hidden among the lonely hills of the Sierra Occidental
about two-thirds of the way from Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta
three million people go out of their way to visit tiny Talpa every year and a great many of them do it on foot
Most of these visitors are peregrinos (pilgrims)
many who hope to receive a blessing or perhaps even a miracle from a statue about 30 centimeters tall known as the Virgen del Rosario (the virgin of the rosary)
This statue was brought to Talpa in 1585 by the indigenous Tarasco people
broken and disfigured,” it was about to be buried
as is the custom for disposing of these religious statues when their useful life has come to an end
“a resplendent light burst forth from the image,” knocking out the “undertaker.” When calm was restored
had been restored to her former beauty in the twinkling of an eye and the flash of a heavenly light
Many who walk all or part of the pilgrims’ route are devoted to the virgencita
but many others are there simply for the camaraderie that inevitably develops among Mexicans away from home — or they simply would like to say
The most popular path by far to Talpa is the 117-kilometer trail that starts in the town of Ameca
flat stretches running through oak forests
pastures and scrublands but also includes two particularly steep mountains: El Cerro del Obispo (The bishop’s hill) and the aptly named Espinazo del Diablo (the devil’s backbone)
gave me an idea of what these hills are like
“The Cerro del Obispo is really rough and rocky
you reach a little community where for 50 pesos you can sleep on a petate (traditional reed mat) under a little roof and cover yourself with a blanket
several Mexican architects got together and decided to create a variety of monumental constructions along the way
most of them in very remote spots where you would hardly expect to stumble upon works of art
Perhaps the most striking of these is the Open Chapel of Gratitude by Mexican architect Tatiana Bilbao and Dellekamp Architects
It is said that this route has been the favorite of pilgrims for over 200 years
the peregrinos had a rough time of it: eating little and sleeping on rocky ground
were very much in keeping with the spirit of the pilgrimage: enduring pain and doing penance in the hopes of thereby gaining a spiritual reward
the Jalisco government stepped in to alleviate some of the problems that inevitably occur when crowds of people show up at the same spot out in the countryside
portable toilets now await the pilgrims at these waypoints as well as garafones (20-liter bottles) of water
they can get a good night’s sleep and nurse their blisters in one of hundreds of hotels offering accommodations for every imaginable price range
What to do once you have visited the Virgin and rested up from the long
Here it should be noted that Talpa was recently added to the list of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos
Some of that magic can be appreciated simply by strolling down just about any street in town
very nice murals full of imagination and color
you may end up calling this town Mural City
you will also find plenty of shops and stands selling curious little knick-knacks made of — would you believe it
made from the white sap that oozes out of diagonal cuts in the bark of a “bush” that can grow 10 meters tall
The sap is mixed with water and cooked a long time
it is kneaded and pounded again and again until it reaches the right consistency to be used for artistic purposes
unflavored and designed for pleasing the eye rather than the palate
there are several outdoor sites well worth a visit:
This Maple Forest
which you’d expect to find in Canada
have been living side-by-side with giant ferns
happily surviving together since Pleistocene times
A one-kilometer trail takes you on a hike well worth your while through this cloud forest shaded by lichen-covered maples
where you will cross moss-covered logs over little bubbling brooks
This particular species of maple (Acer binzayedii) is unique and found nowhere else in the world
This is a mini mountain 23 kilometers east of Talpa
immediately alongside the highway to Guadalajara
but you may have the sensation that you’ve just stepped onto another planet
You will see bizarre wave-like rock formations you’d swear were created by Salvador Dali or Antonio Gaudí
You will find this delightful waterfall 10 kilometers west of Talpa
and on a weekday you will probably be the only person enjoying it
The cascade is about 30 meters high and is named after a nearby silver mine
At the waterfall’s foot is a picturesque pool where you can swim to your heart’s content in cold
ask Google Maps to take you to Cascada de Aranjuez
The drive to Talpa takes about three and a half hours from Guadalajara and four hours from Lake Chapala. For a more complete idea of what Talpa has to offer, you may want to watch Luigi Medina’s lively and colorful YouTube videos, which are in Spanish: Talpa 1 and Talpa 2
The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog
ADVERTISE WITH MND
COMMUNITY GUIDELINES
Subscription FAQ's
Privacy Policy
Mexico News Daily - Property of Tavana LLC
A fan of docuseries and a food lover who is always in search of coexisting with Mother Nature.
