The Catholic Church in the European Union
Commission of the Bishops’ Conferences of the European Union
a charming small town on the eastern shore of Lake Vättern
has been a significant center for both Catholic and Lutheran spiritual history in Sweden since the Middle Ages
Its prominence is largely tied to the life and legacy of Saint Bridget of Sweden (Heliga Birgitta in Swedish)
was named one of the six patron saints of Europe
Saint Bridget received divine visions from Christ
instructing her to establish a new monastic order dedicated to the Most Holy Savior
Following Pope Urban V’s approval of the Bridgettine Order in 1370
Vadstena Abbey was founded to fulfill this mission
Saint Bridget spent much of her life in Rome and never witnessed the abbey’s completion
The practical aspects of its construction and establishment were managed by her children
The monastery was finally consecrated in 1384
eleven years after Saint Bridget’s death
It swiftly became a prominent religious and cultural centre
and links to international pilgrimage routes
a Catholic presence endured in Vadstena for many years
and the medieval abbey church remained a significant pilgrimage site for countless visitors
Vadstena remains an important centre for Catholics in Sweden
Pilgrims and tourists from around the world visit the town to honour Saint Bridget and immerse themselves in its rich history
established in 1935 by Maria Elisabeth Hesselblad
continues the tradition of prayer and hospitality
the Catholic Diocese of Stockholm has organised diocesan pilgrimages to Vadstena
Saint Bridget’s remarkable life story
combined with the town’s stunning surroundings and well-preserved medieval architecture
makes Vadstena a truly unique destination in Sweden
Her enduring legacy continues to shape the town
serving both as a historical landmark and as a vibrant centre of Christian life throughout Scandinavia
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Saint Catherine of Sweden (born 1331/32, Sweden—died March 24, 1381, Vadstena; feast day March 24) was the daughter of St. Bridget of Sweden
whom she succeeded as superior of the Brigittines
She was never formally canonized but is listed in the Roman martyrology
we found ourselves once again in the era of Heidenstam
built 100 years ago with support of Ellen Key
sits on a hill with lush vegetation and boasts a lovely view of Vättern and the surrounding countryside
it exuded an air of Carl Larsson and turn-of-the-century Sweden: pastel colors and lots of white furniture
from the broad terrace that seemed to stretch around the entire building to the dining room with its huge multi-paneled windows
The next day we planned to visit neighboring Strand
But right now we were making ourselves comfortable in the hotel
chatting with chef Marcus Larsson and his wife Pernilla
who together with his brother Jonas and sister Linda
bought the hotel about six years ago ago and now run it
A selection of opening tidbits stretched almost the entire length of a long table
most creative cucumber soup poured over a small piling of char
we began with a glass of white Bordeaux and continued with Valpolicella
And we must not forget the dessert: a cheesecake with rhubarb
raspberries and white chocolate — given a maximum five-star review by Roxie
who is generally not that crazy about sweets
Carl Larsson's presence could once again be felt
the famous painter and his wife Karin were both close friends of Ellen and presumably had something to do with the way she decorated her house
Ellen Key is no longer much talked about these days
she was once one of the most prominent writers in the country
An early feminist and suffragist with strong political views on most subjects
she’s best known for her book Barnets århundrade
“The Century of the Child,” which has been translated into 26 languages and reprinted many times
It contains her ideas on education and school problems
many of which are so modern that they are only now being put into practice
In it she emphasizes the importance of allowing children to specialize in subjects of their own choosing
and since young people should be able to grow up without fear
she takes a firm stand against all forms of corporal punishment
especially in Germany; Goethe was one of her idols
as were Henrik Ibsen and Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson
Key lived in Strand from 1910 until her death in 1926
the house was turned into a summer home for indigent working women
and has today become a place where adult female students can engage in study and meditation during the summer
As curator Hedda Jansson guided us from room to room
one of which was by the well-known painter Richard Bergh
“To Ellen from Dick,” he had written on a print of his famous painting of the poet Gustaf Fröding
also on display in this remarkable Lake Vättern homestead
boasting the longest and arguably most difficult-to-decipher rune inscription in the world (I remember seeing it featured in the New Larousse Encyclopedia of Mythology)
it’s some 8 feet tall and stands under a protective roof near the church in which it was discovered
Adjacent to it is a Viking-inspired shop and café
Once again a married couple in charge of running a place
This time it was Håkan Strotz and Ulrika Krynitz
he a Swedish forester and she a German biologist and designer
which slowly but surely has become a reality at UrNatur
It began 20 years ago when they bought a 100-acre farm
In the midst of meadows and forests and next to a small lake
and what could be termed the epitome of eco tourism — where everything is driven and inspired by nature and sustainability
which roughly translates to “essence of nature,” is now the perfect place for relaxation and reflection
listen to the crackle of wood burning and to the soft wind in the trees outside
Each residence is a unique handcrafted cabin with an evocative name
we and a few other guests were hoisted onto a cart and taken to our respective cabins
A herd of black sheep showed up behind the traditional fence lining the path on both sides
Soon we reached our destination: the Air Castle
As “perchers” rather than “nesters” (to use definitions picked up during a visit to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Falling Water)
the newest and highest of UrNatur’s two tree houses
Twenty-nine steps up a spiral staircase and we were at our temporary home halfway up a tall pine tree
and a suspension bridge led to a nearby platform wrapped around another tree
Now we just had to wait for twilight to light the kerosene lamp
with little flower bouquets to make you feel extra pampered
and not surprisingly consisted of fresh ingredients appropriated from the farm
using an axe and wood chopping — these are some of the classes offered at UrNatur
Or you can borrow a rowboat or canoe and go fishing or sweat it out in the forest sauna
after a hearty breakfast we visited Ulrika’s studio
a spacious loft with a display of various furnishings: carpets
I was struck by the utter simplicity of many of the patterns
all linked to nature with names such as “Seaweed
Jellyfish” and “Bark Beetles.” Before departing
we went for a short walk and found a young woman busily cutting down the upper branches of a tree
A pruning system called “pollarding,” this is yet another one of those things you can do at UrNatur
