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2011 file photo John Galliano leaves a Paris court house
MILAN (AP) — British designer John Galliano is leaving the Maison Margiela fashion house after 10 years as artistic director
“John made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world,’’ said Renzo Rosso
chairman of Italy’s OTB Group that owns Maison Margiela
Rosso said the last decade “of incredibly intense work
have laid the foundations for the future.”
I am forever grateful for this safe space to create
and his undying support,’’ Galliano said in a statement
Galliano made his runway debut with Maison Margiela in January 2015
with a small couture collection to a carefully selected audience of about 100 in London
It was the start of a comeback for the flamboyant designer who was dismissed from Christian Dior after he was caught on video making an antisemitic comment
Givenchy hired Galliano as a young head designer in 1995
before Christian Dior brought him on as creative director the next year
his star rose with theatrical runway shows
2024Courtesy of Pierre Suu / Getty ImagesSave this storySaveSave this storySaveOn Friday night
I clinked glasses with Renzo Rosso at an Art Basel party in Miami Beach
The billionaire founder of Milan-based fashion conglomerate Only The Brave was in a reflective mood
He was in town to celebrate the anniversary of the Pelican
a beachside boutique hotel he bought 30 years ago
But it seemed like the Italian tycoon had other properties on his mind
and Marni in his portfolio told me that big changes are coming to fashion
and multitudes of fans commented with a tidal wave of affection
The letter does not read like it was written by someone who is planning to retire
though it also doesn’t shed specific light on his future plans
only acknowledging (somewhat archly) “The rumors…”
I take this time to express my intense gratitude
Rosso brought Galliano to Margiela in 2014
ending the designer’s time in the wilderness following a 2011 anti-semitic scandal that rocked the one-time untouchable mastermind
Galliano hailed Rosso for throwing him a lifeline
“the opportunity to once again find my creative voice when I had become voiceless,” and noted that he is 14 years sober as of today
The normally press-shy Galliano covered several other topics in his lengthy statement. He described Martin Margiela encouraging him to take the job, celebrated his unnamed muses, and hailed his atelier team and their dedication to “slow and ethical fashion.” “Your outstanding knowledge and ability to communicate a line with feeling and emotion is the heart of all creation. Together, we are driven by beauty—the quest for balance, construction, and the lightness of a feather,” he wrote.
He also offered his thoughts on cancel culture, writing (somewhat unsurprisingly) that the fashion industry is at its best through collective support rather than judgement. Emphasis his: “For God is in all of us. NOT when we cancel each other out.”
And at the end of a year defined by changes throughout high fashion design studios, Galliano joins the job market as a top-ranked free agent. Among his fans, hopes are high that he’s the dark horse candidate for Chanel or his old perch at Dior, though returning to his namesake John Galliano brand, currently gathering dust at LVMH, is surely near the top of his list.
For now, only Rosso knows who will take on the challenge of following Galliano at Margiela.
Maison Margiela employees were told of Galliano’s departure on Wednesday
the morning of the company’s Christmas party
It’s unlikely Margiela was eager to get rid of Galliano
as the brand experienced significant growth throughout his decade at the helm
WWD reported Margiela increased its annual revenue from about 100 million euros to 500 million during Galliano’s tenure
That’s not even mentioning the house’s cultural impact
like the current ubiquity of the house’s Tabi shoe design
Zendaya in Maison Margiela by John Galliano at the 2024 Met Gala
Rosso and Galiano emphasized that the parting is an amicable one
“As we are parting ways with this beautiful house
and my soul smiles so I want to take this time to express it.” He spoke of Rosso
“In inviting me to assume the position of artistic director in the house that Martin built
most precious gift: The opportunity to once again find my creative voice when I had become voiceless...Renzo stood up there and did it
whether it was right or wrong he did give one a second chance
The second quote is in reference to Galliano’s very public 2011 downfall after a drunken
The incident cost Galliano his job as creative director of Dior and left him a pariah in the industry
the designer has been fighting his way back into the fold
The process began when he became the creative director of Margiela in 2014 and it seems that 2024 was officially the year the wider world decided to forgive him for his past transgressions
unwilling to let such talent fall by the wayside
Galliano spoke more about his past in a note on Instagram
referencing his mistakes while revealing that he is 14 years sober as of Wednesday
if that is a nice coincidence or a planned convergence
Galliano during his time as the creative director of Dior in 2005
Margiela has not announced a replacement just yet
and there’s no telling what Galliano may do next
It isn’t farfetched to think that Galliano could be moving to one of the other currently vacant seats in the fashion industry
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Star designer John Galliano is set to exit Maison Margiela after 10 years leading the OTB-owned brand
The designer confirmed the news with a lengthy statement on Instagram
“Today is the day I saw goodbye to Maison Margiela… I am forever grateful for this safe space to create and build a new family that supports me with courage and dignity,” he wrote
founded by the ultra-secretive Martin Margiela
gave Galliano a platform for easing back into the spotlight as he sought redemption after a drug- and alcohol-fuelled rant saw him ousted from Dior in 2011
Margiela’s business steadily climbed in recent years as Galliano infused its collections with campy
deconstructed designs and a gender-fluid sensibility as well as pushing the craftsmanship and creative impact of its “Artisanal” line to new heights
Sales rose 22 percent in 2023 even as the wider luxury market slowed
An ultra-viral January 2024 show further cemented Galliano’s legacy as one of fashion’s greatest-ever storytellers
as history-drenched couture characters haunted a misty show space under a bridge in Paris in glassy mask-like makeup by Pat McGrath
“Working with John was one of the most significant and impactful experiences of my life
enriching me culturally and allowing me to bring some of that vision and culture to the rest of the group," said OTB chairman Renzo Rosso
“Our industry has a habit of thinking in decades and these 10 years of incredibly intense work
have laid the foundations for the future of Maison Margiela which I am very excited about.”
