It seems the wine world never tires of tying itself in knots over the most esoteric of topics This week saw numerous French publications turn the spotlight on Trouspinette – a Breton wine (of which more, see below) similar to Vermouth made by macerating hawthorn shoots in red wine prior to filtering and the addition of sugar and spirit The interest came after French Interior Minister Bruno Retailleau gifted a bottle of Trouspinette to each minister as the new government got down to work in the new year a right-wing minister in France's Rassemblement National (the former Front National or National Front) has tabled a bill that would see France's strict Evin Law (which severely limits the level of advertising and promotion of alcohol in France) relaxed for wine is proposing that wine be classed differently to other alcoholic beverages It is not known when the bill will be debated Here are some more headlines you might have missed this week: The mayor of the town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – known for a one-off Papal sojourn as well as the epicenter of the eponymous wine appellation – has hit out at the concept of Dry January calling it "insulting" and "infantilizing" who has held the mayoral office since 2020 and whose brother Paul was the winemaker at famed producer Clos des Papes (Paul's son Vincent took over in 2009) was speaking to French radio station Ici Vaucluse (part of the FranceBleu chain) on the subject last weekend He said he had "had enough" of the Dry January concept in which participants do not touch alcohol for the month of January "because it doesn't trust our sense of responsibility It gives the idea that people are going to get drunk on wine [and] drink bottles all day long without any capacity for moderation given France's wine drinking trends were already in a nosedive (down 20 percent in the past 10 years there was no need to add abstinence into the mix This was the question asked by French wine news publication Vitisphere.com this week which looked at the opportunities for wine producers to use bulk wine shipments and private label bottlings in the US as a means to bypass potential import duties on bottled wine into the States "Bulk shipments [in 2019] appeared as a way to circumvent this additional tax and could again play a role if the future [sic] president carries out his threats," began the piece Trump brought in a 25-percent import tax on EU bottled wine (as well as other traditional produce such as cheese and olive oil) following a trade dispute between Boeing and Airbus These were suspended by the Biden administration in 2021 From traditional product to hard marketing it was hard to imagine a French winemaker reading the following without a frown: "Very often inspiration comes from Nielsen data. If a retailer points to a trend toward Sonoma Chardonnay, for example, and doesn't carry it, there's a good chance they'll create a private label to fill that gap," Adam Schulz, a wine broker based in Washington State for segments of the industry in dire straights the allure of private label bottling will not be lost to many last week saw a number of French news outlets rehash an AFP agency piece on French wine cooperatives struggling to adapt to current market conditions [cooperatives] bring together thousands of winegrowers who have been hit hard by the industry crisis between overproduction falling consumption and climatic change: the time has come to restructure and diversifiy," said the piece private labels did not exist in the US," said Jonas de Maere head of sourcing for multinational Belgian retailer and distributor Ahold-Delhaize The firm now produces some 150 private labels accounting for around five percent of its sales "Our goal is to increase our total wine sales to 10 percent in the coming years," added de Maere whether or not the American public will embrace such wines – even if they are French – is not guaranteed The US wine consumer remains relatively conventional in outlook "[Being innovative] doesn't work well. We tried to launch a Vinho Verde a few years ago we don't succeed with little-known grape varieties or regions under private labels and instead we try to focus on segments that have already proven themselves The buyer added that the alcohol-free wine sector – in which France is an EU leader (Italy only just gave the green light to no-alcohol wine production in December – see "Italy gives green light to zero-alcohol wine" in Jayer Sale Makes Auction Record) – was another potential segment for growth More direct action from the south of France this week, where winegrowers descended on a French wine merchant after news got out that it had imported and bottled an unknown quantity of Muscat of Samos – a step too far in the land of Muscat de Rivesaltes On Wednesday morning, members of agricultural union Coordination Rurale blocked off access to the CVR (Compagnie Vinicole de Rivesaltes) Bourdouil negociant firm (part