Know the name: Chef Ana Roš put Slovenia on the gastronomic map after being voted The World’s Best Female Chef in 2017 and starring in her own episode of Netflix’s cult series the restaurant is in the stunning surroundings of the Soča Valley and has drawn visitors to Slovenia from all over the world Career shift: Roš was destined to be a diplomat having completed a degree in international studies before life brought her to the kitchen of Hiša Franko She taught herself to cook and now specialises in unusual and bold flavour combinations and dishes focusing on produce found within a few kilometres of the restaurant Roš and her team are offering a tasting menu named ’50 Shades of Red’ from garden leaves with a brown butter emulsion quail egg and alpine caviar to cappelletti with black pear and Jerusalem artichoke The chef’s famous corn beignet with fermented cottage cheese as well as the potato cooked in a summary hay crust All in one: Hiša Franko means ‘home of Franko’ in Slovenian: it’s a big house in the countryside where visitors can enjoy aperitivo on a meadow overlooking snowy peaks has an impressive cellar filled with biodynamic wines and there’s even a mixologist lab that produces alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks made with local plants Registration for the 6th FAI Paragliding Accuracy European Championship The event will take place from 16 to 22 September 2018 It is organized by KJP Krokar and Društvo Adrenalin All pilots are invited to register individually using the following form. The organizers ask nations, interested in participating in this event, to register their teams using this registration form Please send the filled form to the following email address: igorerzhen (a) gmail Upon receiving the registration the organizers will send you a confirmation email The maximum number of pilots constituting a National team is 7 in total (with a maximum 5 of one gender). You can register your national team and any additional pilots that might be participating in case of extra spaces become available Local regulations of the event can be downloaded here extends beyond the town of Kobarid and its surroundings to Breginjski kot the gorge of Trnovska soteska – centre of rafting and kayaking exploits – and the wonderful mountain villages under Mt FAI - Fédération Aéronautique Internationale Design by Penceo - LAB two-hour drive from Slovenia’s capital Ljubljana the tiny town of Kobarid was already shut for the evening My travel companion Bianca and I weren’t bothered by Polonka’s kitchen being closed The owners of the guesthouse had already prepared a plate of owner Valter’s aged raw cow’s milk cheese and thinly sliced roast beef for us—the perfect pairing with the bottle of Burja Pinot Noir we picked up from the natural winery on the drive over Kobarid sits in the Soča Valley on the northwestern edge of the country The hand-drawn map we were handed when we checked in sums up the town’s size: Off the central square and church that still sports the bell tower Hemingway mentions in his 1929 classic A Farewell to Arms “More and more people are talking about Slovenian gastronomy,” says Ana who was named the world’s best female chef by The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2017 as we sampled kombucha made in-house by Hiša Franko’s fermentation team they’re starting to become more interested in the country thought: “If Slovenia is now becoming a gastronomic destination why not connect the best gastronomic destinations in the country?”  “We’re building cycling routes that connect villages and places travelers often pass over,” says route-development specialist Alex Crevar but they don’t necessarily contain the personality of the country—you start to feel the real spirit of Slovenia when you cycle through these villages and often-overlooked communities.” The Soča Valley is one of the first stops on the 300-mile the route snakes its way past the mermaid lagoon-colored Soča River: past vineyards and crumbling medieval castles; up steep hills crowned with cliffside villages with climbs reaching up to nearly 1,600 feet An Italian chapel in the mountains of the Soča Valley.Photo: Boris PretnarAs the “green heart” of Europe farm-to-table and foraging are the core of the culture here which is why everything from the wine to the cheese is most likely from the village you’re cycling through “Slovenia is one of the greenest countries in the world—just look around,” Ana told me as her forager returned with finds from that morning including plump porcini mushrooms the size of a plum and fuchsia-colored edible flowers imported ingredients like caviar or foie gras—you can find what you need right here.” Michelin-starred restaurant promotes small “But we also tick a lot of boxes in terms of activities and nature.” where the largest brewery in the country brews the town’s namesake beer as Luka offers us a digestif—homemade spirits and liqueurs crafted from fruit grown in his father’s vegetable garden beneath the restaurant since the roads will never be as packed with cyclists like And that well-deserved glass of Slovenian wine is never more than a short ride away The Danish Home Lighting Trend That Can Improve Your Mental Health In America’s Cities, Saunas Are Becoming the Hottest Social Spot Millie Bobby Brown Shares Her Favorite Paella Recipe—and Details About Her Wedding to Jake