Cascà photo on the cover: @Sardinia Country
flavorful and with a texture that is delicious to the palate: this is couscous
which has therefore successfully found its way into many food cultures
on the northern shore of the Mediterranean
We are talking in particular about the gastronomic culture of Carloforte (as of today between 5,000 and 6,000 inhabitants) and Calasetta (3,000)
two beautiful seaside towns on the Island of San Pietro and the Island of Sant'Antioco
these two small islands are a year-round tourist destination
gastronomic excellence and an extraordinary grape variety
which often grows free-range and gives brilliant and intense red wines
Carloforte and Calasetta were founded in the eighteenth century by Genoese exiles
they had settled there two centuries earlier
to trade and fish coral; by the eighteenth century relations with the Tunisians had deteriorated so they returned to the Kingdom of Sardinia
founding first Carloforte (1738) on the desert island of San Pietro
Since then these stubborn and resilient fishermen and farmers have never abandoned the Genoese language
which is an interesting contamination of Genoese cuisine
Sardinian cuisine and precisely Tunisian cuisine
And this is where the cascà carlofortino precisely comes in
an identity dish that is celebrated every year with a fine gastronomic festival
interpreted according to the sensibility of this population of Ligurians transplanted to Sardinia
Carlofort people are said to be as good farmers as they are fishermen
mentioned as early as a 1931 Italian Touring Club cookbook
following the seasons; in winter it is full of cabbage and leafy greens
in spring and summer it is colored with broad beans
nourishing dish with little expense since practically all Tabarchans have a garden in the village
others meat; there are as many variations as there are families in this seaside village
where even the children speak a kind of ancient Genoese
and know nursery rhymes and ditties now forgotten in the motherland
also celebrated in an annual festival that attracts thousands of visitors
The preparation of the cascà consists of placing the semolina on a smooth surface (or a large earthenware bowl)
pouring lukewarm water by sprinkling it and exerting a rotating action with the hand that causes the semolina to agglomerate into small balls
After forming the cascà this is left to rest before being stewed and then seasoned with seasonal vegetables and legumes previously sautéed and then stewed with spices to taste
Pilaf or pilau originally was an oriental rice-based preparation enriched with meat
Historical sources indicate that “pilaf” designates the cooking method rather than an ingredient
a delightful village whose houses are painted white and blue
it denotes a preparation of couscous (called scucuzù) with a tasty red sauce with shellfish and/or fish
after sautéing garlic and onion and fresh tomatoes (or peeled or pureed tomatoes)
to add other crustaceans or small fish as an alternative to the spider crab and cichalas
depending on what was available at the fishmonger's counter
a way to consume without waste what the fishermen of Calasetta brought home
when ecology and sustainability were a necessity to make ends meet
Do you want to discover the latest news and recipes of the most renowned chefs and restaurants in the world
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A sustainable technique for catching tuna that goes back thousands of years is on the verge of extinction in Italy – but not for a lack of fish
four men jump into a net where 49 giant Atlantic bluefin tuna are fighting for their lives
fins and sleek silvery bodies before finally securing a metal hook through the gills of the nearest fish
From one of seven wooden boats framing this càmira dâ morti (“chamber of death”)
a majestic creature about three metres long
one man swiftly cuts its jugular and the vessel fills with blood
Italy’s version of an ancient Mediterrranean fishing custom
which traps and harvests bluefin tuna in the intimate
gruesome struggle known in Italian as the mattanza (“killing”)
He comes from a long line of raís (from the Arabic for chief)
almost sacred leaders of the hunt – a mantle passed from father to son in designated families
may be more humane than suffocation in trawler nets
But the men in among them can end up in hospital from a whack of the thrashing fishes’ tails
The harvest is violent and can seem barbaric, as the dying tuna are hooked, stabbed and hoisted on to boats. However, fisheries experts regard it as a rare sustainable method of catching bluefin tuna, one of the world’s most overfished species
But they are not disappearing due to a lack of fish
While the practice was threatened in the early 2000s by a collapse in tuna populations due to commercial overfishing
EU regulations helped tuna numbers recover over the past decade
They fish tuna with Italian quotas and then sell the fish through Malta all over the world – except in ItalyFabio Micalizzi“We carry on a tradition that’s thousands of years old,” Biggio says
traditional fishers have largely failed to secure permits under successive governments under the quota system
and are now struggling to compete with big fleets in the region
While in the 1920s, more than 50 groups fished this way across Italy
also own half of the only other such fishery still active
a tonnaroto (tuna fisher) hooks an exhausted tuna
“[The tonnara] is the only eco-friendly system for bluefin tuna fishing because it does not touch or disturb the rhythms and biorhythms of tuna stocks,” says Greco
who has been working with Sardinia’s Tonnara di Carloforte since the early 90s
Unlike modern seine-net and trawler fishing vessels that catch everything in their paths
the tonnara nets are designed to catch only adult tuna
which ensures the fish return the next season
It also employs dozens of people in the community
With its swift harvest, the fish may suffer less compared with the slow suffocation in trawler nets. However, even the WWF – which considers the tonnara as sustainable – warned against making a spectacle of it
Each tuna is weighed once unloaded at the Carloforte canning factory
Quotas are seen as ‘truly disastrous’ for small fishers
Italy’s tuna quotas are held by a few boats
“They fish tuna with Italian quotas and then sell the fish through Malta all over the world – except in Italy,” says Fabio Micalizzi
a Sicilian fighting for fairer distribution of quotas
Workers at the Carloforte factory gut the tuna before freezing them
bluefin tuna populations in the Mediterranean plummeted to critical levels by the early 2000s
In an effort to stop overfishing, the EU implemented an extensive recovery plan in 2009
It allocated fishing quotas to member states
put limits on the number of boats allowed to fish and mandated a 30kg minimum weight for fished tuna
The ambitious plan seemingly paid off. Tuna populations rebounded so successfully that, since 2014, large boats “capture their yearly tuna quota in a day”, according to Alessandro Buzzi, of the WWF Mediterranean Marine Initiative
“Many newspapers still report today that tuna is an endangered species,” he says
the tuna can’t read the stupid things that humans write because otherwise it would get worried.”
