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A visit to a pastelaria in Lisbon in the lead-up to Easter brings with it new surprises
and many surrounded by a colorful assortment of almonds
which contains ingredients traditionally forbidden during Lent
has long been associated with Easter and the feasting that occurs on this holiday
“After the winter months and the long fast during Lent
Easter brings intense activity in terms of culinary preparations and the exchange of cakes
namely the folares,” writes Mouette Barboff in her book A Tradição do Pão em Portugal (Bread in Portugal)
Folares were traditionally a gift given by godfathers to their godchildren
and people would bake them at home in the days before Easter
they’re mainly bought from shops as less people bake at home
What makes this bread unique (and why we’re constantly trying it wherever we go) is that it varies by region
where folares are sweet and spicy with cinnamon and aniseed and made in different shapes
Also known as folar de folhas (“folar with layers”) or folar de Olhão
it’s usually built up with thin discs of dough
in between which are layers of butter and sugar
this specialty can now be found year round
bakeries producing folares begin working non-stop to fill all the orders
Our favorites include those made by Kubidoce and João Mendes & Rita
Kubidoce’s folares brought innovations to the baking tradition in the coastal Algarve town: “We chose to do something different from the others
with sourdough [one or two days of slow fermentation] and in the shape of a giant cinnamon roll instead of the discs,” explains Filipe Martins
Kubidoce’s folares are made with carefully selected ingredients
including special butter sourced from France
Alongside the traditional folares made with cinnamon and honey
Filipe developed a new flavor made with nuts and orange zest
Filipe has been baking for over a decade and opened the current Kubidoce in Olhão six years ago together with his wife
garnering attention for his pastries and bread and even winning an award in Italy for his pannetone
He’s determined to avoid industrial fats and yeasts
relying on slow fermentation and the simplicity of brown sugar and butter
Springtime brings a significant change of pace as they’re kept busy baking thousands of folares
we sell 70 to 80 percent more compared with the rest of the year,” Filipe tells us as he rolls out a sheet of dough
he was already in the bakery,” Filipe jokes
baking some 1,600 folares every day for Easter orders
João Mendes & Rita has been making the award-winning sweet bread for 45 years using João’s grandmother Adelina’s recipe
she used to bake the folares herself in a wood-fired oven
Adelina then passed on the secret recipe to her daughter Eugénia
they modernized the space and improved the folar recipe (the original version had less sugar
Their version of folar de Olhão became a hit outside the Algarve
she was swiftly pouring portions of butter and sugar in between layers of dough as the intoxicating smell of cinnamon wafted from the hot ovens
She explained that she has been making this family recipe for 30 years
as was evidenced by the fact that the other staff had trouble keeping up with her fast pace
We were mesmerized watching the bakers – all women – in action
performing a well-rehearsed choreography of putting a small ball of dough through a machine (also used for pizzas) that spits them out as discs
Then they carefully assemble a tower of discs inside a greased tin
adding a pat of butter and a dash of sugar with cinnamon in between each layer
with some of the sweet liquid absorbed by the bread and some bubbling up to create a crunchy caramelized coating on the outside
it’s unlike any folares in other regions of the country: this one is not afraid of sugar
João Mendes & Rita also makes variations with apple
it’s a surprise that these folares are not as widespread as other cakes
as one of the bakers said as she skillfully filled another tin with layers
right?” After having tasted the warm folares straight out of the oven
loading map - please wait...Map could not be loaded - please enable Javascript!→ more information
It’s dancing across the rooftops of simple cubist buildings and the contrasting wedding cake-style balconies and terraces of the merchants’ houses
The skyline of the eastern Algarve town of Olhao is waking
Storks atop chimneys — where they have built strawy
shambolic nests — are shaking their wings and the water of the Ria Formosa natural park is beginning to shimmer in the light."},"children":[]}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"I am marvelling at this dawn autumn vista from the rooftop of Casa Amor
a new ten-room boutique hotel in the middle of Olhao’s old quarter
The smell of freshly baked cakes is wafting up the stairwell and it draws me down to the dining room
charcuterie and cheeses"},"children":[]},{"name":"paywall","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" from the nearby market
a former financier who retrained as a pâtissier and brought his skills from Paris to this underrated town east of Faro
cakes and savoury tarts are the star not only of the breakfast buffet but the hotel’s sweet little coffee shop
which is open to the public until late afternoon."},"children":[]}]}]},{"name":"paywall","children":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"I sit down with Jack Chaniol
as he explains the couple’s love for Olhao
a shabby-chic old fishing town that’s pronounced all-yow
like miaow but with a nasal twang."}}]},{"name":"image","attributes":{"id":"4c787d35-0b62-4bb9-8a30-75f895977d63","display":"primary","caption":"Olhao eschews the boisterous bar life that dominates many of the Algarve resorts","title":"Man walking down a cobblestone street in Olhão
Portugal.","credits":"Alamy","url":"https://www.thetimes.com/imageserver/image/%2F696ea25f-72ef-4505-a136-b9def625754d.jpg?crop=4000%2C6000%2C0%2C0","ratio":"4000:6000","relativeHorizontalOffset":0,"relativeVerticalOffset":0,"relativeWidth":1,"relativeHeight":1},"children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"“Olhao is a diamond that hasn’t been polished yet and that’s why we love it,” he says
so you need to take a ferry to the barrier islands in the Ria Formosa — Armona
It’s a place where you rediscover the notion of time and a slower life
the most important thing is the light.”"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"One of the biggest draws is that Olhao is a 15-minute drive from Faro airport
