Tucked away on the Morelos-Puebla border is a community that demonstrates that not all of Mexico’s magical towns are Pueblos Mágicos
“Zacualpan is a little agricultural village with great tradition and culture
Very pretty too,” says 18-year old Daniela García Caltempa
with only about 10,000 residents whose lives revolve around the town’s 16th-century church and monastery and its agriculture
even though the municipality is only 81 km from Mexico City
Local historian Israel Sandoval Martínez takes great pride in that
“The municipality has managed to preserve much of its unique character despite being so close to Mexico City,” he says
Zacualpan’s story begins over 3,000 years ago with Olmecs in the region, later Toltecs and Chichimecas. As part of lands under the dominion of the Triple Alliance (the Mexica Empire), it was an important agricultural area. After the fall of Tenochtitlan, the Spanish quickly built a monastery-fortress here, one of a series that are now World Heritage Sites
The town’s name comes from Nahuatl and means “atop something covered,” which is believed to refer to a pyramid that has not yet been discovered
the communities outside are even smaller and more isolated
They include the communities that were originally worker housing on old haciendas
Zacualpan’s agricultural heritage is strongly shaped by its unique environment
Located on the lower slopes of Popocatépetl
it is in a transition zone from pine and oak to tropical forest
which allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of fruits and vegetables
said to have been invented by the monastery’s monks
Locals might tell you they cannot legally call it rum (not true)
but that is what it is — and a good one too
Aguardiente de caña is most commonly enjoyed flavored with local fruits and herbs as a digestif
Zacualpan’s annual festival calendar is important
particularly the festival of its patron saint
fireworks and Chinelos dancers but also features the mojiganga
Like the more commonly-known puppets of the same name
the purpose of this festival is to lighten the mood after the serious religious processions and masses are concluded
Zacualpan’s mojiganga is a carnival-like celebration
where comparsas (like Mardi Gras krewes) spend the year making new
elaborate costumes and floats to parade in town only once
but the distinctive feature is the use of a hard papier mache for masks and sometimes other elements
Although there are precedents in the 19th century
with young men dressing outlandishly in old clothes and using jugs for masks
The festival draws tens of thousands spectators regionally
In addition to being important economically
Sandoval Martinez says that it remains important to locals because it helps to preserve community ties
the best time to visit Zacualpan is Sunday morning: market day
even the municipal market is empty the rest of the week
Everyone does their shopping on this one day
with open air stalls filling the center starting at 6 a.m
but arrive early because just about everything sells out by 2 p.m
There is one very special segment of this tianguis: the “barter market.” A rare vestige of how tianguis used to operate in the Mesoamerican period
the barter market survives because many families still rely on growing much of their own food and are so isolated that they have little monetary income
many exchange excess produce — mostly tomatoes
onions — and small handcrafts with their neighbors
This tradition is so important to the town’s identity that each year in October
they select a young woman to be the Barter Queen
Her duties are to participate in the year’s festivities
teach visitors about how bartering works in the town
and represent Zacualpan to the rest of Morelos and beyond
This year’s Queen is Daniela García Caltempa
who sheepishly admits that while she competed for the title “somewhat out of vanity,” she believes strongly in maintaining Zacualpan’s unique identity
Zacualpan is proud to have maintained its identity to the present day
Sandoval Martínez says the town has changed greatly during his lifetime
with the (late) introduction of electricity
accompanied by deforestation and now problems with the formerly abundant water supply
people have subdivided land and built new houses
marginalizing old agricultural practices.The loss of family gardens and farms
represents a loss of self-sufficiency and a “lack of consciousness.”