and everyone in Sweden thinks of polkagrisar
the red and white candy for which the town has become famous
Though aware of Gränna’s popularity among tourists
I was amazed at the crowds lining the main street
the ruins of the 17th century castle situated on the outskirts of town
attempted to reach the North Pole in a hot air balloon
The town remembers him with a museum as well as a very popular annual balloon festival
So this was the tuft of grass that the giant Vist threw into the lake
Visingsö was pretty much as I remembered it from an earlier visit
except for the increased number of tourists
I climbed onto one of the rustic “Remmalagen” horse-drawn carriages for a tour of the island
20 passengers equally divided on the left and right side of the wagon
clickety-clack fashion to various island sights
I recall an herb garden and a place where a couple hundred Russian prisoners of war were buried back in the early 1700s
And I remember passing through a beautiful oak forest before reaching the Kumlaby church
Invited to visit the church’s high lookout tower
I decided to give it a miss after I got stuck with my camera bag in the incredibly tight space in a medieval stairway
overlooking the harbor and the old castle ruin
we dug into a summery salad with herb dressing and a generous serving of those delectable tiny shrimp you get only in Scandinavia
Here ends our Vättern adventure: four days of history
It was also tinged with a bit of nostalgia since it was in this neighborhood we stayed overnight in Gränna during Roxie’s first visit to Sweden
For some reason we were offered the bridal suite
a lovely room with a superior view of the lake
Roxie had her first taste of vätternröding
(Part one appeared in the April 30 issue of Nordstjernan, No. 08. It can also be seen at http://www.nordstjernan.com/news/travel/6061/)
spend a summer or simply get away to enjoy the unmatched beauty and culture of the area
Some of the country's most welcoming towns are the best ways to experience all the country offers
Whether this means historic tours in Visby or hiking through the wilderness of Rättvik
Astray from the urban hustle and bustle yet connected to nature
tourists love these welcoming communities spread throughout
Visby is a mystical and charming mediaeval town situated on the Swedish island of Gotland in the Baltic Sea
which happens to be the largest island in Sweden
The whimsical destination is one of Sweden's UNESCO World Heritage Sites
famed for its mediaeval Hanseatic architecture
Each boasts unique stories that captivate visitors with centuries of knowledge
The Gotland's Museum is a great spot to delve into the area's past
including archaeological finds dating back to Viking times
travellers may enjoy the great outdoors at the 2.5-hectare Botanical Garden or visit the nearby Tofta Beach
These sites are full of lush greenery and glistening water
making them perfect for outdoor activities
Biking is especially popular in the area since the land is mostly flat
while a hiking trip to Högklint offers unforgettable panoramic views
which is palpable through the array of historic attractions
the area houses several magical castles dating back thousands of years
Whether it is their mediaeval architecture or priceless furniture and paintings
these castles are a treat for history enthusiasts
Rättvik sits on the eastern shore of Lake Siljan and is an attractive destination for those who love classic cars and good tunes
attracting tourists from all over to partake in Sweden's biggest meet-up for nostalgic cars
Rättvik is also home to Europe's top outdoor arena
It's the perfect place to attend a concert and enjoy the area's beauty and the music's excitement
Apart from the cultural vibrance and enthusiasm of Rättvik’s 4,700 locals
There are plenty of hiking and biking trails
such as the 4.5 km (2.8 mi) Enåleden trail or cycling tours in the Siljan area
Rättvik's golf course also offers a chance to relax among the breathtaking scenery
Kiruna is Sweden's northernmost town, where many find the opportunity to view the Northern Lights and the Midnight Sun
a phenomenon where the sun remains visible at midnight
with an elevation of 6,900 feet above sea level and two mountain peaks
such as the famous King’s Trail (Kungsleden)
a scenic 467 km (290 mi) route that only the bravest can conquer
Dog sledding is another favourite among tourists and locals alike
For a more relaxing experience with nature
various guided fishing tours cover thousands of lakes in the area
A visit to Kiruna also means a visit to Sápmi
which is the land of the indigenous Sámi people
a culture deeply entrenched in the local community
Ystad sits on Sweden's southern coast in Scania county
pastel-coloured houses that line its main streets
These spots transport visitors to a bygone era
whether it is through the town’s fishing past or old railway connections
the welcoming streets of Ystad are also full of shops and outlets
This is Ystad's most prominent retail street
as it is Scandinavia's largest film studio
those seeking a relaxing vacation must visit Ystad Saltsjöbad
They can experience the bliss of its spa and surrounding scenery
Kalmar is a popular destination on the way to the island of Öland
though many celebrate it for its own historic charm
The town sits on the shores of the Baltic Sea
with easy access to Öland via the Öland Bridge
featuring over 500 km (311 mi) of coastline that is ideal for a summer vacation
Visitors can take in the views through various pursuits
visit the Kalmarsund Selden trail and enjoy 200 km (124 mi) of pristine coastline
Kalmar also has a rich and intriguing mediaeval town centre
a fortified tower in the 12th century transformed into a Renaissance castle by King Gustav Vasa
The Kalmar County Museum offers travellers a chance to delve into the area's history
It highlights unique events like the centuries-old shipwreck Regalskeppet Kronan
kids adore "A World of Dinosaurs," Europe's largest dinosaur exhibit
which is open from June through October and features over 200 dinosaur skeletons
Vadstena has a history dating back to the 13th century
home to various landmarks that history enthusiasts adore
it houses another castle from the era of King Gustav Vasa
which was the first monastery of the Bridgettine Order and is now one of the most well-preserved castles in the country
it now showcases the religious heritage of the town
Those interested in learning about the past can visit Wadstena–Fogelsta Järnväg
once a railway that connected the town to the rest of Sweden
and now a museum railway documenting the town's past
Vadstena also sits next to Sweden's second-largest lake
which offers water activities such as swimming
Trosa is a popular destination for families
the "find and guess quiz" on the Heritage Trail
Simrishamn sits at the southeastern tip of Sweden and is the heart of Österlen
Nicolai Church with Carl Milles sculptures
as well as the Rose Garden that marks the town's centre
Travellers may explore the town on their own
picking up a self-guided tour map at the tourist information office on the south side of the fishing port
It also boasts close proximity to the coastline of the Baltic Sea
featuring a beautiful harbour and fishing port
ideal for anglers and boating enthusiasts alike