Another is that it has a railway station connecting it to the bijou town of Tavira and the city of Vila Real de Santo Antonio
and a short ferry hop from the town of Ayamonte in Spain
It is a perfect place for a long weekend away from the UK in search of blue skies in winter
the walls covered in bougainvillea and the many-coloured tiles on buildings on every corner
As a cook I was entranced by the two red-bricked halls that house a fish market and a vegetable and meat market
and by the even more beguiling Saturday market
when stalls spill out along the waterfront offering produce from smallholdings and farms in the countryside nearby
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"It became the place I returned to time and time again
ending up locked down on the idyllic island of Armona
I bought a house by the beach but adore the town
Yet perhaps more than all of the physical things about the town
it was the locals I loved the most: the Olhanense are a warm-hearted
funny people who have a rebellious spirit and a pride in the history of their previously down-at-heel town
They reminded me of Glaswegians (I am one) but in sunshine."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"• "}},{"name":"link","children":[{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Where is hot in June
17 of the best sunny destinations for 2025"}}]}],"attributes":{"href":"https://www.thetimes.com/travel/advice/where-is-hot-in-june-2wj2x86w6"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Once grungy and smelly — the fish canning industry was a past mainstay — Olhao is now in a renaissance
it still resolutely eschews the big high-rise buildings and boisterous bar life that dominates many of the Algarve resorts north of Faro
It has kept its character."}}]},{"name":"inlineAd1","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Chaniol and Dellazoppa also lost their hearts to Olhao and found an almost derelict old guesthouse that had what they call “a wow effect”
Now the meticulously renovated Casa Amor is filled with Portuguese crafts and vintage pieces the couple discovered on road trips across the country
their exquisite boutique hotel opened last spring."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Olhao’s waterfront — with its transfixing sunsets — has recently been redone with reclining benches
A 2.5-mile pathway for walking and cycling along the edge of the Ria Formosa was inaugurated last year and a new park is being created out on the salt flats on the western edge of town
There’s a swish new marina complex full of yachts and chichi restaurants and bars
which hosts live concerts as well as classes in Portuguese
a once-dilapidated townhouse refurbished into a luxurious space by a British couple
meditation and other retreats as well as a week-long residential on how to write a bestseller by the London agent Jacq Burns (seven nights’ full board from £2,500pp; casafuzetta.com)
The luxury furniture designer Julian Chichester also recently refurbished one of the old merchants’ houses downtown
One of the Algarve’s most celebrated chefs
Noélia Jeronimo (nicknamed the queen of the Ria Formosa)
while other new places such as O Cantinho da Cristina continue to up the culinary game (realmarina.realhotelsgroup.com)."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"In the vanguard of the revitalisation of the town is the British journalist Kevin Gould
who came to write a story and ended up changing the story of his life
Gould bought a house here and soon decided to quit London to open a glorious and quirky restaurant
Cha Cha Cha (mains from £15.50; chachacha.pt)
Now he shops for produce from the market every day and devises his menu based on the fresh things he finds
“Olhao is changing and people are discovering how beautiful it is,” he says
“But what’s important to me is being part of and giving back to the community
The people who work here are stakeholders in the restaurant
clothes and supports people in need in the town
Gould’s kindness is returned with smiles and hugs as he goes about the place
The restaurant’s neighbouring barber allows him to place a few tables outside the front door when it closes at night."}}]},{"name":"inlineAd2","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"I love this town in winter
when the days can be warm and bright but the nights cold
In July and August pavement cafés and restaurant esplanades are full of a mix of holidaying Portuguese
There’s a Festival do Marisco across three days in August every year
with trestle tables laid out along the waterfront for the eating of prawns
At sunset on the waterfront an orange glow bounces off the cobblestones and across the estuary
egrets or flamingos flying off into the distance
or a fishing boat pootling back with sea bass
Or they may well be sitting plotting their return
Olhao’s magnetism does that."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"This article contains affiliate links
which can earn us revenue."}}]}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Audrey Gillan was a guest of Casa Amor
which has B&B doubles from £133 ("}}]},{"name":"link","children":[{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"casaamor-olhao.com"}}]}],"attributes":{"href":"http://casaamor-olhao.com/"}},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":")
is backed by striated cliffs beaten to a fine
Aethos Ericeira rises above it all on a bluff pivoted to maximise daylight
The two-storey block has deep-set rooms and covered terraces
plus a double-height lounge and bar that flows easily into an all-day restaurant serving fish from a nearby peninsula
gazing out at the sea from rooms panelled in wood the colour of a suntan
All hotels should be designed this simply and effectively
with sunset walks down to Calada beach and hikes in the hills behind."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Room-only doubles from £160 (aethos.com)
Algarve"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The lake in question has its own boating dock
overlooked by two gargantuan turquoise pools
as Falesia beach — possibly the Algarve’s finest — dominates the view beyond
Interiors incorporate a mile of marble between the spa
the on-site fine-dining restaurant does spectacular seafood and a colourful Mediterranean breakfast is served in a sunny window overlooking the lake
Avoid the holidaymakers in town and head inland for the Saturday markets in Loule
an old fortified town uphill."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" B&B doubles from £151 (domesresorts.com)
