Mexican whiskey has been finding its way into some of the country’s most interesting bars
Whiskeys produced in Mexico generally use Mexico’s favorite grain: corn
Oaxaca-based distiller Sierra Norte takes this focus a step further by focusing on individual species of maize
Their fascinating range of spirits is distilled from locally grown heirloom corn
Sierra Norte’s selection currently showcases six expressions made from carefully selected corn cobs: black
the last of which comes from corn that grows with multi-colored cobs
Typically the expressions are finished at 45 percent after two years in toasted French oak barrels
Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for thousands of years and is the basis of much of the traditional diet
Therefore it is exciting that whiskey brands like Sierra Norte are finally emerging from the region
sharing the rich and delicious flavor of Oaxaca’s corn whiskey with the world
Founder Douglas French is better known for his mezcal brand Scorpion
which he launched in the mid-1990s with the help of a team of local women
Since then Scorpion has been produced at their distillery in San Agustín de las Juntas
French and his team began to explore distilling other Oaxacan products
French met farmers from the Sierra Norte selling different colored corn cobs
He planted some of the grains in his own fields and shared the outcome with local growers
Now there are several producers he can buy the grains from
The Sierra Norte distillery is located in San Agustín
bursting at the seams with flowers and young agave plants
Literally tons of old industrial textile machine parts have been repurposed into sculptures and plant pots
A post shared by Sierra Norte Mexican Whiskey (@sierra_norte_whiskey)
There is also some rustic but impressive equipment for the production of mezcal and now whiskey
Alongside the big copper pots used for distillation
members of the Sierra Norte team go through hundreds of cobs of corn
Manager Rogelio Hernández Vez explains that to develop the Scorpion mezcal distillery for whiskey
and new pot stills were added to the distillation area.”
The corn is then fermented in stainless steel tanks for around five days
At this stage malted barley is added to the corn; approximately 15 percent barley to 85 percent corn
barley has a higher sugar content than corn and is needed to stimulate the fermentation
first in stainless steel and then in copper alembic stills
Initially coming out of the still the liquid is clear
What French describes as ‘moonshine.’ At this stage the whiskey has a rich smell and taste of the corn itself
French is passionate about barrel aging and has an extensive range of barrel-aged mezcal
Both are aged in 230-liter French oak barrels
which he originally brought over from France to Oaxaca via the port of Veracruz
Charring the inside of the barrel breaks down the structure of the oak
The barrels are laid to rest in concrete cellars
In whiskey this evaporation during aging is referred to as the “angel’s share.” According to French
Sierra Norte whiskey is aged in these cellars for two years
The first barrels of whiskey were filled in 2014 and the Sierra Norte brand officially launched in 2016
whiskey produced in Mexico is made from corn and follows United States regulations
This is partly due to much of the product being made to export
The distiller began producing a mere 250 liters but now produce 8,000 liters and are enjoying global success
exporting Oaxacan whiskey to more than 12 countries
president of multi-country whiskey tasting club Drammers
says the organization’s international members have shown an interest in the new wave of Mexican corn whiskeys
“We actually bought three single barrels from [Sierra Norte]: a green corn whiskey
a rainbow corn whiskey and a yellow corn whiskey.”
