Writing by Pavel Polityuk; Editing by Sharon Singleton
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The battle for the strategic outcrop has shaken the fishing village of Vylkove
driven away after months of heavy bombardment
View image in fullscreenSmoke rises from Snake Island in this satellite image taken on 29 June
Photograph: Planet Labs Pbc/ReutersThe fight for Snake Island has strategic value
but most important it is of national significance for all Ukrainians
especially in their country’s darkest hour
on the Ukrainian side of the Danube River and the closest inhabited area to the Island
the battle to regain control over this outcrop has upended the lives of inhabitants
The intense fighting on the island between Russian and Ukrainian forces
in some cases opening cracks in their walls
has been fishing the waters of the Black Sea since he was a boy
so when they start bombing Snake Island it was very loud around here,” he said
View image in fullscreenYuri Suslov
43: ‘It’s a scary situation but I don’t think the Russians are going to attack us.’ Photograph: Alessio Mamo/The GuardianYuri knows Vylkove’s channels like the back of his hand
he navigates the narrow waterways that in the summer months resemble those of Vietnam or Cambodia
Reeds and pile dwellings line the edge of the river as children play in the water
the city’s principal means of transportation
Vylkove’s waterways that flow to the mouth of the Danube
giving access to the Black Sea in the direction of Snake Island
but I don’t think the Russians are going to attack us,” said Yuri
Some windows cracked in older homes with wooden frames.”
View image in fullscreenVylkove is known as Ukrainian Venice because of its water channels. Photograph: Alessio Mamo/The GuardianView image in fullscreenThe town survives almost exclusively on fishing
Photograph: Alessio Mamo/The GuardianBut worse than the blasts has been the economic impact of the fight over Snake Island
fishing is forbidden – a nightmare for a town known as the “Ukrainian Venice” that survives almost exclusively on fishing
“This town belongs to the fishermen and they were not allowed to even sail out,” said Svitlana
“And fishing is their main source of income
almost 25% of local residents were involved in tourism
about 80% of locals who were involved in water tourism or fishing are suffering
after a Ukrainian soldier posted on the island told the attacking Russian warship: “Go fuck yourself”
The phrase has become one of the most popular Ukrainian slogans of resistance, with the Ukrainian postal service issuing a stamp showing a Ukrainian soldier giving the finger to the Russian cruiser Moskva
Ukrainian troops have attempted to retake the island several times
“There were no official tourists on Snake Island,” said Svitlana
“You could get a permission from the border guards and go there
but frankly it was quite complicated and expensive.”
The only people authorised to visit the island were military personnel on patrol
and a handful of fortunate divers who would regularly survey the area to admire the 49 species of fish inhabiting the waters and wrecks of military vehicles and vessels
such as the Soviet submarine “Pike” which lies at a depth of 35 meters
a reminder that this place has been a regular theatre of war
diving instructor and founder of a diving school in Odesa
said he could not count how many times he had been to the island
“There was one time when I spent there an entire season with a scientists’ crew
It is probably the best diving spot in Ukraine
There are some prominent discoveries – for instance
And now the historians are really worried about that object’s fate.’’
Today the sea around Snake Island is infested with thousands of mines dropped by the Russians
a problem many believe will further impede a return to normality in Vylkove
even if for now Snake Island is once again in Ukrainian hands
said authorities were working on a de-mining plan using robots
but it would be months before it could be put into operation
View image in fullscreenA sealed-off beach in Odesa
The coastal town has been under periodic bombardment by Russian forces
Photograph: Alessio Mamo/The GuardianRussia claimed it had pulled out from the island as a “gesture of goodwill” to show it was not obstructing UN attempts to open a humanitarian corridor allowing grain to be shipped from Ukraine
A Russian military attack on Friday on the town of Serhiivka
has been interpreted by Ukrainian authorities as payback for Russian troops being forced from Snake Island the day before
died after two Russian missiles struck a multi-storey block of flats and a recreation centre
but also in the fact that controlling it implies holding a military stronghold in the Black Sea
told Ukrainian TV that Snake Island’s recapture was a “huge victory”
He said that after Ukraine destroyed Russia’s Moskva warship
the Russians wanted to turn Snake Island into an anti-aircraft defence hub and use it to control the entire western part of the Black Sea and launch a land invasion
“Now the Russians cannot do anything in this area of the sea
shell Ukrainian cities with missiles from their ships,” Denysenko said
people know very well that their fate is linked to that of Snake Island and that Ukraine has won this battle – but not the war
“Many people think that Snake Island is just a useless rock in the middle of the sea,” said Svitlana
And for months we have been paying the price for our proximity to the island
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