through sports
while honoring Benito Juárez on his birthday.”
Bringing together the people of the Sierra Juárez is not a simple task
The high peaks and thick forest in this 660-square-mile mountain range separated people from one another for thousands of years
contributing to a patchwork of cultural diversity
Each of these groups represents a family of multiple languages
with Zapotec containing a whopping 62 distinct tongues
This means that people from two Zapotec towns might speak different languages
but will still be able to understand each other
Some of the region’s communities have had long-standing territorial disputes that sometimes flare up into violence
the Sports Committee bars them from attending the Cup
But both Gonzalo Méndez and one of the tournament’s commentators
said that relations between pueblos were more peaceable here than in other parts of the state
“The Sierra Juarez is very unified,” said Fanny García Hernández
Guelatao’s councilwoman in charge of sports
“We view problems of other communities as our own
That’s how we identify as Serranos.”
and players all say that the Cup helps promote a convivencia
between the Sierra Juárez’s diverse peoples
lost in the Open-category finals to Atepec
then woke up early the next morning to run a sporting event for children with Down’s syndrome
He reflected on the previous day’s competition with pride
“It doesn’t matter who wins or loses,” he said
“Es una convivencia más que una competencia.” It’s a coexistence more than a competition
acquaintances that you don’t see all year round
you get to see in Guelatao,” he added
other communities.” People drive for as much as six hours over snaking mountain roads to get to Guelatao from other towns
Oaxaca is the second-poorest state in Mexico
and many people have left the Sierra Norte for other parts of Mexico and the United States
a third-generation descendant of someone born there
many pueblo’s teams are composed of people who don’t live there
and who meet up in the weeks and months before La Copa Juárez to train
The towns’ emigrants also donate money to help their home teams buy jerseys and charter transportation
said that during the Cup’s early years
Oaxacans who had emigrated to the United States would come back to Guelatao to hoop
along with worsening conditions in Northern Mexico
made it difficult for players to travel back and forth across the border
an entire generation of Oaxacans has had children in the States who are U.S
citizens and can easily return to play in the Cup
the epicenter of the Oaxacan-American community
players compete in Oaxacan basketball leagues
which include tournaments organized by hometown—each one like a mini Copa Juárez
chatted in easy English with his cousins at a food stall near the central gymnasium
to represent their parents’ and grandparents’ hometown
Though Quero normally plays guard in the United States
Quero said that his parents have always been too busy working to play basketball
but that they raised him with a love of the game
We’re doing it for our family,” he said
“I want to win as many of these tournaments as I can for them
you know?” He and his cousins participated in their first Copa a few years ago
His parents cried when they heard the news
Though La Copa Benito Juárez casts a wide net for participants
Méndez campaigned to add a female category to the tournament
there are women athletes in every age group except for the two oldest ones
Veterans (40 and up) and Masters (50 and up)
At a presentation for a magazine about La Copa
a biologist and Indigenous rights activist
cited a Facebook post in which someone wrote
“The first time a women’s team from my community went to La Copa Benito Juárez
I remember someone from my community saying
You should stay in our pueblo and make tortillas or something.’”
Standing outside the arena with a group of porristas from San Juan Tabá
said that she grew up with a strict curfew
and that her parents told her that a woman’s place is in the home
it has been men more than women who have benefitted from the convivencia promoted by the Cup
that’s all going away now,” she said
holding a wooden rattle that she had twirled throughout her pueblo’s match in the afternoon
and they let us be out here screaming!”
“The girls today grow up with more connections between pueblos
and get to know each other.” This year
her 17-year-old daughter competed in the Cup
For sisters Elisa and Michelle Águilar from Ixtlan
Outfitted in their town’s green and black jerseys
they spoke with easy confidence outside the stadium before they had to begin their warm-up for the championship match
“Basketball has been the key to opportunity for us
Not only has it allowed us to study; it has also helped us to meet people from all over,” Elisa said
Elisa decided to take a break from professional basketball so she could focus on representing Ixtlan in La Copa Juárez with her sister
“We prefer to play here,” she said
“Even if more professional opportunities come.”
the sisters showed what chemistry and months of 6 a.m
practices can do: With a bunch of smooth jump shots
they led their team to victory over Tagayu
Gonzalo Méndez sat at a table on his covered patio with his friend Aldo González Rojas
who helped organize the tournament last year
was reflecting on the colossal task of hosting hundreds of teams and thousands of visitors at a basketball smackdown in this tiny town
Let’s start a regional tournament,’ people won’t be able to do it
Because it depends on making decisions in a collective manner.’”
González Rojas is the former president of Guelatao
a position that lasts one and a half years and includes no salary
he wasn’t making decisions alone—he had to consult with the Sports Council
a body made up of representatives from all of the towns involved in the tournament
The council has a precedent in the communal assemblies that govern the vast majority of Oaxaca’s more than 10,000 communities. Guelatao-born anthropologist Jaime Martinez Luna uses the term comunalidad to describe what he calls “the central concept of Oaxacan life”: one that values the collective over the individual and sees people and nature as interconnected
people take on duties in town—like that of community security
or topil—out of obligation to the collective
Almost all of the tournament’s major services—cleaning
and even coaching—are done as comisiones
a truly massive undertaking for thousands of hungry guests
The organizers have refused corporations’ offers to sponsor things like water and beer
This is ours,’” said González Rojas
in the moments after Atepec’s victory over Natividad
fans emptied out into the star-lit mountain pass and made their way to the center of town
The Oaxacan public broadcast station interviewed players
and young admirers posed for photos with their favorite athletes
cheerful but not yet retired for the night
“I still have a comisión to take care of!” he said
If you were to look past the basketball players and the beaming fans
sweeping up the debris of a hard fought-game
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Department: Latin American and Iberian Cultures
Director: For more information contact Professor Sarah Portnoy at portnoy@usc.edu
(Students will spend the last few days on Zoom completing the final project and presentations)
(Students will spend 4 days in Los Angeles learning about L.A.’s Oaxacan communities and 3 weeks in Mexico (4 days in Mexico city exploring the Templo Mayor
the city center and 16 days in Oaxaca visiting mountains
is one of Mexico’s most culturally and biologically diverse states
Students visiting this region will experience a vibrant mix of traditions
with sixteen indigenous languages spoken alongside Spanish
The state’s ecosystems range from mountainous highlands and tropical jungles to coastal areas
Exploring Oaxaca means engaging with its traditional and street art
and visiting archaeological sites that reveal the deep history of its indigenous civilizations
Students will also have the unique opportunity to interact with indigenous communities
gaining insight into their traditional forms of cooking
Oaxaca’s fusion of ancient and contemporary cultures
provides a dynamic setting for students to explore art
Students will also experience a hands-on cooking class
paint their own animal figurines and hike a sacred mountain
CLICK HERE to view the tentative syllabus or the one from the previous program
but an intermediate level of Spanish (SPAN 240) is strongly encouraged since many of the speakers do not speak any English
*Application & Google Form Deadline: Monday
the LAIC Program Information Google Form and the Dornsife Faculty Led Programs Application in order to complete the application process
1. CLICK HERE to access the LAIC Program Information Google Form for 2025
2. CLICK HERE to access the USC Dornsife Faculty Led Programs Application
This is a class open to all undergraduate students and all majors
Graduate students are ineligible to apply. Progressive students must contact the FLP office for eligibility prior to applying (flp@dornsife.usc.edu)
Clearance of SPAN 240 or equivalent by the end of fall is required
If students have not taken any Spanish courses at USC
or learned Spanish at home or by other means
please contact program director directly to see if they meet the language criteria
CLICK HERE to access the flyer
Estimated Costs (Excluding Spring Tuition)
you may need to scroll left to right to see the costs
*Housing and breakfast with a local family
Note: Students should wait to purchase airline tickets until instructed to do so
as courses may be canceled due to unforeseen circumstances
PLEASE NOTE: A $500 non-refundable deposit is due upon student acceptance of a Maymester course
This deposit will be charged to the student’s account on or just after 1/24 and applied to the housing/program fee or refunded to student account on or just after 4/15
While most spring courses allow for an add/drop period
Maymester courses require immediate commitment due to travel arrangements and budgeting
Copyright © 2025 University of Southern California
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253-535-7411
events@plu.edu
What happens when classroom learning meets real-world experience
For a group of Pacific Lutheran University nursing students
the answer came in the form of a personally and professionally meaningful journey to Oaxaca
The Social Determinants of Health in Oaxaca study away program, led by Professor Carrie Ann Matyac
and geographical factors influencing healthcare access in Mexico – an experience that will shape their futures as healthcare providers
This annual program is connected to PLU’s nursing curriculum
allowing students to apply their clinical knowledge in a global setting
By engaging with diverse healthcare practices and addressing health disparities firsthand
students expand their understanding of patient care beyond the classroom and traditional hospital settings
the most significant benefit is the chance to explore and gain a deeper appreciation for another culture
“I hope they walk away from this experience seeing healthcare through a new lens – one that helps guide their future personal and professional decisions.”
This unique program combines academic exploration with community engagement
students explored cultural offerings in Mexico and conducted health screenings and educational encounters in schools
the program was an opportunity to step outside of her comfort zone while strengthening her clinical skills and patient care
“One of the biggest takeaways was seeing firsthand how economic struggles
and cultural influences limit access to healthcare and directly impact families,” Hindman shared
The program was made possible through key partnerships with local healthcare professionals and community leaders
and the municipal council in Teotitlán del Valle
all of whom helped organize health fairs and cultural exchanges
for playing an instrumental role in coordinating these connections and ensuring a meaningful experience for both students and the communities they served
She also noted that their participation could not have happened without the help of their translators: Armando Robles Caballero
Matyac emphasized that while students provided essential health screenings
“I think it’s vital to recognize that our students gained far more than they gave
The kindness and generosity of the Oaxacan people never ceases to amaze me
They welcome us into their lives and their homes without hesitation.”
I will graduate with a stronger understanding of the biological
and political factors that impact community healthcare access,” Hindman said
“This experience will forever shape how I advocate
Students traveled thousands of miles from campus and brought back something invaluable – a deeper understanding of the world and their place in it as future healthcare providers
“The program reflects PLU’s culture of service and care,” notes Matyac
With enthusiastic invitations to return to Oaxaca next year
the impact of this experience will continue to grow
both for the students and the communities they serve
Gracie Hansen ’25 turns a calling into action with a social work degree at 20
Senior Justinpal Singh’s heart for service
Pacific Lutheran University Receives Over $1.9 Million to Enhance Energy Efficiency and Sustainability
A front-row seat to democracy: student Cady Wood interns with the Speaker of the House in Olympia
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“The markets capture what is beautiful about Oaxaca,” he tells Condé Nast Traveler from his home in Mexico City
“Even though seasons are not as pronounced here in Mexico as they are elsewhere in North America
you will see all these variations of vegetables and different kinds of herbs that make up the region’s cuisine.”
What was the first thing you ate when you got off the plane
He moved back to Oaxaca five or six years ago
and opened this small restaurant inside his family’s house
They work only with heirloom products from Oaxaca
and cook with whatever they find at the market
which means they don't have a long menu
and are stuffed with a few threads of pork or chicken
They also have this amazing tichinda tamale
too: Jorge's wife curates a lot of artisanal ceramics
and there are always some textiles and tableware to buy
I love having breakfast at Casa Oaxaca hotel
where I usually stay if I’m not at Casa Criollo because
The hotel is right across the street from the Santo Domingo Church
and it has one of the most beautiful interior patios in the city
Just five or six tables and a menu that changes all the time
it’s like a verbal list of things that they cook that day
where they’re usually served with red or green salsa along with freshly made tortillas and
smoked meat that is just quickly grilled over charcoal
a nice glass of whatever juice is available—there are so many varieties of mangoes
and oranges here—and maybe a coffee or a hot chocolate with water
In Mexico, Chef Enrique Olvera Is Doubling Down on His Commitment to Local FarmersWith Mexico's artisanal produce under threat
the country's top chef is prioritizing his commitment to small farms—to the benefit of diners
And your most anticipated meal—and how was it
One of my favorite chefs is Thalia [Barrios García], who has a restaurant called La Cocina de Humo
where she uses comals [clay pans] to prepare a set menu
with lots of different bites from the region [within Oaxaca] where she is from
She’s not doing a fixed menu of the classics
She is also very good at guisados—braised meats with chiles—so I’m always looking forward to those
And she does this salad with heirloom tomatoes
I think that’s one of the most beautiful dishes that she makes
And you can always stop somewhere and have a quesadilla—just make sure that the quesillo is fresh
Most of the restaurants here tend to be laid back
There’s actually been a lot of very heated conversations about whether Mexican regional cuisines can be performed in fine dining
it’s more about the hospitality and the execution
It’s more about what's happening on the plate than the luxury of the space or the fanciness of the experience
One dish very close to my heart is a tlayuda
Alejandro Ruiz from Casa Oaxaca makes one with all the insects from Oaxaca—the worms and the chicatana ant and the grasshoppers
The chicatana ants taste a little bit like beef jerky and a little bit of coffee; they have this fermented soil taste
The grasshoppers are normally a little bit spicy
because they are roasted with chiles and garlic
Then the worms… I personally think they're really smoky and more fatty
The best dessert in Oaxaca is fruit in peak season
The mangos here taste so much better than regular mangoes in Mexico City
but as a snack I’ll add a little chile and salt
Well, I’m always traveling back with mezcal. Most of the good mezcal is produced in very small [batches]. So if you find a mezcal that you like, buy a bottle, because you probably won't see it again. And I like to buy seeds from some of the markets if I can. That way I can plant them in my garden and get them forever.
After a 25-year hiatus, the city of Oaxaca’s spring festival, now renamed the Rodolfo Morales Spring Festival
is set to return as part of the city’s upcoming 493rd anniversary celebration
the festival will feature more than 50 activities
exhibitions and family-friendly events — all with free admission
Organized under the auspices of the state’s Ministry of Culture and Arts (Seculta), the festival pays tribute to the renowned Oaxacan painter Rodolfo Morales, who dedicated his life to preserving the state’s heritage and traditions. Morales died in 2001.
“This is a very broad festival, in which we celebrate the arts, culture, music and sports,” Oaxaca de Juárez Mayor Raymundo Chagoya Villanueva said. “We kick off on April 20 with a 10-kilometer race. There will be artists giving free concerts in the public squares of Oaxaca, which is considered one of the country’s 11 heritage cities.”
The impact of the Rodolfo Morales Spring Festival isn’t expected to be that large
Officials are projecting a total of 50,000 visitors and an economic impact of more than 100 million pesos (US $5 million)
tourism declines sharply after Easter,” Chagoya Villanueva noted
alluding to the holiday that falls on Sunday
“This event is specifically intended to attract this occupancy in both hotels and restaurants.”
Among the highlights are two major free concerts at the Alameda de León: the cumbia band Los Ángeles Azules (winners of a 2024 Latin Grammy lifetime achievement award) on April 25, and Molotov (winners of a 2003 Latin Grammy for their politically charged “Frijolero” video) on April 28
Additional performances will include the Oaxaca Symphony Orchestra
emphasized the festival’s role in celebrating Oaxaca’s cultural magnificence and fostering community spirit
linking pre-Hispanic customs with contemporary urban life
which used to be known simply as the Spring Festival
was an annual event in Oaxaca City before being discontinued some 25 years ago
though official records do not cite a reason
the festival was renamed for Rodolfo Morales
For more information, visit the festival website or download the full program from this Seculta website.
With reports from Excélsior, Milenio and Quadratin
food has been a shelter and a source of comfort and healing
From tacos that put us at ease with their tender meats and flavorful salsas
to drinks that cooled us down and helped us sharpen our weary minds
A little space that feels familiar despite its very recent opening
La Frijolería specializes in all things beans
which are one of the ultimate comfort foods in our cuisine
it was hard to find a restaurant in town where beans were served as anything other than a side dish
But now our cravings can rest assured that they will be fulfilled
and we can find them presented in at least five different ways
all brimming with flavors and served in large portions
the ladies behind this comfort-food powerhouse
have offered us classics such as black beans with chocoyotes and hierba de conejo – corn dumplings and rabbits’ herb – or black beans slow-cooked with pig’s feet
All the beans are served with a generous portion of cheese
The combos include fresh fruit water and the delicious dessert of the day
also inspired in vintage Oaxacan dessert recipe books
like nicuatole (corn jelly); arroz con leche (milky rice); and natilla (vanilla custard with raisins)
For the last 20 years Tacomiendo has been the locals’ ally for a nighttime taco fix
we would simply walk a few blocks to find the restless taqueros spinning the trompo al pastor
After an intense work session or after party; whether it was 8 p.m.
