While each model embodies the collection’s core values The green dial, a first for this case size, sets this new version apart. The dial showcases the collection’s signature Clous de Paris guilloché-style embossed pattern, with a flat sunray-brushed ring that holds silver-toned applied Roman numerals. Additional elements include plaque-like areas above and below the centre that display the series name and the Tissot 1853 logo The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands match the case and stand against the green backdrop while the central seconds hand glides smoothly across the dial A functional date window at 3 o’clock completes the timepiece’s practical features As its name implies, this Le Locle model is powered by the Powermatic 80 calibre, the Swatch Group’s refined evolution of the famous ETA 2824 This movement offers an 80-hour power reserve and enhanced magnetic resistance thanks to its Nivachron hairspring while operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour quick-release 7-link stainless steel bracelet secured by a butterfly clasp with safety push buttons a grey strap with a pin buckle is available at an additional cost the Le Locle Powermatic 80 is priced at EUR 725 Quick Facts – 39.3mm x 9.75mm stainless steel case – sapphire crystal see-through back – 30m water-resistant – green dial with guilloché-like pattern silver-coloured applied Roman indices and hands – automatic calibre Powermatic 80 date – quick-release interchangeable steel bracelet with folding clasp – ref The new Le Locle COSC 39mm 18K Gold Bezel is the most expensive offering in Tissot’s otherwise affordably priced Le Locle collection, at EUR 1,845. This is justified by it being the only model in the series to feature a solid 18K gold bezel (as opposed to PVD-coated alternatives) and boasts a COSC-certified Powermatic 80 movement This latest Le Locle reference maintains the familiar 39.3mm case and dial design that defines the collection While the overall aesthetic remains quite understated the solid gold bezel makes Le Locle COSC 39mm a versatile timepiece equally suited for daily wear and special occasions Quick Facts – 39.3mm x 10.45mm stainless steel case with solid 18K gold bezel – sapphire crystal see-through back – 30m water-resistant – silvered dial with guilloché-like pattern gold-coloured applied Roman indices and hands – automatic calibre Powermatic 80 For more details, please visit TissotWatches.com By the way the same could be said about Grand Seiko This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks The action you just performed triggered the security solution There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page The Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle at Art Genève30th January The Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle (MBAL) is proud to announce its first participation in Art Genève a prestigious art fair renowned as a key meeting point for international art collectors and enthusiasts in Switzerland taking place from January 30 to February 2 MBAL will join other prominent institutions in presenting a unique exhibition.MBAL has given carte blanche to artist Koenraad Dedobbeleer who is set to have an exhibition at the museum in October 2025 Drawing from the museum’s extensive collection of approximately 5,000 objects the Belgian artist creates a rich dialogue between his own works and these pieces for Art Genève Known for his playful reinterpretation of everyday objects these serve as aesthetic and historical sources of inspiration for the artist “The MBAL is delighted to participate in the Art Geneve fair an unmissable opportunity to share our curatorial research which brings the museum’s collection into dialogue with contemporary artists Koenraad Dedobbeleer’s ironic and metaphoric approach which rethinks everyday objects in surprising ways and I am thrilled to be able to present his work in our booth.” – Federica Chiocchetti Director and Curator of the Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle (MBAL) Intrigued by the world of manufacturing and industry Dedobbeleer has selected three works from the museum’s collection subtle rebellion and the scenographic prosthetics the artist crafts a hybridand captivating installation that reimagines traditional roles of artist and artisan and artist Koenraad Dedobbeleer will host a conversation on February 1 (from 16h00 to 17h00) titledMetamorphosis of a Collection Federica Chiocchetti is also a member of the jury for the F.P which annually awards the best solo exhibition presented at the fair lives and works in Brussels) creates sculptures site-specific installations and photographs that are full of associations ironic commentary and references to art history Winner of the Mies van der Rohe Prize in 2009,he is also a curator and co-editor of the fanzine UP He employs techniques such as deconstructionand manipulation to ensure that the changes in context and transformations of these common objects and motifs encourage the viewer to reflect on their fundamental nature and their existence within newly established frameworks Their approach opens up new perspectivesand a range of possible interpretations Koenraad Dedobbeleer describes his work as a multifaceted involving a non-scientific exploration of options The Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle (MBAL) is a leading institution in Switzerland with an international reputation thanks to its innovative and accessible programming The museum offers monographic and thematic exhibitions that broaden perspectives and bring togetherart from the past and present by creating a dialogue between works from its collection and contemporary Swiss and international creations Located in the centre of Le Locle and established in 1862 with its beautiful Art Nouveau building renovated in 2014 offers 800 m2 of exhibition space and a virtual platform for digital art which includes around 5,000 pieces ranging from paintingsand scriptures to works on paper by Swiss and international artists from the 17th century to the contemporary such as those from the Swiss Confederation and the Gottfried Keller Foundation under the direction of curator and writer Federica Chiocchetti (PhD) the acquisition policy has focused on achieving gender parity with a strong commitment to equality between men and women Learn more Art Plugged is a contemporary platform inspired by a relationship with the broader arts communities We provide our audience with curated insight into the world of art from exhibitions to artist interviews and more We strive to showcase all mediums of art from all corners of the globe so we have you covered whether you’re a casual art lover or a serious collector And that’s where the GMT is heading on the morning of Day 3 of the GMT Watch Safari, a week of total immersion at the heart of Switzerland's finest watchmakers from 27 October to 1 November 2024. Join us on the Watch Safari GMT Magazine is organizing a week-long adventure for 24 watch enthusiasts with stops in Neuchâtel and the Vallée de Joux The itinerary includes an exclusive exploration of the workshops and manufactures where exceptional timepieces are born Here's a sneak preview of the programme for Day 3 which begins with a morning dive into Zenith’s Manufacture Founded in 1865 by the visionary Georges Favre-Jacot Zenith quickly established itself as a pioneer in the watchmaking industry the watchmaking culture of canton Neuchâtel was characterised by its practical and progressive embrace of industrial processes a large factor in the undisputed status and hegemony of Swiss watchmaking in the modern age.  Zenith was one of the pioneering watch companies to bring all the watchmaking crafts under one roof a revolutionary concept at the time that allowed for greater control over quality and the seamless integration of various watchmaking skills and technologies As a testament to the brand's commitment towards sharing its heritage with longtime watch lovers and horological novices alike Zenith was the first Swiss watchmaking manufacture to officially open itself to public visits a few years ago partnering with the tourism board of canton Neuchâtel to offer guided tours of their facilities Seeing the historic parts of the Zenith headquarters opens the eyes to how watchmaking was an integral and foundational element of Le Locle The brick chimney that towers over the rest of the city is a key feature of the Zenith manufacture marking the location of the steam-powered generators that supplied electricity over a century ago not only to the factory The attic is famous among enthusiasts of watchmaking history of courage in times of crisis and the fierce guardianship of priceless patrimony — a story that is best told (and heard) under the aged wooden beams holding up the roof of the Zenith manufacture An Intimate Glimpse into Horological Mastery A tour of the Zenith manufacture offers an unparalleled opportunity to witness the art of watchmaking in its purest form crafting each component with high levels of attention to detail From the delicate assembly of movements to the intricate decoration of dials every step of the process is executed with a level of craftsmanship that can only be achieved through decades of experience and dedication Even in the more industrially focused workshops where modern machining and milling equipment carry out the heavy work of cutting metal plates into watch components delivering components with fine mechanical tolerances to the rest of the assembly workshops One of the highlights of the Zenith experience is the chance to see the legendary El Primero movement in the making the El Primero was the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement and it remains one of the most precise and celebrated movements in the history of watchmaking To witness it come to life in the hands of Zenith’s expert watchmakers is a moment that every horology enthusiast will cherish Zenith offers an experience that transcends time itself The manufacture is surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes of the Jura Mountains providing a serene backdrop for a journey into the heart of Swiss watchmaking combined with the warmth and hospitality of the Zenith team creates an atmosphere where visitors can truly connect with the brand’s legacy and passion the Zenith manufacture is more than just a destination; it is a pilgrimage where the relentless pursuit of excellence continues to drive innovation and where the art of horology is celebrated in its purest form To register for the GMT Watch Safari, from 27 October to 1 November 2024, click here The World Heritage Centre is at the forefront of the international community’s efforts to protect and preserve World Heritage partnerships for conservation Ensuring that World Heritage sites sustain their outstanding universal value is an increasingly challenging mission in today’s complex world where sites are vulnerable to the effects of uncontrolled urban development Our Partners Donate Take advantage of the search to browse through the World Heritage Centre information The site of La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle watchmaking town-planning consists of two towns situated close to one another in a remote environment in the Swiss Jura mountains Their planning and buildings reflect watchmakers’ need of rational organization the towns owed their existence to this single industry Their layout along an open-ended scheme of parallel strips on which residential housing and workshops are intermingled reflects the needs of the local watchmaking culture that dates to the 17th century and is still alive today The site presents outstanding examples of mono-industrial manufacturing-towns which are well preserved and still active The urban planning of both towns has accommodated the transition from the artisanal production of a cottage industry to the more concentrated factory production of the late 19th and 20th centuries The town of La Chaux-de-Fonds was described by Karl Marx as a “huge factory-town” in Das Kapital where he analyzed the division of labour in the watchmaking industry of the Jura sur des terrains peu propices à l’agriculture les villes voisines de La Chaux-de-Fonds et Le Locle illustrent un développement urbain original qui reflète les besoins d’organisation rationnelle de la production horlogère Planifiées au début du XIXème siècle les villes sont entièrement destinées à cette production Leurs tracés selon un schéma ouvert et en bandes parallèles imbriquant l’habitat et les ateliers correspondent aux besoins de la culture professionnelle horlogère qui remonte au XVIIème siècle mais se maintient encore aujourd’hui Le site constitue un remarquable exemple de villes ordonnées par une activité mono-industrielle bien conservées et toujours en activité La planification urbaine des deux villes s’est adaptée au passage d’une production artisanale avec travail à domicile à une production manufacturière plus intégrée avec les usines de la fin du XIXème et du XXème siècle Quand il analyse la division du travail dans Le Capital Karl Marx prend comme exemple l’industrie horlogère du Jura suisse et invente à propos de La Chaux-de-Fonds le terme de « ville-manufacture » يعكس تخطيط هاتين المدينتين المجاورتين والواقعتين في منطقة نائية في جبال الجورا، وعلى أراض لا تصلح للزراعة، حاجة صناع الساعات إلى ترشيد أنشطتهم وتعتمد هاتان المدينتان، اللتان تم تخطيطهما في بداية القرن التاسع عشر بعد نشوب حرائق هائلة بالمنطقة، على صناعة الساعات دون غيرها أما تصميم المدينتين وفق مخطط غير محدد المعالم من مساحات متوازية من الأراضي تختلط فيها المساكن والورش، فإنه يعكس الضرورات التي تنطوي عليها ثقافة صناعة الساعات المحلية التي يعود تاريخها إلى القرن السابع عشر ومازالت قائمة حتى الآن ويُعتبر الموقع أحد الأمثلة البارزة لمدن تقتصر أنشطتها الصناعية على نوع واحد من المنتجات، والتي بقت بحالة جيدة واستمرت في ممارسة هذه الأنشطة وكان من شأن التخطيط الحضري لكل من المدينتين تيسير الانتقال من الإنتاج الحرفي الخاص بصناعة الأكواخ إلى الإنتاج الصناعي الأكثر تركيزاً الذي ميَّز القرنين التاسع عشر والعشرين وقد أعطى كارل ماركس وصفاً لمدينة لاشو ـ دي ـ فون مفاده أنها "المدينة الصناعية الضخمة"، وذلك في كتابه "رأس المال"، حيث أورد تحليلاً لتقسيم العمل في مجال صناعة الساعات في إقليم الجورا Este sitio consiste en dos ciudades situadas en terrenos poco aptos para la agricultura de una zona apartada de las montañas del Jura Las dos localidades vecinas ilustran con su urbanismo las necesidades de organización racional de la industria relojera el trazado urbano de ambas localidades está concebido en función de esa industria ajustándose a un esquema abierto en bandas paralelas en el que se imbrican casas y talleres para mejor responder a las necesidades profesionales de los relojeros cuya actividad se remonta al siglo XVII y perdura hoy todavía El sitio constituye un ejemplo notable de ciudades monoindustriales bien conservadas y en plena actividad actualmente Su planificación urbana se ha amoldado a la evolución de la relojería que pasó de la producción artesanal a domicilio a una producción fabril más integrada a finales del siglo XIX y principios del XX Cuando analizó la división del trabajo en El Capital la industria relojera del Jura y se refirió a la ciudad de La Chaux-de-Fonds definiéndola como “una sola manufactura de relojes” The watchmaking urban ensemble of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle demonstrates outstanding universal value as these twin manufacturing-towns constitute an exceptional example of organic urban ensembles entirely dedicated to a single industry They have been constructed by and for watchmaking They are the product of an extremely close symbiosis between socio-technical needs and responses provided by town planning choices Watchmaking has given rise to a remarkable architectural typology in the built structure Housing designed for home working is situated alongside owners’ houses in a homogeneous and rational urban fabric that is open to the outside The two towns bear witness to the exceptional uninterrupted continuation of a living and world-renowned watchmaking tradition which has succeeded in coping with the socio-technical and economic crises of the contemporary world Criterion (iv): La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle constitute a unique urban and architectural ensemble wholly dedicated to watchmaking from the 18th century until the present day Watchmaking space and living space co-exist in an extremely close relationship and open planning of the urban space has encouraged the sustainable development of this mono-industry The integrity of the watchmaking vocation of the two towns of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle is total and has remained so for more than two centuries; furthermore It is given concrete expression in the permanence of the ordered and cumulative street plans of the first half of the 19th century and the continuity of the basic architectonic motifs of the built structure based on a comprehensive typology from the end of the 18th century until today The typological and environmental study of post-1930 buildings shows some important disruptions (high buildings) but above all functional and architectural continuity (factories of the 1960s workers’ housing estates) with the earlier built structure The numerical indexes based on precise data in the evaluation of the integrity and authenticity of an urban ensemble are useful The day-to-day management process is carried out by the Communes and their urban planning and heritage departments The Steering Committee for the nomination dossier became the Permanent Coordination Committee for the sites in March 2008 Its role is to designate a ‘site manager’ and set up various working groups It is supported by a Multi-disciplinary Group whose role is to provide scientific and professional advice The efficiency of the urban management already in place should continue A look into the inner halls of Tudor's cutting-edge new facility and the home that it shares with Kenissi How To Wear It The Cartier Tank Cintrée In-Depth Examining Value And Price Over Time With The ‘No Date’ Rolex Submariner Watches In The Wild The Road Through America, Episode 1: A Model Of Mass Production just before the buzz and bustle of Watches & Wonders I found myself climbing the confined staircase of a double-decker tour bus I had come to Geneva a couple of days early thanks to an invite from Tudor offering a tour of the brand's newly-opened facility in Le Locle  Not one to turn down such an invite – not to mention a recent delivery of a Pelagos 39 that had been assembled in the new facility – the day promised a rare glimpse inside the often secretive but evolving world of Tudor I watch from the upper deck as other members of the watch press filed out of the hotel and found a seat on the bus The drive from Geneva to the new Tudor facility should take about two hours as we roll out of the city on the lake and head into Le Locle one of the main centers of watchmaking for the entire Swiss industry despite having been around for some 97 years this is Tudor's first exclusive production site Construction began in 2018 and the building was completed in 2021 offering Tudor a specialized home in the ideal area to connect with suppliers The total building is over 114,000 sqft and offers more than 60,000 sqft of workspace for the assembly which number more than 700 references and are sold in 80 countries around the world the building represents a fully modern and entirely considered solution complete with a specialized HVAC system to provide ideal control over temperature and humidity and some 442 solar panels to help power the whole operation one element of the new facility is dedicated to Tudor's operations and quality control (including component checks The other side of the facility is dedicated to Kenissi We start at the movement side of the new facility with Kenissi.  