It occupies a suite of refurbished wine warehouses on the waterfront in Gaia
just before the river opens up to the Atlantic
Every room is a suite with its own kitchen and travertine breakfast bar and cool
curvaceous furnishings for enjoying the views
Yet in between are two restaurants and two bars — one on the roof that serves small plates with your Christ the Redeemer cachaca cocktail (£10)
With most of the city’s port wine houses within a short walk
you’ll never go thirsty."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" B&B doubles from £144 (therebello.com)
the Red Chalet looks like it was plonked down by a French tycoon with dreams of the Côte d’Azur
But nope: it was built right here nearly a century ago as a rather conspicuous belle époque holiday home and converted a few years ago by the luxury villa purveyor Vila Vita
With an almost unimaginable beachfront location and its own sizeable pool
along with a hamper of goodies and daily housekeeping
The rest of the town is sleepy but here on the waterfront
cafés and taverns are buzzing round the clock."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" One night’s B&B for eight from £1,843; three-night minimum (vilavitacollection.com)
Fly to Faro"}}]},{"name":"inlineAd4","children":[]},{"name":"heading3","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"5
Alentejo"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Occupying the grey area between hotel and self-catering
these twin fishermen’s huts come with daily housekeeping and full delivered breakfast — the owners call them “serviced accommodation”
They were renovated from their original weathered wood by the popular Lisbon architect Manuel Aires Mateus
who designated one for sleeping and the other for living and placed them so close to the Sado River you could practically leap in from the bedroom threshold
Cycling to the beach at Comporta takes about 15 minutes on free bikes
with a lively town just behind for cocktails or hammock-shopping
but you’ll have to contend with other people."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" B&B doubles from £208; two-night minimum (silentliving.pt)
Fly to Lisbon"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"link","children":[{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Become a subscriber"}}]}],"attributes":{"href":"https://www.thetimes.com/subscribe/"}},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" and
along with unlimited digital access to The Times and The Sunday Times
you can enjoy a collection of travel offers and competitions curated by our trusted travel partners
ancient windy streets and bougainvillea-covered walls are not
The secret is out …","slug":"the-under-the-radar-algarve-fishing-town-thats-a-slice-of-real-portugal","categoryPath":"/travel/destinations/europe-travel/portugal/the-under-the-radar-algarve-fishing-town-thats-a-slice-of-real-portugal-2shvq3w0v","__typename":"Article"},"Image:174dc844-c1bb-4270-b310-f69856eb1276":{"caption":"Olhao is going through something of a renaissance","credits":"Getty images","title":"Narrow street in Olhão
These are its 25 top spots for a beach holiday","id":"62b05bfc-9108-40c6-8e89-b4e4993859b5","label":null,"publicationName":"TIMES","publishedTime":"2025-02-06T00:01:00.000Z","updatedTime":"2025-02-07T15:25:41.000Z","section":null,"shortIdentifier":"vhr25tf98","shortHeadline":"I grew up in Spain
These are its 25 top spots for a beach holiday","seoDescription":"Whatever you want from your trip
the Spanish coastline has the perfect playa
From wild yellow stretches of sand to sheltered pebble coves
our expert picks her go-tos","slug":"i-grew-up-in-spain-these-are-its-25-top-spots-for-a-beach-holiday","categoryPath":"/travel/destinations/europe-travel/spain/i-grew-up-in-spain-these-are-its-25-top-spots-for-a-beach-holiday-vhr25tf98","__typename":"Article","summary({\"maxCharCount\":105})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"From setting up a brightly coloured umbrella for the day on a buzzy
golden Mediterranean strand to"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":125})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"From setting up a brightly coloured umbrella for the day on a buzzy
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golden Mediterranean strand to hiking out to wild Atlantic beaches where waves roll onto"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":175})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"From setting up a brightly coloured umbrella for the day on a buzzy
golden Mediterranean strand to hiking out to wild Atlantic beaches where waves roll onto pearlescent sand"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":225})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"From setting up a brightly coloured umbrella for the day on a buzzy
golden Mediterranean strand to hiking out to wild Atlantic beaches where waves roll onto pearlescent sand
but the Lumiares has a"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":125})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"Panoramic points known as"},"children":[]},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" miradorous"},"children":[]}]},{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" are scattered across the City of Seven Hills
but the Lumiares has a lookout to rival"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":145})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"Panoramic points known as"},"children":[]},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" miradorous"},"children":[]}]},{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" are scattered across the City of Seven Hills
but the Lumiares has a lookout to rival any of them"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":160})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"Panoramic points known as"},"children":[]},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" miradorous"},"children":[]}]},{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" are scattered across the City of Seven Hills
but the Lumiares has a lookout to rival any of them: fifth-floor rooftop"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":175})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"Panoramic points known as"},"children":[]},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" miradorous"},"children":[]}]},{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" are scattered across the City of Seven Hills