meaning travellers may easily take a trip to both towns in one vacation
Sweden is a blend of beautiful natural landscapes and vibrant cities
It is the ideal destination for those looking to explore both culture and unmatched natural beauty
Its most welcoming small towns offer an enchantment and warmth unlike any other
brightened by the natural scenery surrounding them
alongside each community's uniqueness and depth
Travelers are sure to find the local events and happenings enthralling
photos and original descriptions © 2025 worldatlas.com
New Album “Karg” Available July 22nd on Metal Blade Records
Swedish Viking black metal-tinged act, KING OF ASGARD are set to release their third album “Karg” July 22nd, 2014 via Metal Blade Records. Visit metalblade.com/kingofasgard to stream the first single “The Runes Of Hel” and pre-order your copy of the album
Today KING OF ASGARD debuts a new video from the record for the song “The Runes of Hel“. Decibel Magazine’s Deciblog is hosting an exclusive premiere of the video HERE
handled the photography and the completion of this piece
Assisted by our fellow thrall Petter Fredriksson
as we present to thee; ‘The Runes of Hel’!“
The song entitled “Remant of the Past” can be streamed HERE
“Karg” is the third album of KING OF ASGARD
following “Fi’mbulvintr“
which was released in 2010 and “…to North” in 2012
“Karg” has again been recorded with Andy LaRocque at the infamous Sonic Train Studios
The band’s two previous, critically acclaimed albums are available worldwide on Metal Blade Records. Listen to the band on iTunes and Spotify to hear what Terrorizer Magazine called “intense blackened folk metal“
Buy iTunes Artist Page Artist News
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Swedish archaeologists Dr Andreas Viberg of Stockholm University and Dr Martin Rundkvist of the University of Umeå have found the remains of a major Viking feasting hall at the hamlet of Aska near Vadstena
Ground-penetrating radar results collected at the Aska hamlet
Image credit: © Andreas Viberg / Martin Rundkvist
The hamlet of Aska is famous among Viking scholars for a rich 10th century burial with a silver female figurine
The main visible archaeological feature of the site is an enormous barrow
but its contents have not been excavated yet
As the barrow is oval and has an extensive flat top
it has been hypothesized previously that rather than a grave superstructure
this might be an uncommonly large raised foundation for a long house
Dr Viberg and Dr Rundkvist have revealed that it is a foundation platform for a large building
and was equipped with double walls and four entrances
It was probably the home of a royal family whose rich graves have previously been excavated nearby
The scientists used a remote sensing device called ground-penetrating radar to locate and map the hall foundation
The measurements also indicate a large fireplace at the center of the floor
“Parallels are known from several of the era’s elite sites, such as Fornsigtuna near Stockholm and Lejre near Roskilde,” said Dr Rundkvist, who is a co-author of the paper detailing the discovery in the journal Archaeological Prospection
“The closest similarities are however seen in a recently excavated feasting hall at Old Uppsala near Stockholm
Such close correspondences suggest intensive communication between the two sites.”
Dr Viberg added: “our investigation demonstrates that non-invasive geophysical measurements can be powerful tools for studying similar building foundations elsewhere
They even allow scholars to estimate the date of a building without any expensive excavations.”
It’s widely known that reviews are hardly ever truly objective
As much as the author may try to remain dispassionate
their own experience and erudition affect their evaluation of the piece
this effect is intensified if the theme or genre is close to one’s heart or area of expertise
This is precisely why I avoid writing reviews of productions of older ballets and operas (from the 18th century)
which I have been researching for several years
A thorough knowledge of the historical material and never-ending discussions with colleagues can result in someone developing their own interpretations and ideas of how such productions may have appeared
And those productions which are carried out very rarely correspond to these interpretations. On the other hand
which isn’t really at the centre of interest in contemporary cultural productions
will produce excitement and respect in the expert
Especially if this presentation is ‘historically informed’
operas and ballets shouldn’t be staged as only an illustration of history
but mainly to interest the modern spectator and reveal their inner beauty and charm
as pieces from the opera-ballet genre from the 17th and 18th century were put on by two renowned operatic institutions
The Drottningholm court theatre (which is as old as the theatre at Český Krumlov castle) staged the well known single act piece Pygmalion by Jean-Phillip Rameau and the Art Academy in Vadstena
an evening composed of short pieces under the name Sun and the North Star (Solen och Nordstjärnan
Opéra-ballet pour Louis XIV et Charles XII) was devised
I was particularly interested by the fact that both institutions decided to move away from “classical” opera interpretation
in which the director takes the lead and the dance plays only an accompanying role
but instead they placed the entire production in the hands of the choreographers
Another interesting fact was the unique approach which the selected artists chose to go down
It consisted of two diametrically contrasting methods
representing opposing ends of an approach towards older musical and dance pieces
both of which became unique exponents in their category
Sun and the North Star: Baroque isn’t Boring
On one end of the imaginary pole we can see a historically informed way of production
by which Swedish choreographer Karin Modigh works
The founder of the group Nordic Baroque Dancers has extensive experience with the repertoire and dance technique of the 17th and 18th century as a performer
She repeatedly collaborated with French choreographer Marie-Geneviève Massé’s ensemble Compagnie de Danse l’Eventail (ballets Don Juan
she even performed in other historical pieces by other directors-choreographers such as Deda Cristina Colonna (Lully’s opera Armide) and Sigrid T’Hooft (Handel’s Imeneo)
Every summer she also organises a prestigious international baroque dance school in Sweden
This year in Vadstena she received the opportunity to employ her experience in a new role as both director and choreographer at once
The Vadstena Academy is a unique institution whose mission is both the education of young artists and the preparation of professional productions
After intensive preparation they are revealed in what’s known as the wedding hall of a local castle
chooses novel material and frequently provides the opportunity for older pieces to be produced
even those which have never been performed in the modern era
Karin Modigh was given carte blanche when choosing a piece and
The Prologue of Desfontaine’s opera Le désespoir de Tircis (1699)
an effusive ode to the French king Louis XIV; Lully’s Ballet des Nations from Moliere’s comedy-ballet Le Bourgeois gentilhomme (1670) and Narva Ballet (Ballet meslé des chants héroiques