Watchmakers at work assembling Tudor movements.  For those that have never found it all that clear The result of Tudor's work in creating their own movement back in 2015 Kenissi was launched in 2016 as a subsidiary of Tudor that manufactures and assembles movement not only for Tudor (duh) but also Chanel (who owns a piece of the Kenissi business) which includes a tiny built-in production that manages movements throughout the hand assembly process A movement is delivered  to the watchmaker and it then rejoins the cue flowing through the desks from a centralized storage hub that is supported by a robotic arm.  Kenissi manufactures movements that fall into one of three families and the company currently produces about 80% of the components for a given movement (with the rest being supplied via close partners) The new Tudor facility offers a pair of identical assembly lines that feed components final movements to a series of stops along a largely automated line Tudor's non-movement production is much more horizontally integrated as the various components are produced either via brand partners or through ancillary companies that Tudor owns in Switzerland Movements are delivered via a specialized system of tunnels that connect each desk with each stage of the movement assembly.  Tiny movements in plastic holders flow through translucent tunnels all controlled by computers and specialized processes it heads to the other side of the building where it is installed into a Tudor watch on the assembly floor The assembly floor feels a lot like other watch manufacturers I've visited Groups of nested watchmaking workspaces allow the various components of the watch to come together via the hands of a skilled watchmaker Each cell of desks is capable of assembling and checking any reference and the entire process operates on a "no stock" philosophy so production is based on actual demand from clients and retailers Brand new air circulates through 3.5 times per hour and the flow of the air in the space has been specifically designed to keep dust to an absolute minimum in which partially assembled watches (no strap or bracelet) are subjected to a battery of tests that pertain to either METAS or TPC (that's Tudor Performance Control) stipulations running 24 hours a day with the support of some very cool robots subjected to extreme magnetism (especially for the METAS certification) and are even tested for the proper functioning of the power reserve Can you spot some of the interesting models we saw mid-testing be they arms or sort of Dalek-like delivery bots make up an interesting portion of this stage and it's neat to experience the cross-section of modern manufacturing processes against the backdrop and environment of Swiss watchmaking A specialized robot delivers a tray of Black Bay Ceramic models to a collection area.  This is the testing floors anti-magnetism rig which is capable of testing a group of METAS chronometers up to 15,000 gauss.  The special tray that carries the METAS Chronometers into the anti-magnetic testing machine.  where a group of watchmakers completes a full check of the watch and its functions the engraving is laser-based and you can actually do some pretty wild designs.. This caseback is not wearing hockey pants.  After seeing so many robotic arms carrying out specific processes it was fun to see a real human fit a fresh bracelet in just a few seconds I wish they had been offering classes as it takes a special touch to fit a Tudor bracelet without causing any scratches (and let alone doing it with a complete bracelet that is also wrapped in plastic for delivery) if you know me and what I love to write about you'll know that I've offered a lot of praise to Tudor over the past decade I enjoy the watches that they produce and have even put my money where my mouth is with the recent purchase of a Pelagos 39 it was a special treat to get a tour of the Le Locle facility and to meet some of the people that are actually assembling their watches Getting back on the bus to head back down to Geneva the new Tudor facility underlined one major concept for me – maturity While I don't think there is anyone out there claiming that Tudor should keep its distance from Rolex it's clear that Tudor has been incredibly successful over the past 15 years and that success has afforded the brand a bit of breathing room That independence could signal many things and it almost certainly means a continued push toward more METAS Chronometers in the lineup But it also means that Tudor can protect its price point and its supply chain in a manner that sets the brand up for continued success especially when it comes to actually getting Tudor watches on the wrists all over the world Introducing The Doxa Sub 200, Now With A Steel Bezel Introducing Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519 Watch Spotting The Watches & Fashion Of Met Gala 2025 Business News Rolex Will Raise U.S. Prices In Response To Tariffs Six Of The Coolest CPO Rolex Watches I Saw In London's Old Bond Street Rolex Boutique Reference Points The Cartier Tank Louis Introducing The Christopher Ward C12 'Loco' (Live Pics) Hands-On Tudor's Black Bay Pro Gets A Surprisingly Dramatic Facelift With An Opaline Dial WATCHPRO USA Tissot has unveiled three new skeleton-dialed watches in its classic Chemin des Tourelles collection The watches are the latest additions to the growing dress watch collection that pays tribute to Tissot’s origin story Chemin des Tourelles – literally “the path of the turrets” or Turret Road – is the small street in the Swiss watchmaking hub of Le Locle where Tissot was founded back in the early 1900s The collection was enhanced last year with the introduction of a new automatic movement and now Tissot has brought out three with partially skeletonized dials which they are calling “a transparent vision of time”  There is a blue dial model with sandblasted and polished dauphine hands along with clous de paris patterns and styled with Roman numeral indices A second model has a sunray ivory-colored dial complemented by yellow-gold PVD baton indices and ivory dots in between it is worn on a high-quality patina khaki grained leather strap Finally there is a stealthy black PVD version with a sunray dial and subtly smoked glass All three have Swatch’s Powermatic 80 automatic movement with Nivachron hairspring and 80 hour power reserve The 39mm case is topped with a domed sapphire crystal These new additions to Tissot’s most classically styled collection are priced from £835. tissotwatches.com Every product is carefully selected by our editors. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. Learn more Automatic watches starting under $700 and quartz versions of the same models at even more affordable prices make Tissot a slam dunk of a value proposition You can even get a watch co-branded with your favorite NBA team as Tissot is the official timing sponsor of the NBA among other sporting endeavors The wide array of design and features means that almost everyone from watch collectors to Moto GP fans can find a watch in Tissot’s catalog to suit their needs — for not a crazy amount of scratch Founded in 1853 by father and son duo Charles-Felicien and Charles Emile-Tissot in Le Locle the eponymous brand was a pioneer in many ways throughout the history of watchmaking afraid that the skills of the artisans in Le Locle would be lost through time stressed the importance of watchmaking schools to the Swiss government He was influential enough that he was appointed National Inspector the Tissot brand becomes recognized throughout the world in cities such as Paris and Antwerp for their highly accurate pocket watches and their pioneering wristwatches worn by celebrities something that has become even more important in the 21st century In addition to technical developments, Tissot has continued to evolve its design language, as well. From bright colors and unique case shapes in the 1970s to watches made from rock in the 1980s to the first tactile watch in the 1990s, technology and design are at the forefront of this brand. Today, Tissot is a subsidiary of the Swatch Group The 2010s and 2020s have been no different for Tissot The launch of Swatch Group sister company ETA’s Powermatic 80 movement has brought the cost of entry for Swiss automatic wristwatches with premium features to new audiences The recently released PRX models have also been an instant hit The wide variety in the catalog should mean that there is something for nearly everyone The PRX line has been the darling of the entry-level watch space since its still recent (re)introduction This watch has embraced the integrated bracelet sport watch trend but at a price point for the masses and mixing in some retro ’80s flare The collection spans smaller quartz versions and the range is topped off with a 42mm automatic chronograph This family is a tour de force when it comes to design for dollar Hot on the heels of the initial PRX release came the Powermatic 80 model Relying on ETA’s workhorse Powermatic 80 movement this model offers everything we love about the design in a 40mm case but packing an automatic movement You can get it in a range of options from different dial executions (we like the waffle dials) as well as smooth or fluted bezels Diameter: 35mm – 42mm Movement: Swiss quartz Valjoux A05 H31 chronographConfigurations: Time and date chronographWater Resistance: 100m Price: $375-$1,750 These no-nonsense watches feature all of the technical specifications you would expect from a Swiss diver with at least 300m of water resistance The rotating bezel comes in handy as a backup for your dive computer or timing how long the ribeyes have been on the grill quartz chronographConfigurations: Time and date chronographWater Resistance: 300m-600mPrice: $375-$1,025 Tissot was among brands leading the way in innovative watchmaking materials such as plastic and Tissot advertised the Sideral as “super resistant,” and the brand has resurrected the line but with a different but with a Swiss automatic movement inside it is notable for Tissot’s sub-$1k price point The Sideral S is a near remake of a vintage model its case is made of carbon fiber and it features a modern Swatch Group (ETA) automatic movement inside but it also comes in three vibrant colors that pair to the carbon’s black/marbled case in a cool way The colorful dial with its five- and ten-minute countdown timing scales are made for regatta (yacht racing) timing Diameter: 41mmMovement: Powermatic 80 automaticConfigurations: Time and dateWater Resistance: 300mPrice: $950 The Tissot Gentleman is nearly a perfect everyday watch this collection has grown and now features three different metals The Gentleman can be had with either the grab-and-go convenience of Swiss Quartz movement or the more enthusiast-oriented Powermatic 80 automatic movement the Gentleman line features a 40mm case and a solid 100m of water resistance The Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is quite the mouthful of a moniker the automatic model in the Gentleman stable features the Powermatic 80 movement and is equipped with a silicon (silicium this watch looks the part in a way that its price tag normally wouldn’t Powermatic 80 SiliciumConfigurations: Time and dateWater Resistance: 100m The Tissot Classic family consists of timeless designs for dressier settings — and although they’re separate collections Le Locle and Tradition all kind of fill the same role we’re consolidating and highlighting a model from each of those to illustrate what’s generally on offer You’ll find both Swiss quartz and automatic movements here and a variety of sizes most watches in this collection lack the likes of lumed dials or the water resistance associated with sport watches The Tissot Classic watches offer an affordable way to get a classic dress watch The Classic Dream is Tissot’s entry-level dress watch Coming in at under $300 for the quartz model it also offers one of the lowest entry points into a Swiss-made automatic movement developed in conjunction with parent company Swatch Group provides an excellent value offering at just $525 with three days of power reserve and a Nivachron spring with magnetic resistance Diameter: 42mmMovement: SwissmaticConfigurations: Time and dateWater Resistance: 50mPrice: $495-$525 the Tissot Carson is an entry-level dress watch that can be had with either a quartz movement or Powermatic 80 automatic Offered on both a stylish leather strap or five-link bracelet this dress watch has elegant dial options to suit more formal occasions To add a bit of flair to the austere dress watch quartz versions of the Carson also offer a moonphase (as shown above) or chronograph complication Powermatic 80Configurations: Time and date chronographWater Resistance: 50mPrice: $325-$750 should be on the list of anyone looking for an affordable Swiss automatic dress watch All models run on the Powermatic 80 automatic movement and feature an attractive hobnail pattern on the inner dial contrasted by a smooth finished ring for the hour markers The case is perfectly sized for all wrists at just under 40mm Offered on both strap and a seven link bracelet this dress watch will easily fit under the cuff Diameter: 39.3mmMovement: Powermatic 80Configurations: Time and date perpetual calendarWater Resistance: 30mPrice: $575-$850 quartz movements and an “open heart” model the Tissot Tradition is a collection we feel is aimed more at the general consumer than the enthusiast The quartz models come in three styles: time and date or perpetual calendar The sole automatic on offer in the Tradition line features the Powermatic 80 movement but here with an “open-heart,” offering a view of the oscillating balance wheel straight from the dial perpetual calendarWater Resistance: 30mPrice: $300-$750 Inspired by designs made popular in the 1960s the Tissot PRS 516 primarily draws inspiration from Tissot’s motor racing heritage The motorsport ties for Tissot run back to 1958 when Swiss driver Harry Zweifel sent Tissot a signed picture stating that his Tissot is with him in every race The importance of timing in motorsport-inspired Tissot to debut the original PR 516 line in 1965 with a bracelet design inspired by the holes seen in race car steering wheels The original PR 516 was dubbed “Particularly Resistant” as the suspended movement made it more protected from lateral and axial shocks Tissot has sponsored racing teams across various disciplines from Alpine The current PRS line consists of three models: the PRS 516 Powermatic 80 the PRS 516 Powermatic 80 features a fixed steel bezel graduated for five-minute increments This watch comes on either a three-link steel bracelet or racing style leather strap and features a display case back allowing the wearer to see the movement’s racing-inspired rotor Diameter: 42mmMovement: Powermatic 80 automaticConfigurations: Time and day/dateWater Resistance: 100mPrice: $695 Diameter: 42mmMovement: QuartzConfigurations: Time chronographWater Resistance: 100mPrice: $650 Tissot has a rich back catalog of designs from previous eras The heritage collection is home to modern takes on these watches from yesteryear Offering a “greatest hits” compilation of sorts Tissot continues to pay tribute to watches that have help cement the brand in the minds of consumers The original Tissot Visodate debuted in 1953 the same year Tissot celebrated its 100th anniversary The original watch featured a date change at exactly midnight What sets this line apart from others in the catalog is the vintage logo at 12 o’clock The logo has been used in the past by Tissot on several heritage models or re-releases of classic watches from the back catalog Diameter: 42mmMovement: Powermatic 80Configurations: Time and day/dateWater Resistance: 30mPrice: $650-$675 Another noteworthy model in the heritage collection that leans into the motorsport theme looks forward to the decade after the previously mentioned PR 516 made its debut The Tissot Heritage 1973 chronograph comes straight from the 1970s with a tonneau case shape the Heritage 1973 has a 43mm case that measures 14.3mm thick the 1973 allows the wearer to track running seconds Diameter: 43mmMovement: Valjoux A05.H31 automatic chronographConfigurations: Time automatic chronographWater Resistance: 100m Tissot unveiled the T-Touch collection over 20 years ago the original T-Touch offered a tactile screen integrated into its crystal in 1999 While these watches have grown in both size and functionality over the last 23 years they are still a serious piece of equipment for adventurers and weekend warriors alike With multiple useful features and a solar energy source its no wonder these watches end up on the wrists of adventurers and TV hosts (the Grand Tour’s Richard Hammond can be seen sporting his older model on many of their destination episodes) Lightweight titanium helps the current T-Touch Connect Solar weight to a minimum as its overall footprint on your wrist is a larger 47.5mm this beast can track everything from your steps traveled this watch is perfect for an outdoor adventure that could last for multiple days at a time The functions are controlled by a touch-capacitive crystal as well as more traditional chronograph style buttons at 2 and 4 o’clock Diameter: 47.5mmMovement: Swiss connected solar quartz with 25 separate functionsConfigurations: Connected multifunction watchWater Resistance: 100m Characterized by large Arabic numerals and hands filled with superluminova the Tissot Chrono XL shoots for supreme legibility The Chrono XL is also one of the watches that features color and strap options for your favorite NBA team the Chrono XL features a large case with a big dial that only increases its visual presence The quartz chronograph movement offers precision timing with a 1/10th second subdial and 30-minute totalizer Running seconds and date round out the information conveyed dial side Offered in multiple finishes and dial colors the Chrono XL can be styled with either a modern or vintage look Diameter: 45mmMovement: Swiss quartz chronographConfigurations: Quartz chronographWater Resistance: 100mPrice: $375 – $495 The Supersport collection straddles two design languages The Supersport Chrono bills itself as a forward-looking timepiece offering a range of references to speak to the wearer’s personal sense of style picks up on vintage styles that have become popular again in modern times Both of these watches are stylish options that come in affordable packages The Supersport Gent borrows from skin-diver designs of the 1960s The rotating bezel features a color-matched aluminum insert perfect for tracking elapsed time The Swiss quartz movement and 44mm case update these classic good looks for modern tastes The 10mm thickness will also keep the Supersport Gent comfortable on your wrist Diameter: 44mmMovement: Swiss quartzConfigurations: