battle with China over an island paradise deep in the PacificKoror often feels like an extension of the United States Between the jungle and the lagoon are American flags Once the site of ferocious World War Two battles Palau is again at the epicenter of a geostrategic tussle while individuals and groups tied to China wage an intense influence campaign with money and land TextSmall TextMedium TextLarge TextShareXFacebookLinkedinEmailLinkPALAU Western Pacific - The brilliant blue waters thick foliage and bucolic atmosphere on this seemingly idyllic archipelago deep in the Pacific Ocean belie the key role it now plays in a titanic geopolitical struggle.Palau where brutal World War Two clashes once unfolded is again on the frontline as China and the United States and its allies prepare their forces in an intensifying contest for control over the Asia-Pacific region.The democratic island nation of just 17,000 people hosts American-controlled airstrips and soon-to-be-completed radar installations that the U.S military describes as “critical” to monitoring vast swathes of water and airspace It is also a key piece of the Second Island Chain a string of strategically located islets that America is fortifying in an effort to deny China access to the Western Pacific.Now that outsized strategic value has made Palau the target of a concerted influence campaign by individuals with ties to the Chinese government court records and land filings reviewed by Reuters as well as interviews with more than 20 diplomats and local law enforcement officials the once-sleepy island nation has been transformed into a hub of illegal activity money laundering and prostitution allegedly linked to Chinese individuals and syndicates This activity has brought with it a gruesome killing – including the transporting of a corpse in a suitcase – and a well-orchestrated kidnapping whose target is believed to be in a Chinese prison after having been forcibly smuggled out of Palau by boat.Some of these Chinese individuals have cultivated close ties to senior political figures on Palau according to two intelligence reports distributed to Palauan officials by the local U.S These individuals have also allegedly facilitated meetings between Chinese officials and Palauan politicians a Chinese official associated with the United Front Work Department the body that oversees Beijing’s foreign influence activities didn’t respond to questions about the alleged meeting.An effort also appears to be underway to block the expansion of U.S which include radar stations and airstrips built to service military aircraft A review of land records by Reuters reveals that Chinese businesspeople and Chinese-linked businesses have leased land overlooking or adjacent to some of these American military facilities.Joel Ehrendreich says China is using the same tactics in Palau that it has deployed elsewhere in the Pacific Sitting in an office packed with baseball memorabilia and Palauan carvings of dugongs he warns that Beijing is using organized crime to infiltrate Palau buy the backing of political leaders and establish a foothold on the island.As Palau's strategic value has increased so too has the interest of overseas investors in acquiring its land While foreigners can't purchase land in Palau Chinese businesspeople have leased hundreds of thousands of square meters throughout the archipelago REUTERS/Hollie AdamsIt's illegal for foreigners to make political donations but the only evidence my office has received is via anonymous sources.. Additional reporting by the Beijing newsroom and Eleanor Whalley Graphics by Jitesh Chowdhury and Vijdan Mohammad Kawoosa Our Standards: The Thomson Reuters Trust Principles., opens new tab ShareXFacebookLinkedinEmailLinkDo you have a news tip? , opens new tab Browse an unrivalled portfolio of real-time and historical market data and insights from worldwide sources and experts. , opens new tabScreen for heightened risk individual and entities globally to help uncover hidden risks in business relationships and human networks. © 2025 Reuters. All rights reserved The brilliant blue waters, thick foliage and bucolic atmosphere on this seemingly idyllic archipelago deep in the Pacific Ocean belie the key role it now plays in a titanic geopolitical struggle. Palau is again on the front line as China, and the US and its allies prepare their forces in an intensifying contest for control over the Asia-Pacific region. The democratic nation of just 17,000 people hosts US-controlled airstrips and soon-to-be-completed radar installations that the US military describes as “critical” to monitoring vast swathes of water and airspace. It is also a key piece of the second island chain, a string of strategically located islets that the US is fortifying in an effort to deny China access to the Western Pacific. Now, that outsized strategic value has made Palau the target of a concerted influence campaign by individuals with ties to the Chinese government, according to intelligence reports, police files, court records and land filings reviewed by Reuters, as well as interviews with more than 20 diplomats and local law enforcement officials. At the same time, the once-sleepy nation has been transformed into a hub of illegal activity, rife with drug smuggling, online gambling operations, money laundering and prostitution allegedly linked to Chinese people and syndicates. Some of those Chinese have cultivated close ties to senior political figures on Palau, making “donations” to some of them, two intelligence reports distributed to Palauan officials by the local US embassy showed. Those people have also allegedly facilitated meetings between Chinese officials and Palauan politicians. An effort also appears to be underway to block the expansion of US military installations on Palau, which include radar stations and airstrips built to service military aircraft. A review of land records revealed that Chinese businesspeople and Chinese-linked businesses have leased land overlooking or adjacent to some of those US military facilities. US Ambassador to Palau Joel Ehrendreich warned that Beijing is using organized crime to infiltrate Palau, buy the backing of political leaders and establish a foothold in the nation. In response, a spokesperson for China’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs said that claims that China is undermining Palau’s stability or interfering in its elections “are far-fetched, slanderous and completely fabricated nonsense.” Palau, which is geographically closer to China than any other Pacific Island nation, is also one of the few countries that formally recognize Taiwan. The Chinese government has spent decades successfully persuading countries not to recognize Taiwan. Speaking at a think tank in Sydney earlier last month, he addressed the issue of crime in Palau. “Drugs, human trafficking, all of these kinds of activities have a way of undermining the political structure,” he said. “Online scamming or gaming that happens, they end up influencing politicians and things that go on in Palau.” A tangled web of Chinese influence efforts and illicit activity emerged from US intelligence reports and other documents reviewed by Reuters, and from interviews with local law enforcement officials. Take Palauan Senate President Hokkons Baules, who has been one of the nation’s most vociferous advocates for China. “We want to go with China, because we need a lot of help with infrastructure,” Baules said, adding that Palau should drop its recognition of Taiwan. Baules has allegedly built relationships with Chinese investors, including a man named Sun Maojin (孫茂金), who runs a technology company that lists state-controlled research centers and universities in China as partners on its Web site. In November 2023, Sun flew to Palau with several associates and US$119,000 in cash, according to flight records, photos and three Palauan law enforcement officials. When Sun was questioned by customs officials for failing to disclose the money, Baules called one customs officer to ask for his release, and he was let go after paying a fine, the officials said. Palau’s Land Court has no record of a transaction between Baules and Sun. Corporate records showed that Baules’ family operates a local business called Fuji Restaurant, which Palauan authorities have linked to Chinese criminal activity. The family rented out space in the building between 2018 and 2020 to Chinese brothels masquerading as massage parlors, legal filings related to another case that were submitted by Palau’s anti-corruption office showed. Baules insisted the brothels were massage parlors. “It’s not my business, it’s their business,” he said of the Chinese businesspeople his family rented space to. The address of restaurant was also on a package of methamphetamine that was intercepted at Manila airport last year, which had a Chinese man in Palau as the intended recipient, Philippine news reports said. Baules dismissed the allegations, saying he was the target of a smear campaign aimed at ruining his name. He also has ties to prominent Chinese figures in the nation, including Hunter Tian (田行), the president of Palau’s Overseas Chinese Association, which promotes the interests of Chinese residents. Baules has leased land to Tian for a hotel Tian runs, land court records showed. In 2023, Tian participated in training courses in Beijing and Nanjing that were organized by the Chinese government for overseas Chinese leaders, promotional material from three pro-Beijing Chinese diaspora groups showed. The course was run by a group under the United Front Work Department. The US intelligence reports, one from November last year and the other undated, also asserted that Chinese businesspeople gave tens of thousands of dollars in cash to politicians ahead of elections last year in Palau. Wang Yubin, a Chinese citizen who is secretary of Palau’s Overseas Chinese Association, donated US$20,000 to former Palauan president Thomas Remengesau Jr, who was seeking another term, and gave US$10,000 to Raynold Oilouch, who was running to be vice president. Remengesau lost his race. Oilouch won and is now Palau’s vice president. Anti-corruption prosecutor Tamara Hutzler said that political donations by foreign nationals are illegal in Palau. Oilouch said he “never received a penny” from a foreigner for his political campaigns, while Remengesau said accusations that he had received donations from Chinese businesspeople were “ridiculous.” The US administered the country’s 300 or so islets for half a century after capturing them from Japan in World War II. The former colony won independence in 1994, but remains deeply tied to and dependent on the US. The connections to the US are particularly resonant in Palau’s southern islands of Peleliu and Angaur. Many of the 100 or so residents of Angaur have relatives serving in the US military. US law permits Palauans to enlist like Americans. In 2017, the US military announced plans to build radar facilities in Angaur and other Palauan islands. Later, it began redeveloping multiple airstrips. The facilities would allow the US to disperse its forces in anticipation of a strike by China on US strategic hubs such as Guam, and to monitor air traffic in the region without tying up ships or aircraft. Soon, Angaur began attracting attention from Chinese entities. Multiple media outlets reported that in 2019, Wan Kuok Koi (尹國駒), a former leader of Chinese triad 14K, visited Palau with the goal of leasing land on Angaur and opening a casino there. Foreign nationals cannot purchase land in Palau, but they can lease it for decades-long periods. In 2020, the US Department of the Treasury identified Wan as a leader of the triad and sanctioned him for leading an entity engaged in “corruption.” The sanction notice alleged that he was a member of the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference. A photo published in local media shows Wan meeting with Remengesau, who was president of Palau at the time. Remengesau said he was not aware of Wan’s identity during their meeting. Wan’s efforts were stymied when Palauan officials learned he was a triad leader, Remengesau said. Court records show that Chinese individuals have leased large swathes of communally owned land on Angaur. Tian has acquired roughly 280,000m2 of land on Angaur, including a large plot abutting the nation’s airstrip. The US subsequently announced plans to develop a radar station next to the airstrip. Another set of land registry documents show that an investor named Zhuang Cizhong leased a further 380,000m2 of land near the airstrip. Zhuang acquired the land after the US announced its development plans. Lease records and interviews with environmental regulators also revealed that a company connected to the Prince Group, a Chinese-Cambodian conglomerate, has acquired an islet near a new US coastal monitoring station in the Palauan region of Kayangel. Lease records and a visit to the site showed that another company connected to the Prince Group is also developing a piece of land near Palau’s airport, which the US uses for military exercises. Corporate filings show the local agent in Palau for one of these companies is Rose Wang, a former vice president of Palau’s Overseas Chinese Association, one of the reports said. Ehrendreich said the leases were almost certainly strategic. The land lease tactic was “how they maybe are able to keep an eye on what we’re trying to do here,” he said. Notifications can be managed in browser preferences. Palau has close ties with the U.S. but China is reportedly looking to change that with campaign of influence, James Liddell reports I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice A tiny island nation in the middle of the Pacific Ocean is the staging ground of a major geopolitical tussle Palau is made up of more than 340 coral and volcanic islands perched on the Kyushu-Palau Ridge, dotting Micronesia’s edge. It is geographically closer to China than any other Pacific Island nation and still formally recognizes Taiwan. And now it is on the front line of a battle for influence, with China on one side and the U.S. on the other. The former colony, which won independence in 1994 from the U.S.