1701) performed as a world premiere in the modern time
The final named piece has a well-known place in Swedish dance history
It was a court ballet arranged by Nicodem Tessin to honour the monarch Charles XII on the occasion of a victorious battle against the Russians at Narva
French artists performed in the piece (from the Rosidor Group) and recent research has revealed that their celebratory ballet was a selection of famous pieces from the French ballet and opera repertoire
The music was composed by Jean Desfontain and J-B Lully
as well as by the Swedish court composer Anders Von Düben
The introductory prologue from the composite evening named Sun and The North Star presented a scene of French court life where noblemen entertain themselves by the performance of a pastoral opera
Games and Pleasures (Jeux et Plaisirs) celebrates life and youth
the return of Louis XIV being the pretext for this cheerful pastoral. A series of arias
choirs and dances are essentially a display of artistic achievements and fantastic costumes
There’s a charm in the directoral-choreographical solution of the prologue where performers gradually appear on stage and for the most part stay there
constantly active even though they don’t have a solo
sometimes all dancing together - in short there’s no silent place
The artistic quality of some of the scenes varies - it’s an academy show after all
some of whom were trying out the technique of baroque dance and singing for the first time
Somewhat stiff hand movements or musical immaturity is compensated for by live acting on the part of the performers
which is uncommon even among experienced artists
Their engagement and playfulness manages to sufficiently interest the audience
Attention is constantly drawn towards the costumes of Anna Kjellsdotter
bursting with imagination which also define individual characters
is dressed in a round crinoline skirt made entirely of flowers
the god of the sea and a nymph in a dress which is blue in colour and laden with sea shells
“The Games” are wearing the symbols of playing cards
even with high feathered plumes and numberless sequins
After a short pause followed the well known Ballet des Nations
consisting of musical-dance miniatures on the theme of courting of Spaniards
This divertissement is presented as a ‘play within a play’
It starts with the arrival of French artists to the Swedish countryside
led by an especially funny libretto distributor (speaking a mixture of old French and Swedish)
where they are met by a rather “austere” audience
The individual performances overflow with lyricism
A trio of exquisite Spanish singers alternate with dancers who skilfully master the playing of castanets
the canal is represented by a strip of blue cloth
scurry down with a melancholic singer - obviously
mimic and movement techniques of comedy dell’arte appear here
the French from Poitou sing their love songs and shepherds dance joyful minuets
and acting point of view) even livelier than the previous
From an interpretational and production standpoint
it could be considered the pinnacle of the evening
The following Narva ballet showed the lofty and pompous celebration of the monarch
primarily consisting of heroic arias and ceremonial processions
doesn’t contain as many contrasting scenes
The gloomy beginning consists of a sad scene with Carnival who loses his ability to entertain people
Despite the fact that his costume is literally an explosion of imagination
Even the two doctors are unable to help him (yet they are able to entertain the audience with their minimalistic choreography)
(This performer was a mentor for the singers during the rehearsals)
The mood changes with the arrival of Gloria
who announces the King’s victory in battle with the celebrated arias by Mars and Bellona
They are joined in the scene by Swedish noblemen and soldiers
While the former don’t move too much
the soldiers assemble themselves into an acrobatic pyramid form known from 17th century manuscripts
A generally slow tempo and more static direction made the whole thing slightly more clunky
Perhaps if this part were placed in the middle
the programme would benefit and the audience would leave on a slightly more cheerful note
In any case it was a very successful artistic feat
which largely thanks to the directoral-choreographical leadership of Karin Modigh and her motivated team
proved that baroque opera-ballet consists of many colours
life and can offer the audience a varied spectacle
And this is quite rare within the realms of so-called historically informed performances which often fall into a near museum-like stasis influenced by period art and references
At the court theatre in Drottingholm (Drottningholms Slottsteater) they are taking a completely new approach towards older pieces
One of the smaller European baroque theatres with preserved and functional machinery and scenery
has being churning out a modern mise-en-scène for several years
even if their orchestra plays period instruments and the repertoire is limited to pieces composed before 1800
The conflict between the historical scenery
music and the modern directorship is at times almost painful and many consider it a waste of a unique opportunity
there are many modern theatres where these kind of experiments can be staged
but not very many baroque theatres - and their specific architecture
acoustics and overall aesthetic often makes modern mise-en-scène rather difficult
many of those here who saw the opera-ballet Pygmalion by J.-P
Rameau this year may have felt the same way
I was rather torn as my reverence towards baroque theatre clashed with my fondness for contemporary dance
specifically the work of Japanese choreographer Saburo Teshigawara
I was excited to find that this well-known artists
who has created pieces for the Parisian Opera worked very sensitively and respectfully with the space
He didn’t try to impose any foreign scenography elements
He simply stayed true to his own style which he tastefully built into this unique space
Teshigawara decided to use some baroque set pieces and machine elements
the audience saw the movements of the clouds
the changing of scenery and the trap door in a Drottingholm production again
Selected scenery of the inside of the palace
the walls and landscape bore subdued beige tones
and this shade was used for the simple costumes consisting of light strips of cloth wrapped around the performers’ bodies
In order for the choreographer to highlight his discipline
he decided to double the singing roles with dancers
We saw Pygmalion almost constantly on stage along with his reanimated statue of performers (Anders J
Dahlin and Silvia Moi) and dancers (Quentin Roger a Rihoko Sato)
Teshigawara alone undertook the role of narrator of some kind - as the only one dressed in a flowing black costume
revealing himself at the start of piece and again at key moments
the singers sat at the front of the stage in a square of light
without any significant movements or facial expressions
The choreographer dipped into his typical vocabulary putting emphasis on the fluttering and flapping of arms and a fluency of movement - walking
The movements at times faithfully mirrored the music
however formally these two elements definitely did not come together as is (was) common in baroque dance