Time and dateWater Resistance: 100mPrice: $325-$375 While the above Gent borrows from the past the Supersport Chrono has a more contemporary feel Bold angles and sharp lines separate this chronograph from other designs in the Tissot catalog The 45.5mm case features the same Swiss quartz chronograph movement found throughout the Tissot lineup which keeps overall thickness under 12mm The Supersport Chrono features recessed subdials Bold color options help this chronograph stand out even more Diameter: 45.5mmMovement: Swiss quartz chronographConfigurations: Time and date when it comes to classic elegance and timeless design a collection celebrating its 20th anniversary with the present edition Tissot pays tribute to its most classic collection It’s also important to note that this lineup was launched as a piece commemorating the brand’s rich past Founded in the small town of Le Locle in Switzerland back in 1853 Tissot celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2003 by releasing an elegant yet affordable collection aptly named Le Locle the Tissot Le Locle has been the brand’s most traditional Don’t look for fashionable elements here or bright The Le Locle was and still is a reserved and moderate watch Some people don’t need a statement watch; some enthusiasts simply want an elegant something that flies under the radar and yet offers a lot more than what its quiet looks might imply This is exactly what the Tissot Le Locle collection is all about. But with this new 20th Anniversary Edition, the brand is spicing things up. As you can imagine, over its 20 years of existence, the collection has been gradually updated – something we explored in late 2022 with the Powermatic 80 Open Heart version Not only is the movement now the Group’s highly efficient and technically advanced Powermatic but the design has also been slightly refined The Tissot Le Locle 20th Anniversary Edition is it will fit most masculine wrists (note that Tissot has also released a feminine 29mm model) with enough presence for a modern look yet without the inconvenience and discomfort of so many 40mm-plus so-called dress watches and despite not being able to call this watch ultra-thin it’s slender enough to fit under a cuff Almost ideal proportions for business attire The conservative look continues with the polished top surfaces and vertically brushed flanks of the case Not only does this tone down the overall shininess but it also adds a layer of animation and reveals the attention to detail The fact that the connection between the lugs and the case is slightly sculpted is a nice touch that adds to the overall elegance but we often come across accessible watches with soft cases; this is for the simple reason that sharp angles are more difficult and the Tissot Le Locle is not demonstrative and keeps a low profile but it’s detailed enough to stand out when worn another story… And the 30m water-resistance will Under the slightly domed sapphire crystal is a highly traditional dial the Le Locle collection has evolved in many directions with smooth dials with baton markers or dials with a vertical pattern and Arabic numerals Recent models have moved back to the present style with a combination of an embossed and reversed clous de Paris pattern – it’s unreasonable to expect a hand-guilloché dial in this price segment – and a sunray-brushed chapter ring The hobnail is also repeated on the periphery of the dial The smooth ring is home to applied Roman numerals – again The numerals of this 20th Anniversary Edition are blue as well as the name of the watch and the movement type and the date sits in a neatly cut window – blue numerals on the discs could have been a nice touch the blue and silver colour scheme is slightly more bold and modern than traditional versions and depending on the choice of bracelet or strap under the odd-looking caseback is a fairly interesting movement Many of you will already be familiar with the Powermatic 80 but it remains nevertheless a noteworthy calibre Developed over Swatch Group’s cornerstone ETA 2824 architecture it’s been revised with a slightly slower frequency and an improved kinetic chain resulting in more than double the power reserve the automatic Tissot Powermatic 80 is also protected against magnetism – the main reason for watches to be sent to after-sale service – thanks to a Nivachron hairspring With this 20th Anniversary Edition of the Tissot Le Locle the brand offers an alligator-like leather strap with its own folding clasp and a 7-link stainless steel bracelet allowing you to change from a formal to a casual look in a few seconds Overall, Tissot presents a compelling package. This Edition, like the rest of the collection, is a moderate, discreet watch that doesn’t draw too much attention – which, in all fairness, is exactly what the brand was looking for. But mostly, at EUR 775 or USD 750, you’ll get a lot of watch for your money. For more details, please visit www.tissotwatches.com Can somebody tell me why all manufacturers use ‘IIII’ instead of ‘IV’ in case of roman dials I would expect ‘IV’ to be correct but there must be a reason I overlooked Hi Laszio, in this story you can read all about the use of IIII over IV Is this the movement with the plastic pallet fork and escape wheel Tissot is paying tribute to its most classic collection itself being a piece commemorating the rich past of the brand refined yet affordable collection aptly named Le Locle this lineup is now celebrating 20 years of production and Tissot presents a special edition watch for the occasion the most traditional watch in the brand’s portfolio is no lume on the hands and Roman numerals with dials bearing a traditional texture refinement and a watch that will please people with classic tastes and those who want to maintain a low profile in the office Tissot has slightly revamped its Le Locle collection giving it a bit of modernity in the design and a lot more on the side of the mechanics We’ve seen this transition when exploring the new Le Locle Powermatic 80 Open Heart and you can expect the Le Locle Powermatic 80 20th Anniversary to follow the same rules Yet with some specificities to make it unique within the collection The 39mm case is made almost entirely of polished stainless steel with vertically-brushed surfaces on the flanks adding some contrast The watch keeps things elegant thanks to a relatively slim profile – just under 10mm making it easy to slip the watch under a cuff – and the 30-metre water-resistance will annihilate any wish of taking it for a jump in the pool A sapphire crystal protects the dial while the back has an original layout with a split see-through window and a lot of literature Following the evolution of the permanent collection this special edition Le Locle Powermatic 80 20th Anniversary uses the revamped dial with an embossed Clous de Paris pattern in the centre and the chapter ring The main specificity of this anniversary edition is the blue colour applied to the Roman numerals and leaf-shaped hands – a colour also found on the additional leather strap included in the presentation box Power comes from the tried-and-tested calibre Powermatic 80 this automatic movement is a strong evolution over the classic 2824 architecture its kinetic chain has been reworked and the frequency of the regulating organ lowered to 3Hz the escapement features a Nivachron hairspring Alongside the blue faux-alligator leather strap, this new Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 20th Anniversary Edition is worn on a 7-link steel bracelet with a folding clasp. Now available from the brand and its retailers, and not limited in production, it is priced at EUR 775, CHF 675 or USD 750. For more details, please visit www.tissotwatches.com Why on earth the date numerals are not in dominant blue??? I don’t understand why the Swatch group doesn’t develop a movement with a larger date disc or make their cases 37mm in size The date placement on the inside of the sector ring is a complete non-starter for me I shudder to think about the spacer ring around the movement Then they should drop the square shield that says powermatic 80 on the front but that lower shield is so large it’s disturbing The powermatic 80 is a run of the mill basic and somewhat spartan movement without user regulation options to my mind this looks like a typical mall watch Somehow I don’t think it’s helped by the somewhat strange looking minute track A 37mm design would have been more focused Otherwise it seems to be a less expensive Tudor 1926 As in a lot that goes on with the trust fund babies swatch group it appears that not much thoughtfulness happens as it may exhaust their collective minds in doing so The movement is nothing to advertise about on the dial contrary to what you’d like to have us believe Recently available in an openworked edition it’s now time for its dressier counterpart still with a Powermatic-based movement and an extra layer of elegance We’ve praised the Tissot Gentleman on many occasions here at MONOCHROME Considering its sub-1k price tag and everything it offers in return it is one of the best options when it comes to choosing an all-rounder watch sleek design and comfortable water-resistance this is a great contender for the one-watch collection suppose you’re looking for something more classic and dressier that can easily be switched over for a hardcore sports watch for the weekend the Tissot Le Locle is an alternative to consider seriously the most traditional watch in the brand’s collection: round case Some will undoubtedly think that this style is a bit old-fashioned it’s a timeless style that will please people with classic tastes and those who want to maintain a low profile in the office Don’t expect the Le Locle collection to find its place during the weekend; it’s not meant for that it leaves some of your budget to invest in a cool sporty watch The Tissot Le Locle has been revamped recently adding something even more traditional than the past collections It’s all about the details of the dial and the textures the Powermatic 80 movement is now at the heart of all the models – the collection is entirely mechanical – and at the top of the range you’ll even find a COSC-certified model (for less than 1,200 euros) the colours range from ultra-classic – silver or black – to quite classic –  with the boldest being a dark blue the brand now re-introduces the Open Heart model it’s not necessarily a fan favourite – at least for people with a good watchmaking culture consider young enthusiasts who have just entered the world of watches It’s actually quite cool to have the beating heart of your mechanical watch on display following the Gentleman Powermatic 80 Open Heart it’s now time for the Le Locle Powermatic 80 Open Heart to arrive It measures 39mm in diameter and is relatively thin at just below 10mm It is entirely polished with a domed bezel and a sapphire crystal protecting the dial but being a watch for a mainstream audience The water-resistance of 30m is on the lower side and this should really prevent you from wearing the watch during leisure activities and even comes with an original caseback – with a split see-through window and quite a lot of elements (maybe a bit too much) with a round window that only reveals the balance and its hairspring Powering this Open Heat Tissot Le Locle is Swatch Group’s new cornerstone entry-level movement This movement relies on the tried-and-tested ETA 2824 base the kinetic chain has been reworked – improved mainspring and lower frequency – resulting in a power reserve that has doubled – now 80 hours The Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80 Open Heart is available on an alligator-like leather strap with a butterfly folding clasp or on a 7-row stainless steel bracelet Both are equipped with quick-release spring bars for quick-change possibilities A third option with a two-tone style is also available the “open heart” makes this to look cheaper than the regular Le Locle The regulation of the original movement which was known to be very accurate is what made this watch appealing in the first place To replace it with something entirely different makes it less interesting not more The part of the movement we can see is not very attractive either As a cardiologist with patients undergoing open heart surgeries this model aptly applies and relevant to me/us Unfortunately this model is not yet available in my country Its look like a very good.I brought from dubai city center WATCHPRO For those who appreciate the art of watchmaking the town is a bastion of horological history often referred to as the birthplace of the Swiss watch industry Le Locle is the place where tradition and innovation collide and Tissot welcomed a dynamic new CEO in 2020 in the form of Sylvain Dolla Here he tells WatchPro about his respect for the past and why the newly-released PRX UFO Robot Grendizer was a passion project for him WATCHPRO: How did you start in the watch world SYLVAIN DOLLA: I have been working at the Swatch Group for 20 years it was a small company but within two years we were producing 20 million phones and I had the opportunity to work in the Middle East the Swatch Group was looking for somebody who knew the world of consumer electronics to prepare the launch of the Swatch Paparazzi and I got the job Paparazzi was the first connected watch and was a partnership between Microsoft and Swatch Group I will remember that time for my entire life – it was crazy It was an amazing way to learn about the Swatch Group My biggest learning curve was to understand fine watches – the history which was a stark contrast to consumer electronics that came when I started to work with them I was at Hamilton for 15 years and for the past four years I have been with Tissot although I started to work with the brand four years before I joined the company when I took part in the T-Touch Connect Solar project I always loved Tissot and was inspired by what it was doing even when I was working for Hamilton You are one of Swatch Groups most successful CEOs but do you see yourself first and foremost as a businessman or a watch man SYLVAIN DOLLA: Thank you for the compliment I would say that I am a watch enthusiast with a passion for marketing Tissot is a very strong brand in the watch industry and has been ever since its foundation in 1853 so it’s an honour for me to head up the team You were one of the first CEOs to see the value of a brand’s history and its relevance to today The main difference between consumer electronics companies and brands in the watch industry is this strong history It is part of what makes Tissot so special Tissot has so many stories and we can talk about innovations for hours We have 7,000 restored watches that reflect all the history and all the innovation of the brand I remember being upstairs opening drawer after drawer of pure inspiration That’s the beauty of having such a vast history We can use all the historical riches of the brand to come back with strong commercial products for the future Did you know that Tissot was the first brand to develop antimagnetic watches We are in a completely emotional industry and people buy our watches for a moment in life If we don’t communicate enough about our stories Why would I buy a watch for a wedding or for a graduation SYLVAIN DOLLA: We do have plans for a museum and we have so much in the pipeline that we can’t dedicate the necessary amount of time to it now But what we are doing is continuing to invest in our historic collection and every year This has led to us establishing a dedicated restoration hub in Switzerland and we are now able to repair very old Tissot watches for clients It doesn’t provide any source of revenue for us but the beauty of watches is that they are such an emotional product It seems like such an obvious winner – an original 1970s integrated steel sports watch – but why did it take so long to bring it back SYLVAIN DOLLA: I think the timing was just right This particular gut feeling came about during my first week at Tissot I discovered the richness of the archives going back to 1853 I was like a kid at Christmas discovering new beauties such as an extraordinary minute repeater I pulled out the 1970s drawer and saw what would become the Tissot PRX Was there opposition to your decision to revisit it the product manager said he had already started working on the reinterpretation of the watch so we looked at the analysis and I told the team that we needed the watch within 9-12 months We really worked on all the details in order to achieve a watch that could speak to everyone The attention to detail is what makes the difference We did everything to make it not only look good but also feel good on the wrist Were you surprised by it becoming such a phenomenon SYLVAIN DOLLA: It wasn’t difficult to see it could be a bestseller we still had a very positive surprise with its success as we are selling 20 times more units than we originally planned and our customers keep asking for more variations It has become one of our bestsellers worldwide the PRX is bringing new recognition to Tissot and giving it that ‘cool’ factor especially among Gen Z – said to be the most important demographic for the watch industry But is there a danger that you may become a ‘one model brand’ SYLVAIN DOLLA: The beauty of Tissot is that we are not a one model brand and that’s an amazing strength I would hate if we depended solely on the PRX because maybe tomorrow the sports watch with integrated bracelet will be out of fashion For us that is fine as we have other pillars that are holding Tissot up Tissot is known as the leading Swiss watch brand in terms of volume and we are well known for creating products from pocket watches mechanical models and connected timepieces We are very far from becoming a one model brand we have been concentrating our work on perceived value and fine-tuning the details reduced the number of references with a target of 99 references per year The fact that we have a third less to develop means that our product team has one third more of their time to dedicate to the fine parts of the watches But we are still far from just a one model brand The volume also entails a lower price point which does not have an unlimited budget but still wants to be able to afford a fine Swiss watch but also an older generation that pays attention to detail In August you launched the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition This is a project that is personally important to you but how is the collaboration a good fit for Tissot and PRX And how will it be different to other anime edition watches that we have seen SYLVAIN DOLLA: I will always give all the credit for everything at Tissot to the team but if there is one project that I will take a bit of credit for it’s the Grendizer I had difficulties in school because I have dyslexia I had an hour of extra tuition at the end of the day and I made a pact with my teacher that I would be really focused for 55 minutes if she would let me go home five minutes early I would run all the way back and switch on the TV to watch Grendizer It was really my first experience of Japanese manga and I was completely passionate about it I read that a new version was going to be released so I contacted the Go Nogai studio that makes it and they probably thought that the Swiss are completely crazy because