Tacomiendo tacos and its flavorful horchata water stood strong with every passing season
Drinks and botanas at La Niña de las Caguamas
There are times for warm comfort but also times for sweet joy
and La Niña de las Caguamas has become the ideal place for sipping iced cold beers
micheladas – a mix of salsas and beers – classic cocktails
Caguamas are one-liter bottles of beer that are meant to be enjoyed among a group or
Regardless of the speed and amount of drinking
caguamas usually stand for party and celebration
LNDLC serves large beers but also regular-sized ones
and from the hot summer up through Oaxaca’s warm fall afternoons
we enjoyed sitting under the umbrellas in their fresh patio and never tired of their michelada clásica
a mix of beer and red salsas served in a glassed rimmed with chamoy syrup and sesame seeds
places where every round of beer is served with a particular snack – LNDLC never left us hungry
Besides the tasty botanas – which range from green mole bowls to ceviche tostadas – LNDLC also has a short but succinct menu of wings
tiritas de pescado (fish cooked in lime juice)
and tacos that perfectly match their concoctions
As it’s located in the semi-residential neighborhood of Colonia Reforma
LNDLC is a perfect place for late-brunching away from the busy downtown streets
Although we almost never got tired of tacos
there were some moments when our palates called for a respite
La Cevichería became an oasis when the sun
The menu is diverse without being pretentious: the right number of tacos
plus an interesting offer of flavored waters and cocktails
Cecilia Hernandez and Irving Zuñiga’s ability to fuse the strong flavors of Oaxacan Valley’s native cuisine with the tricky simplicity of seafood was one of our most rewarding culinary moments of the year
The dishes at La Cevichería are like a kaleidoscope that kept changing as we ate them – as soon we started to detect the baroque textures of
avocado leaves and smoky chintextle (chile paste)
and fresh mahi mahi quickly took us by surprise
All the dishes are served with a generous relish of native greens like purslane
which gave us the perfect balance of health and fun with every bite
And although there are other places running with the same name
this is the very first and authentic Cevichería
paving the way to more exciting ways of preparing fish and seafood. La Cevichería was
one of the most outstanding finds of this year
and with their new location starting up and running in March
it will continue as one of the freshest spots in town for time to come
2024 was also a year that called for elixirs; nurturing drinks that provided strength and clarity
a line of mighty kombuchas in subtle yet powerful flavors: cardamom
All of them brought a different layer of refreshment and well-being
Pleyadiana Kombucha is a local brand strategically located for sourcing high-quality ingredients from the coast
the drinks are bottled and distributed in several organic food shops and restaurants across the city
The brand is also starting to explore other ingredients like yerba mate – the fermentation process and the natural spirit-lifting properties of mate give a nice pick-me-up for those who want to go beyond coffee
eating in Oaxaca seems to get better and better
with both street stands and brick-and-mortars upping the ante and further refining their craft in order to meet the discerning standard’s of the city’s diners
The list of favorite sips and snacks is an extensive and ever-growing one
but here are four that truly stood out for their freshness and quality in 2024
Lácteos Artesanales Yucuita’s perfect quesillo
If there was one food that could be described as emblematic of Oaxaca, it would be quesillo
an oozy cow’s milk cheese that’s folded into quesadillas; stuffed into the large
crispy dinner tortillas known as tlayudas; melted into queso fundido; and so much more
So typically Oaxacan that it’s called queso Oaxaca in other parts of Mexico
quesillo is strikingly similar in both flavor and texture to mozzarella
and in fact is thought to have originated in the region with the arrival of Italian Dominican friars in the 1500s
debates abound as to which local quesillo is the best
the tastiest one we’ve tried – bar none – is elaborated by Lácteos Artesanales Yucuita
completely artisanal operation located in the Mixteca region of Oaxaca
Yucuita obtains about 80 liters of milk daily
producing just six or seven kilos (about 14 pounds) of quesillo each day
Made totally by hand in the traditional manner
or in the mouth for a quick snack or appetizer
If you come to visit Oaxaca, one thing you can expect is the opportunity to slake your thirst with an enormous variety of indigenous coolers based on corn, often incorporating cacao and other delicious ingredients. From creamy tejate to frothy pozontle to smooth atole
these drinks boast thousands of years of tradition and delight the palate with their unique flavors
One beverage you’ll want to try here is pinole
a specialty of the forested Sierra Norte region served throughout the town of Ixtepeji
with a wonderful version available at barbacoa spot La Barbachería
Incorporating the toasted corn flour of the same name – an important source of nutrition for Mexicans throughout the ages – the drink consists of a plain corn atole (basically a thin corn gruel) as its base
the toasted corn pinole is ground with cinnamon
which have a neutral taste but boast a bright red color
This flavored and colored powder is stirred into water
whisked with a traditional wooden molinillo until super-frothy
pushing the bubbly red foam to the top of the bowl
the two elements combine into a creamy yet refreshing beverage that tastes as festive as it looks
a more recent addition to the ice cream menu
but they rarely satisfy when one is craving the creamy
luscious texture that only ice cream made with real cream can provide
Thankfully, on days when that type of craving hits, there’s El Rito
located on a busy thoroughfare smack-dab in the city’s historic center
A sliver of a store established in 2017 – seven years into the brand’s career slinging chocolate tablets for making traditional hot chocolate – El Rito offers artisanal chocolate bars
high-quality pastes for making the rich Oaxacan stews known as mole
But perhaps the store’s most beloved offering is its widely acclaimed chocolate ice cream: rich
and goes perfectly with El Rito’s crisp sugar cones – Lauren Rothman
when the summer rains end and the fall dry season begins
it’s time to celebrate the harvest of the milpa
the complementary system of growing corn alongside crops such as squashes
And it’s also time to enjoy some of these crops together in one bowl
which features the little corn masa dumplings known as chochoyotes
is a classic one that has been enjoyed at the restaurant since its opening in 1985
You won’t find it on the laminated diner-style menu
but those in the know are aware that it can be ordered any day of the year
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Will McGough writes about travel destinations and outdoor adventures.Follow AuthorApr 14
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#article-stream-0 .quote-embed .font-size p{font-size: 36px;}The Sierra Mixe region is less than two hours by car from Oaxaca City and offers a variety of landscapes
Oaxaca is best known for its mezcal and food scene
Visit downtown Oaxaca City and you’ll find no shortage of restaurants cooking up regional cuisine—highly revered by Mexicans and foreigners alike—and a mezcaleria on just about every corner
And with the city opening a flurry of new rooftops in recent years
it would be forgivable if you flew into Oaxaca and never left the city
for those wanting a deeper look into the area’s culture and natural side
the surrounding mountainous regions offer myriad opportunities for adventure and exploratory travel
One of note is a relatively new tourism partnership brewing in the Sierra Mixe region of Oaxaca
less than two hours from downtown Oaxaca City
small villages serve as homebases for hikes through various terrains
organized and guided by members of the Mixe people
Daily hikes include native hardwood forests
The Sierra Mixe of Oaxaca is a mountainous region blessed with biodiversity and various terrains
an indigenous group who still speak their own language (Mixe) and live a communal-based lifestyle in the high mountains
Previously, tourism to this region had been extremely limited or nonexistent. Now, a Mixe-owned tour operator, Raiz Ayuuk
is offering itineraries into the region and “collaborating with families and communities to develop responsible tourism infrastructure and services that respect and showcase the unique characteristics of the Mixe region.”
Jungle walks include beautiful views alongside the river
Private and public itineraries give visitors the chance to experience guided hikes through the countryside on multi-day jaunts
each day centered around visiting a different village
but the signature walk of the trip is the ascension of Zempoaltépetl
the most sacred mountain peak in the Sierra Mixe
where the journey to the top requires participation in many of the Mixe’s sacred rituals
The cultural experiences take place either in the home or workshop of the local artisan
and meals are eaten either in local restaurants or in the home of residents
a Mixe meal and ritual traditionally performed prior to planting a new corn crop
A Mixe woman prepares memelas for the traditional Machucado meal
There are an estimated 90,000 Mixe people living across 19 communities in the Sierra Mixe mountains
While the modern-day lifestyle has certainly changed since ancient times
the Mixe people still maintain a strong connection to their traditional lifestyle and values
day-to-day life is still largely dependent upon the local cultivation of crops
Each local community governs itself via its own political system
known as the “cargo system,” where community members volunteer to serve one-year terms
The Mixe are a historically tough people who were never conquered by the Spanish
despite most of Oaxaca succumbing to Spanish rule
The Mixe had two things on their side: Their mountainous terrain and unending spirit
the [Mexican] natives serve without complaint
[the] Zapotecas and Mixes,” wrote the Conquistador Hernán Cortés to King Charles V in the 16th century
“Their land is so rocky that it cannot be crossed even on foot
for I have twice sent people to conquer them
who were unable to do so because of the roughness of the terrain
and because the warriors are very fierce and well armed.”
Though natural and cultural tours have become more popular since the pandemic
Alcantara emphasizes that everything guests will experience in the Mixe region—from the lifestyle to the cultural rituals—is authentic
“I’m just doing it the way my father taught me to do it
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Ancestral Mexican flavors that feed the soul
With a colorful history across its eight regions
Core to these deep food traditions are the women who make mole
these four chefs bring diners a taste of traditional Mexican recipes alongside innovative new flavors.
Levadura de Olla Restaurante (One Star)Chef Thalía Barrios Garcia (2024 Mexico Young Chef Award)
Chef Thalía Barrios Garcia was selling tamales
Her grandmothers noticed her remarkable talent
proceeding to teach Barrios everything they knew about making mole
One grandmother was in charge of making mole de fiesta for weddings and celebrations
preparing for three months to serve 1,000 people at a time
“women are the ones in charge of making moles
You couldn't have celebrations without these women.”
her restaurant Levadura de Olla (“yeast pot”) is set in an 18th century home made of blue-green stone and wood
decorated with local plants and clay pottery.
The menu is divided into four sections: typical Oaxacan
She not only preserves timeless mole recipes passed down from her ancestors
but she also experiments with new approaches inspired by her French culinary training
ancestral beverages include tepache (fermented pineapple)
Barrios works with small-scale farmers from her hometown for maize (corn)
beans and pumpkins grown in high elevations
she skillfully highlights the complex flavors of mole to allow each of the many ingredients to shine
“you can get really creative in exploring the options that one ingredient has and push the limits of what you can do.”
Tierra del Sol (Bib Gourmand)Chef Olga Cabrera
“Everybody deserves to eat well,” begins chef Olga Cabrera
Proud of her mestiza (mixed indigenous and European) heritage
she “combines pre-Hispanic ingredients with modern techniques.” Those ingredients are grown using a traditional milpa crop system: maize (corn)
Cabrera learned how to make mole tres generaciones (three generation mole)
She describes it as a mole de fiesta (party mole)
Her mole can be paired with guajolote (turkey)
and guests can also choose other color options made with different types of chilies
and main restaurant are primarily run by women
they get together in the same kitchen talking about their lives and having mezcal
La Olla (Bib Gourmand)Chef Pilar Cabrera
“Mole for me means fiesta,” begins chef Pilar Cabrera
“My first experience with mole was with my grandma
named after a ceramic pot used to cook beans
her team prepares 25 kilos of mole per month
with over 30 ingredients including the chilhuacle negro (ancient black) chile
Cabrera also prepares mole in other colors like green and yellow
she adds in a variety of ingredients such as sesame seeds
she even offers a corn oil substitute for pork lard
Inspired by talented women in her life who taught her how to make mole
Cabrera aims to pass down those same traditions
she opened her cooking school right inside her home
welcoming guests from around the world to learn more
she dedicates time to train the next generation of female chefs
“most of the staff I have right now are single women
working in the afternoon and caring for the children in the morning.”
Las Quince Letras (Bib Gourmand)Chef Celia Florián
Las Quince Letras has spent 30 years honoring the recipes of her ancestors
Live saxophone melodies fill the restaurant
“It's a family space full of tradition and flavors that restore the soul and body
Our space feels like arriving at an Oaxacan home to eat local food prepared with love.”
Florián watched her “grandmother and mother toast the cocoa
she built her menu full of Oaxacan-grown corn
Fan favorites include the mole coloradito and almond stew
but the chef herself loves Chichilo negro “mole for mourning” (corn
These moles involve “deeply toasting the chilies and burning the seeds directly on fire until they turn into ashes
[resulting] in the elegant black color and the fine smoky flavor.”
Aiming to pass that ancestral knowledge to future generations
Florián founded the Association of Traditional Cooks
They are the master possessors of ancestral knowledge and are the ones who can ensure that this important gastronomic tradition continues to be passed down to future generations.”
Hero image: Ximena Fargas / Tierra del Sol
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Levadura de Olla Restaurante (One Star)Chef Thal\u00eda Barrios Garcia (2024 Mexico Young Chef Award)
Chef Thal\u00eda Barrios Garcia was selling tamales
\u201cwomen are the ones in charge of making moles
You couldn't have celebrations without these women.\u201d
her restaurant Levadura de Olla (\u201cyeast pot\u201d) is set in an 18th century home made of blue-green stone and wood
\u201cyou can get really creative in exploring the options that one ingredient has and push the limits of what you can do.\u201d
Tierra del Sol (Bib Gourmand)Chef Olga Cabrera
\u201cEverybody deserves to eat well,\u201d begins chef Olga Cabrera
she \u201ccombines pre-Hispanic ingredients with modern techniques.\u201d Those ingredients are grown using a traditional milpa crop system: maize (corn)
\u201cit\u2019s important to go to their homes
eat with them to know their families.\u201d
Preparing mole is an act of love.\u201d
La Olla (Bib Gourmand)Chef Pilar Cabrera
\u201cMole for me means fiesta,\u201d begins chef Pilar Cabrera
\u201cMy first experience with mole was with my grandma
the whole family cooking mole together.\u201d
\u201cmost of the staff I have right now are single women
working in the afternoon and caring for the children in the morning.\u201d
Las Quince Letras (Bib Gourmand)Chef Celia Flori\u00e1n
The life project of Chef Celia Flori\u00e1n, Las Quince Letras has spent 30 years honoring the recipes of her ancestors.
Live saxophone melodies fill the restaurant, housed in a century-old Oaxacan home. Flori\u00e1n begins, \u201cIt's a family space full of tradition and flavors that restore the soul and body. Our space feels like arriving at an Oaxacan home to eat local food prepared with love.\u201d
Growing up in the countryside, Flori\u00e1n watched her \u201cgrandmother and mother toast the cocoa, grind the maize on the metate, toast the chilies, and burn the seeds in the kitchen.\u201d
Under that inspiration, she built her menu full of Oaxacan-grown corn, beans, chili, wild greens, cocoa, mushrooms, edible flowers and insects. Fan favorites include the mole coloradito and almond stew, but the chef herself loves Chichilo negro \u201cmole for mourning\u201d (corn, herbs) and mole negro (chilies, grains, spices).
These moles involve \u201cdeeply toasting the chilies and burning the seeds directly on fire until they turn into ashes, [resulting] in the elegant black color and the fine smoky flavor.\u201d
Aiming to pass that ancestral knowledge to future generations, Flori\u00e1n founded the Association of Traditional Cooks. \u201cThe wisdom of the cooks is fundamental. They are the master possessors of ancestral knowledge and are the ones who can ensure that this important gastronomic tradition continues to be passed down to future generations.\u201d
Lizzie Ford-MadridSave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products and listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors
He has traveled the region in search of great bread and pastries—and the people making them
he shares one of many adventures that inspired the book
I walked into the small shop. The lighting was dim, but the display case was shining with baked loaves. A couple eagerly introduced themselves as Marcos and Marysol, the owners of this husband-and-wife operation, and began to tell me about the organic sourdough bread and pastries that they bake daily.