Bongiovi A Day-by-Day Guide to Hiking the Legendary Nakasendo Trail in Japan Never miss a Vogue moment and get unlimited digital access for just $2 $1 per month (Kirsten Amor)It’s hard to imagine that Slovenia’s Soča Valley a land of aquamarine river rapids and dense emerald forests waterfalls gently tumbling down steep cliffs and dense I had a hard time imagining that the area once resembled the barren and grey Soča Valley of Ernest Hemingway's novel and in the fall when the rains came the leaves all fell from the chestnut trees and the branches were bare and the trunks black with rain The vineyards were thin and bare-branched too and all the country wet and brown and dead with autumn.” What’s even more difficult to imagine is that the valley was once part of the Isonzo Front Approximately 1.7 million soldiers died or were mutilated for life fighting on the Isonzo Front many losing their lives attempting to navigate the steep mountain slopes fight through whiteout blizzards or traverse unsurpassable canyons "The Soča Valley – and the Bovec area in particular – is unique because of its microclimate," said my Soča Rafting guide Jure Črnič "With the Julian Alps on one side of us the Bovec Basin and the deep canyons and rivers together the weather can change quite suddenly – and with adverse conditions.” the Soča river (known in Italian as the Isonzo river) ran north-south along what was then the border of Austria and Italy opening a new 600km front when Italy declared war on Austria-Hungary on 23 May A total of 12 major battles were fought there between 1915 and 1917 with the Italian side launching 11 of the 12 offensives Despite the Austro-Hungarian Empire’s efforts to refurbish the old mountain pass defensives and fortify the jagged mountains that flanked its side of the river causing the land that is now modern-day Slovenia to be annexed to Italy under the 1920 Treaty of Rapallo many of the Soča Valley’s 300,000 residents were displaced to central Austria-Hungary to avoid the crossfire of the front line while others were forced to relinquish their homes for soldiers’ barracks and for the thousands of soldiers who were transported to the region and died there the region underwent even greater transition and many of the old WWI sites were left to decay in the wilderness Italianization turned into occupation by Nazi German forces and eventually the region was absorbed into Yugoslavia at the end of WWII It wasn’t until 1991 that the Slovenes won independence many Soča Valley residents have turned to adventure and cultural tourism to make a living a 90km-long trail that divides some of the major sites of WWI and the natural highlights of the Soča Valley into five one-day sections which has excellent vantage points of the Koritnica river gorge Despite its strategic importance in defending the Mt Rombon mountain pass during the 1809 invasion of Napoleon the Kluže fortress was outdated by the time WWI began and it was partially destroyed by the Italian forces’ relentless artillery fire The formidable grey stone structure that remains contrasts the peacefulness of the deep gorge and surrounding forests Down the heavily-wooded trail approximately 4km to the southwest, the Walk of Peace opens onto a curved paved road, the trail markers pointing toward the Bovec WWI Military Cemetery: a tree-lined clearing with several small grey mounds poking up between the grasses mass unmarked gravesites were hurriedly created to provide resting places and prevent disease from spreading; Italian and Hungarian soldiers were buried side by side the Italian remains were exhumed and transferred to an Italian military cemetery in Caporetto The remains of more than 600 Austro-Hungarian soldiers were then gathered from surrounding makeshift cemeteries and buried here at Bovec no date: the grave was simply adorned with a carved cross searching for some identification of the person beneath Again and again I zigzagged through the rows of tombstones but none contained any information about the soldiers who had died I was overwhelmed with the injustice that so many would give their lives only for their sacrifice to be forgotten with the disappearance of their identity Continuing about 1km southwest on the trail, I passed the Bovec town limit. Here, a brown and silver sign marked the entrance to Ravelnik, another former Austro-Hungarian artillery fortification. Adorned with rusted military gear such as bullets, helmets and barbed wire, the sign bore the words “Isonzo Front” in several languages. Narrow trenches lined with grey stones lead to a concrete doorway built into the hill. Large, rusted sheets of curved ribbed metal formed a protected roof over the trenches’ open sections. Despite the pockets of green fauna and shafts of sunlight that escaped through the foliage, the site was eerily still, creating an unsettling atmosphere. Today, Ravelnik’s trenches have been restored to their former state, and re-enactments and guided tours have been scheduled to celebrate the centenary of WWI. On the day I was there though, the only sound was the scuttling of my feet as I timidly passed through the concrete doorway, which led to a network of caves and tunnels deep inside the hill. Stumbling through one of the tunnels, I wondered how soldiers could have possibly fought and lived in this pitch black, with bombs exploding overhead and machine