Galliano did not elaborate on his future plans
instead saying that “when the time is right
But sources familiar with the matter say his former employer LVMH
has sought a rapprochement with the designer in recent months as it reshuffles its creative ranks
One of the conglomerate’s biggest fashion brands
has yet to name a new womenswear designer after Kim Jones stepped down from the role in October
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a native and resident of Galliano passed away on Tuesday
Rosemary is survived by her sons: Randall Allemand (Dinah) and André Allemand (Krystal); grandchildren: Lance Allemand (Amy)
Joshua Allemand (Monica); great grandchildren: Hilary Boudreaux (Mason)
Charlotte Allemand; great great grandchild: Caroline Boudreaux; and sister: Sadie Dantin
Allemand was preceded in death by her husband: Nolan Paul Allemand; parents: Rapheal Jollissaint Galiano and Euphroise Ledet Galiano; brothers: Royce
and Lipton Galiano; and sisters: Ena Falgout
Family and friends are invited to attend a visitation at St
Joseph Catholic Church in Galliano on Saturday
Her Funeral Mass will begin at 11:00 am with procession following to burial in Cheramie Cemetery
Rosemary’s family would like to thank the staff of The Suite’s at Sugar Mill Point and Agape Hospice for their compassion and care provided
Falgout Funeral Home entrusted with arrangements
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There will be no follow-up to his triumphant
a fashion show that captured the world’s attention like absolutely no other
He exits Maison Margiela at his creative peak
“The challenge we set ourselves — the results of it have been to build up on the DNA Martin [Margiela] left at the house
It’s really the blood that courses through our creative veins and a possible blueprint,” he says
Galliano devised an internal glossary of terms for the specifics of his techniques — techniques like décortiqué (to strip something of its outer layers) or reclica (which expands on the concept of replica
formerly used by the house to brand reproductions of vintage finds)
These were ideas grounded in Margiela’s foundational work
but they could only have come from the genius hands of Galliano
he reflects on some of the indelible moments he created — on the runway
“Make it your own,” Martin Margiela told Galliano when he took over the house
the bride wore red in the SS15 show’s final look
The first Maison Margiela Artisanal collection was one of intent
It was after a wonderful tea I had with Martin
“Take what you will from the DNA of the house
protect yourself and make it your own.” You know
who was very generous with his time and his recollections and the philosophy behind the label — boy
Doubts I had — whether I was the right person
whether I could do it — after that sentence
I was trying to develop a Margiela attitude for the girls
This was when you first saw that walk with a character in mind
which is a technique through which familiar spontaneous gestures are freeze-framed in the cuts and styling of garments and accessories
It is the unconscious glamour of slipping into a T-shirt
Model Fei Fei Sun wears a Maison Margiela Artisanal dress coat and heels by John Galliano
Bourgeois cutting is a way of capturing through cutting or styling the blasé movements and signals associated with a mid-century bourgeois fashion mentality and approach to the art of dressing
unfinished moments that happen during the process of the work
I think we also called it “ripped to reveal”
It’s almost like you ripped the outer layer to reveal the dress that’s morphing through
Near left: I wove a little story around her
She finds herself sitting on a park bench with her lover
and seeing her life through fragments — a story of love
I imagined that she stood up — it would have been like a park bench that you find in Hyde Park — and as she gets up to walk
her lover notices that there’s these huge white stripes painted across the back of her coat
because the pair of them had unconsciously sat on a bench that had just been freshly painted
Near right: I collaborated for the first time at Margiela with an artist here — Benjamin Shine
haunting face — like cigarette smoke almost
He didn’t really sew anything; it’s all coaxed into place with an iron
we had to catch everything down onto the dress coat
Far right: The idea is that this little Fair Isle could have been a hand-me-down from grandpa to… on and on and on
And each person it was handed down to would have spontaneously customised it
It’s a man’s coat cut away to the spine and you can see the underdress coming through — the blooms and the tulle
Katy had an album coming out and we embroidered its name
with the eye slightly hovering over her own eye
We were doing a lot of embroideries at that point and you could only really get it when you saw the three layers together
It was a bit like working with filters on an iPhone
Dressing in haste is about the amazing looks you can come up with when not conscious — dressing in the dark
You grab whatever was lying around and start layering it up
Some are quite disastrous and some are quite inspiring
I wanted to reproduce through a print the high shine of a plastic rain coat worn over a man’s coat
Other pieces were made with light-reflective fabrics that when they walked under a certain light
became multi-coloured and not what they seemed when they first walked on
The monster trainers were made with Reebok
Nomadic cutting is a manner of cutting garments that enables clothes to migrate around the body
or a little bustier dress that’s cut into a cape
What had happened was I had started to fit on boys and girls
I introduced Thomas [Riguelle] and Valentine [Charrasse]
So I would fit on Thomas and do the fitting of that same coat on Valentine
and if I felt they looked like they both owned the piece
It’s like camouflage in a very abstract way
The purest point where it started from was Martin ripping a pocket of a pair of denim jeans that had been washed; he ripped the pocket up and it revealed the original state and colour of the fabric
This is something that I’m still using even up to now
the idea of cutting these holes in different rhythms
you can reduce something like a trench to have the nonchalance of a string vest
and then even into winking or dégradés of these fabric sequins
where they weren’t always completely cut out
Recicla is a take on upcycling and recycling and it was a word we created
Recicla meant using some charity shop finds and I would cut them and mix them up
and honestly you could not tell the difference
It meant we could sell it around the world and it was a joyous moment
because it kind of inspired the business side of things; we actually found a solution to produce it
as you can see — it would say the provenance
This was inspired by tango and one of the trips I made back in the day to Argentina
Everywhere they took me it was souvenir tango
I remember turning up to a dilapidated house with three or four members of my team with sketchbooks
We went up the stairs — with each step another step kind of crumbled away
the roof had fallen in and the moon was streaming through and all these wild cats were running around
a 90-year-old gentleman with silver-grey hair and what must have been his hip-hop granddaughter
I think we were quite blessed not to have taken pictures
because that visual — that memory — sometimes is even richer
A close-up of Ivy Getty in her wedding dress
This was a very grand moment — Ivy Getty and her bridesmaids
The dress is made up of all broken mirrors that are reassembled a little bit like stained glass
We actually worked with someone who did work in that way
because all the light just refracted off of her
but they were all 3D printed; they looked like sandblasted stones from a beach
It actually looked very aggressive and sharp
Bella Hadid in a Maison Margiela Artisanal design by John Galliano
but there are beautiful things that go on there
It’s all part of the thing that drives us to deconstruction
I think one of the reasons why both Martin and myself and anyone in the ’80s was deconstructing was to learn how to construct
I think that’s probably where I would have discovered the beauty
you want everyone to know that and see that
That was part of that whole deconstruction movement
discovering things that we valued so highly — the petites mains
the tailor marks and also learning how to create all that
This happened just as we were coming out of the pandemic
There was this feeling that people wanted to be more physical again
but I didn’t want to drop all the stuff I’d learnt through film and digital and live mixing
This was the first attempt at doing a live show but including film work and theatre
with words to lip sync; they had entrances and exits
And often they were acting to just a camera in very intimate and challenging scenes
Then it was mixed and shown simultaneously at the same time above
and very Margiela I thought — that whole backstaginess
Their characters are always in the collection in some shape or form
but we’re yet to find out who the love child is
because they can measure those things today
and how it had engaged all those kids into trying to do the makeup themselves
Inspiring them to put on trench coats back to front and be proud