-administered United Nations Trust Territory of the Pacific, is home to approximately 17,000 people. It holds close ties to the United States, with Washington providing aid and defense support to Palau while its citizens can live and work in the U.S. It was one of the few countries spared Trump’s sweeping tariffs. And it plays host to American-controlled airstrips with a soon-to-be-completed long-range radar system that could become critical for keeping an eye on Chinese activities. But Reuters says its investigations have found evidence of a concerted influence campaign by individuals with ties to the Chinese government, aimed at preventing the U.S. from expanding its military infrastructure on Palau. Joel Ehrendreich, the U.S. ambassador to Palau, says China is using the same tactics in Palau that it has deployed elsewhere in the Pacific. “We’ve seen the playbook over and over again throughout the region, and it’s been very effective,” Ehrendreich said. “Get in with predatory investment, corrupt officials through elite capture, and try to destabilize the society through drug and human trafficking and other crime. And it’s easy to do when you go one by one through these little countries that you can overwhelm.” China has strongly pushed back on the claims. Palau’s strategic position puts it in a prime spot for a geopolitical tug-of-war, chief executive officer at the United States Studies Centre in Sydney Dr Michael Green explained. “These small islands that few people know about suddenly become the objects of major strategic competition,” he told the Guardian last November. The Trump administration is no stranger to attempting to exert influence on islands while competing with rival powers - Greenland has famously been in the U.S. president’s crosshairs since he returned to power in November. In March, China touted efforts to deepen co-operation between Beijing and Greenland despite Trump’s bluster. Reuters now claims that Chinese efforts to influence the future of Palau run deep. The news agency has reviewed intelligence reports, police files, court records and land filings, and conducted interviews with more than 20 diplomats and local law enforcement officials as part of its investigation. U.S. intelligence reports state that people from China allegedly linked to illicit activity—including drug smuggling and prostitution—are attempting to foster relationships with senior Palau officials. They have been accused of making donations to court the island’s political figures and attempting to facilitate meetings between Chinese and Palauan officials. Tamara Hutzler, the country's anti-corruption prosecutor, said political donations by foreign nationals are illegal in Palau. “The only evidence my office has received is via anonymous sources,” she said. “Everyone knows foreigners give money, but without evidence our hands are tied.” “The corruption is just pervasive,” added Hutzler. It is tough to combat, she said, in part because law enforcement lacked resources. Meanwhile, Chinese businesspeople have leased land near some of the U.S. military facilities, including radar stations and airstrips, according to land records. Foreign nationals cannot purchase land in Palau, but they can lease it for decades-long periods. Ehrendreich believes the leases were almost certainly strategic. “All around there are various plots of land that are now being leased to Chinese interests,” the ambassador said. “I don’t think it’s any coincidence at all that it happens to be physically close to our projects.” The land-lease tactic, he said, was “how they maybe are able to keep an eye on what we’re trying to do here.” A spokesperson for China’s foreign ministry told Reuters that the claims that China is undermining Palau’s stability “are far-fetched, slanderous, and completely fabricated nonsense.” “Who is building military bases in Palau? Who wants to turn Palau into a strategic military outpost?” they added. “We urge the U.S. side to stop smearing and slandering China … and stop provoking trouble in the region.” Asked about Palau’s relationship with Taipei, the Chinese foreign ministry spokesperson urged countries that “still maintain so-called ‘diplomatic relations’ with the Taiwan region not to be blindly arrogant and stubborn.” Surangel Whipps Jr., Palau’s president, has expressed support for the U.S. In February Whipps Jr invited Donald Trump to go snorkeling with him to highlight the climate change challenges Palau faces. And in his first presidency, Trump brought three Pacific Islands leaders to the White House to engage on security issues. “What Palau sees as important is a strong United States that's able to continue to be strong, is good for Palau and good for the planet," Whipps Jr said earlier this month. The Palau president did not respond to a Reuters request for comment on the allegations of Chinese influence. But speaking at a think tank in Sydney, Australia, earlier this month, he did address the issue of crime on the island: “Drugs, human trafficking, all of these kinds of activities have a way of undermining the political structure. “Online scamming or gaming that happens, they end up influencing politicians and things that go on in Palau.” Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies govt and politics"},{"score":0.78942,"label":"/society/crime/personal offense"},{"score":0.753472,"label":"/law govt and politics/armed forces"},{"score":0.702445,"label":"/law govt and politics/politics"},{"score":0.648977,"label":"/law govt and politics/government/government contracting and procurement"},{"score":0.633222,"label":"/business and industrial/business operations"},{"score":0.595842,"label":"/law faces to keep a tiny Pacific island out of China’s grasp","description":"Palau has close ties with the U.S but China is reportedly looking to change that with campaign of influence This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks The action you just performed triggered the security solution There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page Local fishers in Palau have formed a co-op to save their declining fish populations and prevent illegal fishing an estimated additional 10,000 metric tons of fish will be required just to meet Micronesia’s domestic needs for food The only way to support this demand is to help communities companies and countries work together to make the region’s fisheries more sustainable Over-fishing is critically degrading marine ecosystems and putting Palau’s traditional way of life at risk Fishermen in the northernmost waters of the Republic of Palau began noticing that fish were getting smaller and each trip was landing fewer fish The Nature Conservancy began working with local fishermen to assess the condition of important food fish stocks Two-thirds of the fish being caught are small juvenile fish who have not yet reproduced This is no way to maintain the fish population The gravity of this problem is what brought the Northern Reef Fisheries Cooperative together It will take joint efforts to bring about change in Palauan waters The cooperative aims to recover fish stocks and sustainably manage fisheries to benefit local communities and protect marine resources and biodiversity If you want to be part of the solution, please support our work. Subscribe to The Recordpublished some of the stolen information on Friday. In a statement, the Health Ministry confirmed that patient data was compromised as result of the cyberattack and may include billing summaries for Belau National Hospital patients between from 2018 to 2022 phone numbers and data on diagnoses and procedures were likely exposed “Based on the kind of information that has been stolen MHHS and its cyber advisors do not perceive any significant impact to the security of individual Palauans,” officials said MHHS recommends that all Palauans remain vigilant against potential fraud and/or phishing emails that may attempt to use this incident as a means of getting you to release personal information.”  The country’s government was targeted during another ransomware incident in April 2024 by actors claiming to be part of several different cybercriminal groups leading officials and experts to theorize that the attack was cover for an attempted disruption by Chinese government hackers On Monday, the group took credit for a ransomware attack on Utsunomiya Central Clinic, a prominent cancer hospital in Japan. The clinic reported a ransomware incident two weeks ago that forced it to limit its medical examination and checkup services The hospital said the information of up to 300,000 people was stolen by the gang In addition to its attacks targeting healthcare institutions, Qilin hackers have in recent weeks targeted a local government in the U.S. and a large company managing dozens of local newspapers across the U.S.  is a Breaking News Reporter at Recorded Future News. Jonathan has worked across the globe as a journalist since 2014. Before moving back to New York City, he worked for news outlets in South Africa, Jordan and Cambodia. He previously covered cybersecurity at ZDNet and TechRepublic. © Copyright 2025 | The Record from Recorded Future News DestinationsPlanningInspirationShopSearch SavesOpen main menuAustralia & PacificPalauShop Palau Back to topAttractionsMust-see attractionsBelau National Museum & Bai This little museum features exhibits from all eras of Palauan life Badrulchau Stone Monoliths If you want to see the 'Easter Island of Micronesia' bookmark this archaeological site located at Babeldaob's northernmost point Airai Bai Palau's oldest bai (men's meeting house) is over 100 years old with a steeply pitched roof reaching a height of 12m Kaigun Sho Babeldaob's most impressive WWII site used as a communication centre by the Japanese during WWII Melekeok Bai This elegant bai (men's meeting house) stands in superb isolation up a hill in Melekeok Palau Community College Bai Your first encounter with a bai (men's meeting house made of wood and thatch) will probably take place in the grounds of Palau Community College Ngatpang Waterfall Make a beeline for this little jungle waterfall that drops into a broad pool It's only a five-minute walk down the main road Palau National Capitol View more attractionsArticlesLatest stories from PalauRead more articlesFilter by interest: Adventure TravelArt & CultureBeaches, Coasts & IslandsFood & Drink All Interests Adventure Travel Art & Culture Beaches, Coasts & Islands Food & DrinkCruise These next-level travel gifts might be out of reach, but hey, you never know. No part of this site may be reproduced without our written permission president of the tiny Pacific island nation of Palau wants more countries to join him in calling for a moratorium on deep-sea mining aims to extract sought-after minerals like copper cobalt and rare earth metals from the deep seabed As global interest in deep-sea mining grows nations have been divided on whether to allow the industry to proceed Advocates say the industry could procure critical minerals for “green” technologies like electric batteries and provide economic benefits for Pacific nations dealing with sea level rise and other impacts of climate change Critics say it would cause large-scale and irreparable destruction of the seabed and surrounding marine environment and that seafloor minerals aren’t necessary for renewable energy technologies and other commodities are making plans to mine the seabed in their territorial waters and along their extended continental shelves Japan has said it’s preparing to mine by the late 2020s Plans are also underway to mine in international waters areas beyond the jurisdiction of any one nation Delegates to the International Seabed Authority (ISA) the U.N.-mandated regulator of seabed mining in international waters have been working to finalize a set of rules that would determine how mining exploitation could proceed exploratory mining operations have already begun has said it intends to submit a mining application for the exploitation phase within a year — possibly before rules are in place the ISA’s 170-member assembly has not officially discussed a moratorium or precautionary pause a position that has garnered a mixture of criticism and support who grew up spearfishing with his father to gather food for their family said he believes the ocean should be a resource for everyone and that we need to manage it responsibly through good stewardship he said he believes there should be stronger unity among Pacific nations some of which support deep-sea mining or are pursuing seabed mining projects in their territorial waters “[W]e share one ocean,” Whipps told Mongabay “we’re asking that we do what is right.” This interview has been lightly edited for length and clarity Mongabay: I know Palau was one of the first countries to call for a moratorium on deep-sea mining in international waters Why was it important for Palau to take this stance Palau is 99% ocean and less than 1% land mass so we like to consider ourselves a big ocean state It’s our history and our legends about our origins so it’s very much a part of our life One of the things that Palau is well known for is being a leader in conservation and protection of the oceans we’ve taken a stand on 30% protected That’s something that we encourage the whole world to do as part of the High Level Panel [for a Sustainable Ocean Economy] started in the early 2000s what we call the protected areas networks where we preserve 30% of the nearshore resources This comes from our culture of using resources sustainably and ensuring that we can continue to pass them onto the next generation — that culture and upbringing of having the bul. The bul is our management or conservation of our oceans Our chiefs in the olden days would see that in an area our reef was being overfished or our forest was being abused or we’re going to close it down until it has a chance to rejuvenate and then you can go back to harvesting.” That’s what sustained us for thousands of years that it’s important that we have a precautionary pause or moratorium [on deep-sea mining in international waters] until we fully understand the impacts of what is being done We’d like to encourage people to use other alternatives like going to waste dumps and pulling out those [critical] materials needed for batteries I don’t think at this time we need to rush into ripping up the deep sea that could have irreversible consequences And for an ocean country with islands that are sinking — and as islanders — this is something that we need to be very cautious about and that’s why we’re asking the world for a moratorium so it’s not an issue