The Sunčana (Sunny) Vipava project envisages installing solar power plants with a combined capacity of 20 MW
Slovenia
Vladimir Spasić
0
The Sunčana (Sunny) Vipava project envisages installing solar power plants with a total capacity of 20 MW along highways
The initiative is seen as a strategic move towards achieving greater energy independence
and promoting sustainable development through advanced photovoltaic solutions
and is part of the Holding Slovenske Elektrarne (HSE) group
SENG has identified several potential sites for harnessing solar energy
The Vipava municipality intends to establish business zones in the vicinity of the future solar plants
The primary objective for all parties involved in the agreement is to maximize the utilization of solar potential
in conjunction with modern technologies such as hydrogen
The estimated potential at these sites is substantial
and it is currently financially viable to install solar panels with a total capacity of 20 MW
the Municipality of Vipava plans to develop business zones in the vicinity of the future photovoltaic plants
SENG and DARS have had a longstanding collaboration, initiated in July 2023
when the two state-owned companies agreed to develop solar power plants next to highways and signed a contract to build the first one in the southern region of Primorska
SENG stressed the Sunčana Vipava project is one of its several green initiatives
The company plans to open its largest solar power plant at Kanalski Vrh before summer
located near the Avče pumped storage hydropower plant
The official opening of the first phase is scheduled for early June
The involvement of the Ministry of Defense of the Republic of Slovenia (MORS) and Slovenian Armed Forces in energy projects is not a surprise
In April 2023, a public-private partnership was initiated to build photovoltaic plants at the Edvard Peperko military barracks in Slovenia’s capital, Ljubljana. A year later, MORS launched the Defense Resilience Hub Network in Europe (RESHUB) project
which envisages establishing self-sufficient energy hubs
In addition to highways and military barracks, Slovenia plans to install solar panels along railways
demonstrating its commitment to placing solar energy facilities in degraded or underutilized locations
A cooperation agreement for this project was signed by Vipava Mayor Anton Lavrenčič
Slovenian Minister of Defense Borut Sajovic
Gorjan explained that SENG’s responsibilities include preparing project and investment documentation for the installation and construction of solar power plants at the Mlake military training ground
along military infrastructure and the highway
and in other locations within the Municipality of Vipava
the locations for energy facilities in the Vipava region present excellent opportunities for the multifunctional use of space
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02 May 2025 - The project is located in Constanța county
recognized for its superior yields in green energy production
02 May 2025 - The Sunčana (Sunny) Vipava project envisages installing solar power plants with a combined capacity of 20 MW
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30 April 2025 - OMV put into operation its 10 MW green hydrogen plant at the Schwechat refinery
30 April 2025 - It is the second time this year that MVM contracted gas-fueled and hydrogen-ready power plants at sites of former fossil fuel facilities
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top-quality wineries or hiking routes backdropped by majestic mountains
this Slovenian region makes for an ideal road trip
The Vipava Valley stretches across the southwest corner of Slovenia
sandwiched between the lush Trnovo Forest Plateau and the rocky plateau of the Karst region
It’s blessed with good soil and a perfect climate for winemaking
with a patchwork of vineyards studded with small historic towns and castles
all of which are endlessly rewarding places to explore and while away time
For those who prefer something a bit more active
the region’s surrounding mountains are crisscrossed by superb hiking trails for all capabilities
passing through numerous mountains (some of which are roughly 1000m high)
There’s a reason locals nickname it Paradise Valley — boutique
it’s all that’s best about Slovenia (and there’s an awful lot to like) distilled into one place
The central premise of Nova Gorica’s Capital of Culture bid was the vision of a cross-border city
with Nova Gorica and Gorizia in Italy united by their shared history
despite their separation by political boundaries
admiring postwar architecture and dipping into one of the charming bars and restaurants for dinner or to sample the region’s much-loved wine
head down the Vipava Valley and base yourself either in the town of Ajdovščina or the tiny village of Vipavski Križ
a cluster of stone houses wrapped within medieval walls
One of the best things about the Vipava Valley is just how easy it is to combine the best outdoor activities — be it hiking
rock climbing or paragliding — with enjoying great food
The classic route to Nanos has two variants — one easy
involving some scrambling with the aid of fixed steel cables and a good head for heights
housed in a beautifully restored 17th-century hilltop mansion
with head chef Tomaž Kavčič creating a succession of inventive dishes that have a playful
in an atmosphere that remains wonderfully warm and relaxed
home to an outstanding collection of works by Veno Pilon
the greatest Slovenian artist of the 20th century
To find out more, visit vipavskadolina.si
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but there’s a whole bevy of well-established wines in Slovenia
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But what about other countries in what was once known as the Eastern bloc
the Czech Republic and Poland all have rich winemaking histories – and they’re also responsible for some of the most delicious wines I’ve tasted all year
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these wines are made in small quantities and come at prices that reflect that
although Slovenia has good (mostly white) wines across a broad spectrum of price points – even Lidl has dabbled in the past
The Waitrose number in today’s pick is a blend of two international grapes
both of which can be a bit dull when they fly solo and under the £10 mark
Slovenia borders the north-east Italian region of Friuli-Venezia
and the two regions’ wines have some common ground
among them the friulano grape (or sauvignonasse)
The Krasno in today’s pick is well worth a try – for Slovenia
but is still fresh – and would pair well with spice or creamy pastas or gratins as the nights start drawing in
with their orchestras of spices and seasonings
benefit from being paired with a wine that also sings a lot of notes
At £20 and £16, however, neither of them comes cheap, although London-based Newcomer Wines produced the Kollektiv specifically in an effort to make an affordable “house” wine with sustainable credentials
It’s motivating Štajerska growers to convert to organic farming by giving them better prices for their wine than if they’d stuck to conventional practices
“If we can convert land and produce great wine
then there is ‘value’,” says Newcomers’ Peter Honegger
give the “serious” Czech and Slovakian pinot noirs and chardonnays a try
Majerikova says: “Then the pricing becomes very good value indeed.”
