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In many ways, he’s one lucky Palomino stallion. Copper’s job is to identify mares on heat, with a show of great enthusiasm. As they pass his quarters, they will indicate their readiness with a lift of the tail. If they’re not in the mood, they will try to kick him in the teeth as they sashay by.advertisementDon't want to see this? Remove ads
That’s why Copper’s enclosure is well padded with old tyres
The mares on heat are destined to share their affections with other thoroughbred stallions
But lest you shed a tear for Copper’s sex life
he occasionally gets to run with the resident farm herd of free-roaming horses
who knows what happens out there in the veld
Our visit to this family farm just south of Gariep Dam takes place in 2016
when a truly Biblical drought has begun to bite deep
life seems unaccountably cheerful out here at Gelykfontein
The racehorse brood mares with their long-legged colts and fillies in the paddocks are peacefully swishing their tails
The Nguni cows are glossy and in fine condition
Poffie the parrot is up to his usual tricks
calling Nonna the boerboel and then telling her to voertsek before launching into his repertoire of telephone sounds
Farmer Schalk van der Walt is the fourth generation on this land
On a morning ramble with him through the veld
we realise the Van der Walt family is as tough as the land itself
“Even with this terrible drought, I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else,” says Van der Walt. “If I had my life again, I would do exactly this. The Karoo has been good to me.”advertisementDon't want to see this? Remove ads
and the blessings of the Verreaux’s eagle that roost here
Copper the good-natured Palomino is the ‘teaser’ for the thoroughbred brood mares
The horse theme is picked up in one of the Morning Glory guest cottages
A vari-coloured troop of ‘Karoo mustangs’ canter down to the water
Gelykfontein Specials in their natural Karoo setting
A decent dust bath in a Gelykfontein enclosure does wonders for this young steed
By the 1950s, around 70% of the country’s thoroughbred brood mares were based in a rough quadrangle between Venterstad, Middelburg, Colesberg and the southern Free State. The secret lay in the soil and plants, rich in calcium, phosphorus and other minerals that give horses strong bones. The dry healthy climate also ensured fewer diseases.advertisementDon't want to see this? Remove ads
there were still 40 horse farms in this magical equine-friendly triangle of the Karoo
But when manufactured feeds were developed in the late 1980s to include all the trace minerals the animals needed
South Africa’s racehorse studs were increasingly moved close to bigger centres
Van der Walt still believes that the natural grazing in the veld and the trace elements in the water are better for the horses than relying on artificial feeds
European cattle that needed fairly intensive care in the harsh conditions of the Karoo
these particular specimens proved to be skittish and unmanageable
ploughing their way through fences onto neighbours’ properties
but top among them is their calm temperament
Schalk with his new breeding project – a herd of Ankole cattle
He has begun cross-breeding Ankole bulls with a selected group of Nguni cows in separate camps
Van der Walt is so besotted with the Ngunis that he will consider no other breed: “I’m not interested in those giant cattle, bred for feedlots. I don’t want to be running after them all the time.”advertisementDon't want to see this? Remove ads
He has found a growing market for grass-fed
Having evolved for at least 8,000 years alongside humans in Africa
Ngunis are tractable beasts – more placid and alert than most bovine types
“Just look how calm this bull is,” he says
scratching its ear and dewlap with the stick he carries everywhere with him
“I could mention a few other cattle breeds that would have flattened and buried us by now.” He dotes on them
watching over his herds and talking about the heifers and bulls and their temperaments as if they were a bunch of eccentric relatives starring in a silent soap opera
He talks with love and familiarity of their ancestors and sires – Ingwavuma