of the sizeable La Martiniquaise wine and spirits group) located just a few kilometers northeast of the eponymous town of Rivesaltes – itself just north of regional capital Perpignan Vineyard posts and recently grubbed-up vines as well as old tyres were dumped in front of the entrance "Muscat of Samos go get your wines drunk in Greece" read the banner stretched across the access road to the plant "We're not selling our wines; the vats are full and we want to make the wine merchant aware that Greek wine imports are killing us," said one of the protestors News outlet France3 Occitanie said a delegation of protestors was "promptly received by management" The news service said rural ire had been raised after a winegrower, during another direct action operation in a Hérault (Languedoc) supermarket in December noticed that a bottle of Muscat of Samos had been packaged (i.e "More than half of our output is made up of client bottling of which there is a little Muscat of Samos," said Bourdouil boss Bernard Langlois "Whether it's bottled here or elsewhere does not mean it competes with Muscat de Rivesaltes We need these [Samos] wines to diversify and ensure our productivity." although they were somewhat disparaging of their Greek counterparts Greek wine is cheaper than ours and of truly different quality but in the end it's the same price for the consumer," said Philippe Maydat head of the Pyrénées-Orientales branch of Coordination Rurale "There are people making margins in the middle .. "We are support the expansion bottling lines. But providing services to importers of foreign Muscat in Rivesaltes, the birthplace of Vin Doux Naturel It would be better to promote our local sweet wines," added Maydat the négoce firm said it would put pressure on its distributors to promote Rivesaltes wines The recent news that the northwestern French region of Brittany was looking to establish its first IGP title (see "Brittany launches bid for IGP status" in Wine Boss Gunned Down in Mexico) has caused consternation in the Pays Nantais (Muscadet) region after it emerged that winegrowers in the region had not been consulted on the project While modern-day Brittany administratively spans four departments: Côtes-d'Armor the Loire-Atlantique department (which includes Nantes and much of Muscadet) was some winegrowers in the Loire-Atlantique have been pushing for a Bretagne IGP to cover their produce for over a decade the Loire-Atlantique winemakers were "surprised" at not being consulted on the latest IGP Bretagne efforts by winemakers in administrative Brittany – often first-generation winegrowers who have set up in the last few years "We could have done this [project] together but it's a bit of a game of hide-and-seek It's a shame because it basically ignores winegrowing Brittany which is largely in the Pays de Nantes," said Pays de Nantes winegrower Thierry Jolivet Jolivet is also the head of the Syndicat des Vignerons de Bretagne (Union of Brittany Winegrowers) which represents the Pays de Nantes push for the Bretagne IGP However, winemakers in the Pays Nantais already have access to an IGP: Val de Loire moves by the Pays Nantais winegrowers to claim the Brittany title (what they see as a historic right) is also doubtless a drive to differentiate their produce from the wider Loire Valley (the IGP Val de Loire spans a huge 14 departments across western and central France) on the shelf Given the Pays Nantais represents 500 winegrowers across 9500 hectares their complaints at not being included in an IGP Bretagne push on the part of a group of small first-generation winegrowers in administrative Brittany "We are very open [to talks] on territorial issues but we must not lose sight of the consumer," said Loïc Fourure of Domaine Dantelelezh in the Morbihan department Should the IGP Bretagne title have an image of small first-generation (almost hobby) winegrowers or that which encompasses a wide collection of growers and producers in an already established and highly productive winemaking zone Our latest update from the Bordeaux En Primeur front line features dry and sweet whites and a curious red Graves vintage The latest sales figures are bad news for producers hoping high-end wines will get them through these tough economic times It's all about music as much as wine as we round up this week's news from the wine world We conclude our search for the world's most sought-after wines with our overall top 10 Joe Biden might not be in the White House any more but his influence is still being felt at one crucial committee The science keep piling up: wine is good for your health Bordeaux En Primeur's Uncertain Start The En Primeur campaign for the 2024 Bordeaux wines has taken its first Ever wished you could hypnotize your friends into drinking better wine As traditional wine markets tighten and contract perhaps it's time to look at a previously overlooked wine market the death of Pope Francis was more than just another