fun Slovenian blend of two big-ticket grapes that will make friends easily with whatever’s on the table
Klet Brda ‘Krasno’ Sauvignonasse 2021, Goriška Brda Majestic £9.99
14.5% A lively Slovenian friulano with pear and tarragon notes
Štajerska Kollektiv White 2021 £16 Newcomer Wines
aromatic Slovenian field blend that’s great for both palate and planet
Krasna Hora La Blanca 2023 £20 Basket Press Wines
balanced Czech field blend that’s great with spicy food
Burja Zelen Vipava White 2022 £24 Les Caves de Pyrene
12.5% A knockout indigenous single-varietal from Slovenia – treat yourself
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Tucked away between the towering Julian Alps and the Adriatic coast, Slovenia’s bucolic western winelands are often overlooked by visitors
this is a region rich in appeal and charm – from boutique wine tasting and gastronomic surprises to adrenaline-fuelled adventures
Edged by great karst mountains, their limestone rocks peeking out above the forests, the Vipava Valley may only be a short hop from the capital Ljubljana
but it feels a million miles from the city
Grape-heavy rows of vines spread out across the valley floor
interrupted now and again by terracotta-topped hamlets
their roofs weighed down with rocks to save the tiles from the ferocious bora wind that rattles through the valley in winter
Verdant gorges and white-grey rock stacks litter the limestone Karst area to the south
micro-region Goriška Brda’s hills roll deeper
their brows adorned with gothic stone towers that call to mind picture-perfect Tuscan landscapes – but without the crowds
Despite the peaceful surrounds, a 90-minute drive from here in any direction will take you places: laid-back Ljubljana to the east, Adriatic beauty Piran to the south, glamorous Venice to the west and the craggy, mountainous playground of the Julian Alps to the north
Most vineyards in the Primorska wine region (which encompasses Vipava
Slovenian winemakers claim that’s because they want to keep it all for themselves – and they’re probably only half joking
because the local varietals produced in Primorska are currently experiencing a surge in popularity
You won’t go far before encountering the oxblood-red Teran
made from Refosco grapes grown in the Karst area in the region’s south
which owes its fiery flavour and wild berry aroma to mineral-heavy limestone soil and salty Mediterranean air
the indigenous Zelen grape thrives in the windy conditions of the Vipava Valley
Many of Primoska’s younger generation of winemakers embrace experimental techniques – from organic and pump-free gravitational winemaking to eschewing oak barrels in favour of concrete egg-shaped tanks
which are said to encourage continuous flow of the liquid as it ferments and ages
but that doesn’t hold them back: their diminutive nature is fast becoming one of the region’s strongest aces
as the appetite for boutique wines and localism grows
attracting visitors who want to sample wines in the region they’ve been made
it’s hard not to be infected by the enthusiasm of eccentric winemaker Primoz Lavrenčič as he shows guests around his futuristic-looking cellars and sets up impromptu tastings among the barrels
One of the best ways to explore the region – while sampling its fruits – is on two wheels. Local company Wajdusna organise cycling tours in the region
following the gravel paths and single-track roads that wind their way between grapevines from village to village
Wedged between Italy to the west and Austria to the north
it’s not surprising that the cuisine of western Slovenia is heavily influenced by its neighbours: pasta
gnocchi and strudel are all local specialities
often to be found on restaurant menus and in home cooking
It places great emphasis on producing regional cuisine using fresh
from the humblest of cafes to the country’s top-end restaurants
like the celebrated Hiša Franko restaurant in northwestern Kobarid
who was named the world’s best female chef in 2017
cured sausage and nutty cheeses served up in wine cellars and restaurants are always produced locally
Cured meat like pršut owes its flavours to the bora wind that dries it; the high-altitude Tolminc cheese
To experience some of the region’s best ingredients, hunt out Majerija restaurant
close to the tiny village of Slap in the Vipava Valley
the tasting menu champions local produce – from homemade salami with herb ricotta and Vipava mlinci (a type of flatbread) to cherry cake with cinnamon and thyme plucked from the restaurant’s herb garden
The Vipava Valley’s bora wind does more than knock tiles from roofs and ripen the grapes
It also carries paragliders high above the valley floor from the limestone peaks
affording them panoramic views of the winelands below
The region offers plenty more outdoor activities for the adventurous
Hikers and cyclists will find trails aplenty amongst beautiful surroundings
and a remarkable lack of traffic to bother them
The steep walls and gorges surrounding the valley provide incredible rock faces for climbers to tackle
with the promise of fantastic views from the top – to the Adriatic
Jessica Cole travelled to Slovenia with support from the Slovenian Tourism Board. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
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The MICHELIN Guide continues the trip through Slovenia to discover its chefs and their tasteful cuisine
Following the launch of the MICHELIN Guide Slovenia in September 2024
we take a closer look at Gostilna Pri Lojzetu in Vipava
Situated on a small hill just outside Vipava, Gostilna Pri Lojzetu is an elegant restaurant housed in an attractive old residence
A charming dining room with a fireplace acts as the backdrop for excellent cuisine
featuring traditionally influenced dishes alongside more creative and experimental fare
Tomaž Kavčič is one of the most known chefs in Slovenia and his cuisine represents well the transition between traditions and modernity
A very passionate sommelier will guide trough the interesting wine list where Vipava Valley is the most represented
We suggest you try wines from the Burja estate
one of the most iconic producer of the area
The MICHELIN Guide Slovenia: Uroš Štefelin, chef at Hiša Linhart
in that area dotted with castles and devoted to spa treatments
which lies in the northeast and borders Austria
Who knew brisket and biscuits could be so good
Whether you’re grabbing a quick bite in Tallinn or making a day of it on Muhu Island
the Michelin Inspectors have got you covered when it comes to great value and enjoyable places to eat
Discover which dishes our MICHELIN inspectors loved in this year’s selection
From listening bars to neighbourhood restaurants
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Whether it’s your first time in a fine dining restaurant or your fiftieth
these tips from our seasoned MICHELIN Guide Inspectors will help you get it right — your way
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Croatia is a place where tradition (including the culinary tradition) is still very much alive
As you stroll down the long tree-lined avenue leading to the Baroque Novo Celje palace
you know that the dining experience awaiting you will be very special indeed
the chef and restaurateur behind MICHELIN-Starred Row on 5 and a whole lot more shares his top London recommendations
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surrounded by the Fruška Gora hills in the province of Vojvodina and in a region that extends on either side of the River Danube
is a very special place that has a focus on food and wine
Chef Martin Gimenez Castro has found his new home and career much further north
where he treats his guests to the finest seafood produce
The MICHELIN Guide Czechia will expand beyond Prague to cover the entire country
unveiling the best MICHELIN restaurants in Czechia
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Situated on a small hill just outside Vipava, Gostilna Pri Lojzetu is an elegant restaurant housed in an attractive old residence
Toma\u017e Kav\u010di\u010d is one of the most known chefs in Slovenia and his cuisine represents well the transition between traditions and modernity
A very passionate sommelier will guide trough the interesting wine list where Vipava Valley is the most represented
The MICHELIN Guide Slovenia: Uro\u0161 \u0160tefelin, chef at Hi\u0161a Linhart
enabling most of the Primorska region to rejoin its mother nation under what was then the Yugoslav Federation after suffering for a long time under fascism
This year's celebration was held under the title "Moja pesem je himna srca" ("My poem is the anthem of the heart")
like the Adriatic without the song of the starlings
That is why I believe that today is not only a holiday for the people of Primorska
but a holiday for the whole of Slovenia," said Prime Minister Golob in his opening remarks
He added that the poet and priest Simon Gregorčič was quite clairvoyant in his poem "Soči" ("To the Soča River")
Only a few decades later his prophecy came true
"He had predicted the agony of the last century
It left indelible traces of violence and oppression in our people
immense desire for freedom and rebellion against the ideology of hatred," the Prime Minister said
"TIGR was among the first organisations to prove to the world that fear can be countered with courage
After two years of national liberation struggle
Even after Primorska’s return to its motherland
more than a hundred thousand Slovenians remained on the other side of the border
we have been living together in a wider community
and the Prime Minister expressed the hope that through this
I would like to say that Slovenia remains your motherland
Your struggle for identity and language will always be etched in our hearts and in our collective memory," he said to the compatriots living on the other side of the border
"History holds a series of timeless lessons
including how the ideology of hatred and intolerance has never brought peace or freedom to anyone
both to those who oppressed and those who were oppressed," he added
He went on to highlight that Slovenia is a safe country today
Prime Minister Golob warned that hate speech
lies and manipulation do not kill our bodies
"It is our responsibility to reject them and safeguard our common values – the values of coexistence and freedom
The strength of a nation never comes from division
the Prime Minister also highlighted the importance of unity
It was only in Primorska that both the Slovenian clergy and the fighters combating under the red star were united in their belief in freedom
"And only this unity can lead us to continue to fulfil great ambitions and goals in the future," he said
He added that all this also requires individual courage
"It is the courage that each one of us must muster to do the right thing at the right time," said Prime Minister Golob
He added that today's challenges are certainly complex
He went on to talk about one of the major challenges facing Slovenia – how to preserve our public health system
which is the envy of practically the whole world
How to make sure that the public health system will not only remain in the future
The Prime Minister also said that he really appreciated Slovenian doctors
"Our strength is not that we are all the same
but that despite our differences we listen to each other and look for common solutions
I believe that each of us faces challenges
He added that he is determined that we work together to ensure that our nation continues to prosper
"Vstala Primorska!" (Primorska Has Risen!)