guns firing. Rain is frequent in Bovec, which made me think of the quagmire of mud that likely gathered in this cave. Emerging into the sunlight, I headed toward a small wooden shack that once served as the soldier’s first aid station. Inside, there were two bunk beds, a modest collection of food tins and black-and-white photographs of the site during the war. Looking at the images of the soldiers, seeing their camaraderie and snapshots of their daily life, I understood how this place could have felt like home, no matter how short a time they were here. About 3km southwest of Bovec, closer to Kal-Koritnica, the end of the Walk of Peace's first section, the Soča river picks up speed; the fast-moving current and wildflower-lined banks create a striking contrast between the valley’s natural beauty and grim history. 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In season ‘parataxi’ shuttles run up to launch – it takes 45 minutes along a gravelly road and costs €12 to reach the main take-off at Stol Parataxis leave the landing field at around 10am in convoy but it is possible to go later if there is a group of you Not many pilots drive up so hitching is almost impossible a social hub of foreign and local pilots in the summer catch a ride with the same parataxi shuttles to the Kobala launch Shuttles also pick up pilots from the Kobarid campsites every morning [youtube id=”pCJq2JF_-aE” w=”602″] [youtube id=”dckv9s0Ejkw” w=”602″] The landscape varies from forest to pastures and the slopes and peaks provide triggers for technical low flying while cloudbase typically ranges between 2,000-3,000m giving pilots the opportunity to go high and far Conditions are rarely turbulent and the climbs are a mellow 2-4m/s Late July and August is when records are set Stol can give you very nice smooth soaring conditions in the afternoons when there is usually a SW wind Independent pilots will be asked to show an IPPI card stage 4 Check the weather at www.meteo.si and Meteo Blue Alternatively fly to Ljubljana and take a 90-minute coach ride to Kobarid or travel by train via Bled and Most na Soči • Got news? Send it to us at news@xccontent.local Buy and sell gear on Skyads.aero The Slovenian municipality of Kobarid is eyeing an uptake in renewable energy self-supply to ensure… Italy [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)] 0 Kobarid, Slovenia’s westernmost municipality, is looking to gradually achieve energy self-sufficiency with the aim of surpassing the EU’s target of a 32% share of renewable energy sources in gross energy consumption for 2030, mainly through the installation of rooftop solar power plants and heat pumps, according to Mayor Marko Matajurc, Primorske Novice reported This would create savings for both the municipality and its citizens and ensure environmental sustainability which would in turn foster tourism development in the municipality situated in the Julian Alps close to the border with Italy The municipality of Kobarid is now seeking partners to help it in the endeavor, and Slovenian blockchain-powered energy trading platform SunContract with solar power system supplier Sonce Energija could be one of them the municipality and SunContract have signed a non-binding letter of intent to enter cooperation aimed at providing more information to the local community If the municipal council approves SunContract’s offer four solar power plants could be installed at the Breginj and Drežnica elementary schools and the Stanovišče and Podbela stables noting that the municipality also counts on individuals and businesses to install solar power systems SunContract CEO Gregor Novak said that investors can be found if municipalities and individuals cannot finance investments in solar power plants and heat pumps on their own also noting that the cost of installing a solar power system for a residential house is around EUR 14,000 while it is possible to obtain EUR 2,000 in co-financing from the environmental fund A return on the investment can be expected within seven to eight years According to SunContract’s announcement on Medium the letter of intent signed with the municipality of Kobarid is aimed at laying the foundations for long-term cooperation between the two sides The project envisages investments of EUR 1.5 million in the installation of solar power plants to municipal and commercial facilities in the municipality and up to 50 self-sufficient solar power plants for citizens in the next two years The goal of the first phase would be four solar power plants with an estimated total power of 0.5 MWp SunContract is willing to stimulate local investments in renewable energy sources and provide global services that connect producers and consumers of electricity Be the first one to comment on this article 28 April 2025 - Private businesses from the EU and the Western Balkans are invited to express interest in investing in the region 21 April 2025 - Existing geothermal wells alone can enable Turkey to become one of the world's major producers of lithium 18 April 2025 - The capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina has developed a register of air-polluting emissions and an information system to track pollutants 16 April 2025 - Minister of Mining and Energy Dubravka Đedović Handanović started her third term while new Minister of Environmental Protection Sara Pavkov is the cabinet's