The speckled beasts and their toughness inspired Van der Walt to look anew at other locally adapted animals
he invested in a group of perky Xhosa lob-eared goats
speckled with big apple-sized polka dots on their varicoloured pelts
a hand-raised nanny goat called Marilyn peeled out of the herd and made straight for Van der Walt
peering adoringly into his eyes and meh-ing a goatish greeting
Schalk van der Walt is even breeding a new kind of horse that is ideal for farmwork
hard hooves that don’t need shoeing – a great boon on farms far from farriers
It will come as no surprise that many are spotted too
we heard that rain had started falling on Gelykfontein and the Gariep catchment
a remarkable 120mm of rain that revived the wetlands
The Gariep dam swelled from 45% to near-capacity
It was a desperately welcome reprieve in a drought that would grind on for another three years
“You have to come and see how beautiful it is,” said Schalk’s daughter Marené over the phone
We watched as the frisky Merino sheep raced the springbok in the veld
Ground squirrels popped up and flourished their tails at us
ganna and kriebos that seemed dead and grey only two months before were green and vigorous
A hand-raised Xhosa lob-eared goat called Marilyn
but also have a useful function in hot climates – helping to cool blood to the head
The korhaans call out their rattling krr-keraak cries
Blue cranes were pairing off to raise their young
The gemsbok watched us from a rise before wheeling away like a cavalry regiment
we saw a herd of Van der Walt’s Gelykfontein Specials
They were scattered around the veld but raised their heads when they saw us
These Karoo Mustangs gathered together in a spirited herd before stockman Frans “Tokkie” Januarie gently drove them towards the water
Tokkie was mounted on one of these same Gelykfontein Specials
This is an extract from Karoo Roads III – The Journeys Continue, a book with black-and-white images by Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit. For an insider’s view on life in the Dry Country, get the three-book special of Karoo Roads I, Karoo Roads II and Karoo Roads III for only R800, including courier costs in South Africa. For more details, contact Julie at [email protected]
It little positiveness in todays negative news times
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say they are repeatedly denied access to some of their traditional fishing grounds
Inland small-scale fishers from the communities of Norvalspont
Venterstad and Oviston in the Eastern Cape say they are tired of fighting for access to historical fishing grounds
Marginalised and impoverished fishers from these communities report that they are denied access to their traditional fishing grounds within the nature reserve of Oviston and recently led a march to the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency (ECPTA) offices to hand over a memorandum of demands
According to the Masifundise Development Trust
fishers are also asked to pay an entrance fee of R25 in order to enter the reserve
which is located on the southern shores of the Gariep Dam
They say this amount is unrealistic for small-scale fishers who try to earn an income but do not catch enough fish to sell and make their money back
I don’t have money to take my children to school,” says Nomfundo Saul
“But I am fighting for my right to access fishing grounds so that I can catch fish and have some money to send my children to school and to put food on the table.”
ALSO READ: Inland fisheries policy ‘can only work if implemented’
Food For Mzansi previously reported that freshwater fishing activities in South Africa are currently regulated by the department of forestry
and that existing regulations only provide for recreational fishing
who continue generational fishing traditions to put food on the table
are fighting for the rights to make a legal living from it
a small-scale fisher also from Norvalspont
says that fishing is his livelihood and he wants fishing rights
“There is unemployment [and] pensioners don’t work and are struggling
During the Covid-19 pandemic many people lost their jobs and still sit without one.”
