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where the writer’s grandparents were held before being transported to the Chelmno camp
that I was seeking on this trip,’ writes Chana Widawski
A view along the Trail of the Eagle’s Nest
inspired her recent bicycling trip through Poland and Germany
I merely hoped to breathe in the space of my dad’s youth
history came alive and the landscape of his childhood revealed itself
Daunting and haunting as I knew it might be
I wanted to bicycle through Poland and Germany
For many with direct ties to the Holocaust
the atrocities of history make these lands feel unapproachable
But as the daughter of Max (Meyer) Widawski
I also inherited a sense of resilience and hope
I had felt a calling to my roots and to the trees that bore witness to more than we can imagine
I craved mutual connection and healing with nature
descendants of this terrible chapter in time
I felt propelled by an indescribable momentum
enthralled by the cobblestone streets with Yiddish signs
and the delicious bar mleczny (milk bars) serving pierogies
borscht and other foods that tasted like home
used waterproof panniers and a route to Lodz (the Polish city closest to my father’s town)
I also met new local friends eager to help me
They embraced my father’s story and shared their own
I packed up everything I needed and set out in the rain
I stopped at a piekarnia (bakery) to fuel up on jagodzianki
Each bite of the heavenly blueberry buns reminded me of my father and our shared love of similar buns in Toronto’s Jewish bakeries
I first pedalled for four days, beginning with a section of the Trail of the Eagle’s Nest
treated myself to nourishing meals with the same Eastern European flavours that sustained my childhood
and shared stories with locals despite immense language barriers
who stood by and who helped in my thoughts
I listened to the trees and felt both their gifts and their helplessness
but when a local researcher I contacted found his actual address
old marriage documents and his mother’s childhood home
savoring this information (and perfectly brined homemade pickles) in the comfort of a new friend’s apartment
walked the cobblestone streets where my dad played and watched the river flow where he splashed with friends
I stood in the church where my grandparents and all others from the town’s ghetto were held before being transported to Chelmno
I walked those ash-filled grounds and saw the mass graves
and the place where the notorious gas vans delivered their death fumes
I made my way to the lakeside town of Feldafing
regained life in a displaced persons’ camp
picked wild berries and swam in the shimmering lake
animated by thoughts of my father and other survivors finally eating proper meals and living vibrantly here
in what was once a Nazi school (now an army base)
Poddebice and Feldafing were two places where I had wanted to camp
breathing fresh night air and slumbering to the sound of nightingales
I had the good fortune of meeting more new friends
whose families have been here for generations
brought me to places I would have never known
and told me their own stories connected to our collective Holocaust trauma
staying up late sharing laughter and tears
the most important thing I had with me was openness
Connecting physically and emotionally with my father’s story
allowing room for powerful memories of this trip: rich conversations
new friendships that will be with me forever
I left with a strengthened vision for a peaceful future
where we all cherish our interconnectedness and shared humanity
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