It’s late morning, and Eduardo Rodriguez and I are sharing a booth in a sun-splashed corner of Zacatlán (317 Aztec St.
his Mexican-Southwestern restaurant on Aztec Street in Santa Fe
The chef and restaurateur tells me his hometown
lined with pinkish-orange buildings that acquire an enchanting glow just before nightfall
“People in Zacatecas feel a kinship with Santa Fe,” Rodriguez says
but also excited having recently returned from a trip to Mexico
from which his mind is swimming with new culinary ideas
“I tried an amazing miel de maguey (agave syrup) in Oaxaca,” he says
Rodriguez has always felt comfortable in the kitchen
He remembers watching his abuela stirring gigantic pots of mole
“there was always an important meal to cook because there was always something or someone to celebrate.”
When Rodriguez moved to Santa Fe as a teenager in 1994
he was following in the footsteps of his two big brothers
“There was so much energy there,” Rodriguez says
and people were calling [Coyoté Cafe chef] Mark Miller the padre of Southwestern cooking.”
Rodriguez got his start washing dishes at Geronimo
the young dishwasher was promoted to the line
cutting vegetables and filleting fish; by the end of his 13-year tenure at Geronimo
The two chefs moved from Geronimo to Coyote Café in 2008
working side by side until DiStefano died unexpectedly in 2016
“There was chaos when Eric died,” Rodriguez recalls
and stepped into the position of executive chef.”
Rodriguez found himself yearning to open a restaurant of his own
“During my 13 years at Coyote Café and in the 13 years at Geronimo before that,” he explains
“lots of people believed in me and encouraged me to do my own thing.”
and I knew that,” he says of launching a restaurant during a pandemic
16th-century Spanish conquistadors who tried to make their new environs as European as possible
these places were traversed by groups of Indigenous people
Relying on the land for sustenance engenders a lifelong reverence for it
“My mother lives here in Santa Fe now,” Rodriguez says
she still scans the ground for edible plants
She’ll point out things that other people don’t even notice
‘you can eat that,’ or ‘don’t eat that.’”
Rodriguez approaches cooking with the same passion for finding and sharing good things
Though he’s planning to tweak a couple menu items at Zacatlán
he knows better than to shake it up too much
“I’m more interested in refining the recipes that people come here to eat,” he says
During a trip to the Yucatán several years ago
he watched a man preparing ceviche with impressive speed
“He filleted the fish beautifully,” he says
“but then discarded the carcass once he got the meat out.”
“My abuela used all of the animal when she cooked
Rodriguez’s red snapper is shaped into a curved
canoe-like vessel—fins and all—lightly fried
then stuffed with crab and saffron risotto
Technique and creativity similarly shine in Rodriguez’s Robin Egg dessert
molded chocolate shell on a bed of crumbled biscochitos and chocolate mousse
gelled mango “yolk” rests on puffy coconut cream “egg whites.” It’s over the top
“When you go to a vegan restaurant,” he says
you don’t order food that you can easily cook at home.”
Iris Fitzpatrick has called Santa Fe home since 1998
she worked at Apple Hat Bistro and Espiritu
and was director of the former Mark White Fine Art gallery in the mid-2010s
The pueblo’s located just over two hours almost directly north of Puebla city
in a region known for abundant rainfall — good for growing apples
Eighteen different varieties of apples grow in the orchards surrounding Zacatlán
so it’s perhaps not a surprise that Zacatlán is famous in Mexico for its apple wine
who arrived in the pueblo in 1777 and soon afterward began planting apple orchards
“They knew how to make wine in Spain since forever,” said Germán Morales Viveros
a descendant of Cabrera’s and the eighth generation of his family to run La Primavera Vinos y Licores
which opened in 1920 and is the oldest operating wine and liquor producer in Zacatlán
Apple harvest in Zacatlán typically starts in mid-July and goes until the beginning of August
the harvest was delayed a lot because the climate has changed,” Morales said
and this affects the growth and maturation of the fruit.”
Morales makes the apple wine in a small building that also houses the Museo del Vino (Wine Museum)
La Primavera uses 25 tonnes of apples each year to make its wine
and we mix them to give the wine a special flavor.”
The apples are first ground up and pressed to extract the juice
where it’s left to ferment for one to two weeks
“The fermentation is all-natural,” said Morales
We seal the barrels well so no air gets in and so the juice does not turn to vinegar.”
the wine — which comes out red and slightly sweet — is finally ready
so I can’t say that the wine had hints of eucalyptus or cut grass
with undertones of old leather (actual terms used to describe wine)
a hard cider immensely popular in Mexico but which I find too sweet
Morales learned the craft by working alongside his father
who passed along secrets for making the wine in the family for over 200 years
“I learned the whole process — from using the grinder and the press to knowing when the wine is ready
It is necessary to taste the wine because [each time] it is never going to be the same
We make adjustments so that there are not many differences [in taste].”
Morales has seen many changes over the years:
there was an apple that ripened in the middle of June
And although Zacatlán wines continue to be popular
Morales expressed concern about the industry’s future
“Many orchards have been lost because they have not been replanted,” he explained
“Young people do not want to work in the fields
‘I do not want to dirty my hands in the orchard
The other part of Morales’ business is making licores (liquors) from five other fruits
There’s one made with coffee (my favorite) and two cremas (cream liquors)
“Cremas are made because people demand it,” said Morales
There are photographs and antique wine-making machines on display
but it’s also where the wines are still made
it’s possible to taste (and purchase) the wines and licores
Zacatlán, a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town), also has plenty to do not related to wine. In town, there’s the Clock Museum
a lovely Zócalo (main square) featuring a floral clock and a colonial-era Franciscan monastery that was built in 1562 and now houses the municipal cultural center and a library
A short walk from the Zócalo is an overlook offering some beautiful views of the valley below
by artists commissioned by the municipality
And not far away from town, you can also check out Cascadas Tulimán (Tulimán Falls)
an ecotourism site in Potrero De Quetzalapa
Here you can can traverse a suspension bridge
do zip-lining or just walk around and see the gorgeous waterfalls
Also nearby is Chignahuapan
one of Mexico’s “Christmas towns” famous for its Christmas ornament artisan factories
It’s also known for its thermal baths
Worth visiting year-round but especially now
the town’s factories make beautiful Christmas ornaments that are created from hand-blown glass and painted individually
You can buy them downtown at this time of year or take a tour of one of the factories like the Castillo de la Esfera
Then relax from all the walking around with a massage
sauna or a nice soak at one of Chignahuapan’s many thermal waters resorts
where you can pay a day rate to pamper yourself
there are also plenty of restaurants and coffee shops to linger at in between the sightseeing
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Aztec Street eatery Zacatlán is more than worth the splurge
Can you believe the pork belly carnitas with strawberry rhubarb tamal was a starter dish?