The premium-quality Carloforte tuna sells for about €25 (£21) a tin but can fetch even higher prices
But the quotas that have helped fish numbers to recover have been “truly disastrous” for artisanal fishers
The EU plan anticipated member states distributing quotas among local communities
But in Italy these became skewed toward larger companies
it is illegal for many small fishers in Italy to catch tuna
Even landing tuna as bycatch while fishing for other species can be penalised
the tuna jump into your boat,” says Micalizzi in Sicily
In 2023, the Italian government redistributed a quota for 295 tonnes (roughly 1,200 adult tuna) out of 5,282 tonnes in total to small operators
especially since most of the Italian quota is allocated to a few seiners and longliners
potentially fished without the right permits
“In these games who is the loser? The smallest,” says Antonio Di Natale, a UN expert on sustainable fisheries and former research director at the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT)
In these last few years, the tuna have got bigger and bigger. So in that sense, the quota workedStefano SannaAs one of the oldest human industrial activities, according to Di Natale, the tonnara should be protected as a Unesco “intangible cultural heritage”. It is also invaluable as a sustainable fishing practice as it so easily controlled and highly selective, he adds.
Today, much of the wild tuna caught in Italy is slowly transported in large floating cages to Malta, Spain and Croatia. There, they are fattened for up to six months to appease lucrative markets such as Japan that prize large and fatty fish.
A tractor takes the heavy fish from the factory’s dock to the Carloforte processing plant in Isola San Vito. Smaller fish are immediately released, so only large adults are taken
“There is nothing illegal in this practice,” Buzzi says. “But the impact of farming a tuna in a cage is not even comparable to the environmental impact of catching a wild tuna.”
This year, before the harvest, Greco’s team released a shoal of 1,200 young tuna from their nets because they were too small. “What other fishing system allows for such selection?” he asks. But running a tonnara is neither quick nor cheap.
Read moreWhile a big seine boat can go out with a small crew and catch the entire year’s quota in a week
the preparation of the tonnara takes about six months
The multi-chambered nets spanning 3km (and 40 metres deep) take two months to prepare and two days to mount at sea using 122 anchors
Greco says he invests €1.5m a year in the tonnara
to fund what is one of Italy’s last two tonnara
he reluctantly sells 75% of his trapped fish to large-scale tuna cagers
“It certainly doesn’t create first-rate fish and it pollutes … I would have declared cages illegal.”
His tonnara is open to tourists who want to learn about the ancient practice – and it helps that they buy his premium-quality tinned tuna for €25 a pop
Fausto Siddi takes a break between sessions of pulling the nets as they wait for the tuna shoal to swim further within the tonnara trap
exhausted from a morning of work and the final
has been working at the tonnara for the past decade
The others respond: “Aoooohh!” Most of Biggio’s team return to shore with their 49 giants
several exhausted fishers sip local Ichnusa beer and bask in the sun
the tuna have got bigger and bigger,” muses Stefano Sanna
The tonnaroti relax after a long morning getting the fish in
This story was produced in partnership with the Pulitzer Center
The Carloforte tuna fish meets the highest quality standards for bluefin around the world (via South China Morning Post.) According to Fine Dining Lovers, its smell (or lack thereof)
all come together to make the bluefin of Carloforte superior to other bluefin and other tuna
Even its nutrient profile is better than other tuna as the temperatures in the west Atlantic help the tuna stay fatty
which helps it remain tender while cooking
Importers are prepared to pay as much as $1 million euros for the right bluefin because of its particularly tender flesh and the preservation techniques used on the island (per South China Morning Post)
then pierce or impale the tuna to bleed out
The bluefin is then cleaned and prepped for sale and consumption
ItalyChevron
SardiniaChevron
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Geographically isolated from the rest of the island by steep peaks, Sulcis is half-abandoned, as decades of emigration to find work in Sardinia’s resort towns and European cities have whittled away the population
But this impoverishment is countered by the area’s bucolic beauty
with sheep grazing among scraggly almond and pear trees and lush citrus groves lining the riverbanks
abandoned greenhouses are overgrown with wildflowers
left over from a burst of optimism in the ’90s
There are plenty of empty open spaces in which to feel lost and alone
When I was first getting to know Sulcis, I was consistently thrown by these contradictory images. It was not the mild, man-made beauty of Tuscany and had none of the ruffled decadence of Sicily
It was its own quiet world—wild and skittish
“Do you really think anyone would want to come visit this place?” I was asked repeatedly by locals when I moved here
“we have incredible wines and one of the largest forests in Italy
a fishing village turned farmhouse rental property
I first came here in 2005, with Ivano, who would soon become my partner in all things work, life, and home. He was born and raised in Milan
He told me about his summers as a child spent at his grandmother’s small stone house: no streetlights
he would tag along when the shepherds brought their flocks into the low mountains for water
we were married in a sheepfold overlooking the ribbon of river that winds through small agricultural plots and quiet towns huddled up against the road
We wanted to research the particularities of Sardinian craft and culture
investors) with local entities that interested them
We bought a cluster of late-18th-century derelict farmhouses and settled in with our two young children as the resident aliens of Santadi
10 minutes from where Ivano had spent his summers
Our plan is to show them Sulcis as insider-outsiders
who know a place intimately but still register its uniqueness
We’ve arranged for them to photograph a pair of dark-eyed sisters from our town
We’ll visit a woman who weaves golden byssus
from the solidified saliva of protected mollusks
30 miles west of us in the town of Sant’Antioco
the giant prehistoric stone buildings that resemble fortresses and pepper the entire island
We’ll explore the crumbling mines up the southwest coast that—active for thousands of years but now defunct—attest to both the area’s past importance and its current decline
We’ll tour the winery of the Cantina di Santadi and roast a goat with my father-in-law
then drop in on artisans and drink the potent native carignano del Sulcis wine
they pull up in the graveled drive and we usher them inside and marvel at being in the same room
A Sardinian version of ravioli filled with potato
“Attention, tourists! Sardinia is not Italy!” exclaims Murray, and we all laugh: He is referring to the graffiti on the side of a nearby ruin that serves as a welcoming, if forward, missive for anyone arriving in Sulcis by car. Yes, we nod, that is also true. Even if Sardinia has been part of Italy for more than 150 years
and still feel a deep connection to the native Nuragic civilization from the Bronze Age
The omnipresent prehistoric sites (more than 7,000 of them) on the island are a source of much pride
And so we start by taking Paola and Murray to the ancient burial site of Montessu
but it gradually opens into a natural horseshoe of a valley with numerous stony pockmarks on its grassy face
caves that were gouged directly into the volcanic rock around the third millennium b.c