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Bag a"},"children":[]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":225})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"Panoramic points known as"},"children":[]},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" miradorous"},"children":[]}]},{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" are scattered across the City of Seven Hills
The secret is out …Olhao is going through something of a renaissanceGETTY IMAGESAudrey GillanThursday February 13 2025
The TimesThe sun is rising above white-domed churches
shambolic nests — are shaking their wings and the water of the Ria Formosa natural park is beginning to shimmer in the light
I am marvelling at this dawn autumn vista from the rooftop of Casa Amor
charcuterie and cheeses from the nearby market
which is open to the public until late afternoon
Olhao eschews the boisterous bar life that dominates many of the Algarve resortsALAMY“Olhao is a diamond that hasn’t been polished yet and that’s why we love it,” he says
One of the biggest draws is that Olhao is a 15-minute drive from Faro airport
It was that light that also held me smitten when I first came here in 2009
• 14 of the best hotels in the Algarve
It became the place I returned to time and time again
They reminded me of Glaswegians (I am one) but in sunshine
• Where is hot in June? 17 of the best sunny destinations for 2025
Once grungy and smelly — the fish canning industry was a past mainstay — Olhao is now in a renaissance
Chaniol and Dellazoppa also lost their hearts to Olhao and found an almost derelict old guesthouse that had what they call “a wow effect”
their exquisite boutique hotel opened last spring
Olhao’s waterfront — with its transfixing sunsets — has recently been redone with reclining benches
when there’s a band and dancing with a spectacular sundown view (instagram.com/caislatinobar)
Casa Rosa’s rooftop terraceThis is a town full of artists and dreamers — you can come on a residential painting course at the boutique hotel Casa Rosa (casarosavillaolhao.com); buy art at Sala Simba or the Corte Real gallery at Casa Amor; or take in an exhibition at the wonderful Republica 14
while other new places such as O Cantinho da Cristina continue to up the culinary game (realmarina.realhotelsgroup.com)
In the vanguard of the revitalisation of the town is the British journalist Kevin Gould
And that sun is not just for the customers.”
Meals at Cha Cha Cha are made with fresh produce from the local marketDuring the pandemic Gould also founded a charity
The restaurant’s neighbouring barber allows him to place a few tables outside the front door when it closes at night
clams and oysters harvested directly from the muddy salt beds and the waters just beyond
• Read our Algarve guide
Audrey Gillan was a guest of Casa Amor, which has B&B doubles from £133 (casaamor-olhao.com)
with sunset walks down to Calada beach and hikes in the hills behind.Details Room-only doubles from £160 (aethos.com)
The lake in question has its own boating dock
an old fortified town uphill.Details B&B doubles from £151 (domesresorts.com)
The RebelloYou might have noticed the Rebello as you gazed across the Douro River from Porto
you’ll never go thirsty.Details B&B doubles from £144 (therebello.com)
Villa Red ChaletRICARDO JUNQUEIRAOverlooking white coastal cottages
cafés and taverns are buzzing round the clock.Details One night’s B&B for eight from £1,843; three-night minimum (vilavitacollection.com)
Occupying the grey area between hotel and self-catering
but you’ll have to contend with other people.Details B&B doubles from £208; two-night minimum (silentliving.pt)
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Cascais
you can now cross the country without leaving the tableOn May 7th
the Grande Real Villa Itália Hotel & Spa will host a gastronomic evening where two coasts and two identities meet at the table
Forget the car: this journey is made with a fork and glass in hand
in an experience where Algarve traditions take on new forms
Entre Mares brings the best of the Algarve to Cascais
courtesy of chef Noélia Jerónimo
invited by resident chef Luís Sousa
chef Noélia Jerónimo will prepare a tasting dinner with six to eight courses
The menu features fresh ingredients and is inspired by fishermen’s stories and salty memories
This journey will be accompanied by a selection of Portuguese wines
The evening begins with a welcome drink on the terrace
followed by the exclusive and intimate meal
The dinner is priced at €150 and includes the full menu and wine pairing
Seats are limited, and that can only mean one thing: don’t waste time—secure your place at the table. Reservations are available here
Grande Real Villa Itália Hotel & Spa
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Faro council has approved the opening of a competition for the construction of an ecovia between Faro and Olhão
The coastal ecovia will connect the two cities in the district of Faro
with the work having estimated execution time of 455 days
“The new infrastructure will establish a connection between the urban nucleus of Bom João
and crossings of Ribeira das Lavadeiras and Ribeira do Rio Seco and water levels of the Ria Formosa Natural Park are planned”
“to promote the use of gentle modes of mobility” and to create “an alternative connection between the city of Faro and Olhão”
The work will allow the implementation of recovery measures for a section of the ecovia that is located in the Ria Formosa Natural Park and the creation of a shared road in the urban area of the route
The existing pedestrian walkway will also be used
which wants to ensure the crossing of the existing water lines and planes of the main and secondary route
in Ribeira das Lavadeiras and Ribeira do Rio Seco
The project will also guarantee “landscape integration of infrastructure”
control of invasive species and introduction of native vegetation
the assignment and execution of the works are subject to obtaining approval from the Court of Auditors
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Olhão will celebrate its most emblematic popular traditions with the 41st Traditional Maios Exhibition on the national road 125
After marking the 40th anniversary of this cultural event last year
the tradition will continue in 2025 and the organisation is inviting everyone–residents
and associations in the municipality– to take part by creating and displaying their own Maios
The kindergartens of the Olhão municipality
will be collaborating in the making of the preparations of some of the Maios that will be on display on the EN125
