is located 150 kilometers south of Guadalajara
there’s an iron mine,” we had been told
“and along the road to that iron mine
if only for the fun of rappelling down them and a few minutes later shouting
where we had no problem finding the road to the iron mine because alongside it is a very high and impressive teleferico (aerial tramway) transporting 650 containers brimming with iron ore through the air
“Do you know el pozo sin fondo [the bottomless pit]?” we queried a local shopkeeper
You have heard about our bottomless pit way up there al otro lado [in the United States]?”
Bienvenido and drive up the road toward the mine until you come to a place called Fortín
and there you will find the now internationally famous pozo.”
The pueblito (a town with a population of 10) called Fortín was marked by a little shop selling refrescos (soft drinks)
We asked for cold beverages and sat down with the owner
What else would people do with a bottomless pit
and my wife Susy walked up to the edge of the hole
“I can see the bottom from here!” she complained
Hoping to find an extensive cave system down below
The supposedly non-existent bottom turned out to be 28 meters below the surface
I was surprised to find not much garbage in it
but this was explained when I proceeded to the lowest part of the room
where I found a vertical passage with smooth
“a lot of water goes down this hole and — I bet — a lot of garbage too
No wonder they thought it was bottomless.”
I slid down the lower passage for 16 meters before the tube got too tight to continue
The surface of this passage was coated with rippling white flowstone
suggesting that below us there must be plenty of karst
the kind of limestone you get where caves abound
we went back and asked Don Rafael if there were any other caves in the area
there’s a big one down by the river.”
remember that cave near a river you told us about
Think we could find it if you give us some directions?”
any chance you could show us where it is?”
Since Don Rafael himself had told us that one could easily spend all day wandering inside that cave
none of us were ready to give up so easily
After another hour of chit-chat with a lunch break in between
we finally talked him into “taking us partway.”
reachable after a two-hour brisk hike down into a wide
lonely canyon said to be the home of animales de uña: pumas
Although the heat was stifling and it felt like our brains were frying
we fairly flew down the hillside and headed upriver
The entrance to Don Rafa’s cave turned out to be small and easy to miss
which was a bit of a letdown until we stepped inside …
It’s been a long time since we’ve seen a cave in Jalisco anything like this: a smooth borehole four to five meters in diameter that reminded us of a train tunnel
Stalactites hung from the ceiling like great drops of hot fudge
Because we had taken our guide away from his work (naturally
we resisted the temptation to see more of the cave and headed back up the steep hill to tiny Fortín
Luis Rojas and I were back in the area with the intention of camping near Chocolate Cave
Don Rafa had promised to join us there the following morning for breakfast and a tour of the cave
inside of which he had never dared to venture
we filled our canteens with fresh spring water and then stored our backpacks inside the cave entrance
bloodsucking “kissing bug” that can carry the parasitical Chagas disease
we found two ferocious-looking arañas lobo (wolf spiders)
whose bite is said to cause painful swelling
which led us to several rooms bristling with countless
Many of these were within arm’s reach
and we were amazed not to find any of them broken
we gazed up at a balcony that was obviously home to a good-sized colony of bats
The next rooms we came to were either filled with breakdown or great heaps of sand
we found deposits of fine black dust that we proved — with the help of a magnet — to be powdered iron
probably washed into the cave from the aerial tramway
we stood at the opening to a very large room filled with lots of chunky breakdown
We both stopped and looked at each other: “Do you hear what I hear?”
The sound reaching our ears was so much like the voices of people laughing
shouting and playing in a swimming pool that we really expected to find a balneario (water spa) at the other end of the room
We actually set out looking for these people
but what we found were two streams of water on both sides of the room
each heading off in the opposite direction
apparently fed by a spring rising up from beneath the breakdown
Were our “voices” generated by the gurgling stream on the right
or were they real voices floating into the cave above the wider “river” heading off to the left
As we hadn’t come prepared for water sports and the hour was late
So we decided to pitch our tents here inside by tying them to a couple of conveniently located stalactites on the low ceiling
With vampire bats fluttering by at regular intervals (not to mention the other critters we had seen)
who had been suffering from insomnia for weeks
which was suddenly interrupted in what I thought was the middle of the night …
“ANYBODY IN THERE????” came a loud voice booming through the cave
We prudently declined to respond and a minute later heard “the voice” again
this time right outside our tents: “Here I am for my tour … let’s go!”