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22 members of Sol Rojo announced that they were acquitted of the charges against them after three years of a judicial process marked by irregularities
The group was legally represented by human rights defender and lawyer Dr
human rights defender and university professor
Ernesto Sernas García disappeared in San Agustín de las Juntas
His disappearance coincides with a decisive moment in a criminal procedure against 23 activists he is legally representing
Ernesto Sernas Garcia is a Constitutional Law professor at Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca and had been legally representing 23 activists
that were arbitrarily detained in 2015 and accused of terrorism and carrying explosives
the criminal procedure against them is ongoing
Ernesto Sernas Garcia was about to submit evidence that could have proved irregular criminal procedures and human rights violations against the 23 activists
His work was essential to the present outcome
Ernesto Sernas Garcia is a Constitutional Law professor at Universidad Autónoma Benito Juárez de Oaxaca
He had been legally representing the 22 members of Sol Rojo
just before submitting the evidence that resulted in the acquittal of the activists
the 22 activists members of Sol Rojo announced that they were acquitted of the charges of terrorism and carrying of explosives filed against them on 7 June 2015
when they were arbitrarily arrested for participating in a peaceful demonstration
The criminal procedures following the arrest were marked by irregularities and human rights violations of the defendants
Ernesto Sernas Garcia had gathered key evidence that proved the innocence of the Sol Rojo members and demonstrated the pattern of criminalisation against them
On 28 September 2018, the United Nations Committee on Enforced Disappearances (CED) issued an urgent action to the Mexican State on the disappearance of Ernesto Sernas Garcia
urging the Mexican authorities to carry out a thorough investigation
The CED also requested protection measures for Ernesto Sernas Garcia’s family and for members of Sol Rojo
the defender’s family has not received information regarding progress in the investigation into his disappearance from the Mexican authorities
View the Urgent Appeal
Local human rights organisations have criticised the government for its lack of a meaningful response to Dr
Ernesto Sernas Garcia’s family about having opened an investigation and has not publicly addressed the disappearance
The lack of effective investigations into attacks against human rights defenders
and the failure to sanction the perpetrators and provide adequate protection has generated a climate of impunity that prevents human rights work and provides an opportunity for attacks to be carried out
According to reports provided by local organisations
Oaxaca is the second most dangerous state to carry out human rights work
and responsible for almost 60% of all recorded attacks against women human rights defenders in Mexico
there have been at least 28 attacks against human rights defenders in Oaxaca
including three killings of indigenous defenders
Front Line Defenders is concerned about the disappearance of Dr
as it believes his disappearance is linked to his legitimate human rights activities
Front Line Defenders expresses further concern at the climate of impunity and the lack of a safe environment for human rights defenders in Mexico
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a shepherd found a wild lily growing in what today is San Agustín de las Juntas
When digging to collect the flower by its root
royal head is today the city’s official emblem
This foundational story is exemplary of Oaxaca
a magical land inhabited by magical people
where the geographies of language and biodiversity intertwine
enveloping and nourishing one other over millennia
These all evolve together while sharing the same spaces and the same challenges — animate and inanimate — that humanity faces today in its efforts to save our blue planet
It’s a human-nature communion so profound that the Zapotecs here — the Cloud People
as they call themselves — believed that they descended from rocks
Oaxaca’s land is the cosmic daughter of a complex geological history
That history has sculpted archetypal symbols on its topography and on the minds of its people
shaping a limitless range of landscapes — from the Pacific coast and through dry tropical forest; through scrublands
temperate pine and oak forests; and into the triumphant ascent into the cloud forests of the Cerro Nube (Cloud Hill) at 3,720 meters above sea level
It is the land of the Mixtec princes Tres Pedernal
the incarnation of the values of Mexico’s indigenous women
It is the land in which Los Chimalapas lies — that breathtaking half a million hectare home of Mexico’s last remaining intact tropical forest
which unfurls across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec
Oaxaca is the exquisite outcome of an assortment of natural blessings that have encouraged adaptive radiation (i.e.