Zacualpan does not seem to be particularly opposed to Pueblo Mágico status
It is included in the state of Morelos’ Pueblos con Encanto (Charming Towns) program
created when the federal Pueblos Mágicos ran into political difficulties
please take care that too many gringos/foreigners don’t move in and change everything
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
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Arts & Humanities
"Catrines #1: La Muerte y su Galán" by JP Spicer-Escalante
As October draws to a close and November begins
exhibits and activities will mark Día de los Muertos at Utah State University
According to Crescencio López González
Department Head of World Languages and Culture at USU
is a “celebration based on the belief that the departed souls continue to exist and return every year to visit family
This cultural tradition has been celebrated in Latin America for more than 2,500 years and is open to all cultures
are carefully set up and decorated so that between the first two days of November
souls of deceased family members are welcomed in the home
sentimental objects and symbols of health and prosperity
This celebration of life and death connects family members and allows many to grow closer with their loved ones
The Nora Eccles Harrison Museum of Art is once again setting up a large ofrenda in the museum lobby
created by Professor Maria Luisa Spicer Escalante
who grew up celebrating the Día de los Muertos and making an ofrenda in her home
candles and marigold flowers to represent different kinds of ofrendas
Visitors are welcome to write names of lost loved ones on the ofrenda wall
Also on view in NEHMA’s lobby is an exhibition of photographs by Professor JP Spicer-Escalante titled “Mixquic
These photos are part of the larger “In Search ofMéxico” project
a multi-year project that began in the village of Zacualpan de Amilpas
“This endeavor is many things at the same time,” JP Spicer-Escalante said
it is my own quest as a lifelong Latin Americanist to fully comprehend Mexico’s age-old customs and rituals
it is a photographic expression that combines both documentary and Fine Art genres to capture theDía de los Muertosas an evolving tradition.”
it is also a visual “love letter” to the Mexican people
who have welcomed him into their lives ever since his first extended stay in the country in 1985
the most compelling of the three,” he said
check out the Artepaño: Chicano Prisoner Kerchief Art
All museum labels are provided in English and Spanish
“We love our community and consider how we can make our museum welcoming to all through our exhibitions
and all of the programs we offer,” said NEHMA Executive Director Katie Lee-Koven
“I hope these annual Day of the Dead displays and events
along with our exhibitions and programs throughout the year
remind our Hispanic community that NEHMA is your museum and we want you take advantage of what we have to offer.”
Antonio Cruz Santos from the Latinx Cultural Center will deliver a Public Lecture about Día de los Muertos at NEHMA from noon to 1 p.m
The talk and lunch are free and open to all
“We are pleased to collaborate on hosting festivities celebrating el Día de los Muertos,” Cultural Center Director Shelly Ortiz said
“This is an opportunity for campus and community members to engage in a rich cultural celebration
while creating a space for understanding and appreciation of diverse traditions
We believe such shared experiences enrich our community and foster connections across different backgrounds.”
The culminating event is the dramatic and beautiful procession on the Day of the Dead
1,with Mariachi Guzman and Monos de Calenda
Crescencio López González initiated a Day of the Dead celebration at USU years ago with the Latinx Cultural Society on campus
The procession will begin at the new Mehdi Heravi Global Teaching and Learning Center on the south side of the USU Quad and will cross campus
stopping at the Nora Eccles Harrison Museum of Art at 11:45 for hot chocolate from the Aggie Chocolate Factory and pan de muerto (bread)
“Everyone who attends is responsible for helping to create a safe
and respectful experience for themselves and everyone else,” González said
“Please inform yourself about Day of the Dead traditional attire.”