youngest member © CENTER FOR PROMOTION OF SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT 2008-2020 website developed by ogitive This work, Immediate Response 14 participants visit Battle of Isonzo site in Slovenia, by MSG Opal Vaughn, identified by DVIDS, must comply with the restrictions shown on https://www.dvidshub.net/about/copyright flows bright emerald green for the whole of its length from its source in Slovenia’s north-western Julian Alps to its mouth on Italy’s northern Adriatic coast In some ways a division between Europe and the Balkans this part of the world has inspired writers from Dante to Hemingway During the First World War it ran parallel to Italy’s border with the Austro-Hungarian Empire and became a 600km-long fighting front rafters and canoeists – and home to a unique and endangered species of marble trout I was based in the Slovenian town of Kobarid to explore the region With a bridge over which Napoleon’s soldiers once marched Kobarid (Caporetto in Italian) has had its fair share of action It was the site of such a thrashing of the Italians during the First World War that the phrase ‘Caporetto’ has become synonymous with total defeat Hemingway describes the town in ‘A Farewell to Arms’: ‘a campanile in a valley Hemingway neglects to mention Kobarid’s patchwork of red-tiled roofs the wooden balconies filled with red flowers lining the streets the town’s accolade-winning war museum has adopted the American as one of its heroes rather than local 19th century poet Simon Gregorčič whose poem ‘To the River Soča’ eerily foresees the bloodshed to come but also urges a kind of nationalism capable of spreading an unromantic anti-war message just follow a nearby walking trail to arrive at a solemn ossuary Despite being inaugurated by Mussolini himself the octagonal grey stone monument and little white chapel overlook quiet hillsides It’s a place to contemplate Kobarid’s fate – controlled variously by Austro-Hungarians until Slovenia broke away to become independent some with still-visible trenches and sentry-posts First World War soldiers lived and fought here and it’s estimated that well over a million of them died many freezing or plummeting to their deaths in white-out conditions while attempting – unbelievably – to haul canons up precipitous slopes.  I took a couple of days off from the mountains to regroup I visited the valley’s depths instead: the Tolmin Gorge is the lowest entry point to the Triglav National Park A 2km easy circular path has been carved from the rockface lush with ferns and moss above the clear turquoise waters and white pebble bed of the Soča You will cross the 60m high Devil’s Bridge pass thermal springs and reach Bear’s Head – a rock wedged high between the canyon walls the most exciting moment in the gorge was stepping inside the entry point to Dante’s Cave so-called because early in the 14th century the patriarch Pagano della Torre welcomed poet Dante Alighieri to Tolmin Dante is said to have visited the 41-metre-deep kilometre-long cave complex whose three underground ‘halls’ inspired the Hell of the ‘Divine Comedy’. The cave was later named after the poet remembering Dante’s opening lines: ‘Midway through life’s journey here . .’  They seemed to describe not only some of the walks I’d taken but Slovenia’s troubled journey as a country too These days, the relationship with neighbouring countries like Italy is kinder: back in Kobarid, there was a wood-fired pizzeria called ‘Fedrig’ where I went three times to scoff my new favourite: a thin-based ‘deer sausage’ pizza. But the real culinary highlight of the trip was a blowout tasting menu at ‘Hiša Franko’ a former coaching inn which just this year earned two Michelin stars for its approach to local ingredients and fine dining I decided to tackle a final walk before I left: one that had been staring me in the face my whole stay Krn’s distinctive peak is spottable from many places in the Julian Alps Krn means ‘stump’ or ‘what is left’ in Slovenian while the other side slopes ‘more gently’ away During the Italian era when everything was being renamed ‘Krn’ was mistaken for the word ‘crn’ (black) I checked and checked again at the local information office Krn is marked as an ‘easy’ trail in some guides Would it be suitable for someone with vertigo as if the idea that anyone could find Krn daunting was absurd ‘There is a section with a turn’ – she said – ‘at 1700m or so You have to skirt round a kind of steep drop you’ll be fine.’ Would this be another Dante-esque path that would become hellishly difficult part way The first third of the hike traversed more idyllic pastures dotted with dwarf carline thistles What people who don’t mind heights may not realise is: the fear is not logical As the villages below shrank to miniature toys and Krn (and I) rose above the surrounding terrain the feeling of emptiness around me began to hollow out my back even though my feet were firmly in a summer meadow dragging heavy military equipment up such ascents many of them never to come down alive again My thighs were complaining even before I reached the section I’d been warned about The words ‘steep drop’ were ringing in my ears Eyes glued to the inside edge of the narrow path I just kept putting one boot in front of the other I was hot – the whole hike is on southern slopes and so in summer you are under the sun’s glare – yet I was sweating not with heat or effort I completed the ‘difficult section’ only to be faced with the climb to the summit a path zigzagging up an incline so steep it felt like I was about to fall backwards into nothingness There’s a photo of me sitting by the 2000m marker The panoramic view from the top was epic: the Adriatic shone in the distance; Slovenia’s now peaceful green hills and summits bounded away as far as the eye could see the aquamarine Soča River threaded through it all Even while pulling on a jacket due to the temperature change I fair skipped back down those narrow paths Essential cookies enable basic functions and are necessary for the proper function of the website Statistics cookies collect information anonymously This information helps us to understand how our visitors use our website confirming Slovenia’s place on the map as a culinary destination Slovenia “has never had fine dining in its tradition.” Its cuisine—a mix of Mediterranean and alpine influences—is geared toward people who “need food that is actually their energy for life,” she explains very territorial and very personal.” Among its offerings: roasted pumpkin and duck with elderberries and wild boar with hibiscus flowers and plums Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker The 2023 Michelin awards were handed out in Slovenia and the undisputed gastronomy queen of Slovenia was Ana Roš who was awarded three Michelin stars and one green Michelin as Ana Roš has put the Hiša Franko restaurant and Kobarid the small mountain village where the restaurant is located as a culinary destination on the world gastronomy map you realize that her success story is born from love and passion The story of Ana Roš is almost like a fairy tale Initially it reads like that unassuming girl working in the kitchen eventually becoming the queen of some small country somewhere hidden in Europe The real story of Ana Roš is all about dedication even if it is the path of one less travelled literally the queen of gastronomy of her country that some small country happens to be Slovenia She has almost singlehandedly put Kobarid and Slovenia on the attention of gastronomy circles bringing all her producers and artisanal products to light her former husband was the key to spark the first light Her fate changes when she meets wine expert Valter Kramar As a bride arriving at her husband's family's restaurant she finds herself first as a waitress and then apprenticing in the kitchen as well as having contemporary ballet training this was not the career choice expected from her Raising a family with kids in a small mountain village and swinging a ladle in a family restaurant seemed to go against her ideal and especially in opposition to the dreams of her parents who wished to see her as an accomplished diplomat eventually changing her destiny and also the fate of Hiša Franko making a family restaurant a world renowned culinary destination taking the right step at the right time - these are all typical Ana Roš traits She is not resentful about the future career as a diplomat she gave up for the sake of the kitchen and formerly she never looked back when she decided to stop racing the Winter Olympics and I was on a path where there was no room for creativity.” It was in the kitchen that she practiced the discipline that was the foundation of both professions she did not sustain and it was in the kitchen that she discovered her dormant creativity Her first days in the kitchen were spent working hard endless learning and non-stop experimenting She slowly but assertively developed his own unique style tirelessly climbing her way up and becoming one of the most important chefs in the world as a female chef in an unknown spot in the middle of nowhere Behind this incredible success is determination and discipline In the Chef's Table series released in 2017 her first statement was “Love is essential What started the whole international recognition was when Ana Roš was awarded as the world's best female chef in 2017 by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants This was continued with numerous other awards In 2022 she was ranked in ninth place on the Best Chef Awards list as the only woman in the top 10 She has received the “The Best Chef Pristine Award” for her utmost respect for and use of the highest quality local produce at a terroir-based restaurant from the same organization She is incredibly creative in the main kitchen using unimaginable techniques and creating unlikely flavor combinations given to chefs who use science in creativity at the Barcelona Science & Cooking World Congress as I had the opportunity to witness the moment where I was a delegate for Türkiye at the congress I must say I was lucky to experience Ana’s creations three times where she participated in four pop-up dinners; once in Bilbao Nerua restaurant with chef Josean Alija on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of Guggenheim Museum Petersburg with the talented chef Igor Grishechkin and once with our own dear chef Maksut Aşkar but I have never stepped foot in her own culinary castle Though I have not been to her own territory how she keeps her team close to her like family The team spirit she has created in this journey is very important one of the architects of Hiša Franko's success her right-hand assistant is the pillar of the team and