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The first wines we try are international varieties: a blend of Merlot and Cabernet, a Chardonnay. As much as I want to impress Mitja and drone on about tasting the Vipava terroir, I can’t actually tell what gives them a sense of place. Then lastly he pours the Sutor White, a blend of the local grapes, Rebula and Malvazija. I swish the wine around in my mouth and swallow this time. Bracing, I think. Like a strong, cold wind blowing across my face.
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As travel to Slovenia becomes possible again, Helen Coffey recalls taking on the Vipava triathlon: wine tasting
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Edging my way down the slope towards a giant hole in the limestone rock face
through which the Vipava Valley looks back in all its verdant loveliness
I stop and sigh with something akin to longing
A 15-minute walk brought us to Otlisko okno
a naturally occurring phenomenon atop the Trnovo Forest plateau that
was created by the devil’s horn when he tripped and fell down the mountain
It’s a sublime example of why this idyllic region of Slovenia, 50 minutes from the capital Ljubljana
Although the real treat is the bizarre dearth of visitors at an attraction that
would be teeming with camera-toting travellers
all queueing to get their turn at a selfie with the elegant
comments that “it’s busy today” – I crane my neck
all of whom leave pretty sharpish after we arrive to stare hungrily at the lush valley from on high
Slovenia as a whole has experienced a huge upsurge in tourism over the last five years: it’s gone from somewhere relatively unknown to a perfectly legitimate destination for a city break (Ljubljana)
ski holiday (Kranjska Gora) or hiking trip (just about everywhere)
Bordered by four neighbouring countries – Italy
Hungary and Austria – and boasting its own tiny enclave of coastline on the Adriatic Sea – complete with Venetian-style architecture – this pocket-sized nation is incredibly diverse
in terms of cultural influences as well as climate and terrain
The Vipava Valley, voted one of Lonely Planet’s top regions in 2018
has its own weird yet wonderful microclimate – it’s like a miniature Mediterranean outpost
lazy days that are sometimes 10 degrees warmer than if you head just 20 minutes further north
it makes for a region capable of producing some fabulous wines
as I discover when we stop off at Tourist Farm Lisjak in the tiny village of Zalosce
This family vineyard and simple restaurant serve up dishes typical of the area – prosciutto-wrapped asparagus
courgette carpaccio dressed in rich balsamic
gnocchi with wild garlic pesto – along with hand-picked wines from its 16-strong collection for “tasting” (I don’t make much use of the spittoon)
Zelen and pinela are two of the most popular local wine varieties: crisp and light
they perfectly accompany the spin on Italianate grub (Trieste is just 50 minutes away)
I’m then taken down to the wine cellar where owner Peter Lisjak is just as keen to show off his best vintages as I am to sample them
The tastiest is the latest crack at a dessert wine; it’s gloriously amber
the skins having been left on during part of the fermentation process
“It’s not ready yet,” Peter responds in answer to my question of whether I can buy a bottle (or six)
Guide Jani reveals that wine tasting is part of the unofficial Vipava Valley triathlon: “wine tasting
as I sway up the stairs to tackle the next element – the walk up to the aforementioned natural window
overtaking cyclists sweating under the afternoon sun who I declare to be
bright flashes of yellow and purple flowers winking out from the abundance of chlorophyll green that covers the landscape thanks to Slovenia’s generous annual rainfall
Cows seem more numerous than people in these parts
tinkling the bronze bells tied about their necks as they graze
There’s no paragliding on the agenda for today
We head back down into the valley to Ajdovscina
which shows definite signs of retooling itself to accommodate the burgeoning tourist trade
The main square is being completely renovated
while one old building is being transformed into a space for baking workshops
The town is also home to 14 historic Roman towers
It’s an intentionally small bistro-slash-delicatessen
artisanal products alongside wine pairings
The couple who own it are impossibly cool – Matej
sporting a baseball cap and trendy glasses
sits at the table to talk us through each course
from the homemade bread and Slovenian olive oil to the plate of local cow and sheep cheeses; from the full-bodied orange wine produced by a woman who buys up abandoned vineyards and gives them a new lease of life
to the traditional struklji rolls stuffed with sweet ricotta and topped with cinnamon
It feels like we’re dining al fresco in a delightful piazza in Italy or Spain
and as the sun loses some of its bite and late afternoon melts into evening
I can absolutely see what all the fuss is about
Jani is the best marketer for his home region – he used to be in a punk rock band before starting a local tour company as an excuse to return to the place he loves
as we tread the butter-coloured cobble-stone path back to the car
some of which we walked today; I feel the sun lightly grazing my skin; I pat my stomach contentedly after being plied with the region’s finest food and wine
Lot and Air France are all offering flights from London to Ljubljana with a stop in Frankfurt
Majerija is a farm-stay offering 10 fresh
unusually located under the property’s herb garden and next to a 300-year-old farmhouse
Local guiding outfit Wajdusna offers a “triathlon” package of hiking, wine tasting and paragliding for €195pp.
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consumers are increasingly turned on by the unorthodox
While it's challenging to picture a world where the celebrated crus of Bordeaux and Burgundy are eschewed from a commercial cellar
curious wine enthusiasts are more and more on the lookout for something 'a bit different'
And although it takes a new region a long time to establish itself on the palate, it is less well-known winemaking centres such as Slovenia that will become the smart drinker's choice in time
This is in no small part down to the surge in popularity of natural wines
But there's also a trend for easy-drinking wines
Slovenia really delivers in both these key areas
One of Slovenia's viticultural hotspots is the Vipava Valley
And the winemaker with the hottest profile on the market right now is Primož Lavrenčič
Unassuming yet deeply passionate, Lavrenčič has a vision that transfers to the glass
"I try to step back and understand how to encourage nature
to express its own character in my wines," he says
Indeed his vineyards obey strict biodynamic rules
which sees him very much on message for contemporary winemaking
he really believes in the principles and his terroir
He has even constructed a fascinating underground window
where visitors to the cellar can see the stratification of the land under the vineyard
The soils in the Vipava valley have slowly evolved on more than 50 million-year-old flysch marlstone and sandstone. And that's good news for viticulture
Natural wines are often described as wines with 'minimal intervention' by human hand
Winemakers like Lavrenčič largely leave nature alone
only making adjustments to fermentation temperature and other winery factors such as the level of exposure to oxygen a wine might have
The Vipava Valley is in the western part of Slovenia
The Vipava river runs through the centre of the valley on its way to empty into the Sôca river
reflecting light and warmth to help ripen the grapes in the sub-Mediterranean climate
The 'Bora' is the most significant wind with gusts even exceeding 200 kph at times
And this factor is helpful for winemakers who don't want to pollute their grapes with pesticides
No pest is going to cling onto a vine for very long when the Bora is menacing the landscape
The most memorable wine from the Burja estate
Nature taking its course is part of grape selection here
Zelen is not a grape that many people have heard of
but it's an indigenous varietal (fittingly meaning 'green') and as such has built up resistance to wind
One of the most exciting finds amongst the vineyards of western Slovenia was not so much related to vines but people
An initiative for winemakers to pass on their operations to their children has been sanctioned by the Slovenian government since 2014 as the Rural Development Programme
It allows a bursary of €45,000 per beneficiary
so it's not just winemakers that are covered
but it has really taken of in the viticultural sector
And financially it makes sense for older winegrowers to hand over the business to their children while still able to remain part of the business in a consultancy capacity
As Andrej Erzetič from Erzetič Wines told Euronews Culture
Based in the charming winemaking region of Brda
Aleksij Erzetič handed over the main winemaking and estate management to Andrej
a few years ago and the young winemaker has never looked back
Andrej keeps the flag flying for indigenous varietals like Belo and the rare Rebula Nero (which has something of the Cabernet Franc about it) but also enjoys experimenting with classic grape types such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay
And there's definitely some serious investment as the amphora room below would not have come cheap
Amphorae have become very popular very suddenly all over the winemaking world but they are nothing new
These were the preferred ageing vessels in Georgia
"I sometimes prefer amphora ageing to barrel ageing because of the shape and the presence of micro-organisms," Andrej says
Amphorae are made of clay: more giving than a steel tank
which doesn't engage with the wine on a molecular level
which can add its own flavours and aroma compounds to a wine
Erzetič also enjoys experimenting with different woods so try to find the perfect partnership with his grapes. Again, not cheap, but it's a diverting place to visit and his passion is clear to see. Visitors to the estate (totally recommended) will find a miasma of colours and materials
a veritable kaleidoscope forest featuring Acacia
I meet more young winemakers and took part in a new local tourism and education initiative
but learning about all the stages prior to opening a bottle
become more and more fascinating as one looks beyond the liquid
Andraž Ferjančič took over the reins from his father in 2019. He and artisan winemaker Mitja Kodre take visitors through the stages of winemaking even as far back as planting the actual vine.