Full disclosure? We went kind of nutty at Zacatlán (317 Aztec St.
and so rarely do I get the chance to just go full-tilt that when a dining companion and I made up our minds to sample as many items as we could
I felt a form of culinary freedom more generally reserved for the rich
For a brief and shining evening I eschewed my normal propensity for mid-priced burritos or drive-thru tacos and entered an era of indulgence
And while I most certainly understand such occasions are rare
Somebody give Zacatlán chef and owner Eduardo Rodriguez a James Beard Award or something; somebody tell him I love him
The temptation to return gnawed on me in the way only a truly fine dining establishment can
I’d pop in for brunch from time to time to enjoy the world-class service and ambiance (which is a little weird as the Aztec Street location once housed a coffee shop in which I whiled away many high and/or drunk hours as a young wastrel)
I can finally say I’ve had dinner at Zacatlán
Though its menu wound up a little more pricy than I can usually swing
one of the more creative and innovative chefs working in Santa Fe right now
We began the evening with a special dish of chilled
raw oysters topped with sliced scallops and served with a spicy accoutrement similar to a minimal pico de gallo ($26 for six)
and I overheard numerous fellow diners espousing the dish’s excellence
I struggled with the squishier aspects of this one
This came much to the delight of my companion
who buckled down and gnoshed as many as possible on their own
I was a little more focused on our other starters
anyway: a burrata salad with cherry heirloom tomatoes
plus the dreamy pork belly carnitas with a strawberry rhubarb tamal and frise and apple salad served over a date-based mole ($22)
is it too early to call something the dish of a lifetime
Rodriguez’s knack for the creative was on full display here
The exterior crisp/internal tenderness of the pork belly mingled so brilliantly with the subtly sweet notes of strawberry and dates—it tasted like the strangest combination of home and abject newness
Dates seem to be appearing on more local menus these days
and this is good news for us all—perhaps we can get beyond the idea that they’re an old-person fruit that exists for digestive purposes and little else
this dish ranked among the most ingenious I’ve seen on a Santa Fe menu; it could easily have served as a main course
was as fresh as they come and a veritable cacophony of flavors and textures
You want a firm cherry tomato; you want a burrata that practically spills across the plate; the salty bite of the prosciutto added just the right savory notes
we kept the pork train rolling with cochinita pibil
another mole dish with a tamal de olla (a traditionally pan-cooked number) and escabeche most likely created with the very pork that stars in the item
This one came with a number of house made tortillas and quickly became an assemble-your-own-taco affair
I hadn’t thought Rodriguez could outdo the pork belly
but the more substantial cut of meat eaten in tandem with the darker
more traditional mole kicked off one of those restaurant moments I’ll surely elicit for years to come in arguments about who ate the best thing where
A subtle dusting of Chihuahua cheese offered tangier notes as well
a fine counterpoint to the earthy mole flavors
I’m honestly salivating right now just writing about it
My companion selected the lamb shank barbacoa served with herby green rice
the sauce’s complexity highlighted the rich lamb well
and while you wouldn’t think refried black beans could stand out in any particular way
Despite having consumed more than enough for the evening
splitting a brioche bread pudding tamal with saffron and sweet corn ice cream ($10)
as well as a simpler dish of churros with cajeta and strawberries
Those in search of a less obvious or even less sweet dessert would do well to think of the bread pudding
Its flavorful ice cream topper seems odd at first but grows on you
particularly with the included gooey cajeta
You want a churro to be warm and almost squishy inside
but crispy and almost grainy on the outside
the whole meal delivered in a way that somehow lived up to our outrageous expectations
Everything at Zacatlán shone brighter than seems possible in retrospect
from the post-dinner coffee and pitch-perfect service from our waiter
Karla (whom I’m naming because she was just so damn on top of things)
It’s hard for me to suggest more expensive meals as a man with very few chances to try them myself
When it comes to chef Rodriguez and Zacatlán (which was
a Beard semi-finalist in 2022 for best new restaurant)
SFR Culture Editor Alex De Vore has written about the Santa Fe culture scene for over a decade and won awards for doing so
He's pretty tired of Americana and still hopes new punk bands might happen
plates one of his specialty enchiladas cochinita pibil Thursday as the restaurant ramps up for lunch
The James Beard Awards recently announced Rodriguez is a finalist for its Best Chef Southwest honor
A plate of Chef Eduardo Rodriguez’s specialty enchiladas cochinita pibil covered in tomatillo Hoja Santa Sauce
The James Beard Awards recently announced Rodriguez
Chef Eduardo Rodriguez last week at his Zacatlán restaurant in Santa Fe
The James Beard Awards recently announced Rodriguez is up for Best Chef Southwest
Rodriguez calls his food a “south Mexico” style
with influences from his travels to other Mexican states such as Yucatán
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Eduardo Rodriguez remembers the early days when food started calling his name
where he is from and where his family owned a farm
“They were cutting all the squash blossoms
They were cutting and preparing the food there in the field,” he recalls
“But when [my grandmother] was making it with all those herbs
is no longer eating that “weird food,” as he now jokingly calls it
Nor is he cooking it at his Santa Fe eatery
which features a fine dining flair with the plates representing edible art
USA Today named Zacatlán a Top 10 new restaurant in the country in 2021
Condé Nast Traveler called Rodriguez’s restaurant “one of the hottest tickets in town.” The food website Eater named it among the 23 essential restaurants in Santa Fe
it was named a semifinalist in the James Beard Awards for Best New Restaurant
But the latest recognition may be Rodriguez’s biggest yet
he was named among the finalists for Best Chef Southwest in the James Beard Awards
an honor last won by Sazón chef Fernando Olea and
Mark Kiffin of The Compound and Mark Miller of Coyote Cafe
“It’s in my soul,” Rodriguez says of cooking
where are you going?’ ‘To the restaurant.’ But it’s my love; it’s in my veins.”
Rodriguez remembers spending a lot of time with his grandmother
a traditional Mexican sauce similar to New Mexico’s red chile in style though not in taste
Eduardo Rodriguez said he felt the kitchen calling “when I saw him in the kitchen with all the line cooks and the chefs and all that energy.”
Rodriguez worked for a couple of months washing dishes at Coyote Cafe and
moved to Santa Fe full time and began his ascent in the city’s culinary world
and that led to cutting meats and vegetables and eventually being mentored by the late Eric DiStefano
he saw me and [said] ‘I think you want to learn more,’ ” Rodriguez recalled
I don’t want to be washing dishes all the time
I want to just learn from you and every single guy in the kitchen.’ ”
when DiStefano purchased Coyote Cafe with Quinn Stephenson
Rodriguez joined his mentor at the restaurant and worked his way up to executive chef after DiStefano died
Rodriguez still yearned for something of his own
And during the year that was the start of the coronavirus pandemic
At Zacatlán — which roughly means “the land where the grass grows high” in Nahuatl and pays homage to both Rodriguez’s hometown and the city in Puebla
Mexico — he makes a variety of Mexican and Mexican-inspired dishes
That includes foods like moles and chiles rellenos
It also includes lamb shank barbacoa and fried red snapper
He says he fillets the snapper and puts the meat and calabacitas back into the fish’s frame after it’s fried
formerly of Coyote Cafe before Rodriguez began working under DiStefano
called Rodriguez and his restaurant “amazing.”
