'#' : location.hash;window._cf_chl_opt.cOgUQuery = location.search === '' && location.href.slice(0 location.href.length - window._cf_chl_opt.cOgUHash.length).indexOf('?') !== -1 '?' : location.search;if (window.history && window.history.replaceState) {var ogU = location.pathname + window._cf_chl_opt.cOgUQuery + window._cf_chl_opt.cOgUHash;history.replaceState(null "\/happy-birthday-mom-2\/?__cf_chl_rt_tk=kRoUyoggE4WwVZUmNHkmafTaYWduePXbwqw_meBQsbM-1746500081-1.0.1.1-KYOsQy6dWPUsAZFh2O6jIzVDjkFQV6ZuGPTJCy7q7RM" + window._cf_chl_opt.cOgUHash);cpo.onload = function() {history.replaceState(null ogU);}}document.getElementsByTagName('head')[0].appendChild(cpo);}()); but Lettie Teague ignores their withering glances on a taste-a-thon that uncovers some truly admirable bottles New York-based Lettie Teague is a multiple James Beard Award-winning writer and author of three books on wine She served as the wine editor at Food & Wine for over a decade before joining The Wall Street Journal where she currently writes two weekly columns "On Wine" and "Uncorking the City." "\/plague-and-memory\/?__cf_chl_rt_tk=gFBKvtdMc4e2CNFAs1XRc9dPRq5DWoy0deCytlVzmi4-1746500086-1.0.1.1-A3AONFH1xRHFuYYM1_bKOjuzZj60Wg0RvR_hAaHW_0Q" + window._cf_chl_opt.cOgUHash);cpo.onload = function() {history.replaceState(null