she was one of the quickest in adding the third star tattooed on her ankle This was followed by 17 members of the team who proudly wear three red Michelin stars and one green star tattooed on their arms or even wearing the tattoo as if like a series of rings on their fingers that is a real demonstration of team spirit Ana Roš says that the food she creates reflects a bit of her own crazy personality but the most important inspiration comes from the earth and the changing seasons sourcing all ingredients from local producers in season without compromise and making all producers in the region important economic and social partners have earned her the Green Star award there is also a spirit of solidarity that comes from being in a small town in the heart of nature the solidarity model they exhibited during COVID-19 will soon be published as a case study by Harvard University students Because of her work chef Ana Roš was named the ambassador of gastronomic tourism at the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) Starting as a self-taught cook she became a celebrity chef and the ultimate spokeswoman of Slovenian gastronomy She may not have pursued her diplomatic career instead she discovered her inner talent and creativity in the kitchen but her inner diplomat reemerged and surfaced once again making her a gastro-diplomat creating heartfelt bonds through food beyond borders Aylin Öney Tan Israel carried out airstrikes in Yemen a day after Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu threatened retaliation over a missile fired by Yemeni Houthis that landed near Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport Private company TBNG has opened a third well and started natural gas production in the northwestern province of Tekirdağ Jose Mourinho’s Fenerbahçe was held to a 3-3 draw by Kayserispor at home on March 20 night leaving archrival Galatasaray a huge boost in its bid to win a third consecutive Turkish Süper Lig title the 19th stage of the Giro d’Italia 2022 sets off the river that looks like a string of Caribbean Sea a green-blue trail running through picture-postcard canyons the course takes in the gruelling climb to Kolovrat and reaches the finish at the Sanctuary of Castelmonte A perfect script and a perfect setting for a day of great cycling which gave birth to champions such as Primoz Roglic with a territory that concentrates sea and Alps in a handkerchief of square kilometres and a strong vocation for sustainability it is the official sponsor of the Maglia Pistacchio awarded to the winner of the Mixed Regularity Trial Classification of the Giro-E the parallel competition to the Corsa Rosa (it takes place on the same days on the same course) dedicated to pedal-assisted racing bikes But you don’t have to be a professional cyclist or performance maniac to enjoy the Soča Valley the green lung just a stone’s throw from Italy it is for all cycling enthusiasts: even those who prefer mountain biking those who want to combine cycling with a cultural or gastronomic experience an invitation to peace in the name of historical memory Kobarid also boasts a gastronomic circle of top-notch restaurants which recently entered the list of the 50 best in the world The Slovenia Green Gourmet Route could only pass through here which makes numerous gourmet stops its strong point a tour that takes you on a discovery of excellent wines artisan specialties and sophisticated menus because the route passes no fewer than six Michelin-starred restaurants Where have you heard that name before? Chef Ana Roš put Slovenia on the gastronomic map after being voted The World’s Best Female Chef in 2017 and starring in her own episode of Netflix’s cult series the restaurant is located in the stunning surrounds of the Soča Valley and has drawn visitors to Slovenia from all over the world About the chef: Roš was destined to be a diplomat having completed a degree in international diplomatic studies before life brought her to the kitchen of Hiša Franko in the Soča Valley She taught herself to cook and now specialises in intricately made fresh pasta and dishes that focus on produce from within a few kilometres of Hiša Franko On the menu: Roš and her team offer a tasting menu named ‘Reincarnation’ based on seasonal produce which may start with the restaurant’s cauliflower with black truffle and creamy egg The rest of the menu might include anything from the chef’s pasta filled with apricots in pork broth to Timur pepper choux with white barley butter and hay praline All in one: Hiša Franko is actually a big house in the countryside where Roš runs not only the restaurant but also ages Tolminc cheese and runs a wine bar during the summer months Local beer and t-shirts made from ecological material (designed by Slovenian artist Mateja Benedetti) are available at the on-site shop the restaurant is located in the stunning surroundings of the Soča Valley and has drawn visitors to Slovenia from all over the world having completed a degree in international studies before life brought her to the kitchen of Hiša Franko in the Soča Valley Roš and her team are offering a special celebratory tasting menu named ’50 Shades of Life’ to mark the occasion of the restaurant’s 50-year anniversary from white asparagus with smoked egg dip and walnut to two-day-aged trout cooked on the barbecue and served with brown butter fish sauce