the deputy head of products is the same age as me The watch itself is very discreet in its references but the packaging is in the form of a spaceship that people have to build and the outer box is decorated with the original 1975 drawings of Grendizer It won’t be limited – I hate limited editions because they are missed opportunities This special edition watch combines the vintage design of the PRX with the iconic elements of Grendizer glows in the dark with a yellow Super-LumiNova outline of the robot hero You can also see a Harken second hand and a uniquely engraved rotor there is a text in Japanese that reads “UFO ロボ グレンダイザー” It has been a great honour for me to collaborate with the great Go Nogai and the PRX was the perfect opportunity as it seemed natural mixing Swiss craftsmanship and 1970s design with manga pop culture And we see a lot of reinterpretations and vintage models that are on-trend The PRX or the Tissot Telemeter 1938 are examples of that trend The Telemeter 1938 represents some of the first chronographs that Tissot used to enter the sports timekeeping world It is also equipped with the newly upgraded Valjoux A05.231 automatic movement with extended 68-hour power reserve We revive a historical watch every year so yes you can expect to see more in the coming years Last year we saw the 1970s Sideral revisited and again it was a huge success Would you say that it also did a great job of reminding people that Tissot is a pioneer in materials and technology SYLVAIN DOLLA: These watches are good reminders of our history and innovative spirit featuring the iconic yellow rubber strap and its innovative fastening system – signature elements of the Sideral family This model was the world’s first fibreglass watch we were committed to preserving the watch’s heritage and spirit adventure and the excitement of the unknown innovative and resilient nature of fibreglass 60 years ago The brand has chosen its partnerships well with both cycling and basketball becoming huge internationally We will keep strengthening our position in our three major sports of cycling sports have always been a fundamental communication vector for the brand and will continue to be These sports are the perfect platform for demonstrating the brand’s dedication to precision in action Active involvement as Official Timekeeper in all of these sporting events Tour de France and the UCI World Championships brings Tissot closer to fans all over the world on television or taking part in the action by wearing one of the associated special edition watches like the Seastar Wilson WNBA the PR100 Tour de France or the T-Race MotoGP which Tissot is also involved in as Official Timekeeper Tissot was one of the first brands to sponsor both cycling and basketball Both of these are now becoming globally huge SYLVAIN DOLLA: It shows that we were right And good luck to the ones that are following us because I wouldn’t enter a sport where I am going to be number two I am only interested in being first and taking the gold medal if other brands want to sponsor tiny little clubs or have one ambassador then so be it but for me it doesn’t make sense to have one person America and China are our two biggest markets and the two biggest followers of basketball so the NBA is the perfect partnership for us and we will also be the official timekeeper of the NBA Paris game which is the biggest moment of the NBA outside of the US How do you think the brand has changed in that time SYLVAIN DOLLA: Tissot has been on a journey to uplift the brand appeal among younger consumers and the latest collections and campaigns are proof of that the campaigns are edgy and flamboyant with a modern appeal We want to break the conventional codes of the traditional watch industry We have also continued our innovation strategy and reinforced digitalisation with major projects on ecommerce and CRM for example which I would say has been the most notable change over the past few years what works best for Tissot – monobrand boutiques SYLVAIN DOLLA: It is important for us to have a mix Opening a corporate boutique can bring significant benefits to partner retailers by reinforcing the brand image and therefore increasing customer numbers and loyalty They are all strategically placed to answer consumer’s demands The boutique in Paris was one of the first in the world to integrate the brand’s new design that is part of the image uplift These boutiques are the perfect windows for the millions of visitors that pass by each year We want to be able to offer our customers the best experience whether in store or online The corporate stores are also our laboratories to try merchandising tools and decoration be rolled out within our 11,000 points of sale we were one of the first brands in the industry to have invested in an ecommerce platform The crisis just accelerated what we were forecasting and boosted our online platforms we are facing a rough time with international uncertainties we are still seeing a lot of opportunities in emerging markets such as India You are on the board of CSEM (the Swiss Centre for Electronics and Microtechnology that Swatch Group hold shares in) how does this reflect your interest in technology How important is it to combine the traditions of watchmaking with contemporary innovations SYLVAIN DOLLA: I have always had an interest in technology before joining the watch business I was in the telecoms and software industry and then came into watchmaking as head of high tech & access at Swatch It is also what led me to Tissot with one foot in the door working on the T-Touch Connect Solar project Mr Hayek explained to us that we were going to make a connected watch but not like everyone else: we were going to develop our own engine our own intelligence that would stand out from iOS and Android He asked us to develop this new watch with ETA and CSEM and we all worked very hard to be able to launch it We knew it was going to be complicated: developing an OS is a huge undertaking which had certain elements that were missing at ETA including development experience in so-called ‘simple’ quartz watches We brought all these engineers together by introducing new ways of working We recruited specialists in embedded software for connected watches The project was large-scale and exciting and we all learned a lot Tissot and CSEM teams realised the highly strategic nature of the watch and we all realised that this was the project of a lifetime I’ll particularly remember the Swatch Paparazzi and the T-Touch Connect Solar We’re working on the versions of the future and we’re in the process of bringing new skills in-house but we are investing in certain key elements Tissot stands by its tradition of innovation What direction do you see Tissot taking in the next five or 10 years SYLVAIN DOLLA: I think the past few years have shown us that our perspectives about the future could change drastically in just a few days or weeks It has shown us that we can confront the challenges with intelligence The industry’s challenges are already here: technology is evolving fast and we need and will do everything in our power to be at the forefront creating new and exciting experiences and watches that can be allies in people’s day-to-day lives It has been here since 1853 and is still very stable My job is to continue and not to drastically change the brand DNA but to make it evolve to fit today’s world and people I would add that we are very optimistic for the future at Tissot as we have seen a very high level of interest from the new generation below the age of 30 The HODINKEE X Montblanc 1858 Monopusher collaboration was a resounding success and it came with a little something extra: an opportunity for the new owners to travel to Switzerland as guests of HODINKEE and Montblanc to see both of Montblanc's manufacturing centers Montblanc has two separate watchmaking facilities in the canton of the same name; the other is in the town of Villeret Guests had an opportunity to see two different but complementary approaches to watchmaking the approach is very much characteristic of a modern higher-end watch produced by taking full advantage of modern precision manufacturing methods Design and prototyping take place both with the aid of computers but there is also considerable use of much older tools including good old fashioned pencil and paper 3D printing is also used during the design process for much the same reason clay models are used in car design – it's an indispensable step in understanding how the final product is going to look and feel Watchmaking at Le Locle takes place in a facility located below a beautiful mansion originally constructed in the early 1900s which allows the manufacture to host guests and visitors While you might think that Montblanc's Le Locle-made watches are the product of a large there is a surprising amount of fairly painstaking hand-work as well Every watch that leaves the Le Locle facility also has to pass through Montblanc's 500-hour test Setting watch hands in place at the Le Locle manufacture waiting for their turn to pass through the various steps of the 500-hour testing process with the ever-popular shock-testing apparatus guests spent an entire day at the Villeret manufacture Montblanc Minerva carries on watchmaking using the whole traditional repertoire of hand-finishing and hand-assembling movements at executing a range of finishing techniques and executing black polishing and straight-graining They were also given the opportunity to attempt something extremely difficult: pinning a balance spring to the collet of a balance staff Guests also were able to attempt to disassemble and reassemble a Minerva movement from Minerva's large stock of vintage parts.  and includes a fully functional compass in the caseback monopusher chronograph with 24-hour display Perlage being applied by one of the Minerva artisans.  applying finishing by hand is extremely difficult the basic idea is for each circle to overlap the others by exactly the same amount and while the artisan-in-residence does this with amazing speed and dexterity it's impossible to achieve this level of speed and consistency without years of practice Montblanc Minerva makes its own balance springs for its 18,000 vph movements These are individually brought to time by matching the oscillations of a spring fitted to a balance The effective length of the balance spring is manually adjusted until it matches the vibrations of the reference balance Easily the most demanding workshop involved attempting to pin the balance to a collet The collet is at the center of the balance spring and is essentially a metal collar that holds the balance spring onto the balance staff Traditionally it is held in place by threading the innermost curve of the balance spring through a horizontal tunnel in the collet and then securing it in place with a tiny pin It's very unusual nowadays for visits to a manufacture to include such extensive hands-on experiences The climax of the trip was an opportunity for guests to meet with the watchmaker who had assembled their watch (as well as with all the artisans whose skills contributed to the final result) One of the best aspects of really high-end watchmaking is the way each watch connects us with the many hours of work which were necessary in order for an haute horlogerie timepiece to come into existence and this visit to Villeret and Le Locle was an invaluable chance to connect with the hands behind the watch Read more about the Montblanc x HODINKEE 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition, right here. JP EN FR 简体中文 繁體中文 Richer living through mindfulness of the traditional Japanese seasons Discovering a richer life in the traditional seasons of Japan Place × Season × Time=Unforgettable experiencesThrilling experiences born of the right place Discovering the hidden stories in everyday lifeUntold stories from just around the corner in Japan Unique brand stories combining tradition with revolutionRevolutionary traditionalism: Brand stories like no other Interviews with the people of the momentMeetings with the women and men who make Japan tick Weaving a lifestyle from Japanese sensibilities and aestheticsBring the Japanese sense of beauty into your life Online salons led by individual hostsThought-provoking discussion led by fascinating figures Premium Japan Members Takeshi Matsuyama is a pioneer among Japanese watch journalists This is a new series that introduces the watches and people he has encountered The thing that connects people to time is the device called a clock I would like to introduce you to a Japanese watchmaker who is currently drawing my attention the most While many of the latest watches tend to have tricky movements or are overly decorated The design of the movement was inspired by the masterpieces left behind by the Jürgensen family who came from Denmark and set up a watchmaking atelier here The beautifully divided bridges are carefully chamfered using a technique called angling and large ruby ​​hole stones are used to position the gears and balance One of the major features of the Prim Vert is that it has a circular spring that prevents the wound barrel from rotating backwards giving it a lustrous shine that captivates anyone who sees it but instead taught himself how to make watches He eventually went to Switzerland and gained experience meeting various people who helped him gain residency and permission to work as a watchmaker in Switzerland a town in northern Switzerland on the French border and learned about his watchmaking process and why he is so fascinated by Jürgensen-style movements Yosuke Sekiguchi is engrossed in his creative work in his studio Although he respects the elegant style of the movement produced by Geneva's finest fashion houses he declares that he personally prefers the simple and robust style created by Jurgensen and others Jergensen's home country of Denmark is a maritime nation like Japan and perhaps he sees himself in the Jergensen family who left their homeland to forge a history of high-quality watchmaking in the mountainous region of Switzerland Ref.39WG-DBAVWH White Gold Limited to 10 pieces Ref.39RG-BKWH Rose Gold Limited to 5 pieces The first time I met him was when I went to cover the watchmaking workshop of Christophe Claret who was famous for making complicated watches I was surprised to find a Japanese watchmaker working in a workshop that produces some of the world's most complicated watches He then went independent and began to create his own original watches while restoring various complicated watches at a vintage watch shop called "Jubal" located in front of the La Chaux-de-Fonds Watch Museum a musician whom he met when he was a university student and they now enjoy life in Switzerland with their two children "Primvert" is the name of a lovely flower that blooms first when the snow melts in Le Locle only a few people have been able to get their hands on this beautiful watch with its old-fashioned enamel dial he self-studyed and obtained the French national watchmaker qualification (CAP) he joined the Swiss watch movement manufacturer La Joux Perret he moved to the Swiss watch movement manufacturer Christophe Claret he worked as an exclusive watchmaker for Juval Horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds while also undertaking antique repairs for several major watch brands he wrote "Yopparai Returns" with his friends Kazuhiko Kato and Osamu Kitayama of The Folk Crusaders he was involved in the launch of magazines such as "Popeye" and "Brutus" published by Heibonsha (now Magazine House) he has been fascinated by the world of mechanical watches and has been promoting the appeal of watches His many books include "Porridge of Wisdom and Tea of ​​Thought," "Great Japan Doraku Travelogue," and the play series "Chaai" and "Ororoji." This year, you’ll see several very nice watches from Ulysse Nardin, all paying homage to the great heritage of the brand (and believe us, since its inception in 1846, the brand has done A LOT). Recently, UN launched a watch as a tribute to the great Ludwig Oeschlin (a watch that will soon be under our loupe) and now we have something drastically different and quite unexpected from the brand; a vintage-inspired dive watch… Surprising at first but the result While the current Ulysse Nardin catalogue does comprise various dive watches, under the Diver range the idea of such watches in past collections (thinks 1950s 1960s) doesn’t really ring a bell at first everyone know the antique Marine Chronometers (which still greatly inspire the brand and its watches) or the developments of innovative movements Ulysse Nardin is probably not the first brand we think of the Le Locle-based manufacture pays tribute to one of them measuring 38mm in diameter and featuring a unique case shape (especially the lugs) inspiration of the 2017 Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle (source: Analog Shift) The watch that inspired the new edition is certainly identifiable with many of the original elements being incorporated albeit slightly redesigned to meet with current standards / needs / expectations dial and bezel are all inspired by the 1964 model the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle feels like a spot-on reissue especially because Ulysse Nardin has been one of the few brands not to overuse the vintage appeal (a rare enough occurrence that it deserves to be mentioned) we won’t complain about seeing a bit of vintage-appeal The first thing to note is the increased size of the case as this Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle measures 42.2mm (vs a diameter that makes it seem quite large on paper meaning that it wears thinner than it actually is the Diver Le Locle feels quite compact and sits well even on smaller wrists (see photo on a 16.5cm wrist) The originality comes from the shape of the case which give the Diver Le Locle a nice appeal and is water resistant to 100m (enough for 99% of occasions in or around the water) This shape is faithful to the vintage version It is secured to the wrist by a fabric / sailcloth strap with pin buckle the Diver Le Locle isn’t a real tool watch but this choice fits the vintage-reissue idea quite well the dial of the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle plays on the key elements of the vintage version but modernizes them as well as the slightly patinated color of the lume are all tributes to the 1964 model the watch now shows small seconds at 6 (instead of a central second) however the small second hand is still the same glaive shape as in the old days This surprising position of the second hand (at least for a dive watch) is all due to the presence of a modern in-house produced movement: the calibre UN 320 This engine features silicium technology (hairspring escape wheel and pallet fork) and runs at 4Hz Its nice decoration won’t be visible as the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle has a closed back featuring a nice engraving The Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle (ref. 3202-950) is now available (April 2017) and is priced at CHF 9,600. More details on www.ulysse-nardin.com i bought at auction a sixties Uluysse Nardin dive watch that looks just like this it is a very small watch by today’s standards Pay a even less and you get a Seamster 300 Pay A LOT less and you get a Divers