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But the sass—gods, the sass! Cherry once told a punter, “Mate, you last shorter than my ciggie break!” Had me in stitches, that did. Love their grit, their gob. They’re like me—mischief in their veins, dodgin’ rules, livin’ loud. “I glean where I can,” Agnès’d say, and these lot glean life itself, don’t they? Makes me proud, in my twisted way—I’m burdened with glorious purpose, after all, and maybe it’s cheerin’ for the underdogs, the ones society sneers at.

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For these sidewalk queens are transgender sex workers, and Taman Lawang has long been their territory. Prostitution is a common career.

After that, I decide to head to the Lawang train station. I’ve heard it’s a cool spot. I get there, and it’s like a scene from a movie. Trains coming and going, people rushing. I’m just standing there, taking it all in, when I spot this old man selling kue cubir. I can’t resist. I buy a bunch, and they’re so good! I’m practically dancing on the platform.

Indonesia's Lawang Sewu Underground Room Reopened After 10 Years