who first met Rodriguez back when they both worked at Geronimo
said Rodriguez’s compelling traits include his work ethic and his clear vision for what he wants to bring to the table
“You’ve got to be a little crazy and a lot passionate to be in this industry,” said Stephenson
“And I think when he named his restaurant Zacatlán
he had a really clear vision of what he wanted to do
You can be a great chef and be well-rounded
but he’s trying to accomplish something that has an identity
typically takes formal training at culinary schools
That’s something he doesn’t have but doesn’t necessarily crave
It’s his passion for cooking and the friends he’s made at other restaurants
A certificate is just an afterthought at this point
“It’s better to have a passion than to have a paper,” he said
His next step includes taking over the TerraCotta Wine Bistro with his brother Jose
like a developer talking about the buildings they’ve built or plan to build
or like a doctor talking about the lives they’ve saved or will in the future
He speaks of the long hours it takes to achieve a goal
That’s something he wants to continue doing
Keep up with what's going on in the local business scene
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And the Feria de la Manzana apple fair is the absolute best time of year to visit
It coincides with the apple harvest in Puebla
which typically begins in the end of July and lasts until around the end of August
The fair made news this year due to a planned addition to the schedule of bullfights
which ended up being canceled after residents protested
But the apple festival — the most important annual event in Zacatlán — is about celebrating Puebla’s harvest with numerous stands filled with apples and other related products
a long tent located just off the zócalo housed farmers showcasing their apples and vendors a variety of other products
Also under the tent were stands packed with delicious foods and desserts made with apples
a traditional puff pastry with a whole apple inside
walnuts or raisins,” vendor Angeles Moreno Ramírez explained
The medium-sweet Rayada variety is the apple of choice for these pastries
Judith Rojas Cruz of Panaderia Betos bakery was selling small apple pies
apple muffins and the pueblo’s famous pan de Zacatlán at an adjacent stand
“There are burras and pan almohada.” She uses different doughs for them
and the tops of the burras are sprinkled with sesame seeds
Jeanete Pérez Hernández was tempting fairgoers with various apple desserts: cheesecake
“All of these use Rayada apples because they are more acidic and juicier
Walking through the fair and around Zacatlán’s streets can work up a thirst
and one stand offered a traditional way to quench it: pulque
a traditional fermented Mexican alcoholic beverage
“More than 50% of the land in Zacatlán is used to grow agave to make pulque,” Rafael Amador Marquéz told me
He’s part of a fourth generation of pulque makers at Rancho Tepemayuca
he was offering plain pulque and a number of curados
made with pulque and fruit or other flavors
“Coco is my favorite,” said Francisco Arias who had stopped by for a drink
Amador also sold something that’s relatively new: distilled pulque
“It takes 10 liters of pulque to make one liter of distilled,” he said
the pulque is fermented for three months in French oak barrels
“More time yields more alcohol,” he said simply
Amador also offers a tour called La Ruta del Pulque that takes people to visit agave growers and shows them how pulque is made
Walking through the fair works up an appetite
the best way to satisfy your hunger is with one of Puebla’s most famous dishes: chiles en nogada
a poblano chile stuffed with 11 ingredients
It’s smothered in a salsa made with walnuts and topped with parsley and pomegranate seeds
“The season for chile en nogada is July 1 to the end of September,” said Mari Luz Martínez Barrios
which Martínez prefers because of their consistency
Although she kindly demonstrated the process for making her chiles en nogada
you would not know how to make it because you do not have all the flavorings.”
But despite all the tasty food and beverages here
who along with her husband Jesús Garrido León owns Bella Vista farm
She stood with her children behind a wooden stand holding their three types of apples for sale: Rayada
and that can be used for juices and salads,” she said
“Rayada is acidic and is used for baking and breads
and Delicia is medium; it is used for wines and sidra (hard cider)
Here it is good for growing apples because it is humid,” she explained
Their farm has been in the family for five generations
and she and her husband plan to pass it on to their children
“I want to continue [growing apples] because it is enjoyable to be in nature,” said their son Jesús Enrique Garnido Ortega
Daughter Anete Garnido Ortega plans to learn how to make sidra (hard cider)
may be challenged in the years to come: although the family had a good harvest this year
climate change has been affecting the apples
Luciano Cabrera Luna — whose 15-hectare farm (38 acres) in the nearby pueblo of Jicolapa was one of the largest ones attending the fair — also attributes changes she’s noticed in her apples to climate change
“The fruit doesn’t develop adequately,” she said
but now there is less rain and the apples are smaller.”
but they didn’t even grow due to a lack of rain
carrying buckets of water to them.” They have to plant new trees every year
there are plenty of freshly harvested apples still available in Zacatlán
You can find apple stands lining the main road leading into town
and a dozen pickup trucks laden with apples park near the corner of Francisco Cosio and Hermanegido Galeana streets
And if you need more of an excuse than apples to make the drive
Zacatlán is one of Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos and worth a trip any time of year: visit the clock museum
a 16th-century church and ex-convent and a beautiful zócalo ringed with shops
an ecotourism site with a beautiful waterfall and scenery and paths
Chef Mark Kiffin of The Compound is shown with a Berkshire Pork Belly at his restaurant on Tuesday
Zacatlán chef Eduardo Rodriguez and The Compound
were finalists for top awards announced Monday
Zacatlán chef Eduardo Rodriguez won’t be coming home with a James Beard award; nor will The Compound
was beat out for Best Chef Southwest by Rene Andrade
who heads the restaurant Bacanora in Phoenix
Steve Riley of Mesa Provisions in Albuquerque was also a finalist for the coveted award
in a field of restaurant finalists spread across Texas
The prestigious James Beard Awards were hosted Monday evening at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. The event was streamed live on eater.com
a digital news site focused on food and dining
he would have joined a list of James Beard Best Chef winners from New Mexico that include Kiffin
Sazón’s Fernando Olea and Mark Miller of Coyote Cafe
with Kiffin winning in 2005 and Miller in 1996
Zacatlán was named a semifinalist in 2022 for Best New Restaurant
which Kiffin has helmed for more than two decades
recently achieved the AAA Four Diamond rating
a finalist in the Outstanding Bakery category
Mark Kiffin’s Compound and Zacatlán’s Eduardo Rodriguez among 2024 James Beard Award finalists
today’s announcement whittles down New Mexico’s nominees to four
I woke up early this morning and it felt like too many good things were happening,” Rodriguez tells SFR
adding that the nomination is technically the second for Zacatlán
I guess I’ll have to get someone to explain to me the rules
but I think the next step is going to Chicago.”
amount to a waiting game with this year’s crop of winners slated to be announced at a special ceremony with the James Beard Foundation in Chicago this June
The award announcement isn’t the only recent bit of big news for Rodriguez
who tells SFR he and his brother José just signed the lease to take over the TerraCotta Wine Bistro on Johnson Street
“We’re working on that together,” he explains
“and it’s going to be a completely different menu from Zacatlán—picture it like more American
Rodriguez adds that he and his brother will keep the restaurant’s name
having picked up numerous nominations over the years and a win for Best Chef: Southwest in 2005
five years after he bought and took over The Compound from original owners Will and Barbara Houghton—who opened the restaurant in 1966
so it’s huge and we’re beyond thrilled,” Kiffin says
“This category is…it’s not just about the restaurant—I mean
but it’s also how you take care of your staff
your service within that community; it’s all the hard work.”
I’m still here every day we’re open—but I want to say we’re grounded by the locals
but we’re a tiny town and the locals are so important to me
Santa Fe’s restaurants have a long history with the James Beard Awards
including multiple nominations for Restaurant Martín’s Martín Rios over the years
plus a win for Best Chef: Southwest going to Sazón’s Fernando Olea in 2022
Zacatlán, Puebla draws thousands of tourists annually for its apple harvest events and for the murals that adorn several streets and buildings
But should you find yourself in this Magical Town
one attraction in Zacatlán that doesn’t get as much attention but is worth checking out is the Museo de la Relojería (The Clock Museum)
which calls itself “a completely interactive museum,” where you can touch devices that are hundreds of years old
and watch the manufacturing of clocks done by people who have dedicated their lives to creating devices of beauty that are also functional
Humans have been trying to accurately measure time for thousands of years
Examples of these devices — both actual and reproductions — may be seen at this museum
founder of Relojes Centenario (Centenary Clocks)
the first manufacturer of monumental clocks in Latin America
is located on the second floor of the Relojes Centenario building
Visitors first pass through the area where clocks are made (there will be more about the company later)
El Hombre y la Medición del Tiempo (Man and the Measurement of Time)
occupies one wall of the stairwell leading to the museum
A portrait of Alberto is at the top center of the mural
and he’s surrounded by important people and events in his life
and below are 12 figures that represent his children
When you enter the first room it gets a bit more interesting
one of humanity’s earliest methods for quantifying and measuring time
used by the Egyptians as early as 1500 B.C
and other civilizations like the Babylonians
The museum has at least 33 different types of sundials on display
including vertical and horizontal examples
You can also see how water clocks worked here
they were an improvement over sundials for timekeeping since they didn’t depend on the sun
but instead on a constant flow of water from or into a container
The walls and cases are also jammed with examples of the many other devices humanity has used and continues to use
In one corner of the museum is one particularly important clock to Zacatlán
Olvera born on a farm outside Zacatlán in 1882
became fascinated with clocks when he repaired a broken one in his family’s home
called the Reloj Piloto (Prototype Clock) in 1909 and finished it three years later
he decided to make his first monumental clock
That clock was installed in the Santiago Apostol church in Chignahuapan
The name Centenario was chosen to honor the 100th anniversary of the end of the Mexican War of Independence
the company has built over 2,000 monumental clocks
as well as government and office buildings
is the floral clock located in Zacatlán’s zócalo
The clock has two separate faces controlled by the same mechanism and plays nine different melodies
A melody is played only four times a day—at 6 a.m.