rapid evolutionary species diversification)
speciation (when nature creates a new offshoot species) and an extraordinary mix of flora and fauna that has blended elegantly with indigenous peoples and languages
The state’s name comes from huaxyácac (“in the nose of the guaje plants” in the Náhuatl language)
a native tree with white flowers and red and green pods (the three colors of the Mexican flag
before that flag even existed) that conceal tasty seeds
Tepeaca and Antequera; but the Náhuatl won over the Spanish
and today it continues to be proudly called Oaxaca
a wide variety of indigenous peoples have spread and flourished in these diverse environments: the Zapotec
mestizos and Spanish thriving together on this tricolor nose of guajes
more than 4,000 indigenous communities in Oaxaca speak 157 languages
More than 8,400 species of plants (40% of all the plants in Mexico) and 4,500 species of animals (half of the country’s vertebrates and 19% of its invertebrates)
make Oaxaca Mexico’s most bioculturally diverse (meaning both highly biologically and culturally diverse) state
This is why Oaxaca is a biocultural planetary treasure
It’s also why there exists no gastronomy like Oaxaca’s: seven multicolored moles
the hearty beef and bean soup caldo de gato
the ancestral drink pozonque and Oaxaca’s version of the tostada known as memelas
to appease everyone’s alcoholic and nonalcoholic thirst
of which 418 are ruled by the “uses and customs,” an autochthone form of self-governance
Miahuatlán de Porfirio Díaz and Teotitlán (meaning among the houses of God in Náhuatl) de Flores Magón blow the minds of all travelers
Oaxaca is so desirable that even the souls of those who die
choose to hang around after their bodies have long gone
the souls of all those who were born in Oaxaca and passed away — including its most famous artists
dictators and anarchist journalists — wander the graveyards and streets and may reveal themselves to the living
If you find yourself in Oaxaca city on that day and you walk the streets at night
you may encounter the souls of Oaxaca’s two most celebrated and loved Zapotec painters: Francisco Toledo (and his magical erotic animals)
who succeeded in preventing a McDonald’s from opening on the capital’s zócalo; and Rufino Tamayo
whom you will see carrying his mural Day and Night
which symbolizes the struggle between daytime (the feathered serpent) and nighttime (the tiger)
José Vasconcelos and Andrés Henestrosa; but they will reveal themselves only if you have read at least one of their books
Whether you like their music and voices or not
you will certainly encounter the souls of violinist-pianist Macedonio Alcalá performing his waltz and Oaxaca’s de facto anthem
Chuy Rasgado and José López Alavés singing “Sabor a Mí,” “Naela” or “Canción Mixteca,” an ode to all Mexico’s migrants
And if you care about the rights of indigenous peoples
as president of Mexico he fought for the best causes
including separation between church and state
freedom of the press and the subordination of the army to civil authority — causes for which we Mexicans continue to fight hard even today
And if you are one of those willing to take risks
There you may have the opportunity to confront
the soul of Porfirio Díaz — the politician
the souls of the three Flores Magón brothers — fomenters of the Mexican Revolution who would be loudly heralding their anarchist newspaper Regeneration
But if you chose to only walk near Santo Domingo — that matchless baroque temple built by persevering Dominican priests in the mid-16th century — try hard to listen to the song La Llorona that tells the sad story of the young Zapotec man in love
who cried despairingly when her beloved husband was swept away to his death by the winds of the Mexican Revolution
you might also have the chance to listen to Oaxaca’s five living hummingbirds — Lila Downs
come to Oaxaca on July 16 and stay the two Mondays after
Those are Los Lunes del Cerro (Mondays on the Hill) — pre-Hispanic rituals worshiping the goddess and protector of maize
these rituals culminated with the sacrifice of a damsel representing the goddess
rituals that many years later turned into the Guelaguetza
a Zapotec festival thanking the agriculture gods for the harvest
participate without any class distinctions
The Guelaguetza ends with the Dance of the Feather
in which the principal dancer (the sun) moves in circles to talk to other dancers (the celestial bodies) with diagonal movements representing the winter solstice and parallel movements representing the spring equinox
That night was the Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes)
when local artists display figures that they have lovingly carved from leviathan radishes
It seems like yesterday that I wandered through the streets of Oaxaca de Juárez
young and alone while devouring with heart and soul a myriad of colorful animals
houses and countless other exquisite forms carved out of beautiful specimens of Raphanus sativus
offered to me as gifts by artists I did not know
It seems like yesterday that I found refuge in a cold and somber church
comfortably sitting near a bowl filled with holy water and realizing that I had just arrived in the most magical place on Earth
• Respectfully dedicated to Josefina and other Zapotec women of white heads and rebellious hearts who initiated me into the magic of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec
and whose distant relatives lived there 10,000 years ago
is a former senior officer at the UN Environment Program and the former director-general of the World Wildlife Fund-Mexico