Sixty-Five At least you get an “A” for effort looks great but 10Gs even w the really nice movement one cannot see is a stretch I would expect more features defining this piece as a real diver – not because I need it – but because the competitors at that price point offer it Does this clash with the vintage philosophy In the meanwhile one can pick up the Rado Captain Cook limited edition for 1.7K and get far better value How many Oris sixty-fives can I buy for that 10 grand again??? How much does UN charge for an aluminum replacement bezel insert They missed a huge opportunity to sell a boat load of these and put Nardin back on the map by putting in a Sellita and going head to head on price against Tudor’s Black Bay and Breitling’s Heritage Super Ocean After producing the most accurate mechanical watch of 2012 Tissot created this special edition to bring true chronometry to the masses From the very first clocks to the invention of the quartz crystal a preoccupation with producing ever more accurate timepieces dominated the history of watchmaking which is more accurate than any mechanical mechanism Keeping the tradition going though is the COSC chronometer designation a mark of stringent accuracy under duress - and in 2012 Tissot's Le Locle Chronometre was pronounced by the Concours International de Chronometrie to be the most accurate mechanical watch of the year So I guess the first question here is what exactly is a chronometer The short answer is an extremely accurate mechanical timekeeping device - clock But the long answer is much more complicated than that Sketch of Jeremy Thacker's Original Chronometer This answer takes us back to the early eighteenth century where many of watchmaking's greatest stories begin English horologist Jeremy Thacker managed to create a clock completely sealed in a vacuum chamber giving it a new name to celebrate its improved accuracy sealing clocks in vacuum chambers isn't the most practical solution to the accuracy problem in practice Most innovations in timekeeping during this period were driven by the search for more accurate navigational tools John Harrison invented the marine chronometer sometime around 1730 which was the first clock accurate enough to ensure proper calculations of longitude during extended sea voyages This was absolutely necessary for an empire like Britain and it has been argued more than once that without such an invention the empire would not have been able to sustain itself for so long Setting aside these historical antecedents though chronometers these days are mechanical watches that meet certain standards of accuracy under simulated wear conditions Within Switzerland there is COSC (Controle Officiel Suisse Des Chronometres) which must certify any timepiece bearing the word "chronometre" on it anywhere - only about 3% of all Swiss watches receive the certification This protects the term's technical meaning and keeps it out of the hands of the marketing departments Elsewhere the term is less tightly guarded though generally it represents some amount of increased accuracy testing a rarity as most of these early contest movements were intellectual exercises and not commercially available Though most of these competitions died out during the quartz crisis when mechanical accuracy became something of a lost priority there is still the annual Concours International de Chronometrie Watches are placed in various categories and then judged against one another in a quest for modern mechanical accuracy with even amazingly made watches often scoring only 300 to 400 points Multiple COSC-style tests are completed on each watch with exposure to magnetic fields and physical impacts introduced at intervals to disrupt delicate movements The Tissot Le Locle Chronometre won last year's classic watches competition with a whopping 764 points proving that accuracy is a game entirely separate from the other concerns of fine watchmaking For more on chronometer certification and competitions, please visit the official COSC website and (if you speak French) the CIdC's website A Closer Look At The Le Locle Chronometer's Dial Tissot released this commemorative Le Locle Chronometre The case is stainless steel with rose gold PVD coating Rose gold and dark grey have been a popular combination in the watch world the past year or so The guilloché pattern in the center of the dial is a nice addition but while the silvered date at 3 o'clock is bright and easy to read at a glance it's not the most aesthetically pleasing part of the Le Locle Chronometre A Closer Look At The Le Locle Chronometre's Dial there is little to no finishing on this movement but the split windows makes it difficult to get a comprehensive look at the movement but one that doesn't necessarily work for me The Le Locle Chronometre's Split Display Back it's what's inside this watch that you should be interested in it's not a good looking dial and a well-finished case that win you a COSC certification Now this is going to surprise you: powering the Le Locle Chronometre is a modified ETA 2824-2 movement an ETA movement beat out those from some of the world's most prestigious brands Because Tissot is part of the Swatch Group this can be considered an "in-house" movement of sorts for the brand Whatever your thoughts are on manufacture verses ebauche movements you can't fight results and this just goes to show that sometimes the best functioning machine might not be the most glamorous machine reliably ticking away in watches from almost every manufacturer you can think of And in this watch the 2824-2 was enough to bring home the gold The Le Locle Chronometre Is Extremely Easy To Wear so by this point you probably get the idea - this watch is extremely accurate for a mechanical timepiece even if it might not be the most haute horological creation you've ever seen To get a full sense of what this watch is like I took it for a spin over the course of a normal work week the case does a nice job straddling the classic/modern line It's not so small that it must be worn with a suit nor is it so big as to push the dress watch category boundaries This is definitely a watch you can wear in a variety of settings without raising an eyebrow The Le Locle Chronometre Wears Nice And Low To The Wrist Setting the watch offers a nice reminder of the Le Locle Chronometre's focus on accuracy - the seconds hack so you can set the Le Locle Chronometre precisely to the second pull the crown out only one click and you can quick-set the date display a convenience that is easy to take for granted until you wear a watch without this ability the crown clicks in tightly and the Le Locle Chronometre is rated water resistant to 100ft or 30m The case is nicely contoured and the Le Locle Chronometre sits low and tight to the wrist It's definitely the sort of watch you find yourself forgetting you're wearing as it is so comfortable An adjustable deployant clasp (again rose gold PVD over stainless steel) holds the crocodile embossed leather strap closed tightly and I didn't experience any problems with the deployant popping open throughout the day the Le Locle Chronometre is an interesting watch at a very reasonable price COSC-certified chronometre that has been thoughtfully and elegantly designed It's obviously not interesting in the way that a piece of highly avant-garde haute horology is interesting but nonetheless it participates in one of the most important traditions in the history of watchmaking There is nothing pretentious about the Le Locle Chronometre and it doesn't pretend to be anything it is not It is an extremely accurate chronometer from a brand that produces reliable versatile watches that are accessible to a larger portion of the population than some of the other brands covered here on HODINKEE If you're interested in the rich history of mechanical timekeeping and want a watch that will serve you well all without costing the same as a small car the Le Locle Chronometre is a perfect choice You can find more on the Le Locle Chronometre directly on Tissot's website Tissot first unveiled the Le Locle Automatic Regulateur back in March at Baselworld but the three new watches are just now hitting stores The Regulateur is a new addition to the Le Locle collection (aptly named for Tissot's home town) and the design is based on 18th and 19th century regulator clocks used by watchmakers to keep more accurate time The new Tissot Regulateur features two subsidiary dials one for the hours (at 12 o'clock) and one for the running seconds (at 6 o'clock) The minutes are shown by the big hand on the main dial The 39.3mm watch comes in three variations: stainless steel with silvered dial and a matching bracelet two-tone PVD-coated stainless steel and yellow gold with a silvered dial and two-tone bracelet and stainless steel with a black dial and leather strap All three are powered by an ETA 2825.2 automatic movement which was initially used in both the Le Locle Petit Seconds and the Couturier Automatic These featured off-center subsidiary seconds allowing for the indicators to be moved around the dial this makes it a great choice for building a regulator the movement is exposed by the specially-shaped sapphire caseback that Tissot is known for but it's a fair compromise for keeping the watch under $1,000 The Le Locle Regulateur retails for $795 for the steel case and leather strap, $850 for the stainless steel with bracelet, and $950 for the two-tone edition. For more information, visit Tissot's online boutique All the watches you need to know about, delivered to your inbox daily. The Manufacture houses all the programmes necessary for the manufacture of the most complicated watch movements: research and development, machining, decoration, assembly and administration. These work areas all meet the most demanding requirements of industrialisation and fine watchmaking. They are arranged on the hillside in such a way as to maintain multiple links with its topography, its views and the light necessary for the various watchmaking activities. © Nicolas DelarocheFuture of Work and Industry - The Manufacture is designed as a tool perfectly adapted to the contemporary needs of Fine Watchmaking, and flexible enough to adapt to future industrial changes. The knowledge silos are open to allow co-creation. The industrial platforms are each oriented according to their own needs in terms of natural light, and are all on the same large, continuous level, allowing for easy exchange of parts and movements between the different workshops. the Manufacture was designed to receive customers and partners Its visitor flow has been organised and optimised to offer customers a unique experience in which they are successively immersed in the geography of the region The architecture thus allows them to discover the work of the watchmakers in an immersive way and to discover a world that is often kept secret You'll now receive updates based on what you follow Personalize your stream and start following your favorite authors If you have done all of this and still can't find the email Are an in-house movement with silicon parts and nice vintage looks enough to make this $10,000 dive watch a competitor and generally the first thing you think of is the Freak is the fact that Ulysse Nardin was the very first company to introduce a watch with silicon components and since the Freak debuted nearly 20 years ago UN has been introducing silicon components in a wider and wider range of watches The in-house caliber UN-320 uses a silicon lever and escape wheel – both in a proprietary configuration – as well as a silicon balance spring which was shown to us under embargo at the SIHH in January represents the first use by Ulysse Nardin of its in-house UN-320 caliber in a diver's watch Ulysse Nardin says that the design is based on a diver's watch made by UN in 1964 and this certainly looks like a classic mid-20th century diver's watch – right down to the segmented minute hand although some of the design decisions have a bit more of a postmodern flavor and the use of a running seconds sub-dial rather than a center second The use of the latter is likely dictated by the layout of the UN-320 caliber which is set up as a seconds sub-dial movement The use of a seconds subdial is also consistent with the rest of Ulysse Nardin's dive watch collection which uses this configuration across the entire family of watches This is by far the most straightforward dive watch Ulysse Nardin currently offers with the unidirectional bezel required by ISO 6425 it's going to be basically immune to the effects of any magnetic fields you're likely to encounter outside a medical or lab setting which is a nice feature to find in any tool watch The stainless steel case is 42.2mm in diameter with an engraving on the back of a spear-fishing diver wearing an old-fashioned looking double tank open-circuit scuba set – along with the requisite cloud of bubbles characteristic of open circuit regulators a watch brand will get a bit of grief for fielding a quote dive watch unquote but it does bear mentioning that this is the minimum depth rating required by ISO 6425 and that recreational scuba diving generally happens at much shallower depths (30-40 meters max) so 100 meters is more than enough for all practical purposes if all that mattered in dive watches was "practical" there would a) be far fewer dive watches sold because 99% of us who buy them are never going to dive with them and b) certainly far fewer dive watches would be sold with depth ratings that make them capable of tolerating pressures that would implode a military sub's pressure hull It doesn't make a particle of difference in real terms whether a dive watch is 100m rated or 200m rated but there's no doubt that 200m is a bit of a better look So here's the problem: this is a $9,600 watch the under-$10,000 segment in dive watches is one of the most densely saturated product categories I can think of and consumers are absolutely spoiled for choice a no-date Rolex Submariner on a bracelet – an excellent bracelet on a watch with an in-house movement and in-house balance spring – is a $7,500 watch is cooler looking than James Dean in a leather jacket on a Saturday night So is this watch going to struggle to stand out from its competitors in what's already the single most crowded category in watchmaking Is there a case to be made for it as a viable option but I think won't hurt if you're a Ulysse Nardin fan and if the greater resistance to magnetic fields and general technical qualities of the movement appeal to you That this is a silicon-component dive watch – balance spring and escape wheel – should be taken into consideration as well; right now few dive watches in this price range have that specific feature set lists for $6,600; the Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks is $39,295 but one with a lot of very tough competition The Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle: 42.2mm case, with caliber UN-320 manufacture movement; silicon escapement and balance spring with 48-hour power reserve. 100m water resistant, with sapphire crystal; sailcloth bracelet with tang buckle. Available in May. See the Ulysse Nardin diver collection at ulysse-nardin.com. ShareSaveLifestyleLuxuryThe Tissot Le Locle Chronometer Edition: The World's Most Interesting Watch?ByJack Forster Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights If it's troublesome and annoyingly expensive 10:48am EDTShareSaveThis article is more than 10 years old.A wise man once wrote that watch owners always have two questions in mind about their watches: is it worth it; and  He went on to say that the answer to the first question is always "no" and the answer to the second is always "that depends."  Mechanical watches have gone through an enormous sea change since quartz watches first hit stores in the shape of Seiko's Astron (the first quartz watch) in December of 1969 and the biggest was accuracy as a selling point  Quartz and radio controlled quartz watches have made the whole idea of a highly accurate mechanical watch a moot point but someone who goes out of their way to buy a watch that's powered by a mainspring and needs a cleaning every five years is also buying the idea of good old fashioned mechanical precision mechanical watchmaking --which after 1969 gradually redefined itself as a luxury level product (mostly) in order to survive including the use of high tech silicon components the resurrection of deliciously obscure complications like the tourbillon and the remontoire d'egalité and the use of fast-beat escapements (all of the above conveying little or nothing to most watch buyers despite the best efforts of the companies that make them to explain their alleged benefits.)  