And it's not just a token role play, you will genuinely plant a vine that will go on to make wine in three to five years. But you need to clear the ground first. You have to put the hard yards in. Well, I did. Apparently, this is optional but I didn't find that out until later on...
While it's certainly the natural wines of Slovenia that will find themselves very much on-trend and in increasing demand, perhaps even worldwide as buyers become more and more interested, there is also a positivity to this handing over to young winegrowers. The tendency towards lower ABV wines, made to be easy-drinking, is not, I believe, a passing fad, and this viticultural zeitgeist is the perfect arena for young superstars like Andrej, Mitja and Andraž to thrive.
This unique tour takes visitors to boutique vineries via an aerial excursion over hills and forests. The Financial Times’ Camilla Bell-Davies takes a leap of faith.
Slovenia's wine-growing Vipava Valley. (Photo: iStock)
In Slovenia’s Vipava valley, life is defined by a wind called the “burja”. When conditions are right, cold air sweeps down from the Julian Alps to the Adriatic coast, sometimes reaching 150km per hour. Rocks are placed on roof tiles to stop them blowing away, roads are sometimes closed to lorries and buses, even the trees have branches only on one side, their flat backs braced against the wind.
By early summer, though, calm usually prevails and just a warm sea breeze remains. It blows gently up the valley, creating ideal conditions for paragliding, a sport popular with the locals since the 1990s.
Today I am among their ranks, anxiously standing on a ridge, preparing to fly. I am here with guide Jani Peljhan who runs a “hike-fly-wine” tour that completes a perfect arc of Vipava: Starting at the town of Ajdovscina on the valley floor, hiking up to one of the highest cliffs, paragliding to the vineyards on the other side of the valley, before finishing underground for a tasting in a wine cellar.
The hike has taken us through woods and wildflower meadows, past a gaping hole in the ridge called “Otlisko okno”, the Otlica window. Legend has it that the devil tripped and his horn tore through the mountain, perhaps causing the wind to rush through.
At the top, we find our tandem pilots waiting. Tomaz Bavdez straps me in and reassures me with various safety checks. Then we are on our feet, harnessed together and ready to run. I had expected some kind of long, aeroplane-style take-off run, but instead we have less than 5 metres ahead of us before a sheer drop.
The run isn’t as graceful as I imagined either. The paraglider yanks us from side to side, but finally we feel the lift and the valley rushes away below us. I dangle for a few seconds, feet still paddling in the air, then at my pilot’s encouragement I slide back into the harness. “The best sofa and TV screen in Slovenia,” he said, over the wind.
He’s right: as we fly along the ridge, the scenery is dramatic. The shadow of our wing falls across the rocks, a warm breeze lifts us higher and brings the scent of pine up from the forest. I notice my muscles are still tense and I exhale; the experience is actually surprisingly relaxing.
When the cliffs end we turn and swoop into the valley. The Adriatic comes into view, misty in the distance. Tomaz asks if I want to try steering using the brake handles, found on either side above our shoulders. I take them cautiously and look up, my eye following the web of suspension lines that fan out to the wing above, each one thrumming lightly in the wind.
The vineyards are getting closer, as are the rooftops of the village of Budanje and its tiny church tower. Finally, we glide down beside them and our feet touch the ground. The wing folds gently behind us and I unclip and sway, totally blissed out. It’s a feeling one could easily get hooked on; indeed Tomaz tells me of an ex-heroin addict who got clean by taking up flying.
After packing the kit we head to a nearby winery belonging to young vintner Urban Petric, who runs one of hundreds of boutique wineries in the Vipava valley. The burja actually helps the vines here, Petric explains, preventing fungal diseases and obviating the need for chemical sprays. In an upstairs room he also cures hams, dried by the burja through open windows.
View this post on Instagram A post shared by Petric Urban winery (@petric_winery)
He leads us down to his cellar for a tasting
and the cool air is a relief to our windswept faces
combining with the mineral-rich soil to produce a flavour peculiar to Vipava that Slovenians call masleno
To me they taste floral and heady but this could be down to my post-flight high
the food and wine distinctive.” And paragliding
is a way to unwind when the wind dies down – a moment of calm between each storm
By Camilla Bell-Davies © 2022 The Financial Times
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Tomaž Kavčič and Uroš Fakuč tell us about their vision of Slovenian modern gastronomy
Not far from the Italian border and sprinkled with delightful castles and manor houses
the Slovenian Vipava valley stays green all year round
is home to many gastronomic traditions inspired by Italian cuisine and traditional Slovenian farming culture
a winter vegetable soup reminiscent of minestrone
The valley’s exceptionally pleasant climate and its famous wind
whose brief gusts can reach speeds of up to 200 kilometers an hour
make it ideal to dry cured meat (hence the unique local prosciutto) and wine growing
Natural wines are a historic tradition in the valley
unique grape is the semi-aromatic white variety called Zelèn
Drawing on this rich local heritage, one-Michelin-starred chef Tomaž Kavčič is at the head of Gostilna pri Lojzetu
a restaurant set in the seventeenth-century manor house of Zemono
The blindingly white building perched atop a hill is jettied over the Vipava valley
offering a breathtaking view on serpentine rivers and green meadows
The former motorbike sportsman and race car athlete
is the fourth generation of cooks and farmers in his family
His respect for the traditions of this littoral region stems from his mother’s side
His grandfather taught him how to choose perfect ingredients at the local market and his grandmother
whose specialty was freshly fished octopus with beans and polenta
Kavčič’s mother herself used to run a gostilna
and naturally passed on her love for simple
Even though Gostilna pri Lojzetu is a fine-dining address hosted in the former leisure mansion of the Counts of Venice (legend has it that Casanova spent three days on its premisses)
Kavčič insists that it’s still a gostilna and not a restaurant
The guests’ experience must include everything from hello to goodbye
Yet innovation is key to Kavčič’s approach to fine-dining
which quickly made him one of the pioneers of Slovenian modern gastronomy
the country was not ready for this type of cuisine »
invigorating drink made with his homemade gin
Paired with delicious biodynamic wines from the Vipava valley
and octopus fresh off the boat find a new expression in almost abstract arrangements
a lemon ice-cream with gin and tonic aspic
presents itself in exhilarating puffs of smoke
« This dessert has been in the family tradition of restaurateurs for decades »
« Slovenia is the country of juniper berries and wild herbs
All of this inspired me to make my own gin