and horseradish All in one: Hiša Franko is actually a big house in the countryside where Roš not only runs the restaurant This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks The action you just performed triggered the security solution There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page We bump into Leon on a forested hillside overlooking the Slovenian town of Kobarid It is the start of our bike ride and we are fiddling with saddle positions and checking tyre pressures when he shows up From the hilltop behind the fortifications the land dips through intricate valleys filled with vineyards and wooded ridges all the way to Trieste and the gleaming Adriatic Sea To our left are limestone ridges that run into the forests of Croatia a coastline that disappears in a haze above which rise the jagged spires of the Italian Dolomites Behind us stand the snow-capped Julian Alps and Austria “My family came from one village down there – for many generations However …” He holds up four fingers and counts them off myself in Yugoslavia and my son in Slovenia.” It is the perfect reminder that our 200km route down to the coast along the Slovenia-Italy border is a route whose beauty comes with a chequered past is going to be a whistlestop tour of European culture a tour made more poignant by recent events Kevin Rushby stopping off in Štanjel Photograph: Kevin RushbyEager to get started we jump on our bikes and set off down the hill; a long delightful swoop through ancient forests and tranquil villages is dotted with fallen pine cones and sweet chestnuts while the tough alpine villages are barricaded behind substantial the houses soon take on a softer Mediterranean look Vines shade the patios and the trees are full of persimmons and lemons Over the next three days we pass antique villages with ruined castles stopping everywhere to sample a delicious array of local delicacies we freewheel down the culinary strata: from alpine cheeses to cherries crossing a line made invisible by the magic of the European Union but when we are about to pass the empty customs post between Gorizia and Nova Gorica There is a railway bridge immediately ahead of us I was a nine-year-old kid with meningitis and my bed was on the top floor overlooking this border post.” Jan heard gunfire and looking out of his bedroom window saw tanks and soldiers moving around the customs post where we now stood “The Slovenian pro-independence forces were fighting the Yugoslav national army right there on the border with Italy.” The Julian Alps at Kobarid Photograph: Yuliia Burlachenko/AlamyIn fact what he then witnessed was the decisive battle of Slovenia’s 10-day war for independence Two Russian-built T-55 tanks were knocked out and three others captured It was a war in miniature by modern standards thoroughly enjoying our superhuman ability to weave between Italy and Slovenia stitching together what scheming warlords have spent centuries pushing apart the towns a mix of ancient architecture with stylish modern flourishes We stop and chat with an older man out picking mushrooms and drop in at a stonemason’s yard and an organic winery the proud owner of which shows us his awe-inspiring cellar: three levels cut down into the karstic limestone and filled with 2,000-litre barrels of his best wines To avoid causing offence we agree to sit down and eat generous portions of pršut and wash it down with several samples of his wines a Michelin-starred restaurant also in Kobarid that also uses only local produce we pedal and freewheel down through all the culinary strata: from the high alpine cheeses down through cherries “We just have a great climate for growing excellent ingredients,” says Petra wealthy Italians would motor up here from Trieste to eat.” Tartini Square Photograph: Getty ImagesThat civilised tradition We only learned in the 1960s that he had died in Dachau concentration camp He’d been conscripted as slave labour on a Bavarian farm.” Looking out on the tranquil hills around the village it’s hard to imagine that cruelty and violence a long descent through persimmon groves brings us to our final culinary zone: seafood We park the bikes and eat fish on the harbour wall in Izola is merely the hors d’oeuvres for our final destination a colourful labyrinth of shady alleyways and courtyards Journey’s end in Piran’s May Day Square Photograph: Kevin RushbyOver the centuries preserving the air of a coastal port that rubs along with everyone In the main square is a statue of Giuseppe Tartini the violinist who was said to have sold his soul to Satan in return for the Sonata in G minor than all those devilish empires that have tramped through here dragging along their tedious divisions of barbed wire and borders sink cold beer and I vow never to leave Piran but I hope to rectify this mistake before too long she also starred in an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table and was the first woman to join the exclusive Cook It Raw chef community When the restaurant lost its head chef a few years later she took lessons with established Slovenian chefs hired foragers to source oft-overlooked ingredients from the dense forests worked with local cheesemongers—and eventually developed her own style of Slovenian cuisine “Kobarid and the Soča Valley are separated from the rest of Slovenia by a high mountain range,” says Roš “People still