I’ve specialized in sourdough baking for the past 10 years, and I knew they were doing something unique in a city where most of the baked goods have long been made with commercial yeast. Sometimes, I find these people on my travels—other times they find me—and I'm always eager to hear how they've come to the craft I know and love.
For 10 years, Bryan Ford has focused on the art of sourdough bread—which has unsurprisingly led him to others who do the same, in every corner of Latin America.
Because Latin American culture is inherently welcoming—families will often open their doors to entertain, host, or feed others without giving it a second thought—they offered to take me to Marcos' hometown so I could see where it all began: in his parents' bakery. So the next day, the baking duo picked me up in an old red truck, as local news reports blared through the speakers.
We sped out of the crowded city to the countryside, where farms that yield everything from agave to artichokes peppered the landscape. We arrived in the village, with its beautiful Iglesia Zimatlán de Alvarez towering over the center of town and a flutter of small green, red, and, white flags in the main square, and we headed straight for the main market in search of a few ingredients: piloncillo, chile, and different cuts of meat that Marcos promised to grill for lunch.
The market was a treasure unto itself. Various shapes of piloncillo were gathered in bunches, there was fresh masa being made from blue and yellow corn, and pan dulce was piled high. Ingredients for mole, hanging from stalls and overflowing bins, were aromatic and enticing. But it was when we drove down a long, winding road, and reached a metal sign that said Levain Pan—the original, that is—that I knew we were in the right place.
Sweet breads, known as pan dulce, are popular at Mexican bakeries.
Pan de muerto is a typical Oaxacan bread often sold during October and November.
Their home doubles as the bakery, which perhaps explains how their work and identity have become so intertwined. When you live with bread—and the labor of love required to make it—that instinct to follow the scent is rooted in something instinctual. There, in the large kitchen, fresh ingredients were being chopped and ground for a meal; the living room was full of artesanías (handmade crafts commonly found in Mexico). Hints of sweet pan dulce permeated the air.
Marcos's parents have happily worked together in their home every day for 30 years: up early to bake loaves for the day, before transitioning into the mixing and shaping of breads for the following. They take frequent breaks to sip fresh Oaxacan coffee in the garden until nightfall, when it is time to sell—and they roll their truck out onto the streets as young families and workers getting off the job flock, like moths to the light, toward their glistening display.
It's special to see a family-run business enter a new world of baking, and even more so when traditions remain in the process. It's not an easy balance to strike, but it's one that represents the momentum of Latin America baking today. And it's stories like these that fuel the pastries and bread we all love to stumble upon when walking through a new city on a crisp morning.
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Oaxaca led the country for industrial growth in December 2024
marking the second consecutive month the historically underdeveloped southern state topped the list
The national statistics agency INEGI industrial development survey measures growth by state on a monthly and annualized basis
A recent survey found that Oaxaca topped the list of 19 Mexican states that experienced industrial growth in the last month of 2024
The data for December
indicates Oaxaca saw 18.8% growth compared to December 2023
Baja California Sur was third with 9.8% growth
Oaxaca was No. 1 in November as well
just above Guerrero (15.1%) and Baja California Sur (14.4%)
Manufacturing and construction drove Oaxaca’s December performance
The former climbed 19.9% compared to December 2023 while the latter rose 19.5%
The surge in these sectors offset negative numbers in mining (down 9.4%) and minimal energy sector growth (4.2%)
The CIIT project also includes 10 industrial development poles, as well as the expansion of “intermodal” infrastructure at the ports of Salina Cruz
The development poles — six of which are located in Oaxaca — consist of from 80 to 500 hectares of property used primarily to house industrial parks
Oaxaca’s Minister of Economic Development Raúl Ruiz Robles told El Economista that he anticipates the development poles in his state will attract more than 720 billion pesos (US $35.3 billion) in investment over the next six years
The government is also building a gas line that would serve both residential and industrial needs
a consultant and former president of Oaxaca’s College of Economics
In some instances, Indigenous communities have fought against the installation of wind farms
has limited the arrival of new manufacturing enterprises
With reports from El Economista and Revista Transportes y Turismo
known for its vibrant culture and as a prime tourist destination
the Metropolitan Area of Oaxaca has taken an important step by launching its Metropolitan Climate Action Plan
This extraordinary milestone brings together 26 municipalities in a unified effort to combat climate change
The effort to implement the plan is especially crucial
as the region—covering 692 km²—faces severe climate risks
the Metropolitan Area of Oaxaca experienced 121 disaster declarations and 118 emergencies
tropical cyclones and heavy rains caused losses amounting to USD 360 million
highlighting the urgency for effective actions to mitigate these risks
Why Cities Are Key to Addressing Climate Challenges
Cities are central to the climate mitigation and adaptation efforts in the region
The Oaxaca Metropolitan Climate Action Plan
representing a collaborative effort to address climate impacts on Oaxaca’s population
The Metropolitan Climate Action Plan’s goals are twofold: increasing climate resilience and achieving low-carbon development
An inventory of greenhouse gas emissions revealed that the transport
and stationary energy sectors account for 97 percent of total emissions
Oaxaca aims to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 36 percent
Adaptation efforts focus on achieving zero net deforestation
The Metropolitan Climate Action Plan aims to transform Oaxaca into a resilient, sustainable, and carbon-neutral metropolis by 2050, addressing critical challenges that require coordinated efforts across municipal boundaries. The plan includes:
Sustainable Mobility: Prioritizing public transportation and non-motorized travel
Efficient Energy Use: Promoting renewable energy and efficient practices
Advanced Waste Management: Improving solid waste separation
Sustainable Land Use: Promoting climate-smart agriculture and productive practices
The Metropolitan Climate Action Plan includes robust Monitoring
and Verification (MRV) systems for its initiatives
Oaxaca established the Metropolitan Climate Change Committee to oversee implementation
reinforcing the commitment of the 26 municipalities to tackle climate challenges collectively
The Metropolitan Climate Action Plan sets a new standard for urban climate action, demonstrating the power of collaboration and strategic planning. By uniting efforts across municipalities, Oaxaca is safeguarding its future and providing a model for other metropolitan regions facing similar challenges. As the world confronts climate change, Oaxaca's bold steps offer hope and inspiration.
This initiative is part of the World Bank ongoing support to cities across the Latin America and Caribbean region to outline their climate action goals and initiatives through the development of City Climate Action Plans
The Climate Investment Fund financed this technical assistance to Oaxaca
In addition to the Metropolitan Area of Oaxaca
the World Bank has supported Tulum and San Cristobal de las Casas (Mexico)
Santa Cruz de la Sierra and La Paz (Bolivia)
the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Area (Argentina) and Porto Alegre (Brazil) to advance their climate action planning frameworks
Thank you for choosing to be part of the Latin America and Caribbean community
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Líder del Programa de Desarrollo Sostenible para México
Located in the village of San Andrés Huayapam about 20 minutes east of the city
this charming indoor-outdoor restaurant serves personal renditions of traditional Oaxacan dishes by chef Micaela Ruiz Martinez
while her son mixes fabulous cocktails with mezcal produced by his family
Try one of the dishes featuring Oaxaca’s edible insects
such as a taco of avocado and deep-fried caterpillars called pochocuiles
or a pork shank braised in a rich spicy sauce that gets its funky umami from winged ants called hormigas
the rugged northwestern region shared by Oaxaca and the states of Puebla and Guerrero
has a spicy cuisine very different from the city’s sweetened colonial flavors
It’s showcased at this panoramic rooftop spot where chef-owner Olga Cabrera serves such rare Mixtecan dishes as the umami-rich mole del campo involving chapulines (grasshoppers) and chiles costeños
as well as a mole de laurel that she prepares with aromatic Mixtecan bay leaves
Next to the restaurant she also runs a fabulous bakery and a spot specializing in a pre-Hispanic drink called atole
In a patio worthy of a magical realist novel
chef-owner Deyanira Aquino serves dishes from her native Istmo de Tehuantepec
the slender finger of land between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean where the cooking is opulent with tropical produce and foreign influences from the region’s past as an important pre-Panama Canal trade route
a baroque-tasting “wedding” mole of pulled beef in a mind-bogglingly rich sauce of chiles
and pineapples that requires hours of continued stirring
A meal at chef Celia Florian’s iconic restaurant near the Baroque church of Santo Domingo de Guzman is both a sensual pleasure and an essential primer in Oaxacan flavors
A driving force behind Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca
an association of women who gather to exchange recipes from far-flung communities
Florian is an inspired cook with a preservationist bent renowned for her moles
Her epic mole negro is composed of more than 30 ingredients
A native of Oaxaca’s remote Sierra Sur region
chef Thalia Barrios is renowned for her food that combines inventive flourishes with deep ethnographic research in traditional villages
From the anthropological part of the menu one can order a complex mole de fiesta thickened with masa and served with crunchy pozole kernels
Dishes like the super-tender requesón (fresh cheese) tamal served with two moles star in the “creativo” side of the menu
Opened two years ago by the local chef Rafael Villalobos
who spent three years studying baking in Copenhagen
this is the city’s first bakery to work exclusively with wheat and rye grown in the state of Oaxaca
There’s much creativity in how Villalobos fuses traditions
with the orange blossom water-scented Mexican pan de muerto
Stewed with avocado leaves or epazote and served over rice, filling tamales or tortas or topping tlayudas, beans are indispensable in Oaxacan cuisine. They shine in this new legume-centric spot near Museo Rufino Tamayo where giant earthenware ollas (pots) hold different bean stews slow-cooked over a wood fire by Sagraria Carvajal
For a dish called “colágeno” she simmers black beans with gelatinous pigs feet until unctuous and collagen-rich—a popular Oaxacan hangover cure
The pair of earthenware comal griddles fueled by smoldering oak coals at this cult spot are weathered by use and impart a unique earthy smokiness to its quesadillas
That primaeval flavor of clay might be one reason why even in this city of endless street stands this one is always surrounded by crowds—including some of Oaxaca’s top chefs waiting their turn
Don’t miss the tacos with crumbly chorizo that’s warmed over coals under the comal
Located in a residential area east of the historic center
Mercado de la Merced is your perfect market for shopping
It’s both less daunting than the sprawling Central de Abastos and less touristy than the Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Oaxaqueños especially love this market in the morning
often stopping at various fondas (small restaurants) and stalls to seek out particular specialties
This remarkable restaurant located inside the family home of chef Jorge León and his mom Doña Elvia on the outskirts of town has all the ingredients of an underground indie hit
A veteran of such haute spots as Pujol in Mexico City
León explores Oaxaca’s complex terroir in his ultra-locavore tasting menus
His fish- and vegetable-forward dishes are inspired by daily jaunts to the massive Abastos market and by his relationships with local sustainable farmers and fishermen
In the mornings his mom prepares epic traditional breakfasts
is celebrated as the country’s “cradle of diversity.” Home to 16 Indigenous ethnic groups from Mixtecs to Triques to Zapotecs
it also boasts the country’s greatest biodiversity
over 30 native agave varieties distilled by some 600 mezcal-producing facilities
and some two-dozen native species of chiles and beans
is drawing record numbers of visitors these days for its cobblestoned streets and the arty graffiti
But the main draw is Oaxaca’s status as the culinary epicenter of Mexico for its dozens of mole varieties
an encyclopedia of corn masa-based antojitos—memelas
tamales—and a baroque layering of colonial-Spanish and pre-Hispanic Indigenous foodways
Local chefs understand that to be culinary authority here one must be part botanist and part anthropologist—roles which they embrace with great relish
Among the welcome recent developments to the restaurant scene has been the great rise of female chefs
as well as a new interest in cooking from the state’s different regions in addition to the complex colonial flavors of the Valles Centrales surrounding the capital
Whether you’re after unusual moles from the rugged Mixteca region
breads made exclusively from Oaxacan wheat
or a country lunch featuring edible insects
From a cult street taco stand to a Michelin-starred chef resurrecting forgotten dishes
The pair of earthenware comal griddles fueled by smoldering oak coals at this cult spot are weathered by use and impart a unique earthy smokiness to its quesadillas, empanadas, and tacos. That primaeval flavor of clay might be one reason why even in this city of endless street stands this one is always surrounded by crowds—including some of Oaxaca’s top chefs waiting their turn. Don’t miss the tacos with crumbly chorizo that’s warmed over coals under the comal.
Located in a residential area east of the historic center, Mercado de la Merced is your perfect market for shopping, gawking, and snacking. It’s both less daunting than the sprawling Central de Abastos and less touristy than the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Oaxaqueños especially love this market in the morning, often stopping at various fondas (small restaurants) and stalls to seek out particular specialties.
From legendary outlaw hideouts and prehistoric fossil beds, to a centuries-old Native American rock formation and a critical landmark along the Oregon Trail, Wyoming is packed with storied sites worth seeing. Here’s 10 fascinating stops to get you started.
Many different cultures have called California home over the years, from the Chinese to the Dutch to the Japanese, and what they all had in common was an insatiable sweet tooth. This delicious itinerary explores this legacy in the form of fortune cookies, sodas, donuts, cupcakes, and more. Finish your dinner—you’re definitely going to want what California’s got for dessert!
With shoreline from end to end, it’s no wonder California has some of the wildest marine excursions, architecture, and animal life in the country. Grab your surfboard, pack your binoculars, and bring a towel—there’s a world of wonder packed in this itinerary along California’s curious coastline.
A presidential tomb that carries endless drama. A thriving prehistoric society that vanished without a trace. A haunted fun house with a wine cellar apparition.When you think of Illinois, you probably don't think of mysterious mounds, creepy clowns, and a park filled with dragons and wizards. We figure it’s time we changed that. Jump in and join us for a whirling tour through some of Illinois’s most inexplicable, unexpected, and unsuspecting sites.
The innovative mix of Mexican, Mediterranean and Asian-inspired flavors and cooking techniques has created a delectable fusion, “Baja-Med.” Food is the conduit to creating community here, among local farmers, fishermen and restaurant entrepreneurs; and with visitors who are open to experiencing the richness of the land and culture via exquisite tastes, sensory immersion, and creative presentation.
Spanning roughly 300 miles through the state of Arkansas, the Scenic 7 Byway is a road-tripper’s mecca. Dense pine woodlands in the south give way to the verdant Arkansas River valley, reaching the lush Ozark and Ouachita mountains. Dig for crystals, sample the state pie, explore natural formations, and soak in The Natural State’s rich culture and history as you stretch your legs at these worthwhile stops.
While Las Vegas is known for its glitzy neon signs, buzzing clubs and nightlife, and over-the-top casinos, the region itself is also home to some wondrous bars and eateries that lie well beyond the crowded Strip. This Super Bowl season, it’s time to engage in a new type of tailgate. From a stripmall world of tiki to a downhome diner where daily specials are part of the allure, here are 9 places that offer a culinary escape from the bright lights of Nevada’s most iconic city.
From whimsical private home tours to funky creative hubs, hands-on glass-blowing galleries, and lots more, there’s no shortage of alluring art attractions in St. Pete/Clearwater.
One of the most thrilling ways to explore a new place is to go underground. Spelunking, or cave exploration, offers a completely different view: instead of seeing what’s been built up, you see what hides beneath. Texas, with its rich and varied geological history, has a wide collection of subterranean attractions. Say goodbye to above-ground reality for a while, and plan a trip exploring below the surface. Here’s how.
Texas summers don’t mess around: it gets hot around these parts. Which is why swimming holes are so important to the state’s residents—and, luckily, its geography. Around the state, you’ll find natural springs, waterfalls, lakes, and even mermaids to welcome you into fresh waters. Whether you’re planning a swimming-themed road trip or need a spot to cool off the next time you’re in the panhandle, these are our favorite places to splash around in Texas.
Visit any honky tonk around the state and you’ll immediately know: Texans love their music. This is a state rich with musical history and musical culture, from the roots of country music to libraries dedicated to the preservation of historic gospel records. Below are some of the most interesting ways to experience music and sound in the state, whether you’re a country music lover or simply a traveler with curious ears.
As the largest state in the contiguous U.S., Texas also holds a vast amount of the country’s history. While we all remember the Alamo, there’s also a trove of geological, cultural, and even gastronomic history among Texas’ wide skies and vast deserts. Here are some of the most exciting spots to learn about the state’s past, while enjoying its present.