They have intricate carvings on the walls and include wide
The larger ones have the appearance of giant staring skulls
Sardinians used to believe these domus de janas (fairy homes) were the dwellings of mythical sprites
has never heard of the janas and is interested to know about the island’s legends
So I tell her some of the stories I’ve heard
My father-in-law says we’re not supposed to go to the forest springs in the evening so as not to anger the fairies—that is the time for wild animals to drink in peace
recounted how a powerful jana could be heard beating the weft of her loom in a nearby cave
We walk slowly along the ridge where the empty graves sit stonily
prayers and rituals that Sardinians use to rid themselves of the evil eye
It isn’t hard to imagine the caves filled with spirits
and the sun begins to slant to its golden hour
we head west to the whitewashed town of Calasetta to board a friend’s vintage wooden sailboat for the island of San Pietro
It was founded in 1739 by coral fishermen from outside of Genoa who had spent the previous 200 years off the coast of Tunisia
King Charles Emmanuel III gave them this island in order to repopulate the western coast of Sardinia
shining port and set out to explore the tiny island
Murray worked as a boatbuilder’s apprentice when he was younger
so we find one of the last shipwrights here
walking up the coastline to the industrial part of town
Tonino Sanna welcomes us into his cluttered
which holds the enormous skeletons of multiple vessels
but Sanna smilingly shows us one hulking frame he began building from scratch in the local style
but he expects it to sit in his workshop for a while
Carloforte was once famed for the skill of its boatbuilders
but the industry has declined drastically in recent years
There is a small crowd of men gossiping and sipping coffee
“They speak a completely different language,” Ivano says
Sardinia contains many worlds: the glitzy Costa Smeralda; the Catalonian retreat of Alghero; the wild mountain coastlines both east and west; practical
insular Barbagia; the rice fields of diligent Oristano
and temperament between lively Carloforte and the rest of Sulcis are a perfect example
But Carloforte has become a haven for vacationers
despite being a small island off the coast of our own island
We move on to a languid lunch of local tuna and cascà—a dish that resembles couscous
a holdover from when the Carlofortini lived in Tunisia—on the sunny terrace of the endearingly shabby Al Tonno di Corsa
The tuna is prepared six different ways—boiled
cured—and gets progressively more intense as you work your way up the plate
culminating in a last sliver of tuna so powerful I slip mine stealthily onto Ivano’s dish
we drive to the far side of the island and visit the natural reserve where Eleonora’s falcons breed on cliffs of ragged sandstone before they head back to Madagascar for the winter
sitting under the shade of four enormous ficus trees
watching the locals and tourists mix noisily in the main piazza
we meet up with a group of women at Sa Domu Antiga
modest home with river canes lining the roof and thick mud-brick walls is a sort of living museum—everything inside has been donated by local families
and as such the town views it as a communal space
and during the Matrimonio Mauritano (a wedding staged in the traditional local style) the bride is dressed at Sa Domu Antiga
we’ve asked to use the typical round oven to make a bread called coccoi; the dough is trimmed with scissors and baked into extravagantly decorated shapes
This is the bread offered to brides and made for religious occasions
one that often feels too beautiful (now that bread is abundant) to eat
since the low-ceiling room is painted a dark pink and crowded with baskets
afraid the harsh Sulcis heat will dry it out before they can work it into rounds and points
“If we could just move outside,” Murray suggests
“Then it won’t come out beautifully,” the women counter
This moment feels emblematic of my life here: We often act as cultural translators
attempting to explain on each side the richly cultural presumptions we all unknowingly hold
1 / 13ChevronChevronPaola & MurrayA church in Villamassargia.When I first began coming to Sulcis
I could not reconcile the richness of the various crafts—brightly colored
complexly patterned textiles; minutely overdecorated ceramics; hand-shaped knives that seemed to be in everyone’s pockets—with the region’s all-too-apparent poverty
Attention to detail was something that I associated with the luxury of free time and wealth
But there is a pride here in making things beautifully
this bread is sacred because it is the bread they baked with their mothers and grandmothers in years that now seem lifetimes away
Many Sulcitani in their 60s grew up without shoes or running water; now their grandchildren have smartphones and Nikes
this is a ritual that brings them back to the years in which a loaf of bread was still a precious commodity
And they have invited us to be there with them
I convince the women to move a table into the shade on the side of the house
self-conscious of the photographers at first
and soon they begin to relax and trade quips
all the while muscling the white dough over the old wooden tabletop
They gather plump pieces and industriously snip them into intricate designs
The molded loaves sit dutifully in the large flat baskets
The day is shockingly hot; even standing in the shade of a large oak tree we are all subdued and sweaty
The women use bunches of dried rock-rose branches to light a fast-burning fire in the oven
and the fragrant smoke that fills the courtyard will let everyone in town know that someone is baking bread today
One woman steps forward with a handful of flour
and then throws the grains into the hot oven
scraping out the ashes from the fire and loading the oven with the heavy wooden paddle
the bread is ready and they pull out the loaves: first a horseshoe decorated with little nesting hens
and next a puffed-up loaf with a tiny star shape on its middle
The women cluck humbly about how clumsy each loaf looks
They divide the loaves between us and deliver them each with a kiss on our cheeks and a warm squeeze of our hands
Peter OumanskiWhen to come: It’s no use saying not to visit in July and August—the heat is grueling and the beaches are crowded—but all of Sardinia is best at any other time
the countryside a lush green; spring is filled with wildflowers; and autumn has a soft evening light
Look out for local festivals—there’s the Sant’Anna Arresi Jazz Festival in September
and Settimana Santa a Iglesias before Easter
Getting there: You’ll need a car to get to and around Sulcis
is only 90 minutes from most of Sulcis’s towns
which makes flying in and renting relatively easy
Don’t be deterred—get lost and ask a shepherd for help
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Italy is heading back into lockdown this Easter as it struggles to contain the third wave of COVID-19
has also had this restriction imposed upon it
despite being one of the only regions in the country to hold the virus at bay
Italy has a colour system that reflects the level of risk from the virus
it's in the highest risk category and thus has the most restrictions
White is the lowest risk level with the most relaxed restrictions
Sardinia was in the unique position of being in a COVID ‘white’ safe area
small population and a thorough screening campaign
As the rest of Europe was starting to shut down
she tells us what it means to be in a white low-risk zone
It's a relief because they can "finally move around the region freely"
Sardinia has succeeded in keeping the number of COVID-19 cases below 50 for every 100 000 residents for almost a month
Some Italian regions on high alert can have over 500 cases for every 100 000