I reached for my flashlight and looked at my watch
smiling at us and opening a big thermos full of hot té de canela (cinnamon tea)
Don Rafa regaled us with tales of other caves in the area: La Cueva del Salitre
where we could see trout swimming about inside
home to tailless whip scorpions (Amblypygi) — huge arachnids with mantis-like claws
The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for 31 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website
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In an attempt to prevent Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG) hitmen from entering their communities and attacking them
residents of two municipalities in western Michoacán have taken defensive measures by digging trenches across highways
neighboring municipalities that border Jalisco
cut road access at La Limonera and La Pinolapa
the trenches prevent vehicles from traveling through the two municipalities to Jalisco and the Michoacán coast
CJNG gunmen have entered several communities in armored vehicles over the past week and launched attacks directed at their adversaries
among which is a group known as Carteles Unidos
Residents say that the CJNG – usually considered Mexico’s most powerful and dangerous criminal organization – has taken control of several communities in the Tierra Caliente region of Michoacán
The decision to dig the trenches came after members of a CJNG cell set fire to 11 vehicles last weekend in the Coalcóman community of Puerto de las Cruces
apparently to stop the entry of security forces from Jalisco after a cartel ambush
Residents say the CJNG has been bringing weapons and people into Michoacán via Puerto de las Cruces
which adjoins the Jalisco municipality of Pihuamo
The weapons and cartel personnel are taken through Coalcóman to a community in the municipality of Aguililla where the CJNG has a base
Aguililla was the scene of a cartel ambush just over a year ago that left 14 state police officers dead
The attack is believed to have been perpetrated by the CJNG
Community authorities told the newspaper El Universal that the cartel was also responsible for an ambush last Friday that wounded three state police
The attack occurred on the Tepalcatepec-Coalcomán highway near the community of Los Aguacates
As a result of the recent cartel violence in the region
about 200 families decided to abandon their homes and seek refuge in safer locations
Some are reportedly planning to leave Michoacán to travel to the northern border and seek asylum in the United States
Some teenagers have fled their towns out of fear that the CJNG will attempt to recruit them forcibly
Authorities have identified a man nicknamed “El Negrito” as well as Miguel Fernández
aka “El M2,” as the main instigators of the violence in western Michoacán municipalities on or near the Jalisco border
El Negrito is believed to be the leader of a CJNG cell while Fernández is the suspected plaza chief in Aguililla
El Universal reported that there is video footage of the former executing presumed members of rival groups in cold blood
The newspaper also said that there is footage of CJNG members setting residents on fire as a form of torture to obtain information from them about rival criminal groups
Formed about a decade ago, the Jalisco cartel is led by Nemesio “El Mencho” Oseguera Cervantes, Mexico’s most wanted drug lord. It is notorious for violence and making videos that show off its significant firepower
Oseguera hails from a town in Aguililla, and violence in and around the municipality last year was reportedly linked to his desire to move home.
The kingpin, rumored to be suffering from kidney disease, is also wanted in the United States, where a US $10-million reward is on offer for information that leads to his arrest
Source: Milenio (sp), El Universal (sp)
Municipal police officers in Jalostotitlán and Poncitlán
have been disarmed and relieved of their duties due to suspicious behavior
state Security Minister Juan Bosco Pacheco announced Friday
State officials seized communications equipment
computers and files from the offices of both forces as evidence
the estimated 300 police officers will be re-evaluated and receive training in human rights and the appropriate use of force and confidence and anti-doping tests
the army and the National Guard will take over local policing for an indefinite period
Jalisco Governor Enrique Alfaro said investigations are underway into both police forces
“We are not going to allow anyone to steal the tranquility of our people
those who work to serve and care for the people of Jalisco
Any person who walks a crooked path will pay the consequences,” the governor warned
As many as 18 municipal police forces in Jalisco have been decommissioned since 2014
Suspicions over officers’ links to organized crime are the most common reason for removing officers from duty
Just this year police forces in four municipalities have been relieved of their duties, In February, 160 officers in San Juan de los Lagos were disarmed after they were linked to organized crime. In June, police in Ixtlahuacán de los Membrillos were decommissioned after a local man died of a traumatic brain injury after he was allegedly beaten to death by police officers
Two officers have been charged with torture in his death and one has been charged with homicide
Source: Infobae (sp), Debate (sp)