Stellenbosch Municipality’s Infrastructure Services Directorate plans to construct a new bridge over the Dwars River near Languedoc.
The bridge connecting Languedoc to Pniel is approximately 90 years old and struggles to accommodate modern traffic
engineer on the project to build an upgraded bridge
improve safety and better serve residents,” said Stellenbosch Municipality spokesperson Stuart Grobbelaar
The project will cost approximately R50 million and is expected to last for 12 months
traffic will be controlled with a stop-and-go system.
New and upgraded walkways will be constructed to connect the Languedoc community to the main road.
previously connected to Pniel through two bridges over the Dwarsberg River
The reconstruction of the bridge in Languedoc will improve the remaining lifespan of the road
“The current bridge is approximately 90 years old and very narrow,” said Alan Espy
“The whole objective is to improve the bridge for traffic and the safety of pedestrians,” said Espy.
“The existing bridge restricts traffic flow
as it is currently a single-lane structure,” said Grobbelaar.
Espy expressed concerns for the safety of children and bicycle users on the current bridge
“The children don’t know where to walk
The new bridge will have a sidewalk from one side to the other,” said Espy.
The Dwars River separates Lanquedoc from Pniel resulting in residents needing to commute to town using the existing single lane bridge
Espy said that the old bridge will continue to be used for non-motorised traffic to accommodate pedestrians and bicycles.
The need for this project was identified through previous transport planning studies and the public participation process of the Municipality’s Integrated Development Plan (IDP)
“Traffic will continue to be accommodated on the existing bridge during construction of the bridge
pavements and walkways,” he said.
ShareSaveCommentLifestyleLanguedoc: A Land Filled With History, Poetry And Lots Of WineByPer and Britt Karlsson
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
Britt & Per Karlsson write on wine and wine travel
09:27am EDTShareSaveCommentThe medieval city of Carcassonne
The name Languedoc in Southern France is filled with history
Think of the troubadours in Carcassonne and the Cathars in Minerve
Stories from the Middle Ages are still alive today and are part of the local culture
But Languedoc is also synonymous with wine
Languedoc's wine history spans over 2000 years
The region is the world's largest for grape growing and winemaking
The wine industry dominates the region's economy to such an extent that Languedoc and wine are inseparable terms
There are extensive contiguous vineyards on the plains
but many are located towards the mountains
Here the vineyards are interspersed with the typical and fragrant vegetation known as garrigue which holds an enormous plant diversity
Languedoc accounts for almost 30% of France's wine production
so it is no wonder the wines are visible at home and on the export market
situated along the western part of the Mediterranean Sea
is the birthplace of the French wine industry
wine has been a vital part of the region's economy
The warm and sunny climate of Languedoc made it easy to produce large volumes of simple wine
and during the major part of the 20th century bulk wines dominated
simple everyday wines that were in high demand
When wine consumption in France began to fall in the 1970s
The great “lake” of wine that had formed was not emptied until around 2010
One way to solve the problem was to grub up vineyards
the region has lost over 40% of its vineyard area
and the grape composition has radically changed
The self-confidence among its producers is at its peak
table wines (since 2009 renamed vin de france) account for a tiny part of the production
the category called IGP (formerly vin de pays) dominate with around 65% of the production
The largest of them all is the IGP Pays d'Oc
These wines have been very successful on the export market
not least those sold with the grape variety indicated on the label
There were only a few AOCs before the 1980s
Both growers and consumers began to care about the origin
wanted (and still want) to get the recognition and the status for their specific location that an AOC gives them
there are roughly 20 appellations: Faugères
to mention but a few of the better known ones
The appellations produce around 30% of the wines in Languedoc
one level down in the formal hierarchy (but not necessarily in quality)
Languedoc is a wine region that in size is larger than all New World countries except the United States
finding one characteristic typical of the Languedoc is hard
and the mountains affect the wines to varying degrees
The wild landscape overlooking the sea in La Clape
Although many vineyards are situated away from the coast
the Mediterranean Sea is not far away and influences many wines
The winds from the Mediterranean are mild and humid
But there are also northerly winds such as the mistral and tramontane
These winds are perfect for drying the vineyards after the rain
which the growers are grateful for as it reduces the risk of fungal diseases
as this kind of pruning is well adapted to the winds (and drought)
Languedoc has many hours of sunshine and can get hot in the summer
Slopes with northern exposure are appreciated more and more
and although rain has always been rare in the summer
the vines have adapted and survived even long periods without rain
But these periods are now getting longer and longer
The vine is a fantastic plant that manages with only a little water
But if not even that tiny amount of water is there
it is easy to understand why irrigation is spreading in Languedoc
The producers are also experimenting with alternative grape varieties that have good resistance to drought
Local grape varieties that have been all but forgotten are now being tried out
The vines of Languedoc grow in many different soil types: light sandy soils
Hardly any of the many appellations have homogeneous soil
The big ones have a mosaic of different types
Faugères is one of the few where one soil—schist—dominates
Old and new vineyards in Fitou/Corbieres in Languedoc
Schist is found in parts of several other appellations
such as Saint Chinian and Terrasses du Larzac
and the rock easily splits into thin flakes
the vine roots go through the cracks in the rock
Limestone is found to a greater or lesser extent in many places throughout Languedoc
It is in limestone soils that the garrigue grows best
The garrigue is a type of vegetation typical of the Mediterranean area that we find around the vineyards
blackberry thickets and low-growing green oaks grow here
Winegrowers - and consumers - often find a taste of garrigue in their wines
rosé wines have increased dramatically in recent years
but even the whites are starting to take shares from the red wines
the vineyards of the Languedoc have entirely changed
The vineyard surface has decreased drastically
and the wine producers plant almost completely different grapes today
During Languedoc's time as a volume producer
The wines were low in alcohol and did not taste much
the most important southern grape found throughout the Mediterranean region is grenache
It has been around for a long time in Languedoc and has always had a good reputation here
It thrives in the heat and ripens with high alcohol levels
which could possibly become a problem in the future
The ancient village of Minerve in Languedoc
Aramon has almost disappeared but carignan is still much planted
carignan has been wholly re-evaluated by wine producers
It handles the heat and the powerful winds in the south of France well
carignan can produce superb wines with character
Cinsault is an old Languedoc grape experiencing a renaissance
It produces elegant wines in a light and very drinkable style
The most cultivated variety today in Languedoc is syrah
which occupies 15% of the vineyard surface
cinsault (5%) and mourvèdre and marselan (each 2%)
The Languedoc producers started planting syrah and mourvèdre in the 1970s
They were introduced because they were said to improve the quality of the wines
Many Languedoc producers believe Syrah is indispensable today
Syrah undoubtedly adds colour and tannins to grenache but can sometimes become too dominant
it is strictly regulated which grapes can be used and in what proportions
Permitted grapes for red AOC wines are syrah
mourvèdre and lledoner pelut (a close relative of grenache)
When the vin de pays wines (now IGP) became popular in the 1990s
grape varieties with no connection to the south of France began to appear: merlot
Languedoc's vineyards are a mosaic of different grape varieties today
you can choose between about 50 grape varieties
There are many ambitious wines within the IGP category
Maybe they want to use a grape that is not allowed in the appellation wine
and innovative winemakers feel that their wines do not fit into the appellation framework
the wines of Languedoc are all about character
Laurent and Catherine Delaunay are expanded their Languedoc varietal brand
with the launch Les Petites Jamelles at Wine Paris
The range is tapping into consumer trends for fun
inexpensive wines that provide value for both the on and off-trade
with labels illustrated by a former Hermes designer which highlight a light-hearted
the Languedoc venture being run by Laurent and Catherine Delaunay’s daughter Jeanne Delaunay
extended and is now refocused on AOP Languedoc
who represents the 6th generation of Delaunay winemakers
took over running the boutique winery business from her parents 18 months ago
but also heads up sustainability at the parent company
Abbotts & Delaunay is currently growing at 25%
according to the Languedoc Wine Interprofessional Council (CIVL)
Speaking to the drinks business last month
Laurent Delaunay said that the revamping of Abbotts & Delaunay had been a big project and that Jeanne
who gained winemaking experience in Sonoma at the Francis Ford Coppola Winery
with Thibault Liger-Belair and Romanée-Conti
was bringing “new energy” to the strategy and adopting a “Burgundian approach” to make top quality wines
New to the range for the UK off-trade are two Languedoc AOPs
a Grenache-Syrah blend and a Grenache Blanc–Vermentino blend – fresh modern wines from diverse vineyard origins
Laurent and Catherine Delaunay founded the business
previously known as Badet Clément in the Languedoc in 1995 but following the family buying back Edouard Delaunay
the family business in the heart of Burgundy’s Côtes de Nuits that was sold by Laurent’s father
renaming the business Delaunay Vins & Domaines in 2023
Jeanne joined the business at Abbotts & Delaunay
with Catherine taking charge of the Les Jamelles brand
and Laurent the Edouard Delaunay business in Burgundy
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Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler and Justin Howard-Sneyd MW tasted 158 wines
with 2 Outstanding and 30 Highly Recommended
The wine-growing region of Languedoc is 200km in length
arcing round the southwestern edge of France’s Mediterranean coastline
clay and sand can be found along the coastal plains and the southern foothills of the Massif Central
There is an Atlantic influence in the northwestern vineyards
higher altitude coolness in the foothills of the Pyrenees in the south
and cool air sweeping down the Rhône Valley in the east
The resulting diversity can make it almost impossible to define a ‘Languedoc style’
with a focus on rosé and the wines of southern France
Her second book Rosés of Southern France (£22 Amazon
2022) was co-authored with her son Ben Bernheim
Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler is a wine buyer for Waitrose
having previously worked for more than five years in roles including wine buying and head of trade sales at importer Charles Taylor Wines
Justin Howard-Sneyd MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Languedoc-Roussillon
he is a wine trade consultant via his company The Hive Wine Consulting
a trustee of the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation
and produces wines at Domaine of the Bee in Roussillon
this area offers those who visit an authentic
more grassroots taste of the “real” France
It’s often missed off other tourists’ lists
meaning that those who do visit can expect less crowding
unique and unfiltered terrain and a real insight into French provincial life
can be traced back to the Celtic tribes of the late Iron Age
before it was conquered by the Roman Empire
Its winemaking traditions have evolved through the tapestry of cultures woven into the area’s history
But its modern appeal can be chalked up in equal parts to its vineyards
respected food scene and a more affordable lifestyle compared to many of its neighbouring regions
Though its wines have gained international recognition
Languedoc itself remains a relatively undiscovered gem
This low-key status lends itself to calmer
less-crowded getaways that visitors to the region so relish
from the best hotels to book to the coolest things to do
Le Vieux CastillonThe best hotels in LanguedocChâteau St Pierre de SerjacWhether you’re after an upscale family getaway or a romantic retreat
this immaculately renovated château has perfected the often elusive balance between the two
offering refined French living in both the main house and surrounding villas
The hotel is the ideal base for exploring – it’s just a short drive away from myriad medieval villages and 30 minutes from the beach
Join excursions devised by the château team
from star-gazing onsite to boat trips or just enjoying the 200-acre estate with a picnic bag and wine cooler
packed full of hotel-made delights and regional delicacies
There’s also a luxurious spa to kick back in
A table by the window is a must if you happen to head to breakfast before sunrise
as the first rays rising over the infinity pool bathes the manicured lawns in a honey-hued glow that’s worth waking up early for
Address: Château St Pierre de Serjac, 34480 Puissalicon, FranceWebsite: serjac.com
Sandwiched between the lungs of a medieval village
18 ancient village houses have been woven together to create a hotel where the old bones still feel palpable beneath the more contemporary additions
cosy corners and various indoor and outdoor terraces and spaces to relax
as well as an outdoor pool flanked by crumbly original walls
looking out across the picturesque Languedoc countryside
There’s a small but perfectly formed spa and the famous Roman aqueduct
just a short bike ride away (complimentary two-wheelers can be rented from the hotel)
Address: 10 Rue Turion Sabatier, 30210 Castillon-du-Gard, FranceWebsite: vieuxcastillon.com
Emulating the atmosphere of an off-grid village
Château les Carrasses quite literally unfurls itself into the undulating vineyards that surround the 19th-century estate and is a destination-within-a-destination for many of those who stay
Biscuit-hued self-catering villas (many with private pools and gardens) pepper the grounds
a mini farm and a row of complimentary bikes which can be borrowed at whim to get a closer look at the vineyards beyond
The spaces are set up with community in mind while also offering the families and groups of friends who stay the flexibility to dine in the privacy of their villa
Those on the hunt for real relaxation take note: a wellness cabin in the middle of a vineyard
reached by a rocky climb in an electronic buggy
Address: Route de Capestang, 34310 Quarante, FranceWebsite: lescarrasses.com
Medieval fortified city of CarcassonneGetty ImagesExplore the Medieval City of CarcassonneA UNESCO World Heritage Site
Carcassonne’s fortified walls and imposing citadel are a window into the Middle Ages
Take a meander through its cobbled streets
visit the hilltop Cité de Carcassonne – occupied through the ages by Romans
and Crusaders – which lords itself over the river Aude
and immerse yourself in its rich narrative tapestry
An evening visit offers an entirely different perspective
bathing the winding streets in an ethereal glow
Lac Du SalagouGetty ImagesTake a dip in Lac Du SalagouLanguedoc abounds with serene swimming spots
though few rival the beauty of Lac du Salagou
made up of some 750 hectares of sapphire blue waters encircled by ochre hills
The contrast between the rich blue of the lake with the red volcanic rock that surrounds it creates a lunar-like landscape
upon which visitors can enjoy a variety of activities
Don’t miss the opportunity to explore the abandoned lakeside village of Celles
Abbey of Saint Martin du CanigouGetty ImagesTake a breath at the Abbey of Saint Martin du CanigouDescribed by many as a "deeply spiritual place"
the serene Abbey of Saint Martin du Canigou sits high on a shrub-covered mountainside
a bewitching reward for those willing to break a sweat on the hike up
While the guided tours are conducted in French
the breathtaking views are the main attraction and speak for themselves
Languedoc is the largest producer of organic wines in France
as well as the biggest producer of IGP and AOC rosé wines in the country
so no visit here would be truly complete without a vineyard visit
where the garrigue-covered hills meet the Cévennes mountains
Château de Lascaux stands as a testament to biodynamic winemaking
boasts 85 hectares of vineyards producing exceptional Syrah wines
making it a vibrant destination for wine enthusiasts
Address: Route du Brestalou, 34270 Vacquières, FranceWebsite: chateau-lascaux.com
Vineyard in LanguedocGetty ImagesBest restaurants in LanguedocFleur d’Olargues, OlargueGazing out across Olargues, one of France’s most beautiful villages, the suntrap terrace of restaurant Fleurs d’Olargues offers a heady mix of great food (with dishes creed using a mix of ancestral and modern techniques)
occult vistas and the type of attentive service and authentic knowledge that only a real family-run restaurant can pull off
Run by Danish chef Kasper Bergh and his wife Fe
dishes include classics like smørrebrød (to be reductive
an open sandwich) from Bergh’s heritage as well as Asian touches from Fe’s
paddle in the rock pools and then head here for a well-deserved lunch
Make sure to book early; the location might be remote
Address: Pont du Diable, D908, 34390 OlarguesWebsite: fleursdeolargues.com
L’Ecluse is the kind of restaurant people base their holidays around
A menu of simple yet innovative French-Mediterranean tapas pairs with a perfectly formed local wine list to form the basis of a dining experience that is about good food
The bucolic setting and unobtrusive service make this the sort of place where you could while away an entire afternoon without evening noticing
Addres: 16 Av. Pierre Bérégovoy, 34420 Villeneuve-lès-Béziers, FranceWebsite: restaurant-ecluse-beziers.fr
which now makes up part of the owner’s family home
tucked beside the ancient walls of the medieval city of Carcassonne
this enchanting restaurant is an ode to true family and gastronomy values
are the real focus here and are served as part of an ever-changing but always delicious menu
The unobtrusive frontage gives way to elegant tables beneath solid original beams and spills into a charming patio
Owner and chef Bernard Marius really celebrates local produce
flavours and traditions and was himself trained by the starred chef Marcel Aymeric at the time of the Logis de Trencavel in Carcassonne
Address: 13 Rue Saint-Jean, 11000 Carcassonne, FranceWebsite: lamarquiere.com
Despite a 4% decline in the overall UK wine market last year
driven largely by strong performance from the Languedoc-Roussillon region
Languedoc’s AOP rosé wines grew by 37% in the UK
drove this growth with a 31% year-on-year increase
now accounting for nearly 60% of red Languedoc AOP sales
Sales of white wines from Languedoc’s AOPs also reflected success in the UK
with AOP Picpoul de Pinet sales rising by 40% and Languedoc regional AOP increasing by 5%
these appellations represent almost 97% of Languedoc’s white AOP wine sales in the UK
Volumes of Languedoc AOP rosé wines have doubled in two years
showing growing popularity in the UK market
The CIVL
continues to support the British market with plans for 2024
and Languedoc Quizzes scheduled for Birmingham and Glasgow later this year
The Languedoc spans four French départments and is home to over 1,200 independent wineries
Its 20-plus AOPs and 12 GIs cover diverse terroirs and climatic influences
and less oak-influenced red wines further reflect the region’s forward-thinking approach
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a custom Languedoc guitarCover photographer: Nicholas Burnham
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a custom Languedoc guitarCover photographer: Jimmy Hubbard
Whenever the Phish frontman appears on the hallowed cover of Guitar World he has his Languedocs with him
Phish guitarist Trey Anastasio is rarely seen without one of his custom Paul Languedoc guitars – the koa builds that have accompanied him on ever Guitar World cover to date
and why it just kept cropping up on GW covers…
Although you’re holding your main Paul Languedoc guitar (Koa 1) during this interview
you’re actually holding Koa 2 on your two previous GW covers
How did the whole Languedoc connection come about
“I met my friend Paul Languedoc in about 1983
He was a Burlington [Vermont] luthier who worked at Time Guitars and became my roommate and our first crew member – and for a long time
He had already made me a couple of guitars at Time – a solidbody and a miniature guitar that I traveled with
It was a six-string guitar that was so small I could put it in my backpack
What do you want?’ At the time I was listening to a lot of jazz
I was trying to access the harmonic language of jazz
but I also loved Jimi Hendrix and Led Zeppelin
So I asked him if I could have a guitar that does it all – which everybody always wants
“His suggestion was a hollowbody with a Strat-scale length
He came up with this shape and made me the first one
That prototype was the blonde ‘Mar Mar’ guitar
so named because I put [an image of] our dog – who used to travel with us – on [the headstock]
We have to give Paul credit where credit is due; he designed this unique-sounding guitar
and I started writing music that fit to the sound.”