These dressed-up human-sized dolls appear alone or in groups
representing scenes from everyday life in a combination of satire
It is an ancient tradition linked to the celebration of spring and the beginning of the new agricultural cycle
which in past times was done by placing Maios on doorsteps
Maios de Olhão is more than just a popular event
It is also an identity affirmation and a testament to the strength of the local culture
which continues to mobilise and enchant successive generations
The initiative, organised by Futebol Clube de Bias, has the support of the Municipality of Olhão through the Municipal Museum - Edifício do Compromisso Marítimo
and the parish councils of the municipality
The artists who will be performing at the Festival do Marisco de Olhão
which takes place from 9 to 14 August at the Jardim Pescador Olhanense
the line-up includes Portuguese artists such as D.A.M.A
Richi Campbell and the Brazilian group Menos é Mais
while the following day Nininho Vaz Maia will take to the festival stage
Rock band Xutos & Pontapés will perform on 11 August
The party ends with the Brazilian group Menos é Mais on the 14th of August
For more information, please visit http://festivaldomarisco.com/ and https://www.facebook.com/festivaldomariscodeolhao/
Century 21 Editorial Team 6 March 2025
9:00The Algarve town of Olhão is now home to a new and exclusive luxury residential development
Iris 3 offers just nine premium apartments
With T2 and T3 layouts and prices starting at €234,000
these stylish homes feature spacious 30 m² balconies and terraces of up to 80 m²
The kitchens come fully equipped with Bosch appliances
while high-efficiency Mitsubishi air conditioning
and heat pumps reflect a strong commitment to sustainability
Century 21All units include parking spaces ranging from 24 to 48 m²
while the top two floors boast exclusive rooftops with breathtaking 360° panoramic views of the sea
Another highlight is the double-glazed windows with black frames
ensuring excellent thermal and acoustic insulation for maximum comfort
Iris 3 is marketed by Century 21 Realty Art IV
which has introduced several strategies to enhance the appeal of purchasing
the promissory purchase and sale agreement does not require additional deposit instalments during the construction period and allows for the transfer of contractual position if needed
describes the development as “a unique opportunity for those seeking a property that combines luxury
He further states in a press release that the project is “already 40% sold” and was “designed to meet the expectations of the most discerning clients
offering modern and customisable living solutions
with a strong focus on energy efficiency and proximity to some of the best destinations in the Ria Formosa.”
Location is one of Iris 3’s key advantages, as it is less than five minutes from Olhão’s marina and markets, with easy access to the stunning islands of the Ria Formosa
Estoril Woods: exclusive new villas offering privacy, comfort, and natural beauty Estoril Woods is an exclusive new development on the Cascais Line
this project has been meticulously designed to provide residents with exceptional comfort and privacy
while offering a strong connection to nature
The city of Olhão will have a hub dedicated to the maritime economy
where several laboratories will be installed for the development of services and products in the areas of biotechnology and food
The Algarve Hub Azul hub will be created through the reconstruction and expansion of an existing building on the southern edge of the port area of Olhão, on the eastern pier of the fishing port, with an investment of 4.4 million euros shared by the Fundo Azul and the local authority
following an application for funds from the Recovery and Resilience Plan (RRP)
“It is an infrastructure that will meet the need for a space that enhances the sea cluster,” the mayor of Olhão
said after the laying of the first stone of the work
The infrastructure will function as a “living laboratory
goods and products in the areas of biotechnology
food and valorisation of endogenous marine resources”
the territory between Faro and Olhão already has “the best in the country” related to the sea cluster
and the new building will allow the creation of a space that allows researchers
“It will also be an important investment for employability in the Ria Formosa territories”
several laboratories for testing and cultivating marine organisms will be installed
providing the hub with capacity for molecular biology
bioprospecting for the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries
The new building will house rooms for researchers and technicians
various laboratories and areas reserved for companies
both for their technological development and for their intellectual property
we aim to further encourage the creation of interaction zones between companies
promote their networking with science and knowledge centers
and sharing with universities and training centers,” reads the Blue Hub website
This entity foresees that the Olhão building will have the capacity to incubate and install 15 companies and represent 90 jobs
which will “grow and boost the local and regional economy
The Algarve Blue Hub is formed from a consortium between the Municipality
the Portuguese Institute of the Sea and Atmosphere
and S2AQUAcoLAB - Collaborative Laboratory in Sustainable and Intelligent Aquaculture
The environmental authorities have banned bathing at Fuseta-Ria beach
and advised against going into the sea at Armação de Pera
due to microbiological contamination in the water
which is responsible for the beaches in the Silves area
told Lusa that the decision was based on water samples that revealed the presence of E.coli bacteria
we received a message from the health officer saying that bathing was prohibited,” the captain of the port of Olhão
adding that the analysis was carried out on Monday and that “a new sample was collected for analysis”
The environmental authorities will now carry out a new analysis
which will then determine whether the ban on Fuseta-Ria beach
located in the Ria Formosa (Faro district)
the captain of the port of Portimão told Lusa that the Algarve Hydrographic Region Administration (ARH)
on the proposal of the Algarve Regional Health Authority
advised against going swimming due to the results of an analysis carried out on a sample taken on Monday
As “intestinal enterococci levels above the limit were detected
The same source stressed that this is a forecast that is still subject to confirmation