— and different ones are played at different times of the year
The company built another floral clock that’s located in Mexico City’s Parque Hundido (Sunken Park) which is in the Benito Juárez neighborhood
At 78 square meters (840 square feet) it’s one of the world’s largest
people may tour the factory that makes monumental clocks
About a dozen men dressed in what look like blue lab coats work intently at their benches
“This factory has 35 employees in total,” said Oscar Hernández
we make and assemble mechanical and electromechanical clocks.” Mechanical clocks are powered by a weight or mainspring
while electromechanical clocks are powered by electricity or an electromagnet
The people who work at Relojes Centenario are dedicated to clockmaking
and the majority have worked there for decades
“I entered when I was 22 years old,” he said with a hint of pride in his voice
He happily showed off a clock that he made on his own
“I made and assembled all the pieces for this clock,” he explained
Zacatlán keeps brunch and beyond brilliantly concise
Having not seen my dear friend Benji for some time
“Available for a brunchy/lunchy thing tomorrow?”
we were scouring downtown for parking near Aztec Street
where relatively new (I said “relatively”) eatery Zacatlán (317 Aztec St.
Zacatlán’s owner/chef Eduardo Rodriguez has non-brunch menus inspired by the Southwest as well as his homeland of Zacatlán
items like the fish tacos)—but this was Sunday
we even felt a little off ordering chips and guacamole ($10) as a starter
but upon receiving hot chips so fresh they seemed to have been made right when we ordered them and guacamole so wonderfully textured between creamy and chunky
the decision paid for itself a hundred times over
That’s not even getting into the white tablecloth dining room and friendly staff that was attentive but never hovered
For an old-school Santa Fean such as myself
dining in the location of the former Aztec Café coffee shop might have felt weird
you’d never know a bunch of teens who smoked too much and were constantly in search of weed hung around this location a million years ago
it’s a nicely appointed dining room that rates someplace near the feel of fine dining but without the pomp and circumstance; it’s comfortable and welcoming
phasing from disappointment over what seemed like a scant
few offerings at first to excitement over a lack of clutter
Some brunch places I won’t name cram so many variations of bread and eggs onto a menu that it feels overwhelming and under-focused
a handful of main dishes and just three desserts (including churros that we tragically had no room to consume)—it’s a testament to the idea of value aligning not with overabundance
I could just kick myself for not having gone sooner
Benji allowed me to select his dish—the Southwestern Surf and Turf Eggs Benedict ($18) with both ham and salmon
I selected the huevos rancheros ($12.50); eggs over easy
salsa on the side and served atop house-made corn tortillas with just the right-sized dollop of guac on top
Rodriguez’s guacamole is a revelation and added both texture and flavor to the expertly cooked eggs
The tortillas were revelatory as well and straddled a combination of crispy at the edges but absorbent enough to soak up the yolk
I discovered a bed of flavorful rice that carried a complementary hint of herb
Best huevos rancheros I’ve had in Santa Fe in years
opined that you wouldn’t think salmon and ham would work together so harmoniously in the same bite—but somehow did
The poached eggs atop the English muffin were firm and runny in the right ratio
he said; the hollandaise never congealed like it has been known to do elsewhere
Peppering in guacamole-laden chips throughout the meal worked
and is a must for any fan of the crispier textures
let me just ask if you’ve ever crumbled fresh tortilla chips into your egg dishes
Zacatlán serves up a damn fine cup of coffee
and all for a fairly affordable price point
We’ve even discussed returning as soon as possible to sample other menu items—the chicken and waffles alone is almost enough to make me go back to eating meat...just once to get the idea of it
at noon on a Sunday (being the brunchiest day and hour of the week)
So I’m just going to say it: Add Zacatlán to your must-try list immediately
I’ve never heard a bad thing about the place
where the dining business runs a tad competitive and the options are seemingly endless
I must get back to Aztec Street for some more chips and guac
and it’s probably time to assemble a party for dinner
Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos (Magical Towns) tourism promotion program has been a phenomenal success
introducing city dwellers to small rural towns
too often those same visitors don’t make it out of the town’s historic center
Mary Carmen Olvera Trejo has found one way to entice them out and spread the tourism money around a little better
it is home to quaint houses and a massive church and monastery complex
One thing that sets it apart is that it is home to a monumental clock industry
epitomized by the main square’s “garden clock.” But there is more to see on the outskirts of town
such as the spectacular Jilgueros Ravine with its waterfall
Olvera is a member of a prominent local family and involved in many civic affairs
suggested a commemorative mural for the event
and the two arranged for American tile artist Isaiah Zagar and local volunteers to work together to create Homenaje al Maíz (Homage to Corn) in the tunnel that links the ravine’s lookout point to the road leading to the town center
Olvera was nervous when the images made from broken pieces of tile
glass and mirrors started going up on the walls
but it soon became apparent that the result would be anything but graffiti
featuring an image of the god Quetzalcóatl
Olvera recruited another artist from the United States
to help design and direct a new mosaic mural dedicated to the area’s apple farming
The work is titled Los 300 Años de Ser Zacatlán de las Manzanas (300 Years of Being Zacatlán of the Apples)
referring to the first recorded reference of the town having the appended “de las Manzanas.” Finished in May 2015
architectural or cultural element related to Zacatlán
It was placed on the outer cemetery wall by both the tunnel and the lookout point
Olvera was completely hooked on the potential of community-assisted mural art
She continued by commissioning the mural Vivir en el Universo Náhuatl (Living in the Náhuatl Universe) for the back cemetery wall
The front walls next to the main entrance were treated to a series of biblical scenes
Olvera says these projects have been “… like hugs from the artists to give warmth
These projects also had technical issues that led to an innovation I have not seen anywhere else: the biblical faces required a certain level of realism
and the haphazard pieces that result in smashing tile and glass could not provide sufficient detail
They found that by using end nipper pliers
they could snap off very small and exact cuts
and its possibilities are strongly seen in the series of murals that followed
Olvera turned her attention to a small winding alley called the Callejón de Hueso (Bone Alley)
even small towns like Zacatlán have their seedy sections
despite it being between the historic center and the Jilgueros Ravine
The alley is bordered on both sides by two- and three-story houses with few windows
These walls have become a winding photo album
recreations of faded black-and-white photographs of Zacatlán in the past
with the title Zacatlán de Mis Recuerdos (The Zacatlán of My Memories)
The change in the neighborhood is phenomenal
It is hard to believe that people once did drugs here late at night
The murals have been extremely effective in leading foot traffic along the residential streets in town between the main plaza and the ravine
small businesses such as restaurants and handcraft shops are opening in this area
People have become interested in the old abandoned tombs
The murals give residents pride because they now live among something truly special — something they themselves helped to create
and in more than seven years of community murals
Olvera shows absolutely no signs of slowing down
she established the Casa de Vitralmuralista
an art gallery and workshop dedicated to this craft in support of current and future projects
Located on Callejón Linda Vista (near Porfirio Díaz)
México Lindo y Querido (Mexico Beautiful and Loved)
This mural will highlight the regional dress of Mexico’s states
using even more refined techniques than what was used in the Callejón del Hueso project
Olvera’s main role is logistics — recruiting people and fundraising
mostly from Olvera’s very wide circle of contacts in Mexico and the United States
but also tile and cement from both companies and individuals
it was just her and some of her family and friends
mural-making is part of Zacatlán’s culture
with residents and other participants showing off their handiwork to friends
• If you are interested in knowing more about or even participating in one of the mural projects, you can contact Olvera on Facebook or on WhatsApp at 797-976-0018
