How a former NYPD detective unraveled the stories of the Galician Jews who survived the Holocaust in caves in western Ukraine 2023Get email notification for articles from Viktoria Greenboim Rich FollowJul 22 a boy and his friends ventured into a cave near their home in the Borshchiv district of western Ukraine they lowered themselves into Verteba Cave and began to explore Whole chambers in the cave had been turned into living spaces It seemed that people had camped there for some time the boy saw unfamiliar letters on the cave wall Who were these people who had made the cave their home The curious kids asked their parents and locals who told them that Jews had hidden in the cave during World War II Open gallery viewWriting on the wall in Priest’s Grotto.Credit: Sokhatskyi Mykhailo Open gallery viewWriting on a wall in Verteba Cave: “Hashomer” – a Jewish defense organization in Palestine.Credit: Sokhatskyi MykhailoThe boy grew up and went on to study speleology and archaeology Mykhailo Sokhatskyi has been the director of the Borschivskyy Local History Museum which is devoted to history and archaeology Verteba Cave had been occupied for over 6,000 years Through scientific excavations that began in 1829 it has proved to be a crucial source of knowledge about the prehistoric Cucuteni-Trypillia culture which ranged over a large swath of eastern Europe as long ago as the seventh millennium B.C.E Since it isn’t the most hospitable of caves Sokhatskyi – who himself has been excavating the site using modern means since 1996 – and other scholars suspect that over the millennia In the course of exploring and researching the Verteba Cave complex Sokhatskyi found more and more clues left by the elusive modern-era people whose traces he first encountered as a child and he sought clues by learning about the history of the Jewish community in the area but all led to a dead end – he heard rumors a 42-year-old speleologist and former New York Police Department investigator decided to visit western Ukraine both in search of his family’s roots and to explore the area’s stupendous gypsum caves one of the longest gypsum caves in the world Christos Nicola – like the young Sokhatskyi nearly three decades earlier – stumbled upon modern artifacts On the floor of a large gallery that he reached after crawling some way through the cave’s narrow labyrinths but the shoe particularly got him wondering: Who was the girl – and might she still be alive Suddenly he wondered if there might be a documentary film in all this Open gallery viewChris Nicola inside Priest's Grotto.Credit: Christos Nicola Open gallery viewA girl's shoe inside the Verteba Cave.Credit: Peter Lane TaylorLike young Sokhatskyi and his friends three decades earlier but these were the days just after the fall of the Iron Curtain and the locals were wary of talking with the “alien” American he ran into an old lady outside the cave who told him that Jews had lived there during the war Nicola embarked on a mission to find the survivors While Sokhatskyi was uncovering more and more artifacts left by the people in Verteba Cave over the decades Nicola was researching and documenting the findings from Priest’s Grotto and also searching for survivors They certainly didn’t know that they were looking for the same people Nicola shuttled between New York and Ukraine interviewing locals and doing research in libraries and archives in the United States “Holocaust cave survivor” or “Jewish cave,” but nothing surfaced Open gallery viewBottles found in Verteba Cave.Credit: Sokhatskyi MykhailoThen he had an idea “If this rumor I was investigating is true perhaps one day a relative would be doing genealogical research and if I used the right keywords while advertising my [caving] websites maybe somebody would find his way to me,” he explains as he was starting to think about giving it all up Nicola received an email with the subject “Jewish cave survivors,” from a man whose father-in-law survived the Holocaust with 37 friends and relatives underground in a cave in Ukraine Sol Wexler lived only seven miles away from Christos Nicola in New York Bil’che-Zolote and Borshchiv before the war in western Ukraine – a region known as Galicia Altogether Nicola interviewed 14 survivors Some of those people had spent a total of 511 days living in the caves The families’ experiences could fill a book Some of the memories became blurred in time Open gallery viewChris Nicola with Sol Wexler in 2003.Credit: Christos NicolaThe Jews of Galicia today a region split between Ukraine and Poland the Jewish population of Galicia (then controlled by the second Polish Republic) was among the largest in all of Europe Verteba and Priest’s Grotto Cave are located near the city of Borshchiv in and around which Jews began settling in the early 18th century the Jewish communities in the villages of the area which included Korolivka and Bil’che-Zolote reaching a combined population of about 12,000 There had been occasional pogroms beforehand most notoriously during the Khmelnytski Uprising and such developments as the Russian occupation during World War I and the Russian Revolution that followed took their toll on the Jewish communities in the Borshchiv region Many moved away from the villages and small towns to the big cities in Galicia some communities continued to maintain schools the village of Korolivka had 500 Jewish families compromising about 40 percent of the total population Korolivka had two synagogues and a Jewish boys school; the girls went to other local schools Ukrainian and Polish seventh-graders on a school trip near Bil’che-Zolote the German invasion of the Soviet Union began.Credit: Sokhatskyi MykhailoAmong Korolivka’s Jews were Esther and Shabsy Stermer and the family lived in a big house and had both Ukrainian and Polish neighbors The Jewish