and they too could do their look and walk like Leon
We worked on Kim’s dress simultaneously with the collection
although it looks like lace; it’s tooled metal
Each piece is dipped in silver and it’s all mounted like you would a cabochon
she will stand there for hours while one is working
and she’s so respectful of the partnership involved
glided into the ballroom where we were working in a Givenchy couture dress [of Galliano’s own design
She wanted to both open the Met and close the Met in JG
When she got on that red carpet — the shapes
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Published: Mar 29, 2025written by Anastasiia Kirpalov
The creative genius of John Galliano rose four decades ago but managed to remain relevant and exciting
He is known for being scandalous and provocative
Galliano seems to have redeemed his reputation
Read on to learn more about John Galliano’s creative genius and the concerns surrounding his personality
The colorful and diverse life of Gibraltar’s cityscapes and nature
as well as the streets filled with sailors from all over the world
Galliano’s mother was Spanish and deeply loved traditional and colorful Spanish fashion and dances
She made her passion known not only from her own wardrobe but from that of her young son
she dressed him in a white suit with gold and red rosary around the boy’s neck
such wardrobe choices were not appreciated by the crowd of working-class kids from his London school
Galliano was relentlessly and violently bullied—for his suits, his foreign roots, and later, his sexuality and interest in clothes
was not too happy about his son’s interests but made no attempts to enforce his own view on them
he was admitted into Central Saint Martins College
the institution famous for its quality training and a list of world-famous alumni
In Central Saint Martins, Galliano got rid of his mother’s suits, preferring a simple uniform of jeans, t-shirts, and combat boots. Professors described him as quiet and shy, immersed in books and archives. In fact, Galliano’s work with historical sources became the basis for his usual way of creating collections
Referencing history was not exactly new for fashion designers
but Galliano’s boldness and intensity brought a fresh start into the stagnating domain of fashion
Galliano presented his graduate collection in 1984
It was inspired by a pro-royalist youth subculture of post-revolutionary France
young men emulated the excessive opulence of the ruling class through exaggerated proportions of their dress and exalted mannerisms
The collection was so impressive it was immediately bought by the London department store Browns
Galliano set up his shop window at Browns and sold his first garment to none other than the famous singer Diana Ross
Almost immediately, Galliano became a sensation in the world of fashion. In 1989, he moved to Paris in search of better funding opportunities. In 1996, the designer was appointed chief designer to the legendary Givenchy fashion house
becoming the first British designer in charge of a French brand
Critics were concerned about the young designer’s respect towards his predecessors
yet Galliano managed to maintain the spirit of the old Givenchy while still doing his own thing
His first couture collection for the house was a mixture of references to 19th-century aristocratic portraiture
and Egypt (often up to the point of being accused of cultural appropriation)
which wore outrageous history-inspired costumes and makeup
ignoring gender and social conventions of their time
was the first designer to arrange live streaming of his show in 2010
catwalks turned to stages and models into performers
Galliano’s early shows were too shocking for many
In his debut collection titled The Ludic Game
he splashed models with water before sending them on the catwalk and gave some of them fish to hurl at the unsuspecting audience
Galliano’s own tradition of dressing up for every show finale continues the theatrical tradition of his work
The designer’s own outfits often serve as the final note in the entire narrative of the show
Galliano insists that he never tries to attract attention to his persona through his costumes – rather
the collection he’s working on shapes his own preferences for a short while
His finale outfits are usually put together at the last minute and are rarely custom
After Galliano’s expulsion from Dior (more about this below)
the designer’s future seemed ruined forever
he was appointed creative director at the Maison Martin Margiela house
Galliano spent the following decade keeping a relatively low profile until the time came for his new grand oeuvre
The show was set under one of the Parisian bridges in a decoration resembling an old French bistro as if abandoned a hundred years ago and left intact
created by the famous makeup artist Pat McGrath
created a haunting sense of decaying glamor and past opulence
and slight discomfort caused by something long-dead suddenly coming to life
Galliano’s principal inspiration came from the photographs of French-Hungarian photographer Brassai
Brassai spent his 1930s photographing the dark underbelly of Paris, with its brothels and underground bars filled with characters you would not want to meet on an empty street
Galliano offered a similar combination of glamor and danger
with some models walking like broken porcelain dolls and others moving like tugs crawling through the night
the show clearly intended to protest against the overwhelming presence of the internet and social media in the fashion industry
Initiating a conversation on Galliano would be incorrect without the inevitable mention of the many controversies and scandals surrounding the designer
Apart from accusations of cultural appropriation and exploitation of the unprivileged groups (his 2000 collection for Dior was inspired by the Parisian homeless
one occasion was so grave it almost resulted in a prison sentence
Anastasiia is an art historian and curator based in Bucharest, Romania. Previously she worked as a museum assistant, caring for a collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art. Her main research objectives are early-20th-century art and underrepresented artists of that era. She travels frequently and has lived in 8 different countries for the past 28 years.
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Print John Galliano joined the luxury French fashion house in 2014
a few years after he was fired from Dior and his namesake label for anti-semitic and racist remarks.The designer did not say what he’s up to next
and Maison Margiela has not yet announced his successor.Galliano made a subdued runway debut with Maison Margiela in January 2015 and capped his tenure with a widely celebrated show in January that also featured viral
Maison Margiela’s creative director John Galliano
the iconoclastic couturier who previously headed artistry at Givenchy and Christian Dior
is leaving his post at the luxury French fashion house after a decade-long run
whose OTB Group is the parent company to Maison Margiela
Archives
In a lengthy statement
the celebrated and controversial artist said he was grateful for “this life-saving creative moment and the safe space we have built together” and the “second chance” that Rosso and Martin Margiela gave him
“For I am 14 years old today — 14 years sober
Living a life better than I ever dreamt possible.”
Although Galliano did not say what he plans to do next, the flamboyant and theatrical designer said he would share details in due time. Maison Margiela has not yet disclosed who will succeed Galliano, but the company has seen exponential growth in its luxury business since his appointment in 2014. Sales increased by 24% in 2022 and 23% in 2023, Vogue reported.
“The rumors... Everyone wants to know, and everyone wants to dream,” he wrote. “When the time is right, all will be revealed. For now. I take this time to express my immense gratitude. I continue to atone, and I will never stop dreaming. I, too, need to dream.”
Image
Every time I think of my old idea of midlife — that dreary pasture full of drab linens — laughter bubbles out of me
Rihanna and Katy Perry for other red-carpet events
Galliano reflected on his time at Maison Margiela — formerly Maison Martin Margiela — and how he was given the keys to the kingdom by its ultra-private namesake
who told him “take what you will from the DNA of the House
View this post on Instagram A post shared by John Galliano (@jgalliano)
most precious gift he gave me was the opportunity to once again find my creative voice when I had become voiceless
and I better understood the all-consuming act of creativity.” In front of Rosso and Margiela
Galliano said he had an epiphany and was “ready.”
“I would surround myself with like-minded people
strong people who shared the same work ethic
I informed Renzo I would take him up on his kind offer
but my recovery would have to come first — and it did,” he wrote
I am forever grateful for this safe space to create and build a new family that supports me with courage and dignity
Although little had changed in the industry then
my perspective on it has radically shifted
I begin to see changes all around me: compassion and empathy.”