world leader's passing and excellent value fizzes to bring in the new year When it comes to choosing the right wines, Christmas dinner is something of a challenge The classic bird (or plant-based alternative) with all the trimmings is a riot of sensations from the soft umami hit of stuffing and gravy to the piercing sweet-sour burst of cranberry sauce and the bitter green tang of sprouts I tend to go one of two ways: pick out an acid-driven wine (white red or orange) that will cleanse and revive and cut through the fat; or something substantial and spicy (a beefy red or rich oak-aged white) that stands up to anything you care to throw at it The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. I’ve included several examples of each in this year’s selection There are also wines to take care of aperitifs parties and the shapeless hours (and leftovers) of the days after you’ve cleared away the wrapping paper but before you’ve popped the cork on the New Year’s Eve fizz (also included here) A final suggestion: if you need more than a couple of bottles this Christmas it’s worth thinking about buying by the case of six or 12 with plenty of multi-buy discounts available from independent merchants and online specialists as well as the supermarkets tropical fruit salad-juicy blend is an attractive solo sipper and a good value party bottle It has the presence and verve to be a match for any spicy soups or leftover turkey curries M&S Chez Michel Marsanne Collines RhodaniennesRhône, France 2023 (£9, Marks & Spencer) Made from local variety marsanne by the ever reliable Rhône co-operative producer Cave de Tain l’Hermitage this delightful Christmas dinner-ready white combines fulsome soft pear and white peach with a subtle There are so many fine Cape white wines being made from old chenin blanc vines right now with gorgeous honeyed apple shimmering over racy citrus pith Tenute Orestiadi Organic Orange Inzolia Sicily, Italy 2023 (£13, Booths) With their mix of red wine grip and white wine freshness orange wines are among the most versatile with food mandarin-scented and very gently astringent Sicilian is a fine festive grub all-rounder Argentina is still much better known for its reds but its top whites have never been more compelling this comes from a family producer at the top of its game and is brilliant value Ventisquero Grey Sauvignon Blanc Atacama, Chile 2021 (from £16.50, vinvm.co.uk; ndjohn.co.uk; reservewines.co.uk) There’s something counterintuitive about finding super-fresh white wines from one of the world’s driest places seafood-friendly sauvignon blanc that lifts and cleanses with green-herb energy Ulysse Cazabonne SauternesBordeaux, France NV (£21, thewinesociety.com) Christmas dinner isn’t complete without the sticky elixir of a sweet wine, whether it is paired with cheese or pudding or sipped solo. This Wine Society exclusive sourced from an undisclosed big-name producer Domaine Moreau-Naudet ChablisBurgundy, France 2022 (£33.95, leaandsandeman.co.uk) but at its best it’s hard to beat chablis for the purest most fluently stylish iteration of the renowned white grape variety Domaine Moreau-Naudet’s incisive example is a model of perfectly balanced succulence Most of the cheapest wines on the market resort to a hefty dose of sugar to cover up their flaws but this surprisingly serious budget buy avoids such mawkish sweetness and offers a smoky-savoury tint to its berry juiciness Chassaux et Fils Costières de NîmesRhône, France 2023 (£6.99, Aldi) If your ideal Christmas dinner wine is the solar-powered richness of châteauneuf du pape this robust brambly-spicy red Rhône blend from vineyards around Nîmes is a more than acceptable alternative M&S Found SaperaviKakheti, Georgia 2022 (£10, Marks & Spencer) The Found series of lesser-spotted styles and grape varieties is home to many of the highlights in the M&S range Not least this deliciously hearty but brightly blackberry-juicy Ponte da Boga P MencíaRibeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain 2023 (£11.95, thewinesociety.com) remote vineyards of Galicia in north-west Spain the mencía grape variety makes some gorgeously vivid This example’s satiny cherry-skin feel and black cherry-juicy flavours are a guaranteed cranberry sauce-like hit with the turkey vanilla and coconut softness of traditional American oak-aged rioja Tesco’s house gran reserva is consistently superb value The latest vintage has all the suave tannin tobacco and umami savouriness required for Boxing Day roast beef BEST BUYChâteau Tour MarcillanetHaut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France 2018 (from £15.95, hhandc.co.uk, swig.co.uk) classic claret is a must for many at the Christmas table and this is a fine example from a highly regarded vintage when the fruit (graphite-edged cassis) is still bright but the nimble tannins are softening up beautifully Gulfi RossojbleoSicily, Italy 2023 (from £22.15, fieldandfawcett.co.uk; cellarnextdoor.com ; corksofbristol.com; chapelstreetwines.co.uk) From one of the masters of the Sicilian native red grape variety nero d’avola supple red cherry and berry juiciness and tomato brightness Mil Suelos La Verdad Malbec Buscado Vivo o MuertoUco Valley, Argentina 2019 (£35.25, corneyandbarrow.com) Like so many of my favourite Argentinian wines hugely impressive high-altitude red combines fleshy malbec with the spine and fragrance of cabernet franc immaculate red fruit and super-fine silky tannins Cava is more than just an affordable alternative to champagne and few other fizzes can match wines such as Sainsbury’s classic brut for bottle-fermented richness and tang at a price that leaves change from a tenner Prince Alexandre Crémant de Loire BrutLoire, France NV (£14.99, reduced to £10 from 4 December to 1 January, Waitrose) made using the same techniques as champagne in other parts of France red- and green-apple-scented blend of chenin cabernet franc and chardonnay from the Loire is no exception Can Sumoi Ancestral MontònegaPenedès, Spain 2023 (from £19.49, thefinewinecompany.co.uk; shrinetothevine.co.uk; chanctonburywines.co.uk) Made in cava country using the “ancestral” or “pét-nat” method of bottling the wine while it is still fermenting this light (9.5% abv) but lively and evocative bubbly has become a festive favourite thanks to its effortless BEST BUYVeuve Monsigny 1er Cru ChampagneFrance NV (£21.99, Aldi) A cut above Aldi’s standard Veuve Monsigny champagne (£14.99) but still around half the price of most mainstream branded champagnes sourced from high-quality “premier cru” vineyards This is the archive of The Observer up until 21/04/2025 The Observer is now owned and operated by Tortoise Media Essential digital access to quality FT journalism on any device Complete digital access to quality FT journalism with expert analysis from industry leaders Complete digital access to quality analysis and expert insights complemented with our award-winning Weekend Print edition Terms & Conditions apply Discover all the plans currently available in your country See why over a million readers pay to read the Financial Times “I woke up with the golden ticket,” says Eymann, 40, who travelled from Châteauneuf-sur-Loire, a town of 8,000 people near Orléans. “It was an incredible week for my career.” A week that ended at rapper Pharrell Williams’ restaurant in Miami. The painter was the guest of honor at a private reception with canapés where the works acquired by Marc Anthony were exhibited on the walls “It’s strange to become famous overnight.” Ironically, it was to avoid the spotlight that Eymann became a painter he tried his hand at wood painting with a street art influence “I don’t want to be constrained by rules,” he says The painter prefers to “stay in his bubble” and find inspiration online going by his “interpretations” of classical works and pop culture figures In his version of Da Vinci’s The Last Supper the two apostles on the left are about to leave the scene I love this way of showing the passing of time.” and various Marylin Monroes by Andy Warhol all share a certain aesthetic Each one seems to have been washed out by the rain as if painted on a wall covered in countless posters But the original work remains clearly identifiable Anyone will recognize Marilyn’s glamorous hair Margot Robbie’s pigtails and pouting lips in the movie Birds of Prey “I started by deforming the characters I painted in the style of prestigious 18th-century English portrait artists,” says Eymann “Then my American gallerist suggested that I base my work on well-known pieces People are familiar with Da Vinci’s Salvator Mundi and they enjoy uncovering the painting in my interpretation The paintings exhibited in Miami have all been sold and the president of Avant Gallery is expecting a similar success in New York The Frenchman has also received two commissions “It’s such a surprise every time my phone rings so anything could happen!” In the meantime the father of three has returned home to France where he works part-time in a hospital and gives painting classes in his spare time Florian Eymann: InterpretationThrough April 19 Discover the best of  France-Amérique every week in our newsletter FDN / Culture / Books / BnF: Call for donations for the acquisition of the Maurice Genevoix archives Maurice Genevoix (1890-1980) © Louis MonierBridgeman Images was one of the major players in the literary life of the XXᵉ century Maurice Genevoix (1890-1980) spent his childhood in Châteauneuf-sur-Loire nature and soil would mark his sensitivity and his work he entered the École Normale Supérieure on the rue d’Ulm in 1912 but interrupted his studies when the First World War broke out: mobilized on August 2 he went to the front where he was seriously wounded near the hill of Les Éparges on April 25 he wrote an account of his war experience: Sous Verdun was published in 1916 the first of five stories later gathered under the