The pursuit of greater accuracy in mechanical watches is the subject of thousands of hours of research and countless sessions of hair-pulling on the part of watch companies looking to differentiate themselves from the competition Which makes this watch rather an interesting one Cower, brief mortals, before the watch that won first place in the world's only juried accuracy competition: the Concours International de Chronometrie which out of seven entrants in the "Classic Watches" category won handily with a score of 764 points out of a possible 1000 the runner up in the category was a watch from ultra-high-end boutique watchmaker F which came in quite far behind with a total of 488 points The movement inside the Le Locle Chronometer is certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronométres) as a chronometer according to the international standard ISO 3159, and it is far from anything most watch insiders would get excited about: it's an ETA (that is, Swatch Group made) calibre 2824-2  The movement's been around for decades and it's an industry workhorse found in many hundreds of thousands of watches made by dozens of brands  And yet it won first place in the only international accuracy competition in the world (well not entirely international --Far Eastern manufacturers like Seiko were not allowed to enter.) then (and one we'll look at in upcoming weeks) is this: what  Some of you probably have ideas of your own it's a rather fascinating point of information in the clutter of rhetoric that surrounds mechanical watches these days that for a pretty manageable $1295 you can have a watch from a name-brand Swiss watchmaking firm that took first prize in the only juried competition that actually pits watch vs and if I may say so classic dress watch good looks make this watch something we can think of not only as an interesting intuition pump for what exactly it is that gets us excited about mechanical watches --we can also think of it as a bargain By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy Dubbed Le Monde Étoilé in reference to the starry night sky that inspired Zenith’s founder the Manufacture sought to bring this unique interactive experience across the world in its “A Star Through Time” traveling exhibition the exhibition is coming to Japan from November 19 to 23 taking place at the Jewels of Aoyama shopping complex in one of Tokyo’s hippest and most upscale shopping neighborhoods Zenith became the first watch manufacture to partner with the Neuchâtel Tourism Office to offer an unforgettable experience for those visiting the cradle of Swiss watchmaking and wishing to learn more about what goes into making a true Swiss manufacture watch Working with forward-thinking scenographers and using cutting-edge multisensory presentation techniques the Manufacture was able to create a unique 360° experience for visitors to witness the inner workings of a fully-fledged watchmaking manufacture A Star Through Time consists of five immersive spaces that tell the story of Zenith and its numerous personalities and accomplishments that forever changed the landscape of Swiss watchmaking Visitors can embark on a visual tour of the town of Le Locle Zenith brand ambassador and actor Ryoma Takeuchi will narrate the virtual guided tour of the town regarded as the birthplace of the vertical Swiss watchmaking manufacture and cherished as a UNESCO World Heritage Site Zenith worked with local artist Maaya Wakasugi who blends traditional Japanese calligraphy with his own contemporary touch to tell the tales of “Zenith Heroes" through a series of original drawings and illustrations They recount the stories of the great visionaries who chose to wear Zenith watches during decisive moments that changed the course of history The exhibition also features a digital space with a 360-degree movie that recreates the secret walled-off attic where Charles Vermot famously hid the tools and plans used to make the El Primero movement Visitors can explore and take photos in the recreated attic in 3D An all-new segment has been added to the exhibition which traces the origins of the Chronomaster Sport and history of the El Primero with a retrospective on some of the most important historical Zenith chronographs of the past 50 years that continue to inspire the Chronomaster line The exhibition A Star Through Time will feature not only the latest interactive exhibits including a ladies' talk show hosted by Zenith Friend of the Brand and media personality Airi Hatakeyama a Watch Clinic on weekends and a panel discussion hosted by Kaname Murakami The entire pop-up exhibition can also be discovered in the form of a virtual tour directly on the Zenith website: https://www.zenith-watches.com/int/livetour/tokyo Zenith fans and watch-lovers in Japan can now look forward to a new source of exclusive content as the Manufacture is launching its presence on “Line” the most popular social media platform in the country Zenith exists to inspire individuals to pursue their dreams and make them come true – against all odds Zenith became the first watch manufacture in the modern sense of the term and its watches have accompanied extraordinary figures that dreamt big and strived to achieve the impossible – from Louis Blériot’s history-making flight across the English Channel to Felix Baumgartner’s record-setting stratospheric free-fall jump Zenith is also highlighting visionary and trailblazing women – past and present – by celebrating their accomplishments and creating the DREAMHERS platform where women share their experiences and inspire others to fulfill their dreams Zenith exclusively uses its own in-house developed and manufactured movements across all of its watches Since the creation of the El Primero in 1969 the world’s first automatic chronograph calibre Zenith has gone on to master the complication with even more precision capable of measurements to the closest 1/10th of a second in the most recent Chronomaster lines and 1/100th of a second in the DEFY collection Zenith has been shaping the future of Swiss watchmaking since 1865 accompanying those who dare to challenge themselves and break barriers Your invitation has been successfully sent Please search for a friend to connect first Connecting decision makers to a dynamic network of information Bloomberg quickly and accurately delivers business and financial information The Zenith production facility and headquarters in Le Locle Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker Professional Watches in the Jura Mountains on the northwestmost border with France (in the Canton of Neuchâtel) — Tudor has a new state-of-the-art manufacture This is the first industrial facility dedicated to Tudor — and every watch is now assembled and tested in Le Locle including some models that meet the rigorous Master Chronometer requirements While the construction (which took three years to complete) was finished in 2021 — the factory was not officially inaugurated until March 2023 hence the reason for referring to it as new The objective of moving the assembly operations of Montres Tudor SA from Geneva was to be closer to its affiliates and suppliers in the Jura Mountains The company owned undeveloped industrial land in Le Lecole next to a Rolex facility (that’s been there since 1970) making it an ideal site for the new factory has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 2009 and like Biel/Bienne (which also has a Rolex facility) — is a major watchmaking hub the manufacture spans over five levels totaling 5,500 square meters (59,200 square feet) and is physically and visually connected to the neighboring Kenissi Manufacture (silver) With Kenissi and a network of Tudor-owned affiliates the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibers Tudor now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality,’ according to Tudor “Many of Tudors’s watches feature a manufacture caliber which is developed and assembled at Kenissi Everything from research and development to final assembly takes place here for Tudor’s manufacture calibers Kenissi was created in 2010 to develop its industrial production capacity for high-performance mechanical movements the brand brought together a group of experts and presented an initial caliber at Baselworld in 2015 The first client of Kenissi besides Tudor itself was Breitling Kenissi formed an industrial alliance with Chanel in 2018 “The Kenissi production line exemplifies Tudor’s commitment to leveraging the power of combining the most advanced tech with the expertise of human hand the mainplate is mounted on an insert of appropriate diameter embedded with an RFID-TAG The inserts are put on a shuttle device and enter the assembly line at the first workstation The RFID-Tag guarantees the correct routing of the soon-to-be caliber This tech assures the full traceability of the caliber and collects all the assembly data in order to improve product quality and assembly processes through big data analysis After having passed a first fully automated test cycle on the assembly line the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute Then it’s off to Tudor to find a home in a watch.” There’s a team of 150 working at the Tudor manufacture and the company states that the factory uses a “unique blend of automated production technology with the technical know-how of highly skilled watchmakers.” Like most high-tech Swiss watchmaking facilities a constant positive pressure environment is maintained throughout the workshop In order to mitigate the opportunity for dust ingress into watches and machinery The system creates a continuous flow of air from the ceiling to the floor so that dust is kept from floating around the workshop Tudor does not maintain a stock of assembled watches Each watch is closely tracked and the data is used to improve efficiency “Watchmakers must master every assembly operation through cross-training TUDOR achieves this through autonomous cells of four watchmakers that are trained in every discipline of the process from its machinery to the contents and organization of its drawers This is meant to provide a homogenous and ergonomic work environment The team members of a cell always work together They train with their cell before being fully operational to create team spirit and improve efficiency each team member is capable of assembling any reference in the Tudor collection One cell covers the 3 following operations All Tudor watches with a manufacture caliber are tested to a rate of -2/+4 seconds per day fully assembled (-4/+6) for outsourced calibers all watches are tested for waterproofness in hyperbaric water tanks Some models in the Tudor range meet the even higher METAS standard every TUDOR watch will be Master Chronometer-certified by METAS “METAS’ Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5) that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4) which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss it also guarantees that the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standards It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).” Human hands are involved in the production of Tudor timepieces though it’s clear that the facility is highly automated and relatively accessible prices on Tudor watches and the same for the watch brands that use Kenissi movements Learn more at Tudor Jason is a writer and photographer who founded Professional Watches to share his passion for watches Zenith is drawing attention to the recent opening of a retail boutique within its factory and headquarters facility in Le Locle with the promotion of three additions to its Icons family of vintage watches authenticated and fully restored by the company’s Heritage Department They will be on sale at the Le Locle boutique but also online at Zenith’s estore in the USA The three models are among the earliest examples of “Mark I” El Primero models from 1969 the birth year of Zenith’s automatic chronograph calibre Part of the very first Zenith references intended to house the El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre the G581 was ordered into production shortly after the movement’s launch in January 1969 the slim watch has the “panda” configuration of sub dials with golden applied markers the G581 is considered one of the rarest and most coveted pieces of El Primero lore the G582 has a golden dial with black counters and introduced features what would become signatures of the Zenith El Primero models including the date window at 4:30 the luminescent filled indexes and the red paddle-shaped chronograph second hand This “Mark I” example is from the very first production batch in 1969 Arguably the most significant of all the early El Primero stainless steel models the A386 from 1969 set the tone of the design language that continues to influence Zenith to this day the bezel-less round case and the pump-style pushers all made their El Primero debut in the A386 What makes this particular example even more rare is that it was among the very first production batch of the model which featured slightly different seamless lugs and a flat case back Your weekly edition of hottest watches from around the web We’re back this week with another knockout of a roundup complete with picks both familiar and otherwise At the more conventional end of the spectrum there's a Rolex Datejust but not any old Datejust – this one has a striking along with an Omega pocket watch produced for a Peruvian motoring club Should you be after something of truly epic proportions give the Peseux 260-powered school watch a look along with the sharpest Tudor Advisor that you ever did see institutions devoted to the training of watchmakers haven’t changed their curriculums all that much seeing as the basics of horology remain true and relevant to this day One tradition that's still in practice is the development of school watches which students assemble to demonstrate their abilities and earn recognition as watchmakers but some are undeniably more exciting than others a proper Swiss timepiece fitting this description was brought to my attention and once you've read what I’m about to divulge you'll surely understand its inclusion in this week's roundup This school watch can be traced back to Technicum Neuchâteloise Le Locle which was founded following a merger of schools in 1933 It's likely that this piece would've been produced during the 1950s as a result of the presence of a competition grade Peseux Cal which you'll find beneath the stainless steel caseback of this piece Examples of the caliber were produced for the express purpose of observatory trial competition use serving as a base which several manufactures chose to modify for their entries with perfect proportions and an optimal balance of concealing bridges to exposed components Though some examples were finished to higher standards than others the caliber's design is beautiful even in its most spartan forms Most would be compelled by its origins and mechanics alone, but for the truly insatiable, get this - the case which houses the dial, hands, and caliber is identical to that of the important Breguet No. 1134, which last sold publicly at Christie’s in 2007 and take a closer look at the unique lug design found seen on the two Their bezels do appear to be ever so slightly different though I'd be willing to bet the same case manufacturer supplied Breguet and the Technicum Mimandcroket of Barcelona has this piece of watchmaking education history currently listed on their website with an asking price of €16,000. Click here for the full scoop Triple register chronographs fitted with black dials are a dime a dozen but few make a mark on horological history Those that defy the odds are often associated with notable figures or historical events Made famous by the Formula One legend Jim Clark this Valjoux 72-powered timepiece is one of a handful of chronographs from non major brands that's outlived its initial bout of hype-driven popularity in recent years This goes to show that the market is always kind to conventionally styled pieces powered by important calibers with ties to pop culture and historical significance As evidenced by the Gallet signature found beneath the twelve o'clock marker this is a later example of the celebrated chronograph The first examples feature the brand name printed in smaller the dial is branded with a larger albeit similarly uniform typeface While earlier executions will always hold a special place in the minds of collectors like myself I've long appreciated the whimsical watch hand graphic as seen within the "G" of Gallet These are the sorts of dweeby details that make this game of hyper focus and consideration so fascinating it does look to have aged well with the passing of time Though the luminous applications aren't exactly catalogue perfect this speaks to their originality and the untouched nature of the example the watch is currently fitted on an Omega No which the seller has described simply as "not original." If you’ve got a Speedmaster in need of sprucing up and also fancy another black dial chronograph kill two birds with one stone by placing a bid An eBay seller in San Bruno, California is offering this Gallet in a sale that’s ending on Sunday afternoon. At the time of publishing, bidding is still at the starting bid of $3500. You know what to do to make it yours and you out yourself as the watch obsessed individual in the room who's constantly hitting pause when someone's wrist enters the frame That was me while making my way through Master of None with far too many dealer listing tabs for onyx dial Day Dates open on another screen I did focus back on the show itself after satisfying the hunch putting an end to the mildly concerning bout of compulsive behaviour but I’d be lying if I said my interest in the watch has since lessened the main aesthetic appeal of most stone dial Day Dates is the absence of any markings aside from the Rolex coronet and usual dial text sterile look allows you to really focus in on the beauty of the semi-precious stone and design as a whole which arguably takes this concept to the next level Although you do lose some functionality without an aperture indicating the day making for an even more pure appearance on the wrist I still keep my eyes out for examples of note I knew it had a place in the column this week condition and originality is the name of the game when looking to acquire a stone dial Datejust Gold watches with black dials are a uniquely badass look This desirably configured Datejust is being offered by the Parisian dealer Harbor Watches, and will run you €17,900. Additional photos can be found on their site From the moment I became interested in watches to this very day chiming mechanisms have always been of extreme interest to me the cost of entry into the realm of minute and quarter repeaters has never been awfully accessible making them exist in grail territory for most alarm-equipped timepieces can still be had for relative deals and if you're alright with substituting a vibrating buzz for a tuned chime  there's a lot of great watches to be collected and if an alarm watch is next on your hit list This is the very first reference in the lineage of Tudor Advisors which began back in 1957 as the brand's answer to Vulcain's Cricket and the Memovox from Jaeger LeCoultre As the lack of an applied rose logo would suggest this example would've been in the manufactured later in the 1960s the crowns you see fitted on the watch are not replacements Unsigned crowns are a signature trait of the Ref making it one of the more curious references in Tudor’s back catalogue and you’ve got quite the unconventional Oyster Apart from being a watch that you just don't encounter on the daily this particular example is noteworthy thanks to its condition and while some dealers would be eager to describe such a piece as "new old stock," I'm a bit less cavalier with the term Every luminous application has aged gracefully which complements the dial's silver sunburst finish considerably You’ll find this Tudor on eBay, where a seller based out of Milford, Massachusetts has it listed in an auction that’ll come to a close on Sunday evening. As of Friday morning, it’s already achieved $1225 in bids. Should you wish to get in on the action, click here Many new collectors are quick to deem Omega as the brand that made the watch that went to the moon but to only acknowledge this single achievement is to ignore a rich and important history you’ll know that Omega's reputation goes far beyond its association with the moon mission the watchmaker has been supplying important sporting events with advanced timekeepers Though things have since become decidedly more advanced those that came before the current crop are still seriously impressive 1130-powered pocket watch which the brand would’ve produced back in the 1950s Part of what makes this Lemania caliber so special is its massive 24 lignes presence which leaves every last component easily identifiable it’s really a sight to see these in action as you’ll begin to understand the function of each component This is an attractive example for a number of reasons but the most obvious one would be the presence of the original protective case It not only protects the stopwatch from the elements but makes use of the mechanism more precise one can only access the chronograph pusher alone Less obvious but perhaps even more powerful is the second dial signature which reads "A.C.P.," linking the watch to the Automóvil Club Peruano and confirming it to have originally been intended for motorsport timing purposes Pair that with a stunning Bauhaus style typeface and a sine wave-esque pattern which traces the outer track Artcurial is offering this Omega in a sale of racing, flying, and yachting curiosities in honour of the Paris Rétromobile show. Its estimate has been set at €500 — €800, and where it ends up is anyone’s guess. Click here to check it out I wanted to make mention of a watch that might appear legitimate to most While this might