The American South is a mecca of delectable, comforting, and enduring cuisines from an array of cultures. Ranging from Creole to soul, and from Appalachian to Zimbabwean, our multi-state guide offers a unique tasting adventure that you won’t find anywhere else in the world. This itinerary blends some of the most iconic, lesser-known food stops across Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, and North Carolina into one unforgettably tasty road trip.
In the desert of Arizona, a string of ghost towns have been preserved and refurbished to give visitors a glimpse into the history of miners and the businesses who served them during the boom times of the turn of the century. Whether you want to pan for gold, discover junk art, or stay a night in a mining engineer’s cabin, these ghost towns will transport you into Arizona’s Wild West past.
Arizona has some of the most beautiful and surprising landscapes the American West has to offer. The geography of this northeastern stretch of the Sonoran desert can be incredibly dramatic. And while we’ve all heard of—or seen—the majesty of the Grand Canyon, there are a number of lesser-known natural wonders that will take you off the beaten path in this gorgeous state.
There’s already plenty to see and do in Maine with your feet firmly planted on the ground. But what if you could change your vantage point and get above it all? This itinerary will send you into the clouds, atop the state’s highest peaks, and through endless skies on planes, chairlifts, and hot air balloons where you’ll be able to take in Maine’s grandeur with nothing but crisp, clean, mountain air in the way.
If you’re planning a trip to San Antonio, all signs will point you to the Riverwalk, the most-visited tourist destination in the whole state. And while the area offers countless bars, restaurants, and shops, the city is host to a wide array of cultural gems, waiting in plain sight. Whether it’s visiting gorgeous missions, touring sculpture gardens, or immersing yourself in African-American history, San Antonio contains fascinating excursions that will brighten up any trip.
Located just outside the skyscrapers and congestion of downtown Dallas, Mesquite has managed to hold onto its roots as an agrarian community while still keeping up with the times. Known as the Official Rodeo Capital of Texas, the city attracts hundreds of thousands of rodeo fans annually. But the rich town history is also a major draw for visitors wanting to get off the big city track, as exemplified by these six spots.
In a city as big and vibrant as Dallas, it’s possible to miss a few things—like a giant eyeball statue or an enormous, happy robot, for example. This Texas city has a wonderfully quirky side; here are the best ways to take in its wide-ranging and often surprising arts and culture scene.
There is more to Austin than really, really, really good tacos and barbecue. The city is also home to a smorgasbord of natural wonders, many of which are free to enjoy. So burn off your breakfast tacos or brisket by swimming and strolling among Austin’s diverse wildlife and plants.
Atlas Obscura has a tradition of exploring the stories of women who changed the world, from wildlife biologists and mountain climbers to Civil War spies and tattoo artists. To celebrate these daring women who struck out on their own, we’ve put together a cross-country road trip. Over 12 stops and more than 3,000 miles, this route will give you a front-row seat to women’s history in America.
If ghost stories help us confront a harrowing past, it’s no surprise that Louisiana is filled to the brim. From the swamplands to the pine forests, the state reverberates with tales of fortunes won and lost, untimely demises, and some of the darkest chapters of early American history. Whether you believe in the paranormal or not, the stories below reveal the hidden histories behind this mystifying state—place by place, spirit by restless spirit.
You probably know that Florida is famous for its shorelines, from the shell-stacked beaches of Sanibel Island to the music-soaked swaths of Miami. But many of the Sunshine State’s coolest attractions rarely see the light of day—they’re fully underwater. Here are some of the state’s strangest and most spectacular sites, beyond the beach, and below the surface.
East Tennessee boasts some of the state’s most beautiful highways and byways. Rather than rushing from one destination to the next, this is the perfect road trip to meander and stop along the way. Follow this suggested itinerary between Knoxville and Nashville, and you’ll discover lesser-known historical gems, stunning natural landscapes, and some memorable treats, all bookended by two of Tennessee’s truly great cities.
It wouldn’t be quite accurate to say this route from Salt Lake City to Colorado Springs is paved by rogue trailblazers. Indeed, much of it remains unpaved, not so much out of disregard as in homage to the rugged landscape that has inspired so many to strike out against the banal, to write their own script. From pioneering artists to obsessive curators and bold builders, this route follows in the footsteps of a bold few—watch your step.
Celebration or desperation aside, these six spots in Missouri are proof that imbibing is only half the fun of bar culture. From a mountaintop drive-through golf-cart bar to the state's oldest waterhole hole—nestled more than 50 feet underground in a limestone cellar—the “Show-Me State” has no shortage of boozy fun to show you (as long as you're 21+, of course).
Artistic visionaries and the spirit of rogue ingenuity define this route that starts in Denver, winds through the plains of southeastern Wyoming, and finishes in Alliance, Nebraska. It takes you off the beaten path to discover quirky art installations, historic monuments, local flavors, and natural wonders. This route of 11 inspiring spots is certain to spark the autonomous flame for all who take it on.
Iowa is the pantry of America, giving over the vast majority of its land to agriculture and producing more corn and pork than any other state. But the state has also proven fertile ground for pop culture, as well. The landscape has inspired movies, films, songs, paintings, and novels while spawning movie royalty in the form of a certain Duke. Bask in the wonderful corniness of these four pop-culture touchstones in the Hawkeye State.
At the heart of every peach rests its stone center, or pit. So perhaps it’s fitting that Georgia, the Peach State, holds a wealth of stone-based treasures of a different sort. In Walker County, a labyrinth of limestone passages leads to the deepest cave drop in the continental United States. In Calhoun, a rock garden of spectacular sculptures hides behind a church. And in Savannah, two gravestones appear on an airport runway. Whether carved by hand or nature, these stone wonders truly rock.
It turns out that no one really knows how Idaho got its name. It's been thought that the name came from Shoshone, but in truth it may have just been made up by a somewhat shady politician. Regardless of what you call it, the Gem State is sparsely populated and unapologetically wild, and full of wonders—especially geological ones.
When the Grim Reaper visits, it doesn't discriminate. The cemeteries of the Bluegrass State are home to a cast of characters that includes famous folks, as well as others whose faces you know, but whose names you might not recognize. Visitors can pay their respects to a fast-food icon, a world-famous athlete, comedic actor, and a local magician, as well as a folk hero who may or may not be buried there at all.
Nebraska is affectionately known as the Cornhusker State or the Wheat State, but this particular swath of Big Sky Country could also be called “The Land of Very Cool Collections.” From monuments to powdered beverages to love letters to roller skates, here are four exhibits worth a visit.
Massachusetts is a lit-lover's paradise. From landscapes that have moved writers to wax poetic about beans to story-inspired sculpture parks and shops stacked with volumes new and old, the Bay State would also be aptly named the Book State. Here are 12 places to celebrate writers or the places that inspired them.
Two 20th-century musical figures tower over the state of Minnesota: Prince Rogers Nelson and Robert Allen Zimmerman. (That's Prince and Dylan to us mere mortals.) And while the Gopher State definitely celebrates its favorite musical sons, much of the state has a musical bent to it, from a singing beach to a room so devoid of sound is makes a musical madness all its own.
Maryland has the distinction of being one of the first states to officially join the Union in 1788—and as such, it’s played both big and small roles in various battles across the nation's history. Here are eight nods to its military past, ranging from a furnace that produced George Washington’s cannonballs to an unusual museum dedicated to the U.S.'s cryptographic history.
For all of the images of Hollywood glamour, beach living, and beautiful people, Southern California has a lot of peculiarities that don’t get nearly as much attention. This route from Los Angeles to Twentynine Palms seeks out the strange and novel, providing a refreshing foil to SoCal clichés.
South Carolina is known for its picturesque coastal cities and Southern charm. Given its firm placement in the Bible Belt, the Palmetto State is home to many churches—but it also holds fascinating ruins of houses of worship, wondrous works of art inspired by African traditions, and historic holy grounds hiding in plain sight.
Vermont may be known for its maple syrup and homey coziness, but beneath that rustic veneer lies a solid history of mineral industry. Here's a history of the Green Mountain State from the ground up.
Maybe you love your cat a lot—maybe even enough to commission a little painting of your furry companion. But the people of Alabama can do you one better. Here, you’ll find a whole cemetery devoted to hounds, a heartfelt memorial to a fish, even a statue of a pest that drove farmers batty before it also spurred them toward ingenuity. Alabama knows how to fete Fido, as well as his scuttling, swimming, and spacefaring compatriots.
The Rockies may be bigger, but there's something special—and sometimes spooky—about the Appalachians. With dense forest cover, long history, and the shadowy hollows ("hollers," locally), they seem at times to be full of secrets. In West Virginia, the mountains and hills hold tales and myths, and a lot of places that were used and then abandoned. If you get excited about the feel of a shiver down your spine, you'll find a lot to love.
Pick an object. It could be a bottle of mustard. Or a life-size troll sculpture. Or a metal sculpture with big Victorian-steampunk energy. It doesn't really matter, as long as you collect or create so many of them that your collection becomes a roadside attraction and a cherished local landmark. A remarkable number of Wisconsinites have chosen this life path, and the result is a truly remarkable collection of collections scattered across the state.
One of the great resources of the Mount Rushmore State is millions and millions of years old: fossils. The state has long had pride of place in the paleontology world for the dinosaurs and mammoths that have been excavated there. And that history seems to have provided inspiration for the state's menagerie of massive megafauna. Here are some of our favorite places that celebrate dinosaurs, huge animal art installations, mammoths, and ... a prairie dog?
In the 1700s and 1800s, Philadelphia was the center of medical scholarship in the United States. The city not only attracted the brightest minds, but also the most curious cases and characters. From the oldest quarantine facility in the country to a museum that memorializes a traveling dental circus, here are six places to marvel at the trials, errors, and triumphs of medical history in Pennsylvania.
They say that Virginia is for lovers. If you love a little mystery, then they’re definitely right. With its mountain ranges, deep forests, and proximity to the nation’s capital, the state is filled with unusual corners and overlapping histories. From a Cold War bunker turned recording archive to a Styrofoam Stonehenge, these places in Virginia are more than meets the eye.
Every state in the union has graves, and their share of unusual burials or cemeteries, but there's something about the Tarheel State's final resting places that carry a sense of history and mystery, from long-forgotten graveyards, to eternal resting places for conjoined twins, to a politician that had himself buried inside a giant boulder.
Along with the rest of the Pacific Northwest, Oregon has been shaped by volcanic activity. Active volcanoes, Mount Hood among them, dominate the skyline, and the city of Portland was built atop an extinct volcano. Over tens of thousands of years, these geological hotspots have left many holes in their wakes, including deep craters, narrow canyons, and subterranean lava tubes. Here are a few of the most intriguing voids that Oregon has to offer.
The deep, moody forests of Washington state are filled with secrets and stories. From springy mosses to towering Douglas firs, rocky outcrops, and glacial deposits, it’s easy to see how the landscape helped set the tone for stories like David Lynch’s trippy TV series Twin Peaks and the teen vampire romance that is Twilight. Across the Evergreen State, human- and nature-made oddities are rarely far from reach.
Yes, we know, Hawaiʻi is surrounded by water—the state is a watery wonder in and of itself. But the ocean is only the beginning. The volcanic islands' dramatic topography, unpredictable coastlines, and high rainfall mean that water in and around the Paradise of the Pacific cavorts in all sorts of stunning ways: waterfalls, blowholes, pools, and more. (Plus rainbows. Lots and lots of rainbows.) And you can enjoy all of these natural showstoppers without having to get your feet wet.
In the arid and remote expanses of New Mexico's landscape, booms and zooms abound. From the volatile effects of the Manhattan Project to the otherworldly possibilities of Roswell's UFO, the Land of Enchantment has never shied away from the controversial or far-reaching. Here are several places to encounter those legacies across this southwestern state.
New York has been described as a playground for the rich and powerful, but the state's history is full of ordinary people who have overcome extraordinary struggles. What if Seneca Falls, the village that launched the fight for women's suffrage, were as famous as Niagara Falls? What if Weeksville, the historic free Black community in Brooklyn, were as well-known as Williamsburg? From immigrant sanctuaries to the Survivor Tree, here are sites where New York has shown its resilience.
Long before California was home to tech campuses, freeways, and palm trees, Native inhabitants etched huge designs into the landscape. Even before that, at roughly the same time that the Pyramids of Giza were under construction, a tree that still survives today began taking root. And even farther into the past, glaciers and mammoths created enduring monuments to antiquity. Across the state, the distant past is still within easy reach.
There’s a time-tested saying about things being large in Texas—and it certainly holds true for the state’s artworks, many of which are so huge or sprawling they could only reasonably live outdoors. Across the vast expanse of the Lone Star State are artistic testaments to some of the area’s oddest characters and stories.
Famous for country music and hot chicken, Tennessee is also filled with natural wonders. Across the state, caverns beckon. Venturing into some of Tennessee's strangest subterranean haunts is a great way to experience the depths of the state's spell-binding charm.
Michigan is famous for its steep, sweeping sand dunes, freckling of lakes, and unique fossils—but across the state, you'll find slews of automated wonders, past and present. From old animatronic toys to the ruins of early assembly lines, here are seven places to be dazzled by industry.
A deep blanket of snow often covers New England in the winter. But there’s adventure to be found in the frozen landscape, with its steep mountains and frozen ponds—and not just for skiers and snowboarders. This route blazes a unique path through Massachusetts and New Hampshire that is filled with bright colors, bold flavors, and the legacies of pioneering thinkers.
The people of Tucson have been eating off the land for 4,100 years. From grains to livestock to produce introduced by missionaries in the 1600s, this UNESCO City of Gastronomy is home to some of the oldest farmland in North America. What once was old is new again in The Old Pueblo where ancient flavors are found in nearly every dish — trendy to traditional.
Any travel enthusiast would be hard-pressed to open any social media channel and not see photos of Iceland, with its jaw-dropping peaks, natural hot springs, pure glaciers, northern lights and snow-covered landscapes. But the island nation’s appeal goes well beyond the well-worn paths of Reykjavik, the Golden Circle and the southern region's countryside. Travel to the untamed north along the Arctic Coast Way to discover otherworldly beauty—sans crowds—around every bend.
Crowds clog Edinburgh's Royal Mile, the main artery between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. The road is dotted with stores selling Nessie trinkets and lined with bagpipers and street performers pulling off dazzling tricks. But look beyond the tartan tourist traps, and you’ll discover tucked-away gardens, remnants of the city’s medieval past, and much more.
It may be famous for Mardi Gras, but New Orleans has subtle, surprising wonders on tap all year long—even in the touristy French Quarter. Around every cobblestoned corner, you’ll find historic ephemera, bits of Creole culture, environmentalism, and no shortage of spooky stories, whenever you happen to visit.
Los Angeles’ Highland Park is a diverse, eclectic neighborhood that Native Americans and Latinx communities have inhabited for centuries. Celebrated for its history, art scene, ethnic diversity, and cuisine, Highland Park is filled with surprising delights that more and more people are discovering every day. Exploring the neighborhood's nooks and crannies is one of the most rewarding ways to spend a day in L.A.
Wedged between Charing Cross and Leicester Square, Trafalgar Square is known for the throngs of people flocking to its famous attractions. Weave around the tourists on the National Gallery stairs and dodge the crowds clogging the street corners. Instead, duck down dreamy alleys and pop into unique, overlooked museums and shops. There, a secret side of this busy area waits to reveal itself.
Anchored by the Zócalo plaza and the architectural splendor of the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Mexico City's historic center rightfully draws scores of visitors from around the world. If you look, smell, and taste carefully, you’ll also find a universe of culinary offerings that tells stories of immigration, adaptation, and imagination. With the help of Culinary Backstreets, we assembled a primer on eating and drinking your way through the district.
Hollywood Boulevard is world-famous—for the Oscars and the Walk of Fame, for schlocky souvenir shops and crowded tour buses. But beyond the terrazzo stars and the occasional celebrity sighting, there’s plenty left to discover. Here’s how to make Hollywood’s acquaintance, whether you’re a visitor or a local who keeps a practiced distance from these busy, saturated blocks. Look closer and you'll find a neighborhood full of nature, history, and wonder.