as it depends on the results of the samples collected
Why are all the beaches in the country getting contaminated with microbes all of a sudden
Costumo praticar jet ski no oceano e muitas vezes vejo barcos esvaziando seus tanques em águas abertas
Isso não contribui para um boa qualidade da água
“This development will feature around 500 apartments and a luxury hotel, with a total construction area of approximately 70,000 square metres. The project, with an estimated turnover of around €300 million, will be developed by ANTRIX, a sister company of Carvoeiro Branco,” the company stated.
“This newly established real estate developer aims to expand the group’s presence beyond the regional level, consolidating its position in the Iberian market. ANTRIX is already in negotiations for new projects in Lisbon, Montijo, Setúbal, and southwestern Spain,” it added.
The project also includes the permanent and cost-free allocation of 250 parking spaces to Olhão City Council, which will create an additional public parking area in the city, according to the council’s statement.
Quoted in the release, Erik de Vlieger, CEO of Carvoeiro Branco, whose company has 1,400 units in the pipeline, described the development as one that redefines “the standards of luxury and quality in Olhão, offering residents and visitors a unique experience.”
Meanwhile, António Miguel Pina, the mayor of Olhão, commented that the project “will not only enhance the urban landscape but also contribute to the ongoing regeneration efforts” the council “has been carrying out in that part of the city, particularly the renovation of Avenida 16 de Junho, which has expanded and improved the waterfront.”
Dream home in Arrábida, Portugal: a unique exterior and an unexpected interior Every week
we open the doors to a dream home located in Portugal
we travel to the Arrábida Natural Park to explore a property located in the Serra do Louro
this house was built at the highest point of the land
where a ruin in a state of advanced degradation once stood
The curious exterior serves as the "entrance" to an interior that truly surprises
Several roads in the city of Olhão, in the district of Faro, were flooded today due to the intense rain that fell at the end of the morning, with greater incidence in the eastern (eastern) Algarve, said a Civil Protection source
A source from the Algarve District Emergency and Civil Protection Command told Lusa that the intense rain flooded several public roads in the city
the affected areas are low points where a large concentration of water usually occurs when it rains heavily in a short space of time
One of the flooded areas is a tunnel located under the railway line
“For now we have no record of road closures or more serious situations”
The intense rain that fell this morning in the Algarve for around 20 minutes flooded roads in Moncarapacho
and cellars and shops in downtown Albufeira
According to the Algarve District Emergency and Civil Protection Command
“the intense rainfall that fell in a short space of time
resulted in a total of 13 incidents recorded in various areas of the Algarve
Albufeira was the municipality in the district of Faro where the highest number of incidents was recorded
The Civil Protection source said that “there is also a record of a roof falling in a warehouse in Silves
which collapsed due to the weight of accumulated water
“there was no need to reinforce Civil Protection resources”
and local fire departments resolved all incidents
The more chemtrails they spray the more severe weather there will be
A few days ago the entire sky above the Algarve was sprayed over
Construction work on the new Quatro Estradas roundabout in Olhão will begin this week and is expected to last for four months
The city government stated that “renovation work will begin on Avenida D
at the intersection with Dâmaso da Encarnação and 18 de Junho streets”
in a project that foresees the construction of “a roundabout in the area known as Quatro Estradas”
The works are expected to last four months, estimated the Olhão City Council in a statement
highlighting that the new roundabout will “make traffic flow more fluid on all roads in that area” and improve pedestrian safety
and together with the new Variante and the end of tolls on Via do Infante
it will be the starting point for a more in-depth requalification
which will return the avenue to the people of Olhão”
Olhão in the Algarve doesn’t have the picture-perfect scenery – the beautiful rocky cliffs cascading into the sea – normally associated with the region
But this fishing town managed to avoid the overdevelopment that has plagued other fishing villages in the region
now cautionary tales of how not to approach urban planning
At the heart of Olhão’s fantastic old city center
It’s divided into two large red buildings with green domed towers
a distinctive feature that defines the town
One building sells fish and shellfish from the rich Atlantic waters while the other has fruits
cakes and cheese from the eastern side of the Algarve
which includes Faro (the regional capital) but most importantly the stunning Ria Formosa
a natural park that consists of lagoons and barrier islands
The market in Olhão is situated on the waterfront
It’s a joy to watch the sunset with a drink in hand or to eat some incredible seafood rice while contemplating the quiet blue waters
One of our favorite spots for the latter is Cervejaria Olhão
where Luísa Carmo has been cooking her Algarve specialties for the last 20 years
she used to have another restaurant on the town’s main drag
one of the barrier islands that make Ria Formosa so special
Perhaps most famous for its long stretch of sandy beach
the island is also home to many fishermen and shellfish gatherers
And I like to do it with the family,” she told us
While some chefs consider the Algarve to have some of the best fish in the world
Her sister Patrícia works as a waitress and still lives in Culatra
that doesn’t prevent her from making dishes that take longer to prepare such as arroz de marisco (seafood rice) or cataplana (a traditional Algarve seafood stew cooked in a copper pot of the same name)
a magnificent version of this beloved soupy rice dish
two kinds of lobster and langoustine were in such abundance in the stainless steel pot that we found ourselves wishing for more rice
so we recommend ordering in advance.) Her sardines with sweet potato and traditional salada montanheira (in which the tomato and cucumber are finely chopped) were also as fresh as you can get
She normally leaves after 3 p.m.