The procession's sponsors and organizers areLatinx Creative Society
the College of Humanities and Social Sciences
and the Center for Intersectional Gender Studies and Research
The Nora Eccles Harrison Museum of Art at Utah State University fosters engagement with modern and contemporary art to facilitate learning and promote dialogue about ideas important to the people of Utah and the mission of Utah State University
Parking is available in the free museum parking stalls and at the Gateway Terrace
For more information, visit artmuseum.usu.edu or contact Katie Lee-Koven
The Día de los Muertos procession crosses the Quad at USU's Logan campus
Comments and questions regarding this article may be directed to the contact person listed on this page
20 surgeries and countless hours of struggle and perseverance
Sarah Frei graduated with a bachelor's in Elementary Education
The new $7.6 million cultural facility will provide opportunity for engagement with NEHMA's collection of modern and contemporary American art
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The World Heritage Centre is at the forefront of the international community’s efforts to protect and preserve
World Heritage partnerships for conservation
Ensuring that World Heritage sites sustain their outstanding universal value is an increasingly challenging mission in today’s complex world
where sites are vulnerable to the effects of uncontrolled urban development
Our Partners Donate
Take advantage of the search to browse through the World Heritage Centre information
Forty-six organizations are taking part in this year’s World Heritage Volunteers Initiative to carry out 52 youth action projects from June to December 2015 in 34 countries
site management and public authorities aiming to sensitize young people to the value of World Heritage sites and organizing action projects with young national and international volunteers
This year’s campaign entitled WHV 2015: Patrimonito takes a stand in a changing global environment offers challenging opportunities to young people seeking meaningful involvement in World Heritage preservation and promotion
The youth action camps are held in the field and in direct relation to a World Heritage site or a property in the country’s Tentative List
Generally two weeks in duration (minimum 10 days)
the projects include information sessions on issues related to World Heritage
working with local communities and site and local authorities
workshops and practical hands-on activities providing some basic preventive
Each action camp accommodates some ten to thirty national and/or international volunteer participants
and often preparatory and follow-up activities with the local communities and the volunteers are also implemented by the organizers to ensure the sustainability of the actions
WHV youth action camps are often organized in a multi-stakeholders cooperation
universities and public and private institutions working together with site management
WHV 2015 also enjoins participating organizations and youth volunteers in the celebration of the 70th Anniversary of UNESCO and in contributing to the Decade on Biodiversity (2011-2020)
The World Heritage Volunteers Initiative is led by the World Heritage Centre (WHC) in collaboration with the Coordinating Committee for International Voluntary Service (CCIVS)
Open Houses (European Heritage Volunteers as a branch of Open Houses) in charge of Europe Coordination
and Better World in charge of Asia Coordination
Download the complete list of youth action camp projectsDownload the all project profiles or short descriptions
“Pride 2020 is about disrupting boundaries and carving intersectional paths in stone
It’s about claiming your identity and finding solace in the warm embrace of community
pride is about empowering yourself to live honestly and unapologetically.”
“This is a photo of my friend Feyi John Majek from last summer
regardless of how you choose to express yourself or whom you choose to love
and the often violent transphobia that members of the LGBTQ+
experience every day remind us that we have to keep fighting.”
“My work is an ongoing visual manifestation of dreams
Pride for me exists in the freedom to create
populate and inhabit worlds specifically as I envision them
as well as consideration of the beauty and complexities of a collective whole.”
“My gender has been ‘lost in the mail’ from the inception of this anti-Black world—anticipated
It was not sent because it cannot be given
my work serves as a series of revisions and drafts made in isolation and in community
we must understand that the violences that happened to Iyanna Dior
and many others who have gone unreported (nationally)
parallel a history of Black trans individuals being brutalized and targeted by (systemically) cis white-centered policy/laws
When we are discussing the defunding and abolishment of police on a national level
we must remember that people in the streets have always started these larger nuanced conversations around care and community—uplifting what is serving us and denouncing what doesn’t
or the people that make them up to listen to us—we are ready to take our cities
“I love photographing individuals (such as Arca
pictured above) who embrace the variations of self while inspiring others to do the same
and surrendering to the dynamics of your truth with the greatest compassion.”
Pride is nothing short of being complicated
are frequently erased from the historical narrative
I find myself frustrated by Pride’s commodification because the very individuals who contribute the most to our communities are disproportionally experiencing homelessness
I witness more individuals reclaiming their histories and spaces
and queer individual deserves flowers at their feet.”
the meaning of pride has been commercialized
and sold back to us by corporations whose internal affairs seldom align with the causes they claim to support
Pride is a response to the system’s attempts to diminish the worth and the agency of queer people
and even though we have lost many on the way
I hope that this year and the years that follow
we channel the rage that brought us to this place and continue the fight in the liberation of marginalized people.”
it is imperative that we find ways to create and take in all forms of art in order to inspire and uplift ourselves within the chaos
A book that I would recommend to every queer person of color is Disidentifications by José Esteban Muñoz
which discusses the way those outside the sexual and racial mainstream exist autonomously—not by aligning themselves with or against exclusionary ideas
but rather by transforming and repurposing these ideas for their own cultural purposes
as a declaration of independence from them
Instead of looking to others to validate our identity
I hope we can collectively solace in our passion and creativity
in bigger concepts that don’t necessarily exist in this realm
pride means disrupting the norm and handing the mic to the queer communities that are often erased or silenced
It means being unapologetic about our existence in this world.”