for us within our EEZ [exclusive economic zone] which is something that belongs to all of us as humankind We should proceed with caution and really remember that ultimately we need to hand off something better than what we received to the next generation Mongabay: What does the ocean mean to you personally Whipps Jr.: When my father came back from college “I’m not working for this copra [processing facility] anymore.” And he told my mom “I’m just going to be a fisherman.” So he was a fisherman for several years and also took tourists out diving we would go spearfishing in the early morning and catch a Spanish mackerel and trevally for food should be something that’s available to everyone it’s something that’s always there It’s like having your refrigerator in case you’re starving: you can always go there and have something to harvest and take care of your family And you should never take that away from everybody That’s why Palau has the practice of the bul to ensure that we sustainably use the ocean our lives [and the ocean] are very much intertwined We can’t be prosperous or live healthy lives without the ocean Mongabay: You mentioned how Palau has banned deep-sea mining in its national waters but why is Palau calling for a moratorium on deep-sea mining in international waters and not an outright ban What we’re saying is at least give scientists — and us all — time to really study it we’ll all realize that it should be a ban or [we’ll learn] if there’s a way it can be done safely and the integrity of the deep is protected we prefer that the deep sea stay intact because there’s biodiversity down there that we don’t understand and we don’t know the impacts of destroying We do know that the ocean is the largest carbon sink and disturbing it could have critical impacts on our entire planet And we truly believe that healthy oceans mean a healthy planet Mongabay: I know you attended the ISA meetings this July and August with Leticia Carvahlo elected as the new secretary-general Do you think that her election signals a new era for the ISA Whipps Jr.: I think one of the critical things that needed to be decided at this annual meeting was who would lead the ISA there should be a time that we need change So having a new secretary-general was important I think [Carvalho’s election] sent a very clear message that we need somebody that’s objective that can represent the world — and help restore integrity transparency and good governance so that we can trust the organization in ensuring that the interest of humankind is first and foremost in all that they do Lodge launched his candidacy again under a different country he was the British nominee for eight years and now he comes back and is another country’s representative And that just didn’t meet the spirit of why there was a rotational process and why we should have different people leading the organization The interest of the world or humankind was not being addressed [with Lodge’s attempt to stay in office]; it was more self-interest We want to ensure that that office is [filled by] somebody that’s there to represent the world and make sure that the interest of humankind is protected Mongabay: Do you think that calls for a moratorium are being heeded at the ISA Surangel S. Whipps Jr.: Two of us started with this call at the U.N. Ocean Conference in Lisbon: it was Palau and Fiji I think we were up to 27 [countries calling for a moratorium or precautionary pause] and after the meeting I think the world is beginning to understand the importance of the deep sea and why it’s important that we don’t rush into something that could be catastrophic and irreversible The good news is that there’s 10 of the Pacific Island countries now that are opposed to deep seabed mining That’s 10 out of 18 Pacific Island Forum countries which is critical because we share one ocean but we know they travel all the way to the eastern Pacific we’re asking that we do what is right We should really look at things and make sure that what we do is in the best interest of everyone Mongabay: Are you concerned about deep-sea mining plans in some Pacific island nations’ EEZs because we share one ocean — but they are sovereign countries They have control over their own EEZs and they have their own sovereign rights But we would like to ask them to proceed with caution … and really do the proper research to ensure the safety and protection of our oceans for all of us Mongabay: How would you like to see the high seas — areas beyond national jurisdiction — managed in the future Whipps Jr.: The high seas have unlocked potential and they belong to all of us — all of humankind — and they regulate our climate They’re so critical to the whole ecosystem that we live in And it is a responsibility of all of us to be good stewards That’s why we signed on to the BBNJ: to make sure that we protect those critical habitats to ensure that we have the biodiversity to pass on to the next generation If we’re going to harvest any resource or exploit or do anything we should do it with the utmost understanding that it does not impact the biodiversity and the rich resources that we have down there These are things that all of humankind share together And I think if we understand that principle we should also jointly protect and ensure that we use [the ocean] wisely as good stewards of what we’ve been entrusted with Banner image: Clown fish in anemone. Image by Jayne Jenkins / Ocean Image Bank Elizabeth Claire Alberts is a senior staff writer for Mongabay’s Ocean Desk. Follow her on Twitter @ECAlberts Palau is the first nation to ratify treaty to protect high seas The “fortress conservation” model is under pressure in East Africa as protected areas become battlegrounds over history and global efforts to halt biodiversity loss Mongabay’s Special Issue goes beyond the region’s world-renowned safaris to examine how rural communities and governments are reckoning with conservation’s colonial origins and trying to forge a path forward […] Surangel Whipps Jr also strongly backs Australia’s bid to host a UN climate conference The president of Palau has delivered a pointed barb at Peter Dutton while strongly backing an Australian bid to host a UN climate conference on behalf of the Pacific arguing that it would boost regional solidarity and he would be “deeply disappointed” if the attempt was abandoned under the Coalition Speaking at a renewable energy conference in Sydney on Wednesday Surangel Whipps Jr described seeing two-thirds of an island in his archipelago country disappear under water in his lifetime “For those of us in the Pacific who have lived through storm surges rising ocean levels and increasingly high tides the phrase ‘water lapping at our door’ is not a metaphor or a punchline Whipps, who was re-elected as leader of the US-aligned western Pacific nation in November and is in Australia to speak at a Smart Energy Council conference on Thursday said it did not make sense to say Cop31 would cost billions – “maybe they need to retool the math” – and that whatever was spent should be seen as an investment Sign up for the Afternoon Update: Election 2025 email newsletter “It’s an investment in your Pacific brothers and sisters it’s an investment in ensuring that we have a healthy planet it’s an investment in ensuring that we build that Pacific solidarity and partnership that we need to have,” he said “Australia is the biggest island in the [Pacific Islands Forum] and needs to take that leadership role and I’m hoping that the Australian public will continue to support us I know it’s easy these days to look inwardly and any dollar spent sometimes we think is a waste of money and it’s important that we scrutinise – but at the same time let’s be fair and use facts and really weigh the benefits.” Palau is an archipelago of more than 500 islands north of West Papua and east of the Philippines with a population of about 20,000 It is due to host a Pacific Islands Forum meeting three months before next year’s Cop Asked what its people would think if Australia decided not to bid for the event after three years of lobbying under Labor Whipps said: “I think we would be deeply disappointed.” He said countries in the Pacific were a “civic family” and Australia was like “an older sibling who is taking the lead and supposed to be caring for all of us” “We have common challenges and it’s so important that we support each other in whatever endeavours that we’re doing,” he said It is not clear which city would host the event if the Pacific were successful. The South Australian government has launched a campaign that it should be in Adelaide suggesting it would draw more than 30,000 people and could be worth $500m to the state Free daily newsletterOur Australian afternoon update breaks down the key stories of the day, telling you what’s happening and why it matters Read moreHe said much of the Pacific still relied on diesel generators for electricity Palau gets about 20% of its power from solar energy but Whipps said it would need support to expand further and overcome challenges in integrating it into their system “I think it would be fantastic to push for 100% renewable energy in the Pacific,” he said “We know the cost of diesel for us is much higher than coal “If we can have renewable energy at competitive rates to coal as you have already demonstrated is possible in Australia Some critics have said Australia should not host a Cop31 due to it being one of the world’s biggest fossil fuel exporters Whipps said his view was that countries that sold coal and gas were meeting a global demand and if they wanted to host a climate summit “we should embrace them and we should help them because they’re trying to be part of the solution” “It’s a good thing that Australia will be willing to host because this is their opportunity to lead and show the world that there are alternatives,” he said he urged whoever was leading the Australian government after the election “to take the next steps and stop approving new fossil fuel projects and accelerate the phase-out of coal and gas” Whipps said if the bid were successful he hoped a “Pacific champion” would be appointed to promote the region and the challenges it faces as the planet heats including the importance of what is happening in oceans “We should look at how we can ensure that we have these healthy oceans which are so critical to the survival of the planet,” he said last month said Labor hoped to host a climate summit and he would have “more to say about that in the campaign” Vice-President and Minister for Justice of Palau her country celebrates 30 years of independence  Underscoring the critical role of women she highlighted the first-ever “Meeting of Women in Elected Leadership” Palau has undertaken initiatives that empower women in their traditional roles enabling them to scale their entrepreneurial ventures and raise their profiles  These efforts give women a pathway into entrepreneurship and business  Noting that food security is central to Palau’s long-term resilience she pointed to the national goal to reduce food imports from 80 per cent to 60 per cent by 2030 we not only preserve our traditions but also combat non-communicable diseases linked to overreliance on imported Palau confronts unique challenges that threaten its economic development adding that these countries bear the brunt of the climate crisis  Palau has experienced more intense storms and landslides and prolonged droughts are becoming the new normal  The ripple effects of global climate disasters have caused the cost of imported goods to skyrocket further jeopardizing the country’s food security and economic stability  “The global response to climate change is a matter of life and death,” she stated  Sea-level rise is one of the most urgent challenges for small island developing States as they sit just a few meters above sea level leaving them vulnerable to coastal erosion  “This is not only a present threat but an existential crisis for future generations,” she cautioned spotlighting national steps to relocate critical infrastructure — including a hospital and schools — to protect people from rising waters and climate-related disasters Palau’s National Adaptation Plan prioritizes immediate and long-term actions to build resilience focusing on protecting vital ecosystems and sustainable development noting her country’s commitment to reducing carbon emissions and transitioning to renewable energy wind and ocean energy provide opportunities to reduce reliance on imported fossil fuels and secure a cleaner Palau plays a vital role in shaping global ocean governance citing the 2025 UN Ocean Conference in Nice as “a pivotal moment” for accelerating ocean action  Palau has also declared a national moratorium on deep-sea mining reaffirming her country’s unwavering commitment to preserving marine ecosystems Listen to and download the full statement in mp3 format. UN PhotoPrevious sessionsAccess the statements from previous sessions. Reporting by Kirsty Needham; Editing by Raju Gopalakrishnan This work, CAT Palau Mentorship Program Empowers Palauans with In-Demand Trade Skills, by PO1 Andrew Waters, identified by DVIDS, must comply with the restrictions shown on https://www.dvidshub.net/about/copyright This work, U.S. Indo-Pacific Command officials, Republic of Palau representatives strengthen relationships at Joint Committee Meeting in Honolulu, by Shaina Marie ONeal, identified by DVIDS, must comply with the restrictions shown on https://www.dvidshub.net/about/copyright This work, DoD team meets with Palau leaders; provides updates on design of 