at which point her son replaces her in the kitchen
“He studied in the Hospitality School in Faro so he has a more gourmet style
but still he asks me many questions,” said Luísa
She also tried to study at the same school
but the “crisis came” (the bailout and financial crisis between 2010 and 2014) and she couldn’t make it work
the 62-year-old has been thinking about retiring and going back to Culatra
“I love this but it’s a lot of work and planning,” she explained
a city also known for its fish and seafood
the market spills out of the two buildings onto the waterfront
improvised stalls and amazing flavors delight the senses
Those visitors who make their way to Chá Chá Chá find a menu that is a reflection of the market: “I just go there every day and see what is best
Today for instance is the red mullet,” Kevin said. Forget being the best in Portugal, Olhão’s market “is one of the best in Europe
The municipality of Olhão (-10.02%) was one of nine that managed to achieve the stipulated water saving of 10% -
with the rest having consumption levels above government guidelines
who attended the meeting of the Regional Drought Subcommittee in Faro
admitted that municipalities that do not comply may be penalised
In turn, António Miguel Pina, president of the Municipality of Olhão and of the Algarve Intermunicipal Community (AMAL)
highlighted “the notable effort that was made because consumption increased year after year
Some municipalities achieved better results than others
with the mayor of Olhão highlighting the performance of ‘his’ municipality
which achieved the target set: “The citizens of Olhão are to be congratulated
highlighting the need to continue saving water
so that there is no shortage of water in the taps
the level is higher than that at the same time last year and
the Minister of the Environment guarantees that
splendid seafood and ramshackle charms of Olhão will soon be within reach again
Kevin GouldSat 27 Jun 2020 08.00 CESTLast modified on Thu 9 Jul 2020 13.03 CESTShareVitálio
There’s a flow of customers blown in on the early tide – their fruit and veg picked and dug
fish hooked and delivered to the market at the end of the alley – and a handful of older insomniacs
for Vitálio’s serves mainly as the bairro community centre
View image in fullscreen Illustration: Guardian DesignOlhão is 15 minutes from Faro airport
hard-living fishing town and proudly individualistic – Portuguese shorthand for clams and characters
this bairro where Vitálio has lived all his life
textured shadows thrown from the infinite blue sky above
once-prim cubist houses now in glamorous dereliction
There’s a feeling of North Africa as mopeds push past
and in the elaborate chimney pots with their echoes of minarets
we’re as close to Tangiers as we are to Lisbon
The last of the restrictions were lifted here on May 19
Lockdown was scrupulously observed: Portuguese society relies as much on understanding and mutual consideration as it does on its Byzantine laws
Now that we’re out (and all sporting our masks inside any business premises and on public transport)
once again gifts from the sea and the serra are presented daily to Vitálio by his friends
A brace of wild rabbit from the fields behind town
hedgerow snails crammed inside a water bottle if it rained overnight
View image in fullscreen‘It’s the being here that matters’: the cobbled streets of Fuseta
Photograph: DPA Picture Alliance/AlamyLucília
one of the pair of islands that protect us from the full force of the Atlantic
reminding us of how beautifully innocent and unironic life can be
I say “us” because I’m slowly becoming part of the bairro
drawn here first more than a decade ago by the symphonically fresh
to open a taberna and recently a tiny bakery in the collapsing bordello next door to Vitálio’s
I too now pay my respects to him with a daily freshly baked madeleine
which he palms in an instant into his chatty mouth
Folk are armpit-deep in the swell dragging for butterfly clams
or casting long lines for silvery sea bassYou reach both islands by Pugwash ferries from from the jetty at the end of the esplanada
or via taxi speedboat if you’re feeling a bit Raquel Welch or Tony Curtis
their low houses riotous with bougainvillea or fronted by eccentric gardens coaxed from the sand
Every August the sea gods are propitiated when the enormous Bacchic ceremony
is bedecked with flowers and toasted in Super Bock beer then borne wonkily aloft from Culatra’s chapel on a flotilla of overloaded boats to meet mid-channel with the Madonna from Olhão’s Mother Church
View image in fullscreen‘Here
history is in the faces of everyone around you
Photograph: Theo GouldOn the island there are half a dozen restaurants to serve you the perfect simple seafood lunch after which you amble along the boardwalk and over the low dunes
drawn on by the sound of the rising falling sea
The sands smell of the silver-sage and yellow-flowered curry plants that pepper them