John Galliano to Vanity Fair: ‘I was made to believe I wasn’t right’
“I’ll readily admit I’m demanding and difficult to run with when challenged
“This is when the family — the fashion industry — is at its best when we collectively support each other
and help one another see the error of our ways
to re-educate ourselves from the past — for it is societally learnt — to share
“Sales rose 22% in 2023 even as the wider luxury market slowed.”
The reformed designer on Wednesday touted “slow and ethical fashion” and its influence, as well as the design house’s sociopolitical messaging that he said centers trans and queer rights, gender equality in the workplace, anti-racism and mental health advocacy.
Climate & Environment
Our discarded clothing continues to clog waterways
char the skies with toxic smoke and ruin places where other people live
“I celebrate the genderless collections we now produce
reinforced by how they are brought and supported
represent diversity and individuality,” he wrote in his statement
“I celebrate the magical relationships with my muses
who challenge me to create safe spaces where we can dream and make believe
All my muses have battled society’s norms and restrictions on gender and body identity
He also indicated a desire to “celebrate the joy” he found in the ways he communicated creatively
embracing cultures that celebrate fashion through theater
In a statement to the Associated Press, Rosso lauded Galliano for making Maison Margiela “the most cutting-edge couture house in the world.” He added that the last decade “of incredibly intense work, amazing shows and installations, extraordinary beautiful product, have laid the foundations for the future.”
Nardine Saad is a former staff writer for the Los Angeles Times who covered breaking entertainment news, trending culture topics, celebrities and their kin. She joined The Times in 2010 as a MetPro trainee and has reported from homicide scenes, flooded canyons, red carpet premieres and award shows.
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Over the summer, speculation first emerged that the designer was planning to leave Margiela and potentially return to LVMH, Dior’s parent company, to either rejoin Dior or return to his namesake label, which he sold to LVMH when he joined Dior in 1996. (It’s worth noting that there are no public job openings at the moment at Dior, where Maria Grazia Chiuri leads women’s and Kim Jones leads men’s.)
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I take this time to express my immense gratitude
I continue to atone and will never stop dreaming.”
(His redemption journey was charted in the documentary High and Low: John Galliano
released in March this year on Amazon Prime)
beloved of art and fashion insiders under incredibly private founder Martin Margiela
enriching me culturally and allowing me to bring some of that vision and culture to the rest of the Group," said Renzo Rosso
chairman of Maison Margiela owner OTB Group in a statement released today
“I feel privileged to have worked with two legends like Martin [Margiela] and John
Martin made this house a reference and an icon
John made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world.”
Galliano’s cultural impact and technical and inventive Margiela creations have had a halo effect on the brand as a whole, Rosso told Vogue Business in a recent interview
OTB took full ownership of the brand in 2006
and the label was run by an anonymous team (one that for a time included Bottega Veneta creative director Matthieu Blazy) until Galliano’s appointment
but Margiela sales grew 23 per cent in 2023
sales grew 24 per cent in the 2021-2022 period
An example of Galliano’s impact is that the Tabi
the iconic Margiela shoe originally launched in 1988
has become ubiquitous on the streets of Paris
New York and other major fashion capitals in recent years since he’s boosted brand awareness
The shoe even became the subject of a viral story on TikTok
in which a New York man stole a pair after a date
There are 26.5 million posts that mention “Tinder tabi thief” on the platform
Widely revered as one of fashion’s most talented couturiers
Galliano creates a world and a story behind his clothes
He famously briefs his models on the entire backstory of their look
from Kate Moss as a runaway princess (John Galliano SS94) to Gwendoline Christie as a sultry doll in the most recent Margiela couture show (Spring 2024)
Speculation continues to swirl about Galliano’s next move
particularly at the big LVMH or Kering houses
would certainly be a change of pace for the designer
as most luxury houses churn out in excess of six collections a year
Galliano has remained staunchly dedicated to slower
Margiela has shown sporadically over recent years
in line with Galliano’s own schedule rather than the breakneck fashion calendar
As for the empty seat at Margiela, the rumour mill has already been churning. When asked about Glenn Martens’s work at Diesel in a recent Vogue Business interview
OTB’s Rosso likened him to Galliano: “It’s really thanks to Glenn that [Diesel] is becoming so cool
couturiers have a different way of designing
Galliano is humble about the opportunity Margiela and Rosso afforded him
“Gratitude to my fashion family for this life-saving creative moment and the safe place we have built together
whose support has been tender and courageous
have walked with me along this narrow pathway to the here and now.”
Rosso is confident in the future of Margiela
have laid the foundations for the future of Maison Margiela which I am very excited about,” he said in a statement
"I wish my dear friend John the best of everything
and I know that there will be other projects for us to collaborate in the future.”
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com
Why barefoot shoes could be big business in 2025
OTB’s Stefano Rosso on revaluing luxury with innovation
‘Our best years are ahead’: Incoming StockX CEO Greg Schwartz outlines his vision
and talks of a potential return to the helm of Dior are reportedly in the works
Maria Grazia Chiuri presented the Women's Collection for Fall 2025
The British designer found a home at the French headquartered fashion house after being ousted from Dior
He surprise announced his departure on the same day he hit 14 years sober
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Getty Images / Dimitrios Kambouris / StaffThis article was published on July 22 and updated on December 11 to reflect John Galliano's departure from Maison Margiela
news of Peter Hawkings' departure from Tom Ford was immediately overtaken as social media simultaneously lit up with speculation that John Galliano would not renew his contract with Maison Margiela
where he has served as creative director since 2014
when Galliano issued a lengthy statement on Instagram that clarified his departure from Margiela
Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Twitter post.Enable All MediaManage consentPrivacy policyGalliano's next stop
even the designer couldn't stop himself from stirring the pot
Everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream," he teased
Miss Tweed — an independent
subscription-based publication that reports on rumors within the fashion and luxury goods sector — spoke to "several sources with knowledge of the matter" who alleged that Galliano is headed back to Dior
In 2011, Galliano was fired from Dior after making anti-semitic slurs
which were captured in a video that surfaced online
Galliano blamed the episode on alcoholism and sought rehabilitation
If Galliano is indeed poised to re-join Dior, he could unseat Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has led the brand since 2016, or Kim Jones, who is rumored to be leaving Dior menswear
Nothing is certain, however — shortly after Miss Tweed's report went live, Fashion Network claimed that Galliano is actually set to join Fendi. Still others suggest that Galliano is off to Chanel
Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this YouTube video.Enable All MediaManage consentPrivacy policySubscribe to Highsnobiety on YouTubeIn other words: These are all just rumors
Over a decade after being shunned by the fashion industry, Galliano has made something of a comeback. His last couture show for Maison Margiela
was lauded by critics for its unrestrained artistry
At the Met Gala in May, Galliano dressed several high-profile celebrities including Zendaya, Kim Kardashian, Gwendoline Christie, and Bad Bunny. Still, the designer's reentry into the spotlight has proven to be divisive, as onlookers contemplate whether he deserves to be forgiven.
