El Tecolote
San Francisco and Oaxaca are places with a lot in common
and it’s in this American city where Vladimir Cuevas
This painter and sculptor made a boyhood dream of his come true: attending the Guelaguetza
the most important indigenous cultural festival in Latin America
within the framework of this world-renowned celebration
Cuevas inaugurated his sculpture “El Danzante.”
The Oaxacan artist—who has a predilection for the Dance of the Feather
whose most striking element is the feathered headdress—recalled that as a child
“[I] thought that by wearing it I could fly.”
It took him 10 years to develop the idea for the sculpture of “El Danzante,” and it took four intense months to construct it
Cuevas is now the creator of the largest “El Danzante” sculpture in the world
The sensation one feels when seeing “El Danzante” atop the hill
as if it were in charge of remembering the identity of the Zimatecos
It is said that the sculptures are irremediably linked to a place or a person
“El Danzante” is linked to the childhood of Cuevas and Zimatlán
I have no doubt that with time it will become the identifying symbol of the Zimatecos
longings and memories through the modeling
we can think that the sculpture continues to have the power to explain to the town part of its history
“El Danzante” represents the Dance of the Feather
a majestic and historic Oaxacan tradition of Zapotec origin
I agree with those who consider sculptures as books sculpted in stone or metal
it’s also a piece that embellishes the magical hill even more
Anyone visiting the land of the green quarry can enjoy this work that measures more than 42 and half feet high
Cuevas contemplates the greatness of his work and says he fills with emotion and that he is willing to put that same faith into other projects
“I worked hard so that ‘El Danzante’ could be inaugurated during the Guelaguetza 2018 festival
My work and the great festival came together
making this great moment something like I have always dreamed it.”
the magnitude of the emotions that flutter in his mind and heart
for which he has mixed feelings when his work is concluded
I see the color in life and with a lot of peace
The Zimatec painter has had exhibitions in the Philippines
Mission Cultural Center for Latino Arts and at the recently closed Polanco gallery
He is currently planning an exhibition that will open on Nov
where he’ll display the molds used for the “El Danzante” sculpture
and some countries in Latin America and Europe
In his art you’ll find abstract works and figurative pieces
His paintings demonstrate his great handling of sands
with which he develops colors and creates part of the universe known as Oaxaca
As with “El Danzante,” Cuevas highlights his interest in pre-Columbian culture
The Oaxacan artist works in various formats
and has more than a hundred religious pieces
some in churches and others in the hands of private collectors
Cuevas has also illustrated publications such as The Prayer Book
for which he made three altarpieces: “The Last Supper,” “The Resurrection” and “The Virgin of Guadalupe.”
this Oaxacan will continue to inspire with his work
just as he has been inspired by great masters such as Da Vinci
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Celia Florián sums up Oaxacan cuisine with the words mole
But the cuisine and the culture behind it are a complicated tapestry of local and seasonal ingredients that distinguish dishes among the many small valleys of this mountainous state
Florián is the owner and inspiration behind the Las Quince Letras restaurant
which she opened with husband Fidel Méndez in 1992 in the center of Oaxaca city
but its signature dish is the mole negro that she grew up with
“Cooking is for me an encounter with myself,” Florián says
“It has been my refuge; it is my home and it will continue to be my everything.”
That passion for cooking began early in life
Born into a rural farm family in the La Ciénaga community of Zimatlán de Álvarez
her early childhood revolved around the cultivation and preparation of food
Her culinary foundation is the work she did with her mother and grandmother
learning tasks such as prepping vegetables
we eat well as families because of the variety of ingredients there are
very healthy because of the plants and other ingredients that the earth provides
They give the dishes their distinctive flavors.”
The family moved to the city of Oaxaca when she was still in primary school
but her love for the cuisine of her childhood led her to take the plunge and open Las Quince Letras
a lifelong project of bringing the home cooking of Oaxaca’s kitchens to an appreciative audience
Her knowledge comes from her personal experience and her contacts with many
She did take some classes in restaurant operations but tries to keep cooking techniques as close to the original as possible
This includes an aversion to exact measurements and preferring to cook by sight
“You need to cook with your own hands,” she says
traditional wood fires are out because of city regulations
means depending on what is available locally and almost never using prepackaged items
Cooks like her grandmother use few oils and fats
She finds that avoiding the fat does not mean lessening the flavor
Las Quince Letras (The 15 Letters) has been in the same location since it opened 28 years ago
it was locally known as “La Esquina” (The Corner) a local landmark
it had been a tenement with various businesses occupying the space by the street
The then-owner had these tenants use “Las Quince Letras” as the business name
something that was done with the small grocery store that occupied the space before the restaurant
but Florían decided to keep the naming tradition
It does not hurt that the words Cocina oaxaqueña has 15 letters
Although it has never wavered from traditional Oaxacan food
the menu has evolved to include dishes from just about all over the state
This work has made the restaurant a point of reference for educating not only tourists but locals as well
Younger Oaxaqueños come to the restaurant to get a better appreciation of their cuisine
bringing Oaxacan flavors to Mexico City and Washington
The restaurant’s success made Florián one of Mexico’s leading experts on Oaxacan cuisine
Inspired by her attendance at Slow Food’s 2018 event in Italy
she decided to organize traditional Oaxacan cooks
The result is the Asociación de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca (Traditional Cooks Association of Oaxaca)
which sponsored an event called the Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales for three consecutive years before the pandemic hit
Both the organization and event seek to connect cooks as well as educate the general public about the value of Oaxacan food through tastings
It resulted in the publication of a book entitled Las cocinas tradicionales de Oaxaca
featuring both recipes and the cooks that provided them
The 2019 version of the Encuentro demonstrated over 200 dishes
but the 2020 and 2021 versions were canceled due to the pandemic
The hope is that the 2022 version will be a go
Florián’s work with these cooks is personally satisfying
“These women have been my “maestras” (teachers/masters)
not only in relation to cooking but about the greatness of Oaxacan women
Visiting any traditional kitchen is like entering another world
techniques and even rituals related to preparation and eating.”
Florián’s work has been recognized with memberships in national organizations such as the Conservatoria de la Cocina Mexicana
with the restaurant listed as one of the 120 best restaurants in Mexico by Pellegrino/Nespresso and was the 2021 Artisan & Authenticity Award winner of the World’s’ Best Restaurant Selection of the French organization La Liste
including appearances on Netflix’s Street Food Latinoamerica series
She was also a judge of the MasterChef México TV series in 2020
Oaxaca is a seemingly infinite number of tiny valleys and hamlets that would take multiple lifetimes to explore
“Oaxaca’s cuisine is a jewel,” says the chef
and certainly it has a long and bright future
Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019)
Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily
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