“We don’t want to fight; we just want access to our fishing grounds
[Management] is making things very difficult for us fishers by refusing access to the reserve
Reserve manager Luyanda Gcaza later met with representatives of the inland fishing communities and acknowledged fishers’ grievances
Gcaza agreed to set up community structures that allow ECPTA to work together with the communities on issues regarding access to the reserve
ALSO READ: Small-scale fishers have it hard this Easter
Similar problems stretch far beyond the Eastern Cape
Mtubatuba and Jozini in KwaZulu- Natal fight the same battle
In Mazambane and Mtubatuba fishers express their frustration with the restrictive own-consumption permits that prohibit the sale of fish
this impedes on their ability to sustain a livelihood and income
Fishers say that their cooperatives suffer as they cannot make any profit from their restricted fishing activities
they also request that local municipalities assist them in creating local markets where they will be able to sell their harvest
ALSO READ: Fishers losing faith in Creecy after lobster debacle
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unashamedly saluting the unsung heroes of South African agriculture
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2017As we drove past the Lake Gariep reservoir
Toni Richard Poni points to the farm he grew up on
shimmering in the late afternoon light just like all the water around it
when we get close enough to walk to the reservoir
Toni points out the subtleties I missed — the small island that juts up was actually a hill that flanked the farm houses
those mountains on the side divided the farm between two provinces
the farm-owners' homes were tucked over there
It was a poignant reminder that almost 50 years after the reservoir filled
Toni Richard Poni points out the site of his farm
When I began my journey into the Karoo a few weeks back
fully aware that Gariep and Van der Kloof dam — the pillars of the Orange River Development Project – were built almost two generations ago
But with the invaluable help of famers and municipal employees in the Colesberg district
is largely responsible for this — he tracked these individuals down and translated their stories from Xhosa and Afrikaans to English
The story Lungile and I found was dispersed in the towns and townships of Kuyasa
all of which circle Van der Kloof and Gariep Dam
leaving the life of the farm behind to build new lives in the segregated townships that were a feature of apartheid life
who were very young when the dam was built
and then took their newfound skills to construction jobs around the country
and I came to realize that the dam project was a project of its time
requiring all blacks to carry identity documents with their ethnicity
hindered the free movement of many workers we talked to (and were almost always derisively referred to as the 'Dompas' or Dumb Pass)
Some dam jobs were reserved for blacks in the Transkei and Ciskei
segregated and economically-depressed homelands that the apartheid government set aside to cordon off blacks
this policy limited work opportunities for blacks who lived closest to the dam
so a few people we spoke to changed their names to 'coloured' surnames in order to find work
Some families spoke of rushed removals off their farms
possibly because of the devastating floods that overtook the Orange River in 1968
Some spoke of how the dam allowed for a new beginning by giving them the chance to move to a township and be in a larger community
the snapshot of around 20 farm and dam workers we spoke to mentioned how the bones of their ancestors remain inundated
One mentioned how her ancestors were complaining that they were cold underwater
Wakhanda Boots Martins looks out over his property
we interviewed a few members of the Poni and Phongolo families
"It was like a town," Christina Phongolo told us
who was around 17 when the dam was being built
hated his life of labor on the farm – the early morning work as a child and extremely low pay
But the farm offered open space and livestock and free meals
which many interviewees wistfully recalled
Unemployment and a lack of job opportunities is rife in the townships today
The Poni and Phongolo family gather for a group shot in Venterstad
I was only able to speak to one farmer on camera
who's father was one of the main engineers on the Gariep dam
Kathy and David described a wonderful boomtown that sprung up when the dam was being built
International consultants and engineers set up shop in the area
and this sleepy slice of the Karoo came alive with restaurants
Many families asked us to give them the final report when we were done — some wanted to use it to seek compensation for livestock and land losses
Since the final report won't be done for a while
we instead held a small exhibition at the Colesberg Museum
We put up the photos we took and screened a short film based on their interviews
Lungile and I purposefully omitted details like name titles or exposition about the Orange River Project
since most of our audience was familiar with the project and each other
I'll share some more of these narratives and stories
The Poni and Phongolo families settles in for a meal after the exhibition at the Colesberg Museum
I worked as a fact-checker before this fellowship
I find it hard to square away the 'truth' in everyone's interviews
There are gaps and inconsistencies in people's stories
and timelines don't always make sense
The goal of this project is to capture people's 'lived experiences,' and I've realized those experiences can be messy
Memories fade and experiences weave together over time
Recording life narratives may be less about combing over every detail
more about listening for and appreciating the heart of the story
Ishan Thakore, a multimedia storyteller and journalist, is creating a series of short films to portray a nuanced portrait of the human benefits as well as the costs of large-scale water development in South Africa. Follow him here on the Voices blog, on Twitter and on Instagram
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