The whole Vipava valley is in that bottle
» Elaborated after seventy-two different test distillations
Kavčič’s gin is made in Slovenia’s oldest distillery
At the other end of the Vipava valley, at the Italian border, Uroš Fakuč’s DAM boutique hotel & restaurant is a new staple of Slovenian fine-dining
This elegant address paired with a tasteful boutique hotel is the ideal setting for Chef Uroš’ delicate
Each plate is a subtle homage to the terroir of the Vipava valley
sardine and cod - are reminiscent of what Slovenians like to eat at Christmas »
our national gastronomy improved massively
While he is deeply admirative of his country’s farming traditions
he admits that he finds most of his inspiration when travelling
It opens your mind to see different types of ingredients
but I believe in kilometer vero : the most reasonable distance to get the right ingredients
I need the best produce possible and constant quality
If it means ordering oysters from Brittany
» Chef Uroš’ philosophy is simple : « Fine-dining means perfect food
Taste is the most important element in high gastronomy
but everything around it must be at its best
You need to treat your guests with a professional tone
with politeness ; you must make them feel special and greet them with a warm
I want to create a place for real hedonists
» To make sure everything is the way he intends it
he personally sees to every little detail in his restaurant and hotel
and takes the time to sit at the front desk to welcome his guests
sincere manners do make a great impression
Whether in the restaurant or in their hotel room
The chef’s sense of detail translates marvelously onto the plates
there is nothing stuck-up about Fakuč’s idea of fine-dining
« One could simply describe it as a modern mediterranean kitchen »
« Ingredients from the sea represent my style best ».The sea-loving chef used to work as a consultant on Mediterranean islands
the smell of the wind… I can stay quiet and stare at the sea for hours and feel perfectly happy »
Fakuč invested all of his savings into the restaurant and the boutique hotel
and even on holiday I look forward to going back to work
I love to make other people happy with my restaurant
I know I’ve made it when I see guests coming back
warm-hearted and hard-working chef is freshly crowned with a Michelin-star
« And I feel the responsibility that comes with it
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The valley\u2019s exceptionally pleasant climate and its famous wind
unique grape is the semi-aromatic white variety called Zel\u00e8n
Drawing on this rich local heritage, one-Michelin-starred chef Toma\u017e Kav\u010di\u010d is at the head of Gostilna pri Lojzetu
His respect for the traditions of this littoral region stems from his mother\u2019s side
Kav\u010di\u010d\u2019s mother herself used to run a gostilna
Kav\u010di\u010d insists that it\u2019s still a gostilna and not a restaurant
\u00ab Gost means guest in Slovenian \u00bb
The guests\u2019 experience must include everything from hello to goodbye
it\u2019s not only about what\u2019s on the plate \u00bb
Yet innovation is key to Kav\u010di\u010d\u2019s approach to fine-dining
the country was not ready for this type of cuisine \u00bb
\u00ab The guests and the chef grow together
Kav\u010di\u010d\u2019s dishes are daringly creative
\u00ab This dessert has been in the family tradition of restaurateurs for decades \u00bb
\u00ab Slovenia is the country of juniper berries and wild herbs
\u00bb Elaborated after seventy-two different test distillations
Kav\u010di\u010d\u2019s gin is made in Slovenia\u2019s oldest distillery
At the other end of the Vipava valley, at the Italian border, Uro\u0161 Faku\u010d\u2019s DAM boutique hotel & restaurant is a new staple of Slovenian fine-dining
This elegant address paired with a tasteful boutique hotel is the ideal setting for Chef Uro\u0161\u2019 delicate
\u00ab The amuse-bouches - sourdough bread
sardine and cod - are reminiscent of what Slovenians like to eat at Christmas \u00bb
While he is deeply admirative of his country\u2019s farming traditions
\u00ab One needs to see what other chefs do
\u00bb Chef Uro\u0161\u2019 philosophy is simple : \u00ab Fine-dining means perfect food
\u00bb To make sure everything is the way he intends it
The chef\u2019s sense of detail translates marvelously onto the plates
there is nothing stuck-up about Faku\u010d\u2019s idea of fine-dining
\u00ab One could simply describe it as a modern mediterranean kitchen \u00bb
\u00ab Ingredients from the sea represent my style best \u00bb.The sea-loving chef used to work as a consultant on Mediterranean islands
the smell of the wind\u2026 I can stay quiet and stare at the sea for hours and feel perfectly happy \u00bb
Faku\u010d invested all of his savings into the restaurant and the boutique hotel
I know I\u2019ve made it when I see guests coming back
\u00ab And I feel the responsibility that comes with it
have also led to widespread wildfires across the country
including the Karst region where olive trees have been burned
Despite monitoring of pests like the olive fruit fly
experts believe the fruit drop is more likely due to abiotic factors like temperature and rainfall
The joy of abundant flowering was followed by sadness a month after fertilization as olives turned brown and fell from their branches
This is a summary of this year’s olive growing season in Slovenia
Sandwiched between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea
olives have been cultivated since ancient times in the coastal areas ofthe Brdi
both from the point of view of a sustainable food system and from the point of view of preserving the quality of the environment and sustainable tourism,” said Maja Podgornik
the head of the Institute for Olive Growing at ZRS Koper
Slovenian extra virgin olive oil is regularly recognized for its quality at international competitions. At the NYIOOC World Olive Oil Competition
Slovenian producers have earned awards each year since its inception in 2013
Olives are grown on 2,389 hectares in Slovenia by around 4,200 growers
The total income generated by the sector reaches €10 to €15 million each year
olive growers are desperately seeking answers to this year’s fruit drop
“The current drying and falling of the fruits cannot be connected with the attacks of diseases and pests,” the Agricultural Forestry Institute of Nova Gorica replied decisively
Due to the lack of precipitation and the resulting extremely dry conditions this year few disease outbreaks were reported
While some cases of peacock’s eye (Spilocaea oleagina) and olive spot (Mycocentrospora cladosporioides)
timely spraying prevented any damage from occurring
The phenomenon was less pronounced than in previous years
farmers were also able to follow the flight and reproductive cycles of the olive moth (Prays oleae)
They said that they have not noticed much difference in the time and number of pest outbreaks compared to previous years
we have been regularly monitoring the presence of the marble bug (Halyomorpha halys) in olive groves,” officials from the institute wrote in their report
“The pest was regularly observed in individual olive groves
dried and fallen) are regularly sampled and inspected for possible damage caused by black bug bites,” they added
“We did not notice any damage from pests.”