However, restrictions can change very quickly and that is why the Mayor of Carloforte does weekly speeches to inform the population of what is going on. His Facebook lives have become a must-see for everyone from the area
It's the Mayor of Carloforte who prepares the locals for the sad news that Sardinia will now be in an orange risk zone
This means that bars and restaurants will close and residents won't be able to leave their towns
He tells us that being a white zone isn’t a goal achieved by chance
"it is something we worked really hard to obtain and we should try to keep it like that
The way forward is to respect regional directives"
For residents like Marisa and Stefania it's a change for the worse
They don't understand why the decision was taken so abruptly
"The cases we see on TV are far from our reality
The residents of Carloforte got to enjoy one last weekend before having to deal with the new restrictions
They went out to bars and enjoyed the terraces of restaurants owned by people like Cristiano
He feels puzzled by the decision to put Sardinia into a higher risk category
But to him the greater issue is not the finances
he doesn't understand why the island is moving into an orange zone
The colour status of every Italian region is re-evaluated every week and depends on how the pandemic evolves
Perhaps Sardinia will once again go back to its safer status shortly
According to internationally renowned virologist
this risk system strategy has "proven totally inefficient"
He believes that after the first Italian lockdown
they missed "the occasion to set up a control and tracing system based on automatic closures and restrictions whenever a cluster emerged"
The initial optimism that the emergency had stopped was coupled with "a series of mistakes
the government’s decisions have ignited controversy among regional authorities
Its local administration has chosen not to comment on Rome’s decision
He tells us that Sardinia deserves to remain in a lower risk zone "because out of 21 factors used by the government to evaluate the level of risk
but its touristic areas became clusters in August
any passenger arriving without a negative COVID-19 test or a vaccination certificate is tested on-site
thinks that when thousands of tourists come during the summer months "thorough screening" like this will not be possible
the number of cases now is already too high especially compared to last year’s post lockdown months
He suggests that the best course of action is "three complementary strategies: vaccination
distancing and the development of surveillance and tracing systems supported by IT and PCR tests"
Everyone seems to agree that the best way forward is vaccination
though many countries are experiencing delays due to vaccine shortages
Sardinia is at the tail end of the number of jabs administered
in the brand new vaccination centre in Olbia
authorities are trying to accelerate the process
Marco Cilliano a contagious disease specialist there tells us that they are "almost in line with the programme
in the supply of doses and in keeping stock for second doses
We need to keep around 30% which means we’ve used 70% of the vaccinations received"
the vaccination rollout is improving around the world
The idea of a vaccine passport is also gaining support
The EU Commission is expected to launch it in June
Advocates consider it could boost economies
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the elegant Luisetta Mercalli she reached the milestone of 109 years
surrounded by the affection of her daughters Angela and Myriam
Luisetta she is now the second oldest woman in Sardinia
surpasses in the island panorama and is positioned as the oldest in Cagliari
The city retirement home where she resides was the heart of an extraordinary anniversary
with the participation of the Municipality of Cagliari
which honored Luisetta with a medal and a parchment
intertwines with the centuries and becomes a fascinating story of a life lived intensely
The fundamental stages of a career dedicated to teaching and love for the family branch out from the Institute of the Carlo Felice Sisters
where Luisetta began her studies at just 12 and a half years old
Having graduated early at the age of 16 from the School of Method for Maternal Education
Luisetta lived through the most dramatic events of the twentieth century
His memory tells of the bombings in Carloforte in '43
even following them to the hospital in Iglesias
Luisetta also witnessed the pandemics that have marked the centuries
surpassing the Spanish at just 3 years old and defying Covid unscathed in this millennium
"forced" by the headmaster to accept a 15-day substitute job in Carloforte
her passion for education remained unabated
including a trip to Padua in 1938 to obtain the title of the Professional Magisterium for Women and the State exam in Rome
The sweetest chapter of her life was written at the age of 36
she taught technical education in the introductory schools
leaving an indelible mark until the reform of 1963
when she continued to teach Technical Education in the Alfieri middle school until 1979
daughter of Piergiorgio Mercalli and Limbania Rivano
comes a powerful message that spans the last century up to the present day: the realization of life between work and family
to give life to dreams and projects that resist the passage of time
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Metrics details
Human populations are often dichotomized into “isolated” and “open” categories using cultural and/or geographical barriers to gene flow as differential criteria
the use of these alternative categories could obscure further heterogeneity due to inter-population differences in effective size
We compared intra and inter-population variation measures combining novel and literature data relative to 87,818 autosomal SNPs in 14 open populations and 10 geographic and/or linguistic European isolates
Patterns of intra-population diversity were found to vary considerably more among isolates
probably due to differential levels of drift and inbreeding
The relatively large effective size estimated for some population isolates challenges the generalized view that they originate from small founding groups
Principal component scores based on measures of intra-population variation of isolated and open populations were found to be distributed along a continuum
with an area of intersection between the two groups
Patterns of inter-population diversity were even closer
as we were able to detect some differences between population groups only for a few multidimensional scaling dimensions
different lines of evidence suggest that dichotomizing human populations into open and isolated groups fails to capture the actual relations among their genomic features
the use of the terms open and isolated to indicate two discrete dichotomous categories could obscure the existence of further heterogeneity
when applying such a distinction to genetics based on environmental and socio-cultural factors
we implicitly assume that it is not confounded by inter-population differences in effective size
growth rate and timing or extent of gene flow reduction
current knowledge on human isolates cannot help us understand whether this is consistent with the patterning of genetic diversity
the lack of recombination limits the power of these genetic systems in the detection of signatures of genetic isolation in different historical and demographic conditions
the comparative study of open and isolated populations may be performed in wider transects with less confounding factors than in other continental areas
Here we present a study of 24 European populations, nine of which were newly genotyped using the GenoChip 2.0 array24
We compare the distribution of intra- and inter-population measures of variation in isolated and open populations in order to understand to what extent the discrete open and isolated dichotomous categories correspond to the way in which their genomic diversity is structured