“The best example I can think of is The Squirming Coil
The music in the middle section is some of my favorite composed music I’ve ever done
That guitar really had a midrange-y quality
because as a young guitar player two of my favorite guitarists were Robert Fripp in his Bowie era and the killer Queen
who is still the greatest midrange guitarist ever
“This guitar allowed me to access that ‘wooooo’ tone
because it was a hollow body with long scaling
so Paul said he wanted to make me one out of koa
We’d practice in his garage while he built guitars next to us
and he started building his own tools and normalizing the guitar
“This prototype is not normalized yet
so it has a few weird qualities – like
He chose to start making the necks more like Les Pauls
and he also moved the rear pickup forward so it would be a little bit kinder to that central position
“But this is the guitar I carried around with me everywhere and wrote so much central music on
The years 1996-99 were a really crazy time for Phish
and this was glued to my body through that whole period
It was backstage at Big Cypress [a three-day New Year’s event at the Big Cypress Seminole Indian Reservation in Florida
1999 into 2000] in the midst of all these big parties
and I basically slept with it – wake up and start practicing.”
“I played it so much that I wore out the neck
I would play it a while and then go back to Koa 1 because [Koa 1] is like a phantom limb
I made a lot of mistakes on 1 that I fixed.’
“The craftsmanship on the newer ones is insane
They’re amazing guitars – works of art
Then he built me the ‘Ocelot’ guitar [Koa 3]
but I’d play it for a while then pick up the ’96 guitar again
[Laughs] We had a little head-butt about it
‘It’s not as good!’ And I’m like
Is it the feel or the sound that makes you feel that way
I asked him to put a piece of lead in here
can you do this?’ It had a bone nut and he put a brass one on to make it a little more twangy
he made me Koa 4 [aka “the 4.0 Guitar”] and
my love affair with this guitar has gotten out of hand
I’ve never loved an inanimate object the way I love this guitar
I didn’t even know it was possible.”
I saw a picture of you holding a Stratocaster at Billy Strings’ wedding last year
Billy was playing my guitar and he loved it
the great engineer and producer we’ve worked with
told me that recording engineers talk and say that there’s only one person who makes this guitar sound right
“I’m almost getting scared about my love affair with this guitar
because I’m worried what I would do if something happened to it
It has all the things I wanted when I talked to Paul back in the day about my dream guitar
That’s why it’s sitting in your apartment and the other ones are in a studio
“And it’s not the easiest one to play
they’re lighter and don’t hurt my neck as much
But I’ve played so many hours and written so many songs on it that I feel like…”
It’s starting to scare me how attached I am to this guitar
If there were a fire and I was running out of the house
it’s the only object I would try to save
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having risen through the ranks as a grower
first joining the cooperative at its Puichéric site in 1994
Now it's his job to ponder the big questions
he's talking earnestly about the group's imminent challenges
"The water table in the growing areas is currently very low
because there are precious few reserves left
then in the zones that are not irrigated [about half of the group's vineyards]
Jean-Marie Cassignol is ready to make the big decisions at Vignobles Foncalieu
"We now have several meteorological stations around the vineyards
These tell us how much available water there is in the soils and how much irrigation the plants need
We leave more foliage around the grapes than we used to
We're also considering planting drought-resistant grapes and even replanting our vineyards in an east-west rather than the current north-south direction
This pragmatic approach sets the tone for our meeting
which never strays far from the environment – an obsessive respect for which is clearly key to Foncalieu's ethos
A full 83% of Foncalieu's vineyards have some form of agro-environmental accreditation – organic
HEV (high environmental value) or Terra Vitis – but Cassignol understands that the last two can leave consumers somewhat confused
so is keen to distinguish them from organic viticulture."Oganic is all about the wines
it is about achieving quality results using only products that are authorised for organic viticulture – so no synthetic chemical treatments in the vineyard for at least the previous three years," he explains."HEV recognises farms that are committed to an environmentally friendly approach
and covers the entirety of the business's activity
Both organic treatments and some conventional treatments are authorised in the vineyard
the focus is fundamentally on biodiversity conservation
management of fertiliser use and water management
Most of our organic wine growers are also HEV certified
"Terra Vitis applies to our business and the wines it produces
These are impressive credentials, but I'm far from alone in finding the accreditations a tad opaque. According to a 2023 survey carried out by Millésime Bio, 87% of French consumers recognised the principles of organic certification
but the figures for HEV and Terra Vitis were a mere 27% and 19%
and are likely to be even lower in export markets
"C'est très technique," Cassignol admits
A lot of work has been done at Foncalieu to experiment with new varieties and techniques best equipped to work in its unique soils
but with an allure that reaches far beyond trade speak and wine nerdery
is Foncalieu's pioneering work on what they refer to as the "new French vine varieties."
I first spoke to Foncalieu's chief winemaker
“The project was the brainchild of the late Alain Bouquet
an agronomist at Montpellier's INRA research institute,” he explained
Bouquet's aim was to breed a new generation of French hybrid vines that were resistant to mildew and oïdium
types of rot that were brought to Europe on American vine cuttings in the 19th Century
This would reduce the need for vineyard treatments
Interbreeding of European Vitis vinifera with American vine species first began as an initial solution to the 19th Century Phylloxera epidemic
Although the hybrid vines that were created proved immune to Phylloxera
the wines they made usually retained some of the less desirable taste characteristics of their American parents
Research into hybrid varieties continued in some European countries
but virtually ceased in France in the 1970s
So Bouquet's challenge was to create new varieties that combined this resistance with the kinds of attractive flavours common to wines made from Vitis vinifera plants
He started out with a simple hybrid variety and began a process of retro-breeding with multiple vinifera plants
Only towards the end of the breeding sequence did the paths of the new varieties diverge
creating four different grapes with remarkably individual flavours
"Foncalieu was the first producer to become interested in planting the 'Bouquet' varieties in 2007," says Cassignol
"We wanted to be pioneers in growing varieties capable of adapting to climate change naturally
It was about being the first to produce and market a wine made from new French vine varieties."First to market were 4,000 bottles of the 2018 vintage of the red variety Artaban
we introduced a white and a rosé into the range
We use Artaban and Vidoc for the red and the rosé
The entire range still represents a mere 20,000 bottles
We have learned to adapt our winemaking techniques to produce wines that meet consumer expectations as faithfully as possible.""This year," he adds
"we're launching a new wine: a vin gris made from Souvignier Gris
It will be available in two different labels - 'Esprit Artisan' for the more 'traditional' markets
and 'Atelier n°10' for the supermarkets."
Foncalieu is working hard to introduce new styles using a diversity of grapes it believes are the future of what can be grown in the region
With domestic wine consumption in steady decline and a pan-European cost of living crisis
there is a general sense among Languedoc-Roussillon's winemakers that hard times are ahead
"Our future depends on our ability to adapt to markets and to innovate," says Cassignol
Evidence of this adaptation is all over Foncalieu's range of wines
from the group's decision to focus primarily on whites and rosés (now about two thirds of production)
to a concentration on curious varietals such as the Spanish / Portuguese white Albariňo
the rare Piquepoul Noir – as a rosé – and the increasingly chic Malbec
fresher reds will be part of the group's future direction
as well a greater number of wines under 12% a.b.v
In addition to Foncalieu's commitment to the environment
the health of its vineyards and the wines produced
Cassignol also believes that social responsibility is key to the group's future: "It is the very essence of the cooperative movement."
Foncalieu received CSR (corporate social responsibility) accreditation in 2022 from AFNOR (Association Française de Normalisation)
"Our long-term development strategy is based fundamentally on models of economic value creation that are respectful of people and the environment
for every one of our stakeholders," says Cassignol
"Changing our practices is a priority: we encourage and support our winegrowers
wineries and teams in promoting sustainable agriculture and protecting biodiversity by reducing water use
the sorting of waste and with energy management
A pioneering approach in the vineyard is essential for the sustainability of our activity
This approach affects every area of our business and includes the entire chain
optimising every process from the vine to the glass."
* Vignobles de Foncalieu is a commercial partner of The Buyer. You can find out more about its business and wines here.
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As an almost contiguous landscape of vineyards
the south of France is an impressive patchwork of regions
It has evolved beyond its historical reputation for bulk wine production to earn a reputation for quality and value
as well as newly discovered pockets of old vines that can produce extremely low yields
Those natural resources have been matched by investment
with many producers adopting modern winemaking techniques
A new generation of producers are also introducing knowledge and inspiration from abroad
Growers in Languedoc are increasingly challenged by episodes of extreme temperatures during the growing season
as well as prolonged drought which makes producing balanced wines ever more difficult
is to turn to lesser-known terroirs to keep wines fresh
At a time when global consumption is on the decline – dropping 2.6% in the International Organisation of Vine and Wine’s most recent annual report – the Languedoc is experiencing a genuine revival
Its wines are gaining regular international attention and it is reaffirming its commitment in mature markets
the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc reported 21% annual growth in the UK for wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon basin
Known for its classic southern varieties that enjoy lots of sunshine such as Grenache
Languedoc’s vast and varied landscape also offers potential to produce later ripening varieties
Bijou has honed in on two sub-regions in recent years
From the brisk heights of the Haute Vallée de l’Aude to the maritime-influenced vineyards of the Coteaux de Béziers
Bijou proudly promotes lesser known regions on its labels
at altitudes between 400 and 450 metres above sea level
the cool climate and limestone-rich soils provide ideal conditions for late-ripening varieties
Sparkling wine lovers may be familiar with the region’s cool conditions thanks to its neighbouring appellation
Crémant de Limoux and Blanquette de Limoux likewise make use of altitude for refreshing wines
the twin focuses are late-ripening Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
thanks to the wide diurnal range in the area
It is especially beneficial for Pinot Noir
helping to avoid the jammy aromas that warmer subregions might risk
The mountains also benefit these vines in their soil composition
The mixture of stone and clay formed by the peaks’ erosion drains freely and promotes deep
which also partners with the two varieties in prestigious regions such as Burgundy
Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose demonstrates Bijou’s preference for a delicate and refined Pinot Noir
cranberry and a vegetal quality which Bijou describes as “a key facet of Pinot Noir”
this organoleptic quality is rarer to find
when Bijou came across these cooler sites in the foothills of the Pyrenees
the winemaking team was immediately excited by its potential
Having released their first vintage in 2024, both Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose and Eminence de Bijou, made a great impression at the Global Pinot Noir Masters
picking up Gold medals – a credit to the terroirs of the Haute Vallée de a’Aude
High altitude sites are certainly not the story in Bijou’s other Languedoc sub-region
The vineyards of the Coteaux de Béziers IGP are seldom higher than 10m above sea level
simply because they sit around 10 kilometres from the Mediterranean
It is therefore that coastal terroir that lends freshness to its wines sourced from the region
The strong breezes bring cooler streams of air from the sea
dissipating pockets of heat that can build up beneath leaf canopies
The vines can therefore enjoy plenty of Mediterranean sunshine without ripening too quickly
The direct exposure to the Mediterranean further impacts the wines through the salt carried in the wind
With the leaves and soils persistently exposed to this maritime influence
the vines can absorb minerals from the sea
It operates almost like a sprayed fertiliser
consistently depositing small traces of key minerals
Analysis by coastal winemakers often indicates those minerals are transferred to the grapes and consequently the wine
These winemakers note that their maritime wines have heightened salt content compared to inland cuvées
that Bijou highlights a hint of salinity as one of the hallmarks of Coteaux de Béziers terroirs
Producing predominantly fresh and aromatic whites and rosés in this part of Languedoc
Bijou explains that declaring their wines as an IGP offers more flexibility than appellations in the face of climate change
The crossing between Grenache and Malbec is more resistant to drought and parasites; it naturally produces lower potential alcohol levels; and its organoleptic qualities are numerous
providing lots of citrus and exotic fruits as well as good acidity to a blend
Bijou has proudly been increasing the percentage of this sustainable variety in their blends for the past 5 years
correlate with Bijou’s numerous awards over the same period
emphasises the importance of preserving the integrity of their terroir for tomorrow: “We believe that great wines start in the vineyard
By farming sustainably and carefully selecting our vineyard sites
we are able to create wines that express the diversity and beauty of the Languedoc-Roussillon region.”
Bijou is proud to produce wines that respect the complexity and heritage of Languedoc-Roussillon and reflect a modern identity to the region
From the high-altitude elegance of the Haute Vallée de l’Aude to the coastal vibrancy of the Coteaux de Béziers
their wines are a celebration of this diverse region
Lived in the Languedoc for 1q yrs in Marseillian on the Etang de Thau
I didn’t really know much about wine until my husband
died in a car accident and I inherited his extensive wine cellar
I suddenly felt a bit lost — the future I had imagined had suddenly disappeared
I had been a sales executive at a computer training company for 11 years but decided to put myself on a wine appreciation course and got myself a job stacking shelves at Oddbins
One thing led to another: I did the Wine & Spirit Education Trust diploma and decided to use all that knowledge to become a wine teacher
which I did by studying part-time for four years at the Birmingham College of
I cover the global wine industry.Follow AuthorDec 12
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#article-stream-0 .subhead3-embed .font-accent{font-family: Euclid,"Noto Sans","Droid Sans","Helvetica Neue",Corbel,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;}The variety of Languedoc wines is remarkable
with everything from a delicate Roussanne-based white to a zesty Mauzac sparkler to a bold Syrah that captures the warmth of the Mediterranean even on a cold winter's night
Looking for the perfect gift for a wine enthusiast or someone eager to explore the world of wines
It’s time to dig into France's Languedoc wine region
Nestled in the sun-soaked southwestern part of the country
this legacy wine-producing area is a treasure trove of exceptional wines that consistently overdeliver on both quality and value
With a winemaking history that stretches back over 2,000 years—predating even the Romans—Languedoc has evolved from a bulk wine producer to a hub of artisanal
This list represents only a fraction of the diversity available
The Cabardès appellation is a testament to Languedoc's extraordinary diversity
Uniquely positioned at the intersection of Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences
this region produces wines that blend grape varieties from both zones
Expect robust reds that combine the structure of Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with the vibrant character of Mediterranean grapes such as Grenache and Syrah
Divided into two distinct geological zones—schist in the north and limestone in the south—Saint-Chinian offers wines of remarkable complexity
while the southern vineyards craft more elegant
and Carignan that showcase the region's incredible terroir
The expansive AOP Languedoc represents a broad swath of the region's winemaking artistry
creating wines that range from crisp mineral-driven whites to powerful
The variety is staggering—one might find a delicate Roussanne-based white alongside a robust Syrah that speaks of Mediterranean warmth
A sub-region that has gained significant prestige
Terrasses du Larzac represents the pinnacle of Languedoc's red wine production
limestone-rich soils create an ideal environment for producing wines of extraordinary balance and complexity
Expect elegant reds with notes of dark fruits
Pézenas is shaped by ancient volcanic activity
with basalt-rich soils that add distinctive minerality and depth to the wines
Volcanic and limestone-rich soils impart a distinctive mineral quality to the wines
particularly enhancing the flavors of robust reds made from Grenache
Producers in Pézenas are known for their commitment to sustainability and artisan methods
expressive wines that capture the essence of the terroir
AOP Pézenas is a must-try for any wine lover exploring the diversity of French viticulture
with documented sparkling wine production dating back to the 1500s
The region specializes in méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines made primarily from Chardonnay
These offer a more wallet-friendly alternative to Champagne with remarkable quality
Picpoul de Pinet produces incredibly fresh
With vibrant citrus notes and a distinctive saline minerality
these wines are the ultimate companion to shellfish (oysters are second nature here) and Mediterranean cuisine
They represent incredible value and are perfect for gatherings or as an adventurous gift
Faugères wines can be enjoyed young for vibrant fruit or aged for complex depth
reflecting the region's unique geology as seen in the vineyards
Faugères is renowned for its unique terroir
composed entirely of schist soils that make it a haven for robust and characterful wines
These ancient rocks efficiently drain water and retain heat
fostering a microclimate ideal for even grape ripening
The result is red wines of remarkable intensity and complexity
Whether enjoyed young for vibrant fruit or aged for deeper nuances
Faugères reds exemplify the artistry of winemaking shaped by exceptional geology
Surrounding the historic city of Montpellier
this appellation showcases sophisticated reds that embody the spirit of Mediterranean winemaking
the region provides an ideal environment for grape cultivation
reflect the harmony of this climate and terroir
The natural warmth of the Languedoc wine region imbues the wines with depth and generosity
while soft tannins and a touch of spice add layers of complexity
Putting aside the oft-referenced factors of unique terroir, prestigious grape varieties or generations of experience, how does one make fine wine? The solution, increasingly, is small tabletop equipment that looks more at home in a laboratory than an ancient cellar. For the last 25 years, FOSS Analytics has been producing such technology and helping winemakers get the best from their grapes
By checking the chemical makeup of the wine-to-be
fermenting juice or a wine ready for bottling
winemakers can act quickly and precisely to make the best possible product
one can measure up to 30 parameters from a single sample
For fine winemakers, where precision is key, the technology is often indispensable. Gérard Bertrand Group understands that better than most. It has been using FOSS machines to support in crafting its award-winning wines, which have taken home major international prizes, helped put the Languedoc on the map for fine wine and secured Gérard Bertrand a place in The Master Winemaker 100
quality and CSR manager at Gérard Bertrand
spoke to db about how such rapid analytical machines aid the producer’s winemaking
the tool’s reliability and efficiency pleased us
It saves time as a single instrument can provide us with a range of essential parameters to meet our high standards for producing excellent wines
We used manual methods and/or enzymatic methods
which was very advantageous for us given the level of precision and detail we apply to our winemaking processes
It is a greatly appreciated time and efficiency gain
thanks to the fact that all parameters are analysed in a single machine
This solution for performing a complete analysis very quickly has revolutionised our way of working and has allowed us to gain autonomy in our analyses
It also enhances our responsiveness in verifying regulatory compliance during blending and throughout the winemaking process
They have become indispensable tools that improve and contribute to the enhancement of the winemaking process
If there is one thing we never compromise on
it is the quality of our wines and the attention we give both in the vineyard and in the cellar
The technological choice was never debated and is still not debated today
We quickly invested in technology because very early on
we knew that these tools would offer many operational advantages and would allow us to gain efficiency and achieve the level of excellence and rigour in winemaking that we are looking for
we always consider the investment in technology to be worth it as long as it benefits the quality of our wines
We still need complementary devices to perform certain controls (oxygen
colour) because methods do not exist in FTIR to perform these controls
or they are not robust enough to apply our control plans
But is it desirable if it comes at the expense of reliability
The Olympic flame arrived in Narbonne on 16 May 2024 carried by the biodynamic winemaker – and one of the key faces of the Languedoc region around the world – Gérard Bertrand
A tradition since the 1936 Summer Olympics in Berlin
where the flame is lit and is then carried
through the host country in the weeks leading up to the start of the Olympic Games
The Olympic committee selected 11,000 torchbearers to carry the flame across France to Paris
where the 33rd edition of the games will be held
The torch arrived in the French city of Marseille on 8 May
alongside president of the Aude council Hélène Sandragné
who is recognised as a global leader in organics and biodynamics
said: ‘I am very proud to carry the Olympic flame
firstly because it’s my territory but above all
because it symbolises self-transcendence and the peace that we need in the world.’