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
Alkeme at Open Kitchen up for Best New Restaurant while The Compound nabs a nom for Outstanding Restaurant and Dolina and Zacatlán chefs qualify for Best Chef: Southwest
Nationwide experts agree: Santa Fe restaurants and chefs prove to be some of the most exciting and innovative in the country. The newly released nominees for the 2024 James Beard Awards showcase some of the city’s finest again this year
Recent shortlists for the lauded food prizes have included the likes of Horno and El Chile Toreado (though
and Restaurant Martín’s Martín Rios has earned a number of Beard Awards nominations over the years; Sazón chef Fernando Olea won the Best Chef: Southwest award just two years ago
and remains the only guy for whom many locals will readily eat crickets
The Compound’s Kiffin won the Best Chef: Southwest honor in 2005 and has owned the Alexander Girard-designed fine dining institution on Canyon Road since 2000
nonetheless remains meaningful after all these years
“When I think of the restaurants that have won this award—Spago
we’re proud of the work we do here,” he says
“I come in here every day with a feeling that we have to back up who we are
And we’re very much still a local’s restaurant
“It really surprised me to hear this morning
but my friends called to tell me,” he says
Rodriguez expects to unveil his special event menus on the Zacatlán site by next week
Dolina’s O’Brien is similarly surprised by her nomination. She’s built one of Santa Fe’s most popular brunch spots with a combination of delectable pastries and carefully crafted dishes that cull from her Slovakian heritage and American dining tradition. (Oh, and Dolina boasts a killer breakfast burrito
too.) There’s been a line out the door practically since it first opened in 2017
and the Beard nod represents many years of hard work for O’Brien
who cut her teeth at restaurants like Café Fina and Geronimo
making her first-ever Beard nomination feel particularly impactful
“I feel appreciated for what I do,” she explains
and I have amazing cooks that put their love into the food daily and front-of-house staff that is kind and attentive and sweet
O’Brien says that enduring popularity and nominations are nice
but she’ll be happy to stay put in her current location on Guadalupe Street
working to create more from-scratch dishes
there’s a lot to be said for her restaurant’s general energy
“I’d rather have a line out the door than a giant restaurant only half or three-quarters full.”
A nomination for Karels’ Alkeme at the corner of West Alameda and Don Gaspar Avenue feels particularly noteworthy as she and her executive chef Erica Tai only opened the restaurant last summer following a series of outstanding tasting menu events
Karels, of course, has long been known for her commitment to fusion cuisine with a particular bent toward the Vietnamese. She even hosts culinary trips through her home country yearly and, in 2022, was kind enough to cook a meal with SFR for a cover story on local chefs (Stop, Shop and Cook; July
is to embrace a broad sense of Asian cuisines while paying homage to her Vietmanese background and Tai’s Taiwanese heritage
“We actually just called Erica; she’s in Taiwan for her annual homeward journey
so she’s there and we called her and she was amazingly elated even though it was the middle of the night for her
Erica and I are definitely very proud of what we’ve established.”
The nomination is also the first for both Tai and Karels
who have had a protege-mentor relationship through Karels’ Open Kitchen culinary education program over the last few years
Karels further explains the dishes that have put them on the map will likely stick around
though evolution has always been a key strategy for the business and will continue to be a core component
“The whole essence of alchemy is transformation,” she says
We honor our roots and traditions as chef Erica and I transform
and I think that vision is the reason why we’ve been selected.”
The winners for this year’s James Beard Awards will be announced on April 3
with a special ceremony to follow in June in Chicago
Many people who visit Zacatlán de las Manzanas, Puebla
are attracted by its status as a Magical Town
its murals and its apple harvest season events
But probably not many who visit know that just 20 minutes away is a beautiful ecotourism park
As you make your way there from the center of Zacatlán
be aware that once you’re off the main highway (Route 119)
the road is hard-packed dirt and there are stretches that are steep
and if another car is approaching someone has to yield
There’s a sign that reads “This is not a high-speed road,” which seemed self-evident but maybe not
The park has three zones: Zone 1 leads to the Tulimán falls
which at 300 meters is the second highest waterfall in Mexico
but expect to get a little wet at the end of it as mist rises off the waterfall
The trail in Zone 2 is a little more challenging
There’s a sign warning people not to attempt it with heart problems
but although the trail’s a little steep in places
Anyone in halfway decent shape should be able to easily manage it
and there are a couple of benches along the way if you need to take a break
There’s a particularly enchanting stretch of the trail that’s shaded by trees filled with Spanish moss
It takes about 10 minutes to reach a small pool filled with mineral water where you can soak for a bit (if you’ve brought a bathing suit)
and then it’s on to the arbol hueco (the hollow tree)
To get there means crossing the puente colgante (suspension bridge)
It’s worth a bit of terror for the great view of the interesting rock formation below
For the more adventurous there’s also a zip-line and what’s advertised as a puente extremo (extreme bridge)
which is way more challenging to cross than the suspension bridge
There are safety precautions in place — people are attached by rope to the bridge and wear helmets
and there are guide wires to hold onto — but I was relieved that it and the zip-line were closed the day we visited
The leisurely stroll to La Cascada del Cajón (drawer waterfall) ends at the Unión de Dos Rios (union of two rivers)
It’s possible to walk along one of the rivers for a bit
It takes about two hours to complete a tour of the park
and a couple of quesadillas and a cold beer are a perfect way to end the day
Tulimán Falls is billed as an ecotourism site that’s been designed to promote sustainable development via recreation that minimally impacts the natural environment and protects biodiversity for future generations
There are campsites and cabins in the park for those who want to stay overnight
A heads-up about a couple of things: although Zacatlán’s only about 80 miles from Puebla city
it’s about a 2.5-hour drive to get there because of the winding roads
and it became very clear why there are warning signs about it on the highways
The Fork: Reader Recs: Joe's Dining
The Fork: Three whys for Five Guys
We thought that we would never find a donut that was so divine
While cruising the streets with a buddy the other day looking for a hot cup of coffee (which we did get and from our hands-down favorite shop Ohori's)
Let us first admit that La Forkette has tried to get us to sample apple cider donuts every fall dating as far back as we can remember. But we're a diehard toasted coconut donut lover, so we've resisted and saved up all our love for them coconut shreds. But when we entered Whoo's Donuts on Cerrillos Road that day
the coconut baddies were tragically gone already
Not only is every worker we've ever met super-duper-nice
we've been known to demolish one of those lavender blue corn donuts in
But now you may consider us fully converted to the ol' apple cider
Whoo's has somehow managed to create an almost fizzy texture with the cakey donut interior
the lightly be-sugar'd and cinnamon-y exterior hit that perfect sweetness you want—not lacking in sweetness
they let us bring our off-campus coffees inside
though the worker told us they serve Ohori's coffee
it all boils down to that all-time great human pleasure of wanting something
not quite getting it but finding something better
and let us give an honorable mention to the vanilla sprinkle cake donut at Whoo's
but we assume that donut workers are all exactly like this guy from this old Dunkin' Donuts commercial
just...this is PRECISELY how we picture Dunkin' Donuts patrons
In this week's print edition of SFR, behold—TerraCotta Wine Bistro kicks serious ass under Zacatlán chef Eduardo Rodriguez
*We got a couple letters about how we were too mean to Joe's Dining last week
but the vast majority of letters agree—it's a totally cute restaurant with killer staff that just plain doesn't have very good food
Most Helpful Tip of the Week (a barely edited letter from a reader):
"Why has the Reporter become a negative (sic) in dining places
Everyone is different and everyone has a right to that difference
Why are you pointing out what you don't like?"