which was pleasingly complemented by the lighting (which is for Teshigawara an inseparable part of the piece
after some time this monochromatic image became somehow monotone
just like the view of three unchanging dancers
The monotony was more pronounced as this one act piece was preceded by a purely abstract dancing section
was accompanied by the music of Rameau’s predecessors (Lully
It was at this point that I felt some colour and life was missing
This problem was most apparent in the Dance of Graces which is supposed to celebrate beauty and love
the black figure of the choreographer appeared on the stage again and partly danced and mimed the story of a statue turning into a woman
The monotony didn’t leave the performance until the end
the admirable performances of the artists notwithstanding
composed of complex arm movement combinations
The invitation of a contemporary choreographer to produce an opera-ballet was a bold choice on the part of the theatre leadership
it was he who showed a greater respect to the theatre and was able to incorporate it into the aesthetic of his work
more than has been seen here in the past three years
His style is visually beautiful and very kinetic
even if his encounter with the opera-ballet genre wasn’t a great fit
I wonder what the outcome would be had Karin Modigh taken the lead on this
with its link to the music and live gesture
This we can only imagine and hope that this style one one day return to the Drottningholm stage
Written at the performance of the 8th & 11th August 2018 in Vadstena and Drottingholm respectively
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A two-part account of a journey through Ostergotland in south central Sweden
Travel writer and photojournalist Bo Zaunders often reaches back in history to shape the itineraries of his expeditions
This two-part account of a journey through Ostergotland in south central Sweden is no exception
Part 1: The eastern shores of Lake Vättern
Chivalry did not begin with Sir Walter Raleigh laying down his valuable cloak in the muddy ground to prevent Queen Elisabeth I from dirtying her feet
making sure his wife had something to step on as she crossed Lake Vättern
Moving from gallantry and legend to medieval history
was once a hotbed for Swedish royalty with some half a dozen kings using it as their home back in the 12th and 13th centuries
is one of the first things that catches the eye
History permeates not just the island but the entire eastern shore of Lake Vättern
a stretch along which my wife Roxie and I traveled for a few days this past summer
which lies at the southern end of the lake
was our final stopping point on a journey that began in Linköping
familiar to anyone who ever cruised the Göta Canal
the couple who owns the hotel and its restaurant
the delectable char for which the lake is famous
expertly plated by Karin and served with the kind of scrumptious new potatoes in which
the whole country takes well-deserved pride
Had the question been asked a century ago it may have raised an eyebrow
Heidenstam was quite a celebrity and just about the most famous and respected poet and writer in all of Sweden
A leading figure among the literary romanticists of the 1890s
he later became a member of the Swedish Academy and was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1916
his most beloved work may have been Karolinerna (The Charles Men)
a series of historical portraits of King Charles XII and his cavaliers
a narrative steeped in unabashed patriotism
and rather overbearing at times (he was involved at one point in a highly publicized debate in which he and his old patron August Strindberg fought each other viciously)
Which brings us to his rambunctious wedding on the small Baltic island of Blå Jungfrun in the summer of 1896
Apparently it was a Dionysian feast without compare
In faded photographs you see him and his guests
prominent artists and writers such as Albert Engström and Gustav Fröding
skinny dipping or romping through the woods with nothing but leaves to cover themselves
the manor house he designed and had built on a hillside next to Vättern
kept the way it was at the time of his death in 1940
There we met with manager Per-Gunnar Andersson
who enthusiastically guided us from room to room
displaying an inexhaustible knowledge of everything connected to the great “national poet.” The library
Those with golden backs were placed to reflect the sun at sunset
the latter to replicate the forest outside one of the windows
desk and chairs were arranged so the beautiful lake view would not distract him while working
as evidenced by a large shaving mirror right in the middle of his bedroom
and others were for dear friends and frequent visitors
such as Prince Eugene and explorer Sven Hedin
In the kitchen stood the first electric model of an Electrolux 1934 refrigerator
As we passed through the main hallway I took note of an imposing statue of Heidenstam’s mythological hero Folke Filbyter
used in the wars that raged back in the early 1700s
Per-Gunnar’s eyes shone with excitement as he picked it up
we could see his tomb and final resting place
and told us of a meeting he had a long time ago with a man who
Heidenstam would often show up for inspections
“Make sure I get plenty of space,” he told the workmen
Per-Gunnar presented me with a bag full of various paraphernalia
Printed on the bag was a photo of Heidenstam
gazing at his beloved lake — always that aristocratic profile
a medieval town best known for its connection to Sancta Birgitta (Saint Bridget)
we checked in at the Vadstena Klosterhotell
a former monastery dating back to the mid-13th century
the dimly lit restaurant featured ancient vaults and thick brick walls
Roxie began her meal with a light concoction of bleak roe
I followed with a side of smoked pork confit boiled in beer and fennel cream
This seemed an appropriate ending to a day full of history and good traditional food — enhanced by a bottle of Chablis Pinot Noir
all in the chiaroscuro light of a Rembrandt or Caravaggio painting
I visited the Sancta Birgitta Convent Museum and the Vadstena Castle
The museum elucidates the life and achievements of Birgitta
you’re invited to “converse” with Birgitta and browse through her heavenly revelations; in others you get glimpses of what life was like in the old nunnery
along with the history of the Brigittine Order
I was a little surprised to discover that the Order ran the largest brewery in the country
and that each nun received three liters a day for personal consumption
who brought about the destruction of the convent while converting Sweden to Protestantism
thus retaining Vadstena’s prominence in Sweden
Surrounded by a moat and flanked by stout round towers
which began as a fortress when it was built in the mid-16th century
was later transformed into a continental-style Renaissance palace
Its heyday was apparently when Gustav’s son
It never played much of a role in defending Sweden
and for a long time it was used as a garrison and later as a granary and linen mill
and guided tours now show some of the grandeur of its early days
In one large hall was a display of opera costumes from various epochs
costumes which visitors can try on; they are part of an exhibit called “Opera on Hangers — the art of wardrobe at Vadstena castle.”