Bertrand’s wine is exported to more than 180 countries worldwide
with all of his 17 estates across Languedoc – and now into the southwest with a recent purchase of an estate in Cahors – farmed biodynamically
As a category that’s attracting bartenders and a younger generation
according to Languedoc winemaker Gérard Bertrand
who’s taking the “fourth colour” to new heights
Bertrand – whose Villa Soleilla was the highest-scoring sample in db’s inaugural Orange Wine Masters – has become a powerful force in the expanding orange wine sector: an area of the market gaining more widespread distribution
With hues ranging from light amber to golden
orange wines gain their distinctive appearance from letting the skins of white grapes leach their colour and phenolics into the must and fermenting wine over the course of days or weeks
rather than the normal approach for white grapes
which is to immediately press the berries to release the liquid from the colourless pulp
with some grapes better-suited to creating an orange hue
the berries need careful handling to ensure they impart colour
but not bitter-tasting tannins from the skins
with Bertand admitting to db that he had embraced the orange wine category because he had sampled so many disappointing examples
“I’ve tried many orange wines over the last 10 years
and three years ago I asked my team to buy all the ‘good’ orange wines in the market and we tasted them together,” he told db in an exclusive interview last month
adding that this sampling exercise comprised as many as 85 bottles
‘we should re-invent the wheel’; I was a little bit sad
but the rest had problems: too much bitterness
What followed was an intense period of experimentation in the cellar
with Bertrand trialling different grapes and processes
The aim was not just to get the colour right
but also the taste and texture: “The idea was to move from strong to light bitterness
He also recalled that “Grenache [blanc] is very good for orange wine
Viognier too – because the skins easily turn the wine orange – and Chardonnay is also very interesting
but Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t work: the colour never goes orange
even if you leave it for two months in the vats.”
Bertrand’s Orange Gold brand incorporates Grenache Blanc
Viognier and Chardonnay – as well as Muscat (“for its aromatic qualities”)
and certain other local grapes of the Languedoc
which he leaves to ferment without crushing them in vats
although he adds press juice to the blend too
“because that brings a lot of complexity as well as colour”
“We have experimented with stainless steel
wine globes – and done a mix of all these…
but developing the complexity of ageing is also interesting
which allows you to develop the aromatic complexity and polish the tannins
structure and complexity and not too much bitterness and no tannin
“The secret of wine is to pour a second glass
and to have a second glass of orange wine you have to be very delicate in the winemaking process.”
As for the occasions when one might serve an orange wine
Bertrand is excited to see that his “grand vin”
“is poured in the best restaurants of the world,” and stressed that “a good orange wine goes with all spectrum of cheeses
because a goat’s cheese goes with a white wine; a camembert with red
but a good orange wine goes with all types
and so orange wine is a game changer for cheeses,” he stated
noting that “it’s now a question of developing a wine-by-the-glass programme everywhere in the world to give wine lovers and consumers a chance to try orange wines.”
This is something he has already been doing
so that his orange wines are now “selling in 50 countries in the world,” adding
and pay tribute to the Georgian people – who have made orange wines for 8,000 years – but now we are helping the category to be developed.”
Bertrand believes that his widely-distributed
affordable and “drinkable” orange wines – such as Orange Gold (RRP
around £17) and Naturae (RRP £10) – “have democratised orange wine
“The orange wine category is booming,” noting
“The expertise of somms helps a lot – they are trend setters
“Orange wines are not only for geeks or experts
the category is growing double or triple digits everywhere
and I think we will see in the next five years that there are all four colours in the most exciting places.”
he told db that it was a new set of drinkers that are embracing the category
“Influencers really enjoy orange wine; this is a wine for Generation Z
it is a really good opportunity for a younger generation to enjoy wine
“And a younger generation enjoy wine in cocktails
so we are seeing that orange wine can help the wine category arrive in bars,” he noted
With Bertand’s own Languedoc-based wine business now making more than 500,000 bottles of orange wine
with plans to produce 800,000 bottles next year
he admitted that he is becoming a major player in the market
Languedoc is becoming a centre for the style outside of Georgia
More generally he forecasted further growth for orange wine
“I think the category will develop for sure and we will see more players
producers and negociants develop orange wine
“I think the future will remain bright for orange wine.”
Is orange wine the ‘drink of the summer’?
a series of events taking place in four premier wine hubs across the UK
dedicated to showcasing the exceptional character of AOPs wines from the Languedoc
The first two quizzes took place in Bristol and Manchester and drew together fans of wine who were ready and willing for their perception of the French region to be put to the test
The Languedoc Quiz is a new concept developed by the Languedoc Wines council to foster a strong and emotional connection to the region
Featuring a selection of more than 15 exquisite wines and some of their producers
it combines a playful and educative approach centred on Languedoc wines and its region
creating a memorable and distinctive experience
Presented by renowned wine writer Chris Losh
promises to be an enlightening and enjoyable journey through the diverse and dynamic world of Languedoc wines
The quiz features four fun and engaging rounds: the Picture Round
offering participants a playful yet informative exploration of this celebrated wine region
Come and immerse yourself in the vibrant world of Languedoc
Become an enthusiastic ambassador of Languedoc Wines by registering below
Between the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees
Languedoc has established itself among consumers as France’s new region for fine wines
In the foothills of the Pyrenees and the Massif Central
overlooking the Mediterranean to the West at altitudes ranging from 100 to 450m above sea level
landscapes and climates have given appellations in this region
The world’s largest wine region is home to 20 Languedoc appellations creating a colourful (red
irresistible boulangeries and bustling markets
France elevates the self-catering stay to another level
you can take the ferry or LeShuttle from Folkestone
filling your car with goodies en route (while trying not to get lost in cavernous hypermarchés)
This is a country that caters to every kind of holiday in style
you really won’t want to check out of your home-from-home.The picks below all offer something special — be it a private pool
or cinema room — making a great base for you to explore and unwind
Here are our favourite holiday villas in France for your next trip
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Château SeiguierOLIVER’S TRAVELS££ | SLEEPS 12 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for living like a lord
Always wanted to stay in a magnificent 17th-century castle in France
Château Seiguier is your ticket — and while it may look suitably baroque
inside you’ll find all of the conveniences of a modern build
Bagsy the standout top-floor bedroom; the exposed original beams are gorgeous and the bed was owned by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
Prolong your newfound sense of grandeur with a visit to nearby royal castles and world-famous vineyards
or stay at home and make the most of the 2.5-acre garden that includes a fishing pond and swimming pool
Just keep an eye out for impromptu guests; deer often come to graze in the grounds
• Read our full guide to France• The best thing about going abroad? Visiting the supermarkets
Chez le VigneronOLIVER’S TRAVELS££ | SLEEPS 8 | POOL | Best for vineyard hopping
Chez Le Vigneron in the heart of the Languedoc vineyards is now yours for the taking
There’s plenty of space — over three floors — and if you come with another party or older kids there’s an apartment just across the courtyard offering separate living space
You’re within easy strolling distance of two bakeries and a restaurant and
Haute-SavoieOVONETWORK.COM£ | SLEEPS 12 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for year-round mountain solitude
a bubble sauna and a hot tub all with panoramic mountain views make Chalet Manoe feel away from it all
Regular live music events happen at Lo Garâjo
and it’s 30 minutes’ drive from the slopes of La Clusaz for winter skiing
Light wood interiors and an abundance of indoor and outdoor seating space for large groups make this a great choice year round
and the almost total absence of light pollution lends this chalet to stargazing
Belle VueOLIVER’S TRAVELS£££ | SLEEPS 8 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for a pool with a view
Immerse yourself in the valley of the Dordogne without leaving the Belle Vue and your biggest decision will be the vantage point from which you choose to swoon over those sweeping hills: the fabulous terrace that traces the full length of the house or the pool deck that extends over the valley on stilts
Toasting the spectacular views with a glass of champagne is obligatory
Villa ShambhalaOLIVER’S TRAVELS£££ | SLEEPS 8 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for a river view
Villa Shambhala is hard to beat location-wise
near some of the best vineyards in the world and overlooking the banks of the Dordogne
You’ll find plenty of places to soak up those river views — try the spacious terrace with a dining set first
The interior design is artistic and rustic and the shops and patisseries of Pessac-sur-Dordogne are a 20-minute wander away
Hunt out the honesty bar in the salle d’été: it’s stocked up with local wines
Rouge CottageOLIVER’S TRAVELS£ | SLEEPS 5 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for food
Quaintly named Rouge Cottage is a secluded
petite property that peers out at the stirring Limousin countryside
Come for lots of brood-pleasing treats: a private pool
pretty gardens and — best of all — a castle-style treehouse
If you can tempt the little ones down from their new hideout
You’ll also find three swimming lakes within ten minutes of the property that have sandy beaches
try Espace Hermeline in Bussière-Galant for swimming
Manoir ClementOLIVER’S TRAVELS£££ | SLEEPS 10 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for entertaining
Botanical Manoir Clement is surrounded by blooming
landscaped gardens and overlooks a huge heated pool
but the real star of the show is the sun-drenched terrace
complete with a barbecue and plenty of sunbeds
Manoir Clement is half an hour from the coast and there are many cutesy villages to be explored in the surrounding mountains
Take home a signature holiday scent: Grasse
A Lumipod at La Prairie by Oasis HouseCHAU CUONG LÊ£££ | SLEEPS 24 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for easy access to Paris
La Prairie by Oasis House has space for the largest of families
and an abundance of activities to keep everyone busy
the two Lumipods in the 125sq m grounds provide the perfect retreat
with ceiling-to-floor glass windows for stargazing
All the bedrooms in the main building are en suite and the villa even has its own library
Mas MayeauxOLIVER’S TRAVELS£££ | SLEEPS 12 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for big groups
a private estate in Provence made up of the main house
Should you still seek a moment of peace there are 1.5 acres of landscaped gardens and fruit trees
and a shared swimming pool is perfect for long sunny days — as are the barbecue
hire a car and explore the region’s rolling lavender landscapes and hillside vineyards
Time your visit for the Vaison Danses festival in July
• Best time to visit France• Best things to do in France
Mas Art et SoleilOLIVER’S TRAVELS£££ | SLEEPS 6 | POOL | Best for artistic edge and A-List appeal
The natural light and stylish design throughout this Provence farmhouse are dead giveaways that Mas Art et Soleil was once an artist’s studio
there’s plenty of masterpiece-worthy inspiration outside — it’s surrounded by the vineyards and olive groves of Alpilles Natural Park
with a tranquil pool and gardens on the doorstep
It’s one of the prettiest hilltop villages in Provence — a handful of A-listers have already snapped up holiday homes here
Le Jardin SecretOLIVER’S TRAVELS£ | SLEEPS 8 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for privacy
but Le Jardin Secret in sunny Languedoc is a relatively untapped 18th-century treasure
Its south-facing terrace looks out onto the Pyrenees and Black Mountains
The medieval town of Carcassonne is a 30-minute drive away
Villa RomaneOLIVER’S TRAVELS££ | SLEEPS 16 | POOL | Best for Provençal vibes
You’ll spend most of your time splashing about Villa Romane’s Roman-style circular swimming pool or debating whether the panoramic views of Provence and the Rhône valley look best from the upper or ground floor
pick between six fabulous bedrooms and five bathrooms (so no need to quibble over who uses the shower first)
Take a stroll and head to the gorgeous Provençal village of Beaucaire for a clutch of boulangeries
Villa XavierOLIVER’S TRAVELS£££ | SLEEPS 12 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for luxury
Every inch of Villa Xavier has been designed to induce squeals of glee: from its huge heated swimming pool
to the underground wine cellar where you’ll find the best local vintages
It’s possible to book day trips on the owner’s private boat
or a fitness coach to help you get into shape if you’ve gone understandably overboard at the boulangerie
you can point him in the direction of the villa’s own cigar humidor
Maison SebastienOLIVER’S TRAVELS££ | SLEEPS 13 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for showstopper vistas
Built in the 14th century as a lookout tower
Maison Sebastien does indeed have see-it-all views: from its rooftop terrace you can gaze over oak forests
There are countless comfortable nooks in which to relax — from the cinema room and living area with wood-burning stove
Head to the bustling local market in Forcalquier to add local delicacies to your picnics or dine at the village of St Michel L’Observatoire — there are plenty of restaurants to try
Gîte Les Barts in Loubès-BernacBOOKING.COM£ | SLEEPS 4 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for getting away from it all
Get a taste of local life with a stay in this light-filled two-bedroom gîte set within its own flower-filled grounds
Come summer and you’ve got your own garden accessed via patio doors and when winter sets in you can get cosy by the log burner in the lounge
Explore the village of Loubès-Bernac — tucked between Duras and Bergerac — and the 14th-century castle at Monbazillac
Château GaillacOLIVER’S TRAVELS££ | SLEEPS 20 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for an escape to le château
this property offers bags of character for what’s a very decent price considering the number of people you can host in its ten belle époque-style bedrooms
The stay is made even better by the fact that your booking comes with a case of wine
made by the vignerons working in the adjacent vineyards
there’s a lap pool with plenty of lounger space and a sprawling garden to explore
and bikes that they can take out to explore
Mas De BeauceOLIVER’S TRAVELS£ | SLEEPS 8 | POOL | Best for channelling history
Step inside this 14th-century manor house and it’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time
lounge and bedrooms all retain their period features
but you’ll be pleased to know that the house has been modernised where it matters — principally the bathrooms and kitchen
The area around the property is all farm land
and is ideal for those looking for a rural break with bucolic strolls through the countryside
though a pool on site means you can lounge under the sun too
Casarella CesarinaJON INGALL££ | SLEEPS 4 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for mountain views
Perched on a hillside overlooking Calvi Bay
this two-bedroom villa has smashing views of La Balagne’s mountains from the sweeping terrace and swimming pool
with antique pieces alongside wrought-iron lamps
It’s a 15-minute walk downhill to the bars and restaurants
although with a barbecue and sheltered pergola at the villa
La Maison du Mûrier£££ | SLEEPS 10 | POOL | FAMILY-FRIENDLY | Best for larger families
This Grand Designs-meets-17th-century farmhouse in the southwestern Hautes Alpes
two hours’ drive from the nearest airport (Grenoble Alpes Isère)
is a true labour of love — much of the interior
It’s full of thoughtful touches such as a pasta machine
is only 30 minutes’ drive away but in summer the hills come alive with flowers
cyclists and natural gorges where the brave can take a dip
• Best holiday villas in Spain• Best luxury villas in Turkey
Additional reporting by Qin Xie and Maria Realf
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From country houses and mountain chalets to seaside chambres d’hôte and cool city pads
our France travel expert picks her favourite boltholes
Carolyn Boyd is the author of Amuse Bouche: How to Eat Your Way Around France is published by Profile Books (£18.99). To support the Guardian and the Observer order your copy at guardianbookshop.com
What was once one of the most planted grape varieties in France, Carignan was overtaken by international varieties such as Merlot at the end of the 20th century
A grape known by many names including Cariñena
Carignano in Italy and Carignane in the United States
this red grape variety is characterised by thick-skinned berries and high-yielding vines which can retain acidity
Syrah and Mourvèdre are common blending partners
The wine was described by the judges as utterly superb and stylish with a delicate texture and lustrous tannins
Chile also saw success with two Gold medals awarded; Italy and France too with a selection of 90+ point varietal wines and blends to seek out
Carignan Day is held every year on the last Thursday in October. To celebrate, we highlight 10 awarded Carignan-dominant wines from DWWA 2024 to try., with more to search at awards.decanter.com
By Faye Bartle | Monday
Right: Jean-Claude Mas with TRBusiness’ Faye Bartle
a pipeline of innovations such as Rosorange and the ability to bring bespoke bottle art to market in just three months
Domaines Paul Mas is poised to grow its travel retail business with Asia a key target
TRBusiness embarked on a trade media exclusive visit to the Languedoc wine producer to meet with Owner Jean-Claude Mas and discover more about the company’s plans to leverage the appeal of its ‘old world wines with new world attitude’ to tap into opportunities in the channel
“I believe the way travel retail has become now
is like a hypermarket so we have to consider it as a strategic channel to be in
direct and cellar door – all those are ‘new age’ distribution channels that we really have to do properly,” said Jean-Claude Mas
effectively spearheading the family’s transition from vineyard owners
By boldly snapping up land and vineyards in the region – “they weren’t as expensive as you may think,” he says – the company now commands more than 940 hectares of vines on its own estates in the Languedoc-Roussillon region (up from 75 hectares when Jean-Claude Mas first took the helm) – 30% of which are organic