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another industry giant just announced his heartbreaking departure
John Galliano shared with his 1.6 million Instagram followers that he’s leaving Maison Margiela
“Today is the day I say goodbye to Maison Margiela,” he wrote
After 10 years and numerous successful collections with the French atelier
the revered designer reflected on his Maison Margiela journey and explained the reasoning behind his shocking exit
With a heart full of gratitude and nostalgia
Galliano credited his accomplishments to “two truly beautiful people whom I both love and cherish” — the label’s founder
the chairman of international fashion group
reinforced by how they are bought and supported
represent diversity and individuality,” Galliano said
who challenge me to create safe places where we can dream and make believe,” he added in reference to models like Thomas Riguelle and Valentine Charrasse
Galliano ended the note by thanking his atelier for “relishing in the importance of slow and ethical fashion,” which has been a driving factor in both his couture and ready-to-wear collection
The label has yet to officially comment Galliano’s news
Galliano even got ahead of the (inevitable) replacement gossip
So, while his successor is still a secret, one thing’s clear: Galliano’s final collection was the internet-breaking Spring 2024 Couture show — and what a phenomenal swan song it was
Galliano took the front-row set underneath the Pont Alexandre III bridge for a theatrical presentation of 44 looks
Each creation spotlighted extreme corsetry
Galliano received a wide range of critical acclaim for this collection — praise that will follow him to wherever he goes next (perhaps a return to the creative director position at Dior?)
(+)Pierre Suu/Getty Images Entertainment.s535723676{padding-top:125%}@media(min-width:768px){.s535723676{padding-top:125%}}(+)Pierre Suu/Getty Images EntertainmentINFO1/2If you’re a new Galliano fan
the 64-year-old designer got his start at Central Saint Martins
graduating in 1984 with a degree in fashion design
he earned the lead designer spot at Givenchy — a role he held for only a year before he replaced Gianfranco Ferré as Dior’s creative director
Galliano made waves on the runway and the red carpet
Celine Dion’s backwards suit at the 1999 Academy Awards; Nicole Kidman’s chartreuse silk gown at the 1997 Oscars; and Princess Diana’s one and only Met Gala dress in 1996
(+)Kevin.Mazur/WireImage/Getty Images.s535723676{padding-top:125%}@media(min-width:768px){.s535723676{padding-top:125%}}(+)New York Daily News/New York Daily News/Getty ImagesINFO1/2However
his time at Dior came to a screeching halt after he directed antisemitic slurs toward Italian women on camera
Galliano acknowledged the exoneration he received within the fashion industry
calling his time at Maison Margiela “a second chance.”
“I felt guilty that my behavior perpetuated the stereotype that creativity had to be fueled by drink and drugs
we’ve proven that creativity is never out of fashion.”
but according to the fans that flooded his Instagram comment section
Maison margielaJohn Galliano confirmed his exit from Maison Margiela on December 11 with a lengthy social media post that touched on basically everything: His work at the house
Galliano took on creative director role at Margiela in 2014
making 2024 his tenth year at the fashion house
Diesel founder Renzo Rosso's Italian conglomerate
Margiela flourished under Galliano's reign
Its commercial aspirations blossomed with hit products like the Glam Slam bag while its creative efforts evolved into some of the most admired in the industry
quite an achievement for a line intentionally not saleable
Everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream," Galliano said in his note
Dior would certainly be a solid fit for Galliano
as his tenure there was tremendously well received
There've also been rumblings of Kim Jones' exit from Dior for the better part of a year
so Galliano may be the first domino in a series of major moves to come
quietly reemerged as the new head of Margiela
"This is when the family — the fashion industry — is at its best: When we collectively support each other
When we accept fogive and help one another see the error of our ways," Galliano said in one of his letter's lengthy tangents
"With childlike eys and forgotton innocence
believing in ourselves — for God is in all of us
I felt guilty that my behavior perpetuated the sterotype that creativity had to be fueled by drink and drugs
Thoughts on cancel culture (for anti-Semitic rants
Galliano devotes much of his letter to praising OTB head Rosso and enigmatic house founder Martin Margiela
Galliano both mentions Margiela's "long-hidden wish" that a couturier like Galliano would lead his eponymous label and reiterates the advice he was given by Margiela before assuming the creative director role: "Take what you will from the DNA of the House
infusing signature Margiela codes with his own perspective
Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.Enable All MediaManage consentPrivacy policyTouchstones like the house's signature four-stitch logo remained in place
so too did the fixation on upcycled and unusual materials
as disparate as Pendleton blankets and artificial hair
The Galliano difference was a newfound emphasis on approachable whimsy
exemplified by the dreamlike Artisanal collections and provocative ready-to-wear
which catered to a more casual consumer with athleisure-leaning items
The Tabi footwear line swelled to create and meet demand as Margiela sought greater financial wins
Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.Enable All MediaManage consentPrivacy policyIt found those wins
straying from the house's legacy in the process
There was ample respect for house signatures but also a clear disparity between the saleable Margiela ready-to-wear of now and the avant creations of then
That's not entirely Galliano's doing
but he is the man behind the brand — a conceit that is itself unusual for a label that once shunned publicly visible leadership
Look at MM6 Maison Margiela, which has spent the past few years evolving from mere sub-label to a tremendously popular standalone line
Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.Enable All MediaManage consentPrivacy policyIts creative director is not a ghost like Margiela himself but the MM6 maintains that level of removal from consumers and press — representatives will often ask writers to remove specific mentions of team members to maintain the brand's anonymity
Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.Enable All MediaManage consentPrivacy policySome buyers have even told me in private that MM6, with its referential lookbooks and stylishly grounded garment deconstruction, is even more "Margiela" than the mainline collection.
There's no question that Galliano's Margiela was Galliano's Margiela, with the unrestrained Artisanal collections supercharging the house's presence in ways that the Margiela of old never could've conceived.
Certainly it was popular. But was it right for Margiela?
If the next talent that takes over Margiela reinstitutes the curtain of anonymity that once shrouded the fashion label, we'll know for sure.
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Our weekly email is chockful of interesting and relevant insights into Jewish history
Learning about the Holocaust is a great first step
creative director for the legendary fashion house Christian Dior
the designer of choice for A-list actresses and models
and an award-winning leader in the fashion industry
“I don’t feel the need to apologize,” you said
Your critics were “bourgeois people
condescending and smug.” And even if you were offensive
it was “better to be talked about than not.”i
and told someone she had a “dirty Jew face.” You denied it – of course – but there was a video and the world heard you say
Natalie Portman – she wore your designs – said
“I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano’s comments that surfaced today
and as an individual who is proud to be Jewish
but give me a break – in vino veritas (in wine there is truth) – everybody knows that.iii So you got chummy with Abe Foxman and the ADL
read books on the Holocaust and Jewish history
and met with Jewish community leaders as penance.iv It must’ve been hell
“I have been trying to find out why [my] anger was directed at this race
I now realize I was so angry and so discontent with myself that I just said the most spiteful thing I could.”v
Sigmund Freud explained, "Jews are hated not so much because they killed Jesus
“I free humanity from the shackles of the soul
from the degrading suffering caused by a false vision called conscience and morality.”