cook traditional food and they use local produce There are traditional elements and produce Slovenia is home to a versatile food scene that takes a few cues from its neighbors: Italy to the west the six- or 11-course dinner changes every month recently including a bone marrow ravioli with sheep cottage cheese and prosciutto broth; beef tongue with celeriac and scallops; and a Soča River trout with summer salad the ambitious chef shares her insight on where to experience Slovenia’s best fine dining and alfresco country lunches at local vineyards Strelec RestaurantIn a tower of Ljubljana Castle on a green hilltop overlooking the old quarter of the capital Strelec Restaurant enjoys 360-degree city views and creative cuisine from chef Igor Jagodic featuring the likes of beef tongue and boiled oxtail “This place has become a hot spot for foodies in Ljubljana,” Roš says “Igor is very skilled and respects Slovenian traditions It is officially the best restaurant in Ljubljana [based on the Slovenia Restaurant Awards].” Monstera BistroAnother favorite in the capital French-inspired bistro Monstera Bistro (named after the flowering houseplant) takes a contemporary approach to casual dining expect laid-back lunches: The menu changes weekly but could include baby cuttlefish and minty pea cream; grilled John Dory with smoked spring potatoes and black-truffle vinaigrette; and an apple mousse topped with crunchy granola and pumpkin-oil ice cream—all prepared with an aim for zero waste Biodynamic Slovenian wines and housemade Lila Misa craft beer “It’s super young and fresh with the creative Bine Volčič behind the stoves,” Roš says “Dishes such as black pudding with langoustines or pig’s nose are challenging but Gostilna GricThe definition of fairy-tale charm Gostilna Gric resides in an enchanting white cottage surrounded by dense woods and rolling hills in Horjul But don’t be fooled by its rural locale—the restaurant is pushing Slovenian cuisine with edgy and he dresses up his tuna with local Slovenian ants.” Pri LojzetuTucked away in the lush Vipava Valley a wine region about an hour southwest of the capital of Ljubljana Pri Lojzetu is housed inside the grand Zemono Manor the restaurant is now helmed by fourth-generation chef Tomaž Kavčič who combines fresh ingredients with innovative techniques to continue the tradition of excellent gastronomy “The restaurant serves theatrical Mediterranean cuisine—it’s one those spots where people get married and come to celebrate,” Roš says and you can understand her love for the place Restavracija PikolHugging the Italian border in Nova Gorica Pikol is a beautiful family-run eatery that specializes in seafood is prepared tableside and seasoned with local honey and pepper (not just one pepper Even the arrival experience is memorable—to reach the restaurant and a great Mediterranean cuisine,” Roš says “It is a story of a family who has dedicated their lives to cook from the sea.” Gostilna SkaručnaIn the central countryside Gostilna Skaručna was originally opened by Slavko Žagar took over about 15 years ago and has become known in the Slovenian culinary community for his eccentric personality and dedication to seasonal ingredients “It’s a crazy father and even more crazy son,” Roš says “They drive an old yellow Zastava 750 Fičo [a mini Serbian car] through the Slovenian countryside to source the best of produce and play unusual music as you dine.” The rustic restaurant’s atmosphere reflects the chef’s big personality and paper mustaches circulating for photo ops (a tribute to Slavko Sr.) Restavracija Topli ValA charming alfresco address in heart of Kobarid’s town square Restavracija Topli Val inside Hotel Hvala comes alive on spring and summer evenings when people spill out onto the wooden deck to enjoy crisp Slovenian white wines and fresh mountain air “This is my favorite hideaway for casual food in Kobarid,” Roš says The best anti-depressive pasta in the world!” Ana’s choice savoring a rich shellfish pasta at least once a week and Tolmin cheese (from a nearby town) also come highly recommended Hiša DenkIn the far east of Slovenia Hiša Denk is home to sleek Scandinavian interiors and ultramodern woodwork with custom-designed furniture and natural light pouring through enormous walls of windows the restaurant is nestled between two major wine regions—Austria’s Stryia and Slovenia’s Mariborsko Pohorje—offering a unique opportunity to sample local wines the representatives of the Kobarid museum awarded those who contributed the most to the operation of the institution On this occasion they especially thanked the General Police Directorate since this year the latter enriched the museum collection with new exhibits The special award of the Kobarid museum was in the name of the General Police Directorate taken by Franc Sablič on 26 August 2009 the Slovenian Police donated 22 pieces of weapons of historical value to the Kobarid museum which were seized or found by police officers during their work More about this contribution: The Slovenian Police donated weapons from the 1st World War to the Kobarid Museum Head of the Forensic Science Centre Franc Sablič with the award the museum workers also opened an exhibit with entitled ?There on High Peaks of the Mountains Director of the Military-Historical Museum and Institute from Budapest; the speaker of honour was the Minister for Culture