title Ceux de 14 Roadblocks and rolling blockades are appearing in more regions as the protest by French farmers intensifies following the death of a farmer and her teenage daughter after a car drove into a barricade yesterday (January 23) Farmers are protesting against the multiplication of European regulations delays in the payment of government subsidies the ban on certain common pesticides and tax rises on agricultural diesel Last week they started to use farming machines and straw to block the motorways Read more: Farmers block several French motorways as protests spread the movement took a tragic turn on Tuesday morning (January 23) as a car in Ariège struck one of the barriers killing a woman and seriously injuring her husband and 14-year-old daughter On Tuesday evening it was announced that the girl had died of her injuries Read more: French farmer roadblocks continue: Woman killed as car hits barricade the FNSEA president said on January 24 that the movement will continue to intensify The situation is changing quickly, however you can view a real-time map of the roadblocks that are on motorways on the Vinci Autoroutes website here So far the government has sought to appease farmers a two-hour meeting between the prime minister and the farmers’ unions on Monday evening (January 22) failed to prevent the protests from spreading Government spokeswoman Prisca Thevenot announced on January 24 that Prime Minister Gabriel Attal would go to meet the protesters again “very soon” We have heard their call and we will answer it,” she said adding that the government “will defend the French agricultural model so that farmers can earn a living from their work.” The farmers union is expected to present the government with a list of 40 demands on January 24 Will €3.5billion pledge be enough to secure future of French farming? Why French village and town road signs are being turned upside down Recent power cut in Spain and Portugal is warning to holidaymakers to ensure they are prepared for worst-case scenario The resort is set to remain open to the public and not only to professionals Storms from the weekend will persist across some areas Christophe Moret has rightly been awarded a second Michelin star (Added on February 1 The executive chef at Shangri-La hotel Paris was born in the city of Orléans in the Loiret region on November 21 His deep attachment to freshly grown produce goes back to his childhood raw beans and peas straight from their vegetable garden he also played rugby for the Orléans Rugby Club After graduating from the catering school in Blois he worked as a commis from 1984 until 1988 at L’Hôtel de la Poste in Corps la Salette (Isère) at Le Château d’Isenbourg in Rouffach (Haut Rhin) at la Capitainerie in Châteauneuf sur Loire at Le Château d’Isenbourg in Rouffach (Haut Rhin) and at Le Grand Hôtel in Saint-Jean-de-Luz where he worked under the great chef Bruno Cirino A comfortable sofa and chairs at restaurant L’Abeille. Photo © Shangri-La Hotel Paris Christophe Moret learned the importance of finding the best available produce The young commis followed his chef to Château Eza in Eze (Alpes-Maritimes) Bruno Cirino had been the most successful disciple of Jacques Maximin Christophe Moret remembers him most for being a creative genius Christophe Moret had the chance to work as chef de partie under Jacques Maximin at the famous restaurant Le Théâtre in Nice in 1989 Bruno Cirino had not only worked under Jacques Maximin the fabulous Negresco in Nice but also under Alain Ducasse at the restaurant Juana in Juan-Les-Pins This allowed Christophe Moret to get a job as chef de partie at the prestigious Le Louis XV in Monaco where Alain Ducasse still reigns with his three Michelin-Stars from 1990 – when Le Louis XV was awarded his third star – until 1993 Christophe Moret learned a lot about the importance of the sauce Alain Ducasse emphasized the organization of the restaurant the curiosity towards the culinary cultures of the world as well as the daily After a stint as sous-chef at L’Assiette Gourmande in Honfleur in 1993 Christophe Moret moved on as sous-chef to the elegant hotel Le Royal Monceau in Paris where he worked again under Bruno Cirino from 1994 until 1997 he had again the chance to work for Alain Ducasse as sous-chef at restaurant 59 Poincaré in Paris he was for the first time appointed head chef he executed the ideas of Alain Ducasse; another chef at Spoon who is currently executive chef at Le Royal Monceau in Paris Christophe Moret became head chef at Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the fabulous where he helped the great master keep his three Michelin-stars after the 10-month hotel closure for renovation and the re-opening with a new concept Alain Ducasse’s Plaza Athénée restaurant has just received two Michelin-stars in February 2015 Christophe Moret, the executive chef at L’Abeille, the fine dining gourmet temple at Shangri-La hotel Paris. Photo © Shangri-La Hotel Paris Christophe Moret worked as head chef at a Paris institution: Lasserre This French restaurant served some 30 classics to which Christophe Moret added a few fresher Christophe Moret was appointed executive chef at Shangri-La hotel Paris At the fine dining restaurant L’Abeille he tries to find the best possible suppliers and to offer the best produce in simplicity Japan and China find their way into a refined menu This is a legacy from his years working for Alain Ducasse Shang Palace is France’s first and only Chinese restaurant with a Michelin-star Chef Samuel Lee offers authentic Cantonese cuisine Christophe Moret does not intervene in the kitchen He only offers his help finding the best produce and gives his opinion on the dishes from a French point of view the French fine dining restaurant at Shangri-La hotel Paris Reviewed in February 2015 by Karine and Louis we had the chance to taste the first ever menu elaborated by Christophe Moret at L’Abeille As a detail of the chef’s strive for perfection It comes from a small producer called Le Ponclet they elevate an old and rare French cattle breed called Froment du Léon We started the evening with a glass of champagne as well as a Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005 with a stronger mineral taste and crisp acidity Chef Christophe Moret sent several (vegetarian) appetizers: ultra-thin pumpkin crisps with butternuts which Karine managed to liquidate all alone which testifies to their quality; a carrot sphere for each of us with carrot and ginger juice which provided an incredible explosion in the mouth; a healthy red beetroot marshmallow of quality; and a black Périgord truffles cracker for each of us Karine’s first course was a delicate “royale” of sea urchin and gold caviar A Japanese dashi broth was prepared like a flan and married with the smoked She accompanied both her dishes with a Morey-Saint-Denis 2009 Clos Sorbè a Premier Cru from the winemaker François Feuillet It is a Pinot Noir with a red berry taste from the Burgundy region the core strength of the Abeille wine cellar Louis chose first a mix of French vegetables presented together with home made tofu They were all thinly sliced and accompanied by a herb sauce with parsley It testified to the chef’s concept of simplicity whilst offering the best flavor In between we were offered leaks gnocchi with black Périgord truffles “Julienne” Karine’s second course consisted of an updated version of the classic sole Meunière The truffles were thinly sliced and directly put on the sole Louis chose as second dish caramelized onions and roasted chicories Chef Christophe Moret told me that the inspiration for this dish came from the classic Tarte Flambée of Alsace Sommelier Cédric Maupoint recommended a 2011 Meursault from the Domaine Roulot This white wine turned out to be an excellent choice; he knew about my preference for fresh A table such as ours at L’Abeille. Photo © Shangri-La hotel Paris the chef sent us a coconut jelly and Japanese edamame ice cream with coconut and vanilla served on a (vegan) agar agar gelatin The desserts at L’Abeille as well as at La Bauhinia and the salons and lounges at Shangri-La hotel Paris are the work of head pastry chef François Perret we were served an outstanding Vieux Pineau des Charentes 1971 (Lheraud) liquor Karine chose a chocolate declination composed by “sura” chocolate crispy tube and creamy chocolate as well as a “Java” chocolate ice cream slightly smoked chocolate came in three textures: crunchy Louis opted for a wafer built like a honeycomb steamed biscuit was filled with acacia honey ice cream candied figs and olive oil jam flavored with honey Louis asked for the typical French cheese trolley and chose a Comté de Garde Exceptionnelle a 2013 Gruyère from Switzerland and a creamy triple cream Brillat Savarin from the Bourgogne region the highlight from an outstanding selection coming from the famous “affineurs” Maîtres Bernard and Jean-François Antony We are confident that Christophe Moret will keep the Michelin-star at L’Abeille first earned by his predecessor Philippe Labbé let’s not forget the rest of the excellent staff including restaurant manager Christophe Kelsch head sommelier Cédric Maupoint and the young David Riehm serving us able to translate even the most difficult French terms into English (bravo!) Beauty items at Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk the famous restaurant L’Abeille is closed] who learned how to fly a helicopter so she could – successfully – break her husband out of jail) I first read How It Is while working a summer job (for €30 a week if I recall correctly) at a French tourist office in a very small town in the Loire valley It happened to be fairly near a town named Châteauneuf-sur-Loire a linguistic coincidence that caused occasional confusion among tourists thinking they had stumbled on the place where the far more famous wine whose name also begins with "Châteauneuf" was made While a large part of my duties involved trying to flog only slightly inferior local wine to these visitors I also had plenty of time to sit about and read which I was convinced would mean that the secrets of philosophy would open themselves up to me I forgot that a pearl is really just the product of irritation Knowing that Beckett had begun writing in French because he wanted to write "without style" I optimistically decided that reading Beckett's French texts alongside the English translations almost all of which were translated by Beckett himself would be an entertaining way of learning the language an endeavour that quickly proved rather more difficult than it seemed not least because Beckett's self-translations are deliberately non-literal in the main making side-by-side comparison amusing but not always particularly pedagogically useful So I just read them separately instead (I would say I started with the French versions published in 1964 (the French Comment C'est was published by Les Editions de Minuit in 1961) begins: "how it was I quote before Pim with Pim after Pim how it is three parts I say it as I hear it" The tripartite text that follows recounts in a strange the time before the encounter with "Pim" and the time afterwards and between who or what or why is a tricky question (but then again is there a "why" when it comes to love?) and a faint "he": "having rummaged in the mud between his legs I bring up finally what seems to me a testicle or two the anatomy I had" Although the relationship between the narrator and "Pim" is alternately masochistic and sadistic there are moments of sublime tenderness: "in the dark the mud my head against his my side glued to his my right arm round his shoulders his cries have ceased we lie thus a good moment they are good moments" Patrick Bixby has suggested that there are parallels between Beckett's vision of sexual sameness and the "Black Diaries" of the colonialist-turned-anti-imperialist Irish revolutionary Roger Casement which Beckett was reading around this time Beckett's text cannot easily be read as a simple reflection on Casement's political reports or sexual confessions – yet there are allusions throughout not only to the violence of Belgian and British imperialism documented by Casement in the early 20th century but also to the image of a love or a sexuality predicated on a curious kind of "sameness": "glued together like a single body in the dark the mud" the violent encounters in the dark – is occasionally tempered by moments of sublime beauty and reminiscence: "blue and white of sky a moment still April morning in the mud it's over it's done I've had the image the scene" The uncertain space between prose and poetry between self-love and love of another – all this brings me back to this rather lonely summer and to questions I still don't have the answers to I've read How It Is more times than any other novel It created and continues to create the most vivid sadnesses and joys but also conjures up the most wry descriptions of existence of love and of human capacity: "in any case we have our being in justice I have never heard anything to the contrary" Tesco Finest Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France NV (£18, Tesco) The idea of the vintage is a big part of the romance of wine By basing each release on a single year’s crop we’re reminded that wine is an agricultural product one that changes from year to year according to the conditions which in turn provides endless excuses for wine enthusiasts to indulge their never-very-well-disguised trainspotter tendencies One possibly malign side-effect of the emphasis on vintage has been to ingrain the idea that non-vintage still wines can never be as good as those from a single season – an assumption that is given credence by the fact that cheap mass market plonk doesn’t mention a year on the label by Tesco to make the latest release of one of its most upmarket own-labels – its Finest Châteauneuf-du-Pape – a non-vintage wine Arbousset Lirac, Rhône, France 2020 (£12, Tesco) I initially assumed that cost-cutting but when I asked Tesco buyer Charlotte Lemoine what was going on the talented Rhône Valley winemaker responsible for making Tesco’s Châteauneuf (and other Rhône wines in the Tesco lineup had managed to find some small parcels of wine from the outstanding 2015 and 2016 vintages in Châteauneuf-du-Pape Since there wasn’t quite enough of either vintage to stretch far enough to make it worth Tesco’s while (the company has a little over 2,800 stores in total Lemoine’s solution was to use the parcels as the basis of a blend with other a typically robust but keenly balanced take on the classic southern Rhône red blend liquorice and hedgerow fruit all jostling for attention a wine made using the same model in another northerly French region Follow David Williams on Twitter @Daveydaibach The Observer is now owned and operated by Tortoise Media.