*With the gloriousness of reader Bright D admonishing us for pointing out what we didn't like about Joe's Dining by pointing out what they don't like about The Fork aside
That's the whole thing we do here in this newsletter
"Please dunk on the Santa Fe Foodies [Facebook] group!"
*Since we always count a good dunk prompt as helpful
reader David H gets his wish with this dunk: All them Santa Fe Foodies people need to caaaaaalm down a bit
and if you had a bad experience and mention it
it's because you want small business owners to die
though—it's impressive what they've been able to build in terms of sheer numbers
but posting there seems scary a lot of the time
When it comes to sheer number of food lovers
our computer won't let us sign into Facebook right now to score a link
but if you steer your FB to "Santa Fe Foodies," you'll find it
Reader Sasha M is not wrong. As we said last week
SFAR: Santa Fe Home Sales Mostly Down in First Quarter
City of Santa Fe Announces Salary Increases
executive director of the Albuquerque-based New Mexico farming coop organization Agri-Cultura Network
is a nominee in the leadership award category
says the governor must uphold her duty to protect New Mexicans and ensure a healthy and safe future for all
“The governor can get on a national platform and say what she wants to about being a leader in addressing the climate crisis,” Juarez tells SFR
“but those of us that live on the frontlines and live with the everyday reality
and water,” NMED Compliance and Enforcement Director Bruce Baizel says in a statement
“Robust enforcement also protects taxpayers from expensive cleanup costs when bad actors pollute our environment and walk away.”
who has 30 years of experience as an ethnobotanist
along with a doctoral dissertation on curanderismo
“People are seeking out all possible forms of healing,” Enos says
which is doing its thing in a real specific way
But what if you have an emotional or spiritual crisis going on
something that modern medicine can’t deal with?” The store offers upcoming courses such as an early spring medicinal plant walk (April 20) and wild spring edibles for food and medicine (April 24)
The National Weather Service forecasts a sunny day, with a high temperature of 68 degrees as we head into a red flag warning tomorrow
when temperatures in the high 60s will be accompanied by high wind gusts
we may see more snow Friday night into Saturday
Thanks for reading! The Word can’t wait to read Leslie Jamison’s take on gaslighting
Julia Goldberg is the former editor and publisher of the Santa Fe Reporter
and wrote its daily Morning Word newsletter
tile artist Isaiah Zagar began his first projects in Mexico
little did he know how far his students would take what he taught them – both literally and figuratively
A mural in the tiny mountain town of Zacatlán, Puebla sparked the establishment of Vitromurales
a non-profit dedicated to transforming derelict walls into works of art that bring locals together and tourists to see what they create
They refined Zagar’s techniques to create their own unique style
which captivated art lovers in another small town far to the north – Storm Lake
Witter Gallery board member Patricia Hampton was so blown away by what project coordinator Maricarmen Olvera Trejo and her team accomplished that she knew she wanted to create something similar there
a mural dedicated to monarch butterflies and Storm Lake’s immigrant communities was unveiled at the town’s Buena Vista University
It was a natural combination as the town is on one of the insect’s migration routes between Canada and Mexico
and half the town speaks a language other than English
The Buena Vista mural is the largest project completed so far by Olvera Trejo and her crew
the Zacatlán artists coordinated various projects based on local culture and scenery
This includes a portrait of Pulitzer-prize-winning journalist and resident Art Cullen
who was left “speechless” by his likeness in cut tile but did write in an op-ed that the work opened possibilities to “…transform [Storm Lake] by public art.”
Serendipity played a role in bringing these two towns together
The catalyst for these projects is retired stockbroker and philanthropist Dick Davis
He met Maricarmen Olvera Trejo during his travels in Mexico and later artist Isaiah Zagar in Philadelphia
It was his idea to do the first mural in Zacatlan
but Olvera Trejo’s tireless advocacy got residents to help embrace tile art
Davis’ meeting with Storm Lake’s Patricia Hampton was also by chance
and he wasted no time presenting the Zacatlán community’s accomplishments
While Storm Lake has truly embraced the concept of community transformation through tile work
the murals here are not the first that Davis has sponsored in the U.S
After Zacatlán put Vitromurales on the map
Davis arranged for the artists to create a bear-themed mural for the Vallejo Charter School in his home state of California
The purpose was to promote the art and cultural exchange that happens naturally as Mexican artists work with U.S
In addition, he tapped San Luis Potosí artist Marisa Martínez to create murals in Carlsbad and Alleghany. Her work with Davis began with a project to cover a fountain in her city’s iconic Tangamanga Park, impressing Davis with her advocacy for tile work in the state.
was co-sponsored by Butterfly Farms in Vista
Its theme is the conservation of the Western Monarch butterfly
which migrates to the coast of California instead of Mexico
The project’s novelty initially caused some confusion
with participant Monica Mier noting that “A neighbor thought we were creating graffiti and protested.” But with the mural now well-established
The Alleghany mural is located in a near-ghost town in Sierra County and is dedicated to the area’s mining history
Martinez has not limited herself to work sponsored by Davis
she was invited to create a surrealist-inspired mural on the cinder block wall surrounding a private home in Laveen
This mural is called Árbol de la vida or Tree of Life
In the center of this mural is “…the Eye of God
The home’s owners were so impressed with the work that she will be completing a second piece in December in a similar style
Martínez is not the only artist to find opportunities on her own. Natasha Moraga runs a community-based tile mural program in Puerto Vallarta that has transformed a number of the city’s iconic sites
she did get her original inspiration from Zagar and his work
CoExist Gallery owner Shawn Gold came across Moraga’s work in Puerto Vallarta and knew he had to do something similar on his building in the former steel town of Steelton
He contacted the artist and the two began setting up a project that would not only cover three sides of Gold’s building but adapt the history and culture of the community
The design of the finished project was a collaboration among Moraga
glass artist Carrie Strope of Calyx Glass in Nebraska
and members of the Steelton community who submitted ideas
a local company donated a piece of steel forged in the town that once formed part of the Golden Gate Bridge
the community aspect was just as important to Gold as the art
“We want[ed] to bring the community together and provide a sense of ownership… something that a lot of people could contribute to.”
the attractions include the durable beauty of the tile as well as the impressive ways that Mexican artists have found to refine the techniques taught by Zagar
The human connections created through these projects are just as important
are introduced to what the Mexicans have developed
with some receiving benefits that have nothing to do with art
Buena Vista University Spanish students took advantage of the Zacatlán artists’ presence to practice their language skills
and another group of students will head to Puebla in the spring to do the same
Participating physically in the projects is not practical for the long-retired Davis
that gives me a vicarious feeling as if I’m engaged
and cultural exchanges that transform communities and neighborhoods.”
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Last year the Dicastery for the Causes of Saints authorized the first miracle attributed to the intercession of Moisés Lira Serafín
which is currently scheduled for September 14 at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City
According to the biography from the Dicastery for the Causes of Saints
"Moisés Lira Serafín was born in Zacatlán (Puebla
He felt called to the priesthood and "joined the invitation of Fr
founder of the Missionaries of the Holy Spirit
During the religious persecution in Mexico in 1926
he formed "groups of acolytes and catechists
in order to encourage young people in spiritual growth and in the exercise of the apostolate."
Later he "founded the Congregation of the Missionaries of Charity of Mary Immaculate with the mission of helping all men to live as children loved by God."