Malakal Wharf improvement project, by Catherine Cruz-Norton, identified by DVIDS, must comply with the restrictions shown on https://www.dvidshub.net/about/copyright Today's print edition Home Delivery thick foliage and bucolic atmosphere on this seemingly idyllic archipelago deep in the Pacific Ocean belie the key role it now plays in a titanic geopolitical struggle where brutal World War II clashes once unfolded is again on the frontline as China and the United States and its allies prepare their forces in an intensifying contest for control over the Asia-Pacific region.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-1499653692894-0'); }); The democratic island nation of just 17,000 people hosts American-controlled airstrips and soon-to-be-completed radar installations that the U.S military describes as "critical” to monitoring vast swathes of water and airspace a string of strategically located islets that America is fortifying in an effort to deny China access to the Western Pacific In a time of both misinformation and too much information quality journalism is more crucial than ever.By subscribing Your subscription plan doesn't allow commenting. To learn more see our FAQ Sponsored contents planned and edited by JT Media Enterprise Division. indispensable guide to what Trump’s second term means for Washington follow the latest on tariffs and executive orders Stay on top of the latest events in US politics with the FT’s trusted and impartial coverage Insight and analysis on US politics from commentators such as Ed Luce and James Politi This subscription does not include access to ft.com or the FT App Essential digital access to quality FT journalism on any device Complete digital access to quality FT journalism with expert analysis from industry leaders Terms & Conditions apply Discover all the plans currently available in your country See why over a million readers pay to read the Financial Times found a unique way to connect with the tiny Pacific Island nation: through the shared love of “America’s pastime.” With a population of fewer than 20,000 people Palau has been playing baseball for 100 years and the sport has been part of the country’s culture ever since Palau has its own major league composed of eight teams as well as a national team and various youth baseball and softball teams.  Embassy Koror hosted American-Palauan baseball player Bligh Madris and U.S sports commentator Jessica Mendoza for a sports outreach program engaging every school in the country the first Palauan to play in Major League Baseball expressed keen interest in supporting women’s sports in Palau meetings with military veterans living in Peleliu and schoolchildren and visits to Bloody Nose Ridge and Orange Beach the two sites of one of the bloodiest battles of World War II They also met with President Surangel Whipps Jr. and Madris presented him with a signed bat giving Palau’s citizens unique access to the envoys The program’s highlight was at Asahi Stadium where Madris and Mendoza conducted outreach sessions for hundreds of Palauan children The envoys’ visit has had a lasting impact boosting the embassy’s social media following and resulting in a donation of sports equipment to Palau’s women’s softball team Jack Chesbro is the public affairs officer and consular chief at Embassy Koror The government of the world’s smallest countries has showcased a prototype of a blockchain-based savings bond system an Asia-Pacific island nation with a population of just 18,000 people has unveiled the prototype of a blockchain-based savings bond system to be named ‘Palau Invest’ The prototype’s public debut follows the announcement just under three months ago that Japan-headquartered fintech company Soramitsu was working on a system to issue manage and operate savings bonds using blockchain technology in an initiative supported by funding from Japan’s government Soramitsu states that the prototype system has been revealed ‘to demonstrate to the public of Palau how the digital savings bonds can work is now launched so the people of Palau can learn about the system and educate themselves before bonds are issued by the Ministry of Finance of Palau’ After bond issuance criteria are finalised by the Ministry of Finance and approved by the Palau government digital savings bonds will be issued and ‘any Palauan citizen will be able to buy them from the comfort of their phone via a mobile app,’ according to the announcement which states that  ‘digital savings bonds give Palauan citizens a simple way to invest in their own country while earning yield from the benefits of those investments’ RELATED ARTICLE Pacific island nation partners Japanese fintech for blockchain bond issuances – a news story (18 July 2024) on plans for the use of blockchain for bond issuances in Palau Tourism is the biggest driver of the economy of Palau, which has the US dollar as its official currency across an archipelago comprised of about 340 islands, islets and atolls (of which just eight are inhabited). It is 30 years since Palau, which hosted a ‘Blockchain Summit’ in August 2023 became independent under a ‘Compact of Free Association’ with the US ‘Although US dollars are the circulating currency in Palau and banks in the US (such as those in Hawaii and Guam) absorb residents’ funds as deposits these funds are utilised in the mainland US rather than for economic growth or infrastructure in Palau,’ Soramitsu explained in the initial announcement of its assignment the Palauan Ministry of Finance plans to issue savings bonds to diversify methods of national finance and to use the absorbed funds for economic growth and infrastructure investments like bridges with the support of Soramitsu’s technology.’ Palau’s finance minister describes the launch of the prototype as “an important milestone in the Ministry’s broader effort to promote financial inclusion and innovation.” “One of our goals at the Ministry of Finance has always been to expand access to different financial tools and empower more citizens to invest in our nation’s development,” says Kaleb Udui Jr Palau’s president Surangel Whipps Jr also spoke at a launch event for the prototype saying that “the significance of this moment extends beyond the creation of a new financial product and digital platform” and that the initiative would enable the funding of “key projects… with capital sourced domestically.” “These projects are not just critical to infrastructure but they also generate spillover effects that ripple throughout and within our local economy,” he said and foster a more vibrant economic environment This initiative represents a broader effort by Palau to take greater control of its financial future – one where we determine the direction of our development and invest directly in our nation’s growth.” RELATED ARTICLE Unchained melody: finance ministries explore blockchain – a write-up of a session focused on blockchain at the Global Government Fintech Lab 2023 Tokyo-headquartered Soramitsu stated in July that it would be using Hyperledger Iroha blockchain technology – distributed ledger software from the Hyperledger Foundation part of the LF Decentralized Trust – for the Palau initiative Its new announcement describes the technology as ‘best in class’ and ‘more than capable of processing the transactional needs of everyone in Palau’ The company has set out benefits of using blockchain for a bond issuance and management system as including reduced operational costs and fees; and the prevention of counterfeiting Soramitsu has numerous other interests in the region with its July announcement in July stating that the company would also be working with the Central Bank of Papua New Guinea to conduct a central bank digital currency (CBDC) proof-of-concept and ‘aim to build a common platform for across the Pacific Island region using Soramitsu’s blockchain technology’ ‘As the Pacific Island nations each have relatively small populations and economies the burden of introducing and maintaining infrastructure for IT systems is significant,’ it stated at the time Soramitsu is aiming to develop an architecture that allows for a more cost-effective and efficient introduction of financial instruments like CBDCs and savings bonds by constructing a common platform using secure RELATED ARTICLE Blockchain bonds: digital issuance breakthroughs build buzz – a write-up of a webinar (convened by Global Government Fintech on 23 March 2023) asking: ‘Blockchain-based bonds: what potential for the public sector?’ (the write-up contains a link to a video recording The Japanese government funding for the Palau initiative comes from a Ministry of Economy Trade and Industry (METI) 2023 ‘Subsidy for Global South Future-Oriented Co-Creation Projects (Indirect Subsidy Project Related to the Survey on the Overseas Deployment of Infrastructure by Japanese Companies)’ supplementary budget our mission has always been to leverage cutting-edge blockchain technology to create meaningful change in the world’s financial systems,” said Soramitsu group chief executive and co-founder Dr Makoto Takemiya this week describing the Palau project as “testament to how we can apply decentralised technology to bring efficiency security and transparency to national economies.” “By working closely with the Ministry of Finance of Palau and Japan’s METI we are revolutionising how nations manage their finances and taking significant steps toward improving financial accessibility and promoting the wellbeing of citizens,” Takemiya added The World Bank started the ‘blockchain bonds’ ball rolling with the launch of bond-i – the first bond to be created transferred and managed through its life cycle using distributed-ledger technology (DLT) – in 2018 An aquatic adventure in the western Pacific island nation of Palau — home to over 300 islands — highlights the reward of protecting the planet’s marine ecosystems. Act one begins with a shiver of reef sharks parading along the edge of the reef just metres from me. A battery of black-striped barracudas enters from stage left, trailed by an enormous Napoleon wrasse and a school of canary yellow and white pyramid butterflyfish, seemingly unbothered by the volume of predators in their midst. During a brief interlude in shark activity, I spot a moray eel extending its head from a crevice in the reef, flashing its needle-like teeth as it opens and closes its mouth to pass oxygenated water though its gills. Waving my hand over a head of hard coral, a trio of Christmas tree worms suck their colourful fronds into the small burrows they’ve bored into their accommodating host. After a while we unhook and drift across a sublime slice of the reef festooned with corals in a riot of colours and textures. We pass several hawksbill turtles, while redtooth triggerfish are constant companions, their crescent-shaped tails trailing in the current as they flap their cerulean-blue fins in a mesmerising bird-like motion. With crystal-clear waters and deep-sea treasures to explore, diving is naturally one of the most popular activities in Palau.Photograph by Four SeasonsDivers’ delightClimbing back into the speedboat nearly an hour later, I wonder if I’ve peaked too early by spending my first morning in Palau diving Blue Corner, the pint-sized Micronesian nation’s most famous dive site. But my second dive that morning, at German Channel, is similarly spectacular. Blasted and dredged out of Palau’s barrier reef in 1908 during its German administration (1899-1914), the artificial channel has been reborn as a hangout for ‘big stuff’ including sharks, turtles and magnificent manta rays. I admire a pair of rays performing a hypnotic courtship dance on my second dive here, twisting and turning through the blue. Another reason for my exclusive access to Palau’s top dive sites is the Four Seasons Explorer, a luxury vessel launched in Palau in 2023 after two decades cruising the Maldives on liveaboard itineraries. Unlike a standard liveaboard with a fixed length of stay, this 128ft, three-deck catamaran with 11 guest cabins offers daily embarkations in its new island home, with speedboat transfers usually taking under an hour to reach its cruising location. The Explorer spends most of its weekly cruising itinerary in Palau’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rock Islands, a jewel box of some 400 emerald jungle-cloaked limestone islets rising from a dreamy palette of blue waters directly south of Koror island, Palau’s main commercial and tourism hub. Later in the week, at Turtle Cove, I’m captivated by a pair of electric clams emitting a bright white glow from reflective cells in their crimson lips. In Ulong Channel, on day four, I drift over a field of lettuce corals resembling giant green roses. Later that afternoon, I take a short speedboat ride to admire a collection of rock art painted under an overhang on Ulong Island more than 3,000 years ago. A deep respect for the environment and the interconnectedness of humans and nature is a cornerstone of Palauan culture, says Palauan guide Fonzareli ‘Fonzie’ Shickich when he meets me at Koror’s marina one morning to lead me on a tour of Babeldaob, Palau’s lush, sparsely developed main island that’s connected to Koror by bridge. It’s one of several activities that can be arranged during an Explorer stay. “Everything we do is linked to the tide,” explains Fonzie, who, with his easy smile and curly black hair tied up with a traditional carved-wood hair pin, has a different kind of charisma to the Happy Days character he was named after. “Babies are usually born at high tide — often pregnant women will hold on [if the tide is still coming in] for good luck,” he continues. “When someone passes away, the tide is usually going out.” The significance of the tide is even showcased on the Palauan flag, Fonzie adds, which features a full yellow moon rising above the blue tide. Here, Velma shares some of the stories behind the paintings covering its exterior. The battle scenes can be misleading, she says, explaining that ancient Palauan conflicts saw minimal bloodshed — wars were won by taking the head of a target on the enemy side. Peeking inside, I notice a fruit bat painted underneath the head of the door. “It’s a symbol of respect, because when a bat lands upside down, it’s in a position of submission,” Velma explains. Maintaining its rich cultural traditions, both tangible and intangible, hasn’t been easy for Palau. Following Imperial Japan’s 1914 annexation of Palau, Japanese migrants outnumbered Palauans by three to one by 1937. Palau went on to see some of the grisliest battles of the Pacific War fought in its territory, with only about 5,300 ethnic Palauans surviving the carnage. Another legacy of Palau’s Japanese era that’s outlasted its three decades of post-war US administration is its cuisine. Fresh local reef fish sashimi is a menu staple in the casual restaurants of Koror, and also makes several appearances on the Explorer’s international menu during my stay. A breakfast highlight, meanwhile, is ‘Kaali’s mama egg scramble’ — a Palauan family recipe shared by the eponymous member of the Explorer’s land-based staff. Disembarking the Explorer for the last time amid the trumpeting of conch horns, I leave Palau with a new appreciation