look like a top tier gilt dial Submariner it’s actually a chop shop concoction of fake and incorrect parts The icing on the cake is the overly faded and fake bezel insert which is often a good indication that things aren’t as they might seem the fake vintage Rolex crowd loves a ghost insert The watch is being offered in an Atlanta auction on the first of February with an estimate of $18,000 — $22,000. Just say no It's all about having the right tool for the job Watch collector and celebrity chef Alton Brown was fond of saying there was no place for "mono-taskers" in his lineup of kitchen tools Generally speaking this is an excellent principle although every profession has its specialist tools that are intended It's always seemed to me to be particularly true of watchmaking where trying to use a general purpose tool for certain tasks is asking for trouble up to and including broken parts and a damaged watch Tweezers and screwdrivers are probably the least special-purpose watchmaking tools and even here there's not a lot of room for departure from precision; a screwdriver that's the wrong size for a given screw head is more apt to give you a scratched plate or bridge than a properly tightened or loosened screw and as for trying to remove hands with tweezers instead of a hand-removing tool hope you like scratches on your watch dials On a recent trip to see Montblanc's watchmaking facilities in Villeret and Le Locle (the home of the Minerva manufacture) I was struck once again by just how many specific tools exist in watchmaking – and how often it's absolutely indispensable for watchmaking to use the right tool for the job Montblanc's design and prototyping facilities are located in Le Locle in a building just a five minute walk from the extremely picturesque (and much more frequently photographed) 1906 Art Nouveau villa that houses the watchmaking facilities in a sort of ghostly way: a 3D-printed version of the Montblanc caliber 16.29 which in turn is based on the vintage Minerva caliber 17.29; the 16.29 is one of the most drop-dead gorgeous pieces of horological eye-candy in existence right now but making prototype models is still very much a part of the design process as you get a sense of the tactile qualities and proportions of the watch that you can't really get from a software model A 3D printer is a bit of an exception to my opening thesis (that watchmaking is full of indispensable mono-taskers) but they are rapidly becoming ubiquitous in the industry for everything from relatively large group brands like Montblanc to small independents – certainly they're a tool that the folks who designed the original Minerva caliber 17.29 would never have dreamed possible Montblanc Le Locle; the villa was acquired by Montblanc in 1997 The interior of the watchmaking facility in Le Locle The villa in Le Locle has landmark status (both Le Locle and nearby La Chaux-de-Fonds are UNESCO World Heritage Sites thanks to their Art Deco architecture) which means that the villa itself can't be touched; Montblanc solved the space problem by inserting the assembly facilities underneath the original villa's foundation because of the importance of Montblanc to the Richemont Group that its watches are part of some impersonal but the Le Locle assembly facility is surprisingly modest Putting watch hands in place is one of those critical tasks most of us don't think about all that much – it doesn't seem particularly glamorous and it's not widely appreciated that the job has to be done right or you can have a whole host of most annoying problems Watch hands are held on by nothing more than friction so it takes a bit of care and even finesse to do the job right Poor hand placement can produce issues such as chronograph hands slipping on their posts and becoming misaligned; hands simply falling off if the watch gets a knock; and more subtly a watch actually stopping because the hands are binding against each other The procedure is to first fix the dial in place and then place the hands before casing the movement You have to be quite careful not to mar the dial; the lady in the picture above is using a manual press that exerts varying pressures to fix the hands in place sometimes more elaborate versions of this tool are used as well Placing the hands on a Montblanc Timewalker Chronograph UTC The hands are placed in individual fitted receptacles This particular machine is used only for watches with a relatively large number of hands and which are made in large enough numbers to justify the cost of the machine It works in a fairly straightforward fashion and secured onto their respective posts on the dial of the watch This tool allows the watch hands to be placed accurately and fairly quickly; the main manual operations are placing the hands in their receptacles and then operating the individual presses that put the hands in place Each watch still has to be individually inspected in order to make sure the hands are at the correct height and that they don't risk fouling either other or rubbing against the underside of the crystal or surface of the dial Watch hands as delivered for dial assembly The inspection process includes rotating the hands through a full circle in order to ensure clearances are correct Not only is the hand-setting machine a real mono-tasker and all this contributes to making it an expensive tool as it helps guarantee both precision and consistency in this critical stage of the watch assembly process as seen from today's facilities across the road; the workshop is now a private home A short drive from Le Locle is the town of Villeret The company that would eventually become Minerva was founded by Charles and Hyppolite Robert in 1858 and started out as an établisseur – a company that receives parts from specialist workshops The network of suppliers in the region in and around Villeret was extremely dense; in the late 1800s there were over a hundred different specialized "segments" including the making of pinions and on and on – virtually every component was made by a different craftsman and the bulk of the work was done in private homes Gradually production became more centralized in larger factories the Robert family decided to turn the company – now called Robert Frères – in the direction of becoming an integrated manufacture There were a number of brands introduced by Robert Frères in the 1910s and '20s several of which were inspired by Roman mythology and one of these was Minerva (the Roman version of the Greek goddess Athena In 1923 the name of the company became Fabrique d'Horlogerie Minerva Minerva began making some very sophisticated chronograph movements including a rattrapante chronograph in 1924 The founding family sold the firm to their èbauche manager gradually took on greater and greater management responsibilities in 1989 Jean-Jacques Frey took complete control of the company The family sold the firm to an Italian investor in 2000 Minerva was acquired by the Richemont Group and was renamed Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie In the process Montblanc also acquired Minerva's library of movements which included the famous column wheel chronograph caliber caliber 16.29 (the first two digits are the movement size in lignes; the second is the original registration number for the movement in Minerva's records) A great many of the machine and hand tools that Minerva used over its very long history are still present and in some cases in at least semi-regular use Stamping machines and dies for the production of movement parts These two stamping machines were made in 1940 and could be used to stamp out a wide variety of parts from brass sheet metal (they seem to have mostly They aren't hydraulic presses; instead motive power for the stamping operation appears to come from the gigantic flywheels that form the slightly menacing If I'm reading the manufacturer's plate correctly the pressure generated looks to have been an impressive 55,000 kilograms There is also an impressively varied collection of dies and these machines are kept in running order and even used occasionally if parts need to be stamped out for watches that have come in for restoration The modern descendant of this stamping machine is the CNC machine and CNC machines basically work by directing a cutting head through an X and a Y axis By the time the stamping machines you see above had been made the first punched-tape milling machines had already been produced and today the entire watch industry absolutely relies on them or Japan – pretty much the first floor of any watch company is going to have CNC machines (and their brother daemons would rather not think about but I have always felt the CNC machine has a certain fascination all its own The trend in watchmaking for at least the last 200 years has been away from hand-production of basic components – not hand-finishing which is a different story – and for very good reason The ability to series-produce components of repeatable uniformity and precision is absolutely indispensable; methods in the watch industry in the USA were adopted from gun manufacturing at the armories at Springfield (another business where interchangeable parts are essential; it's impossible to have a standing professional modern army if everyone's rifle is a one-off work of art) Even independent watchmakers like Roger Smith rely on them (as he discussed with us in an interview in 2015) simply because the available precision is so good and one with a lot of craft invested in it but the CNC machine is still the bedrock of modern watchmaking and without it mechanical horology as we know it today would not exist Probably asking watch enthusiasts to actually love the CNC machine is too much (should we start selling "Have You Hugged A CNC Machine Today?" t-shirts?) but I think they and the technicians and programmers who keep them running and tell them what to do can and should be respected for their essential role CNC machine at Montblanc Minerva in Villeret.  The control panel and display showing the coordinates for the current milling operation I actually spent some time staring at the control panel for this one (odd behavior I'm a watch writer) and noticed something I'd never noticed before which is that you can read off the coordinates for each pass of the cutting head from the monitor as the machine does its thing and the repeatability of operations of which it's capable do mean that the CNC machine has a unique role in keeping modern watchmaking alive Very much more on the traditional and artisanal side of things is this tool which is for polishing the fork of the lever The fork is at the other end of the lever from the ruby pallets which interact with the escape wheel teeth and the opening of the fork receives the impulse ruby on the balance staff in order to pass energy on to the escapement This is the only direct point of contact between the balance and the rest of the going train and as such it needs to be as perfectly and precisely finished as possible it will transmit energy to the balance more efficiently and it will also allow the balance to unlock the pallets from the escape wheel with as little energy loss as possible in the aperture in the plate facing the polishing wheel The two steel plates you see above are for bending a single steel part for the movement of the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 1000 In order to ensure consistency in the angle The part itself fits into the lower plate and the upper is put into place and held there with two steel pins that fit through the large holes on the right and left sides You then take a brass chisel-tipped rod and press the steel part to create the appropriate angle Vibrating a balance spring by hand at Montblanc Minerva Here's another tool that in traditional watchmaking was absolutely essential and which is also a classic mono-tasker: it does one thing This tool is used to let a watchmaker determine the correct active length of a balance spring once it's attached to a balance – in other words make sure the active length of the balance spring is such that the balance is beating at exactly the correct frequency for a number of movements at Montblanc/Minerva in Villeret the process of assembling and vibrating a balance and spring is done with quite excruciatingly difficult traditional methods; they still pin balance springs to the collet (the part of the balance staff to which the innermost coil of the spring is attached) the old fashioned way (pretty much every modern movement either laser spot-welds them on Balance spring and balance staff components; from lower left impulse roller (whose ruby receives impulse from the escapement lever) and center pin for pinning the innermost spring coil to the collet Balance spring pinned to the collet; the pin is trimmed and the collet friction-fitted to the balance staff Very much the old fashioned way to do things The way the balance spring vibrating tool works is pretty straightforward which beats at a verified 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour The spring and balance assembly you want to time is placed above it and you start the reference balance swinging by pushing the lever at 6:00 to the left You then start the balance you want to time and watch to see if the two frequencies match you adjust the active length of the balance spring until they do The whole thing is done by eye and the woman performing this operation made several quite minute adjustments to the balance spring as we watched; the discrepancies were completely undetectable to me but obviously very apparent to her (It's worth noting that Montblanc also makes balance springs in Villeret for higher end watches in such collections as 1858 and Villeret) This would have been preceded by poising the balance (and yes there's a tool for that) to eliminate any heavy spots on the rim like hand-forming the Phillips overcoil outer terminal curve and probably dynamically poising the balance (even a perfectly poised balance will have its poise disturbed once the balance spring is attached and the balance starts to run; the appearance of these "virtual" heavy spots Another domain in which there are a tremendous number of not only specialist tools Movement finishing is generally not well understood and for various reasons; the watch industry has mixed feelings about having an educated audience A great many traditional finishing methods are easy to imitate with ever-improving fidelity (a couple of years ago someone doing hand-finishing in a factory in Switzerland said to me that "anyone who cares about hand finishing should be terrified of lasers") and reliable information in English on the subject – which is probably the single biggest difference between an entry level and a real high-end watch – is extremely hard to find (the best book on the subject is a slim volume by Audemars Piguet which as far as I can tell is long since out of print) good hand-finishing is still done using old-fashioned methods and one of the most specific of tools are polishing sticks made from the woody stem of the yellow gentian The stems are gathered in the fall; the reason for this is that yellow gentian is an herbaceous perennial which dies back to its rootstock in the fall – you use the dried woody stem to make polishing sticks Yellow gentian in flower; image, Wikimedia Commons, by Heinz Staudacher Dried yellow gentian in the finishing department Gentiana lutea may be a mono-tasker in horology but it has a wide range of culinary and traditional medicinal uses – it's been used for many centuries as a digestive tonic; it's an anti-hypertensive; you can use it instead of hops in brewing beer; and it makes a kind of schnapps so bitter that the mere mention of it was enough to wrinkle noses when the subject came up at Montblanc Villeret it comes in at the very end of the process of polishing flanks and bevels Charged with diamantine powder (aluminum oxide mixed to form a paste with oil) it's a critical tool in the last stages of polishing bevels and flanks woody stems is just right to get a mirror polish The elaborately shaped and finished upper bridge of a Montblanc Villeret Collection Exotourbillon It was quite satisfying for me to finally identify the exact species of gentian used in this process I've been reading that gentian wood was used in polishing flanks and bevels in high end watchmaking for years but nailing down the exact species proved surprisingly difficult (the answer at several manufactures was basically An interesting story starring Gentiana lutea is one Philippe Dufour likes to tell Dufour famously advised the folks from Seiko's Micro Artist Studio on high end watch finishing and sent them back to Japan with a supply of yellow gentian wood; a year later they asked him for another shipment; and a year after that they said we've found a suitable regional substitute In general I think Montblanc doesn't get enough credit for the incredible quality of their high end movements; there is a really admirable amount of very stubbornly traditional watchmaking going on at Villeret and at the high end the results easily rival anything produced by any other haut de gamme manufacturer One of the delights of watchmaking are all the highly specialized tools and methods that it relies on and both modern technology and traditional methods can complement each other beautifully While many enthusiasts are understandably a little cynical these days about the luxury watch industry as a whole I sometimes wonder if the disconnect is at least partly due to some of the challenges involved in getting across exactly what methods are being used the watch industry has tended to be secretive – you can chalk some of that up to Swiss discretion but some of it was also protection of trade And part of it also stems from the traditional – or maybe habitual is a better word – relationship of luxury to its clients which was based on the notion of complete trust in the luxury maker's know-how and a kind of serene disinterest in the nuts and bolts of how things were done right You merely trusted that they were being done right English hand finished watches were expensive and bought only by gentlemen were not interested in wheels and polish which were merely manifestations of trade something which no gentleman would want to be thought to recognize." However it's exactly these "manifestations of trade" that are of great concern to potential clients  As a longtime practitioner of Chinese and Japanese martial arts I can testify that you see the same thing in other disciplines (in the martial arts one of the biggest revolutions was the realization that many of the traditional systems were simply going to die out if there wasn't more openness is that Montblanc is the name on the dial of these watches and no matter the quality some people are simply going to stop listening when they hear the name Montblanc puts more craft and care into its watches than you might suspect at first is some of the finest traditional watchmaking going on today ShareSaveLifestyleWatches & JewelryMontblanc's Two Watch Facilities Detail The Past And Present Of WatchmakingByAnthony DeMarco 09:25am EDTShareSaveThis article is more than 7 years old.Montblanc the German luxury brand with a history that dates back to 1906 in particular its Meisterstück pens that have been used by world leaders to sign many of the most important