The state-of-the-art Clos Astelia winery is inspired by nature
Fifty different grape varieties are planted across a variety of terroirs
Grapes are assigned to the most compatible growing conditions – “all are giving extremely good results
if you know where to plant them,” he reveals
There’s also a dedicated ‘test bed’ for new varieties helping to future-proof the harvest
With 14 wineries (the two main ones being Astelia and Nicole) and its own bottling facility with the capacity to produce 26 million bottles a year under 17 different labels
the company has reached its optimum volume output for the foreseeable future and is now focusing on maximising the performance of its offering
Left: Jean-Claude Mas takes a pause in the community church situated beside the historic family estate in Pézenas
Right: Signature wines of Domaines Paul Mas
“We have full control from the vineyards to the bottle so there is a level where it is not better to go higher
but to master what you do and to get more value out of it – that is where I see the next 20 years going,” he said
The wine is available in 80 countries with France accounting for 20-25% of its business and travel retail taking a 2% slice (mostly inflight
including with Qatar Airways which serves selected wines to Business Class passengers)
the company is focusing on bringing its distinctive brand of rural luxury to airport shops
Jean-Claude Mas surveys the vineyard situated next to the Musée Parc Des Dinosaures
“Wine in travel retail has strong potential
For the moment it is controlled by a few brands and I think the access cost is very high,” said Jean-Claude Mas
“There are few stores in terminals that have the sense of being wine stores
It’s a bit like food: when I see olive oil getting corners
“Travel retail has potential for us as the space for Languedoc wines is practically zero – there is very little space
Chateauneuf Du Pape and you see a bit of Languedoc
Readers may be most familiar with the company’s Arrogant Frog label
which Jean-Claude Mas says is its most successful
is key to helping consumers to better understand and appreciate the quality and the breadth of the entire Domaines Paul Mas portfolio
Left: Sampling a vibrant rosé in a specially designed bottle featuring geometric shapes
Right: Jean-Claude Mas at the tasting table
by bringing a sense of place and heritage to the fore
The four-strong collection of fine wines represent the diversity of terroirs within the same appellation and are described as a fusion of traditional winemaking and the modern approach to wine championed by Jean-Claude Mas
there’s the company’s signature wines – Astelia Le Grand Blanc
and Château Lauriga Côtes du Roussillon – which may also make their way into the channel at some point in the future due to their prominence in the portfolio and their higher price points (EUR40-50)
This is firmly in line with the company’s strategy to focus on exclusives
limited editions and other novelties like Rosorange (a cross between a rosé and an orange wine)
that will deliver a healthier profit margin
space costs a lot of money – the turnover and profit per square centimetre is looking to be the highest possible and that is probably one of our challenges,” said Jean-Claude Mas
Les Domaines Paul Mas unveiled its first ever travel retail exclusive wine range – Astelia – at the TFWA Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference in Singapore
Its first travel retail exclusive (TREX) wine range – Astelia – debuted at the Tax Free World Association (TFWA) Asia Pacific Exhibition & Conference in Singapore in May
It comprises three wines: Astelia Grangette 111
Cabernet Sauvignon; and Astelia Chalamat 178
with each bottle highlighting the unique characteristics of the vineyard by featuring a geological map of its plot
and 178 representing the altitude of each vineyard plot
These vines are planted within a radius of 2km
emphasising the paradoxical elements of a diverse yet harmonious terroir in the region
Only 12,000 of each of the TREX bottles have so far been produced
Left: A hand-painted Daum crystal bottle featuring artwork by CHAP
Right: Jean-Claude Mas is the driving force behind the vision to grow the brand in travel retail
Launched alongside was The Masterpiece collaboration with artist Christophe Heymann (known as ‘CHAP’)
Limited-Edition replicas mean more customers can collect and enjoy the designs at a lower price point – and this is where Jean-Claude Mas sees potential for introducing retailer exclusive designs in the channel
‘Sense of place’ sleeves are also an option
The recently released Clos Martinolles Crémant De Limoux Extrême may be another potential TREX according to Jean-Claude Mas
who add that it’s possible that the wine could be sold alongside the company’s honey and olive oil in the future to enhance the rural luxury message
A novel option that Jean-Claude Mas is mulling over at the moment is a travel retail exclusive range from a vineyard in Pézenas
which is situated on land where fossils and remains of dinosaur eggs have been discovered
Jean-Claude Mas said the vineyard situated next to the Musée Parc Des Dinosaures could inspire another TREX range
The pre-historic links of the area are highlighted at the neighbouring Musée Parc Des Dinosaures (the giant model dinosaur presiding over the landscape means you can’t miss it)
It’s an exciting story to tell and would be especially apt for a new TREX range (pun intended)
“This is a young vineyard – just five years old,” he said
tasting the viognier grapes to see if they are ready to harvest
“It’s a grape that goes well with fusion food – very versatile – which is why I think we are going to have a great success
As for this year’s harvest: “It’s not ready yet,” he asserts
“We will have to compromise between sugar level
acidity and yield – the more you wait the more yield you lose
The barrels are made of French and American oak for lending a toasted spicy character to the wines
The barrels are used for up to five years in total
he rests the wine in barrels made of French and American oak that lend a toasted spicy character (around 4-6 months for whites and 6-8 for reds)
It’s easy to understand how Claude Paul Mas has brought so much change to the family business – he is fearless in the pursuit of his vision (as I discovered as his passenger hurtling through the vineyards in a buggy at 60mph)
where the company has partnered with CoLab as the distributing partner for the Astelia TREX range
I think it is the most open market to innovation and probably the one with the least competition [for wines],” he explained
we are waiting for things to happen but we are looking at the big airports for travel retail
General Manager – APAC at CoLab said: “The range caters to the increasing demand for premium French wines in the region
where discerning wine consumers will appreciate the blend of tradition and innovation that Astelia embodies.”
Sleek furniture and display concepts have been created especially for travel retail
which spotlight the product while helping to tell the story of wines from Languedoc and the different sub-regions
the plan is for the three wines that are travel retail exclusives to be in 10 airports to reach a volume of sales of about 15-20,000 bottles per SKU – also to get some traction from the unique Daum crystal art bottle and to start to create a buzz about that,” said Jean-Claude Mas
“There has been a lot of interest from retailers following TFWA Singapore but listings are still to be confirmed
Now it’s a matter of making it to the public.”
READ MORE: Les Domaines Paul Mas launches Astelia travel retail exclusive range
READ MORE: TFWA AP: Singapore-based CoLab APAC to display expansion plans
TRBusiness Magazine is free to access. Read the latest issue now
and all important terroir that all come together to make the wines it hopes the world will enjoy
It has worked time and time again and there is nothing wrong with that
But when faced with creating the first major consumer and trade campaign for the AOP Languedoc
the smells and sounds that are so much the beating heart of what the Languedoc is
A campaign that highlights what Legrand describes as “the vibrations” of the region – encapsulated in the strapline: “Good Vibes
“We wanted to create a new identity that was a true reflection of the region,” he explains
The new campaign looks to bring to life the spirit and sensory experience of making wine in the Languedoc
He says he has been particularly pleased by the strong positive response the campaign has had from the region’s older
more traditional producers – potentially the hardest stakeholders to please – who have tapped into how relevant the campaign is to the way they make their wine
“It’s a campaign that is all about what they do,” he stresses
A campaign that looks to capture the all round sensory experience of making wine in the AOP Languedoc
the key goal of the campaign was to make an emotional connection with wine drinkers that will hopefully make them come back to discover more of its wines
“We wanted a campaign that would make them more loyal to the Languedoc so they would come back for more?” he says
AOP Languedoc wants to break into the top 20 most recognised wine regions in the world
It’s why it has set itself the target of being in the consumer’s top 20 most recognised wine producing regions in the world – up from its current position of 26 and an awareness ranking
This compares to the top ranking region – Champagne – with 78% awareness
But then its ranking sits higher than other more traditional and long standing regions
like Mendoza in Argentina (38th position) and Stellenbosch in South Africa (35th)
considering it was only founded 15 years ago
To help bring that sensory experience to life the campaign uses a combination of vibrant
bright colours with posters showing the colours that come out when you look at white
rosé and red AOP Languedoc wines through a microscope
Wines that are “vibrating with our passion” to make great quality wines
Good Wines’ campaign will be rolled out across the trade in October and then out to consumers with a mixture of targeted
above the line campaigns in the coming months
including a link up with key restaurants that have good links to the Languedoc
It also has plans to roll the campaign out to other key international markets
in 2023 and across 2024 where it will be making a big splash at both Wine Paris & Vinexpo Paris and ProWein
Legrand says the theme of the campaign would be ideal for potential immersive tastings and events in the future and he is keen to look at events and opportunities where they can play on the emotional and sensory experience of enjoying wine
AOP Languedoc has enjoyed strong success in the UK over recent years despite Brexit and Covid
It is certainly seems a good time for AOP Languedoc to be investing in spreading the word about what the region – now the number one appellation in the overall Languedoc – can offer
Its 10,000 hectares of vineyards helped produce 250,000hl in 2022 with over half of its wine now made up of rosé (55%)
Which in itself is a marked shift from the situation 10 years ago where the majority of its production was for red wines
That switch has helped see its exports grow
with 17 million bottles of AOP Languedoc exportedin 2022 (up 120% on 2005)
Exports now account for 45% of sales compared with 39% for all Languedoc appellations
In the last 10 years overall sales have risen by 75% by volume and 150% by value
Its biggest markets outside France are now the US (23%)
Its exports have been driven by the increased demand in rosé which now makes up 70% of its exports and have increased in volume by 160% in the last 10 years
Its UK performance – up nearly 14% in sales between 2017 and 2022 – is particularly strong considering it has faced Brexit
Languedoc’s share of the French AOP wine market is now 6.5% compared to 5% in 2021 and AOP Languedoc has seen its UK supermarket sales increase by 6.6% in the last three years
AOP Languedoc is made up of four departments Hérault
Aude and Pyrenées Orientales and stretches from Collioure
Up to 30% of its growers are committed to agro-environmental actions and labels of which 15% are organic
I received an unexpected call on my French mobile purporting to be from the local branch of my bank (Crédit Agricole Languedoc)
When the caller said she had a list of questions about him for me
I became suspicious and replied that I had no way of knowing whether she was really calling me from CA and we would visit the bank tomorrow and give them the answers
I expected her to back off at this point but
The following afternoon we turned up at the local bank branch
the phone call turned out to have been genuine
When I explained why I had refused to give the information over the phone
the bank employee gave me a look of withering contempt and said that we should have known the call was genuine as it would have been presented as ‘Crédit Agricole Languedoc’ on my phone and that it was a legal requirement for the bank to update its customers’ details by phone from time to time
Read more: Fraudsters target bank cards in your pocket in new scam in France
I pointed out that phone numbers can be faked on incoming calls
if a customer is taken in by ‘Crédit Agricole Languedoc’ showing up as the caller and it turns out not to be the case
the bank will automatically refund any money stolen from my account
which confirms that caller identities most certainly CAN be falsified in France
It seems to me that the UK is years ahead of France in banking security
If the bank’s own employees will not play ball
we have to redouble our efforts to stay safe
Send us your own views and experiences via letters@connexionfrance.com
The legislation has sparked debate over financial regulations
There is some good news for international banking and instant transfers
Around a third of physical branches will close amid ‘changes in the way people bank’
A late heatwave in the south of the Languedoc has led to a significant reduction in yields
though producers are keen to stress the quality of the 2023 harvest
Vineyards in the north of the region are reporting average or even good harvests
according to The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL)
the late heatwave in the south caused berries which were already small to dry out
leading to regional production down 15% compared to the five-year average
Indeed, Guillaume Barraud, director of Gérard Bertrand estates
witnessed a “noticeable difference between the southern part and the northwest part of the region”
with the south of France experiencing extremely dry conditions “once again”
Barraud told the drinks business: “At the beginning of summer
surpassing the average of the last five years
We counted around ten buds per vine at the start of summer
a very dry early summer led to a natural selection of buds
we even carried out thinning ourselves.”
Coastal areas within 20km of the shores had to cope with significant drought from the month of July
compared to a “more substantial water supply” in the northwest regions
Vignobles Bonfils
which controls 17 vineyards dotted around the Languedoc-Roussillon
experienced a harvest “on par with the average for the region as a whole”
according to general director Laurent Bonfils
“The explanation is simple,” he said; “a heatwave accentuated by a lack of water”
Bonfils explained that the heatwave arrived very late in August in 2023
“when the vines were almost fully mature”
the situation is less disparate in terms of quality
with producers reporting positively about the juice
France is not the only winemaking nation whose yields are being impacted by extreme weather. Across 29 different countries, drought and disease have caused wine production to hit a 60-year low, although a reduced 2023 harvest could help alleviate oversupply due to falling consumption, says the OIV. Read more on that story here.
Spring frosts and summer hail were key markers of the 2022 growing season in the Languedoc
the vintage is set to be “the best since 2011”
Extreme weather patterns have become commonplace in the Languedoc region of France
frosts in April were followed by hail in June
But with the harvest completed and the grapes now safely in the wineries
producers are beginning to breathe a sigh of relief
sunshine and wind reduced the risk of disease
and some grape varieties made rapid progress which led to an early start to harvesting
some Languedoc winegrowers began picking grapes in July
Richard Planas, director of Gérard Bertrand estates, said the 69 days of harvest experienced by the estate was “unheard of”.
called the first wines of the vintage “bright
“The reason for this is that the levels of ripeness promoted quick
culminating in an explosion of fruits and silky tannins on the palate
reaching unusually high levels of expressiveness,” she said
The Languedoc 2022 vintage offers promise for the future of the region’s wines
despite the challenge of rising production costs which continue to cause concern
the growing season got off to a good start
dry in some places but sufficient rainfall in others
Pic St Loup
one of the wettest appellations in the region
‘This allowed for good fruitset,’ said Victorine Fraisse of Domaine de Villeneuve
winemaker at Le Chemin des Rêves and president of the Pic St Loup appellation
added that there was about 200mm of rain during these two months
so ‘the vines were therefore able to approach summer with beautiful canopies
but there was strong mildew pressure to control’
No rest for the wicked: the wet conditions meant ‘being ever present in the vines’
said Cyriaque Rozier of Château La Roque and Château Fontanès
but those that were organised enough were able to treat it
Treatment with copper and sulphur was widespread throughout the region
This rainy spring in Pic St Loup meant the vines had good water reserves going into summer
‘which makes a change from the previous vintage’
‘and the vines were able to resist the first heat of the summer months.’
other areas of the Languedoc were in desperate need of rain throughout the growing season
points out that the winter was very dry there; where annual rainfall is about 600mm
this year they had just 350mm between last year’s harvest and the beginning of August this year
In La Clape, the season started with very little rainfall. This was assuaged somewhat by downpours in mid-July, and the state of the grapes at that stage was excellent, with large bunches at fruitset according to François Bouscary of Château Rouquette sur Mer.
In Picpoul de Pinet the disease pressure was lower, but the drought was felt keenly, and as a result ‘the berries are very small’, said Claude Jourdan of Domaine Félines Jourdan.
The drought put many vines into hydric stress, and caused widespread blockages in maturity – 2023’s slogan was ‘still no rain,’ said Jourdan.
There are reports, though, that some varieties are managing the stress better than expected. ‘We’re realising that the vines are reacting very well,’ said Brigitte Chevalier of Domaine de Cébène in Faugères, ‘they stop growing, producing less leaves, thus limiting evapotranspiration.’
‘The vines surprise us with their resistance,’ added Clémence Fabre of Famille Fabre in the Corbières.
But as the end of August arrived, so did disaster: 20 August brought an intense heatwave right across the region which saw temperatures rocket to 43 degrees and last for four days. This was compounded by nighttime temperatures not dropping below 30 degrees.
‘It was catastrophic,’ said Xavier Ledogar of Domaine Ledogar in the cru of Boutenac in the Corbières, an area which suffered particularly badly. He reported that in many plots the vines’ leaves were burned, and with no shade left to protect them, the grapes burned too. ‘This is the first time I’ve seen this,’ he said.