Read Part 2: Heading south toward Visingsö in the next issue of Nordstjernan
The new service centre will focus on configured pumps and agitators for the pulp & paper
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novelist Sally Franson vacationed in Sweden as a minor celebrity
"I can't wait for you to get recognized," my friend Emma said
"I'm not going to get recognized," I said
"You're so going to get recognized," said Emma's sister
"Even if I am recognized," I said
I hadn't returned since completing filming in September
Scratch that: My contract had prohibited me from returning
Turns out what I liked was a spring break-themed victory lap
It was Emma's and Jesse's first trip to Sweden
and I asked my friend Ola to craft a weeklong itinerary
He suggested a picturesque circle around Stockholm filled with quaint villages and shortish drives
"Sweden in March?" asked American friends
the weather is very bad," said Swedish friends
the sky was a cloudless blue and double the temperature in Minneapolis
compliments of Volvo — minor celebrity has its perks — and set off for my cousin Nina's house in Huddinge
"I love you!" a woman said to me in English when we stopped for coffee
"I love her!" she said to the man behind the counter
we took a husrundtur (house tour) with her husband
and their kids before tucking into lamb with potatoes and whipped goat cheese
Though Nina and I had only met in person twice
It got late and then later. We didn't want to go, but we'd booked a night at the Lamp Hotel in Norrköping
a charming postindustrial city two hours southwest of Stockholm
it was once a textile hub before tens of area factories went belly up with globalization
We got to the Lamp so late the staff was gone
given that we had one bed and I was the hot dog to Emma's and Jesse's bun
Our first stop the next morning was the Museum of Work
the museum was all pastels and gently socialist rhetoric
"REST IN PEAS," announced a photography exhibit
It was a bright and cool afternoon, 20 degrees warmer than the Twin Cities. We strolled down the Motola and ate our way through the city for the day's remainder: Lottas for coffee and cardamom buns, Brödernas for wine and smörgåsar, and Pappa Grappa for pizza and more wine before a nightcap at the hotel bar
Hungover the next morning, we opted to take the long, slow way from Norrköping to the medieval town of Vadstena. We wound north to Askersund, then south via Lake Vättern. The sun was setting when we arrived, smudging Vadstena Castle with amber. When it got too dark for photos, we trooped to Borgmestaren for burgers
"I'm not drinking tonight," Jesse declared as we opened the menus
"I know you," our server said to me in English
Thank God we were headed to a renowned spa the next day for some proper relaxation, but not before stopping for provisions at Vadstena Saluhall
"Sorry we're late," we said when we arrived at the family-owned Trosa Stadshotell and Spa two hours later
whisked us straight to the aromatherapy room
We emerged just in time for our dinner reservation
eating ourselves to groaning on baked cod and blood orange carpaccio
which is to Stockholm what the Hamptons is to New York
The village was burned by the Russians in the 18th century
Russia had invaded Ukraine just three weeks earlier
Over lunch at Två Svå Svin (Two Small Pigs)
I ate tiny shrimps on toast and tried not to think about war
"Hey!" said two women while I stood in the line for the bathroom
"'Allt för Sverige!'" shouted a man driving a black Audi as we walked back to the car
"All this attention," I complained to Emma and Jesse
They were kind enough not to roll their eyes
We hustled back to Stockholm just in time to catch the Shout Out Louds, a popular Stockholm band, play at Debaser in Hornstull. Ola, who'd snagged the tickets, met us there. For a global city, Stockholm's tiny: We wound up drinking with the band after the show at the chic bar inside Tjoget
I had a couple of press interviews and a photo shoot the next morning, which I tried to conduct as if I'd slept more than five hours. We had plans to lie low and luxuriate in our room at the Rival
a hotel owned by ABBA's Benny Andersson
but it turned out Ola had planned a surprise hemmafest (house party) in honor of our visit
On Saturday, our last full day in Sweden, Swedes strolled through sunny Södermalm and lined up for gelato at StikkiNikki. While Emma and Jesse explored Gamla Stan
my cousin Nina and I sat on the Rival's balcony and caught up
Our great-great-grandmothers said farewell 135 years ago and never saw each other again
"I'll come with you," she said when I told her I had to get a COVID-19 test to travel
"Bed by 11," I told Emma and Jesse at the testing center
"We can't miss our flight."