Labels as in Table 1. Maps available from Wikipedia Common web page (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Blank_political_map_Europe_in_2006_WF.svg?uselang=it#filelinks) were modified using Adobe Photoshop CS6 software
Regarding the selection of open populations
we considered the following three criteria: (i) geographic proximity with the isolated population dataset; (ii) geographic coverage of the European continent; (iii) sample size of at least 15 individuals
Boxplots of (A) Average homozygosity over loci (B) Inter-locus variance (C) Average number of RoHs (D) Average total length of RoHs (E) Average intra-population pairwise IBS (F) Average population IBD blocks sharing (G) Average length of linkage blocks
for standard deviation (the tests of the last two statistics were performed excluding the outlier values)
A less intense but noticeable signal was observed for North Sardinia
which are the only remaining populations with a proportion of significant pairwise comparisons above 50%
(A) Scatter plot of the first two principal components. (B) Plot of the factor scores for the first and second principal components. Labels as in Table 1
White circles and bars represent point estimates and 95% confidence interval, respectively. Abbreviations as in Table 1
For each population at any given time since isolation, the upper and lower boundaries of Ne were obtained assuming the initial inbreeding coefficients to be equal to the highest and lowest values observed among open populations, respectively. References for time since isolation (indicated by arrows) are reported in Supplementary Text S1
(A) Heatmap of pairwise genetic distances (R package Pheatmap)
Populations are clustered according to a complete hierarchical approach (B) Deviation of the average genetic distances from those predicted by an isolation by distance model in open populations (see Materials and Methods for more details)
Plot of the first and second dimensions of the Multidimensional scaling analysis (A)
Plot of the third and fourth dimensions (B)
with migration arrows coloured according to their weight (C)
A high level of genetic drift can be observed for the entire Sardinian branch
even more pronounced for single German-speaking islands of Sappada
the Cimbrians from Lessinia are more closely related to the Northern Italians and are located in the tree upstream to all northern and western European populations
Basques and Orcadians cluster on a geographic basis with Spain and close to British and Norwegians
Evidence of inward migration events involving our isolated populations was limited to the root of mainland Sardinians (from Africa)
Sappada and Timau (from a population ancestral to the Polish and Norwegians) and Basques (from the ancestral population of Sardinians)
variation among isolates was also higher for the second principal component scores
which was found to be significantly correlated with effective size of isolates (R2 = 0.620
These results prompt a discussion of three different points
the principal component analysis helped disentangle the effects of the different forces that have shaped the genome of isolates
the analysis seems to indicate that most of their heterogeneity reflects variable intensities of drift and inbreeding
rather than their size or the time since isolation as suggested by historical sources
Taking the score of the first principal component as a means to rank populations according to their degree of isolation
Sappada and Basques were found to be the most isolated
Carloforte and Sulcis Iglesiente were the least
despite the much longer time since isolation compared to German speaking islands
Sardinian populations seem to have maintained a certain homogeneity due to their larger effective population size which
could have weakened the effects of genetic drift and inbreeding
This could account for their lower variation of intra-population diversity measures
evidenced in the first principal component
We were able to find the same pattern over a wide continental range
regardless of the presence of isolates in the dataset
implying that they do not depart significantly from what is to be expected under isolation by distance
The only way to pinpoint a difference for some isolates was by considering specific MDS dimensions
which highlight a more pronounced scattering among individuals from Sauris
these are also the populations in which we noticed the highest levels of inter-individual variation
This discrepancy between genetic systems may be explained by the smaller effective size and the higher mutation rate of unilinear markers
The former feature makes variation of mtDNA and Y chromosome more prone to the effects of genetic drift
while the latter means they can be hit by mutations even after relatively recent population splits
we gain new insights into the genomic diversity of European populations that have been subject to linguistic and geographic barriers to gene flow
We were able to shed more light on their heterogeneity
challenge the generalized view of isolates as units that originated from small founding groups
and reveal that genomic patterns of intra-population variation in open and isolated populations are distributed along a continuum
We believe that there are two possible avenues to follow up these first results
a comparison of the structure of open and isolated populations using whole genome sequences would provide a complete representation of their genomic diversity
extending comparisons to geographical contexts other than Europe will help us understand to what extent the observed patterns may be appropriate to isolates in other continental or regional scenarios
we hope this first study can reach its own target: in making us more aware of the value of human population isolates to understand how the interplay of environmental
We assembled the genome-wide SNP chip data of 561 healthy unrelated adult individuals from 24 European populations
New genotype data were obtained for 211 subjects from three areas: (i) Sardinia (Benetutti
Sulcis Iglesiente); (ii) German-speaking linguistic islands of the eastern Alps (Sappada
Timau and Cimbrians from Lessinia); (iii) the Aosta province
in the Val d’Aosta region (north-western Italy)
Only individuals with grandparents born in the same geographic area of sampling were enrolled in the study
Informed consent was obtained for all subjects
All methods were carried out in accordance with Italian Law (Decreto Legislativo della Repubblica Italiana
All experimental protocols were approved by the Bioethic Committee of the Azienda Ospedaliera Universitaria Pisana (Pisa
This index represents the total length of the shared IBD blocks averaged over the number of possible pairs of individuals
IBS values were estimated using PLINK v1.9 (–distance ibs option)
this option produces a lower-triangular tab-delimited text file with pairwise IBS between all individuals in the dataset
we extracted the values calculated between pairs of individuals belonging to the same population in order to obtain the intra-population pairwise IBS
Blocks in linkage disequilibrium were calculated by using –blocks option (default settings) in PLINK v1.9
We used the –hardy option in PLINK v1.9 to obtain the average observed heterozygosity (het) per population and the inter-locus variance between all pairs of individuals
calculated as the square root of the standard deviation
Homozygosity was calculated as hom = (1 − het)
The Levene test for the equality of variances was performed with the R software package Car54
a termination criterion set to stop when the log-likelihood increases by less than ε = 10−4 between iterations and the quasi-Newton convergence acceleration method with q = 3 secant conditions)