community in the nearby village of Bil’che-Zolote was smaller but most of the Jews in Bil’che-Zolote buried their dead in nearby Korolivka.The two communities had family ties two decades after Christos Nicola first began to meet the survivors in the United States and Canada he came to Israel for a visit and we met at a coffee shop at Tel Aviv University where he told Haaretz all about the survivors they connected the people and their stories to the artifacts they left behind but the shoe in particular got him wondering: Who was she – and might she still be alive these survivors and their stories were little known to the world “We Fight to Survive,” which was translated into English and published in that language in 1975 at age 95.) Sol Wexler also set down his story in writing His tale was documented by a team from the United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration at the Kloster Indersdorf children’s displaced persons camp in Germany a number of the cave survivors taped their stories for Steven Spielberg’s Visual History Archive There were also small mentions of cave survivors in the American and Ukrainian press But nobody connected the dots linking the two caves and the people who hid out in them until Nicola found that shoe in 1993 and Open gallery viewThe Stermer family with documentary producer Peter Lane Taylor Also pictured: Sima Dodyk (second from left) brothers Saul and Sam Stermer.Credit: Christos NicolaIn 2003 Nicola and producer Peter Lane Taylor began working on a documentary about the story They showed the survivors and their families slides of the cave and the items found inside which showed names inscribed in Polish on the cave’s wall The children and grandchildren of the survivors had tears in their eyes they had heard stories about the war and life in the caves the children and grandchildren of the survivors explained to Nicola and Taylor even ones with numbers tattooed on their arms they had first physical evidence of the survivors’ presence in the cave – proof that the stories were true The names had been written by Mundik Reibel But he wondered why the survivors’ names were written using the Polish alphabet according to Nicola: “If we didn’t get out the Western world would know we were there.” The cavers didn’t know if they or if the Jews and Judaism in general would survive They didn’t think anyone would understand it Open gallery viewNicola reading the names written in Polish in Priests Grotto.Credit: Stephanie JasperThe winds of hate dark winds of hatred began to start spreading over Europe As the danger became increasingly palpable Esther and her family had their papers ready and planned to leave on a boat from Poland to Canada on September 8 Sol’s father had already moved to the United States a year earlier and had arranged for his family to join him a week after Germany and the Soviet Union signed the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact in which they agreed to partition Eastern Europe between them the USSR invaded Poland too and within weeks an influx of Jewish refugees from western Poland bearing information about the German atrocities reached Borshchiv “We felt the black clouds were blowing our way,” Esther wrote in her memoir so they could travel to the United States through Russia and Japan But their plans to leave were stymied again when the Germans violated the nonaggression pact and invaded Russia thus giving them control over most of Ukraine the Germans established a ghetto and a Judenrat Open gallery viewSol Wexler.Credit: Courtesy of Anna AndlauerBy the time the Soviets arrived some of the Jewish families had dug bunkers under their homes and barns as a precaution the Stermers and some others used these spaces to hide when necessary and send them off to death camps or take them outside town and shoot them on the spot Similar scenes were taking place in other towns in Ukraine “The sadistic criminals particularly enjoyed torturing and killing Jews on Jewish festival days only lone individuals remained; other families disappeared from the roots up,” she grieved but the villages were left to the local police to handle asked once while watching animals in the yard: “How come the dog and the chickens can walk around freely Open gallery viewSaul Stermer with his granddaughter Erin and Cliff visiting the Cave in 2010_ Photo Larisa Chocovskaya.Credit: Larisa ChocovskayaVerteba Cave When the order came in 1942 requiring any remaining Jews in the area to move into the Borshchiv ghetto once and for all Yet some Jews who owned horses and wagons could still work as junk collectors for which purpose they purchased a special badge allowing them to stay in town and move about with relative freedom procured such badges and began looking for a safer hideout who had also been looking for a suitable place for his family to hide ventured with their belongings into the cave on the night of October 28 In total they were 28 people hiding in the first cave Open gallery viewThe entrance to Verteba Cave.Credit: Sokhatskyi Mykhailo Open gallery viewSokhatskyi documents a large pot during the 2023 season in Verteba Cave.Credit: Courtesy of Sokhatskyi MykhailoVerteba Cave was in the valley just next to Bil’che-Zolote thanks in part to its stalagmites and stalactites and had attracted both locals and people from all over Europe There were maps of the cave and its tunnels Esther recalls in her memoir how a teacher told her about the cave saying that archaeologists had found ancient artifacts and even human remains inside She even remembered hearing about a pot as big as a barrel being found there A similar pot was found inside the cave this past spring Today the cave is a well-known archaeological site and contains its own little museum which is preparing an exhibition about the lives of the survivors in one of