The plan was to meet a few friends at Pelikan
I checked my phone at 9:30; things seemed to be winding down
and my friend Charlie was asking if I liked to dance
"Good morning," said the Rival's doorman as he ushered us in at 4
The Rival's breakfast is the only reason we made it back to America
we slipped into our gate with time to spare
I told you you'd be recognized," Emma said at some point on the flight
Sally Franson of Minneapolis is the author of "A Lady's Guide to Selling Out," which Netflix is adapting for film. Instagram: @sallyjf
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the Bulldogs may have locked up a spot in the College Football Playoff
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For travelers yearning for a destination that is not too busy but not too isolated, Sweden has a handful of small towns radiating with the art of simple living
Sweden even has a concept for their own way of living called lagom
not too little” and is the Swedish ideal that happiness in life is all about having balance across all aspects of our lives
Not only will the beautiful landscapes be a breath of fresh air
but the locals' blissful energy will keep visitors at ease
It seems only right to kick off the list with Sigtuna, the oldest town in Sweden. Sigtuna was founded in the 10th century between Uppsala, and Sweden’s capital Stockholm. The town might be quaint
The first coin in Sweden was made in Sigatuna
and it is also the birthplace of the Sigtuna Princess Ingegerd
visitors will pass by old charming churches and houses
but the most fascinating thing is the abundance of runestones
Sigtuna is known for being populated with so many runestones that it is like a treasure hunt
The town is also in the perfect location for outdoor scenery
Embark on a peaceful lakeside stroll while sipping on a cup of coffee or practice yoga in the park
Another option is to check out Klockbacken
a park with mapped-out paths and a barbeque area which is great for taking in the good outdoors
The adorable medieval town of Visby can be discovered on the northwest coast of Gotland, which is known to be the largest island in the Baltic Sea
Visby is a very well preserved town that dates back to the 12th century
Frolicking through the streets of angelic buildings and homes designed between the 12th and 14th centuries will have visitors amazed
There are also many historic church ruins to explore such as St Clemens
Visby is truly a place to stop and smell the roses
as it is a garden hotspot blossoming with roses
Visby also has numerous sandy beaches to feed that beach craving
Visitors can relax on the bathing jetty by the beach walk in central Visby
or a popular spot 20 kilometers south of Visby is Tofta beach
there is a lovely hike only seven kilometers south of town where visitors can get immersed in unreal caves
The diverse range of natural landscapes makes it a hotspot for outdoors enthusiasts to feel one with the earth and away from crowds of people
Visitors will also need to check out Abisko National Park and Vadvetjåkka National Park
This town is famous for being the location for the popular crime series
Ystad is a very walkable town for visitors to easily bounce between restaurants
The charming town centre is laid with cobble stone and shines with vibrant colors and elegant architecture
The perfect spot to aimlessly roam and people watch
Visitors will also see the Ystad Town Hall and St
Mary’s Church in the heart of the town centre
A fascinating attraction to visit is Ales Stenar
visitors can admire the best preserved ship monument in Scandinavia
measuring 67 meters long and 19 meters wide
This unique site in the outline of a boat has a stunning coastal view and is a spot that visitors never knew they needed to add to the bucket list
Kalmar can be found on the southeast coast of Sweden
more specifically in the country of Småland
This town calls all outdoor adventure enthusiasts to explore the beaming beaches
invites all hikers and bikers along 200 kilometers of open country roads and a delightful coastline
Travelers can also catch a direct ferry over to the nearby island of Öland Island
Wandering through the cobblestone streets will grab everyone's attention with the many preserved buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries
with Kalmar Castle being a prominent symbol of the town
Kalmar is also proud to be known for producing sustainable cuisines that are both delicious and sourced locally
Visitors should not leave without trying a Swedish cinnamon bun
The town of Vadstena is one of the world's pilgrimage destinations
which makes it a great spot to step right into earth's natural beauty
There are many connecting hiking trails to and from Vadstena that pass through different medieval church villages
country fields and along the coastline of Lake Vättern
Visitors can stay in town and walk the Vadstena promenade
or hike further distances by traveling down east along the coast on the Borghamn - Vadstena trail
travelers will find themselves bouncing amongst historical castles
Some historical buildings include the Vadstena castle from 1545
which is one of the largest medieval church buildings in Sweden
The clicking of shoes on the cobblestone streets and surroundings of old wooden preserved buildings fills the air with energy of simple living and allows visitors to travel with tranquility
On this navigation channel from Troso is where travelers will be welcomed by beautiful islands and rock formations to lay on and take a snack break
Troso includes stages 53-56 of the 94 total hiking trails of Sörmlandsleden
and the Heritage Trail city walk right in town
Nuzzled in the middle of the West Sweden archipelago on the Bohuslän coast is the little seaside gem of Lysekil
This town is booming with preserved architecture and outdoor adventures
Visitors can take in the charming essence walking on Gamla Strandgatan
the oldest street in Lysekil that leads through Gamlestan
This district is flourishing with old cozy homes
narrow alleys and cobblestoned streets from the 16th century
visitors can make their way to the tip of Lysekil and discover Stångehuvud
Stångehuvud has been a nature reserve since 1982 and is made up of Bohus granite that formed over 920 million years ago
Today it remains as a miraculous granite landscape molded into soft shapes from the crashing waves and gusting winds overtime
After an afternoon picnic on the granite rocks
pack up and head to the 1100 meter long Västerhavspromenade
This Western Sea boardwalk gracefully winds through granite cliffs and offers a front row view to the neverending ocean views
Built around the whimsical Gripsholm Castle
is where the sweet and blissful town of Mariefred can be happily discovered
detailed wood detailing and hidden passages in the Gripsholm Castle that date back over 400 years
After enjoying the charming atmosphere of the city center and strolling the shops and cafes
visitors can hop aboard the historic railway and get a scenic drive of the surrounding landscapes
Cruising by water is also an option by hopping on a boat trip on Lake Mälaren
which offers numerous routes for day trips
visitors can take the Steamer Mariefred boat and experience a cake tour of 60 different cake flavors at the famous cake table at Taxinge Castle
Sweden has so many sweet little towns that make for a mindful and easygoing getaway
one can roam cobblestone streets with a freshly made cinnamon bun in hand
One can also observe historical castles and churches at sunset
you can even kayak through an archipelago and watch birds soar above you
Sweden has just the right combination of charm and adventure that makes traveling feel easy and happily addictive