We applied unsupervised clustering analysis to the whole sample set
exploring the hypothesis of K = 1 to 10 clusters
We assessed cross-validation errors for each value of K using the ADMIXTURE’s Cross Validation procedure
MDS analysis was performed using PLINK v1.9 (–distance-matrix option)
The information carried by each dimension was assessed by calculating the ratio of their respective eigenvalues compared to the sum of all eigenvalues
To account for the fact that nearby SNPs are not independent
we grouped them together in windows of 500 SNPs using the -k flag
We ran Treemix with an increasing number of migration events
Runs with m comprised between 5 and 10 yielded comparable tree topologies and
since a higher number of migrations only partly improved the overall goodness of fit we chose to display m = 5 following a parsimonious approach
In order to control for the effects of geographical proximity
we calculated the deviation of any observed genetic distance from the one predicted by the regression line obtained for geographic and genetic distances of open populations
We reported estimated Ne with 95% (parametric) confidence intervals
where ΔF stands for the difference between the inbreeding coefficient estimated for each population and its hypothetical value at the time of population split
The latter parameter was assumed to range between the highest and lowest inbreeding coefficients observed among open populations
Accession codes: All data are available at the Zenodo Database (https://zenodo.org/) with accession number: 10.5281/zenodo.50114
Overcoming the dichotomy between open and isolated populations using genomic data from a large European dataset
Publisher's note: Springer Nature remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations
Isolated populations and complex disease gene identification
Using population isolates in genetic association studies
Genetic structure in contemporary south Tyrolean isolated populations revealed by analysis of y-chromosome
Paternal and maternal lineages in the Balkans show a homogeneous landscape over linguistic barriers
Migration rates and genetic structure of two Hungarian ethnic groups in Transylvania
New genetic evidence supports isolation and drift in the Ladin communities of the south Tyrolean Alps but not an ancient origin in the middle east
Detecting genetic isolation in human populations: A study of European language minorities
Linkage disequilibrium mapping in isolated populations: The example of Finland revisited
Gene mapping in isolated populations: New roles for old friends
Linkage disequilibrium in isolated populations: Finland and a young sub-population of Kuusamo
Magnitude and distribution of linkage disequilibrium in population isolates and implications for genome-wide association studies
Isolated populations as treasure troves in genetic epidemiology: The case of the Basques
Genetic variation in the Sorbs of eastern Germany in the context of broader European genetic diversity
Small effective population size and genetic homogeneity in the Val Borbera isolate
Extensive genome-wide autozygosity in the population isolates of Daghestan
The Kalash genetic isolate: Ancient divergence
Genetic characterization of northeastern Italian population isolates in the context of broader European genetic diversity
Correlation between genetic and geographic structure in Europe
Anisotropic isolation by distance: The main orientations of human genetic differentiation
The GenoChip: A new tool for genetic anthropology
International, S. Ethnologue: Languages of the world. http://www.ethnologue.com (2016)
Runs of Homozygosity in European populations
Genomic runs of Homozygosity record population history and consanguinity
Genomic patterns of Homozygosity in worldwide human populations
Length distributions of identity by descent reveal fine-scale demographic history
Multidimensional scaling by optimizing goodness of fit to a nonmetric hypothesis
Inference of population splits and mixtures from genome-wide Allele frequency data
Global distribution of genomic diversity underscores rich complex history of continental human populations
Use of population isolates for mapping complex traits
Minority populations as genetic isolates: the interpretation of inbreeding results In Isolation
Sardinians genetic background explained by runs of Homozygosity and Genomic regions under positive selection
Dissecting the genetic make-up of north-east Sardinia using a large set of haploid and autosomal markers
Y-chromosome based evidence for Pre-Neolithic origin of the genetically homogeneous but diverse Sardinian population: Inference for association scans
Genome-wide scan with nearly 700 000 SNPs in two Sardinian sub-populations suggests some regions as candidate targets for positive selection
High differentiation among Eight villages in a secluded area of Sardinia revealed by genome-wide high density SNPs analysis
La comunità linguistica In Isole di Cultura: saggi sulle minoranze storiche germaniche in Italia (ed
La formazione dell’isola linguistica in Isole di cultura (Prezzi
Analysis of a genetic isolate: The case of Carloforte (Italy)
Evolution of marital structure in 20 Sardinian villages from 1800 to 1974
An Icelandic example of the impact of population structure on association studies
Genome-wide analysis of single nucleotide Polymorphisms Uncovers population structure in northern Europe
geographic and genetic isolation: a collaborative study of Italian populations
PLINK: A tool set for whole-genome association and population-based linkage analyses
Journal of the American Statistical Association
Improving the accuracy and efficiency of identity-by-descent detection in population data
Abraham’s children in the genome era: Major Jewish Diaspora populations comprise distinct genetic clusters with shared middle eastern ancestry
An R companion to applied regression – 2nd edition
Analysis of a complex of statistical variables into principal components
The ade4 package: Implementing the Duality diagram for ecologists
Fast model-based estimation of ancestry in unrelated individuals
The genome-wide structure of the Jewish people
Ldne: A program for estimating effective population size from data on linkage disequilibrium
NeEstimator v2: Re-implementation of software for the estimation of contemporary effective population size (Ne) from genetic data
Linkage disequilibrium estimates of contemporary N e using highly variable genetic markers: A largely untapped resource for applied conservation and evolution
Conservation of Small Populations: Effective Population Sizes
and the 50/500 Rule In An introduction to methods and models in ecology
doi: 10.1002/9780470015902.a0005173.pub2 (2008)
Fourth sociolinguistic survey 2006: [Basque Autonomous Community
A genetic Atlas of human Admixture history
Download references
We are greatly indebted to all the blood donors
We would also like to thank Marcella Benedetti (Municipality of Sappada)
Nino Pacilè and Lucia Protto (Municipality of Sauris)
Ottaviano Matiz and Velia Plozner (Timau) for their valuable assistance in the sample collection and for their warm hospitality
This study was supported by a 2013 National Geographic Society Genographic 2.0 grant to ST
The survey in the Eastern Italian Alps was also funded by the Università di Roma “La Sapienza” (ref
C26A13HSHB) and the Istituto Italiano di Antropologia
The study was also supported by the European Research Council ERC-2011-AdG 295733 grant (Langelin) to DP
Giovanni Destro Bisol and Sergio Tofanelli: These authors contributed equally to this work
Cinzia Battaggia & Giovanni Destro Bisol
Paolo Anagnostou & Giovanni Destro Bisol
Dipartimento di Scienze della Natura del Territorio
Dipartimento di Scienze della Vita e dell’Ambiente
Extracted and prepared DNA for genomic analysis: C.B.