There's the Times Square you know, full of blazing billboards, selfie sticks, and costumed characters. Then there's the less familiar one, beyond the lights—the nooks and crannies that most visitors to Midtown Manhattan overlook. They're not obvious, but surprises can still be found along this world-famous stretch of real estate.
Follow along on our 2,200-mile adventure with NPR's 'All Things Considered.'
Forge your own path in this tourist magnet, toward places that are less crowded but no less wondrous.
Find faded grandeur and vibrant street life in Argentina's largest city.
Just when you thought you knew the Windy City, it finds new ways to surprise you.
Find secret vistas, labyrinthine bookstores, and eclectic public art.
In the homeland of explorers, your best bet is to keep looking.
Go beyond the beaches in the continental United States’ only truly tropical city.
New York City's most diverse borough is also its most rewarding.
Southern California's second city holds plenty of sparkling secrets.
Find surprises around every corner in a U.S. city that embraces history like no other.
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Add a rich cultural heritage rooted in ancient civilizations
some of the most exciting gastronomy in the world
We’ve turned up the heat and boiled it down to this list of the best
© Javier Garcia / Shutterstock Oaxaca Surf Lessons Most visitors to Oaxaca make a beeline to one of its numerous sunny beaches
and it’s not hard to see why – there’s really something for everyone
Puerto Escondido has long been a popular beach resort thanks to its beautiful sweeping bay and superlative surfing conditions
Mazunte’s blissed-out natural beauty attracts dreadlocked backpackers and seasoned hippies
Zipolite is the only official clothing-optional playa in Mexico
Neighboring cliff-enclosed Playa del Amor is one of the most dreamy in Oaxaca
Javarman / Shutterstock Hierve el Agua Tours The state of Oaxaca has more than its fair share of extraordinary natural wonders to discover
One of the best-known is the “frozen” waterfall of Hierve el Agua (boiling water)
a spectacular mineral rock formation cascading down a cliff
The cool bubbling spring water here is actually lovely to cool off in
Other swimmable springs can be found at Zuzul in Vega del Sol and Ojo de Agua in Tlacotepec
head to the Manialtepec Lagoon just outside Puerto Escondido
@zyan_bmo / unsplash Oaxaca Mezcal Tours When visiting the birthplace of mezcal
it would be silly not to explore the smoky firewater in a little more depth
There are literally hundreds of palenques (mezcal distilleries) scattered around the state
many of which are more than happy to welcome you with tours
from extracting the cactus juice to fermentation and distillation
Don’t forget to buy a bottle of the good stuff before you leave
Immerse yourself in some untamed Mexican landscape Natural Feature
then a trip to Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve is a must
This is as off-the-radar as you can get (without actually getting totally lost) and listed as a Unesco World Heritage site
lush mountain ranges and a series of microclimates harboring incredible biodiversity
but be sure to stop off at the superb Helia Bravo Hollis Botanical Garden
@sergiferrete / unsplash Oaxaca Food Tours There’s no doubt about it
Oaxacan cooking is among the finest in the world
But to really understand the flavors and aromas of the Mexican foodie and gastronomic hub
The ultimate one is Mercado 20 de Noviembre in Oaxaca City – a rollercoaster for the senses and a real education
it doesn’t get more real than stand-cum-restaurant El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas
it’s no surprise they’re up for a bit of a shindig
the main event in Oaxaca is the Guelaguetza (also known as Los Lunes del Cerro)
it’s a festival for Centéotl (the goddess of maize) and deeply rooted in the region’s pre-Hispanic calendar
it’s a jubilant celebration of indigenous identity
In a destination as culturally rich as Oaxaca, you can always find wonderful examples of local arts and crafts – much of it particular to the region. One great place to start is the Museo Textil de Oaxaca
a museum dedicated to Oaxaca’s traditional textile crafts
head to the Instituto Oaxaqueno de las Artesanias (also known as Aripo)
where everything you buy helps support a community of artists all around the state
This is an updated version of an article by Lauren Cocking
drink and travel writer based out of Mexico
but I also dabble in spewing my unsolicited opinions about teabags and pork pies
Find more of my work at northernlauren.com
News
the Monterey Bay area has served as a cultural and linguistic crossroads where diverse communities have met
One of the lesser-known but deeply significant elements of this multicultural landscape is the indigenous languages spoken by immigrants from Oaxaca
The Humanities Institute (THI) at UC Santa Cruz has been developing a community-engaged research project to create an exhibition delving into the role those languages play in sustaining Oaxacan immigrant culture in California’s Central Coast.
This work builds from Nido de Lenguas, a long standing research, education, and advocacy collaboration between linguists at UC Santa Cruz, led by Professor Maziar Toosarvandani, and the non-profit Senderos
developed by Senderos co-founder Fe Silva Robles.
The Nido’s mission is to share the beauty and value of Oaxacan languages, informed by original research conducted by campus and community scholars. That research has recently included innovative field-based psycholinguistic experimentation in Oaxaca seeded by THI and supported by the National Science Foundation
In 2024, THI received a $607,000 grant from the Institute of Museum and Library Services to support the Oaxacan Languages of the Transnational Central Coast project
which includes a team of paid graduate and undergraduate fellows to work on the research and develop an exhibition at the Santa Cruz Museum of Art and History (MAH). Curators of this exhibition
set to open Spring 2027, will consider language science
Latinx language and history in the Monterey Bay
These UC Santa Cruz students will participate in THI’s Public Fellowship Program, which creates opportunities for Humanities students to contribute to research
and other activities at non-profit organizations
THI already has a strong history of public fellowship partnerships with Senderos and the MAH, including previous year-long positions for graduate and undergraduate students.
The new cohort of THI Oaxacan Language Public Fellows will develop an exhibition in collaboration with and under the layered mentorship of library professionals
local transnational Indigenous activists and scholars
“This project is a deeply exciting way to share with our community the work that scholars at UC Santa Cruz and at Senderos have been leading for many years
and to help uplift a vibrant and important strand in the story of our region and California“ comments Pranav Anand
Hundreds of distinct indigenous languages
one of Mexico’s most ethnically diverse states
is home to a wide variety of indigenous peoples
The region is notable for its hundreds of distinct languages
over 100,000 Oaxacans have migrated to California
with 15,000 to 30,000 of them settling in the Central Coast area
According to a 2007 report from the California Institute for Rural Studies
these immigrants speak a wide array of indigenous languages — often with roots deep in their hometowns and their families’ history
Despite their richness and importance to community identity
Due to misconceptions that indigenous languages are “alien” or “inferior” to Spanish
many native speakers have been discouraged from using their mother tongues
as many immigrants find themselves navigating a complex linguistic landscape where English dominates
and their indigenous languages struggle to survive
the exhibition aims to counter this narrative
highlighting how indigenous Oaxacan languages continue to serve as a vital thread connecting immigrants to their cultural roots and familial ties.
which combines academic scholarship with the voices of local transnational indigenous activists
the exhibition hopes to bring greater recognition to the linguistic diversity of the immigrant community and shed light on the complex dynamics of language
This story is not just particular to the Oaxacan community
It reflects broader themes of multilingualism
and the ongoing negotiation of identity among Latinx immigrants
especially those who carry indigenous heritage.
The exhibition will explore four key themes: language science
and the historical context of language in the Monterey Bay region
The project will also emphasize the importance of language preservation and revitalization efforts within the Oaxacan immigrant community
The development of the exhibition and work to document and preserve Oaxacan indigenous languages is possible through key partnerships with Senderos and Special Collections and The Community Archiving Program at the UC Santa Cruz Library
The project aims to help tell and uplift the stories of indigenous language speakers and contribute to the preservation of this important cultural heritage
While focused on the experiences of Oaxacan immigrants in the Central Coast area
the project also aims to spark broader conversations about the role of indigenous languages in diasporic communities
inviting the public to consider how languages of the past are shaped by historical power dynamics and how they can be empowered today
The exhibition promises to share significant local culture and history and offer a powerful reminder of the importance of language in shaping community
The project is supported by the Institute of Museum and Library Services (IMLS)
the Center for Comparative Language Sciences (CLaS)
and The Humanities Institute at UC Santa Cruz
This article is adapted from AQ’s special report on food security in Latin America. To see other organizations working on this issue, click here
Mexico — Growing up in the rural Oaxacan town of San Baltazar Chichicapam
he hasn’t been able to keep up that practice
and planting got harder as rains became more infrequent
he picked up where he’d left off and learned new techniques
Hernández joined a hands-on lesson on how to plant and maintain a huerto
using only organic materials—no herbicides
synthetic pesticides or chemical fertilizers
He plans to teach what he learned to the students at the school where he works as a cleaner
The workshop was organized by local NGO Mbis Bin
Mbis Bin is a community enterprise dedicated to the research
development and creation of agricultural products
The organization also provides training to promote sustainable agriculture and addresses food insecurity
which affects one in four people in Oaxaca state
Co-founder and president Blanca Sánchez grew up seeing farmers use chemical fertilizers in her town of San Miguel Suchixtepec
where there was a common perception that these were superior to natural alternatives
After studying rural development planning in Puebla
she and three others founded Mbis Bin to help spread alternative models of planting
That morning’s workshop was part of the Harvesting Resilience project
all residents of San Miguel Suchixtepec and nearby towns
ranged from people in their 60s to small children learning with their parents
they planted an organic huerto from scratch
a Mesoamerican planting technique in which a variety of fruits and vegetables are interspersed in the same plot
When it came time to add pesticides to the soil
Mbis Bin co-founder César Ramírez brought out a low-cost organic product
María Hernández shared the method she had learned from her now 84-year-old mother: adding ashes to the soil
another 18 sustainable huertos will be planted in this corner of Oaxaca
Reading Time: 2 minutesFranco is an editor
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Globetrotting surprises in the heart of Oaxaca
The Bib Gourmand distinction is awarded to restaurants that offer a multicourse meal at a reasonable price
And while all are unique and the definition of reasonable varies from country to country
our selection of Bib Gourmand spots will leave both your stomach and wallet satisfied.
With an enviable view over the central square of Oaxaca City
Cobarde could have joined the list of great restaurants offering the traditional moles and tortilla dishes that have turned the city into a foodie capital
they stand out with an inventive and globally inspired menu
pulling in touches from Chef Pako Cortés’s experience in kitchens across Mexico
Carbonara pasta is made with ramen noodles and a piquant kick from Mexican macha salsa and XO seafood sauce from Hong Kong
“We knew it would be a great challenge to depart from Oaxacan cuisine in such an emblematic space
but we wanted to extend the range of flavors inside of the gastronomic offering,” Cortés says
Check out what our Inspectors have to say about Cobarde here
learn from Chef Cortés about the restaurant’s menu and mission
It’s a very difficult question to answer because it’s like asking which of your children is your favorite
our customer’s favorite dish is the chicken dumplings
They’re our version of a dumpling: a chicken wing stuffed with a filling of pork
I think that our dumplings have been received so well because it’s a party of flavors
and it also identifies with many flavors that we have in Mexican cuisine
my favorite plate is the sweet squash salad
which has a cucumber-yogurt raita dressing
The squash is cooked at a low temperature with sweet spices
I really like to play with vegetables and extract their maximum potential and flavor through various spices and techniques
The price range varies from $550 to $750 pesos per person (about $25 to $40 USD)
The terrace of Cobarde has one of the best views of the Templo de Santo Domingo church in the heart of Oaxaca
when the sun is setting and the last rays fall on the temple
transitioning into night for an incredible evening
The idea of Cobarde came from a need to share a good meal with good drinks
It started with a vision to create a space with good mezcal
We knew it would be a great challenge to depart from Oaxacan cuisine in such an emblematic space
but we wanted to extend the range of flavors inside of the gastronomic offering
We love to think of Cobarde as a place that surprises with its vision and quality of drinks
a place to share a table and a good conversation
with the view of Santo Domingo as only a part of the setting to decorate a great evening
The most important thing for us is that people leave Cobarde talking about the food and the experience
We like to define Cobarde as casual haute cuisine
We want to make people feel relaxed when they visit and try dishes that have a lot of work and technique behind them
We want to preserve the feeling of sitting down to eat at a Mexican table where dishes are shared – dishes with new flavors
The focus of the food comes 100 percent from capturing my history as a chef
and the people who have inspired me in the kitchens I’ve worked in in Mexico
Cobarde has a unique style and it’s difficult to define it with a nationality or type of cuisine
Cobarde wanted to be a place where people could enjoy a fair portion and a bill that’s not large
Every day we seek to offer the best quality of product that we can find inside the country
It’s very important for us to have most of the production of our dishes taking place within the restaurant by our team
This not only helps us to have a good margin and set fair prices
but also allows us to ensure that our product is controlled by us and of the best quality
Hero image: Lizet Ortiz / CobardeThumb Image: Francisco García Gómez / Cobarde
For a break from Greece’s traditional veggie- and fish-forward tavernas
carnivores can head to Athens' MICHELIN-recommended spots where meat takes center stage
Discover which dishes our MICHELIN inspectors loved in this year’s selection
Chef Ana Dolores González and her partner Carlos Pérez-Puelles reflect on their journey from a clandestine speakeasy to a celebrated Mexico City establishment
We\u2019re spotlighting a new Bib restaurant with tips on what dish to order, the best time to stop by, and everything in between. Whether it\u2019s fluffy pizzas in Washington, D.C., or a neighborhood bistro with a famous fish in Toronto
pulling in touches from Chef Pako Cort\u00e9s\u2019s experience in kitchens across Mexico
\u201cWe knew it would be a great challenge to depart from Oaxacan cuisine in such an emblematic space
but we wanted to extend the range of flavors inside of the gastronomic offering,\u201d Cort\u00e9s says
\u201cI describe it as food of inspiration.\u201d
Check out what our Inspectors have to say about Cobarde here
learn from Chef Cort\u00e9s about the restaurant\u2019s menu and mission
It\u2019s a very difficult question to answer because it\u2019s like asking which of your children is your favorite
our customer\u2019s favorite dish is the chicken dumplings
They\u2019re our version of a dumpling: a chicken wing stuffed with a filling of pork
I think that our dumplings have been received so well because it\u2019s a party of flavors
We want to preserve the feeling of sitting down to eat at a Mexican table where dishes are shared \u2013 dishes with new flavors
and the people who have inspired me in the kitchens I\u2019ve worked in in Mexico
Cobarde has a unique style and it\u2019s difficult to define it with a nationality or type of cuisine
Cobarde wanted to be a place where people could enjoy a fair portion and a bill that\u2019s not large
It\u2019s very important for us to have most of the production of our dishes taking place within the restaurant by our team
Hero image: Lizet Ortiz / CobardeThumb Image: Francisco Garc\u00eda G\u00f3mez / Cobarde
Find a room
All the materials used to create Humano were handmade
the natural color of exposed concrete contrasts with clay tiles
An exquisite grid pattern enclosed by permeable lattices heightens the flow between the inside world and the surrounding environment
creating a natural relationship with the local scene
The common areas and the rooms employ midcentury modernism and Scandinavian interiors to create a fine balance between simplicity
the hotel’s design is well-grounded in the contemporary Mexican architectural context
plays strongly into the look and character of the interiors
Read their story
Close to the pool and filled with the fragrance of the surrounding garden
the restaurant is both a central gathering place and a touchstone to the authentic flavors of the region
fresh dishes in a welcoming central courtyard
the rooftop is a must for admiring the sunset while perched upon monolithic steps
you can enjoy a covered bar serving drinks and snacks
the rooftop is the perfect spot for making new friends or just reflecting on the day
The Chef/Owner of One MICHELIN Star Levadura de Olla Shares Some of Her Go-To Places
Thalía Barrios García is the chef and cocinera (traditional cook) behind two of Oaxaca’s most exciting restaurants. Hailing from the southern mountains, Sierra Sur, of Oaxaca, Barrios has been a fixture on the Oaxaca restaurant scene since opening her first restaurant, MICHELIN One Star Levadura de Olla in 2019
Her institutions are known for their superb food and service as much as their commitment to fair wages and healthcare and benefits for employees.
I always stop by Bodaega for one of their danishes
and I really love their communal there where you can meet new people and chat with others. Bodaega has excellent pan dulce as well as well as a great vibe.”