When Hans Christian Andersen left Copenhagen for a visit to Sweden in 1837, his mind was set on two things: traveling on the Göta Kanal and meeting with Fredrika Bremer
a Swedish writer for whom he had great admiration
That the then obscure writer of fairy tales should be interested in Göta Canal is not surprising
It was the ultimate engineering feat of the day - a system of canals and locks connecting rivers and lakes all the way from Gothenburg in the west to Stockholm in the east
sixty miles of rock and soil had had to be cleared away
It featured fifty-eight locks and thirty-five bridges
the Göta Canal was quickly made obsolete by the railroads
making travel on it something of a 19th-century experience or
similar in ambience to travel with the Orient Express
Many of the hand-operated locks are still in use and the pace has not quickened
traversing the country in one of the three passenger boats run by the Göta Canal Steamship Company takes four days
I thought I would reacquaint myself with the Göta Canal this year
meeting up with the boats in strategic places and catch up with some of the sightseeing
which is part and parcel of these cross country cruises
My first opportunity came early one day in the village of Berg
a mere youngster compared to Juno) was due to arrive from the lake and begin a climb that would last for several hours
would give me the chance to board the vessel and chat
with those passengers who were not off sightseeing - the particular point of interest her being the Vreta Convent Abbey
Sighting the Wilhem Tham in the morning mist brought back strong memories
After Stockholm and some fifty miles of Baltic archipelago
was where the canal truly takes over and begins to exert its special magic
From this point on came the sensation of gliding silently through the heart of the Swedish countryside
then as the canal resumed it meandering ways
where the canal was just wide enough for the boat
leaving you floating alternatively through dense woods - where you could reach out and almost touch the tree branches - and quilts of open fields
as the Wilhem Tham pause between two locks
How familiar it all felt: The same youthful
the same spirit of everyone being one big family
a good portion of that family was now on its way to the nunnery
“Poached Salmon,” and - how very Swedish and yet with an American twist - “Burger of Elkmeat and Lingonberries
with Blackcurrant Jam and Glazed sugar Peas,” Back on deck I noticed that practically all the passengers were gone
looking old and just like the one I borrowed years ago
when the slow-moving vessel caught up with me
shining white from behind verdant foliage; I was all set with a fresh roll of film
Once used by oxen for hauling barges and sailing craft
Idyllically situated on the eastern shore of Lake Vättern
Vadstena evolved around a cluster of 14th-century religious buildings
As I approached its rather spectacular harbor
featuring a Renaissance castle with a medieval-looking moat
It proved to have been chartered by a group of Americans who
each one agreed that this was a great way to really see the country
Referring to her recent encounter with Vadstena
one woman exuberantly exclaimed: “It was wonderful
including two weddings and a confirmation ceremony.”
when Hans Christian Andersen asked for the whereabouts of Fredrika Bremer
I’m sure I’ll meet her.” The next morning he left his cabin at dawn to watch the sunrise over Lake Vänern
Instead he ran into a lady wrapped in a coat and shawl - a new passenger who also wanted to see the sun go up
When to go: The Göta Canal Steamship Company operates mid-May to mid-September
with its long days and midsummer festivities
though the boats tend to be more crowded at that time
July is when the Swedes themselves take their summer vacations
The boats: There are three boats on the Göta Canal Line: M/S Juno
but the cabins on the bridge deck are also quite acceptable
Prices: Prices are comparable to those on a luxury ocean liner but cabins in general much smaller than you’re used to and service and all other aspects of the accommodations
having more in common with the Orient Express on water than anything you’ve ever experienced before
the two-day mini canal cruise will run $1,500 - $2,500
the classic four day cruise $3,400 - $6,200 and the luxury Great Swedish 6-day cruise $5,000 - $8,000 (prices are for two)
These prices were converted from Swedish kronor and do not take into account early booking discounts and are based on the exchange rate in early November 2012
Contacts: The simplest way to find out more about how to meander the Göta Canal, is to visit the general information site http://gotacanal.se or www.stromma.se/en/Gota-Kanal for the actual Rederi AB Göta Kanal we covered here
To speak directly to a representative of the Göta Canal Company in Sweden
an ordinary morning turned into a nightmare
Eight-year-old Mohammed Ammouri was walking to school when he encountered his attacker
Despite Mohammed’s desperate attempt to escape
investigators discovered critical evidence
including Nyqvist’s DNA on the murder weapon and a blood-soaked beanie
Witness accounts and public appeals yielded no breakthroughs
leaving the community grappling with unanswered questions for over a decade
Daniel Nyquist was ultimately sentenced to lifetime psychiatric care in 2020
As per reports he remains at the Regional Clinic in Vadstena under psychiatric treatment
the case was revived thanks to advances in genetic genealogy
Swedish genealogist Peter Sjölund played a pivotal role in solving the mystery
Sjolund constructed an extensive family tree
By comparing genetic data through platforms like FamilyTreeDNA and GEDmatch
he identified two brothers as potential suspects
Sjölund’s meticulous research pointed to Daniel Nyqvist
Authorities obtained a DNA sample from Nyqvist
which matched perfectly with the evidence from the crime scene
Nyqvist confessed to the murders during his initial interrogation
leaving both investigators and the public stunned
Nyqvist’s confession revealed a chilling lack of motive
He described feeling an uncontrollable compulsion to kill two people
a thought he could neither resist nor explain
This shocking revelation highlighted the complex interplay between mental health and violent behavior
Nyqvist was diagnosed with Asperger's syndrome in 2011
He had always found it hard to interact with others and control his emotions
His family didn't realize he had this condition until after the murders
when his mother insisted he see a psychiatrist
This diagnosis shed light on his erratic behavior and isolation leading up to the crime
Nyqvist’s severe psychological disorder became a focal point
The court sentenced him to lifetime psychiatric care rather than imprisonment
he was ordered to pay significant damages to the victims’ families and the Swedish government
Nyqvist remains under psychiatric care at the Regional Clinic in Vadstena
Reports indicate his treatment has been stable
with no psychiatric symptoms in recent years
his release is not anticipated anytime soon
The families of Mohammed Ammouri and Anna-Lena Svensson continue to grieve their loss
while the community of Linkoping grapples with the tragedy’s lasting impact
The case serves as a somber reminder of the importance of early mental health intervention
Netflix’s The Breakthrough sheds light on the intersection of crime
can prevail through relentless pursuit and innovation
The tragic tale of Mohammed and Anna-Lena underscores the need for compassion
and scientific progress in solving cold cases
Keep reading Soap Central for more such pieces
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