Contributed reagents/materials/analysis tools: S.T.
Read and approved the final manuscript: all authors
The authors declare no competing financial interests
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slaves to African pirates and finally tuna fisherman
today running one of the Mediterranean's last real
But they have never really turned their hands to tourism
which is why even many Italians have never heard of this tiny island off the south coast of Sardinia
where blue-and-white ferries pull up so close to the cafes that the harbour master can direct fruit and veg trucks onto the quay with one hand and take sips of espresso with the other
Neither do Italians know about the island's secret coves or its handkerchief-sized yellow sand beaches
carved out of chunks of pink volcanic rock that rise up into dramatic cliffs to hold back the pulsing turquoise surf
'If they sent in a couple of hotshots from Rimini to turn this place around
no one would go to the Maldives any more,' said the man waiting to rent out mopeds down one of Carloforte's narrow balconied streets
streets where tourist trinket shops remain heavily outnumbered by bakeries
the ancient zinc counter where slices of the local farinata - a delicious crispy pancake made from chickpea flour - are served straight from the oven
Farinata is a key to understanding why even the Italians who know Carloforte cannot figure it out
who speak a Ligurian dialect and put pesto on their tuna
They are the descendents of Ligurian fishermen who settled an island further south off the Tunisian coast in the 16th century to hunt for coral until declining stocks and increasing demands for tribute from a Tunisian ruler convinced them in 1738 to take up an offer from the King of Sardinia to transfer to San Pietro
The island was handily placed for the tuna shoals that stream down the five-mile stretch of water between the island and Sardinia
Trouble followed in 1798 when Tunisian raiders took 900 slaves
But since then the Tunisians have not been back while the tuna keep on coming
when they are lured down a deadly corridor of nets to la mattanza - the killing - a spectacle so gory the name has been borrowed to describe a mafia massacre
A ballet of boats and nets edge the shoal into a space the size of a tennis court
The water froths red as men walk the nets plunging hooks into the space behind the jaws of thrashing tuna twice their size
and then heave them over the side of a boat
locals tremble at the thought of the factory ships that lurk out to sea
hoovering up and suffocating tuna to death in their holds
reducing stocks to the point where Carloforte is one of only a handful of commercial mattanze left in Italy
Islanders know how to cook every last scrap of the fish
which fetches up to €150 a kilo and explains why the fishermen celebrate every time a female is caught
'It's a pig with fins,' says rising local chef Luigi Pomata at Ristorante da Nicolo on the seafront
where dishes such as tuna tartare with a purée of wild celery and green apple now attract the likes of Giorgio Armani and the big-yacht crowd who prowl the Mediterranean looking for new thrills
The town has responded to the new high-end trade by restoring a handful of hotels including the Hieracon
a stucco palazzo once belonging to the Danish consul which now offers a few high-ceilinged rooms overlooking the fig and palm trees that sweep down the quayside between the busy ferries and the pastel seafront houses
the trick is to rent one of the whitewashed
tiled-roof houses that dot the 19-square- mile island
hidden down sandy lanes on gorse slopes that ooze the scent of liquorice
eucalyptus and juniper and command views to cliff tops that crumble away to transparent seas
Houses such as that belonging to Carlo Maria Perfetti
one of few Carloforte converts from the mainland
Perfetti was so enamoured of the island he planted a vineyard and never went home
He now swaps bottles of his vermentino for capers with his neighbour and supplies his nectar-like passito to be drunk with warm sheep's cheese and honey at Dau Bobba
a restaurant by the old salt pans on the edge of town
Beyond Dau Bobba starts a string of miniature beaches and rock pools
each one offering different opportunities for snorkelling
high diving or just lying flat out in the shallows
when there is no such thing as an empty stretch of sand anywhere in the whole of Italy
but in June and early July the sun-beaten bar at La Bobba beach is a sleepy gem
offering cold bottles of Peroni and sandwiches stuffed with slices of salty
a psychedelic reworking of the Devil's Causeway
where nature seems to have stacked up flat rocks in precarious piles
to make room for green plunge pools and deep
water-filled canyons inches from the crashing waves
is a masterpiece so well hidden down a labyrinth of cliff-top lanes most maps do not bother to mention it at all
hewn by waves out of a flat promontory of black lava
gently fed by a narrow channel from the sea
you can only hope the hotshots from Rimini take their time arriving on their yachts
Fly to Cagliari with British Airways or Easyjet, rent a car and drive to Porto Vesme or Calasetta to catch the car ferry to San Pietro run by Saremar (www.saremar.it)
Doubles cost from €110 at Hotel Hieracon (http://nuke.hotelhieracon.com) and from €120 at the Hotel Riviera (www.hotelriviera-carloforte.com)
call the tourist office on 00 39 0781 854009
which keeps a list of available properties
This is the archive of The Observer up until 21/04/2025
The Observer is now owned and operated by Tortoise Media
warm hospitality and a sense of having discovered something a bit different
The best beaches in Italy to visit this summer
104 beautiful pictures of Italy
The most romantic hotels in Italy
Forget the canned seafood and seared steaks, it's time to embrace eating fish from top to tail, starting with cured tuna hearts. Atlantic bluefin tuna are a fish of gigantic proportions and have equally massive health benefits. A great source of protein, Fishwatch.gov explains this fatty fish is also rich in selenium
Sardinians have adopted some creative ways to use tonno rosso
Curing is a no-brainer when it comes to conserving this precious catch. After removing the tuna heart, the organ isn't sliced or cut into pieces, but rather left whole. According to Caviar Star
it's then covered in sea salt and pressed with weights
which allows the salt to work its way into the muscular tissue — only after 20 days of dry curing is the tuna heart ready
The result is a plum-colored steak with an incredibly unique