‘The heatwave accelerated maturity,’ said Xavier Bruguière of Mas Bruguière, and for many harvest was brought forward earlier than expected.
Ultimately the extent of the damage depended on variety (Syrah was in a bad way), soil type (deep roots in schist soils fared better), and water reserves (Pic St Loup’s spring rains helped).
As might be expected from such lack of water, in general berries were small, with little juice, so yields in general were down. That being said, there were some surprising instances of abundant yields and lots of juicy grapes.
‘Despite the fear, the drought, the heat and the few plots in distress, the vintage is very pretty,’ said Charlotte de Béarn of Château de Jonquières in Terrasses du Larzac.
How can vignerons maintain morale in the face of worsening extremes? Many don’t. One thing is certain: you need incredible resilience to be a vigneron in these times.
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is the region that’s unfolding before our eyes
In the way that we’d love to go back to Burgundy and see the nascence of Burgundy when the discoveries were made,” says La Pèira’s Robert Dougan.La Pèira is in the Terrasses du Larzac
whose terroir is known for bringing freshness to its wines
If you were a sommelier presenting a wine to a customer, how does this sound for a compelling backstory? Robert Dougan wrote the track “Clubbed to Death” which featured in the soundtrack of the Matrix film, made his fortune from it, bought a no-hope vineyard called La Pèira in the undistinguished Languedoc wine region and
is making wines that are internationally recognised as stunning
remains self-effacing and insists that his real passion isn’t wine at all
Shakespeare and the ancient French language Occitan
The only catch is that the production volumes of the wines are small
Wines are produced in a few thousand or even a few hundred bottles for each vintage
Corney & Barrow
which now distributes four La Pèira wines from 2019 and 2020
invited us to a lunch hosted for Dougan at its Wapping HQ in London
who is dressed rather like a well turned-out merchant banker
he has immediate presence and charisma – rather like his wines
It’s hard not to like him partly because of his self-deprecating candour
that the vineyard was “shamed” into going organic once that became widespread
La Pèira has 15 hectares in Terrasses du Larzac
the Languedoc appellation north west of Montpellier
the whites are labelled as Pays d’Hérault IGP
All four of the wines have an ABV of 14.5%
Autumn rains led into a mild December and warm February
There was then a dry summer without heatwaves
The cheaper of the whites is Deusyls de La Pèira Blanc 2020 (£175 case of six bottles in bond)
This is the estate’s second white with four varietals
There are aromas of pear and peach and even this entry level wine is luscious and full
On to La Pèira Blanc 2020 (£395 for six bottles)
they found three rows lurking in a plot of Syrah which the previous owners had chosen to ignore
which broke France’s historical record (since beaten by 2022)
Then an extended summer period made for a concentrated vintage with tannic strength and lower acidities
Las Flors de La Pèira 2019 (£235 for six bottles) is the second red wine of La Pèira
With bramble and both white and black pepper notes this is fresh and opulent
we sample Las Pèira les Terrasses du Larzac 2019 (£395 for six bottles)
This is predominantly Syrah with some Grenache
This is red that is far denser and more powerful
There’s a wonderful silky texture and dense fruit flavour
it’s a bridge between wines for the expert and wines for newcomers likely to be put off by aggressive tannins
Last year I had the rare experience of trying some of the wines of Napa Valley icon Tor Kenward in London
he believes that where the Languedoc is right now is a special moment in time – much like the birth of the great wine regions
In the way that we’d love to go back to Burgundy and see the nascence of Burgundy when the discoveries were made,” says Dougan
“What would we not pay to go back to that time
wonderful expressions in their first moment of lighting that flame
when the Dutch engineers were draining the swamps
and they were going to plant the first of these famous vines
When they had no certainty about what was going to be achieved
“But we have that process unfolding before our eyes
and we can do that in the French wine region
and we can do that in a wine region that’s not just making history now but is also the oldest wine region in France
and we can be a part of that is exciting.”
The wines of La Pèira are imported and sold in the UK by Corney & Barrow which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here
as well as many beautiful villages and towns in which to base themselves
tourists are spoiled for choice when it comes to taking a wine holiday in the Languedoc
There are companies that arrange wine tours across the region
which can work well if you don’t have access to a car or if you’re keen to be accompanied by a knowledgeable guide
can leave you free to explore wineries at your own pace
and driving through the back roads is a great way to really get to know a region and its surroundings
Always call or email the winery in advance to make an appointment
or to double check that someone will be there when you turn up
Lunchtime is sacrosanct – avoid visiting wineries between 12pm and 2pm
Some wineries charge a small fee for a visit and a tasting
which is sometimes waived if you purchase wine at the end of the tour
Château Castigno’s wine cellar and tasting space
On the road between St-Chinian and Minerve – two villages well worth exploring – is the Village & Château Castigno
Set up by Belgian entrepreneur Marc Verstraete
the property has 32ha of vines as well as a hotel
The unusual and rather conspicuous building that houses the cellar and tasting room
brought into being by Belgian designer Lionel Jadot
takes the form of a giant wine bottle laid on its side
The overall design aesthetic is somewhat…eclectic: the hotel
restaurants and generally anything related to Castigno are all painted in vibrant shades of pink
purple and red (supposedly representing the many shades of red wine)
the colour scheme may not be to everyone’s taste
Yet it can’t be denied that the overall experience is of very high quality
and many of the greatest pleasures come in the smallest details
The winemaking – previously overseen by Rhône-based winemaking consultants Michel Tardieu and Philippe Cambie – and general management of the estate has relatively recently (2021) been taken over by Alsatian-born Clément Mengus
Mengus insisted on converting to biodynamics and he has brought a refreshing lightness of touch to the range
It’s worth visiting Château de Jonquières for historical interest alone
Two imposing cylindrical turrets encase the west wing of the château
while the east wing backs onto a wide courtyard
leads from the apartments into the courtyard and is one of the château’s most magnificent architectural masterpieces
the family history of the estate is equally impressive
claiming to have been passed down through 32 generations over 900 years
After François de Cabissole and his wife Isabelle – the 31st generation – restarted vinification at the château in 1992
it is now their daughter Charlotte and her husband Clément who carry the estate’s legacy forward
having taken over the 8ha of vines and production in 2014 and converted the estate to organic
and there are also four guest bedrooms inside the château itself
the southernmost peak of the Larzac plateau some 15km to the north of Jonquières
which is home to some mighty players in the development of the appellation
as well as fresh new faces such as Domaine Flo Busch
featuring a photography exhibition by Emmanuel Perrin
an appellation which hugs the first foothills of the Cévennes mountains and is the wettest in the Languedoc
‘La garrigue n’est jamais très loin,’ says Jean-Benoît Cavalier of Château de Lascaux: the garrigue is never far away
The lumpy relief of the surrounding area traps cool air flowing down from the north
creating significant day and night temperature differences – a noticeable continental influence
Yet the Mediterranean sunshine is still impactful – we’re in the Languedoc
Sisters Marie and Maguelone joined their parents Jean-Benoît and Isabelle
in the running of the estate in 2019 and 2020 respectively
and they now work together as a family unit
Syrah is in the limelight here; the wines are striking
contrasts with the ancient priory across the street
which houses the oenothèque (collection of previous vintages) and the tasting room
art exhibitions and events make this a vibrant spot to visit
An important estate in the heart of the huge
within the only (official) Corbières cru of Boutenac
The domaine is well set up for receiving visitors
The vines of Château Rouquette sur Mer in La Clape which overlook the Mediterranean sea
One of the most striking aspects about this family-run estate is just how close it is to the sea; the château itself is less than 1km as the crow flies from the blue waters of the Mediterranean
The vineyards stretch back from the château up onto the limestone chunk that is the La Clape massif
it’s not hard to imagine why the wines have a distinct saline tang
especially the incredibly good value white Cuvée Arpège
This appellation is part of a highly protected natural area
meaning it has maintained its wildness despite its proximity to the tourist-laden beaches that line its eastern flank
are the ruins of the ancient Château Rouquette
Guided visits of the château and the vineyards are offered
as well as tastings and a well-stocked shop
Brigitte Chevalier among her old Carignan vines in Faugères
In fact it was one of her prerequisites when searching for vineyards at the start of her winemaking journey: schist; altitude; north facing slopes
But there was something about the Languedoc: ‘a land of discoverers
The Faugères appellation extends southwest from her domaine
a landscape truly dominated by this metamorphic rock
which both sits on top of and is partly buried in a small hill
you can see southwards: vineyards interspersed with scrubby garrigue
She has continued to refine over the years
moving away from small oak barrels and towards ceramic eggs and terracotta jars
‘Schist terroirs produce quite sensitive wines,’ she says
‘barrels don’t really justify themselves.’ The wines are structured with satin tannins by themselves
The tasting room overlooks the cellar at Domaine de la Dourbie
Domaine de la Dourbie is situated between the river Herault and the smaller Dourbie tributary
manage to be both beautifully sleek and modern
The team has developed an interactive wine tour of the grounds – which have been classified as a Jardin Remarquable (‘remarkable garden’) by the French state – following each step of the vine growing and winemaking process
The domaine was bought in 2003 by Emmanuel Serin and his father
the domaine has gradually found its purpose
I sense that the domaine has found its groove
This is a winery that is not afraid to push boundaries
adapting its practices and moulding each wine each year to the style it is looking for
Organic viticulture; no overt oak; long ageing in a variety of vessels such as clay eggs
and a selection of barrels (some of which are made from both oak and acacia)
something that you don’t usually see in Languedoc,’ says Graell
forward-thinking outfit that still has its feet firmly in the Languedoc: ‘We only use Mediterranean varieties
The restaurant at Domaine Sarrat de Goundy is well worth a visit
you’ll be rewarded with magnificent sunset views over the vines
convivial wooden table rubbing shoulders with the clay jarres
in which some of the domaine’s wines are peacefully ageing
cycling and pique-nique-ing in the vines are also part of what’s on offer
you are sure to get a good impression of the La Clape appellation and the resulting wines
the village of Minerve is probably on your list of places to see
Perched above the gorge of the Cesse river
the village is the site of some rather fraught history during the time of the Albigensian Crusade
when the Cathars were violently massacred across Occitanie
Not far from Minerve is the village of La Caunette
yet there’s a considerable 45ha farmed biodynamically
across many small plots which have differing soil types: limestone
with the Pic St Loup on the left and the Montagne de l’Hortus on the right
sleek tasting room is a welcome respite from the summer heat
the wines are compelling; firm in their youth but refined
One dramatic plot sits right at the foot of the Montagne de l’Hortus
Here a huge boulder sits in the middle of the vineyard
and the legend goes that it broke off from the Hortus mountain
tumbled down and crushed a shepherdess and her flock – hence the name of this plot
you feel cradled between Hortus and the Pic St Loup itself
officially recognizing the oil’s unique characteristics and the local practices of olive growers in the region
The certification specifies that the oil is produced from olives of the Lucques and Olivière varieties
with each main variety accounting for no more than 70 percent of the oil
and that it must comply with strict specifications relating to the growing and processing of olives and the bottling of olive oil
Languedoc extra virgin olive oil from France has received a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) certification from the European Commission
The French olive oil was added to the European Union’s geographical indications (GI) register for food products under Huile d’olive du Languedoc on October 31st
after the application was submitted to the Commission in December 2020
The commission specified that Languedoc is a multivarietal olive oil chiefly produced from olives of the Lucques and Olivière varieties or a blend of the two with other traditional local olive varieties
Each main variety must account for no more than 70 percent of the oil
“Languedoc olive oil is now officially recognized as a protected designation of origin (PDO),” a press release by the French National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) said
“This recognition values the practices developed over time by local olive growers.”
“[The oil] is characterized by aromas of tomato and almond
sometimes accompanied by notes of apple
both olfactory and gustatory moderate bitterness and acidity on the palate,” the press release also stated
Languedoc extra virgin olive oil is produced in the Aude and Hérault geographical departments in the coastal region of Languedoc in southern France
which stretches from Provence to the Pyrenees Mountains on the country’s border with Spain
The PDO label certifies that the specific organoleptic characteristics of Languedoc extra virgin olive oil are due to the geographical location and local know-how in olive oil production
It also communicates the quality of the oil to European consumers
for a bottle of olive oil to be recognized as Languedoc PDO
it must comply with strict specifications relating to the growing and processing of olives and the bottling of olive oil
“It took 13 years to get there,” said Jean-Bernard Gieules
the head of the Lucques and Languedoc olive oil union
“This is a real recognition that began with the AOC [Appellation d’origine contrôlée] in 2020
And it completed the reputation [of the oil].”
Languedoc boasts a centuries-old tradition in olive growing
with historical records showing that the local economy was primarily olive-based from the mid-10th century
the area boasted a total of 150 olive oil mills
when temperatures plunged from 21 ºC during the day to –17 ºC at night
wiped out the olive groves throughout the region
devastating the local olive oil industry
which started to flourish again in the 1980s
More than 100 olive farmers now grow olive trees of Lucques and Olivière varieties on 192 hectares
The official recognition of Languedoc olive oil by the European Commission raises the number of French olive oils protected across the E.U
with a designation of origin status to nine
More articles on: European Commission, extra virgin olive oil, France
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Greece’s fourth-largest island is a well-known tourist destination
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The Syndicat du Bas Languedoc has entrusted the public service delegation of drinking water for the 27 municipalities1 that make up the Semi-Public Company with a Single Operation (SemOp) “Eau du Bas Languedoc”
40% owned by the local community and 60% by SUEZ
generating cumulative revenue of €130 million
In order to measure its impact on the planet and society
the SemOp “Eau du Bas Languedoc” becomes the first benefit corporation
The Illiwap application and the animation of social networks will ensure a dynamic communication
“Eau Du Bas Languedoc” SemOp – key figures:
1The Syndicat du Bas Languedoc brings together the following municipalities: Agde
2Based on the consumption of 120 m3 of drinking water
words: VinePair Staff
In this episode of “Wine 101,” VinePair’s tastings director Keith Beavers dives into the largest wine region in the world
Known for its distinct rebellious nature and pioneering efforts in the fight against fraudulent wine
the Languedoc is a unique region producing a number of incredible varietals
Listen on Apple Podcasts
Listen on Spotify
Keith Beavers: My name is Keith Beavers and in my algorithm
this new thing called FITSWORD just popped up
this is “Wine 101.” And my name is Keith Beavers
and we need to talk about the largest — one of the largest — wine-producing regions in the world and definitely in France: the Languedoc
I must say — and I do this sometimes because there are certain areas of the world that I just love
And I will say that this is going to sound weird
but the Languedoc or Languedoc or Languedoc is one of my favorite wine regions
And for a long time… When I had my wine shop back in the day
the whole idea of our wine shop was that we wanted to provide great wine at a low price
the wines of Southern France – specifically from Languedoc or Languedoc – were plentiful in our wine shop because the wines from this place on our market are very affordable and very expensive
but it’s a really awesome place to get started with just a French wine in general
In 2010 I had the opportunity to spend a whole week in this wine region
all the way to the Pyrenees and enjoyed this entire wine region
If you ever get a chance to hit up the Languedoc
let’s talk about this place because you’re probably like Languedoc
So the Languedoc is the biggest wine region in the world
The single biggest wine region in the world
That’s a lot to kind of wrap your mind around
but there’s this region that basically takes up almost the entire amphitheater-like coastline of Southern France
It’s kind of squashed in the middle; to the right, to the east you’ll have Provence then you’ll have the Rhône
you have a little region called Roussillon and then the Pyrenees
Languedoc and Roussillon have been kind of tied together
So you’ll often hear the Languedoc-Roussillon as one large region
And one of the reasons why we’re just doing Languedoc this episode
is Roussillon has its own specific personality that is absolutely separate
there are 700,000 acres of land under vine in the Languedoc
there is a stat that this region produced more wine in 2001 than the entire United States
but the way this works out is that you have this amphitheater-like coastline and as you move inland
you hit what’s called a coastal plain
And that coastal plain has a bunch of vines on it
we get into what it’s more of terraced-style vineyard space
And then if we go further inland or further into the hinterland of this wine region
There’s a lot of outcroppings and this is another area where vines are grown
So the Languedoc over time has developed three different areas of vine growth with three completely different climates and soils to work from
And how do I say this? The uniqueness and individuality of this particular wine region is that there are so many communes that make wine. There are a few that are prominent enough that we see them on the American market. It is a larger appellation
There is a Languedoc AOC with smaller appellations inside of it
but they’re not so much sub-appellations as they are their own appellations
but they’re also sometimes considered crus
And the way to really kind of just get Languedoc is just to understand what you see in the wine market here in the States and start there and then you can build from there
Because once you start getting a wine here or a wine there
you’re going to kind of get a sense of Languedoc and it’s going to be a really fun ride
And another reason why I say all this is [that] this region is known for its distinct
the winemakers of Languedoc have never really enjoyed the strict — or any — guidelines in regulation on how to make wine
They have taken their AOCs and their appellations with a grain of salt
this is the hotbed of what began the sort of fight against fraud in wine
which eventually would lead to literally the creation of appellation systems in the 1930s in France
And it’s a long story and I can’t get into it
but there was a time in Southern France where fraud was so rampant
meaning wines are being manipulated and called something that was famous and all that
but there’s also wines that were being made with not even grapes
the vine growers of this area demanded better
There were riots in Languedoc against the government
And the motto was natural wine because they wanted wine to be naturally made from the grapes that they grew and not from manipulated and fraudulent [grapes]
but it was a really great story where law was passed to begin the fight [against] fraudulent wine
There’s also a documentary out there called “Mondovino.” And one of the first scenes is this older man
“Wine is dead.” So you kind of get a sense of the sort of rebellious nature of the area
He just made wine outside of the AOC laws until he died
it’s thought that vines were first grown in this area in around 125 B.C
But the fate of this wine region since antiquity has been overproduction; even back during Roman times
there are reports of so much wine being made that it was overwhelming the distribution market
So a surplus of wine had to be sent to Rome itself to distribute among the people there just to kind of get this thing under control
And that happens over and over and over again throughout the history of Languedoc
And you can imagine that as surplus happens
So the fluctuation of price for wine in this area is kind of chaotic. And at times in history, things are developed to help this region, but they sometimes get knocked back down. For example, canals were built for trade, but by that point, Bordeaux was so popular that it dominated that sort of distribution channel
a railway was formed and this actually started helping out a lot
So it’s a huge chunk of the country and vines have been all over this place for quite some time. I don’t know, you’re probably going… Do you know what I’m going to say here? The monks and the abbeys and the monasteries were the driving force, just like in Vouvray and other places to kind of organize this entire thing
I mentioned those sections of the large wine region and how it has these three distinct sections
But in addition to the monks and the monasteries
there was also a trade element; that Port of Sète was a very important trade port for the Dutch Trading Company
And that’s why we see a lot of these in particular
We’re going to talk about it a little bit
it is all over the coastal area of this wine region
what are considered regional or complimentary denominations
this wine region has gone through a lot of changes
And right now this is some of the best moments in history for wine in general
is a great time to get into it because they’re starting to really solidify their identity
what we have is a large area called the Languedoc AOC
Then within that area are all these other little appellations and crus and stuff like that
But the way to understand and get into this is
I’m going to say a couple [of] things
and then we’re going to mention some AOCs
These are just going to be the ones that you’re going to see around
that I feel that you’re going… It’s going to help you start to enjoy and understand the Languedoc
I’m not going to be able to get to all of them
but I’m just going to try to highlight some stuff so you can wrap your head around it and actually start to enjoy it
and a variety you may have never heard of called Lledoner Pelut
And those varieties are often used to blend into the big three or the Holy Trinity
Every red wine region that I talk about is going to have those three varieties — the Holy Trinity — in different proportions with supporting red wine grapes
That’s the red wine situation in Languedoc
And what’s just so crazy about that list of varieties is it’s a mix of varieties from east and west of this wine region
and finding their spiritual homes in certain AOCs
The list of AOCs within this larger region are Pic Saint-Loup
except for Pic Saint-Loup are in a similar area towards the western side of this region
going into the hinterlands and into these hills that will eventually go into what are the Pyrenees
They’re not right next to each other
Some of them are just bordering each other
but what’s important to understand here is these wine regions will have the big three in different proportions and each one has their own laws or rules on how to do that
which actually has a really amazing sort of ancient Roman presence going on there… But Mourvèdre and Syrah must account for 20 percent of the blend
And these two plus Grenache must make up at least 60 percent of the blend
That’s what’s happening here in these red wine regions of Languedoc
It’s just different proportions of these big three with the other ones blended in
depending on what the winemaker wants to do
One grape that is just all over the place that cannot be denied is Carignan
and Carignan was an old variety around for a very long time in Languedoc
but it’s sometimes going to be a little bit sharp or a little bit harsh
and they were trying to phase Carignan out
Carignan was a big player and trying to fix the phylloxera thing in Montpelier
There’s a big university there that really helped out
other than a couple of these wine regions or AOCs
And one of my favorite wine regions in the world is Picpoul de Pinet. Picpoul blanc is a high- acid
that port town that I talked about where the Dutch Trading Company had a high presence
it’s all wine and Picpoul de Pinet is the… Picpoul
meaning the white grape of Picpoul of the town of Pinet
which is the town that surrounds Sète in that lagoon-ish harbor there
And the majority of the wines you’re going to get from Picpoul de Pinet are going to be really affordable
And how good is this wine?” kind of thing
It’s said that they have a certain kind of natural pairing with seafood because of the proximity of the Mediterranean
I’ve sipped Picpoul and slurped down sea urchins and all that
I don’t know if I was experiencing that thing they’re talking about
And the way it’s pronounced and the way it’s spelled is P-I-C-P-O-U-L
and the people of Picpoul de Pinet made sure that spelling was in law for that AOC
which has some E’s and some O’s in it
And those are some of the more important AOCs you want to see within the American market
But I’m going to wrap everything up with the Pays d’Oc appellation
it’s just an indication of geographic location
meaning it can be made anywhere within the Languedoc
which means the country wine of the Languedoc
Sixty percent of wine that is produced in this region are for non-appellation wines
it’s probably going to be between $9 and $15
And there is about a 98.999 percent chance it is going to be an awesome wine
And they’re subsidized now by the E.U.