for raw fish, island life and the power of environmental stewardship. Doubts grow over promises of financial support to resist Chinese pressure Palau -- The muddy gravel airstrip on Palau's Peleliu Island hacked out of tropical jungle by the Imperial Japanese Navy during wartime has seen few flights over the past 20 years the airfield has swarmed with bulldozers and excavators Marine Corps KC-130J aerial tanker landed to mark the runway's reactivation for military purposes for the first time since American forces withdrew in the closing days of World War II Here are some useful pages to help you get back on track: maps and infographics and an archive of more than 20 years of humanitarian information Browse open job opportunities in the humanitarian field Discover training opportunities in the humanitarian field The Barça futsal team came from behind at the Palau Blaugrana to take an important 5-2 win against Osasuna Magna Xota The visitors went ahead twice in the contest only for a Sergio González hat-trick and a brace from Dyego to give the home side the win The blaugranes started well with Antonio going close and Matheus also threatening but it was Osasuna who broke the deadlock Ligeiro picked up the ball in midfield and beat keeper Dídac with a well placed shot Barça bounced straight back and two minutes later they were level when Sergio González turned home a rebound to make it 1-1 Osasuna took it in their stride and Pachu made it 2-1 with an unstoppable shot on 13 minutes Once again Tino Pérez's team struck immediately when Dyego levelled the scores from the spot Just before half time Dyego struck again to make it 3-2 at the break The blaugranes took the momentum into the second half and Sergio González added his second to make it 4-2 on 28 minutes Osasuna threw everything at Barça but the home side held firm and Sergio González rounded off the win with his hat-trick in the final minute of the contest Palauan tourism official Lelly Obakerbau shakes her head and motions at the encroaching jungle that threatens to reclaim an ancient and largely unknown Pacific archaeological site the layers of the terraces will disappear,” she says while walking below the pyramid-like crown of one of Palau’s monumental earthworks “Palauans have to be proud of what they have from way back She is determined to spread the word about her country’s unique archaeological heritage shaped by humans over the course of millennia are the earliest expression of monumentality in all of Oceania By at least 2,400 years ago terraces were being sculpted into the volcanic landscape of Palau backbreaking work that would carry on for about 1,300 years Records show the monuments predate the World Heritage-listed giant stone moai figures on Rapa Nui – also called Easter Islands – in Chile and the megalithic basalt stone structures of Nan Madol in the Federated States of Micronesia the largest of approximately 445 islands that make up Palau is estimated to have been transformed by terraced hillsides Smaller earthworks were also built on the nearby islands of Oreor Ngerekebesang and Malakal in the archipelago located between the Philippines and Guam early inhabitants altered the landscape in a way that is without parallel in the Pacific reflecting a complex and well-organized society “For Palau to have been able to build so many huge monumental structures so early in time – before any other Pacific Islands – it really says that it was quite advanced,” said archaeologist Jolie Liston who has been studying the earthworks for more than three decades most of these ancient terraces are hidden under dense forest Archaeologists have recently been using drones fitted out with laser technology called light detection and ranging [lidar] to map the earthworks and boost their visibility to the public Lidar takes precise measurements of the earth’s surface by measuring the amount of time laser pulses take to bounce back after hitting the ground Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation Liston and her team surveyed 2,400 acres of terraced landscape in Aimeliik last year using drones “The whole point was to capture the full extent of the earthworks under the forest,” she said “I could only do a portion of Aimeliik state which is the area that we’re trying to have for tourism.” The lidar images will inform ongoing research and be used to create a three-dimensional model for a small museum in the Aimeliik visitors’ center It will allow local students and tourists to visualize the earthworks’ magnitude and be used for training of local tour guides Archaeological evidence suggests that the earthworks supported burial grounds fortifications and were used in ceremonies and rituals The terraces were also likely symbols to display individual chiefly or polity power Though a number of questions remain about their function and social significance the scale reflects a high degree of planning and specialized knowledge an archaeologist at the German Archaeological Institute said the monuments reshaped previous assumptions about prehistoric life not just in the Pacific islands but beyond “For the longest time there was this belief that humans were at the mercy of nature They made do with what they found,” said Kühlem who in 2022 announced the discovery of six skeletons on the summit of one of the monuments “This is such a dramatic example of how people reshaped – literally reshaped – an entire island.” Archeologists have been investigating the earthworks since the 1960s but the structures have not received the attention of other ancient sites in the Pacific “They never really caught attention and I think it's because most people don't pay attention to Micronesia,” she said “They're really paying attention to Polynesia Melanesia and Lapita [considered the first people to have settled in Melanesia].” One challenge in piecing together their origins and driving preservation efforts is that the earthworks do not feature prominently in Palauan oral history “Oral history in the Pacific is pretty much everything,” Liston said Drawing on historical writings and interviews with elders published a paper in 2012 that said that many Palauans were skeptical about their ancestors’ ability to build the earthworks in part because they didn’t appear in the oral traditions Elders did recount stories about a mystical time where terraces are depicted as steps linking the gods to heaven and earth But this was related to specific locations or individual features rather than a generic explanation of how or by whom earthworks were constructed Some have even speculated they were built by an early wave of settlers linguistic or genetic evidence suggesting that today’s population is not directly descended from the archipelago’s earliest inhabitants Exactly when and where the first Palauns migrated from is unclear but the most likely region of origin is considered to be Southeast Asia based on linguistic similarities and the evaluation of sea currents by the time of Western contact in the late 1700s the use and meaning of the terraces had been forgotten after centuries of abandonment as the population moved to stonework villages along the coastline “We’ve been trying to get the word out not just to the world but so that Palauan people realize how fabulous they [the terraces] are and will have more pride in their construction the architecture and want to preserve them,” she said efforts to preserve and promote the earthworks face a number of challenges: a lack of financial support and difficulties navigating the complex system of customary land ownership Environmental restrictions on burning in Babeldaob have also allowed the jungle to grow back unchecked over the past decade In her tourism role with the Aimillik government Obakerbau works on a small budget and with just two staff to raise awareness about the earthworks – something she admits is “very tough.” “I want historical and cultural heritage in my state Aimeliik to be more active,” she said adding that the government is now getting onboard “I’ve been trying to encourage the kids to do classes at the community college in tourism and archaeology because if you’re Palauan you have to know your places “You have to know what was happening back then and what is happening today.” Add your comment by filling out the form below in plain text Comments are approved by a moderator and can be edited in accordance with RFAs Terms of Use RFA is not responsible for the content of the postings be respectful of others' point of view and stick to the facts Learn more about island restoration → Our mission is to restore islands for nature and people worldwide Dive into the world of island restoration including the latest stories We partner with environmental organizations all over the world to help islanders achieve their vision of thriving, biodiverse islands and oceans. Our partnership with the Ebiil Society is especially fruitful–we’ve worked together to restore key sites in Palau where new generations are now learning about the power of indigenous science and mindful stewardship Her championship of environmental education has been essential to the flourishing of these Palauan projects and she continues to provide guidance and support to Island Conservation as we seek new sustainable futures for islands around the world Read our interview with Ann to learn more about the Ebiil Society and the incredible work they’ve been able to accomplish What inspired you to found the Ebiil Society Seeing the need to provide meaningful Belauan ways for our children to reconnect with their land and oceans–their home The Ebiil Society was founded to inspire their sense of gratitude and compassion towards their home and plant seeds of knowledge that returns responsibility towards what they care for The Ebiil Society manages Ngerkeklau where we worked together to remove invasive species What changes have you noticed in the environment Ngerkeklau is an ancient village full of magical stories and ancient artifacts–not to mention the biodiversity of old trees and birds and dugongs feeding around the islands’ seagrass Palau is a world leader in conservation and marine protection Why are they important to you and to the planet The Palauan islands provide important spaces for families and communities to enjoy along with places for us to teach our children about our reciprocal relationship with nature Palau is a place where we can learn from nature Indigenous science and traditional knowledge are essential to developing positive sustainable relationships with the natural world How does the Ebiil Society help nurture these relationships Belauan conservation is full of noble solutions embedded in how we use nature to support our lives by teaching children how to fish or farm or collect medicine they learn conservation at a higher level of consciousness that comes with respect for nature and its powerful ability to nurture us and teach us hard lessons when we choose not to care for it What is your vision for the future of islands imperiled by climate change and extreme weather It’s a losing game to focus on short-term adaptation that doesn’t address the main cause of the problem We have to unite as Pacifica to voice our concerns the planet might just go on without us humans Partnering with Ann Singeo and the Ebiil Society has enriched and empowered our work in Palau–and our relationship is a model for authentic community engagement on our projects around the world Join our newsletter to get updates from our team and make a donation today to support holistic island restoration Check out other journal entries we think you might be interested in How can your personal passion power global change We sat down with Island Conservation supporter Joe Bouchard to discuss surfing and restoring islands — and how his personal experiences shaped a deep commitment to the planet Read the tale of how Jemo and Bikar were restored and learn how they are islands of hope for RMI Travel like a local to Aotearoa New Zealand with one of our resident Kiwis' 5 favorite outdoor adventure spots Caren Loebel-Fried's new book tells the story of what it takes to save a species introducing a new generation to the conservation ethic that can save our planet We're using a cutting-edge new tool to sense and detect animals in remote locations This historic agreement aims to protect the marine and coastal areas of the Southeast Pacific Our projects to restore key islets in Nukufetau Atoll forecast climate resilience and community benefits in Tuvalu Read Coral Wolf's interview about the thrilling news of rare birds nesting on Kamaka Emily Raboteau‘s 2024 essay collection Lessons for Survival: Mothering Against the Apocalypse offers a unique view into our present moment Confronting the perils of raising two Black sons in New York City Raboteau situates contemporary life in the context of… Island Conservation and partners have published a new paper quantifying ecosystem resilience on restored islands Island Conservation is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit We use cookies to enhance your browsing experience We use cookies to help you navigate efficiently and perform certain functions You will find detailed information about all cookies under each consent category below The cookies that are categorized as "Necessary" are stored on your browser as they are essential for enabling the basic functionalities of the site We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze how you use this website and provide the content and advertisements that are relevant to you These cookies will only be stored in your browser with your prior consent You can choose to enable or disable some or all of these cookies but disabling some of them may affect your browsing experience Necessary cookies are required to enable the basic features of this site such as providing secure log-in or adjusting your consent preferences These cookies do not store any personally identifiable data Functional cookies help perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website These cookies help provide information on metrics such as the number of visitors Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with customized advertisements based on the pages you visited previously and to analyze the effectiveness of the ad campaigns School students in Palau are taking on the United States military with a legal complaint to the United Nations