Rafael Andrés Villalobos returned home to Oaxaca to start his own bakery alongside his partner
Exclusively working with wheat grown in Oaxaca
Bodaega serves up a selection of laminated pastries to be enjoyed around a single shared table in this cozy downtown space.
He really cares about the coffee plant and has been a trailblazer for specialty coffee here in Oaxaca city
They buy small lots from producers they have close relationships with
or something that will make you want to learn more about coffee.”
Sagrado Filemon is one of the best in a selection of third-wave coffee shops across the city
Housed in a two-story colonial home in the heart of el Centro
the terrace offers breezy views of Oaxaca's famed landmarks
Opt for a pour-over from their always-changing selection and try the coffee cream and cocoa nib pan dulce.
“Doña Ceci prepares lots of different guisados [stews] for her tacos
There’s everything from squash blossoms to skirt steak
tacos de guisado are very traditional to eat in the morning
“The seafood at La Cevichería is always very fresh
it’s one of those places I love to go to enjoy something fresh
Chef Irving Zúñiga is very creative and does a great job.”
Chef Irving Zúñiga’s menu hopscotches around coastal Mexican favorites
so is their consommé and all their beverages
The answer is always ‘yes’ when friends ask if I’m going to Obispo for barbacoa on Sundays.”
slow-cooked goat and the accompanying stock for dipping
Barbacoa spots are easy to find on the highways leading in and out of the city
is one of the few spots nearby the city center
Stop by on a Sunday and you’ll find big groups of families and friends gathering for Sunday lunch and sobremesa
the leisurely after-eating convivial hour that’s a staple in Spanish-speaking countries.
“Xaok is one of those places that you don’t want to share because you want it to stay small and a secret
It has just a few tables and the kitchen is open
so you can see what they’re cooking. It feels intimate
On top of that the food is delicious.”
At this matchbox-sized restaurant on the corner of Oaxaca’s Conzatti Park
guests will find a small menu that takes inspiration from Oaxacan classics
“This taquería on the skirts of the city isn’t like your average spot where they prepare more because they know they have a busy night ahead
Señora Vargas doesn’t have a closing hour because she closes when the meat is gone
but she has the best tacos de suadero and tasajo
and her clients will follow her anywhere.”
Just outside of Oaxaca City in colonia Llano Verde
Taquería Betito draws a crowd from across the metro area
Señora Merced Vargas started Taquería Betito 15 years ago
and today makes every taco by hand herself—at her own rhythm.
“My forever favorite museum is the stamp museum
I’m a big fan of hand-written letters. They’re a very intimate way to connect; to dedicate time to write a letter is to open yourself completely
when we’re so quick to grab our cell phones
this place always inspires me and reminds me with a sheet of paper and a pen we can always write letters
houses an impressive collection of stamps and letters
like one of the first-ever adhesive issued postal stamps and original letters from Frida Kahlo to her physician
“I really admire all the years they’ve spent researching and documenting the mezcal production process
They really take care of every step of the process
and Graciela is a true expert who is doing right by her family and family’s history."
Real Minero has been producing mezcal for five generations
and the challenges the industry faces today.
Sagrado Filemón I Pan y CaféIgnacio Allende 218
Museo De La Filatelia MUFIC/ de la Constitución 201
One of the world’s most celebrated chefs discusses his legacy
The shiba inu-loving chef shares his favorite spots around town
Thal\u00eda Barrios Garc\u00eda is the chef and cocinera (traditional cook) behind two of Oaxaca\u2019s most exciting restaurants. Hailing from the southern mountains, Sierra Sur, of Oaxaca, Barrios has been a fixture on the Oaxaca restaurant scene since opening her first restaurant, MICHELIN One Star Levadura de Olla in 2019
\u201cBefore I go to the Sierra [mountains]
and I really love their communal there where you can meet new people and chat with others. Bodaega has excellent pan dulce as well as well as a great vibe.\u201d
Rafael Andr\u00e9s Villalobos returned home to Oaxaca to start his own bakery alongside his partner
\u201cDavid [the owner] is an expert in coffee
or something that will make you want to learn more about coffee.\u201d
\u201cDo\u00f1a Ceci prepares lots of different guisados [stews] for her tacos
There\u2019s everything from squash blossoms to skirt steak
\u201cThe seafood at La Cevicher\u00eda is always very fresh
it\u2019s one of those places I love to go to enjoy something fresh
Chef Irving Z\u00fa\u00f1iga is very creative and does a great job.\u201d
Chef Irving Z\u00fa\u00f1iga\u2019s menu hopscotches around coastal Mexican favorites
\u201cI love the way they make their beans
so is their consomm\u00e9 and all their beverages
The answer is always \u2018yes\u2019 when friends ask if I\u2019m going to Obispo for barbacoa on Sundays.\u201d
Stop by on a Sunday and you\u2019ll find big groups of families and friends gathering for Sunday lunch and sobremesa
the leisurely after-eating convivial hour that\u2019s a staple in Spanish-speaking countries.
\u201cXaok is one of those places that you don\u2019t want to share because you want it to stay small and a secret
so you can see what they\u2019re cooking. It feels intimate
On top of that the food is delicious.\u201d
At this matchbox-sized restaurant on the corner of Oaxaca\u2019s Conzatti Park
\u201cThis taquer\u00eda on the skirts of the city isn\u2019t like your average spot where they prepare more because they know they have a busy night ahead
Se\u00f1ora Vargas doesn\u2019t have a closing hour because she closes when the meat is gone
and her clients will follow her anywhere.\u201d
Taquer\u00eda Betito draws a crowd from across the metro area
Se\u00f1ora Merced Vargas started Taquer\u00eda Betito 15 years ago
and today makes every taco by hand herself\u2014at her own rhythm.
\u201cMy forever favorite museum is the stamp museum
I\u2019m a big fan of hand-written letters. They\u2019re a very intimate way to connect; to dedicate time to write a letter is to open yourself completely
when we\u2019re so quick to grab our cell phones
\u201cI really admire all the years they\u2019ve spent researching and documenting the mezcal production process
and Graciela is a true expert who is doing right by her family and family\u2019s history.\"
Produced by the \u00c1ngeles Carre\u00f1o family
Sagrado Filem\u00f3n I Pan y Caf\u00e9Ignacio Allende 218
Museo De La Filatelia MUFIC/ de la Constituci\u00f3n 201
Hero image: Thal\u00eda Barrios Garc\u00eda
Ugly. Confusing. Mechanically unintuitive. Designed by a madman. These are the comments I've received on Hinge dates, but they're also how I'd describe Brigand: Oaxaca
a baffling but brilliant immersive sim from 2017 whose emphasis is on "total freedom of action" and murdering you repeatedly
and has an uncompromising old-school design approach that demands you spend a few doomed playthroughs figuring out its character build system before you can really progress past the early game
If you're the kind of weirdo who's into Stalker
Kenshi—worlds that fundamentally don't care about you and adhere strictly to their own rules—consider this my unreserved recommendation
Brigand: Oaxaca feels like burying all those games a mile underground
subjecting them to an eon of heat and pressure
and pulling out the mystifying diamond that results
(Image credit: Laughing Coyote Software)(Image credit: Laughing Coyote Software)(Image credit: Laughing Coyote Software)(Image credit: Laughing Coyote Software)Brigand: Oaxaca starts you out in prison
Brigand: Oaxaca starts you out at character creation in glorious 4:3
The rest of the game is not in 4:3 (it goes all the way up to 1080p
There's probably a technical reason for that
but I choose to interpret it as a statement of intent: the game letting you know what you're dealing with right from the off
Just in case you didn't get the message from its launcher looking like an install wizard for Microsoft Office '95
choose a face for him (there are three: Camilo Cienfuegos
Your starting class determines your starting stats
and your starting stats determine your starting abilities
I decided to be a Witchdoctor because it was the least comprehensible thing on the menu
That made me very good at bandaging people and learning new spells
less hot at exterminating my foes with extreme prejudice
Brigand starts you off in prison (but not for brigandry
and your first tentative steps into its plot happen when someone from Uncle Bob's National Security—one of the game's factions—frees you on the condition you protect his brewery from an attack by another faction: the Eleggua Tribe
so you could always just flee into the mountains and leave these people behind
but I was keen to follow something resembling a plotline
I had no idea what was happening and wanted weapons and skillpoints
and I've played enough videogames to know those things come from doing stuff people ask you to do
counterproductive when it comes to killing people
when armed men poured across the hills and into the brewery
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I walked into a graveyard and got insta-gibbed by something that looked like the sexy fish from The Shape of Water
There were multiple ways I could have dealt with this—the more I play
the more astounded I am at just how much Brigand lets you do
the ways it lets you poke at and interact with its world and systems
A nearby building offered a chance to climb up on the roof and pick the thugs off from afar
perhaps I could enlist certain nearby citizens into my party and have them do the grunt work
I could pick up an explosive gas can and try to lay a trap
Or I could see if the thugs would let me join them
I could possibly kite the attackers over to the nearby town and try to cause a massive fracas that would
I crouched in a dark corner and picked the thugs off before they knew I was there
(Image credit: Laughing Coyote Software)(Image credit: Laughing Coyote Software)(Image credit: Laughing Coyote Software)This got me in good with Uncle Bob and co
from gathering three bananas for the gun store owner to reclaiming the stolen eye of a guy at the bar from a bunch of nearby ghouls (who I dispatched by luring them into conflict with nearby security forces)
and power: a far cry from the puny Witchdoctor who had died at the hands of the thugs attacking the brewery
Then I walked into a graveyard and got insta-gibbed by something that looked like the sexy fish from The Shape of Water
This is either going to sound incredible or like the worst time a person could possibly have
It felt exactly like the first part of Stalker: Shadow of Chernobyl
where the locals task you with clearing out a nearby garage of a few measly bandits with just a dinky Soviet pistol
Every Stalker player died a thousand times there before finally coming to grips with the game enough to eke their way through
It rewards patience and observation and punishes you if you try to treat it like any other FPS
Brigand: Oaxaca feels like that times a thousand
Joshua WolensSocial Links NavigationNews WriterOne of Josh's first memories is of playing Quake 2 on the family computer when he was much too young to be doing that
and he's been irreparably game-brained ever since
and has written far too much on everything from visual novels to Assassin's Creed
and any game whose ambition outstrips its budget
He thinks you're all far too mean about Deus Ex: Invisible War
Home » Community Actions to the Water Crisis and the Impact of the Landfill in Eastern Zaachila
Location: Oaxaca’s Central Valleys region.Communities that will directly benefit from the project: The Vicente Guerrero Municipality and the Lomas de la Cuesta and El Manantial neighborhoods
Other Organizations Involved: Group for the Promotion of Education and Sustainable Development (Grupedsac)
the Metropolitan Autonomous University (UAM)
the National Commission for Protected Natural Areas (Conanp)
the Zapoteca Espiga de Maíz (“Corn Cob”) Collective and a group from the Coordinating Committee of the United Peoples for Water Defense and Stewardship which initiated the project
@ Centro de Derechos Indígenas Flor y Canto A.C
The Vicente Guerrero Municipality and the Lomas de la Cuesta and El Manantial neighborhoods
which are in the Villa de Zaachila Municipality in Oaxaca’s Central Valleys region
are communities afflicted by severe water shortages since 2016
This situation has since turned into a severe drought
which now affects most of the state of Oaxaca
the state’s water wells recorded their lowest-ever water levels
the area is impacted by a landfill that was in operation for nearly 40 years
which received solid waste from 28 municipalities
has contaminated various water sources and
has put at risk the health of local inhabitants
as well as compromised the availability of the precious water resource
the biodiversity that still exists is at risk in the region’s high country
which is the region’s only intact green space and
serves to mitigate the effects of pollution and drought
Whether you want to head to the beach or appreciate slow living
(Left) Carlos Reyes/Pexels (Right) Oscar F Santamaria/Unsplash
While Oaxaca’s capital is renowned for its vibrant culture and unique gastronomy
the coastline—less than 100 miles away—offers travelers a different slice of paradise
this more than 300-mile stretch of pristine Pacific beachfront is dotted with surf towns
With increased access and improved infrastructure
now is the time to visit the Oaxacan coast
The Oaxaca Coast is home to both cities like Puerto Escondido and small towns like Mazunte
(Left) Sofia Gonte/Pexels (Right) Hersom/Pexels
Much of the Oaxacan coast offers dramatic landscapes interspersed with beach towns—ideal for a road trip
The most popular stretch for visitors is the area from Puerto Escondido in the west to the city of Huatulco in the east
Puerto Escondido is a port town of 30,000 and growing
known as the “Mexican Pipeline,” which attracts surfers from around the world
Fifteen minutes west of Puerto is Laguna de Manialtepec
a well-preserved ecological area with rare birds
Several operators run trips in motorized outboard boats called lanchas
with English-speaking guides and transportation from Puerto
About an hour east of Puerto Escondido is the small beach town of Zipolite
one of the most gay-friendly destinations in Mexico
with a history of attracting backpackers and hippies since the 1970s
It continues to rise in popularity among LGBTQ+ travelers as an alternative to scene-y Puerto Vallarta
envision a chilled-out strip of seaside shacks
While there is a gorgeous expanse of waterfront
the current is notoriously treacherous here and most travelers should avoid the aggressive waves
Mazunte is a Pueblo Magico
a town that’s recognized by the Mexican government as having special cultural
the celebrated element is the village’s natural waterfront beauty
a popular lookout point for watching the sunset
This hippie beach town is also known for its yoga retreats, and there’s no shortage of shopping boutiques that lean into spirituality and healthy, local eateries like the plant-based offerings at El Armadillo
the fishing village of San Agustinillo is only a 15-minute walk away
This fishing village has pristine stretches of sandy beach and picturesque coves
A road trip to Oaxaca’s coast from the region’s capital requires a drive through the Sierra Madre del Sur
that meant enduring a daylong bus ride in the mountains
complete with nausea-inducing hairpin turns
The Barranca Larga–Ventanilla Highway opened last spring
connecting Oaxaca City with Puerto Escondido by cutting through the mountain range
This 65-mile stretch of roadway not only slashes driving time from eight hours to less than three but the new superhighway also opens access to previously remote towns in the interior
like San Pablo Coatlán and Santa María Colotepec
United Airlines will become the first carrier to connect the United States with Puerto Escondido
When nonstop service from Houston commences in April
it will mark the first international arrival for the city’s airport
a growing facility that handled more than 800,000 passengers in 2024
In recent years, there’s been an effort to build more upscale properties on the coast like Hotel Humano
Located on a pedestrian-only street in Puerto Escondido’s La Punta Zicatela beach
the 39-room stay features spaces that are stunningly minimalist yet functional
with splashes of color from handmade red wine–colored tiles
and guests should head to the rooftop—it has one of the best spots in town to catch the sunset
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Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s most devout states
so it’s no surprise that the run up to Lent coincides with extra religious holidays
because there’s plenty more to see in March
enjoys some high culture and offers the usual array of exciting activities for visitors and residents alike
Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán hosts an annual event called “Martes de Bruja” or Witches Tuesdays
This takes place every Tuesday following Ash Wednesday
This tradition dates back to colonial times
Fidelio is an opera by German composer Ludwig van Beethoven
inspired by a true story from the French Revolution
It resonates with contemporary life’s themes of isolation
Fidelio is streaming at the beautiful Teatro Macedonia Alcala
built in the early 20th century and seats around 800 people