the galleries where they resided the fugitives had to slide through the narrow cave mouth on their backsides Initially they used ropes when moving around the cave’s vast system of tunnels so they wouldn’t get lost but gradually they learned their way around A dental technician even arranged a working station in the cave Then the residents took to creating light using small bottles filled with kerosene They became nocturnal: sleeping during the day and active at night and each tried to adjust to the cave life as best they could Open gallery viewEmpty medicine bottles in Verteba.Credit: Sokhatskyi MykhailoEach family had a designated person responsible for bringing them food and provisions from the outside They even obtained a tin stove for the families to cook on although poor air circulation in the cave made meant fumes were a problem Over time they found a solution for that too people believed spirits and ghosts lived in ruins and in caves Now we could see that there were none here The devils and the evil spirits were outside not in the grotto,’ wrote Esther Stermer in her memoir They found places where water dripped from the stalactites and down the walls of the cave and collected it in small bottles and pots It was easier in winter because they could melt snow There were also other dwellers in the cave: bats “the children were the light in the darkness”: For example thereby breaking up the monotony and relieving the anxious atmosphere inside the cave As the winter grew to a close and spring approached the cave-dwellers began to worry that with the coming of warmer days They decided to move deeper inside and dug another exit in case anyone discovered them and blocked the main entrance a German near the cave entrance noticed some potatoes It turned out that someone had slipped during the winter and the bag of potatoes they were carrying had torn with her husband Herold Dodyk.Credit: Christos NicolaThe cavers are discovered The Gestapo was informed and several days later the people inside the cave heard German-language shouting from outside: “We found the place.” They rushed to hide deeper in the tunnels In their interviews with the Visual History Archive and their conversations with Christos Nicola Sam Stermer and others described how Esther confronted the Gestapo before she managed to break away from them: “Do you think that unless you kill us Leave us here.” Sonia thinks her grandmother did that in order to buy the others more time to hide recalled in his interview how he drew courage from her words As the Gestapo was leading the prisoners out of the cave Open gallery viewA spoon left in Verteba.Credit: Sokhatskyi MykhailoWhen Esther and the other two rejoined the remaining cavers in the depths her son Saul was found unresponsive in the dirt All made for the second exit and fled in different directions into the wintry cold Esther described carrying her unresponsive son for miles as the wind and rain beat at her face It was for the better that the remaining Jews fled the cave because the Gestapo sent the local police back to search for more But all they found were the possessions the cavers had left behind watched by villagers who had heard the strange tale of the Jews in the cave The five Jews caught by the Gestapo were handed over to the local police for execution because when the Jews learned of the transfer they offered money to the police chief to let the five detainees go they say: Five bodies would be exhumed from the Jewish cemetery in Bil’che-Zolote in advance of the planned execution the prisoners would be brought to the cemetery and the executioner would shoot in the air – and let them flee when the chief of police realized that Leiche lest she be recognized and the strange truth emerge Out of five bullets supposed to be shot into the air the last two were aimed at Sol’s mother and little brother The survivors who escaped Verteba Cave roamed for weeks in a field that belonged to the parish priest The cave had only one small opening and had to be entered feet first they crawled deeper into the tunnel – which opened into a large hall Beyond the hall they found a large tunnel suitable for their camp they found underground freshwater lakes and no traces of human habitation a group of Jews left for the Priest’s Grotto Nissen gave his horse and wagon to a friend and disappeared with the others into the darkness Open gallery viewChris Nicola examining a lamp found in Priests Grotto Cave in 2010.Credit: Fabio BurtinAs they grew accustomed to the dark each family settled in a different place in the tunnel They designated a place near the water and far from their sleeping areas for cooking Nicola had hoped to elucidate where exactly every family resided in the cave and what was where but the surviving survivors had just been kids back then Lane Taylor and Nicola documented all the artifacts they found photographed and mapped the location of their finds Like in archaeological research of ancient cultures the pottery turned out to be a valuable tool when Nicola showed them the pottery fragments the survivors recognized the dishes that their families had brought to the cave; each had china with a different design Open gallery viewPottery shards from Priest’s Grotto.Credit: Peter Lane TaylorPriest’s Grotto had better air circulation than Verteba buying them from friendly farmers or crafting whatever was necessary Saul made a wooden sleigh and Nissen made Esther a wooden spinning wheel for flax The Stermer brothers even stole a millstone from a resident of Bil’che-Zolote who they believed had bilked them in the past That was the basis on which they built a mill inside the cave; thus the families in the cave could grind the grain into flour which was a lifesaver under the circumstances when Saul Stermer talked with Christos Nicola for the first time his