so a lot of really great affordable wine comes out of here as well
I could talk about the Languedoc for a long, long time, but I am pushing the minutes here for this episode. So I’m going to leave it here, but if you guys have any questions about Languedoc, just hit me up on the DMs and Instagram, @VinePairKeith
And one day we’re going to go a little bit deeper into this stuff because there’s a lot more to talk about
@VinePairKeith is my Insta. Rate and review this podcast wherever you get your podcasts from. It really helps get the word out there.
Ed. note: This episode has been edited for length and clarity.
But the winegrowers of Faugères were not fazed
convinced they could produce very fine wines with unique characteristics.”Françoise Ollier brings her Daube de Sangliers to the vignerons’ table
It was fitting that the meat in the bubbling cauldon of stew that took two women to carry to the full table of vignerons was wild boar
as they are known in France (and probably called a good many other things) are a real pest and create considerable damage to the vineyards and livelihoods of the independent winemaker in this fascinating corner of the Haut-Languedoc
A small herd of sangliers can strip an entire hectare of vines overnight – they are not fussy – the grapes could be any one of the five red grape varieties or six white varieties permitted in AOP Faugères
So there was a sense of poetic justice as a long table of vignerons chomped their way through one of their bête noires
washing the rich meat down with lashings of wine made from the grapes this particular boar didn’t manage to consume
I am at the home of Luc and Françoise Ollier in the hilltop village of Fos
artisanal-style appellation that lies at the foot of the Espinouse in the eastern-central part of the Languedoc – the whole Faugères region only covers 5,000 hectares
1900 hectares of which are planted to vines
This range of hills is significant in that it shields the area from cold Northerly winds from the Massif Central which
South and South West-facing slopes towards the sea 30km away
creates a classic Mediterranean climate for viticulture
It is the ideal growing environment for the Rhône varietals Syrah
Grenache and (late-ripening) Mourvèdre that
The countryside that is not planted to vine is protected and unspoilt scrubland
rolling hills covered in garrigue and maquis
their potpourri of aromas filling the nostrils in summer to the tune of cicadas in the hot sun
“The winegrowers on the plains once thought that their counterparts in Faugères were mad to want to farm this relatively arid land
convinced they could produce very fine wines with unique characteristics… in short that Faugères offered an exceptional terroir,” explains Nathalie Caumette
chair of the local winegrowers association
What made the land so difficult to farm is ironically the ‘strongest suit’ of the vigneron’s hand – schist
leads to infertile soil and means that the vine’s roots need to travel deep to find nutrients and water to survive
the only appellation in the Languedoc to be defined by a single terroir
And although schist is plentiful throughout the Languedoc it is this exclusivity of total schist that makes the wines of Faugères distinctive
in a region renowned for its variety of wine styles
Faugères is the only Languedoc appellation to be 100% schist
author of Wines of the Languedoc and Wines of Faugères says that distinguishing the wines of Faugères with
neighbouring Saint Chinian is not always easy to determine to the untrained palate and can be influenced more by producer style
“I once did a comparative tasting of Faugères and St
Chinian for the Maison du Languedoc and cannot say that I came to any great conclusions
Maybe the wines of Faugères are a little fresher and a little more elegant than St
my host for the evening and Caumette’s predecessor at the head of AOP Faugères agrees that freshness is the key
“The freshness is more important in Faugères’s wines because there is more wind and a higher altitude over a large part of the appellation
the schist gives the wine very smooth tannins and a lot of minerality,” she says
A winegrower delivers a crop to local cooperative Mas Olivier
which accounts for 50% of the appellation’s output
While the reds of Faugères make up 79% of its output, the whites, rosés and recently-revived brandy are well-kept secrets – the feast at Domaine Ollier Taillefer being bookended by tastings of all three
Before we sit down for the daube de sangliers
15 vignerons show a variety of whites and rosés
alongside a range of locally-sourced produce that includes olives
magnificent smoked salmon and a duck saucisson that defied description
The room is charged with a camaraderie amongst the winemakers who become increasingly keen on showing particular cuvées – ones which had had some ageing in amphora and so on – with some of the white wines being truly extraordinary
It is not only that work in the vineyard and cellar has improved dramatically but also that the atmosphere has changed with a buoyancy and optimism apparent,” notes George
The archetypal vignerons dinner which followed had an abundance of red wines in all manner of styles but all having that freshness and elegance at their core
To give the evening some historical context
Luc and Françoise are fifth generation winemakers at Domaine Ollier Taillefer
which is and has been a key estate in the history of Faugères
80 years ago the domaine was instrumental in pushing for the formation of a regulatory body to help move the region on quality-wise
Their grandparents were one of three families in Faugères that came together in 1939 to try and set up some controls on a region that suffered
The war intervened but gradually over the years limits have been put on the yield and acreage until 1982 when AOP Faugères was formed for red wine (2005 for white) and quality control was enshrined in law
Although the current ceiling on yield is 45 hectolitres per hectare for red and white wine and 50 hl/ha for rosé
today’s average yield in Faugères is in reality closer to 30 hectolitres per hectare
To put that into an historical context and give an impression of the scale of the region’s overproduction in the past
in 1869 the average yield was 68 hectolitres per hectare which was being produced from a colossal 220,000 hectares
As you walk round Fos almost every household has signs of winemaking having been an integral part of life here – arched side entrances on the houses to take the barrels
Fine de Faugères with the village of Fos in the background
One of the reasons for winegrowing on such an enormous scale was that 60% of all grapes grown were being distilled into the Fine de Faugères brandy that put Faugères on the map long before its reputation for making fine table wines
This brandy was laid down in imperial cellars under Napoleon but went out of fashion and was eventually mothballed in the 1980s only being relaunched as recently as 2000 by a small group of enthusiastic winegrowers keen to connect with the past
Wines are distilled twice in a Charente/ pot still then matured between five to 10 years in oak barrels
All this was revealed at dinner when a selection of local brandies were served with dessert
which was a ‘rhum’ baba made with Fine de Faugères
The brandy was outstanding and had a real point of difference with a story to tell
combined with the Roussillon has three times the vine plantings of Bordeaux
But if there is one thing that is consistent across a region with so many differences is that it has the ability to constantly surprise you
Rosemary George refers to the region as being “a melting pot of dynamic attitudes
with an extraordinary enthusiasm and energy amongst the wine growers,” and that could not be more apt when describing the winemakers in Faugères who
despite being a relatively new appellation are way ahead than many other wine regions regarding its commitmnent to agri-environmental farming
Demonstrating grass cover techniques: Trainer Matthieu Archambeaud and Nadia Van Hanja from EPTB Orb Libron
Recognising the need to protect and optimise the natural potential of its vineyards Faugères started in 2017 a 10-year plan called Grands Vins de Nature (Fine Wines by Nature) which aims to reach a number of agri-environmental pledges most notably to completely eradicate the use of herbicides and insecticides across the entire appellation
the plan is on course and has hit its 5-year KPIs with 50% of vineyards involved in organic viticulture and 83% of wineries having at least one agri-environmental commitment
There are a number of measures in place involving permanent grass cover on the headlands
mixed farming and restoration of dry stone walls to help prevent soil erosion
it also has two collective washing stations for agricultural equipment to help preserve water quality
“It is an appellation dynamic,” says Nathalie Caumette who sees winegrowers here wanting to move the appellation forwards towards “an ideal of winegrowing in harmony with nature.”
the appellation has collectively decided to place ‘nature’ back at the very heart of the concept of terroir and to make it a watchword.”
“And Faugères is ahead of its time… in 2008 the appellation had its specifications amended to include agri-environmental measures: a ban on blanket spraying with chemicals, restrictions on mineral nitrogen inputs, mandatory grassing of headlands. It was laborious, INAO (Institut National de L’Origine et de la Qualité) was quite reluctant
but we succeeded: this huge step forward already predates 14 years.”
Part of the challenge is to convert the 70 winegrowers that supply the region’s one and only cooperative Mas Olivier Les Crus Faugères that accounts for 50% of the production of the entire AOP
The company’s own vineyards have been converted
with a line of Organic wines being produced
next up is the job of convincing the small freeholders to follow suit who are financially encouraged to do so
What is certain is that the vignerons of Faugères have already made great strides in terroir-driven winemaking that is respectful of the environment that sustains them
For wine buyers – trade and consumer – this is a region that is a treasure trove of quality wines that can be extremely good value
and speak of the place that they come from
The visit to AOP Faugères was part of Languedoc Wine Camp which you can read more about here.
Françoise Ollier has also just taken on the presidency of Vinifilles, a women-only wine association to support women winemakers managing vineyards on their own. Read more about them here.
and to allow yourself to be immersed in it,” writes Goode about Languedoc Wine Camp.The Languedoc is an intriguing region
and over the last couple of hundred years it has had to reinvent itself a number of times
In the past there was a need for lots of wine
In France consumption per capita was well over 100 litres a year
the Languedoc became a large factory for cheap wine to slake the thirst of France’s workers
The Languedoc also became home to some of the country’s largest cooperative wineries
and the idea behind them was to grant power to the small growers through a collective approach
the Languedoc’s special identity was somehow lost
the Languedoc is a string of appellations all of which have their own personality
and all of which represent talented terroirs for growing wine grapes
And this is the latest reinvention of the region
at the heart of the Languedoc Wine Camp idea: this region is a source of fine wines
Visiting vineyards in Faugères and Saint-Chinian was a key part of understanding what the Languedoc is really all about
It’s a three-day immersion experience for small groups of wine professionals
and this was the first edition of a series of six held in the second half of 2021
The idea was to combine time in the vineyard with some structured learning
including group activities: learning by doing and experiencing
The group I was with included a fellow Brit
but we worked together really well – everyone found their place
and then in the afternoon out in the vineyards
This included trips out to the vineyards of Saint-Chinian
Faugères (with the wonderful contrast of wines made on schist versus those on limestone) and Picpoul de Pinet
Heading out to vineyards emphasised the rugged beauty of the place
a biodiverse saltwater lagoon which supplies a major part of France’s oyster production
and we are tasked with describing them in words that express impressions
Then we were asked to make a simple judgement based on the sole criterion of pleasure: do I like this wine
Then there is a discussion based on these sensations and emotions
This first edition was based in the remarkable winery of Château Castigno
We stayed in the nearby village of Assignan which has been bought in its entirety and renovated by the owner of Castigno
and emblematic of the sorts of changes that are taking place in the Languedoc
slightly run-down village has been transformed into a beautifully renovated luxury destination: Castigno Village
Assignan – where we stayed – had fallen on hard times after the distillery was closed but is now totally renovated
Château Castigno has 32 hectares of spectacularly situated vineyards
and a rather astonishing winery in the shape of a wine bottle
and witnessed the grapes being brought into the winery by Princess
and the cellar is full of concrete and large format oak
Expect interesting wines to emerge in the next few years
building on the already solid foundation there
There was a shift in focus to the hillside sites
and a modernisation of production facilities
and Pic St Loup in 2017 is the most recent
The transition from volume to quality has progressed slowly but steadily
The dynamic of the region now is one of new winegrowers (Terrasses du Larzac has seen 30 new winegrowers established since it got the AOP in 2014)
modernised cooperatives (there are still around 200
responsible for 70% of production) and larger family-owned estates
humid wind can drive people crazy: it can blow for nine days
The other two winds are the Pontant and Levant
Garrigue is a term used a lot by wine writers but it was invaluable to get up-close-and-personal with it
A distinctive feature of this region is the native vegetation
The limestone-based soils here have garrigue
the famous aromatic vegetation including thyme
and on a warm day it’s easy to see why so many tasting notes of reds from the region have the term ‘garrigue’ in them
although in many places there isn’t much soil: it seems as if the vineyards have been planted in pure rock
Anyone with an interest in vineyard soils would have a field day here
While many have planted famous international varieties in the region
the AOP Languedoc wines are made from traditional varieties well suited to the climate and soils here
and to allow yourself to be immersed in it
Some top wines tasted at Languedoc Wine Camp
Château Reine Juliette 2020 AOP Picpoul de Pinet
Lively and intense with grapefruit and lemons
This has really nice presence with a mineral edge to the fruit
Domaine Maxime Magnon La Begou 2019 AOP Corbières
This is intensely aromatic with lemons and spice
It’s keen and mineral on the palate with some lively acidity
This has a lovely acid line and is really juicy
Domaine Ollier-Taillefer Allegro Blanc 2020 AOP Faugères
A 50/50 blend of Rolle (Vermentino) and Roussanne from schist soils
pressed and then fermented and aged in stainless steel
Bréchallune La Croix Gratiot 2020 AOP Picpoul de Pinet
bright and taut with focused citrus and pear fruit
Very expressive and fruit driven with good acidity and some crystalline character
Château Castigno Blanc 2019 AOP Saint-Chinian
fermented in 500 litre barrel (the Rousanne portion) and terracotta amphorae
Château Rouquette Sur Mer Cuvée Amarante 2018 AOP La Clape
Expressive with lovely structure and also some finesse
Domaine Les Aurelles Aurel Rouge 2014 AOP Languedoc Pézenas
Elegant and refined with red cherries and plums
This is well defined and beautifully structured with real poise and finesse
Borie La Vitarèle Les Terres Blanches 2019 AOP Saint Chinian
juicy cherry fruit with a nice warm spiciness
showing supple red fruits and great concentration
Domaine de Cabrol La Dérive 2017 AOP Cabardès
ripe and a bit meaty with nice black cherry and raspberry fruit
Powerful and saline: has lovely intensity and freshness but also ripeness
Château de Ciffre Grand Vin 2019 AOP Faugères
lively and detailed with lovely cherry fruit and some raspberry
Dark and gravelly with mid-palate richness
Château de l’Engarran 2017 AOP Languedoc Grès de Montpellier
Nice bright cherry and plum fruit with nice silkiness
a touch of cherry and also some orange peel
this is nicely structured and has real appeal
Fresh style with appealing olive and meat notes providing a savoury dimension
elegant and structural with nicely balanced red fruits
Château La Négly La Falaise 2018 AOP La Clape
La Clape is a coastal appellation and La Négly are making some lovely wines here
Lovely texture here: sweet cherries and plums to the fore
If you are a wine buyer, importer, sommelier or member of the media and want to attend one of next year’s Languedoc Wine Camps then please contact Estelle Nijhof on enijhof@languedoc-wines.com
I would accompany my father in the vineyards and cellars of the château where he was estate manager
I was fascinated by the winemaking process and used to be told off for dipping my hand in the fermenting vats
I joined the Val d’Orbieu co-operative group and eventually became export director
I left after 10 years to become director of the AOC Corbières syndicate
where I worked on wine tourism initiatives
Why did you decide to set up your own business
By then I had over 20 years’ professional experience and I felt I had made as much difference as I could working for others
It was high time for me to start my own business
focus on the family estates and put my values in practice: building a better and cleaner future for the next generations
Claude Vialade is going the extra mile to promote organics
Is it hard to stand out against so much competition there
My family and my roots are there and there is no way I could live or work anywhere else
is the largest French region for organic wines with over 10% of the total vineyards surface
Organic winegrowing is the way forward and is at the centre of what we do and believe in
What is your biggest achievements in wine to date
I am delighted by the success of our organic conversion initiative
which will double the volume of organic wines Domaines Auriol will bring to market in three years’ time.’