The opera will be live-streamed from the Metropolitan Opera in New York
The spring equinox takes place on March 20 and is a beautiful time to visit one of the various archaeological sites in Oaxaca
There will also be an event in Etla hosted by Aguamiel to welcome spring with a three-day celebration (March 21st
This is their fifth annual Spring Equinox festival
March marks the anniversary of the birth of President Benito Juárez, born in Pablo Guelatao
To commemorate his efforts for the Mexican people
he is remembered on (or near) his birthday every year
while people celebrate with parades and fireworks
Ceremonies are held at the Monument to Benito Juárez monument
where floral tributes and speeches celebrate his contribution to the nation
President Claudia Sheinbaum will also visit Oaxaca to commemorate the anniversary
Puerto Rican Pop singer and songwriter Encarnita “Kany” García de Jesús is performing in Oaxaca
García is known for hits such as “Hoy Ya Me Voy”
“Quédate” and “Para Siempre”
Samaritans Day is celebrated on the fourth Friday in Lent
This day is observed by recreating a passage in the bible where a Samaritan woman by the name of Photine gave a thirsty Jesus a drink of water at a well (John 4)
Although this is not the more famous Samaritan passage (Luke 10)
the moral is the same: be kind to everyone
Samaritans Day follows this idea, with free water offered to one and all. In Oaxaca city people set up with fruit flavored “aguas,” which are given to passersby
the main walking street near Santo Domingo church is a good place to find aguas
Regional Mexican band ‘El Trono de México’ specialize in Durango and Tierra Caliente music genres
The genre was influenced by the technobanda sound
using instruments such as electric keyboards
The electric keyboard gives the genre a signature keyboard riff
“Finding the Universe” is an exhibition by Gary Goldberg transforming photographs with felting
show forms observed in the deteriorated patina of the ancient city walls
Goldberg explains that he finds “mythological creatures
WILLISTON — The sign above El Comal Mexican Cuisine says a lot about the painstaking process the owners followed to get their new restaurant started
2023,” which is a long time ago for a place that just opened in early January
Cayetano Santos and Casimiro De Jesus followed that lengthy path because they wanted to get their restaurant right
The natives of the Mexican state of Oaxaca are doing what they can to make that oft-thrown-about Mexican-restaurant label “authentic” as true as possible at El Comal
With help from family and friends who help staff the restaurant
They create dishes on the spot using implements common in Oaxaca
including the comal – a flat piece of cookware used over an open fire to cook chiles
tomatoes and other ingredients – that gives the restaurant its name
“In order to keep the freshness we have to cook as (customers) order,” Santos said
Natives of rural OaxacaSantos and De Jesus are natives of rural Oaxaca – they both speak Triqui
a local language – but didn’t meet until they worked in the restaurant industry in Albany
Santos worked in Albany at a Chili’s restaurant as well as Mexican and Indian eateries before going on to make sushi at a fine-dining restaurant
Michael’s College and served as an interpreter/translator for the federal government
De Jesus said he made pizza and worked in a Mexican restaurant in Albany
He arrived in Vermont to study culinary arts at the Northlands Job Corps Center in Vergennes
and after that ran the Piesanos pizza place on Main Street in Burlington
The two made plans more than a year ago to open El Comal in the Taft Corners Shopping Center but ran into obstacles as they strived to serve true Oaxacan food
Santos said he and De Jesus set out to make their own tortillas from pre-made masa
“We couldn’t use the masa that we were sent to try,” according to Santos
contained too much lime or didn’t use the type of corn that he and De Jesus wanted
They decided to make their own masa but it took months to find the right-sized mill to fit in their modest kitchen in Williston
El Comal might not provide exactly what diners have been conditioned to eat in Americanized Mexican restaurants
Because of the specialized ingredients and the labor-intensive tools used to make dishes as they’re ordered
Santos said those eating at El Comal might be surprised that their meals aren’t fast and cheap
(Entrees range from $16 to $27.) He said part of the service El Comal provides is teaching about the cuisine of Oaxaca and that good Mexican food can be more complicated than people realize
“People seem to like mole,” he said of the chocolate-based sauce common in Oaxaca
“They seem to like quesadilla al comal.” The latter is a handmade tortilla folded in half and filled with fresh cheese
El Comal seats 40 diners and will have outdoor seating
Business has been strong in the first few weeks
It’s been really crazy on the weekends,” he said
with possible additions including ceviche and pork dishes
finalize their liquor license and get their feet on the ground as they establish El Comal in the relatively soft winter restaurant season
“I think it’s a good time to open,” Santos said
El Comal Mexican Cuisine, 28 Taft Corners Shopping Center, Williston. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. (802) 764-0279, www.instagram.com/elcomalwillistonvt/
Contact Brent Hallenbeck at bhallenbeck@freepressmedia.com
A short stretch of Oaxaca’s scenic Pacific coast makes an easy day trip from Puerto Escondido — plan on plenty of pit stops
whether you’re exploring via two wheels or four
Playa Zicatela is a world-renowned big-wave beach.Photograph by Image Professionals GmbH
2025This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).There’s a word in Spanish
which doesn’t have a satisfactory English translation
when each cloud on the horizon acquires a halo-like glow and the sky’s amber tint grows fainter as the sun slides into the sea
but on Mexico’s Pacific coast it’s a nightly occurrence
An arrebol accompanies bedtime on my first night in Puerto Escondido — in this stylish party town
I’m probably the only person turning in early
it was mostly only surfers willing to make the trek to Oaxaca’s coast
lured by the chance of sharing waves with leaping dolphins
But in 2024 the new Barranca Larga-Ventanilla highway connected Puerto Escondido to the state capital
replacing a treacherous 10-hour bus journey across the mountains with an easy three-hour drive
The road is already bringing new visitors and greater prosperity to this fast-evolving settlement
A Nice Place on the Beach is a popular hotel
bar and restaurant on Playa Zipolite backpackers and surfers.Photograph by Nina Raingold
having arranged to ride on the back of a friend’s motorbike as he drives south along a short section of a different stretch of road: the salt-flecked Highway 200
which hugs almost the entirety of Mexico’s Pacific coast
We’re in search of quieter pastures: the beaches guarded by secretive surfers; the outposts of the friendly hippies who have spent decades here; and the serene villages that barely extend beyond a single street
we pass revellers making their way home along sand-dusted streets from the nightclubs lining Playa Zicatela
As we pass through the neighbourhood of La Punta to its eponymous beach
smoothie shops and cafes are already filled with the first gaggle of sunrise surfers
the road quickly becomes flanked by the soaring Sierra Madre del Sur mountains to the east and the crashing Pacific to the west; I can taste the sea on the breeze
we pause to let herded goats cross the highway or to politely parry the roadside liquor salesmen offering un pocito mezcalito ‘for the road’
we’ve reached the first popular beach town on the southerly route: Zipolite
stark-naked sunbathers glance our way — there is a nudist beach
(A practical guide to travelling in southern Mexico.)
Oaxaca City, where I live, has spoiled me for street food, so instead I take an al fresco table at beachfront restaurant Xhuba. By the time my citrus-scented bowl of aguachile arrives, the legs of my plastic stool have sunk a few inches further into the sand. Mixed with of sharp serrano peppers and creamy avocado, the bowl of lime-cured shrimp is a refreshing antidote to the midday rays.
Tonight, there’s an immediate scurry as miniscule olive ridley turtles test out their ungainly waddle. Soon, night will fall; we’ll never know how many reached the sea. All we can do is sit and watch while the turtles scamper towards another scarlet sunset.
(Available in select countries only).","header":null,"inlineId":"55f5ca56-ad42-477a-8b84-856d8a6fae92"}}],"Blockquote":{"disableQuotationMark":true,"simple":true},"datelineSeparator":"—","stripBr":false,"className":"PrismArticleBody DoubleColumn StartsWithInline","hideReadTime":true},"dataConstructorMap":{},"topComponents":[{"name":"PrismArticleLead","data":{"caption":{"credit":"Photograph by Image Professionals GmbH
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And as the home of the first surf schools in the country
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and includes cycling through the remains of the city of Pergamon
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clawing themselves back from the dark days of the end of the last century
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Australia is home to a wide array of beaches.","rchDsc":{"markup":"From rocky cliffs and powerful waves to peaceful sandstone cliffs
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the Coast Starlight’s route unspools along the Pacific Ocean from Los Angeles via Sacramento to Seattle
towering mountain ranges and glistening cityscapes
bar shacks and fish stalls line Sri Lanka's sandy beaches in a surfing revolution.","ttl":"Sri Lanka surfing birds eye sea view","rchDsc":{"markup":"Boutique surf camps
bar shacks and fish stalls line Sri Lanka's sandy beaches in a surfing revolution
April is usually a fairly quiet time of year in Oaxaca
It is getting warmer with temperatures averaging around 30 C (86 F) in the city
as the famous jacaranda trees are still in full bloom
This year Semana Santa (Holy Week) is celebrated in April
you can find symbols of the upcoming celebrations
Shops and homes are decorated with purple and white ornaments
A post shared by Matamoros 404 (@matamoros.404.oaxaca)
The testimony of a collective organization for water autonomy that demonstrates that
This is the final installment of a viewing series that began with International Water Day on March 22 at Matamoros 404
a cultural center and transdisciplinary arts space
there will be an opportunity to discuss issues of water security and environmental sustainability
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dry Oaxacan afternoons are perfect for sipping on a cold beer
And what could be more perfect than sipping a locally made one on top of a beautiful rooftop
one mead project and one kombucha project will gather at the Casa de Barro cultural and commercial center to celebrate craft beer made in Oaxaca
Each brewery will feature at least two different styles of beer
There will also be DJs and live music throughout the event
Coordinated by the Asociación de Cerveceros de Oaxaca
it is an opportunity to try different styles of locally crafted beer
eat delicious food and dance the evening away
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This exhibition at Oaxaca’s beautiful photography museum showcases work by esteemed photographer Alberto “El Negro” Ibáñez
Ibáñez has explored the cultural and ethnic diversity of Oaxaca and the world Originally from Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán
Ibáñez says that over the past thirty years he has focused on documentary photography
The artist focuses his photography on portraits
a person.” This exhibition captures a picture-postcard life of Paris at the turn of the millennium
A must-see exhibition that reveals the city from an intimate and surreal perspective through subway scenes
gay pride and portraits reflected in urban window displays
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If you are keen to find a night of dance and electronic music in Oaxaca city
then Estación Morelos is a great venue to be aware of
they’re hosting a Closed Society Record’s event
the third edition of “Under Control.” The night will feature performances and music from 3Gallos
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will host an exhibition from photographer Anna Bruce and tattoo artist Edgar Gopar
including Gopar’s interventions on Bruce’s photographs from the world of mezcal production
The photos are selected from over a decade of Bruce’s close work with the agave spirits community in Oaxaca state
is the photos themselves,” “those windows that took me to a moment where the spirit of the maguey-mezcal was present.” A courtesy mezcal is available on arrival
A Rambling Spirits bartender will collaborate with Insitu’s managing bartender David Castillo for some bespoke cocktails
it is customary to visit churches just to see the decorations and offerings
One of the main days of reverence in Oaxaca is Good Friday
you will find the various stagings of the ‘Stations of the Cross’ in the streets of the city and in the afternoon you can follow along with the majestic Procesión del Silencio at 5 p.m
carrying lit candles and wearing tunics and hoods
The procession winds through the Historic Center
You can see depictions of Christ’s passion and biblical scenes evoking Jesus’ death and resurrection
A post shared by Secretaría de Turismo del Estado de Oaxaca (@secturoaxaca)
shares its culinary and artisanal traditions in the 12th annual Expo-Feria del Pan y la Talabartería
Attendees will be able to discover the community’s baking and saddlery traditions
as well as participate in activities such as tasting traditional foods such as liver
Fifteen bakeries and ten leather workshops will participate
and other leather products will be available for purchase
as will the town’s traditional drink
Mexican indie pop group Latin Mafia made their U.S
The group consists of twin brothers Milton and Emilio de la Rosa on vocals
Their music has been described as a reggaeton
they take the stage at the Auditorio Guelaguetza as part of their “Te odio y te extraño mucho” tour
A post shared by Secretaría de Turismo del Estado de Oaxaca (@secturoaxaca)
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The two-day event is free and invites local musicians and families to join Oaxacan composers to participate in a recording session and evening performance
will come to UC Riverside on November 1-2.
will gather to form a philharmonic orchestra and perform on campus at the UCR Arts Building courtyard
The two-day conference includes panel discussions
bilingual college information sessions for parents
and a grand performance and dance at the conclusion of day two
“Encuentro de Música Oaxaqueña en UCR: Raíces y Ramas” (Oaxacan Music Encounter at UCR: Roots and Branches) is free and open to the public
Organized by Xóchitl C. Chávez
the event is part of the annual UCR Encuentros series
which has been showcasing Latin American musical heritage since 2005
1 will feature academic presentations and conclude with a master class led by composer Rubén Luengas Pérez
Musicians from the Inland Empire and afar are encouraged to participate in this master class and bring their own instruments to join the performance the following day
People wishing to participate must request music sheets 10 days before the performance by emailing xochitl.chavez@ucr.edu
2 musical performance will showcase funeral marches arranged by Jorge Martínez Jiménez and conducted by Leslie García Parada
the first female director of the youth philharmonic band Descendencia Oaxaqueña in Greensboro
This music has special significance since Nov
a cultural tradition practiced in Latin America that honors the deceased with music
Participants will be part of an innovative community-oriented recording session for Oaxacan composers with support of UCR’s Experimental Acoustics Research Studio
“My dream has always been to create a pipeline of Oaxaqueños and other ethnic groups to feel welcome at UCR and welcomed to join our Department of Music,” Chávez said. In 2018 Chávez convened the inaugural Oaxacan Philharmonic Bands Audition
which was made up of four orchestras with more than 140 multigenerational musicians
Participants in this event represent various Indigenous Oaxacan communities including Mixtec
Another of Chávez’s goals through the conference is to see and understand the intergenerational aspects of women musicians
and new compositions; the event features female composers and directors.
As a cultural anthropologist and applied ethnomusicologist, Chávez’s research has focused on transnational migration of Indigenous Mexicans, specifically looking at the music and cultural migration of Oaxacans into the United States. During the summer of 2023, Chávez spent several weeks interviewing Indigenous female musicians in Oaxaca and Mexico City.
the importance of connecting Mexican Indigenous musicians to UCR is a way of reminding the community that UCR is a Hispanic Serving Institution with programming for the public
For parents attending the college information sessions
Chicano Student Programs will facilitate conversations in Spanish and English.
“This symposium is a unique opportunity to witness the breadth and depth of Oaxacan musical traditions as they’ve developed across diverse geographical contexts,” Chávez said
“By bringing together presenters from Oaxaca
we’re showcasing how Oaxacan music-making practices have been preserved
and reimagined within different diasporic communities.”