Our queerness is part of its sophisticated evolution
We all must realize that we played an essential role in our societies
Let’s raise our voices so that the world hears how proud we are of being what we are
and recognize our importance and infinite beauty.”
I’m proud of all the hot pot parties with my beautiful community
I’m proud to share a slice of our daily life without any performative elements
I’m proud to be a Chinese queer immigrant who takes savoring life seriously
When we talk about queer pride and visibility
I hope to live in a world where love and tenderness is the new normal.”
“Pride means for me to feel proud of who I am—of my roots
But also to be free to express it and make it part of my flag.”
“Pride is about survival ~ amplifying our voices and fighting for our rights ~ to be seen and heard at all costs
Exploring the depths of our minds amidst all of this chaos.”
“This photo was taken in 2018 at a music festival in Accra
and it shouldn’t be something we only celebrate in June
I hope one day in West Africa people will celebrate openly and not disguise as a clown or comedian.”
“Pride is really about owning your true self… Individuality is original and celebrating that everyday is important.”
“I chose this photo of my best friend Kari to share with all of you
I picked it because this is her first year being an out queer Black woman
I wanted to celebrate her being out and proud.”
“At a young age I was taught that blood does not make family—love
PRIDE — My grandmother often preached about community
and family like friends.’ My most important life lessons seem to all be spurred by childhood interactions
SEX — Talk of ‘birds and bees’ came in adolescence
and those of others my age starting as early as preschool
if that seemingly apolitical exploration was lost to my childhood self
are Black Queer Folx allowed to play and find ourselves
especially when many of our childhood moments of self-exploration had to remain hidden; are we allowed to rest; where is it we can go to live out the fantasy of seeing ourselves
It has been 25 years since 14 monasteries dating from the 16th century became a World Heritage Site in Morelos and Puebla
an anniversary that is being celebrated this month by the secretaries of Culture in the two states
along with the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH)
But the occasion is marred by the condition of the complexes two years after the massive 2017 earthquake devastated central Mexico
The monasteries were inscribed onto UNESCO’s list on December 17
Eleven are located in the small state of Morelos
Collectively they are known as the 16th-century monasteries on the slopes of the volcano Popocatepetl on what is called the Route of the Convents
The monasteries employed an architectural model adopted by the evangelizing Franciscans
Dominicans and Augustinians which would influence similar construction in colonial Mexico
The religious institutions were essentially built as fortresses as the indigenous populations had not yet been completely subdued
One important aspect of the monasteries is the atriums with their “open chapels,” open archways to allow for the saying of mass to the large number of indigenous who would gather in the open-air atrium
The monasteries functioned nearly non-stop until the 19th and early 20th century
until anti-clerical politics and laws closed cloisters down and expropriated them
By the 21st century many had been converted into museums or other public spaces
the quake heavily damaged or destroyed architectural elements such as bell towers
The falling debris wrecked irreplaceable murals
federal and state authorities announced efforts to study and restore all of the complexes
along with many other historical sites damaged in the region
authorities admitted the effort was proceeding slowly
One reason was that reconstruction requires the use of historically accurate materials and techniques
often the piecing together of fragments that had been all but crushed
The goal for the reconstruction of the buildings is not only to recreate what was
but to be sure that they can withstand future earthquakes
The extent of the damage and the challenges reconstruction pose were presented in a three-part documentary by INAH and the Morelos State Radio and Television Institute for the anniversary
The 14 monasteries are San Mateo Apóstol y Evangelista in Atlatlahucan
Inmaculada Concepción in Zacualpan de Amilpas
San Miguel Arcangel in Huejotzigo and La Asunción in Tochimilco
Sources: La Jornada de Oriente (sp), El Universal (sp), Excélsior (sp)