they concluded the during and falling of the fruit was not connected with attacks of the marble bug or the presence of other pests in olive groves
Since the beginning of this year, the most significant olive pest – the olive fruit fly (Bactrocera oleae) – has been monitored at dozens of locations with the help of pheromone traps
The fly was identified in larger numbers from the end of March to the beginning of May
the period before the olive trees blossom
olive fruit fly populations decreased significantly
The current weather conditions are not favorable for the appearance of pests
which is confirmed by the small number identified in pheromone traps
officials still recommend that farmers set traps in their groves to deter any potential infestations
Additional measures against pests are currently not necessary
they believe that the cause of the drying and dropping relate more to abiotic factors such as air temperature
In the period from flowering to ripening, a sufficient amount of water is very important for the development of the olive fruits. It has been scientifically proven that on trees exposed to higher temperatures there is an increased fruit drop and consequently a smaller harvest
Slovenian experts said the winter and spring of 2022 have been the driest since 1993
they expect 2022 will be the driest year of the past three decades
only 193 millimeters of rain fell in Slovenia
the total amount of precipitation was about 300 millimeters
A minimum of 500 millimeters of rainfall is required for optimal olive development
“The scale of this year’s drought exceeds those of 2003
when olive growers produced 40 to 70 percent fewer olives
and the drought was declared a natural disaster at the state level,” officials said
The lack of rainfall in the winter and spring brings plenty of headaches to olive farmers as moisture does not build up in the soil
By the end of the spring – in the period before and during flowering – too little rainfall means the trees are unable to fertilize the blossoms normally and receive nutrients
Experts believe this led to weaker development of the floral organs and complete fertilization
which may have resulted in the browning and fruit drop
Another consequence of the country’s ongoing drought has been rampant wildfires burning across Slovenia
According to data from the European Forest Fire Information System (EFFIS)
five fires have burned 2,384 hectares in Slovenia in the first six months of 2022
the Carso wildfire is currently wreaking havoc
Photos from local media suggest some olive trees have burned and smoke has forced local residents to flee
According to EFFIS, 2022 is on pace to be the worst wildfire season in Europe since records began
More articles on: 2022 olive harvest, drought, fruit fly
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This summer JSG Professor Rowan Martindale and graduate student Nick Ettinger traveled to Morocco and Slovenia to look for Early Jurassic rocks, specifically those from the Toarcian Oceanic Anoxic Event (~183 million years ago)
Stéphane Bodin (Aarhus University) so we were hiking around the High Atlas Mountains looking at the sedimentological and biotic response to this event
Morocco has one of the thickest records of shallow water carbonates from the Early Jurassic and some of the best reefs so there are many projects that will result from this scouting work (hopefully)
we were collecting samples for my student Nick Ettinger’s MSc thesis
Slovenia is one of the few shallow water carbonate platforms that has a good record of the Toarcian Oceanic Anoxic Event
Nick is hoping to identify the Anoxic event in Slovenia and combine sedimentology
and geochemistry to understand the environmental changes occurring during the OAE
Check out her blog Finding Fossils to see more pictures from the field
2023•6 min read.css-1ht3mas{margin-block:40px;}.css-1abu0ph{text-align:right;font-size:12px;font-weight:var(--chakra-font-weights-bold);margin-top:0.5em;}PlanetScope image of agricultural fields in Vipava Valley
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two-hour drive from Slovenia’s capital Ljubljana
the tiny town of Kobarid was already shut for the evening
My travel companion Bianca and I weren’t bothered by Polonka’s kitchen being closed
The owners of the guesthouse had already prepared a plate of owner Valter’s aged
raw cow’s milk cheese and thinly sliced roast beef for us—the perfect pairing with the bottle of Burja Pinot Noir we picked up from the natural winery on the drive over
Kobarid sits in the Soča Valley on the northwestern edge of the country
The hand-drawn map we were handed when we checked in sums up the town’s size: Off the central square
and church that still sports the bell tower Hemingway mentions in his 1929 classic A Farewell to Arms
“More and more people are talking about Slovenian gastronomy,” says Ana
who was named the world’s best female chef by The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2017
as we sampled kombucha made in-house by Hiša Franko’s fermentation team
they’re starting to become more interested in the country
thought: “If Slovenia is now becoming a gastronomic destination
why not connect the best gastronomic destinations in the country?”
“We’re building cycling routes that connect villages and places travelers often pass over,” says route-development specialist Alex Crevar
but they don’t necessarily contain the personality of the country—you start to feel the real spirit of Slovenia when you cycle through these villages and often-overlooked communities.”
The Soča Valley is one of the first stops on the 300-mile
the route snakes its way past the mermaid lagoon-colored Soča River: past vineyards and crumbling medieval castles; up steep hills crowned with cliffside villages
with climbs reaching up to nearly 1,600 feet
An Italian chapel in the mountains of the Soča Valley.Photo: Boris PretnarAs the “green heart” of Europe
farm-to-table and foraging are the core of the culture here
which is why everything from the wine to the cheese is most likely from the village you’re cycling through
“Slovenia is one of the greenest countries in the world—just look around,” Ana told me as her forager returned with finds from that morning
including plump porcini mushrooms the size of a plum and fuchsia-colored edible flowers
imported ingredients like caviar or foie gras—you can find what you need right here.”
Michelin-starred restaurant promotes small
“But we also tick a lot of boxes in terms of activities and nature.”
where the largest brewery in the country brews the town’s namesake beer
as Luka offers us a digestif—homemade spirits and liqueurs crafted from fruit grown in his father’s vegetable garden beneath the restaurant
since the roads will never be as packed with cyclists like
And that well-deserved glass of Slovenian wine is never more than a short ride away
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Ajdovščina is a humble town in the Vipava Valley region of Slovenia, close to the border with Italy. Locals know the Vipava valley for the excellent wines it produces - as well as prosciutto to rival that of its famous neighbour. But Ajdovščina has another distinction: it has become an unlikely hub for the collection of plastic trash from around the world.
Each year, around 40,000 tons of old fishing nets, synthetic carpet, and textile offcuts arrive at a warehouse on the outskirts of the town. They come from as far afield as Cameroon, Thailand, New Zealand, America, and China - but the warehouse isn’t the final stop on their journey.
Lake Bled, SloveniaThis tiny country in Central Europe has become an unexpected hub for a pioneering circular economy project that’s turning waste into a brand-new resource.
“Normally you take raw materials from the planet, you make products and you landfill them,” says Giulio Bonazzi, chairman and CEO of Aquafil. “But instead of using oil, we use waste.” The affable Italian gestures at a huge repository of discarded products - enormous bales of green netting, thickly braided rope, giant bags filled with scrap material, and musty bundles of carpet. All of them share one thing in common - they’re made of nylon - the core material in Aquafil’s global business.
However, over the same period, nylon’s reputation has shifted. Yes, it is a wonder material that can be fashioned into everything from women’s stockings to molded machine parts, but it is also a product of the petrochemical industry. Thanks to its ubiquity and resilience, nylon now permeates the entire planet, along with other popular plastic polymers like polyester.
The company’s new partnership with Prada is helping to take the concept of circularity mainstream. According to Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Marketing and Communication, the company plans to switch all of its virgin nylon to Re-Nylon by the end of 2021. “The Prada Re-Nylon project highlights our continued efforts towards promoting a responsible business and this collection will allow us to make our contribution and create products without using new resource,” he says.
“Nylon is an iconic product for Prada, so the fact they use ECONYL for their applications presents a great opportunity,” says Bonazzi. “These beautiful products that Prada is making - they come from trash. That’s really like modern day alchemy.”
This tiny country in Central Europe has become an unexpected hub for a pioneering circular economy project that’s turning waste into a brand-new resource.