documents during the past 100 years The company’s Swiss watch business began in earnest in 1997 when it established Montblanc Montre in Le Locle one of the world’s largest luxury holding companies purchased watch manufacturer Minerva in the picturesque Swiss town of Villeret and gave it to Montblanc Minerva specializes in producing high-performance hand-made chronograph movements or more specifically the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie at Villeret (Minerva Institute of Research in High Watchmaking at Villeret) Being a newcomer in the Swiss watchmaking industry wasn’t easy at first A common joke thrown around among Swiss watchmakers at the time was “Where do you put the ink?” People don’t joke about Montblanc watches anymore Its investment in Swiss watchmaking has paid off multiple times and the luxury brand once known solely for highly crafted fountain pens is now equally known for its timepieces in styles ranging from high-performance sports chronographs to elegant high quality watches with exceptional complications A visit to its two manufacturing facilities shows the diversity of its watchmaking operation Watchmakers at work at Montblanc Le Locle manufacture Montblanc Montre in Le Locle may be the new kid on the block but it has a look and feel of an old worldly watchmaking shop That’s because its main building in the two-building complex is an Art Nouveau villa This is where the majority of its 10 watch collections are designed and manufactured In recent years it has included movements designed and built at the Villeret facility and marketed under the historic Minerva name inside the watchmaking facility combines modern design and manufacturing technology with hand-built and assembled watches A watchmaker at Montblanc's Le Locle facility assembles a movement The design for nearly all of the watches is done through renderings created by computer-aided-design software by a team of designers This includes the case materials and the size of the watch This is commonplace today in the world of watches The results are shared with the engineers who specify the construction of the cases watch straps will need to be made during the design phase if they are an integral part of the overall design A designer explained that the 3D renderings are so accurate that very little technical adjustments are needed Creating a new design for an existing model or movement could take up to a year A new timepiece could take as long as three years to produce The facility has been using 3D printing for five years to create wax models for watches One designer called it a “revolution” because of how closely it can replicate the design of the final product We can see the shape of the horns (lugs) quickly It saves time and also we can go deeper into the details of the design.” A machine used for testing the integrity and endurance of Montblanc watches Montblanc’s innovation doesn’t end once the watch is made The company has a space dedicated to testing the integrity and endurance of watches through five sets of tests for a total of 500 hours The program is designed to simulate the first year in a watch’s life scientific torture chamber with machines brutally beating watches and straps through repeated processes Approximately 2 percent of the watches produced by Montblanc are tested for winding performance Just 20 miles and seemingly a world away from the high-tech watch manufacturers in Le Locle is Montblanc’s Villeret watchmaking facility contains watches and movements dating back to the 19th century Large wooden file cabinets are filled with artifacts including watch dials Tall bookcases contain neatly stacked ledgers that document the parts and sales over the many years of the company’s history File cabinets containing historic parts from Minerva watches its small staff of watchmakers specializes in producing limited numbers of chronographs tourbillons and a few bespoke timepieces for private clients Their chronographs with handmade movements were so accurate they were used in the battlefields of World War I and II and to keep time for the events of the 1936 Winter Olympics Movement components handmade by Villeret watchmakers are organized for assembly Villeret remained true to its roots and pretty much operated separately producing limited quantities of chronographs under the Villeret name featured handmade highly polished movements with its trademarked V-shaped bridge and a small arrow During Jérôme Lambert's stint as Montblanc CEO from 2013 to 2017 things changed for Villeret as it became more intertwined with the Le Locle operation Its movements (including the V-shaped bridge and a small arrow) were used for watches designed and produced in Le Locle The Minerva name was revived in the marketing of several Montblanc models with Villeret movements the watchmaking facility still produced high quality chronographs with handmade movements produced in limited numbers under the Villeret name A watchmaker in Villeret using a soft wood to polish a movement component in the watchmaking rooms it seems like little has changed vertical drills and engine turning machines that could date back more than 80 years share the building with modern CNC and CAD equipment Some machines are so old parts aren’t available anymore so watchmakers have to hand-build the parts and even the tools to repair the equipment Some of the machinery at Villeret that could be more than 80 years old keeping the tradition and integrity of traditional watchmaking alive while maintain a relationship with its partner in the modern world The time has finally come for Zenith to open the doors to its one and only boutique in Switzerland in the most symbolic location of all: its Manufacture in Le Locle Long regarded as the birthplace of the very first vertically integrated Swiss watchmaking site in 1865 the Zenith Manufacture makes for a uniquely immersive watch shopping experience Whether to immortalize a memorable tour of the Manufacture or to purchase a Zenith timepiece from the place of its creation the Zenith Manufacture Boutique is the perfect place to dive into Zenith’s lore while shopping its full range of watches in a harmonious space blending centuries-old tradition with a contemporary atmosphere Upon arriving at the Manufacture in Le Locle where warm neutral tones are juxtaposed against a stretching central blue element from the floor to the spiralling staircase that’s backlit to evoke a starry night sky – a symbolic element central to Zenith’s lore from the time of its foundation and a nod to its “Time to Reach Your Star” philosophy For those wanting to learn more about Zenith the “Story Bar” allows visitors to take a moment while diving deeper into the Zenith universe in a surprising and unexpected way When interacting with any of the four objects behind the Story Bar videos about the significance of what these objects represent as well as the inspirational stories of individuals from Zenith’s past and present begin to play on the screen Making the visit of its Manufacture Boutique more convenient visitors can book an appointment in advance through the Zenith website and request to see specific models prior to their arrival or place orders remotely To celebrate the opening of its Manufacture boutique Zenith introduces its latest boutique-exclusive special edition the Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition This special edition combines the instantly recognizable and lauded design codes of the earliest El Primero steel chronographs from 1969 with the iconic automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre’s latest iteration that measures and displays elapsed time in 1/10th fractions of a second Making this Boutique Edition is the striking blue dial paired with silver chronograph registers for a historically inspired yet totally original look The Zenith Blue colour is central to the identity of the brand from the starry night sky that inspired its founder over 150 years ago to the striking colour found in many of its movements and dials Available on either a steel bracelet or blue calfskin leather strap the Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition is available at all Zenith boutiques around the world as well its online shop.The Zenith Manufacture is excited to be able to offer guided tours on a regular basis again Whether group tours organized by the Neuchâtel Tourism Office or private group visits the entire team at the Manufacture is eager to share its passion and unparalleled history with newcomers and seasoned Zenith aficionados alike Offering ever more immersive and educational experiences for those who embark to visit the Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle a Watch Clinic workshop is now proposed with three distinct modules adapted to each visitor’s level of knowledge and interest Lasting up to three hours and available in four languages the modules include a basic course on how mechanical movements function a chronograph course that delves into the specifics of the El Primero 3600 1/10th of a second chronograph function and finally for those with a passion for vintage watches a course on restoration watchmaking and how Zenith preserves its historical works it is bound to be a unique and memorable experience to cherish The Zenith Manufacture now welcomes visitors to discover upon request its restoration atelier where they can witness the meticulous process of restoring Zenith Icons and vintage Zenith watches back to their former glory With its archives spanning the entire company’s history the restoration department can work on any watch that Zenith has produced since 1865 Visitors can witness the immensity of the archives a veritable time capsule within the Manufacture Zenith is also highlighting visionary and trailblazing women – past and present – by celebrating their accomplishments and creating in 2020 its first-ever collection dedicated entirely to them Zenith features exceptional in-house developed and manufactured movements in all its watches Zenith has gone on to master fractions of the second with the Chronomaster Sport and its 1/10th of a second precision and the DEFY 21 with a precision of 1/100th of a second - Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph able to measure and display 1/10th of a second Stop-second mechanism- Movement: El Primero 3600 Automatic Boutique edition.- Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)- Power reserve: approx 60 hours- Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre 1/10th of a second- Chronograph: central chronograph hand that makes one turn in 10 seconds 60 second counter at three o’clock.- Case: 38-mm- Material: stainless steel- Dial: Blue-toned with silver-toned counters- Water-resistance: 5 ATM- Caseback: sapphire crystal- Price: 8900 CHF- Hour-markers: Rhodium-plated faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLN C1- Hands: Rhodium-plated faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLN C1- Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet and stainless steel double folding clasp 1/10th of a second Chronograph: central chronograph hand that makes one turn in 10 seconds 60 second counter at three o’clock.- Case: 38-mm- Material: stainless steel- Dial: Blue-toned with silver-toned counters Water-resistance: 5 ATM- Caseback: sapphire crystal- Price: 8400 CHF Hour-markers: Rhodium-plated faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLN C1 Hands: Rhodium-plated faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLN C1- Bracelet & Buckle: Blue calfskin leather strap with stainless steel triple folding clasp the world of watchmaking opened its doors to the public (from Germany workshops and other venues in Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds gave watch enthusiasts a glimpse of their work at the 9th Watchmaking Heritage Days that were a special edition for the ten-year anniversary of watchmaking urbanism at UNESCO Audemars Piguet was one of those taking part with Renaud & Papi its manufacturing arm specialising in the design and production of complication watches Giulio Papi set up the manufacture because he wanted to work on complex mechanisms: "I didn't want to be the guy changing batteries in a shop I wanted to work on complication watches," he says In 1992 Audemars Piguet invested in the company as a financial partner Following the departure of Dominique Renaud and it wants to make the Le Locle site a part of its image hence why new premises are currently being built This year's Watchmaking Days were something of a milestone this being the first time the public had been allowed inside the Le Locle manufacture with Giulio Papi himself proving to be an accomplished tour guide The event attracts a knowledgeable audience and his explanations of the different parts of the building Papi took care to present the workshops in a methodical way beginning with a general introduction then giving a detailed description of what each person was doing - as they carried on unfazed by the visitors clustered around the workbench he delivered information clearly and simply explaining how every component was sent there to have all traces of machining removed and/or to be given a particular finish or pattern He elaborated on the various techniques used in the industry in dial finishing for example where he pointed out the various methods such as sunray brushing and sandblasting.  The watchmakers were equally instructive in their descriptions of what they were doing - as were their colleagues in the other workshops all the employees showed great patience and clarity in their explanations as one visitor confirmed: "Everyone took time to tell us what they were doing using simple terms we could understand." Commentary throughout the tour was geared towards both adults and children This noteworthy initiative by Renaud & Papi contributes to a greater democratisation of watchmaking as it gives a wider audience insight into this aspect of Swiss culture Opening up the doors of the industry this way has an additional benefit too: that of sparking vocations that will carry on Switzerland's grand watchmaking tradition a quick-release bracelet and build quality that is pretty much unrivalled in the ‘under $2,000’ weight class Tissot’s soft overhaul of the Chemin des Tourelles line comes as welcome news to those who are looking for a solid back-to-work companion The historic Le Locle brand has dialled in all the stuff that works for this chic-modern line: offering the updated Chemin des Tourelles in just three diameters (i.e blues and jewel-tone greens; all registering solid wearability Now essentially bifurcated between two dial styles (tl;dr – one is decorated with applied Roman numerals the other features batons) the collection still retains plenty of classic horological flair – something of a given when you realise it’s named for the ‘Turret’ road in Le Locle where Tissot first laid the foundation of its historic manufacture in 1907.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-ArticlesPOS3'); }); But enough about history – what do we mean when we talk about ‘classic horological flair’ the dial feels like an apt place to start: regardless of whether you prefer Romans or batons Tissot’s designers have opted to update the faces of each Chemin des Tourelles with a sloped curvature – a choice that has galvanized wider visual changes all of the indexes – but the Roman numerals especially – are now gently bent Handsets have been updated to a bold sword-shaped style too reflecting Tissot’s desire for the Chemin des Tourelles to deliver outsized presence on wearers’ wrists – even within the nominal confines of the simple time-and-dater the faceted case flank; reinforced sapphire crystal; plus all sorts of other welcome additions) speak to the Chemin des Tourelles’ new spirit of classic watchmaking It’s certainly the simplest explanation for a watch that feels like a refinement of its predecessor and almost certainly capable of rising (or chilling as the case may be) to a plethora of dress codes.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-ArticlesPOS4'); }); The three new case sizes and duo of elegant/minimal dial executions have made it easier than ever to wear the Chemin des Tourelles in a way that amplifies your own style for instance: on the matching steel bracelet (embellished with a subtle taper and polished mid-link design) it instantly lifts the quality of most workaday uniforms adding colour and visual punctuation to a mishmash of denim The aforementioned quick-release bracelet can be swapped out – at the pinch of a pusher – for a range of Tissot’s compatible leather straps This might as well be a whole different watch But since the crux of daily appeal hinges on convenience we simply must have a discussion about how these watches perform – inarguably the arena where Tissot frequently sweeps away the competition.googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('div-gpt-ad-ArticlesPOS5'); }); the new Chemin Des Tourelles benefits from Tissot’s long track record of robust mechanical movement manufacturing Regardless of whether you prefer a 39mm or 42mm daily wearer all models now come equipped with the ‘Powermatic 80’: Tissot’s signature self-winding movement laden with gadgetry meant to future-proof it in the 21st century these next-gen Powermatics have just been given new ‘Nivachron’ (Co7) balance springs: ensuring they remain free from the magnetic disturbances of laptops smartphones and any other ephemera you’re bound to find in your garden variety office cubicle Widely regarded as a superior alternative to the conventional hairspring Nivachron combines the friction resistance of steel with antimagnetic and temperature-resistant properties It’s just one more way in which Tissot is honouring its future commitment to the Chemin Des Tourelles: a watch with classic DNA Thank you for supporting the brands that support Boss Hunting Signup to the Boss Hunting Friday Newsletter Have you ever dreamed about visiting a watch manufacture Together with our friends of Montblanc we’re giving you the chance to win a trip to the Montblanc Watch Manufacture in Le Locle is one of two Montblanc watch manufactures and this is the place of birth of the iconic Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph and the impressive TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph that is also equipped with an in-house movement You will have the chance to win a visit to the beautiful Montblanc watch manufactory in Le Locle subscribe to the MONOCHROME newsletter and when the sweepstake ends we will randomly select a winner to be flown to Switzerland along with MONOCHROME founder and executive editor Frank Geelen (that’s me) The Montblanc watch manufacture in Le Locle is first of all a beautiful place located in and underneath a historic villa And it is the place where Montblanc watches are designed before they are sent to dealers around the world So what are you waiting for? Click here to visit the sweepstake page click the submit button and subscribe to the Monochrome newsletter Wow i will not sleep waiting for the results of this.By far my favoutite manufacture right now and btw good luck to all including myself of course 🙂 My daily wear watch is a Montblanc Automatic chronograph Winning a tour of the Montblanc Watch Manufacture in Le Locle would be a dream come true