Sparrows and bee-eaters nitpick and black swallows fed glossy and big on unsuspecting flies swoop and flit on swoosh-shaped wings
Huge and restless to make you feel small and peaceful
Just by being here you feel like you’re playing your bit part in the universal drama
Magnesium flares flash from sun-smashed waves
seduced when sweaty into the sea’s powerfully pristine embrace
Depending on the tide there may be some folk armpit-deep in the swell dragging for butterfly clams
or gently casting long lines for silvery sea bass
Three generations make little family encampments
Families of sandpipers needle the water’s edge
An hour’s stroll towards the setting sun leads you to the lighthouse at Farol
View image in fullscreenArmona island with Olhão in the background
Photograph: Gonzalo Azumendi/AlamyArmona is tamer
a poem in rhyming couplets to family holidays in bright bungalows:
Its rhythm is set by ferry passengers ebbing and flowing from the dock
Older folk channel their inner Vitálios with mornings spent tending smoky grills and their evenings in infinite gossip
Almost the last bungalow before the beach has a sand garden lovingly raked in Zen-like geometry
one of the handful of foreigners to live here
takes himself off for his daily beach stroll
As soon as he’s passed the double rank of sunbeds
he slips out of his trunks and pads the 9km east to the spit opposite Fuseta and back
Vitálio and his neighbours see themselves as Atlantic and not Mediterranean people
from a small country hemmed in by a powerful noisy neighbour on one side and the ocean on the other
poverty and politics to either get away or make do
it seems that the Portuguese are less effusive and more reserved than their neighbours
In this egalitarian community humility is a strength
and “simple” an adjective of the highest praise
Such native diffidence does not diminish Olhão’s strong sense of self
Olhanenses relish their distinctive dialect
its inflections and inferences more Arabic than European
ribald town is reflected also in the knowledge that we are surrounded by land and water so abundant that it gives us broad beans in February and strawberries 10 months of the year
and when a breeze blows through in early spring the cashmere aroma of orange blossom is exotic and narcotic
The Unesco-protected waters of the Ria Formosa
teem with the seafood you see in the market: monkfish
The prices we pay for all this world-class wildly fresh
naturally grown and caught produce make my London chef friends weep
fringed with myriad fruit trees and largely empty of humans
In June we come to pick a certain pink flowering thyme that only seems to grow here
and its high green scent fills the car for weeks afterwards
Phoenicians established tuna fisheries and fish-salting industries
The Romans appropriated and integrated the fruits of both civilisations
followed by their sterner North African cousins: the Inquisition put paid to them and most of the Jewish communities
Foreign soldiers came and stayed too – Napoleon was defeated on the outskirts of town (his army reputedly marched here on Olhão tinned sardines)
The DNA these visitors donated to Olhão’s gene pool is in the people’s gestures and attitude
Kevin Gould’s restaurant in Olhão is Chá Chá Chá and his gluten-free bakery is Santa Maria Madalena
has reopened to traffic in the Luz de Tavira area
after circulation was closed due to flooding caused by rain in the evening and early hours of today
the closure of the Algarve railway line in Fuseta (Olhão) remained due to the derailment of a train
caused by stones on the line being washed away by the rains
between Moncarapacho and Alfandanga and National Road 397
according to with the Algarve Regional Command
148 incidents have been recorded in the Algarve
involving 441 operational personnel and 178 land resources
The municipalities most affected by the bad weather and where the highest number of incidents were recorded were Olhão and Tavira
Although the situation is more normal today
firefighters continue to have to respond to different situations
two people were left homeless in Castro Marim and two others had to be rescued in Tavira
one from a car in Ribeira do Almargem and the other from a house
a woman was rescued after falling into Ribeira de Alfandanga
one of the areas most affected by the floods in the last 24 hours
and was later taken to the Algarve Local Health Unit
Railway traffic on the Algarve Line between Faro and Olhão has been suspended due to a railway collision in Areal Gordo in the municipality of Faro which caused a fatality, according to Civil Protection
According to the Algarve Regional Command of the National Emergency and Civil Protection Authority (ANEPC)
near a level crossing in the Areal Gordo/Salgados area
A source from Infraestruturas de Portugal (IP) told Lusa that rail traffic is currently interrupted on the section between Faro and Olhão
and expects it to be reopened once the line clearing operations are completed
eight Civil Protection operators were on-site