They say the best way to experience a country’s history and culture is through its food
where the varied landscape; prime location in the heart of Europe; and proximity to countries like Italy
and Hungary are the perfect recipe for rich culinary journeys
and the sea—all within a two-hour drive—Slovenian dishes vary vastly from one region to the next
creating a tasting menu on a national scale
The country’s culinary creations have ignited a fire of international attention
Gault & Millau—one of the best-known French restaurant “bibles’” alongside the Michelin guide—recently recognized a raft of Slovenian eateries with six restaurants received four Gault Millau hats each (out of a possible five): Hiša Franko in Kobarid
Gostilna pri Lojzetu at Zemono Manor in Vipava
Mak Restaurant in Maribor and Strelec in Ljubljana
Hiša Franko offers diners welcome relief after a long journey
Slovenian chefs themselves have earned an array of accolades
too—all of which is inspiring foodies to flock here and find out what the fuss is about
Perhaps the most famous of these chefs is Ana Roš
the charismatic owner of Hiša Franko—an unassuming-looking eatery featured in the Netflix series Chef’s Table in 2016 and located close to the sleepy town of Kobarid
Roš has reinvented traditional Slovenian dishes
turning them into works of art that are putting the country on the international culinary map
Take her treatment of beef tongue—a traditional Slovenian favorite—which Roš serves with oysters and a salad of samphire
The result is an immaculately-presented “surf-and-turf” creation
reflecting the nation’s proximity to the sea
Despite all the talk of Roš’ creative flair in the kitchen
if you ask her the secret behind her world-renowned dishes
nature is the source of Roš’ inspiration—just as it is for her husband and business partner
the couple’s pink-walled Hiša Franko was originally built as a roadside inn in 1868
tree-covered hills have nurtured the creativity of some illustrious guests—including Ernest Hemingway
who allegedly penned A Farewell to Arms here while recovering from injuries he incurred during World War I
the landscape serves as Roš’ natural larder
and nuts from the surrounding hills; vegetables grown in the restaurant’s biodynamic garden; cow’s milk collected from the herd grazing in the lush mountain pastures above the restaurant; or freshly-caught trout from the nearby Soča River
the Hiša Franko menu options evolve with the seasons
While Roš is one of the most famous faces of cutting-edge Slovenian cuisine
there is an entire generation of chefs who are making their names on the international stage
including a spot on the Top 50 list of the world’s best restaurants
Bratovž draws upon Slovenia’s diverse bounty of natural ingredients
with inspiration from the four elements of earth
and air—all represented via different taste profiles
and you’ll experience tantalizing hot-and-cold combinations like marinated seabass on cucumber and lime “snow” with raspberry and chili
Sun streams in from behind a row of trees on Vršič Mountain
Another chef earning international plaudits is Tomaž Kavčič
Based at Zemono Manor in the Vipava Valley—about an hour from the capital—Kavčič
blends the best of the Slovenian ingredients in dishes
such as smoked Vipava trout served with a “dust” of tomatoes
There’s much more to Slovenia’s foodie scene than just fine dining
Ljubljana boasts a thriving street-food culture
the highlight being a weekly “Open Kitchen”—or Odprta kuhna—which runs from spring to autumn
the open-air culinary celebration draws food producers from all over the country
locally sourced offerings like sweet cherries served alongside black wild salmon burgers from the likes of Organic Garden
stop in at one of the many waterfront bars serving tasty Slovenian beers
Toast the day—and your culinary discoveries—by sitting back and sipping the froth off a local brew while watching the world go by in the early evening sunshine
with more than 20 gastronomic regions to explore
features traditional farms making their own sausages
mountain huts preparing savory stews for hikers
and coastal towns offering fresh seafood from the Adriatic
Whether you’re a passionate foodie or casual traveler
June 16: With the borders adjoining Austria and Italy
Slovenia has been the only country in Central Europe that remained aligned to Western Europe with cross viticulture and the culture of this beautiful green country even when it was a part of autocratic Yugoslavia
writes Subhash Arora who visited 10 wineries last month
and shares the soul of 6 Slovenian vineyards in Part II of the two-part series
Slovenia is divided into three wine zones further sub-divided into 9 sub zones
The western zone adjoining Italy is Primorska (The Coast) divided into Koper
I visited 6 wineries in the last 2 sub-zones during my recent trip to Slovenia
VALTER MLEČNIK WINE CELLAR
Contact Person: Valter Mlečnik
Based in a small village called Bukovica in Vipava Valley in Goriška region, Valter Mlečnik has been famous for making organic/bio-dynamic wines for 15 years-though the winery was certified organic in 2005
He took over the family winery located in a 17th century building
His vision goes beyond the vineyard into the winery
The lanky Valter is in the forefront of natural wine production in modern Slovenia and one of the few making only natural wines
He owns 9.5 hA land with many old vines-some older than 60 years old
with low yields of 0.5 kgm per plant; I remember fondling one that was planted by his grandfather in 1947 (year of Independence for India)
He produces only 12,000 bottles of natural wine though he is trying to optimize his vineyards to take the number to 20,000
the number went down to 4000 bottles because of one week of rain during the flowering and a lot of mildew
There is no official definition of natural wines globally but Valter likens it to multi-grain bread as compared with regular wines which are like white bread
he feels only natural wines should be called wines
there should be another name evolved for the modern wines that are made using pesticides and chemical fertilizers and artificial control of temperature
Although not all orange wines are natural
he is not averse to the growing popularity of the name for this category and feels the terminology has at least brought focus on natural wines
He is aware that in Australia there is an Orange Appellation
upset about the name being bandied around for these wines
(I may clarify for Indian readers that orange wines have nothing to do with oranges!)
He is clear that the modern day winemaking with chemicals and fertilizers and too much of intervention has changed the old style used for centuries
For him Italy is the most lucrative market
Japan is very important with a small amount sold in Austria
Mlečnik wines are not for everyone’s pocket or palate
Costing € 13.5 for Ana to €25 for Chardonnay
they are for people who seek wines for the soul
I have coined the term ‘intellectual wines’ for these wines
They need an evolved palate but his ‘pure’ wines do not need much time to align with the palate
We were scheduled to meet for an hour
but there was enough chemistry between the two of us to spend over 3 hours while his wife kept streaming home-made salads and several local dishes. Beyond the tasting
I found myself asking for refills of the natural Chardonnay as we conversed about the world of natural wines- a fantastic learning experience
Mlečnik is a member of the ViniVeri Association (www.viniveri.net) which has members committed to natural wines
It started participating in Vinitaly around the turn of the millennium but branched off into organising a parallel wine show near Verona at the same time as Vinitaly where he participates regularly
Contact Person: Matjaz Lemut tilia@lemut.net
Set up in Dobravlje in Vipavska Dolina (Vipava Valley)
the winery is owned and run by Matjaz Lemut who studied economics in Switzerland and his wife Melita who has done a PhD
Her dissertation topic was ‘Canopy microclimate manipulation in the sustainable management of Pinot Noir vineyard in the Vipava valley’
it is not surprising that they specialise in Pinot Noir
the oenologist couple even declared theirs as House of Pinot
they are celebrating the 20th year of their harvest as Tilia – a label that signifies the Latin name for the Linden tree growing on the estate
The boutique winery produces 50,000 bottles (about 4000 cases) a year and exports to UK (Naked Wines)
Although Pinot Noir is getting more and more attention
Chardonnay as well as the most popular grape of Vipava Valley
which forms about a third of the production
The grey Pinot is more on the style of Gris
the winery has done a very good job with the Grigio
Even the Sauvignon Blanc 2014 was intensely perfumed
fruity and crisp with good length and leaving a pleasant after-taste (89)
Chardonnay 2014 was not my favourite wine though (85)
starting with the 2013 made from young 4- year old vines
it was still young and astringent but had good aging potential (88)
Another label of 2013 made from 15 year old vines was much more delicious
fuller and with more complex flavours and intense aromas (89)
VALTER SIRK
The winery in Visnjevik in Dobrovo in the picturesque area of Goriška Brda near the Italian border was under renovation when I went to visit but Valter Sirk was kind enough to take me through his cellar and taste several wines with me
The Sirk family has worked in vines and wines for generations
But it was in 1991 that they started their own wine production with Valter Sirk vineyard and cellar
they have the usual autochthon varieties like Rebula (Ribolla Gialla)
Malvasia and also the international varieties like Pinot Grigio (Sivi Pinot)
The wines are generally fermented in stainless steel tank with 20 % in oak barrels to increase creaminess in the wine
there are also two blended wines aged in barriques (old and new)- Teresa White (blend of Chardonnay
Sauvignonasse and Malvasia) and Red ( Merlot
Cabernet Franc and Malbec) which are excellently made wines
After a period of growth in the domestic market
the company also exports to Italy with the help of the Trieste-based Italian partner and the rest of Europe- and even beyond
Contact Person: Aleks Simčič