over a “rapid and unprecedented wave of militarization” in their Pacific island nation They allege that American military activities are destroying ecosystems and breaking laws that protect the environment and human rights The American military presence in Palau, an independent state in free association with the U.S., has grown in recent years amid mounting geo-strategic tensions with China over Taiwan and the South China Sea The archipelago’s location between the Philippines and Hawaii is part of a critical logistical network that allows the U.S to move through the western Pacific and project power in East Asia But the military buildup in Palau is stoking unease among some in the country of 20,000 people who worry their culture and pristine environment could be compromised said it was a “bit intimidating” standing up to the world’s most powerful military but it was important to inform people what was going on we should be able to have a say in this and think about what we want from our future,” she told BenarNews in the city of Koror Over the past year they travelled the length of the country visiting defense sites interviewing local communities and documenting environmental impacts Last month the students filed a submission to the U.N special rapporteur on the rights to a healthy environment and the special rapporteur on the rights of Indigenous peoples they alleged American military violations of environmental laws and indigenous rights in Palau The group is among a young generation of Pacific activists using international legal mechanisms to fight for their rights, such as law students from Vanuatu who asked the International Court of Justice to give an opinion on states’ obligations to combat climate change Palau is one of three Pacific island countries including the Marshall Islands and Federated States of Micronesia that give the U.S exclusive military authority in their territories in exchange for economic assistance under compacts of free association to justify a rapid and unprecedented wave of militarization throughout Palau,” according to the U.N The Palauan students’ complaint is focused on six U.S military sites spread between Palau’s northernmost tip and its southernmost edge including an over-the-horizon radar facility and a WWII-era airstrip being upgraded by U.S military had not undertaken adequate community consultation or obtained informed consent who conducted their research as a part of a social science class organized by the Ebiil Society “Most of the people we interviewed didn’t know about what was going on in their communities,” said 16-year-old Kimie-Maki Kelau Singeo said environmental and cultural protection laws were being “violated left and right" across Palau “It’s almost like they are bulldozing their way through the islands,” the veteran environmental advocate told BenarNews which oversees American forces in the region did not respond to multiple requests for comment for this story But Palau President Surangel Whipps rejected any accusations that environmental laws had been broken or that local communities had not been adequately informed about military projects Whipps acknowledged there were concerns about militarization in the community, but argued that for a small nation like Palau, which has been subject to “unfriendly behavior” by China “We’ve always been a target because of our location whether we like it or not,” he told BenarNews in an interview we were a target and that’s why Japan built all the infrastructure here and used Palau because of our location you need to make sure that you’re protected Our forefathers decided that the best relationship that we could have with the United States is in free association … but as partners submission is not the only complaint concerning U.S and Palau governments and American military contractors for alleged violations of environmental laws and the compact of free association for work on the receiver of a “Tactical Mobile Over-the-Horizon Radar,” or TACMOR The TACMOR’s accompanying transmitter facility is being built in the northern state of Ngaraard which has also accused the Palau government of deficiencies in the environmental permit process and requested approval to be rescinded a state legislator for Elab hamlet where the transmitter facility is located said the community of about 23 households was still largely in the dark about the potential environmental impacts She said there were fears that earthmoving might damage historical sites and affect sediment flows into the marine environment nearby “Some old people say there are ancient stone platforms here,” she told BenarNews looking out over the bay below where the radar will be positioned It’s unclear what impact the Angaur lawsuit or calls for a review of the permit in Ngaraard will have on the radar The U.S. radar system, which will add to American early warning capabilities for the western Pacific, is expected to bring economic benefits to the island including higher paying jobs and rental incomes. On the island of Peleliu, where U.S. Marines are revamping the Japanese wartime airfield, some local chiefs and former legislators are seeking an injunction against a proposed constitutional amendment concerning military activity in the state. Peleliu’s constitution currently requires the approval by 75% of residents in a referendum for any permanent military facilities to be built on the island or training to take place – a provision adopted after WWII.  Under the amendment, which was put on the ballot of a Dec. 3 state election, the article would be repealed and authority on military matters transferred exclusively to the governor and legislature, according to court documents reviewed by BenarNews. It also proposes reducing the size of the state government from 15 members to 11 and removing five seats reserved for traditional chiefs. Whipps described a lot of the criticism about U.S. military projects in Palau as “misinformation” and suggested it was possibly “another Chinese attempt to convince people that things are really worse than they really are.” But Singeo, from the Ebiil Society, said it was important to mobilize young people to fight for the “survival of a culture and nation.” “No matter how strong they are, how big they are, this is not their home,” she said. “For me as an adult, to not support the kids to do this is the same as condemning them to a future of chaos, conflict and keeping their head down not saying anything.” Add your comment by filling out the form below in plain text. Comments are approved by a moderator and can be edited in accordance with RFAs Terms of Use. Comments will not appear in real time. RFA is not responsible for the content of the postings. Please, be respectful of others' point of view and stick to the facts. 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We invite you to explore the current program voices Cor Infantil Palau VinclesCor Juvenil Palau Vincles there is no band right now in the Spain that represents the spirit of Pink Floyd than Echoes Of Pink Floyd With a line -up of 9 musicians that use all types of instruments on stage to recreate the sound of the English quartet lasers and sound effects that give to the audience all kinds of emotions In their debut at the Palau de la Música Catalana Echoes Of Pink Floyd will celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Wish You Were Here album with emblematic songs as Shine On You Crazy Diamond or Wish You Were Here itself and also playing  great classics of the band like Money etc...Echoes finds the fidelity of the sound that made Pink Floyd great Two hours of show that brings you to another era C/ Palau de la Música, 4-608003 BarcelonaT. 932 957 207[email protected] Monday to Saturday: from 8.30 am to 9 pm.Sunday and public holidays: from 8.30 am to 3.30 pm and 2 hours before the concert (for sale day). This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data. You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked. Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page. Reporting by Kirsty Needham in Sydney; Editing by Lincoln Feast This work, Joint Task Force-Micronesia visits Palau for Congressional meetings, Angaur’s 80th Liberation Day, by Shaina Marie ONeal, identified by DVIDS, must comply with the restrictions shown on https://www.dvidshub.net/about/copyright. Become a member Support us Sign up to newsletter Concert with screening of the film..Supertitled with posters in Catalan Organ improvisation on the silent film The Cabinet of Dr In a new edition of the traditional Halloween Concert the Palau de la Música will host for the first time the screening of the film The Cabinet of Dr considered the quintessential work of German expressionist cinema Based on this well-known film shot in 1920 the organist Juan de la Rubia will improvise live on the organ in the modernist hall to create a unique and singular soundtrack for all those spectators who wish to share Halloween night the Palau de la Música Catalana becomes an old screening room where we will enjoy one of the founding films of fantasy and horror cinema: The cabinet of Dr a standard expressionist film that has been very influential in the genre in the last hundred years We can find his aesthetic mark in the cinema of Tim Burton in the narrative of directors such as Alfred Hitchcock and in the shocking script turns of M The Palau is transformed into the most special screening room you can imagine without ceasing to be a temple of music This delicious filmic nightmare will be performed with the dazzling music of one of the best organ improvisers in the world: Juan de la Rubia he will surprise us with a range of motifs and twists from an enormous musical heritage C/ Palau de la Música, 4-608003 BarcelonaT. 932 957 207[email protected] Monday to Saturday: from 8.30 am to 9 pm.Sunday and public holidays: from 8.30 am to 3.30 pm and 2 hours before the concert (for sale day) Palau — Palauan Sharla Paules surveys the contaminated ground of her lush tropical home island of Peleliu still littered with WWII munitions 80 years after its liberation from the Japanese She recalls as a child her grandmother warning the land was poisoned by unexploded bombs disrupting almost every aspect of traditional life on the island “They said after the war the soil was so contaminated they couldn’t even plant food,” said Paules who is part of a team clearing the island for the mine action group Norwegian People’s Aid You still can’t plant tapioca and eat it here The United States fired more than 2,800 tons of munitions from the air and naval vessels on the Japanese-occupied island before making an amphibious assault in 1944 10,000 Japanese and an unknown number of Palauans died in the ensuing battle much of Peleliu’s southern edge is still littered with unexploded munitions rusting tanks and soldiers’ skeletal remains It’s a stark reminder of a Pacific-wide problem: the lingering legacy of unexploded and abandoned ordnance Paules’ colleague Roger Hess picks up a rusting Japanese grenade from the floor of the jungle while taking BenarNews on a tour of clearance work on the island It’s technically still live,” said the 65-year-old American army veteran brushing off the dirt and marking it with white spray paint for later removal Hess is the Palau operations manager for Norwegian People’s Aid and is preparing a clearance operation in the upper reaches of Umurbrogal Mountain jungle-covered coral ridges that was one of the main battlegrounds on Peleliu The Type 91 grenade held by Hess is not an unusual find in Palau but if you put it in a fire it will blow,” he said Teenagers fight US militarization of Palau with UN complaint over rights violations Patriot missile plan stirs debate in Palau ‘Respect our sovereignty’: Palau tells China The Micronesian nation is one of nine Pacific island countries contaminated by an unknown quantity of explosive weapons left behind by Japanese and Allied forces after WWII Although international awareness about the issue in the Pacific is lower than in landmine and cluster munitions hotspots like Cambodia or Africa’s Sahel region experts say potentially lethal munitions are scattered across the region’s lagoons These explosive remnants of war threaten not just human life hinder infrastructure development and leave land too dangerous to farm but that doesn’t mean there is no potential for it,” said Hess “Just look at the amount of munitions we’re pulling out; any of those mishandled can kill people.” Palau may not have seen a casualty for some time but other parts of the Pacific have not been so lucky In the Solomon Islands which witnessed heavy combat between Japanese and Allied forces on the main island of Guadalcanal two young men died in 2021 when an American 105 mm shell exploded in a residential area of the capital Honiara Raziv Hilly and Charles Noda were part of a group cooking over a backyard fire pit without realising the WWII-era projectile was buried beneath the ground While media reports occasionally highlight the deadly threat there are no formal systems in place to track accidents or gather comprehensive data on the extent of contamination in Pacific island nations according to nongovernmental organizations endorsed a regional UXO strategy that aimed to mobilize and coordinate efforts to tackle the problem But according to people familiar with the plan including two regional conferences in Palau and the Australian city of Brisbane little progress has been made in recent years The PIF did not immediately respond to BenarNews requests for an update on the strategy Experts say that poor data collection and coordination is preventing Pacific island governments from combating the deadly menace including accessing international assistance “There’s a lack of knowledge that this is important information that can help get funding to deal with the problem long term,” said Mette Eliseussen national coordinator at Australian nonprofit SafeGround which has done extensive surveys and clearance across the Pacific Pacific states have also been disadvantaged because international funding for ERW action is driven by two international treaties that cover landmines and cluster munitions neither of which were used widely in the Pacific in WWII so we will discriminate against you.’ That’s been the attitude until just recently,” Eliseussen told BenarNews the Pacific region saw an increase in funding for clearance of ERW Australia and Japan raised financial support for Solomon Islands and Palau and made new investments in Kiribati and the Marshall Islands according to the 2024 report produced by the Landmine and Cluster Munitions Monitor Eliseussen said geopolitical “tension with China” partly explained the renewed attention and additional resources for the problem in the Pacific Department of State provided Solomon Islands with $4.5 million for clearance $1.5 million for Palau and smaller amounts for Marshall Islands Australia and Japan needed to step up assistance to rid the Pacific of UXOs and take a long-term approach to funding He added that the Japanese in particular “should put their hands in their pockets and actually help clear this stuff up.” Since NPA began survey and clearance in Palau in 2016 it has found 10,844 ERW scattered across the country Hess could not say if Peleliu – with a population of about 500 people – would ever be free of ERW but based on the ferocity of fighting there were “probably still around 100 suspected hazardous areas.” the detritus of war was obvious to see – mortars NPA staff found the remnants of a suspected landmine outside a cave while accompanying Japanese personnel searching for soldiers’ remains “The biggest threat to public safety are white phosphorus munitions that were fired from 81 mm mortars,” he said referring to the incendiary weapons that ignite on contact with oxygen but such items are marked with yellow-tipped stakes and white spray paint and their GPS coordinates recorded for retrieval later that day they are moved to a makeshift storage facility near the Peleliu’s trash heap then transported to a disposal site on the nearby state of Koror The work is slow going – and decades late – but according to locals like Paules we saw a lot of [munitions] on the side of the street BenarNews is an online news outlet affiliated with Radio Free Asia Palau would not cave to diplomatic pressure from China and would remain an ally of Taiwan “until death do us part,” Palauan President Surangel Whipps Jr said yesterday As one of the few nations that recognize Taiwan’s statehood Palau has repeatedly risked China’s ire over the years by refusing to reverse its stance and that is for us to renounce Taiwan,” Whipps said during a speech at Australian think tank Lowy Institute “But we hope that they understand — that decision is a sovereign decision and no country tells us who we should be friends with.” you’re married until death do us part,” he said Whipps has overseen the expansion of US military interests since winning power in 2020 That included the ongoing construction of a long-range US radar outpost a crucial early warning system as China ramps up military activity in the Taiwan Strait Palau also plans to dredge sections of its commercial port making it deeper to allow more visits from US Navy ships That risked painting a target on Palau’s back there is concern that now we become a target,” he said “I think that’s why it’s important that the ports and the airports are upgraded so that we are ready to be protected if a conflict does arise.” we’re going to be a target for somebody,” he said A view from Babeldaob Island’s northern tip in Ngarchelong State A titan triggerfish swims by during a snorkel tour of the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon near Koror The “Palau Pledge,” committing to preserve the island nation’s natural resources Badrulchau stone monoliths appear on Babeldaob Island in Palau’s Ngarchelong State on Dec A view of neighboring islands from Koror Island The archipelago spans over 300 islands in the western Pacific A tourist makes his way toward Ngardmau Waterfall which can be seen in the distance on Babeldaob Island A woodcarver crafts a traditional Palauan storyboard an intricately designed piece of art that illustrates the island nation’s history and legends A snorkeler explores the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon near Koror A woman participates in a glassblowing workshop at Belau Eco Glass a glassblowing center that uses recycled materials 2024 at the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon near Koror some of the 1,500 fish species in Palau’s turquoise waters appear during a snorkel tour of the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon near Koror Jewelry from local sellers adorns stalls at 608 Night Market in Airai The bi-monthly event features live entertainment The Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge linking Koror Island home to nature attractions and historical sites a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising hundreds of uninhabited limestone islands near Koror are photographed during a snorkel tour on Dec Colorful earrings and vases crafted from recycled glass are displayed for sale in the gallery at Belau Eco Glass But what I discovered upon arrival was a destination eager to highlight something else: its rich culture on solid land “We’ve been known for our crystal clear water but there’s more to see,” says Sean Tekriu who welcomes visitors to Palau’s Badrulchau Stone Monoliths one of the many land-based attractions touted by tourism officials can be reached directly from several locations Australia; Guam; Hong Kong; Macao; the Philippines and Taiwan It’s best known for its underwater landscapes with 1,500 fish species and 400 hard corals Many visitors come to dive the historic wreckage — remains of the Japanese naval stronghold in the Pacific One of the most notable relics is Iro Maru 470-foot supply ship that rests upright with schools of lionfish and clownfish darting through its corridors My peaceful float was interrupted by a sudden sharp sting on my knee did I discover my likely attacker: The notoriously aggressive yellow-and-black Titan Triggerfish was caught in one frame artisans chronicle Palauan oral history through traditional carved wooden panels or take a class to learn how to craft their own “We have a passion for sharing our stories,” says McMichael Mutok Jr. who tries to preserve his country’s history through his work at the National Register which details how jealousy over a magical fish-sprouting tree led to it being submerged underwater along with an entire island a gallery and center for upcycled art at the Koror State waste management facility You can transform recycled trash into treasures at their glassblowing workshops or purchase ready-made pieces like delicate vases and vivid jewelry I left with a dainty pair of tangerine-colored earrings We also stopped by the bi-monthly 680 Night Market where performers join vendors and artisans for a lively mix of music crafts and souvenirs under the Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge I took in the ocean views from beneath the bridge which connects Koror Island — Palau’s commercial and dive hub — with Babeldaob Island home to natural landmarks and historical sites muddy jungle trail where hikers choose between a daring river crossing (a challenge I left to braver souls) or a drier route along the water’s periphery Trekkers are rewarded with a refreshing dip in the pools beneath the falls at the journey’s end History enthusiasts may want to explore the ruins of Kaigun Sho I walked through the remnants of a Japanese lighthouse; the panoramic Pacific views justified the trip we roamed the historic and serene terraces of Badrulchau Stone Monoliths include more than 34 columns believed to have once formed the foundation of a grand meeting house I found myself captivated by the site’s mysterious origins especially the local legends of a trickster god who fooled other gods into dropping stones across the country hopes that sharing stories like these through heritage-based tourism will help elevate Palau’s profile to rival that of Pohnpei’s Nan Madol or Easter Island’s moai “For tourists to come and learn about our history and people As the scene of one of the fiercest and most destructive battles of World War II it would be fair to assume that the people of Palau would harbor a degree of resentment toward Japan and the Japanese Islanders witnessed air and naval attacks in 1944 that destroyed infrastructure was devastated as Japanese troops fought the US invasion forces The damaged remains of the Japanese military’s communications headquarters on Palau But while other Asia-Pacific nations rarely overlook an opportunity to recall the indignities that took place during the years of Japanese colonial rule a century or more ago the relationship between Japan and Palau today is not affected by the scars of the past President Surangel S “You have to remember that we were not invaded by Japan but were a Japanese territory,” Whipps tells Nippon.com “Koror used to be called ‘little Tokyo,’ and 30,000 Japanese lived here “About 20 percent of our ancestry is Japanese and we have many things in common,” he said “There are more than 1,000 words in our dictionary that come from Japanese.” Whipps does not hesitate to suggest tokubetsu—or “special.” Japan has been a generous donor of aid to Palau with a roadside marker in Koror commemorating the completion of a road project in the capital Originally settled by voyagers from the Philippines or Indonesia between 4,000 and 5,000 years ago the islands were first recorded by Spanish explorers in 1522 although it was not until November 1710 that a Spanish expedition set foot on the territory which is around 900 kilometers due east of the Philippine island of Mindanao The archipelago remained under Spanish control until being sold to Germany in 1885 and then as a result of Berlin’s defeat in World War I Palau and a number of other German possessions in the Pacific were allocated by the League of Nations to Japan Sepia-tinted images in the Palau National Museum depict life in the most important town in Japan’s South Seas Mandate The main street was wide and lined with trees that provided shade Wooden buildings of unmistakably Japanese design lined both sides On the southern end of the main road stood the headquarters building of the Japanese administration the first president of the newly independent Palau in 1981 Kuniwo Nakamura served eight years as president from 1992 and Japanese family names are still much in evidence above shops and businesses throughout the islands Chloe Yano’s grandparents on both sides were Japanese and although she says she “relates more closely” to her Paluan side says there are numerous parallels between the people of both cultures Japan has had a large influence on Palauan society,” says the 28-year-old Yano who works for the Palau Visitors’ Authority in Koror “There are lots of shared attitudes and values being hospitable to others and respect for the environment hard-working and have tight family connections which are attitudes that we share with Japanese,” she says “And every day we hear words that are borrowed from Japanese Palau became a favorite for Japanese travelers many of whom were fascinated with the connections between the two countries and others who wanted to explore some of the best dive sites in the world Japanese were consistently in the top three for foreign visitors although that has not bounced back as we had hoped,” she said suggesting the weak yen against the dollar and the lack of direct flights are major hurdles that need to be overcome Sunken warships and aircraft are a legacy of the fierce fighting that took place across Palau in 1944 Swing Aguon estimates that 60% of his clients were Japanese visitors But he is hopeful they will return to his boat charter business in Koror and visits to the UNESCO-listed Rock Islands and as far south as the island Peleliu “There are some Palauans who may have had difficult times when the Japanese were in control of that generation are alive today,” he says “The attitude among people now is that it happened in the past it should be remembered but we cannot linger on the past “The Japanese who come now are tourists and they spend money that helps the economy The UNESCO-listed Rock Islands Funds from the Nippon Foundation have also gone to support police launches that operate around Palau Japanese-made school buses are a regular sight throughout Palau Many of the school buses in Koror were donated to Palau by Japan as a symbol of friendship a 68-year-old retired state wildlife ranger who has spent his entire life on the southern island of Peleliu says his father remembered the Japanese that he worked for fondly “He told me that all the Japanese he met were kind and did not harm the local people,” he recalls “All they wanted was to set up businesses and make a living.” The laid-back lifestyle of the island was destroyed when the war came to Peleliu in September 1944 although the Japanese had taken the precaution of sending all the civilian residents by ship to the north The people of Palau have a deep gratitude to Japan for the assistance that it has provided such as to fund improvements in the water supply system in Koror I guess this island might still be a part of Japan,” Rull said they found a layer of black ash about 2 feet [60 centimeters] beneath the surface It made it hard to grow the traditional crops here as they all tasted bitter the Japanese government has been very generous with grants and aid to help us rebuild and Japanese tourists bring in money to our businesses,” he added then-Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko marked the seventieth anniversary of the end of the war by offering flowers and prayers at a memorial on Peleliu More than 10,000 Japanese troops died as they attempted to resist the US invasion while 34 men hid in the dense jungle until April 1947 unaware that Japan had surrendered 20 months earlier Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko offer flowers at a cenotaph on Peleliu on April 9 to pay respect to victims of the battle between Japanese and American forces there Just days after the September 15 anniversary of the start of Operation Stalemate II Sunao Ichihara is back as a volunteer to scour the jungles and mangrove swamps for the remains of Japanese servicemen killed in the fighting Sunao Ichihara a retired colonel in Japan’s Air Self-Defense Force was on Peleliu in September to help in the search for the remains of Japanese servicemen killed in the 1944 battle for the island A retired colonel who served 38 years in the Air Self-Defense Force 76-year-old Ichihara said he had been inspired to help locate and repatriate the