Many were inspired by his life and continue to invoke his intercession
The miracle that paved the way for his canonization was a married couple who were expecting a child
The pregnancy had many difficulties and doctors said that there was no chance their child would survive
the couple prayed a novena and the child survived the pregnancy and was born healthy
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Street art has been the muralism of our time
taking graffiti from eyesore to cultural contribution
often with positive messages that neighborhoods and cities can support
By having the community get directly involved in the design and execution
This type of community-minded street art has sprung up all over Mexico without any sort of coordination among organizers
who came to their conclusions and projects via different paths but with quite similar results
Mexico News Daily did an article on one artist, Natasha Moraga
She is covering Puerto Vallarta in trecadís (broken tile) mosaics with a slew of local and expat volunteers eager to help make the city more beautiful
Mary Carmen Olvera of the town of Zacatlán de las Manzanas is not an artist but an organizer and recruiter par excellence
She is behind various projects in this small town in the Sierra Norte of Puebla
The murals began as part of the town’s first corn festival in 2014
She recruited United States tile artist Isaiah Zagar to come to Zacatlán
they decided to put an image of Quetzalcóatl in broken tile
The artist designed the project and taught locals how to place the pieces
She moved on to the wall surrounding the town’s cemetery
the town created a mural with 12 panels with 12 apples
each having a symbol related to Zacatlán’s history
The back of the cemetery got a mural depicting Nahua cosmology
while the front was covered in biblical scenes
this little apple town does have its shady neighborhoods
Olvera subsequently turned her attention to the Callejon del Hueso (Bone Alley)
isolated place with a reputation for drugs
she designed a series of murals based on old photographs for the walls of the houses that line the alley
The project is called Zacatlán de mis Recuerdos (Zacatlán of my Memories)
A similar project has been started in Zaccatlán’s Lindavista neighborhood
almost all the work being done in Zacatlán is with broken tile
but the small town has added its own twist
They found that by using end nippers (a kind of cutting plier)
they can break tiles into smaller and more accurate shapes
This has allowed for very detailed and realistic images
Elsewhere, in Tepoztlán, Morelos, Judy Wray is a retired U.S
artist who calls her adopted home “paradise.” Her involvement in murals in Tepoztlán
came about in part because of a small but growing problem with graffiti and vandalism around her home in the Santisima Trinidad neighborhood
Wray has a decades-long history of community art projects of all kinds in both the United States and Mexico
Her community murals have been designed by professional artists from as far away as Chile
The murals are then sketched onto walls and painted with acrylic paints and brushes by volunteers or by marginalized people whom Wray pays out of her own pocket
To promote the work and the people involved
she has had the murals reproduced onto huge microperforated plastic canvas typically used for large-scale advertisements so that they can be seen at events
Wray’s murals are painted along cobblestone streets
which forces drivers to move slowly by and appreciate the work
In San Quintín, near Ensenada, Baja California, Julia Celeste and Rogelio Santos are both artists and longtime residents who migrated to the area when they were children
San Quintín is a highly diverse area with migrants from all over Mexico
It makes for a rich tapestry of cultures and traditions
but it also provokes conflict since many ethnic groups tend to segregate themselves
The hard life of migrants also makes them susceptible to the drug trade
Celeste and Santos have separately started community mural projects with the same end
to create and promote a sense of community among the different populations
The murals have themes related to migration
the environment of San Quintín and the native cultures of the migrants
Both artists’ projects are done with acrylics and brushes
which they say allows for many more people to get involved
Filling in colors with paintbrushes is relatively easy
and the coloring book aspect of it is particularly appealing to children
All of these projects’ organizers proudly point out the positive benefits the murals have had in their communities
none of the murals have had problems with graffiti or other vandalism
even years after the mural has been completed
which is a quite different result than that of many street art murals done by professionals and even major government-sponsored works
as they almost always affirm the community’s identity and values
But it is the process of creating the murals that generates the most benefit
People who never thought themselves capable of creativity or of having a positive impact on their community are invited to do just that
All the organizers have stories of participants who psychologically and even spiritually benefitted from participation and became hooked
Participants proudly show friends and family the parts of the mural they worked on
Olvera stated that a bricklayer she has known for years found many of his physical and psychological pains eased when he began to help with the initiatives
Completed projects and their stories have had visible effects in their immediate surroundings
Adjoining parks and streets are better taken care of
Callejon de Hueso now sees tourism and new businesses
and both Celeste and Santos report that many mural participants have created friendships with people outside their insular circles
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 17 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture. She publishes a blog called Creative Hands of Mexico and her first book, Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta, was published last year
Her culture blog appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
Sassella and Joseph's Culinary Pub in the running for food's top prize
Perhaps it will come as no surprise to Santa Fe's food faithful, but a number of local chefs have once again made it to the semifinalists round of the James Beard Awards
This year's cohort of semifinalists include Escondido's Fernando Ruiz, Sassella's Christian Pontiggia and Joseph's Culinary Pub's Joseph Wrede
all of whom landed in the Best Chef: Southwest category
That particular category has proven quite friendly to Santa Fe chefs over the years
with The Compound's Mark Kiffin being nominated numerous times (not to mention winning the dang thing in 2005); Sazón's Fernando Olea winning the prize in 2022; and Zacatlán's Eduardo Rodriguez and Dolina's Annamaria Brezna picking up nods in 2024
Last year also found Alkeme at Open Kitchen from chefs Hue-Chan Karels and Erica Tai hitting the semifinalist list for Best New Restaurant
this is just the semifinalist round and there's a lot of fight left before the finalists are announced this April and the ultimate ceremony pops off in Chicago this June
it's another feather in Santa Fe's culinary cap and proof positive that we can restaurant with the best of 'em
"I didn't know anything about it until people started calling me
messaging me," Ruiz tells SFR of his place on the list
"For my name to be with the names of these other guys...it's a good feeling
let alone on this list with these Southwestern chefs
I'm pretty sure I'm the only chef on this list who has been to prison for trafficking guns and drugs—the only ex-convict who is...working with ex-cons
"There’s not really a wrong way to get down with Ruiz’s tacos."
Sassella chef Christian Pontiggia tells SFR that the recognition comes at a strange time—when Sassella has been closed for some weeks after a burst water pipe caused damage to the Johnson Street the restaurant
The Cooking With Kids nonprofit aims to educate kids about healthier choices
as well as how to go about preparing them while connecting them with knowledgable food pros
though he's currently wending his way through the insurance process and hopes to have an announcement soon
"I have every intention of staying in Santa Fe," he adds
the recognition marks the second time for Wrede
some 21 years ago with his since-closed Taos eatery Jospeh's Table
"Any time you get any kind of confirmation of your hard work
"I felt disappointed last year when my team wasn't recognized
so it's cool—and there are a lot of chefs who deserve this award
Wrede is quick to point out how his staff made the nod possible
it's perfectly clear to me after 30 years—let's see...Joseph's table started in'95
35 years—I know what it means to play with really good players," he says
feels better when when you 're playing with good players
soon to be beatified at the Basilica of Guadalupemoisesliraserafin.com/galeria
The beneficiaries of the miracle were couple who were expecting a child
Doctors gave no chance for the child to survive
the couple prayed a novena and the child was born healthy
To get to know Venerable Moisés Lira better
Aleteia consulted Luis Enrique Lara Córdova
Moisés Lira Serafín was born on September 16
and then entered the Palafoxiano Seminary in Puebla
When he met the Venerable Felix de Jesus Rougier, he became enthusiastic about the spirituality that the Lord was developing in him and Blessed Concepcion Cabrera de Armida
Felix considered him “the firstborn” of the new religious congregation
since he was the first member of the community to take vows
His humility led him to occupy the last place in everything
living with authenticity the spirit of the Works of the Cross
just as the Lord inspired him to Blessed Conchita
whom he always loved with the affection of a son for his mother
He was extremely kind and also embodied spiritual childhood, being part of the army of “little souls” inspired by the path marked by St. Thérèse of Lisieux
“It is necessary to be very small to be a great saint.”