Located in a predominantly residential area in the small village of Vipolže
Dobrovo in Goriška Brda –Goricia Collio (Slovenian equivalent of the adjoining Colli Orientali in Italy)
the winery is difficult to locate unless you are with someone
but it’s worth a visit if you are looking for a boutique winery producing high quality wines
when Yugoslavia annexed this territory previously held by Italy
Edi Simčič found his vineyards 500 meters on the wrong side of the border
he was forced to supply grapes to the government-controlled cooperative
the Simčič family set up a winery and in a short span of time became a leading quality boutique producer
so well-known overseas that it exports 70% of the annual production of around 3,000 cases
winemaker Aleks Simčič has renovated the old cellar and looks after the business
I met and tasted a range of Edi Simčič wines with him
the most important grape in the Brda region
‘The majority grows on the Slovenian side as it needs to be planted on the steep and poor soil
But it also needs heavy selection in the vineyard
with our 40+ year old vine adding to the intensity,’ he says
In addition to its 4.5 acres of Rebula
Simčič has 5 acres of Chardonnay
as well as 8.75 acres of Merlot and 1.25 acres each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc
Aleks justifies the prices because of the cost being higher as the vineyards are situated on very hilly areas requiring manual work
The winery thus aims for higher quality rather than cheaper wines
They use sustainable agriculture with practically no use of herbicides or pesticides
Low yields of about 1.5 tons/acre costs more to grow vines but they do not need any additional fertilizing
The winery also has a small luxurious villa called Alma Vista with a modern Spa and a swimming pool for 4-8 persons
it has been constructed with the help of an EU grant of 45% in conjunction with the government
If you want to spend a few days in the lap of luxury and drink high quality wines
this is the place to be-with beautiful vistas of the Brda hills
MOVIA
Contact Person: Vesna Kristančič
For many wine aficionados inside Slovenia and a majority outside
Ceglo based Movia in Dobrovo is Slovenia and Slovenia is Movia
The 6th generation family owner Ales Kristančič isconsidered a wine genius by some and an eccentric by others
But nobody denies his innovative and unorthodox style of winemaking and his experimenting with new ideas
His histrionics can make you go wild with laughter
The tasting room in the porch outside the building that looks like a villa
faces one of the most beautiful vineyard landscapes in Slovenia and is a perfect setting for wine tasting
As we enter and exchange greetings with his charming wife Vesna Kristančič she tells us that he is in the winery and will show up soon
Her favourite (and ours) music is playing on a juke box in the adjoining sitting room as she proceeds to uncork a bottle of sparkling wine labelled Puro 2006 with no cage
She has an ice bucket full of water in front
She pops the cork as she dips the inverted bottle instantly into water
The blob of sediments is ejected into water
She quickly straightens the bottle and pours the bubbly into our glasses which have an unusually long stem and a bowl like a compressed Bordeaux wine glass- designed by Movia
The wine has been disgorged right in front of our eyes
This unique innovation of Ales has resulted in the Puro- a Rebula and Chardonnay blend
with only 5mg of sulphites as compared to 60-80 mg for other sparkling wines
Since it is disgorged only before drinking
every bottle has a much longer shelf life
cylindrical cardboard holder and during transportation and storage the bottles must be kept inverted
Movia has been owned by the Kristančič family since 1820
Thanks to Ales Movia is considered one of the best producers of Slovenia
He owns 22 hA vineyards about 8 hA of which are in Italy
Elevating from grape growing to wine making
90,000 to 130,000 bottles are produced every year
Italy is his best market though he sells all over EU
He is an avid fan of Natural wines. Lunar is one such wine-his most recent creation. Made from Rebula, it is orange in colour, aged for 9-12 months in barrels buried 25 feet underground without intervention
Like Puro it’s also bottled on lees and has to be decanted to remove the sediments
Another interesting wine that has a unique personality is Veliko –the Red is an unusual
The whites are made in an unusually oxidative style
is subjected to two years of aging in oak casks- an approach being followed by many top Slovenian producers
Ales joins and chats with us for almost an hour by the end of which we are splitting with laughter
He is enamoured by India-as is his wife Vesna
With his unique style and innovative approach he should have a niche market in India for his wines which are being lapped up by Sommeliers and wine connoisseurs in US
who are bored with regular wines and looking for something unique and different
Movia provides several interesting options in regular
BLAZIC WINES
vina.blazic@siol.net
This is another family run boutique wine estate in Goriška Brda
near the Italian border at Cormons in Friuli Venezia Giulia area
I still can’t get over the fact that I could keep one leg in Slovenia and the other in Italy at his farm
Dobrovo is dedicated to white and orange wines with annual sales of around 30,000 bottles
though a small quantity of reds is also in the portfolio
The Blazic family has been in the business of growing and selling grapes since 1890
But it was 100 years later that the current owner Borut Blazic started bottling and selling his wines in 1993
With 7hA of vineyards spread over Slovenia and Italy across the notional border
he specialises in Rebula (Ribolla Gialla) but also makes Pinot Grigio
He is a well-known producer for quality orange wines (his top quality Sauvignonasse Selection sells for over €25)
The demand is growing for orange wines but the number of producers has also been going up
There were 2-3 producers in 2000 but now there are a total of around 30-40 of them in this area
A visit to Vipava Valley cannot be complete without tasting a unique wine we ordered at a restaurant during dinner
Zelén is a unique and rare indigenous white grape variety found in Vipava Valley and nowhere else in the world
17 producers of this wine came together and formed Association Zelén
the wine has to be bottled in a special coke type curvaceous bottle
corks and even cardboard packing have to be uniform
Only about 60,000 bottles of this wine which is supposed to have extra oxidants
green and beautiful Brda region is home to excellent wines
Several autochthonous varieties form an excellent match with the delicious dishes
You can taste them in hospitable wine cellars
farms and at characteristic local cultural events
Make an effort to enjoy these Slovenian wines whenever you go to Northeast Italy or Austria
even if you cannot go to Slovenia for an extended holiday
For the earlier Articles and Part 1 of the 2-part series
Visiting Wineries of Slovenia- Štajerska Slovenija
Blog: I feel sLOVEnia
Want to laze in the sun, gobble up some culture or go on an active break this summer, but without having to mess around with tests and paperwork? Here’s our pick of places that have scrapped all Covid restrictions
gobble up some culture or go on an active break this summer
but without having to mess around with tests and paperwork
Here’s our pick of places that have scrapped all Covid restrictions
Gone are the days of mandatory travmin (travel admin); for those looking for a fuss-free break, there’s a wealth of options this summer, after numerous destinations decided to scrap all Covid restrictions
There’s now a growing list of countries where travellers can simply rock up
quarantine or proof of vaccination required
here’s our pick of holiday destinations where the only potential headache will be whether the UK’s beleaguered travel industry can get you there as planned..
and a Mediterranean-esque microclimate are complemented by vineyards (wine tasting is a must) and Italianate tasting plates
You can get between islands pretty easily spring to autumn
with some ferries from as little as £8 one-way
is a tranquil beauty with swathes of unspoilt nature and lively little ports for an evening out
This autonomous Portuguese archipelago was quick off the mark when it came to shedding restrictions
binning them in early March (compared to mainland Portugal
With the Spain’s Canaries still insisting on proof of vaccination or a negative test
sun-seekers after a scorching island with dramatic
volcanic scenery could consider swapping Tenerife for Madeira’s four islands this summer
as well as a bustling harbour in capital Funchal
In May, Vietnam became the first country in Asia to scrap all Covid-19 travel and entry guidelines for travellers arriving by air - regardless of vaccination status. Combine a city and sea break by heading to Ho Chi Minh City
complex history and plenty of culture to soak up in a hot
A short hop (1hr flight) will get you to the island of Phú Quốc
known for its white-sand beaches and fabulous
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The conference summit on Thursday will feature the Future of Tourism Coalition meeting
communities and the travel industry in an effort to find solutions for climate action and greater resilience to climate change
Seven Slovenian destinations made it to the Green Destinations Top 100 Stories list: Miren Kras with the Krasna kuhinja brand
which helps guests in the destination to recognize top local gastronomy; Maribor with a new VR experience in the Stara trta House and Ljubljana also with a digitalization project of Plečnik's cultural heritage. The Rogla-Pohorje destination was awarded thanks to the renovation of the Žička Kartuzija
and Jeruzalem for the construction of the new rest areas for motorhomes
which were lacking in the destination. Rogaška Slatina was awarded for the mobility infrastructure project
which included the construction of the new walkway leading to the P+R parking lot and bikes. In Vipava
the Become a winemaker for one day project was awarded
which allows visitors to experience the wine heritage of the area in an authentic way
More you can read here...
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