Starting my career in the co-operative world was tough
the main challenge has been to implement change
be it within the company or in the vineyards
for example convincing winegrowers to plant the right varietals
to improve their winemaking techniques or to adapt to the market
Can you talk through the idea to convert the estate to organic farming
Why have you decided to do that and how hard has it been
was famed in his day for his political activism and passionate commitment to the green cause
He created the first organic village at Ribeaute in 1973
Our family estates couldn’t be anything but organic
These are our family values and they’re not negotiable
What have been the key stages in the process
Our own organic conversion process is long in the past
but I was aware of the complexity and cost of the process for new converts
This is why I launched a new initiative in autumn 2018
Estate owners interested in converting to organic standards stand to receive a substantial financial support from Domaines Auriol towards the administrative
and oenological costs of the first two years of conversion
Domaines Auriol also takes over sales of the estate’s wines from the first year of conversion and commits to paying 90% of the price that the wine would fetch when certified organic
You clearly see a big future for organic wines in France and in your region…why do you think that is
Organic wines are a runaway success both on the French and the export market with demand increasing by 20% in France and over 10% internationally over the last five years
plummeting yields due to climate change – the average yield for Chardonnay in the region has decreased from 64hl/ha to 55hl/ha – and a reluctance from winegrowers to embark on the costly three year conversion to organic standards mean a growing gap between offer and demand
My ambition is to plug this gap with our organic conversion initiative
How do you think it is best to communicate that to the trade and to consumers
We try to engage personally with the trade and consumers whenever possible
We have developed a new neck collar for wines in our organic conversion programme so that consumers are aware they are supporting a new initiative
Time is an issue however and I am aware we could and should do a lot more
Claude Vialade is following in her family’s footsteps in the Languedoc
What are the main wines in your range – what sort of price point do they have
Our range includes wines from our own properties
Montmija and last but not least Ciceron where we are experimenting with new varieties
We also distribute wines from partner winegrowers and vinify wines to our clients’ specifications
We therefore cover a wide range of price points
Which target market are you looking to sell them to
Ultimately we are targeting consumers who share our philosophy and who are interested in exclusive
Sommeliers are great ambassadors for wines like ours
What are your main export markets and why…is that changing
Possibly because of my previous professional experiences but also because they offered more development opportunities and were more receptive to innovation than the French market
The Japanese and Scandinavian markets have been key drivers for the business as they understand and espouse our organic and innovative philosophy
How do you hope to build distribution there
The UK is a crucial market for Domaines Auriol
We have an established market there but are convinced there is still untapped potential
We recruited Marie Annick Consola (formerly of Foncalieu) in January 2019 to boost our business in the UK
Home » French Frigate Languedoc Intercepts Yet Another Drone from Yemen
This is the third drone from Yemen that the French frigate intercepts since Sunday
the oil tanker Strinda (Norwegian flag) was the victim of a complex air attack from Yemen causing a fire on board
The FREMM Languedoc which was patrolling the area intercepted and destroyed a drone directly threatening the Strinda
The FREMM then placed itself in protection of the affected vessel
The fire on board the Strinda was brought under control
The USS Mason then escorted the Strinda to the Gulf of Aden out of the threat zone
FREMM Languedoc has resumed its patrol towards the North
FREMM Languedoc has been involved in the Gulf of Aden and the southern Red Sea since December 8 in order to contribute to maritime security and the freedom of navigation of ships (around 20,000 commercial ships pass through this area each year )
For the record, on December 9, the Languedoc Multi-Mission Frigate (FREMM) of the French Navy shot down two drones that were heading straight towards it, coming from the coast of Yemen.
French Minister of the Armed Forces, Sebastien Lecornu, yesterday confirmed that Languedoc used Aster 15 surface to air missiles to shoot down two drones off Yemen
This interception by Languedoc is the latest in several incidents in the area. USNI News reported last week that guided-missile destroyer USS Mason (DDG-87) shot down a drone in the Red Sea on Wednesday
just days after USS Carney (DDG-64) downed three drones launched from Yemen
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The wines of Languedoc are experiencing an exciting renaissance
Having reinvented itself in recent decades by shifting its production focus to wines of truly high quality
the region has become one of the most dynamic in the country
Leading winemakers combined time-honored traditions with state-of-the art techniques to revitalize the region’s appellations
and their innovative vineyard and vinification practices have yielded a diverse range of terroir-driven wines
including the greatest percentage of organic wines in France
Their efforts have led the Languedoc AOC to become one of the fastest-growing categories from France
and sweet AOC wines are being sought out as new “discoveries” by consumers around the world who are seeking exceptional quality and value
(AOCs may be classified as AOPs in the EU system.)
as well as the biggest producer of IGP and AOC rosé wines in the country
The region has also become a welcoming area for foreigners
attracting producers not only from other regions of France but from the world over
Languedoc is now flying high on the reputation of its rich history
the Languedoc is part of the large Mediterranean coastal area now known as the Occitanie region
reaching from the Spanish border on the southeast to the region of Provence in the east
The Languedoc makes up approximately 90 percent of the territory; Roussillon occupies the other 10 percent
Together they represent France’s largest wine-producing region and vineyard area—more than one in three French wines is produced here
The greater Languedoc-Roussillon region is also the largest vineyard area in the world with a geographic identity
Viticulture is one of the main drivers of the local economy
and many of the wineries are small family holdings that date back generations
The Languedoc is known for being quite distinct from Roussillon as far as culture
Languedoc AOCs represent about 16 percent of Occitanie wines
The region is home to multiple climate and soil types
The majority of Languedoc’s wines are red blends
but rosé and still white wines are produced here
as are sparkling wines made in the traditional method
a technique made famous because of its association with Champagne but one that’s believed to have been discovered in Languedoc’s Limoux area
Documents dating to 1544 support this claim
There are also four Languedoc sweet wine appellations
which produce vins doux naturels from the Muscat variety
The main area of the Languedoc wine region stretches across three départements—from the Aude to the Gard by way of the Hérault—and then extending to the Pyrénées-Orientales where it meets Roussillon
The region’s proximity to the Mediterranean Sea helps provide greater consistency across vintages than in other areas of France
which help prevent pests and disease by giving natural protection to the vineyards
contribute to the region’s ability to sustain a high level of organic production—36 percent of all organic French wine comes from the Languedoc – making it the country’s leader in this category
and in some areas the amount of rain is the lowest in France
But the Languedoc has reserves of water in most of its calcareous soils
with clay and limestone being the most dominant
Languedoc’s vineyard history dates to the 5th century BC when the Greeks introduced vines to the area
as occurred in many other French vineyard regions
Viticulture has continued to play a crucial role in the regional economy since that time
a unique method called passerillage was used to produce wines; harvested grapes were dried in the sun for over-ripening
which connected the Mediterranean to the Atlantic
the railway system made it easier to ship wine to Northern France
which led to a period of great prosperity for the Languedoc wine community
Phylloxera began attacking Languedoc vineyards in 1868
vines were grafted onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstock
and major replanting was undertaken—with a focus on quantity and high yields
the Languedoc produced the largest volume of table wine in France
yielding up to 120 hectoliters per hectare
the annual production was 21 million hectoliters
This overproduction resulted in plummeting prices
a situation that was compounded by wine frauds involving the illegal manufacture of wine produced from sugar beets
as well as inappropriate chaptalization practices
a new effort to revive Languedoc wine was begun
Blanquette de Limoux was granted appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) status and thus became the first AOC established in the Languedoc region—and one of the earliest AOCs in France
In 1945 the Languedoc received major recognition from the National Institute of the Appellations of Origin (INAO) when the organization allowed the region’s wines to be designated Wine of Superior Quality (VDQS) and approved the appearance of that designation on labels
This designation would later evolve into the AOC system
Languedoc producers gradually began shifting their focus toward standards that would raise the region’s level of quality
and winemaking methods led to a restructuring of the Languedoc region and
the classification of its terroirs into various AOCs
which now guarantee the quality and authenticity of Languedoc wines
Although the major share of Langeudoc’s production is still made up of IGP wines
representing about 16 percent of its total production
The base of the Languedoc appellation structure lies with the regional Languedoc appellation AOC Languedoc
This regional appellation evolved from the extension of the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation
It covers recognizable and accessible geographic origin red
with blending across the terroirs of the AOC Languedoc and Roussillon
Production covers the whole of the Languedoc-Roussillon
These wines are known as enjoyable everyday drinking wines that deliver a strong quality-to-price ratio
there are also 14 designations or vineyard sites who have filed an application with the INAO for specific recognition:
the region also includes 19 IGP Sud de France denominations
named not only for their viticultural aspects but also factors such as history and geography
Languedoc’s AOC wines are predominantly red blends made with Grenache
Their flavor profile is dominated by red fruit and spices and is often associated with an herb blend called garrigue
Red wines make up 60 percent of the Languedoc’s total production
Approximately 93 percent of the wines produced in the region are still wines
and 2 percent are sweet Muscat-based vins doux naturels
This variety has been cultivated in France since the Middle Ages
Grenache provides structure to Languedoc blends
It also has an aromatic flavor profile and an exceptional ability to age (provided yields have been controlled)
Grenache is often combined with more tannic grapes
elegant wines with notes of cherry and plum in youth
Wines made with Syrah tend to be robust and high in alcohol and tannins
which makes them good candidates for aging
fruity wines with red fruit and strong floral notes
Grown throughout the southern Mediterranean, Carignan is a low-yield variety that produces powerful
intensely colored wines with strong tannins
It helps build the foundation in Languedoc blends
Carignan offers red and black fruit notes as well as typical regional notes of garrigue
balsamic notes may develop as Carignan ages
This variety’s history in France dates to the Middle Ages
tannic wines that are deep in color and firm in structure
It contributes complexity to Languedoc blends
and its flavor profile features blackberries
as well as baking spices and herbal garrigue notes
Known for its supple, juicy, and fruity wines, Cinsault yields wines that tend to be light ruby in color with notes of sour red berries
This grape is also used in the production of the Languedoc’s excellent rosé wines
Occitanie is still the largest wine region in France, representing 30 percent of all French wine produced, and the largest vineyard area in the world with a geographic identity. With its shift to the modern, Languedoc in many ways has become a new frontier for French wine. Not only does it offer a diverse range of wine styles but it delivers exceptional quality at approachable prices.
Consumers are seeking out Languedoc wines as new “discoveries.” These are innovative wines that combine the best of traditional practices with new winemaking ideas and technology. The region is also evolving because of the numerous young people and foreigners who are buying up local land and joining the Languedoc winemaking community.
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might have been considered a foolhardy decision
But it is one that has paid off in spades since he and his wife Karine
snapped up an 11-hectare vineyard between Jonquières and Aniane at the heart of the Southern French wine revolution that started back in the 1970s
The young Dougan originally harboured ambitions to become a Shakespearean actor
but this dream was thwarted after being thrown out of Sydney’s National Institute of Dramatic Art
Dougan found himself scrubbing dishes in London throughout the early 1990s while struggling to make it in the cut-throat music business
songwriting success did not elude him for long; his most famous single
Robert Dougan is a firm believer in "whatever you are going to do
“I really don’t know what possessed me to think we could do something,” he muses about his decision to buy the vineyard
“Maybe it was because it was my wife’s region
the dark rain clouds and the spring flowers emerging
predicting that it was nigh-on impossible for someone with no experience of the sector to make a go of it
“There were probably some people questioning my sanity
high-quality wine is not only worthwhile in itself
[but] it is a very good idea to adopt your model
as it’s slightly less competitive and even if it goes badly
you’ve gone down the path of least resistance," he says
“We started off with the belief that excellent vineyard work was the key
Dougan made an offer for the plot of land on the spot
I noticed various old and often converted wine buildings
And I gradually learned that this was France's oldest viticultural region from Hugh Johnson’s book on the wine history and discovered that southern France was experiencing a huge kind of wine renaissance.”
While he admits to having the “general approach of an 11-year-old boy to most things”
he believes the most important element of winemaking lies in the vineyard itself
“I think that with the history of the wonderfully old vineyards planted years ago
Inspired by what he had read and seen of the region
he set about working on the estate but admits they were ill-prepared for the reality of the first grape harvest
“We started off in such an un-businesslike manner; we really weren’t part of the established wine business
we were so focussed on the vineyard work that even six to eight weeks before harvest
they found a small stone building between Daumas Gassac and Grange des Pères to work in
Some tanks and equipment arrived several weeks before harvest and fortunately
“I’m not sure many would have had great confidence in us at that point
But it all rests on discovering a great vineyard completely by accident
The La Pèira cuvée is grown in a certain vineyard
we have vineyards that don’t produce quite the same quality of wine
Dougan is surely being somewhat disingenuous in dismissing the part that sheer hard work has played in La Pèira becoming the success it is today
He says he is a big fan of just getting on with things
“It’s often best just to crack on; there is a real magic in just starting something
It’s like having a child — there is never really a right time.”
Back in the early days, Dougan presented the first few vintages at an off-piste tasting in Saint-Émilion as part of the En Primeur tastings at the wine merchant Comptoir des Vignoble
who had studied oenology at the University of Bordeaux under Émile Peynaud
“He was incredibly enthusiastic and said he was going to present them to Robert Parker to taste the next day
and he said they were the greatest wines from the region he’d ever tasted.”
Meanwhile, Dougan posted wine critic Andrew Jefford, some of the early vintages, and he sang their praises, writing in The World of Fine Wine that the vintages had “rearranged my inner pantheon in the way that truly great wine can"
“So that was a good start,” says Dougan in a typically understated fashion
both were a lifeline and meant we could continue on.”
La Pèira's big break came thanks to how well its wines were reviewed by Robert Parker in the US and Andrew Jefford in the UK
going from strength to strength with each vintage
Dougan believes that part of the estate’s success lies in the fact that his entire winemaking philosophy is diametrically opposed to most of his peers
“which is to make it about themselves,” he says
“To make it about their tastes and their likes and dislikes
We set out [to] try and capture what is there as purely as possible
We’re the person who sets up the microphones and records the music
The recordist doesn’t stop recording to ask Caruso to sing like Maria Callas
They don’t stop recording and tell everyone to stop playing Verdi because they prefer Bach
“I think many entrants to wine wish to impose their own tastes and ideas on a site
I have quite catholic tastes and enjoy the differences in every region
So it’s the other way around: let the site express itself.”
they have always stuck to a simple mantra: “Excellent vineyard work
We didn’t want to make compensations with the wines or the vineyards
And just be content that that might not be very good,” adding that having excellent grapes is half the battle
“You put your line in the ocean and you see what comes up
You do the best you can with the preparation and the work
We didn’t ask for a guarantee or complete control over what might result
and the wines might have been ungainly or of no great interest
We weren’t trying to censor unique things about the site in what we did
that phrase ‘censoring the site’ captures for me what is the biggest mistake.”
of which around four hectares are planted with white varieties
while additional Syrah has also been added
Dougan says they did make mistakes in the beginning
“We pruned the vines so there was open canopies with exposure to sunlight and air
and that probably works wonderfully well in a cooler climate with more rainfall
it may not have been the best idea — the grapes appreciate a canopy to protect them from the sun
the inaugural vintage [in 2005] was fortunately wonderful
but at the same time with a lift and energy to it.”