“It is against his own insoluble problem of being human that the dull and base in humanity are in revolt in anti-Semitism
is an inalienable component of our Christian Western Civilization – the eternal "call to Sinai," against which humanity again and again rebels.”vi
The Talmud (Shabbos 89) uses wordplay to explain: the Torah – the source for Jewish values – was received at Mount Sinai
Sinai is similar in pronunciation to sinah (“hate” in Hebrew)
God gave the Torah on a mountain called “Sinai” because sinah – tremendous hatred aimed at the Jews – emanates from there.vii
Jews – by embracing Judaism – embrace a moral God and values and ethics and all its associated baggage
And that embrace made them the target of those at war – be it personal or global – against morality and values
You were angry with the Jews because you were angry with yourself
In your anger and discontent you lashed out
and who better to lash out against than the Jews
But why be negative? Judaism doesn’t start and end with the anti-Semitism. Look at what Jews are and have given to the world
They believe in leadership and personal responsibility
And the Torah teaches that a relationship with God is impossible in a world without harmony and mutual respect
(And they produce pretty actresses to wear your dresses
The Jewish people have been around forever
And they have lasted in spite of anti-Semitism
and a miniscule population (the world’s Jewish population is estimated at about 14 million
And in spite of those things they have had a massive impact on humanity (20% of Nobel Prize winners are Jewish
the world’s biggest religions are based on Judaism
They bicker and argue and use poor judgment and make mistakes like everyone else
But those aren’t reasons to hate them
You have already learned a lot about yourself
Hopefully you’ll learn a lot about the Jewish people
Maybe a few Jews will learn from you and investigate their heritage as well
Thank you for signing up for the aish.com free newsletter
“The rumours… Everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream,” teased designer John Galliano yesterday on his announcement that he’s departing from Maison Margiela after 10 years
Having the whole fashion industry on the edge of our seats
we’re all wondering where tf he’s going next
There’s big rumours that John Galliano might be returning to Dior
The designer was let go from Dior in 2011 following his infamous scandal of antisemetic comments
his tenure at Dior was so excellent that maybe they want him back.
The luxury Italian house known for its maximalist
opulent aesthetic would benefit from Galliano’s equally maximalist
LVMH (Fendi and Dior’s parent company) has not made any comments yet.
This one’s just confirmed. Yes, Matthieu Blazy is going to Chanel and he’s going to do an excellent job
but we had to include bc the rumours for Galliano at Chanel were going crazy
We would’ve loved to see Galliano’s take on the luxury French house
It would be everything that Galliano excels at
See: Matthieu Blazy is Chanel’s new Creative Director
See: Into the archive: We dove into Baraboux’s collection
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The rumors were true: John Galliano is officially bidding farewell to Maison Margiela, after 10 years of path-forging creativity and history-making fashion moments as the French House’s creative director.
“Today is the day I saw Goodbye to Maison,” Galliano wrote on Instagram. “My heart overflows with joyous gratitude, and my soul smiles. For I am 14 years old today—14 years sober. Living a better life than I ever dreamt possible, and this is thanks to two people—two truly beautiful people who I both love and cherish.” He chose to keep the identities of those two people anonymous before going on to address the rumors of where he might be headed next.
The British designer worked as creative director at the French fashion house for 10 years
I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice
John Galliano is officially leaving Maison Margiela after 10 years at the French fashion house
Less than one year after his standout spring 2024 couture show, where runway models were transformed into porcelain dolls, the 64-year-old British designer announced his exit from Margiela this morning on Wednesday
“Today is the day I say goodbye to Maison Margiela,” he wrote in a lengthy letter posted to Instagram
my ‘A’ team — devout in belief and dedicated to style and technique — thank you
We relish in the importance of slow and ethical fashion and the influence it has on all our collections
we are driven by beauty — the quest for balance
Galliano joined Margiela as creative director four years after his predecessor
Galliano was approached by Renzo Rosso — the president of OTB Group
Maison Margiela’s parent company — with the opportunity to lead the fashion house
The designer’s early success was due in large part to Anna Wintour at Vogue magazine
The editor-in-chief helped Galliano financially when he was starting out under his own name — ensuring the wider fashion world recognized his brilliance even when he could only afford to use black fabric
Because of Wintour’s help putting him on the map
Galliano’s unmatched mind was tapped to helm Givenchy in 1995
when asked by Rosso to serve as creative director for Margiela
Galliano was in the midst of his recovery from a years-long alcohol and drug addiction
his substance abuse issues had ultimately led to his firing from Dior and from his own label
after a video of the designer drunkly yelling antisemitic and racist remarks outside a bar had surfaced online
One year later, and three years into his sobriety journey, Galliano accepted the position at Margiela, which he called a “life-saving creative moment.”
Now, Galliano’s sudden departure from Margiela has fashion lovers everywhere wondering what’s next. Will Galliano revive the eponymous label he established in 1984, or will he serve as outgoing creative director Virginie Viard’s successor at Chanel?
For months, speculation has spread throughout the fashion industry about who will be given the coveted role of creative director at Chanel after Viard’s departure in June.
Blazy — who is responsible for reimagining Bottega Veneta with leather fringe and oversized accessories — officially exited the luxury Italian fashion house on December 12 moments before they appointed Louise Trotter as his successor.
Now, Blazy has been appointed as the new Creative Director for Chanel.
So, where does this leave Galliano? While only time will tell, that legendary designer isn’t ready to reveal his next move just yet.
“Everyone wants to know, and everyone wants to dream,” Galliano wrote in his announcement. “When the time is right, all will be revealed.”
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
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John Galliano’s exit from Maison Margiela has sparked rumors about where he’ll go next
Where will he go next?","description":"The British designer worked as creative director at the French fashion house for 10 years
Dutch Grand Prix rider Jeanine Nieuwenhuis saw her internationally competed big tour horse Galliano sell to the U.S.A
Galliano is a 14-year old KWPN gelding by Johnson out of Veliene (by Rudy B x Holypark Jubilation)
The eye catching bay has gone by several names: Galerius Baarzen's
He is bred out of Dutch harness-hackney dam line
Initially listed as owned by Jan-Kees van der Endt
Galliano was was meant to be presented for licensing at the KWPN harness horse licensing
who is a Dutch hackney and harness horse judge he competed from young horse level up to ZZ-Zwaar (fourth level)
In 2022 Nathalie then put him in training with Jeanine Nieuwenhuis as she was pregnant with her first child
With Jeanine the gelding made his international show debut
At the CDI Grote-Brogel the pair posted a 66.652% score in their first Grand Prix test
Nieuwenhuis competed him in two more CDI's
both in Leeuwarden: one in October 2023 and one in October 2024
The horse has now been sold as a schoolmaster to 15-year old American junior rider Harper Kane is from Cornelius
"I'm thankful for the trust I got from Nathalie to work with him for the last 2 years," said Jeanine about seeing Galliano leave her stable
"So many nice competitions and victories in the Grand Prix
But the best thing about him was his personality in the stable every day."