Location: On the UCR campus, 900 University Ave. in Riverside. Look for the Arts Building courtyard
Roundtable: Florecimiento of Women’s participation and transborder contributions in Oaxacan Bandas
tel: (951) 827-1012 email: webmaster@ucr.edu
A guide to spending Day of the Dead in one of Mexico's most vibrant cities
the restaurant and store sells a variety of Oaxacan treats
from sweet bread to ice cream to chapulines
Even though Viva Oaxaca has been at its current location on Petaluma Boulevard for over three and a half years
Inside the business – a joint restaurant and store – hangs a colorful painting with “Bienvenidos a Viva Oaxaca,” Spanish for “Welcome to Viva Oaxaca,” written in large block letters
The painting also features the smiling faces of the owners
husband and wife team Lino Alberto Arango and Edelia Arango
While the old restaurant’s sign remains outside
The couple said removing vestiges of the old restaurant – which Lino said has become a place of reference – is not a priority since they moved in and expanded to add the restaurant
and multi-generational families filled the air with their conversation as silverware melodiously clanged on the plates
Viva Oaxaca serves food that is “100% Oaxacan,” Lino said with a grin
The couple first opened their store in 2015 at a location farther up the Boulevard
a small town in the Central Valleys region of Oaxaca in southern Mexico
Oaxaca is well known for its flavorful and heavily spiced gastronomy rooted in its Indigenous culture
The restaurant offers traditional Oaxacan treats that Lino and Edelia grew up eating
made from a corn-masa base flattened and topped with beans
cheese and meat ($5 to $7); and tlayudas (pronounced cleye-yu-dus)
stringy cheese called quesillo ($18 to $22 depending on choice of meat)
fried chile rellenos ($18); rajas (ra-hass)
sliced poblano peppers with chicken or cheese ($18); and molotes
corn dough filled with potato and chorizo and deep fried ($8 for a half order or $15 for full)
Some vegetarian offerings include the quesadillas with squash blooms or mushrooms ($14) and tamales with poblano peppers ($3.50)
They also make a vegan tamale with an herb called “chepil” that tastes similar to watercress when cooked (also $3.50)
Oaxaca is especially known for its “black mole,” a dark
heavily spiced sauce often served with chicken ($18) or in tamales wrapped in banana leaves ($5)
as well as other varieties of mole and meat combinations
Other popular specials include chilaquiles ($18 to $20)
and a few other varieties of mole ($18) such as mole verde (green mole)
sit tubs of traditionally made Oaxacan ice cream ($5 to $7)
On the weekends they serve hot chocolate ($4); atole con granillo
a corn-based drink with pieces of sweet corn ($5); and champurrado
located just a few steps away and filled with imported goods – including many of the ingredients used to make the restaurant’s meals
Shelves in the tightly packed store are stocked with bags of different mole varieties
and stacks of plain tlayudas in a few sizes
spiced chapulines – spiced grasshoppers for snacking – sit in one fridge near banana leaves used to wrap tamales and the spicy “chile de agua” or “water chili” native to Oaxaca
the couple stock up items traditionally used to celebrate the day honoring deceased loved ones
like the traditional Mexican marigold known as “flor de cempasuchil” and small
Lino treks to a Oaxacan bakery in Monterey County for fresh bread because “It’s something traditional,” he said
One such bread is called “pan burro,” Spanish for “donkey bread,” which refers to the method that the bread is transported through one of Oaxaca’s mountainous regions
The cost of bread ranges from $1.50 to $5 apiece
Though most of Viva Oaxaca’s customers are Mexican
Lino said many are of different Spanish-speaking cultures who’ve married Oaxacans and are seeking ingredients to recreate the dishes at home
He added that many Americans who aren’t of Latino heritage stop by in search of Oaxacan treats they first tasted while visiting his home state
one customer came in looking for pickled dates
“He’s the only one who sells it,” said Willy Gonogora
who comes from the Mexican state of Tabasco and grew up eating the dish
Lino and Edelia know their customer base and
know that some customers might not trek to Petaluma
so they frequent local flea markets to sell the fresh goods
and import the goods brought over under their own brand
They also recently bought a Oaxacan restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District
dubbed “La Oaxaqueña” or “The Oaxacan girl,” located at 2128 Mission St
“Everything has turned out perfectly for us,“ Lino reflected
”because of the food that makes us stand out.“
You can reach Staff Writer Jennifer Sawhney at 707-521-5346 or jennifer.sawhney@pressdemocrat.com
Chef-founded Mexican food brand specializing in salsas and mole sauces awarded grand prize following extensive five-month mentorship program
PURCHASE, N.Y., Dec. 3, 2024 /PRNewswire/ -- Today, PepsiCo (NASDAQ: PEP) announced ¡Ya Oaxaca!
a food company that crafts artisanal Mexican mole sauces
as the winner of the ninth class of the Greenhouse Accelerator
This year marks the second year of the Greenhouse Accelerator Program: Juntos Crecemos (Together We Grow) Edition
which aims to elevate emerging high-potential consumer packaged food and beverage companies inspired by Hispanic flavors and culture that are better for people and the planet
with ingredients sourced and produced in Mexico
capture the bold and diverse flavors of Oaxaca
chef-crafted and all-natural Mexican meals for any occasion
will receive a $100,000 grant and other resources to scale their operations and grow their business
The announcement comes after a competitive judging process and a five-month PepsiCo mentorship program
Founded by Chef Susana Trilling and her sons Kaelin Ulrich
was selected from eight promising finalists by the PepsiCo Selection Committee for applying the mentorship learnings to grow its revenue by 350%
and enhance operational efficiencies to improve gross product margins
each finalist received a $20,000 grant and hands-on coaching from PepsiCo experts across R&D
This support was tailored to help finalists tackle specific business challenges
"It inspires me to see how all eight finalists leveraged the resources and PepsiCo mentorship to elevate their businesses to impressive heights - from growing revenue to innovating into new categories within food and beverages and more," said Antonio Escalona
Senior Vice President of Emerging Business for PepsiCo Foods North America
stood out for its commitment to transforming grocery store aisles with bold flavors and new product variations
The company's outstanding results show great potential to evolve the food and beverage industry."
has evolved to assist entrepreneurs in addressing challenges such as sustainability and unmet consumer needs
This year's Juntos Crecemos Edition continues the same fundamental goal: to foster the growth of entrepreneurs
"We are so honored to be selected as the winner of the PepsiCo Greenhouse Accelerator: Juntos Crecemos Edition," said Azul Couzens
"This program and the mentorship of the PepsiCo team have been invaluable in supporting our business objectives
we'll be able to continue our mission of sharing the flavors of Oaxaca through our line of mole sauces
About PepsiCoPepsiCo products are enjoyed by consumers more than one billion times a day in more than 200 countries and territories around the world
PepsiCo generated more than $86 billion in net revenue in 2022
driven by a complementary beverage and convenient foods portfolio that includes Lay's
PepsiCo's product portfolio includes a wide range of enjoyable foods and beverages
including many iconic brands that generate more than $1 billion each in estimated annual retail sales
Inc.'s (NASDAQ: PEP) virtual annual shareholders' meeting (the "Annual Meeting") will be webcast live on Wednesday
(NASDAQ: PEP) ("PepsiCo") today announced that it has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire poppi
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sprawling indoor and street markets in heavily indigenous Oaxaca
Here are the best markets in the region where you can find anything from one-of-a-kind artwork to locally produced coffee
© Culture Trip Book Oaxaca Market Tours Here Oaxaca City’s Mercado Benito Juárez
named after the first indigenous president of the country
is also one of the state’s most rightly popular and frequented indoor markets
the Mercado Benito Juárez is brimming with pre-prepared mole powders
the must-try at this labyrinthine market is the famous chapulín(grasshopper) tacos
Look out for the hand-crafted huaraches(leather sandals)
elaborately embroidered blouses and household adornments
and if you want to avoid the admittedly tourist-elevated prices here
simply stop for lunch at one of the numerous stalls that populate the Mercado 20 de Noviembre – the tasajois a must-try
© Culture Trip Not to be confused with Mexico City’s arguably more famous Mercado La Merced is Oaxaca’s equally named
Oaxaca’s iteration of La Merced is known for its mouth-watering Mexican food and antojitos– chilaquiles
plus freshly squeezed juice and a wealth of food stalls from which to choose
This place is ideal for a leisurely eating experience in Oaxaca
© Culture Trip Arguably the most famous Oaxacan market outside of the state capital is the Mercado de Tlacolula, situated just 45 minutes east of Oaxaca City. Now a popular tourist hot spot, there is, of course, plenty of local charm left at this Sunday food and craft market that’s been in operation
Hunt for handmade rugs from Teotitlán del Valle
and absolutely try some of the region’s mezcal
but don’t leave without trying the barbacoa
© Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd. All Rights Reserved.
It’s an unmissable invitation on Oaxaca’s riveting annual calendar
but I wanted to know: How did something so spectacular come to be
“It’s a very fertile valley area.” She explains that even though radishes are native to China
they were introduced to Oaxaca by the Spanish and soon grew like crazy
they were so plentiful that market vendors would carve them into rosettes to attract people to buy them
Soon these vendors were competing with each other
declared in 1897 that a radish-carving contest would take place each year on December 23 to celebrate the artisans' creativity and manage the crop
“This date didn't conflict with Christmas Eve or Christmas Day
but it still drew people in who were shopping,” Dr
Now a fully fledged festival blending creativity
The Night of the Radishes has expanded to include corn husk figurines known as totomoxtle
Pérez says the radishes are still the most prolific displays
although these spin-offs draw adherents of their own to compete for prizes as well
Akin to a county fair, Noche de Rábanos has become a significant source of pride for Oaxaca City residents like Andrea Hagan. A tour guide who teaches people about mezcal and gastronomy through her company Mezcouting
Hagan remembers how devastating it was when the traditional event couldn’t take place due to COVID-19
Though a smaller iteration was still organized in the town of Ocótlan to give radish revelers a much-wanted celebration that year
“Noche de Rábanos is as significant to us as Christmas is,” she says
applicants must actually be from the state of Oaxaca
an anything-goes “free” category and a “traditional” category with a mandate for everything to thematically relate Oaxaca State and its culture
Younger carvers are also invited to create fleeting masterpieces during a smaller contest that happens simultaneously
Despite months of preparation and toil—think of Rosario Vázquez rushing to a radish-related meeting 40 days out—the event boils down to just one day and a firework-filled evening
PATRICIA CASTELLANOS/Stringer/AFP/Getty ImagesJudgment nightThe rotating
esteemed panel of judges overseeing Night of the Radishes is composed of prominent people in the city
who are picked by the Secretary of Tourism
Pérez of SDSU’s Center for Latin American Studies
This includes previous champions such as Juan Manuel García Esperanza
earning him the title “Lord of the Radishes.” The hand-picked judges scrutinize aesthetic appeal
and technical brilliance—and make sure nothing synthetic has been used
or anything apart from toothpicks can hold the carvings together
Carvers continuously spray their radish kingdoms with water to avoid them looking parched
Some of the radishes have entire narratives carved into their flesh
he’s exhausted by the time the jury delivers its verdict
He remains on the edge of his seat from 5 am until around 7 pm
“The best prize is people recognizing the work,” he says
Long after winners are declared and the radishes begin to wilt, the feverish excitement persists. Fireworks displays, concerts, light shows, and culinary delights are still on offer for hours more. Shelley Marmor, the founder of Travel To Oaxaca and a Mexico travel expert who first attended Noche de Rábanos in the early aughts
suggests not going straight home after the top honors are announced
but don’t skip on side streets afterwards,” she advises
too.” Stroll the piñata-peppered calles and squeeze every last drop of artistic inspiration and excitement from Night of the Radishes until the stalls are fully dismantled the next morning
wait for it to begin again the following year
In early June before the start of the wet season
The rains wash away the finely settled dust of a stifling three-month stretch and replenish underground aquifers
the Central Valley’s rolling hills turn from beige to green and pricky pear cactuses erupt into fuschia across the mountainsides
the rains also signal the start of the fleeting chicatanas season
arrive for just a single day or two after the season’s first torrential downpour in early- to mid-June
Consumed since the pre-Hispanic times in several states of Mexico but most notably in Oaxaca
umami flavor and crunch they add to salsas and moles
fleeing the soaked earth and their flooded nests in search of new shelter
many Oaxacans rush to gather these round-bodied winged insects
Some harvesters swear by plastic bags to catch the flying insects mid-air
loading their rotund bodies one-by-one into a container while taking care to avoid their painful bite
the flat ceramic griddle that’s typical to Oaxaca
to smoke the wings off and prepare them to be packed and sold or enjoyed
whether atop order of guacamole at a casual comedor or on a tasting menu at one of Oaxaca’s culinary institutions
both for their ephemeral season and their richness of flavor
has taken place all over the world for centuries and is a pre-Hispanic practice in Mexico
Chicatanas were an important part of Mesoamerican diets
chicatanas are more of a cultural touchpoint and seasonal treat than an essential source of nutrients
and enjoying chicatanas a ritual that communities look forward to each year
chicatanas are no longer being enjoyed in the same quantities they once were
physical intervention that destroy the nest
and the commercialization that’s driven up their price mean that some Oaxacan communities are losing the ritual of eating chicatanas
there are a few responsible ways to enjoy these fatty
a sustainable Mexican provisions company which offers small quantity of chicatanas each year and publishes sourcing reports for all of their products
Hero image: Dante / Adobe StockThumb image: Ursula / Adobe Stock
the Central Valley\u2019s rolling hills turn from beige to green and pricky pear cactuses erupt into fuschia across the mountainsides
arrive for just a single day or two after the season\u2019s first torrential downpour in early- to mid-June
the flat ceramic griddle that\u2019s typical to Oaxaca
whether atop order of guacamole at a casual comedor or on a tasting menu at one of Oaxaca\u2019s culinary institutions
and the commercialization that\u2019s driven up their price mean that some Oaxacan communities are losing the ritual of eating chicatanas
Walking through the city’s colonial center
tall trees’ crowns explode in verdant glory
while vistas in the countryside are even more impressive
heavy with plenty of ears of the country’s most prized aliment
It’s the end of the rainy season here in this southwestern state
the humid period that typically runs from June until October
And after a disappointingly dry season last year
farmers and home growers across the region are celebrating the success of their milpa
and wild and domesticated greens growing all together in interdependent and symbiotic harmony
as in other agricultural areas of the country
the end of the rainy season is a time of celebration marked by the harvest of these crops
concluding in the colorful festivities of the Day of the Dead at the beginning of November
Corn is the most fundamental part of the diet here
typically eaten as a grain after the harvest’s most mature
starchy ears are dried and later ground with water into a basic masa
which can then be alchemized into tortillas
The harvest of the milpa represents the one time of year when fresh
sweet ears of corn can be enjoyed in season: plucked from the stalks and grilled over charcoal for warm elotes asados ready to be slathered in mayonnaise; stripped from the cob
ground into a paste and steamed inside the husks for fragrant tamales de elote; or
sopa de guías is one of locals’ favorite ways to enjoy the fruits of the long
the dish serves as a reunion for the crops that grew together in the milpa
various quelites – Mexico’s wide class of wild greens – and even the zucchini vines
which are peeled of their most fibrous parts and simmered down as an additional vegetable
With all the ingredients on hand right there in the milpa
the soup comes together in a matter of minutes
and is the perfect early fall lunch alongside warm tortillas and a few portions of tasajo
my mother made this soup often,” organic grower and farmers market vendor Raday Quero Cruz tells us as we pick our way through her productive milpa located about 40 minutes east of the city
stepping over cornstalks a recent storm tossed to the ground and taking care not to squash any light-green zucchinis
the milpa harvest meant that we had more food.”
Cruz, 60, has been a beloved fixture at Oaxaca’s weekly organic farmers market, El Pochote
she loads her stall with freshly steamed tamales
she has welcomed us into her kitchen to whip up a lightning-fast sopa de guías
After we gather the necessary ingredients from Cruz’s milpa
Cruz strips the fresh ears of corn of their husks and breaks them into rounds
“Super easy.” She transfers the corn into a soup pot
and the fragrant sweetness of corn fills the kitchen
slicing the larger zucchini into rounds and tossing the tiny ones into the pot whole
Cruz demonstrates how to peel the zucchini vines
breaking into them with her fingernail and stripping away the fibrous parts
along with zucchini flowers from which Cruz removes the pistil
she divided them into two categories: young and sweet
She grabs a couple of the ears of starchy corn
and tosses them into the blender with a little water for the soup’s espesado
because it’s tastier that way,” she comments
we thicken it with masa.” The espesado joins the other ingredients in the pot
the soup simmers for just a couple of minutes more
and voilà: We’re ready to tuck into this milpa-in-a-pot known as sopa de guías
As we sit down to deep earthenware bowls filled to the brim with soup
Cruz comments on the regional variations of the dish
sopa de guías is always thickened; while just a few miles away
the soup typically includes the little masa dumplings known as chochoyotes
whose little center dimple helps catch the broth much as orecchiette pasta cradles pasta sauce
sopa de guías is best enjoyed in the countryside
sweet flavors of the produce just plucked from the vine bring a surprising depth to such a simple
But city-dwellers struck with a craving need not despair
for the soup is easily found within Oaxaca centro
Located in the heart of the city center on a tranquil side street
El Fortincito (so named for its proximity to the mountain that keeps watch over Oaxaca
El Fortín) has been a favorite among locals since its opening in 1985
An eclectically decorated patio-style restaurant—the front room is Beatles-themed
while the back room is plastered with black-and-white photos of historical Oaxaca – El Fortincito offers solid presentations of classically Oaxacan dishes
at prices that have remained relatively unaffected by the city’s recent gentrification
Among the laminated menu’s offerings of enchiladas
you won’t find sopa de guías listed – but it’s always available; you just have to ask
The well-seasoned soup comes loaded with classic milpa ingredients
Served with a crispy tostada slathered with asiento (pork-rubbled lard left over from frying chicharrón) and sprinkled with mild queso fresco
the price is definitely right at 105 pesos
While the ingredients used in the soup aren’t quite as fresh and seasonal as those found in Cruz’s sopa de guías
El Fortincito’s version can be ordered year-round
making it the perfect holdover for anyone craving a taste of this harvest soup out of season