Robert Dougan has been able to introduce a number of new varieties to the vineyards including Clairette
But mistakes can be regarded as learning opportunities
and Dougan says they have made big changes in the vineyards since the early days
with an increased focus on white wine production
the domaine was planted exclusively with red grapes until Dougan stumbled across two rows of Viognier and Roussanne in a vineyard that was originally thought to be Syrah
Dougan decided to make two barrels of a second white wine
which was very well received by critic Jancis Robinson MW who compared it to a Northern Rhône white
Another serendipitous discovery led to the planting of the Clairette grape when it was found that France’s earliest known winery had been discovered near La Pèira
archaeological seeds from the site revealed them to be Clairette
“So we had to plant Clairette,” says Dougan
Annual yields at La Pèira are small — Dougan likens them to “Yquem-like levels”
with the first vintage producing around nine hl per ha
with today's typical yields being closer to 15 – 20 hl per ha
This equates to around 500 cases of the grand vin La Pèira and 700 cases of the second vin each year
as well as 1800 cases of Obriers de la Pèira
300 cases of Deusyls Blanc and 110 of Matissa
that [such small yields] was seen as suicidal
So the amounts of wine we make are incredibly small
that can only work if the site is excellent
when around half of the total crop was earmarked for the American market
Europe and Asia became more important overseas destinations
though Dougan says that they often hold off working with a country until they have a certain importer lined up to team up with
“One company in Switzerland we only worked with a decade after first approaching and held off until then.”
Robert Dougan was so keen to work with Corney & Barrow in the UK that he turned down other opportunities to wait for the right time to join one of the UK's most respected wine importers
as one of the oldest and most important wine markets
but Dougan says he was so keen to collaborate with Corney & Barrow that they held off for several years before selling into the UK — prepared to wait until a deal could be concluded with the prestigious wine distributor and importer
“I think we first approached Corney & Barrow a full 12 years ago just after we started,” he says
which he admits was probably a “bit premature”
“They have an incredible portfolio of exclusive wines from Petrus to Romanée Conti and the heritage of being one of Britain’s oldest wine merchants
but what really stood out with the release of the wines is the care and attention to every detail.”
La Pèira has just converted to organic production
“We have so little of the 2021 vintage we plan to bottle by hand in the old pre-industrial way with La Chèvre à Deux Becs,” he says
“I wouldn’t want to chalk it up to sustainability
but with the smaller vineyard such as the Bois de Pauliau
we’ve tried this year to start an experiment by working those two hectares in exactly the way it would have been in the pre-industrial era.”
Dougan believes it’s important to take a balanced approach to organic farming
pointing out that many producers still work with la lutte raisonnée (literally
the reasoned struggle or supervised control) and are not organic
“If that means they only use treatments that are not organic to keep a vineyard alive
then I don’t think they should be derided,” he says
“The reason we went organic was it left no grey area and made our working processes clear for us and everyone.”
Dougan reports that winter pruning has just finished at La Pèira
and the vineyards have benefited from some good rain recently
Dougan believes the outlook for wine from the Languedoc — or the Occitan as he prefers to call it — are rosy
thanks in part to changing perceptions of the region
“I think that that south of France is almost like London and Paris’ California
which is a similar distance from San Francisco to the winelands in California
But the UK is slowly waking up to the fact that the world’s biggest wine region is on our doorstep
You can go from the shores of the Med to high-altitude vineyards
so there are all sorts of discoveries to be made.”
Robert Dougan in his other mode - as a successful song writer
with Dougan continuing to write and produce
He has just released a cover of the song Beautiful Things
as well as working on an album release of Furious Angels (Revisited) recorded at Abbey Road Studio and featuring over 100 string
He draws close parallels between music and wine
not only in the funding of his own recordings (“which with orchestras is ruinous
and a very good taste of what a wine estate was going to be like”)
but also the similarities between the vineyard
terroir and vintage being the authors of the piece
and the vineyard work and harvest that of the accompanist
“The wine estate’s true task is to be like a sound recordist and to record all with high-fidelity,” he says
conceding in self-deprecating fashion that his metaphor may be “slightly mixed”
* You can read more about La Pèira here. * Its wines are distributed in the UK through Corney & Barrow - a commercial partner of The Buyer
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French organic wine production might have originated in Languedoc
but it represents just one of the region’s many environmental innovations
One of France’s most recognized wine regions
Languedoc is known for producing wines of the highest quality
with bottlings that are both versatile and offer great value
is Languedoc’s long-standing commitment to organic farming
which is tied to the region’s rich viticultural past and shapes its sustainable vision for the future
Lined by the Mediterranean Sea, Languedoc spans the Spanish border to Provence
It’s located in the coastal Occitanie region
which is home to the highest percentage of organic (bio in French) vineyards in France
Around one-third of the country’s organic plantings are here—that’s around 10 percent of organic plantings worldwide
Thousands more hectares are currently in conversion to organic farming practices
and other vineyards are certified biodynamic or High Environmental Value (HVE
an important sustainability certification in France)
2,000 hectares were certified HVE in just under five years
almost 80 percent of appellation plantings are certified organic
environmental specifications are written into production guidelines
This represents just one element of many in the region’s dynamic sustainability movement
renewed commitment to the environment and the industry’s responsibility to protect it
While farming and winemaking certifications are useful to communicate a producer’s values to the consumer
these certifications are only part of the story in the vibrant landscape of Languedoc
David Latham is the proprietor of Château Saint-Estève
where he and his family produce Corbières Boutenac and AOP Corbières wines
The winery is certified HVE and is in the process of converting to organic farming
as Latham says of the importance of committing to the environment
its “winemakers are always defending the quality of their product,” said educator Claire Henry on a recent press trip to the area
“They don’t want to be considered as quantity winemakers.” This is reflected in thoughtful hillside plantings and the replantation of vineyards with the future—not necessarily higher yields—in mind
At Château Ciceron in Corbières
proprietor Claude Vialade’s 10-hectare vineyard has been planted with what they call “22nd-century winegrowing techniques” to address global warming and water diminishment
This focuses on the production and quality vinification of varieties that can be grown with low moisture inputs
The goal of the region is not simply to produce more wine
but to produce delicious wine that reflects the priorities of the culture while protecting the environment and the community
“Languedoc is without question a hidden gem of the wine world. The ethos of Languedoc, which is centered around innovation and environmental consideration, makes their wines as enjoyable mentally as they are physically,” said Advanced Sommelier and SOMLYAY founder Erik Segelbaum
work is being done to safeguard and prioritize nature
planting hedges to protect animal species and experimenting with rainwater collection
An écopont near Narbonne allows wildlife to pass over the roadway safely
permitting secure movement of fauna throughout the winegrowing area
To paint a complete picture of the ecological and environmental priorities that built and sustain Languedoc viticulture and its winemaking families
one only needs to look at the region’s past
Languedoc has a long history of innovation
Since it was first settled by the Greeks in the 5th century BC
Languedoc has been responsible for many of the global wine industry’s most progressive milestones
It’s in Languedoc that physician Arnaud de Villeneuve discovered wine fortification in the late 1200s
and where Benedictine Monks of the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire in Limoux created the world’s first sparkling wine in the mid-1500s
Languedoc is also where the world’s largest all-organic wine fair
setting the region on the path to its current status as the largest producer of French organic wines
Exploring solutions to vineyard preservation in the face of environmental change
Botanist Jules Émile Planchon was the first to graft European vines onto American rootstock during the phylloxera blight in the late 1800s
still in development today as tools to mitigate climate change
were first researched here by Alain Bouquet forty years ago—before global warming was even on the public radar
France officially recognized these grapes for winemaking in 2021
and they are now considered up-and-coming varieties
Cabernet Kortis and Muscaris show particular promise for Languedoc cultivation
The Institut Agro Montpellier first envisioned “the vineyard of the future” in 1998 and has since built a resource for education and the research of forward-thinking soil health
diversification of plant material and proactive vineyard management techniques
its campus is home to a collection of 275 grapevine varieties
placing Languedoc at the center of strengthening tomorrow’s vineyards
Languedoc has welcomed enterprising and young winemakers from different parts of the world to be part of its thriving landscape of diverse growing sites and hospitality offerings
dynamic co-ops and family estates all make up the open-minded collection of people now cultivating wine in Languedoc
this means many exciting options to explore
Languedoc wines are high in quality and value
which makes them perfect for by-the-glass offerings and restaurant wine lists
There is not one single style of organic Languedoc wine
but many options for every meal or occasion
bubbly traditional method wines from Limoux are crafted in both light and structured releases
and are considered some of the best value in French sparkling wine
Herbal and concentrated Corbières reds are crafted with restrained alcohol and light or no use of oak
Textured and fresh white blends and rosé in every shade explore the diversity of the vineyard with a focus on food-friendliness
“Languedoc wines can compete with virtually all categories from sparkling to sweet — and everything in between — at a fraction of the price of their competitors,” Segelbaum explained
“Languedoc whites show intensity and balance; its reds show freshness and terroir; and
the value proposition across all categories is absolutely unmatched anywhere else in the world.”
ensuring that reinvention in the name of taste
quality and innovation will always deliver something new in the glass and on the table
Wine buyers will continue to discover abundant options from growers and winemakers who consider organic farming to be just one piece of their commitment to the environment—and
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PDO Santorini’s distinctive volcanic terroir
the exceptional qualities of its Assyrtiko grapes
and the unique vine-growing methods employed by its winemakers all contribute to the unparalleled character of its wines
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Kristian von Krusenstierna's last internationally competed Grand Prix horse and Lina Dolk's young riders' and U25 schoolmaster
Languedoc was a Westfalian gelding by Laomedon out of Finett (by Francisco x Disco Star)
Languedoc's sport career started rather late in life
competing for the first time under Wieger Derk de Boer in Germany in 2011 at age 8
De Boer showed the horse in a few classes through 2012 after which he sold to Sweden
Jan Pallinder and Anna Endling acquired Languedoc and put him in training with Kristian von Krusenstierna as his Rio Olympic hopeful
He was meant to follow in Biggles' footsteps
Kristian and LanguedocThe pair made its international show debut at small tour level at the 2014 CDI Neumunster, where they were second and third. In 2015 they moved to medium tour level and campaigned in Hamburg, five months later they moved up to international Grand Prix level at the CDI Oslo
2016 was the pair's highlight year with starts in Caselle di Sommacampagna, Wiesbaden, the Nordic Baltic in Ypaja, and Aachen. They were 10th at the 2016 Swedish Grand Prix Championship, but dropped out of the Swedish Olympic team race due to an injury
Lina Dolk on Languedoc at the 2018 European Young Riders ChampionshipsIn 2018 the ride on the dark bay gelding was allocated to Von Krusenstierna's student Lina Dolk
who had previously taken over the ride on Biggles
Languedoc became her young riders horse and took her to the 2018 European Young Riders Championships in Fontainebleau (FRA), where they won team bronze and were 47th in the individual test (64.824%). They were fourth at the 2018 Swedish Young Riders Championship
Their last CDI at young riders level was in Flyinge in September 2018 after which the horse did not compete internationally for three years. In 2020 they pair collected silver at 2020 Swedish Under 25 Championships
The Euros in Hagen was the horse's last international show, but nationally he carried on in 2022 and finished with silver at the 2022 Swedish Under 25 Championships
Dolk pats Languedoc at the 2021 European Under 25 ChampionshipsLanguedoc was retired from competition sport at age 19 at the end of 2022
He spent his retirement at his owners place but on 15 July had to be put to sleep suddenly after a freak accident
"A few seconds on a movie on Dokki 10 years ago started my curiosity," Von Krustenstierna stated
"This developed into a wonderful trip from St George to international Grand Prix for the two of us with his owner
The journey continued in the same wonderful direction when Dokki got to give Lina Dolk some unforgettable years
What a team we have been with the important one in the team
"thank you for all the memories my dear friend
how painful it hurts not to be able to kiss your nose and see those kind eyes one last time."
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Rémi Blot
ShareSaveCommentLifestyleSpiritsLanguedoc: An Ideal Wine Region For Vines To Grow OldByMichelle Williams
Freelance Wine writer & co-host of Just Getting Better podcastFollow AuthorJan 19
08:00am ESTShareSaveCommentDomaine de Cébène in AOP Faugères
After years of working in wine sales and marketing
Why would a lifelong Bordelaises leave such a celebrated region for the lesser-known wilds of southwest France
one is key: Her passion for historically old vines
Nobody would have liked to work with these old vineyards
is an ideal place for grape vines to grow old
An example of schist soil found in Languedoc - ideal for growing old vines
Chevalier found what she was looking for in AOP Faugères
a small region defined by a single soil type—schist
Schist is a metamorphic rock formed under heat and pressure
it is valued for its heat retention and drainage abilities
schist is prized for its ability to retain moisture
schist allows old vine roots to penetrate as deep as 26 feet
offering the vine more resistance to extreme weather
and disease due its relationship with a vast underground microbial network
AOC Faugères characteristics—one-thousand feet above sea level
the Tramontane winds blow pure air from a natural park
with the hills blocking the stronger winds from the Massif Central
“My task is to save the spirit of this place
I hope [through my wine] I can translate this forward,” she says
Her self-described “rural values” steer her toward traditional winemaking – hand working and harvesting the vines
elevating her “artisan style” in crafting delicate wines of distinction
She champions recovering old vines and is a founding sponsor of the Old Vines Conference
Biodynamic experiments are underway in hopes of “giving the vines livelier soil.”
explaining “no place else in the world grows Mourvèdre on schist,” which softens the grapes tannins
Chevalier’s passion for old vines is contagious
Domaine de Cébène offers an old vine sponsorship program
It’s a great way for wine lovers to support sustainable farming and artisanal winemaking
while aiding in the expense of maintaining old vine treasures
Autumn in the Castelmaure old vine vineyards in AOP Corbières
a large and diverse region spanning from the Pyrenees Mountains to the coastal plains near Narbonne
it is home to a wide variety of soil types
a wine co-operative more than one hundred years old
the co-op employees fifty-four growers covering four-hundred hectares surrounding the village of Corbières
All vineyards are sustainably certified through the French High Environmental Value program
the co-operative has old vines Grenache and Carignan growing in schist soil
the co-op has a two blocks vine conservatory – one is studying the DNA of historical old vines
the other is researching ninety different profiles of Carignan using new vines with old wood
Gérard Bertrand is synonymous with biodynamic sustainability
he feels strongly about taking care of the land and the vines
Within Bertrand’s large portfolio are many wines made from vines over thirty years old
but there are two very special old vine wines that are dear to Bertrand’s heart
La Forge is an iconic wine of Domaine de Villemajou
representing the quintessential AOP Corbières-Boutenac terroir
make it one of the distinctive cru regions of Languedoc
La Forge blends young Syrah with old vine Carignan planted in 1930 by Bertrand’s father
blends younger Grenache with ancient Carignan planted in 1920
She raised seven children and kept the vineyard going after her husband died in World War I
Bertrand says it takes a clever person to plant vines that live a long time
The planter must understand the varietal’s relationship with the soil and climate of the place
Carignan demonstrates throughout Languedoc that it is an ideal grape for the terroir
He shares with Wine Spectator the difference in taste of very old vine wines compared to younger vines is in the texture and expression of the terroir due to deep roots
the winery begins a ten-year focused study on old vines seeking to understand how they adapt to live so long in hopes the vines will provide a prophetic voice for the future
Domaine Jones old vine vineyards in AOP Fitou
Situated between the Mediterranean Sea and AOP Corbières
AOP Fitou is the oldest region of Languedoc
Divided into two finger-like zones protruding north
hilly zone of Fitou Montagneux is known for its schist soil and high-quality
Katie Jones left her home in England for the remote mountains of Languedoc to work for a wine co-operative
she bought her first old vine vineyard and began making wine
She likes to say she buys the vineyards no-one else wants
Jones embraces traditional wine making methods
her old vine vineyards range from 50 to 116 years old
allow her to produce an array of single varietal and blended small-lot
high-quality wines with a distinct sense of place
Domaine Jones’ Vineyard Collection wines offer rare old vine wines
and what she believes is the last remaining old vine Macabeu
“Old Vines represent such a large part of our history
they tell a thousand stories of the people who have worked with them over the years and the people who have enjoyed wines from their fruit
but it is worth it for the quality and style of wine that they produce.”
of which I am a proud recipient of old vine Syrah in St
and her regular Instagram virtual vineyard rambles
she strives to educate wine lovers on the unique
Rainbow in the autumn afternoon sky over Domaine Les Païssels old vine vineyards in AOP Saint ..
After traveling the world working harvests
Vivien Roussignol and Marie Toussaint decided in 2016
to return to Roussignol’s home and resurrect his family’s vineyards
planted by his grandfather with grapes being sold to local co-operatives for around twenty years
Just outside the commune of Babeau-Bouldoux
the winery’s vineyards benefit from this part of AOP Saint Chinian’s elevation and schist soil
Passionate about making high-quality wines the “old way,” says Roussignol
the two oenologists converted the family vineyards to organics and sought additional old vines growing in schist to purchase
When they discovered a buried treasure walking distance from the winery
a vineyard with over 100-year-old Carignan
“For fifty years this vineyard was plowed with a horse
This Carignan is now part of the Les Jalousses and Les Païssels (which also contains old vine Syrah planted by Roussignol’s grandfather) Cuvees
Their vineyards are filled with quintessential Languedoc flora
Roussignol and Toussaint recently introduced sheep for winter vineyard maintenance and further biodiversity
the sweet smell of garrigue meanders through the air
and the rainbow across the sky seals the deal – this place is heaven
through Domaine Les Païssels experimental vineyard
they have recovered grapes near extinction
looking forward to their new plantings becoming old vines
“We focus on learning proper pruning of old vines
I watch how older generations gently prune by following the vine
“The secret to old vines is well-planted vines
properly pruned in schist soil,” shares Roussignol