Kane trains with Codi Harrison in Wellington
Related LinksScores: 2023 CDI Grote BrogelScores: 2023 CDI LeeuwardenScores: 2024 CDI Leeuwarden
Stalls for Rent at Durondeau Dressage in Peer, Belgium
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For Rent: Several Apartments and Stable Wing at High-End Equestrian Facility
Stable Wing Available at Reiterhof Wensing on Dutch/German border
Real Estate: Well-Appointed Country House with Extensive Equestrian Facility in the U.K.
Rémi Blot
Galliano’s cultural impact and technical and inventive Margiela creations have had a halo effect on the brand as a whole, Margiela parent company OTB’s founder and chairman Renzo Rosso told Vogue Business in a recent interview
from Kate Moss as a runaway princess (John Galliano SS94) to Gwendoline Christie as a sultry doll in the most recent Margiela couture show (spring 2024)
As for the empty seat at Margiela, the rumor mill has already been churning. When asked about Glenn Martens’s work at Diesel in a recent Vogue Business interview
She wore an exhibition-worthy vintage dress that she modeled back in the 1990s
Bruni took to the Louvre in a black and white design from John Galliano’s fall 1995 collection
The elegant column dress featured a floral motif that spiraled throughout the piece
Bruni accented her archival gown with velvet opera gloves and diamond jewelry by Chopard
debuted this dress on the runway during Paris Fashion Week in 1995
The model and former First Lady of France sported dramatic face makeup and coiffed hair when sauntering down the catwalk
she went with simple tousled waves and a more natural beauty look
The fall 1995 show was a pivotal point in the history of Galliano’s eponymous brand
The designer presented the collection inside of a pared-back warehouse in Paris’s Pigalle district
Galliano’s brand came under the ownership of LVMH as he started his much-adored tenure at Dior
The presentation was basically Galliano’s final act as an independent designer before thrust being fully thrust into the fashion mainstream
He was appointed at Givenchy the same month
a job that would lead him directly to Dior
It’s Galliano’s work from his time at Dior that celebrities tend to wear these days (and Maison Margiela
But surely Bruni and her stylist Clement Lomellini pulled a few strings with Galliano himself to find this two-tone dress
models aren’t allowed to keep the pieces they wear on the runways
and this number was likely sitting somewhere in Galliano’s archives
Who better to give it new life than the model that first wore it back in 1995
receiving 57.7% of all votes cast among boys
while South Lafourche basketball's Alex Friedlander
Galliano received 58.5% of all votes cast among girls as well as the most raw votes of any candidate this week
Vandebilt Catholic basketball's Journee Johnson finished second
White basketball player Immi Ingram took home third
More High School Sports: High school basketball playoffs: Get Houma-Thibodaux area boys and girls schedules here
More High School Sports: High school baseball: Follow along with Houma-Thibodaux area teams and schedules here
John Galliano is departing from Maison Margiela after 10 years as the brand's creative director
"My heart overflows with joyous gratitude
and my soul smiles...Gratitude to my fashion family for this life-saving creative moment and the safe place we have built together
have walked with me along this narrow pathway to the here and now...I'll readily admit I'm demanding and difficult to run with when challenged
The show reignited a conversation about Galliano's indisputable creative genius
as the story-driven performance reminded both in-person attendees and livestream viewers about the power of theatricality and world-building in fashion
With this news also comes rumors of Galliano's next career move. Is it Dior (despite no signs of Maria Grazia Chiuri leaving her post anytime soon)? Fendi
Or might he revive his previously shuttered eponymous label
Galliano vaguely addressed the theories in his statement
"The rumors...everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream
I continue to atone and I will never stop dreaming
Fashionista has reached out to representatives of Maison Margiela for further comment.
Tune into the Fashionista Network to join the conversation with fashion and beauty industry leaders. Sign up here.
having difficult conversations with the designer and exploring his "fourth act."
theatrical presentation — seen as a return to form for Galliano — for a long time
quite a few shoppers are ready to forgive the once-disgraced designer
We also wouldn’t mind him returning to Dior or taking over Gucci
John Galliano post-show at Christian Dior Spring 2011
Get into the groove! Nicky Hilton and designer Rebecca Vallance took over Le Bar Penelope on Tuesday night, celebrating their holiday-ready capsule collection
Held in partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue
the glitzy soirée found chicsters dancing to beats by DJ Tokyo Rose while enjoying delectable dumplings
and more with espresso martinis and margaritas
The festivities came to a glitzy head courtesy of Paris Hilton
who took over the DJ booth for a live performance of “Stars Are Blind.” We love
Cheers! Etro took over Casa Cruz’s private dining room with a festive holiday dinner
The pair welcomed guests to a sleekly lit cocktail hour
before everyone proceeded downstairs to a seated meal
Surrounded by candlelight and Etro paisley-printed teddy bears
conversation varied from Hearst’s recent layoffs to Virginie Viard’s Chanel successor as guests enjoyed family-style salad
Saint Laurent‘s setting up shop in the Meatpacking District
The brand has announced its latest retail space: a two-story boutique in the trendy NYC neighborhood
which marks its largest location in the city
Inspired by creative director Anthony Vaccarello’s sleek taste
The zen space is finished with luxe vintage furniture from Frank Lloyd Wright
Expect to discover the brand’s sleek men’s and women’s clothing
and fine jewelry range when doors open at 72 Gansevoort Street
Yee haw! Bella Hadid‘s Western era is in full effect
with the supermodel making a guest appearance on Yellowstone this week
The episode found Hadid as the new girlfriend of Travis Wheatley (Taylor Sheridan)
going toe-to-toe with Beth Dutton (Kelly Reilly)
that wasn’t the only surprise; Hadid also displayed her own equestrian skills in a later scene in the episode
which included a cameo from her real-life cowboy boyfriend Adan Banuelos
While we didn’t have this on our 2024 bingo cards
we can’t help but wonder: is Hadid officially pursuing an acting career
A post shared by Yellowstone (@yellowstone)
Brazilian fine jewelry brand SAEUR celebrated its new Upper East Side boutique with a chic cocktail soirée
and Kate Young hosted the party in the soaring rooms of Achille Salvagni Atelier
where guests discovered the label’s dazzling pieces—all set with eye-popping emeralds
where SAUER’s high jewelry collections were on display—including its opal-filled mushroom-inspired range and a sculptural collab with Jason Wu
Gird your loins! London’s West End has officially welcomed The Devil Wears Prada to its fall lineup
the play features Vanessa Williams as the titular antagonist Miranda Priestly
who rules Runway magazine with an iron fist
The cast is rounded out with Georgie Buckland (Andy Sachs)
You can check out the full trailer below before booking your tickets to see the show at the Dominion Theater
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Aaron Royce is the Fashion News Editor at The Daily Front Row
and pop culture—both on and off the runway
he served as Digital Editor at Footwear News
following internships with The Daily Front Row
He was born in northern Virginia and lives in Brooklyn
where he spends copious time shoe shopping
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who has been with the OTB-owned label for a decade
did not disclose his next move and a successor has not been named