He served as local superior of the congregation in various places and as general treasurer. In 1922 he received ordination to the priesthood in Morelia, and from 1926 to 1928, he studied dogmatic theology at the Gregorian University in Rome
In 1931 his superiors assigned him to the Expiatory Church of San Felipe de Jesus
Fr. Moisés' collaboration with St. Rafael Guízar y Valencia in some popular missions marked his missionary spirit
He stood out as spiritual director and confessor; he was an apostle of the charity of Christ to the point of forgetting about himself
He had special care and attention for children
many of whom eventually entered the seminary or the apostolic school of the Missionaries of the Holy Spirit
In 1934 he founded the Congregation of the Missionaries of Charity of Mary Immaculate
his superiors sent him to the Community that the Missionaries founded in Celaya
to be the rector of the church of La Merced. After the death of the superior general
he became the new superior general of the congregation
and Pope Francis declared him venerable in 2013
His tomb can be visited in the left aisle of the National Expiatory Church of San Felipe de Jesus
Click on the Photo Gallery below to see images of the soon-to-be blessed:
The season that stretches from Christmas to New Year’s is a popular time of year for locals to escape city life and unwind with a change of scenery
There are staple destinations where you are sure to bump into one of your neighbors: Tulum
Oaxaca City and San Miguel de Allende are historically fashionable holiday havens
If you’d like to go somewhere a bit more tranquil that still boasts cultural flair
Not only will they serve to satisfy that travel itch
the chances of bumping into your personal trainer while digging into your fourth tamale are slim to none
This is also the spot to celebrate holidays and traditions in a most authentic manner
the entire state of Puebla is a culinary goldmine
There are seven Pueblos Mágicos in this region
The traditional festivals of Oaxaca city make it a bustling destination for tourists during the holidays
which is why we suggest bypassing the quaint and colorful city altogether and beelining it for the beach
Despite its rising popularity among the international crowd
the coast of Oaxaca is still a more restful alternative to hotspots like Cancún
maybe a nighttime boat ride through a bioluminescent bay will do
And wildlife aficionados will be thrilled to know that turtle-nesting season is in full swing through January
fresh fish for lunch or simply lounging with a good book
While you may have to deal with throngs of would-be beachgoers and partiers in and around the Cancún airport
hang tight and keep your eyes on the prize: from the airport
you’ll need to make a two-hour escape north to the town of Chiquila
where you’ll hop on a ferry and hop off in paradise
Holbox is whimsical and charming and especially quiet over Christmas
lackadaisical culture lends itself sweetly to long
If lounging on a hammock in crystal-clear waters isn’t your jam
Sign up for a day or night (or both!) of snorkeling or a kayaking experience in the bioluminescent bay
explore the endemic wildlife on a Three Islands boat tour or try your hand at kitesurfing with some private lessons
As the rest of Mexico flocks to the coastline
why not head slightly inland where you can immerse in Baja’s laid-back vibes and sip wine without the usual gaggle of snowbirds
where the weather is temperate yet the sun is forever shining
earthy and lawless in its approach to wine tourism
with rolling hills of vineyards against a backdrop of beautiful blue sky
Outside of remarkable Mexican wines and fantastic food
Consider this excursion a period of downtime
where you can fully enjoy the people you’re with and the libations you’re savoring
Utterly overlooked by the international crowd
This pastel-hued seaside town was once a pirate’s treasure trove and
The charming downtown requires just two days of sightseeing
so you can devote substantial time to exploring outside the city
you can visit mind-blowing Maya archaeological sites and biospheres like Edzná
Calakmul and Balakmu; the easygoing fisherman’s village of Isla Arena; the pink flamingos in Celestún; and the cenote in Miguel Colorado
leave the crowds behind and give yourself the gift of a vacation in Mexico’s many off-the-beaten-path treasures
Bethany Platanella is a travel writer and contributor to Mexico News Daily. To find out more about Bethany, visit her website
White sand beaches and colonial churches are beautiful
but there comes a time when you need to smell pine trees and the lingering smokiness of a campfire in your hair
I have spent years scouring the internet and pestering friends about places to camp in Mexico
but as I get older I find sleeping on the ground is no longer a joy and snuggling up in a cozy cabin is much more my style
Here are three delightful retreats in central Mexico that I have found and loved
each just a few hours outside of Mexico City
In the northern Sierra mountains of Puebla
Zacatlan de las Manzanas is a tiny town with the country’s longest functioning Franciscan church and a flower clock famous throughout the country
This is the home of Latin America’s first clock factory and also a hub of apple cider making
whose season culminates in the crowning of the apple queen at a yearly apple festival
There are a handful of places to take in the majesty of the surrounding mountains and the evening fog that rolls in over them, but my favorite is the Tlatempa Campamento
The cabins are built right into the side of the mountain but without much clearing of trees
Expect construction using recycled materials (like glass bottles and brightly-painted tires) and an emphasis on preserving nature (dry toilets
There is a restaurant at the property’s highest point that makes down-home dishes
Cabins and a camping platform are available — definitely ask for the best views of the valley when you reserve
This is not a place for anyone with mobility issues as the way to and from the cabins is a series of stair trails that remind one of the Swiss Family Robinson
There is lots of local hiking to be had as well as the Piedras Encimadas Valley just 30 kilometers from town
The physical beauty of the Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl volcanoes is even more romantic than their love story
you can get breathtaking views of both in the Paso de Cortés
where a visitors’ center for the Izta-Popo Zoquiapan National Park sits surrounded by nothing but sweeping prairie and these two giants on either side
A few kilometers deeper into the parque and you will find the Buenavista Villa Turistica
I suggest visiting during the week if you can when the tourist crowd thins and you will have the place basically to yourself
a few shelves to store your things and bathrooms
Smaller cabins accommodation two to six people and there is a massive family inn for big groups
The complex itself is pleasant to wander around
and several people have vacation homes built in a rustic style similar to the rest of the complex
But exploring Itza and Popo (as they are lovingly called) is the best attraction in the area
There are several walking trails from the visitors’ center and great photo opps
The pass is over 11,000 feet above sea level so even in warmer months expect to have to bundle up
Also make sure you check the activity status of our friend Popo — when he’s spitting ash the park is off limits
Probably my favorite on this list is Rancho Santa Elena
a former hacienda once owned by members of the Hernan Cortés family
Part of the charm of this small handful of cabins is that there are three small kitchens for guests to use
The best set-up is in the gallinero-style cabin with its own outdoor kitchen attached to the back
each with a king-size bed and a loft with either two twins or a full mattress
The other cabins in the main hacienda building have full beds and an area with bunkbeds but feel like a tighter fit
There are also 10 camping spots scattered through the acreage and a massive cabin that sleeps 15 for big groups
The hacienda has acres of hiking trails and a small reservoir for swimming (although at its fullest the water is freezing cold) and kayaking
The hacienda provides trail maps but the trails aren’t well marked at the moment
Hopefully that will be something they improve in the future
several mountain biking trails and courses are set up throughout owing to the fact that the owner’s daughter is Daniela Campuzano
who represented Mexico at the Rio Olympics in mountain biking
The closest town from the ranch is about a 20-minute drive
There is a small shop with some basics (they even have wifi) but it’s best to bring all the food you need as what you can find is limited
the silence and the pleasant but invisible staff make this place an absolute delight
if you want to hunker down and get cozy cabin-style in Mexico
here are three great options for fireplaces
As an added bonus each of the places I mentioned is pet-friendly (some for a fee)
Lydia Carey is a freelance writer based in Mexico City