first question was: “Is my millstone still there?” Nicola laughed: “It weighs 100 pounds; it’s not going anywhere.” Open gallery viewA cup found in Priest's Grotto.Credit: Peter Lane Taylor Open gallery viewChris Nicola and the Stermers' millstone.Credit: Stefanie JasperAfter some months in the Priest’s Grotto the Jews were discovered by hostile locals who came with shovels and filled in the single entrance to the cave with soil presumably being disinclined to squeeze their way in feet-first and risk encountering resistance from the Jews inside They presumably thought the Jews inside would starve to death the survivors later rationalized in their memoirs and interviews dug another exit and created a camouflaged covering for it They also reduced their night missions to the bare minimum even though they were always hungry – cautiously eating only enough to stave off starvation and keeping aside provisions for the months ahead not knowing how long they would have to stay in hiding explained the children and grandchildren of the survivors they had heard stories about the war and about life in the caves Saul and Sam Stermer both described how they and about 10 others would pilfer potatoes and spend the night running back and forth between the fields and the cave and blocked it from the inside for good measure the potatoes were piled up and the corn was hung to dry for grinding into flour that was used to make mamaliga porridge “The bowl of porridge tasted better than the most delicious food today,” Esther wrote each cave-dweller had specific responsibilities Esther’s duties included tracking the phases of the moon They had a prayer book and would observe the holy days The families stayed in the cave until April 1944 by a Jewish boy who had survived under the protection of a local farmer after living in the dark for hundreds of days They had become physically accustomed to living in the dark the daylight felt like pins being stuck in their eyes they found the locals gazing at them with surprise “They hadn’t thought any Jews were still alive.” One gave them cookies or hiding in forests or silos or wherever they could all this time Open gallery viewSaul and Sam Stermer in 2010 next to a well where their mother's birth house once stood in Bil'che-Zolote.Credit: Sokhatskyi MykhailoThe Stermers celebrated their freedom by cooking verenike dumplings and eating their fill The war was continuing in the West and the end of the fighting locally didn’t mean the bloodshed had stopped together with Yosel Dodyk and his wife (Norman Kittner’s biological parents) none of the Jews who sheltered in the caves talked about it in public and they left behind the possessions that kept them alive – for fear they might need to hide there again one day the Stermers and their extended family jumped at the opportunity where they stayed in DP camps until late 1949 Sam Stermer and Mykhailo Sokhatskyi at the entrance to Priest’s Grotto while filming “No Place on Earth” in 2010.Credit: Courtesy of Mykhailo Sokhatskyi Open gallery viewChristos Nicola with Saul Stermer (L) and Sam Stermer.Credit: Courtesy of Christos Nicola When Sol Wexler climbed out of the cave he looked so bad that when two drunken Russian soldiers noticed him they wanted to shoot him to put him out of his misery he told the staff at the DP camp; he repeated the story later in his interview with the Shoah Foundation His survival story was also later mentioned by the historian Anna Andlauer who published a book on the camp and the fate of the children Wexler joined his father in New York in 1946 opened a restaurant and became a stockbroker But the memory of his mother and brother’s murders never ceased to haunt him Another survivor from the cave was Ulo Barad he would be the only survivor of his immediate family he fled to the forest and when his aunt Yetta Dodyk learned that he was alive the cave dwellers found him and brought him back with them including the famous Edison Hotel in New York’s theater district Open gallery viewChris Nicola with Ulo Barad.Credit: Courtesy of Christos NicolaIn her memoir Esther writes: “If the cave was now in the hands of the Allies it would be possible to make a film about our life in this grotto which would have surpassed the fantasies of screenwriters in showing how human beings can survive under such conditions But now the area is under Soviet control.” Christos Nicola and Peter Lane Taylor made such a film National Geographic broke Nicola’s tale of the survivors in 2004 Nicola and Lane Taylor published a children’s book telling their tale “The Secret of Priest’s Grotto: A Holocaust Survival Story,” leading to the production in 2013 of the 84-minute long documentary that Esther thought could never be made: “No Place on Earth.” Six million Jews were murdered in the Holocaust Hearing the stories drove it home for Christos Nicola: There were six million personal stories of parents Open gallery viewCredit: Christos Nicola / Kar-Ben Publishing“I’m very happy Nicola found the survivors documented their story and brought it to the public so that our current generations will know about the horrors that happened during the war so it never happens again,” Sokhatskyi said Some credited Nissen Stermer’s military training: He had served in the Polish cavalry before the war Others ascribed it to the strong matriarchal leadership of Esther Stermer the survivors visited the caves with their families and friends with Christos Nicola Norman Kittner had been just a toddler while living in the cave When they reached the area in the cave where the Kittners used to sleep could hear the family reciting Kaddish – the prayer recited by mourners Open gallery viewEsther's tombstone.Credit: Christos Nicola HOT: » What kind of news would you like to see more of? 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