Designer John Galliano will leave Maison Margiela
according to a Wednesday Instagram post on his official page
A post shared by John Galliano (@jgalliano)
The designer also discussed his 14 years of sobriety
and said OTB founder and president Renzo Russo gave him “the greatest
most precious gift” when Russo offered him the artistic director position at Margiela
However, his tenure at Maison Margiela has provided him with critical success
In addition, the label has done well financially, and showed a 23% year-over-year sales increase when OTB reported its fiscal 2023 earnings in February
Galliano said in his Wednesday statement that he acknowledged his challenges but was also proud of his success at the company
but look at what we have built,” Galliano wrote
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The designer fills the role at the LVMH-owned house after an 11-year tenure at Loewe
The deal frees up owner Capri Holdings to rebuild its Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo brands following a failed merger with Tapestry
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Could the look be a secret homage to Chalamet
“He came to my house in Paris and just started talking,” John Galliano said of meeting Martin Margiela in the Autumn/Winter 2015 issue of this magazine
how forward-thinking.” That was over ten years ago
he has been at the helm of the house and responsible for some of the most important
extraordinary fashion moments from the past decade
a statement posted to his Instagram announced that Galliano is stepping down from his post at the label
before referencing his 14 years of sobriety
and an illuminating conversation with Renzo Rosso – president of Only the Brave (OTB Group)
but ultimately feeling content in his new self
and I better understood the all-consuming act of creativity.” He did not disclose his next move
leaving one more spare seat in fashion’s great musical chairs
His appointment at Maison Margiela came as a surprise to the industry in 2014. His antisemitic outburst had been generously publicised in the media, and continues to be the subject of deliberation, with a documentary debuting earlier this year following his remarkable fall from grace
Combining that with concerns that Galliano’s longstanding reputation as a showman could sully the quiet
anonymised power the label had nurtured its roots with under the famously reclusive Martin Margiela
Rosso’s choice of successor felt unprecedented
which our fashion features director Alexander Fury called “an astonishing
you-need-to-be-there-to-believe-it moment of fashion trickery.”
we highlight the best of John Galliano’s spectacular tenure at Maison Margiela
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John Galliano has packed in his tabis and bid Maison Margiela farewell after ten years at the helm
The eminent British fashion designer shared his formal resignation with a candid letter posted to social media where he expressed his “joyous gratitude” for the tenure and the theatrical sartorial creations he conjured up over the decade
In fashion’s game of creative director revolving door—a phrase coined to describe the constant appointments and departures of artistic leads at prestigious luxury houses—his surprising absence has piqued interest
the 64-year-old has left us on a cliffhanger
“The rumours…Everyone wants to know and everyone wants to dream,” he wrote
Galliano bids the Parisian-based label goodbye on a high note. In January this year, the house presented what could be argued as Galliano’s modern magnum opus in the form of its Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection
Hosted after dark under the Pont Alexandre III bridge, Galliano conjured the bygone world of Paris’ Belle Époque era in all its glamour—and grime. With models’ faces painted like porcelain dolls by Pat McGrath and choreographed to teeter down the runway like puppets on strings
the beauty and extravagance of the silhouettes was nothing short of a spectacle reminiscent of his 90s heyday at Christian Dior
that coup de théâtre was his final bow as artistic director of the luxuriate
Galliano also spent a few months in 2024 attempting to rehabilitate his wider brand image through the release of his documentary
Charting his climatic rise to the pinnacle of fashion to his swift fall from grace after an alcohol-fuelled anti-sematic attack in 2010
the film offered a new perspective on a man fallen out of favour
This was something Galliano acknowledged in his statement
“I felt guilty that my behaviour perpetuated the stereotype that creativity had to be fuelled by drink and drugs
we’ve proven that creativity is never out of fashion
It’s not fuelled by those destructive forces but by a creative community that cares and considers design.”
Galliano concluded his message with a note to his atelier and a wider musing on clothing as a medium for craftsmanship
we are driven by beauty—the quest for balance
construction and the lightness of a feather.”
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With the news of John Galliano’s departure from Maison Margiela
we’re looking back at Grace O’Neill’s reflection on fashion’s conflicted relationship with the controversial designer
Others believe he may be poised to take over Givenchy—his old stomping ground before Dior—following the exit of Matthew Williamson.
But here’s the inescapable thing. It’s a moot point to discuss whether or not John Galliano should be “un-cancelled”, because John Galliano was never really cancelled. Six months after the incident, Kate Moss hired Galliano to design her wedding dress
he was installed as creative director of Maison Margiela
where he has been quietly working for the last decade
He’s been featured in profiles for Vanity Fair and Vogue
the Washington Post’s fashion critic
he received the kind of second chance that is reserved for wealthy white men
There’s no question that if his work wasn’t so valuable
if so many business people could’t see the bankability of it
that we would be having this conversation right now
And so the question at the heart of High & Low isn’t—or at least it shouldn’t be—whether someone can come back from public disgrace
It should make us assess the pitfalls of idolatry
of the risks that come with turning a man into a God
Because I walked away from High & Low overwhelmed by quite how human John Galliano is.
I don’t necessarily mean this as a compliment
Galliano is one of the most remarkably complex and flawed documentary subjects I’ve ever seen
The footage in which he reveals he didn’t know there were multiple separate anti semitic rants—he thought there was only one—was staggering
It makes one question—as Philipp Virgattii
the victim of one of Galliano’s attacks who visibly bears the scars of the encounter to this day wonders aloud in the film—just how sincere his public repentance was
Galliano is inconveniently and unavoidably flawed
Watching him speak as openly and candidly and vulnerably as he seems able to is to sit in the uncomfortable mire of ambiguous feelings and competing judgements
Do I think what he said and did at the Café de Perle is unforgivable
Do I fear that his redemption arc is coinciding with a worrying upward trajectory of anti semitism
Do I believe that addicts behave in ways that they don’t understand and that later repulse them
if not the greatest living fashion designer
and that the world is a richer and more beautiful place with his clothing in it
I am making peace with the fact that I have to be able to sit with all of these things at once
Grace O'Neill is the editor of ELLE Australia
As a journalist her work has been published in The Guardian
She is also the host of popular podcasts “What the ELLE?” and “After Work Drinks”
Photography: Getty Images.Tagsmaisonmargielajohn gallianodesignerRelated ArticlesFashionHere's What The Fashion Industry Thinks John Galliano's Next Move Is John Galliano is set to leave Maison Margiela later this year
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