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Hidden in thick forest near the hamlet of Gierłoż
is one of Poland’s eeriest historical relics – 18 overgrown hectares of huge
This was Hitler’s main headquarters during WWII
baptised with the German name of Wolfsschanze (Wolf’s Lair)
A famous attempt to assassinate the Führer took place here in July 1944
The location was carefully chosen in this remote part of East Prussia
far away from important towns and transport routes
to be a convenient command centre for the planned German advance eastwards
began in autumn 1940; about 80 structures were finally built
including seven bombproof bunkers for the top leaders
Martin Bormann (Hitler’s adviser and private secretary)
Hermann Göring (Prussian prime minister and German commissioner for aviation) and Hitler himself were among the residents
Their bunkers had walls and ceilings up to 8m thick
The whole complex was surrounded by multiple barriers of barbed wire and gun emplacements
An airfield was built 5km away and there was an emergency airstrip within the camp
Apart from the natural camouflage of trees and plants
the bunker site was further disguised with artificial vegetation-like screens suspended on wires and changed according to the season of the year
The Allies did not discover the site until 1945
Hitler arrived at the Wolf’s Lair on 26 June 1941 (four days after the invasion of the Soviet Union) and stayed there until 20 November 1944
with only short trips to the outside world
His longest journey outside the bunker was a four-month stint at the Ukraine headquarters of the Wehrmacht (the armed services of the German Reich) in 1942
Having survived an assassination attempt within the complex in July 1944
Hitler left the Wolf’s Lair as the Soviet Red Army approached a few months later
The German army prepared the bunkers to be destroyed
should the enemy have attempted to seize them
The complex was eventually blown up on 24 January 1945 and the Germans retreated
but the extensive minefield was still efficiently defending the empty ruins
It took 10 years to clear the 55,000 mines within the complex
the site has succumbed to Mother Nature; bunkers are slowly disappearing behind a thick wall of natural camouflage
It’s best to pick up a site map or booklet sold from stands in the parking area
organise a guide to show you around; English-
German- and Russian-speaking guides charge 60zł for a 1½-hour tour
All structures are identified with numbers and marked with big signs telling you not to enter the ruins
including some guides (bunker 6 appears to be the most popular one to enter)
Of Hitler’s bunker (13) only one wall survived
but Göring’s ‘home’ (16) is in relatively good shape
A memorial plate (placed in 1992) marks the location of Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg’s 1944 assassination attempt on Hitler and a small exhibition room houses a scale model of the original camp layout
You can also continue 200m past the entrance towards Węgorzewo
and take a small road to the right signposted ‘Kwiedzina (5km)’
On either side of this narrow path is a handful of crumbling bunkers that can be explored free of charge
ContactAddressGierłoż
89 741 0031
https://www.wilczyszaniec.olsztyn.lasy.gov.pl/
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