unique destinations ideal for day trips during the rainy season
The Vallarta Lifestyles editorial team presents some of their peculiarities to help you make the most of your next visit
El Tuito is located approximately 40 kilometers south of Puerto Vallarta
is a perfect place to start your exploration
the plaza invites you to relax and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere
You can also visit the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe
a beautiful historic building dating back to the 18th century
El Tuito is also famous for its production of raicilla
approximately two and a half hours from the Puerto Vallarta International Airport
Its Main Plaza is a place where spirituality and daily life blend
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary is a focal point
and the Talpa Basílica is an impressive religious building
you can explore the cobblestone streets and enjoy authentic local food at nearby restaurants
Just 100 kilometers northeast of Puerto Vallarta
Mascota is a town surrounded by mountains and forests
Its Main Plaza is a charming place to enjoy a morning coffee by the kiosko
you can explore the Church of Our Lady of Sorrows and the Mascota Historical Museum
This small town is also famous for its production of candies
about an hour’s drive from the Puerto Vallarta International Airport
is a place that transports you back in time
Its cobblestone streets and colonial architecture make you feel as if you were in the 19th century
is a meeting point for residents and visitors
you can explore the San Sebastián Mártir Temple
a photogenic spot with a small waterfall among typical houses
A fan of docuseries and a food lover who is always in search of coexisting with Mother Nature
Four flat pillars shoot towards the Mexican heavens
a small but majestic flash in their hazy valley
the little town of Lagunillas reclines in the sun
they evoke the Biblical story of Lot’s wife
turned into a pillar of salt as she looked back at Sodom
the pillars form the outline of a giant crucifix
the chapel was designed by Mexico City architects Derek Dellekamp and Tatiana Bilbao
a small piece of iron represents the wound in Jesus’ side
This is the first stop on the Ruta del Peregrino
project – one of the most thoughtful architectural schemes in Mexico for decades
it will provide a series of nine contemporary structures
chapels and lookout points along the 117km route from the town of Ameca to the church in Talpa de Allende
which has been attracting pilgrims for the 366 years since it played host to a miraculous apparition attributed to the Virgin Mary
orchestrated a group of young international architects to come together for the project
each picking a site and creating their own vision
The 3 million pilgrims that make the annual three-day hike to Talpa will have a look at modern architecture the like of which most of them will never have seen
“These are really abstract pieces of architecture
It’s more land art than architecture – and there isn’t anything else like it in Mexico.”
The architecture may not be internationally ground-breaking – but in Mexico
The Ruta del Peregrino achieves the rarely attempted: to make Mexican Catholicism cool
The facade of one church along the way is a collage of china plates
Another has at the top of its steeple a neon red cross
But this is what the pilgrims are used to and
until the government’s publicity campaign takes off
they will be the main audience for the new structures
The project’s immediate challenge is to connect with these walkers – Catholics of all ages
and mostly arriving in Holy Week – and provide something relevant to them
While it does not attempt to replace established chapels and shelters
or use architectural muscle to detract attention from the route
neither does it defer entirely to pilgrims’ expectations
It goes for the middle ground: challenging
“To make a spot where nature and the pilgrim understand the territory through the building,” is architect Luis Aldrete’s take on it
Though every architect has created something abstract and personal
religion and nature are also integral to the project
the practice featuring Chilean architects Alejandro Aravena and Diego Torres
What looks like a periscope peeps out from the top of the Devil’s Spine
A rectangular concrete box – missing two sides – appears to have crashed from the sky like Dorothy’s house arriving in Oz
looks over the hill just climbed and deep down into the valley below
The other looks towards a patch of pine trees and white crosses
traditionally planted on behalf of would-be pilgrims who are too old or sick to make it
It is a passage from one landscape into another
lit only by a small skylight with tracery that projects the Virgin Mary’s image on to the floor
it is an invitation to the most daredevil of skateboarders – so much so that it is the only structure coated with greenish-grey anti-graffiti paint
with salt stalactites forming on the ceiling and a large agave plant growing peacefully underneath
The Devil’s Spine looks down on the most showy work
the Swiss firm HHF Architects’ Guava Tree lookout point
walls peeling off from each other at curves and large viewing platform come together surreally
the Chinese artist Ai Weiwei – best known as co-designer of the Beijing Olympic Stadium – fittingly contributes a giant diving board to the Jaliscan sierra
His practice Fake Design’s walkway of an open chapel cuts into a hill on its northern side and plunges out into the southern air
