For those who live close to Romania’s border with Ukraine
current times are just a figment of a more complicated history
“There’s more of a panic with y’all in Romania than over at ours!,” Viorica laughs
She’s one of the peddlers who’ve come in from Chernivtsi
to sell their merch at the weekly market in Vicovu de Sus
This is a town in Suceava County located right next to the Ukrainian border
It’s not the first time we hear this on our trip through the villages that line the border
We’ve come here to see what the locals have to say about the Russian-Ukrainian crisis and meet the Ukrainian Hutsuls in the mountainous parts of Bukovina
Before our arrival to Vicovu de Sus, there was already talk in the local press of a Romanian Army military convoy having crossed Suceava County
of the military camp set up over the past few days in Suharău commune
a village in Botoșani County also located on the Romanian border with Ukraine
as well as of an American Black Hawk helicopter that had flown over the Siret customs point and landed in a nearby field.
Yet the atmosphere at the Vicovu market is somewhat more relaxed
people have come here to buy or sell merchandise
The war doesn’t seem to be a subject of great interest to them
you discover that their life stories reflect the area's complicated history in one way or another
These people understand full well the consequences of war and the ways in which community and family structures alter alongside borders
It has the reputation of a well-off town (where “unemployment remains a mystery”)
but also of a frontier hotbed teeming with black market cigarette networks (drones play their part in this).
you get the sensation you’re downtown in a big city
not in a remote corner of Bukovina; everything here vibrates and shines like brand new
as if an entrepreneurial genie had descended upon this place simultaneously with the cigarette-stuffed drones
where you can get a Flat White and a halloumi burger
and the Spartan fast-food restaurant and approach the market
lined with hundreds of stalls loaded with wares
SUVs and horse-drawn carts parked all in the same spot
This whole ruckus is enveloped in folk music and the smoke coming off the grills
which seems to expand all the way to Ukraine
You can quickly tell the Ukrainians apart by their merch (and sometimes their head scarves)
The colorful labels on the bottles and cans
and the bags of braided yellow cheese all catch your eye
a spirited woman, currently appeasing a suspicious customer questioning the quality of her sausages
I’ve been selling and eating these here for ten years
stepping back with her arms outstretched like a performer at the end of a show
He buys the sausages and scurries away in silence
in the same tone she uses to reprimand her customers
“I’ll have you know the situation over in our country [Ukraine] is very good
he’s got no business in these here parts.”
There's two types of merchants here: those who
live in Ukraine and only come to Romania for the markets
and those who moved over the past 10-15 years and settled permanently in Vicovu (they swing between the two countries; they visit their relatives in Ukraine and also buy their wares there)
The woman in her forties lives in Vicovu but hasn’t lost her connection with Ukraine
“People in Romania are more stressed out because of this war
It was the same when this whole epidemic started: in Romania people were completely lost
How should I put this… People aren’t as fearful there
Let me tell you what has changed: the situation has changed ‘cause everything’s become more expensive
no one’s going to go there,” says a voice from the adjoining stall
a retiree from a neighboring village who’s come here to do her shopping
She was born in Romania and has lived here her entire life
“Don’t you see that these Russians are doing military exercises at sea
I don’t think they went there for no reason
And I’ll have you know I’m prepared to help my brothers
everyone’s going to be running for their lives
And we have two houses and my sister who lives in Austria called me up and told me to prepare the keys to the other house
Somewhere at one end of the market, some older locals
If the market was the scene of an ancient tragedy
I don’t think there’s going to be a war… So long as our guys don’t meddle with it…,” says Ion
“We pray to God that nothing happens,” adds Ecaterina
It’s not as if they ask you anything beforehand
They kick you in the behind and that’s that
because if there’s peace you know you can go out and hoe your fields without a care
“All it takes is one nuke and you’re finished
you start crawling like a bug,” another merchant intervenes
“Just let God make the world’s bigshots wisen up and make peace
but I’m telling you they’re not that tough
You don’t go on holiday anymore–and those are for the youth anyway–
‘Cause those Russians sure are stubborn–didn’t you see on TV
they want to take out all that stuff from [the NATO camp at] Deveselu
“The Americans butted in here and now they’re at each other’s throats and we’re the ones who have to suffer,” Ion mutters after a few minutes' silence
Let them mind their own business in America.”