remains of fallen men after reading a book written by a Japanese soldier who had been badly injured fighting on nearby Angaur Island but was helped by a US soldier Excavation work gets under way in a clearing in the jungle that is believed to be a mass grave of more than 1,000 Japanese servicemen ”About 10,000 Japanese soldiers died on Peleliu and every one of them had families who have since wondered what happened to their son “I want to help them bring their loved ones home.” Ichihara was volunteering with a team from the Japan Association for the Recovery and Repatriation of War Casualties which has been contracted by the Japanese Ministry of Health and Welfare to help locate as many as possible of the 1.12 million soldiers sailors and airmen still listed as missing in World War II In a clearing to the east of the feature known as Bloody Nose Ridge the JARRWC team has excavated a series of trenches a spine and pelvis are quickly followed by the arms and legs The position of each is carefully recorded and photographed before the work to carefully lift individual bones out of the gritty soil can begin identified using advanced DNA testing techniques that can be compared against samples provided by surviving family members US records show that 1,086 bodies were deposited in a mass grave on the island by the Americans even while the fighting continued on Peleliu its likely location was only identified in 2023 and this is the first body to be excavated It is believed that dozens more lie immediately beneath the team’s feet Shells left from the battle 80 years ago “My mother’s brother was killed in the Philippines and his remains were never brought home,” says Ichihara my mother always said she wanted to go to the Philippines to see the place where he died “And I recognize that if I had been born a few years earlier then I would almost certainly have been a pilot fighting this war.” Offerings to the dead are left at the site of the suspected mass grave Banner photo: The ruin of a Japanese amphibious tank from World War II rusts on Palau’s main island FILE - Palau’s President Surangel Whipps Jr speaks during a press conference at the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Japan (FCCJ) Whipps told the AP in an interview late Thursday that in 2020 while he was running for his current post the Chinese ambassador to a neighboring country pledged to flood his tourism-dependent nation of 20,000 people with a million visitors if he capitulated on the country’s stance “That continues to be the overture,” he said by phone Thursday “We don’t need a million tourists,” he added “It’s not always about how much money we get.” “As the number of Taiwan’s diplomatic allies in the Pacific dwindles the obstacles to China’s regional diplomacy diminish,” said Mihai Sora Director of the Pacific Islands Program at the Lowy Institute Palau tourism industry representatives were denied visas to enter Macau for a lucrative international industry conference Then reports appeared in China’s state media and on an official WeChat channel in June warning tourists of an increase in safety issues for Chinese visitors to Palau urged citizens to be cautious when traveling there Whipps rejected the reports of security problems but said the claims had stuck — visitor numbers from China halved in 2024 but the country tried to diversify its market after Beijing unofficially blocked its citizens from visiting in 2017 “Palau has found itself in a position where it relies on Chinese tourists for income,” Sora said “This is a tap China can quite easily turn on and off — and it does.” Western nations had at times seen Pacific island countries as “dots on a map,” Whipps added Palau hosted New Zealand’s Deputy Prime Minister Winston Peters in the highest-profile visit Whipps had received from that country adding that China had elsewhere “done very good at that diplomacy.” Palau has instead strengthened its ties with Taiwan and Japan which along with Australia have supplied diversity to a tourism market still rebounding from the coronavirus pandemic a non-stop airline route opened between Palau and Brisbane Whipps also hailed educational opportunities for Palau’s youth in the U.S. “We want our best and brightest to be educated in schools that share our values,” he said challenges from long-time pro-Beijing voices in Palau are growing once more he said the campaign would be fought not on foreign influence but on the merits of tax reform and did not believe a change in leadership would weaken ties to Taiwan Politicians in Palau do not run on party platforms Whipps’ main opponent for the presidency was the country’s leader until 2021 also rebuffed China’s attempts at sway during his time in office “We’ve always had the belief that we should be friends to all and enemies to none,” Whipps said “Our relationship to Taiwan shouldn’t be questioned by anybody.” AP video producer Olivia Zhang contributed reporting from Beijing which is important to the US military amid tensions with China and is among a dozen diplomatic allies of Taiwan Palau’s incumbent president Surangel Whipps Jr has been returned for a second term after a national election held last week, according to a final tally by the Palau Election Commission. The results showed Whipps Jr won 5,626 votes, defeating his brother-in-law Tommy Remengesau who received 4,103 votes. Palau, which is important to the US military amid tensions with China and is among a dozen diplomatic allies of Taiwan, held a national election for president and its senate on 5 November. I know the challenges we face are significant but so are the opportunities,” Whipps said in a statement claiming victory on Wednesday His government would seek to diversify Palau’s economy while protecting its ocean and forests Whipps has overseen the swift expansion of US military interests across the Palauan archipelago Palau this year renewed a Compact of Free Association with Washington in a deal that will see it receive $890m in economic assistance over 20 years in return for allowing continued US military access to its maritime zone Palau’s population of 18,000 is spread across an archipelago that sits between the Philippines and the US military base on Guam Australia’s prime minister Anthony Albanese congratulated Whipps Jr in a message on social media platform X on Wednesday “We look forward to continuing to work as friends and partners to ensure a peaceful stable and prosperous Pacific,” Albanese wrote Taiwan president Lai Ching-te had earlier congratulated Whipps Jr in a message on social media saying there would be greater collaboration in tourism and infrastructure The Melanesian microstate is one of the few remaining countries in the world that diplomatically recognises Taiwan instead of China The headline of this story was amended on 14 November Brothers-in-law face off in a presidential battle over the economy cost of living and relations with global powers a newly rebuilt US military runway slices through forest in southern Palau the airfield is the latest example of a push by the United States to build its presence in the Pacific as concerns around China’s reach in the region grow The small Pacific country is one of 12 in the world that has diplomatic ties with Taiwan instead of China and will head to the polls on 5 November Voters are mostly concerned about a weak economy and cost of living crisis. But outside Palau the election symbolises the growing tussle for influence by Washington and Beijing playing out across the Pacific The contest is an unlikely battle between brothers-in-law – President Surangel Whipps Jr will take on former president Tommy Esang Remengesau Jr wants to reform Palau’s economy and strengthen security ties with Washington a Palauan chief known for his environmental achievements has signalled a willingness to work more closely with China and other partners on climate action and to meet Palau’s economic needs A new runway built by the US military on the island of Peleliu Photograph: Matthew Abbott/The GuardianThe archipelago of about 18,000 people lies just east of the Philippines chief executive officer at the United States Studies Centre in Sydney says Palau’s strategic position has made it a focal point in a geopolitical tug-of-war “These small islands that few people know about suddenly become the objects of major strategic competition,” he says truck driver Aiu Andres says it is getting more difficult to make ends meet “Life today is a little bit harder,” the 33-year-old says from his home as he pats his baby to sleep but usually it’s because we import a lot of our products so we cannot even really control the prices.” Most of Palau’s goods – worth about $70m each year – are imported from the US. Palau was fully administered by America until independence in 1994, and it continues to have deep ties with the US under a Compact of Free Association. The agreement sees the US provides more than 10% of Palau’s annual budget and gives Palauans the right to work and live in the US Washington has full control of defence and military operations over land air and sea in this strategic string of islands Life today is a little bit harderAiu AndresTruck driver Aiu Andres with his son Photograph: Matthew Abbott/The GuardianPalau’s president has welcomed US support and sought to extend its military presence in the country over his four-year term “We see what’s happening around our region, we see what’s happened in the Philippines, China has just moved into those reefs, no respect for sovereignty” Whipps said, referring to China’s contested incursions into the South China Sea “As a small nation … I think it’s a benefit for Palau to have that special relationship with the United States.” He served as CEO of the massive family company started by his father Its logo – a smiley face wearing a crown – emblazons the country’s only mall the diggers that crisscross a massive quarry site near the national airport a car rental company and countless other local businesses Whipps no longer works for the company since becoming president in 2021. Over the past four years, Surangel & Sons’ construction arm has won at least 37 US defence contracts, valued at more than $5.8m President Surangel Whipps Jr talks about taxation at a campaign event in the town of Airai Photograph: Matthew Abbott/The GuardianWhipps’ rival for the presidency “There seems to be no equal opportunities or opportunities for other companies to get the benefits of government projects or military projects,” Remengesau said he would look to break up the size of tendered projects so that smaller Palauan companies could compete for them Whipps dismisses such criticisms as “sounding like a Chinese narrative” never taken advantage of any situation that we’ve been in from when we started our business 40 years ago until now,” the president told the Guardian Remengesau served as president of Palau for 16 years Palau became known globally for several ambitious environmental policies – from creating the world’s first shark sanctuary to converting 80% of Palau’s waters into a marine sanctuary Sitting at his home in the main town of Koror while his young granddaughter leans against his shoulders and a small white kitten nips at his legs Remengesau says he never intended to get back into politics But a petition signed by more than 6,000 Palauans and delivered to him earlier this year convinced him otherwise Dancers prepare to go on stage during an event at Long Island Photograph: Matthew Abbott/The GuardianRemengesau doesn’t oppose US military involvement in Palau but says it should not be a priority for Palau He wants more consultation with traditional and community leaders to ensure the projects don’t harm Palau’s environment “China and the US are trying to outdo each other with their defence and military strategies in the Pacific,” Remengesau says “But security for us is not about defence and militarisation Security for us is about climate change and global warming.” It’s highly unusual in Palau for family members to run against each other and both Whipps and Remengesau say it’s “unfortunate” that they are in opposition especially at a time when Palau faces mounting economic pressures The president says a 10% goods and services tax (PGST) introduced last year provides necessary revenue for the government while Remengesau and his supporters have criticised the levy for worsening the financial burden on Palau’s low-income households “The problem with our economy is we have only one source of revenue and that is the tourism industry,” the country’s only female senator “China was our main tourism market prior to Covid when we reached like 100,000 [visitors] they have used tourism as an economic tool to try and change our foreign affairs.” China’s foreign ministry was contacted through regional embassies but did not respond Tourism makes up an estimated 40% of Palau’s GDP and both presidential candidates have accused China of using economic pressure to influence its foreign and domestic policies Whipps also believes the biggest opponents to the PGST are from businesses “affiliated with a lot of Chinese [nationals]” but Uludong is still keen for Palau to better benefit from China’s lucrative market saying it is wise for the country to “make friends with the biggest bully” “How come the Chinese can do business here and we can’t do business there?” Uludong tells the Guardian “We want to promote Palau in China so tourists can come.” While there’s no indication Palau will shift its alliance away from the US and Taiwan following the election Green says its leaders’ ability to resist China’s overtures depends on the strength of its governance The audience listens to Whipps Jr at a campaign event in Airai Photograph: Matthew Abbott/The Guardian“It’s more about how well governed the country [is] … and how accountable its leaders are,” Green says “[Otherwise] leaders will do things for short-term political gains Palau’s alliance with Taiwan is popular among many of its voters Taiwan provides the Pacific country a range of support – scholarships to study at Kainan University visits from health staff to provide free medical checks to Palauns and other modest agricultural and infrastructure projects The former president is open to working more closely with China as long as Palau can maintain its existing diplomatic relationships we would have relations with China and Taiwan if it was possible,” Remengesau said