so that when you enter you can choose to go right – north – with your surroundings blocked out by the high walls
leaving only views of the sky and the hill ahead of you
Or you can go south and sit on the ridge that goes all the way around the edge
the lack of much to look at does leave one’s attention free for reflection
they blend in well enough not to be noticed until they are pointed out
with a wide section of brick jali to let the wind and a faint light in
hundreds of pilgrims are wedged in here side by side like cigarettes in a box
though most will only rest a few hours before getting up to walk in the early morning cool
and you just see lots of beautiful landscape
But you see a church or a tower and it gives meaning to the landscape
That’s what I’m trying to do – inject meaning into the territory,” says Aldrete
wrote a short story in which a sick man is dragged along this route by his wife and brother
The guilty lovers know that the journey will kill him
and indeed he dies of exhaustion when he gets to the church in Talpa
designed by Dellekamp with Rozana Montiel’s practice Periférica
“I am really passionate about symbols
I thought universal symbols were the way to go
and circles are certainly a universal symbol,” says Dellekamp
“We looked at a lot of photos of circles – Stonehenge
African children sitting down making a circle with their feet.” A ring of white concrete balances among trees in a wood
A free-standing 3m high gap under one side lets you out and shows what a challenge it was not to alter the landscape
has managed to take place at all is a big step in Mexico
To come this far – with only two structures
by Tatiana Bilbao and Christ & Gantenbein
still to be built – has required the agreement of all the local municipalities
the Church and the donation of most of the land on which the structures stand
is built on an old maize field that used to belong to Lagunillas
a group of over 70 representatives of the community
decided to donate their farmland – despite the chapel’s deeply unfamiliar style
some people didn’t come to the meeting about the sculpture
so they couldn’t vote,” he smiles
And now everyone comes and stops and looks at it.” Don José has a particular interest
as he sells walking-sticks to the pilgrims that pass by the chapel
from the government’s point of view the project’s sights are set far higher than just making the pilgrims’ passage a little easier
This is about tourism on many levels: religious tourism
Santiago de Compostela is the success story on everyone’s minds – to the extent that the government of Talpa is trying to initiate the twinning of the two towns
But don’t let the sordid money issues dampen the excitement
This project sets quite a few national precedents in Mexico
You see a church or a tower and it gives meaning to the landscape
Sign In
Subscribe Now
Real-life besties Marta Méndez Cross (Maria)
and Virginia Novello (Sofia) pooled their mighty talents to write and star in Las Tres Sisters - an ambitious indie road picture that exemplifies the notion that the miracle you pray for isn’t always the one you get.
Lucia and Sofia spent many an hour together
listening as their abuela (grandmother) regaled them with a fabulous retelling of the six-day
135-mile annual pilgrimage to the Talpa de Allende and the shrine of the miracle-working Virgin of the Rosary.
the estranged sisters reunite to complete their beloved grandmother’s pilgrimage through rural Mexico
their journey on the Talpa de Allende trail is filled with hilarious and all-too-relatable sibling moments
From heart-wrenching confrontation to slapstick comic relief
and the unexpected ways miracles appear in our lives
Las Tres Sisters plays at the Salmar Classic Theatre this week on Saturday
Tickets are available at the door for $8 (cash only).
Dialogue and debate are integral to a free society and we welcome and encourage you to share your views on the issues of the day. We ask that you be respectful of others and their points of view, refrain from personal attacks and stay on topic. To learn about our commenting policies and how our community-based moderation works, please read our Community Guidelines
Un recorrido de Guadalajara a Vallarta con vehículos todoterreno acabó con un secuestro
Se desconoce si ya fueron liberados todos los plagiados: Crédito: Especial
En esta imagen aparece el mismo grupo de amigos en un viaje anterior al de la semana pasada
cuando fueron secuestrados al llegar a Puerto Vallarta a bordo de sus vehículos tipo RZR
Talpa de Allende has a high level of seismic activity
Based on data from the past 55 years and our earthquake archive back to 1900
there are about 117 quakes on average per year in or near Talpa de Allende
Talpa de Allende has had at least 2 quakes above magnitude 7 since 1900
which suggests that larger earthquakes of this size occur infrequently
probably on average approximately every 60 to 65 years
The quake had a very shallow depth of 4.6 km (2.9 mi) and was not felt (or at least not reported so)
There have been 33 quakes of magnitude 3.0+ in or near Talpa de Allende in the past 30 days
2025 at around 12.13 am local time (America/Mexico City GMT -6)
Details of the quake (if it is one) are so far preliminary until confirmed by a seismic agency
but the event was reported by the Raspberry Shake Citizen Seismic network and is likely to be confirmed by other agencies soon.