The market is about to end for the day and we start off
not before exchanging a few words with Mirela
a dairy producer who lives in a village 15 kilometers away from Vicovu
She has us taste sheep’s cheese and cow curds
then takes out her phone and gestures to us to hold on a little while longer
All these things were known beforehand–epidemics
everything must happen as it was prophesied,” she says while scrolling through her phone
Matthew 24: You will hear of wars and rumors of wars
There will be famines and earthquakes in various places
All these are the beginning of birth pains.”
Though the sky stays cloudy for the rest of the morning
and a bouncy song is pulsating in the background (love is more beautiful than I thought it could be)
some kids on bikes make their way down muddied paths
an old man is pushing a cartwheel carrying a dog cage
and other one makes you an offer for some New Balance sneakers.
Translated from the Romanian by Ioana Pelehatăi. Read the original here
Photographer. Together with Ioana Cîrlig, he is documenting Post-Industrial Stories and Fairies
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The hieromonks of Putna Monastery commemorated last Saturday
the thousands of Romanians massacred at Varnița (Fântâna Albă) on April 1
in the so-called “Romanian Katyn” onslaught
The service was held at the “People’s Golgotha – Fântâna Albă” Memorial Portal
The monastery fathers were joined by clergymen from Putna village
representatives of the following institutions laid wreaths: Putna Town Hall
“Ion Nistor” Vicovu de Sus Technological High School
the Association Suceava branch of the Romanian Orthodox Christian Students’ Association
A song and poetry recital by the vocal-traditional group “Ai lui Ștefan
noi oșteni” (“Prince Stephen’s New Servicemen”) from the “Ion Nistor” High School in Vicovu de Sus followed
spoke about the transformation of the Fântâna Albă into a mass grave for thousands of Romanians killed because they were in search of their country
Melchisedec Velnic presented the message of Mr
Secretary of State at the Department for Romanians Abroad
is a day of tragic memory for the Romanian people
more than 3,000 Romanians were killed at Fântâna Albă when they tried to cross into Romania after the annexation of northern Bukovina by the Soviet Union
We will keep alive their memory and the sacrifice they made in order to be forever close to their kindred,” the official said
The archimandrite recalled that he has not been able to pray at the massacre site since 2019
Discussions are currently underway to make the Fântâna Albă – Climăuți border crossing
The Abbot of Putna reiterated the need for the Fântâna Albă massacre to be included in history textbooks and expressed his hope that a church in memory of the victims could one day be built at the site
After the signing of the Ribbentrop-Molotov Pact in 1939
so many families began to cross the new border and come to Romania
One such group was made of the thousands massacred at Fântâna Albă on April 1
000 Romanians from Bukovinan villages along the Siret Valley left for Romania: from Pătrăuții de Sus
They had decided that they would rather die than live in the Soviet Union
Those at the head of the group carried three crosses
They told the Soviet authorities that they wanted to leave without taking anything with them
When they reached the border they were met with machine-gun fire
the wounded who remained alive were thrown into mass graves along with the dead
Those who managed to escape were tracked down in the surrounding area
around 13,000 families from their villages were deported to Siberia and Kazakhstan
with only about 10% surviving the deportation
April 1 was designated in 2011 as the National Day for Honouring the Memory of Romanians – victims of the massacres from Fântâna Albă and other areas
and other forms of repression organized by the Soviet totalitarian regime in Herta County
northern Bukovina and the whole of Bessarabia
Putna Monastery’s “People’s Golgotha – Fântâna Albă” Memorial Portal was consecrated on July 2
The whole ensemble – including a monumental gate
spaces for laying flowers and lighting candles
and inscriptions with the names of the martyred villages – has a profound significance and a symbolic message
the cross marks a place of sacrifice; placed before the gate
it shows that those killed laid their lives in passing towards their beloved Romania
which was also a passage to true freedom in God
The fountain is the symbol of the life that springs from sacrifice
The portal was built by the monastery on the site of a cross erected on April 1
in memory of the Fântâna Albă massacre victims at the initiative of the Romanian Government’s Department for Romanians Abroad
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