Given that cured tuna hearts can pack some fishy flavor, High End Food Store recommends using the delicacy sparingly
either sliced and seasoned simply with olive oil or lemon juice
It can also add some punchy dimension to recipes when shaved over pasta and seafood dishes or into soups and sauces
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Discover the culture
ancient sights and beautiful beaches of Sardinia on a road trip © loreanto / Shutterstock
The Mediterranean island of Sardinia is home to some of Italy's most off-the-beaten-track beaches
archaeological sites and culinary experiences
many of which are inaccessible by public transport
you can experience Sardinia's hidden treasures at a pace that pleases you
though access to the most sought-after mountain and beach destinations sometimes requires travel on narrow
curvy and/or unpaved roads – a perfect opportunity to slow down and enjoy the ride
Between the mountain outpost of Nuoro and the stunning Golfo di Orosei coastline lies a hauntingly beautiful landscape of limestone plateaus and deep gorges known as Supramonte
Planning tip: There are no services between Dorgali and Baunei
so fuel up before heading south on this lonely 50km (31 miles) mountain road
Scattered about the Sardinian landscape are thousands of mysterious fortified Bronze Age settlements and burial sites
remnants of Sardinia's ancient Nuragic culture
which thrived here for nearly two millennia before the Roman conquest
Tour the classics on this two-day north-to-south jaunt through Sardinia's interior
The imposing ruins here are a maze of conical towers
courtyards and narrow passageways framed by massive stone-hewn walls
the Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) has long been a playground for the rich and famous
a road trip is the next best way to experience the limpid waters and spellbinding coastlines of Sardinia's northern tip
a mesmerizing expanse of translucent aquamarine waters
a short drive returns you to civilization at Alghero
Detour: From Castelsardo, don't miss the 5km (3 miles) detour southeast to see the bizarre elephant-shaped rock formation known as La Roccia dell'Elefante
Sardinian culinary treats fuel this weekend jaunt from Oristano to Bosa
North of Oristano, the RAMSAR-protected Stagno di Cabras is one of Europe's most important wetlands. The lagoon's mixed salt- and freshwater habitat is ideal for watching birdlife, including the pink flamingos that congregate here year-round. Stop in at Cabras's Museo Civico to see the impressive Mont'e Prama giants
boxers and warriors dating back three millennia and unearthed nearby in the 1970s
and the cliff-backed surfers' paradise of Capo Mannu
including the bitter Corbezzolo and Asphodel
against the backdrop of San Leonardo's beautiful 12th-century church
reserve ahead for the memorable Sunday afternoon feast at Agriturismo Montiferru
abounding in local delicacies such as wild mushrooms
a traditional pastry stuffed with ricotta and orange peel and drenched in local honey
Southwestern Sardinia is a treasure trove of splendid beaches
The Strada Panoramica della Costa del Sud (SP71) between Chia and Porto di Teulada makes a delightful day trip from Cagliari
but it's well worth extending this into a longer journey with overnight stays in Carloforte and Iglesias
Half an hour south of Cagliari, the ancient Roman mosaics and columns springing from the sands at Nora are the gateway to the Strada Panoramica Costa del Sud
a coast-hugging stretch of road that dips and dives past a string of sparkling coves
Highlights along this 25km (15.5 miles) stretch include Su Giudeu
a sinuous crescent of white sand lapped by crystalline turquoise waters
backed by towering dunes that have earned it the nickname "Sardinia's Desert." Backtrack to the charming city of Iglesias for food and accommodation before looping back to Cagliari
Detour: South of Cala Domestica, take the spur road out to Porto Flavia for a guided tour of the impressive century-old tunnels and mechanical loaders built into the cliffs here to facilitate shipping of local zinc and lead ore.
you responded in droves to our request for Italian highlights
reserved for friends and regulars – but a couple of drinks and phone calls by the barman later and we had our own bean bags in among it all
Great beers and a great crowd – next time I’ll be bringing my Cardiff City scarf to add to their collection!Anya
View image in fullscreenFestival of the Maggiolata in Lucignano
possessing all the essentials of an Italian hill town: imposing gates
There’s a Medici-era fortress nearby; a church rebuilt by Renaissance architect/writer Giorgio Vasari; plus outstanding olive oil extolled by the likes of Strabo and Pliny the Elder
The time to go is during the Maggiolata spring festival
with flower-bedecked floats and a large tent where folks sit at communal tables to enjoy grilled Chianina steaks
View image in fullscreenCol Rodella in the Dolomites above Canazei
We’d woken to those jagged spires for almost a week
This morning’s vista was across the green valley to the shark fin of the Sassolungo
An espresso on the piazza in Canazei was for fuel
Then we headed for the Col Rodella gondola
It’s a gateway to another world nearly 2,000 metres up
where rolling meadows crash into spires of rock
and ramblers scuttle like ants across the trails
Thirteen hours of walking took us over the col and into the vast Alpe di Siusi
Tired legs were later rewarded with a wine (or 10) at the bustling Bar Oma
back in Canazei’s quaint centre.Joseph Francis
View image in fullscreenCasal dei Fichi pool and house.Four readers recommended this place this week! EdIn rural Marche, not far from the Adriatic coast, Casal dei Fichi (flats from €870 a week) is a glorious place
So beautiful and relaxing that we seldom travel far from its peaceful grounds
We might make a quick trip or two to the local market and vineyard to ensure we are well stocked for our stay
and an occasional lunch in one of the huge choice of local restaurants
for the more active there is a wide range of activities/trips that can be enjoyed
and hosts Ian and Bob are on hand to advise and assist
We can’t wait for these lockdown days to end so that we can escape to this little piece of heaven
View image in fullscreenThe Sword of San Galgano in the Montesiepi hermitage, placed there by the 12th-century knight Galgano Guidotti. Photograph: Wojciech Stróżyk/AlamyThe Abbey of San Galgano (adults €4) is a glorious ruin
but the real reason you are there is to enter the small round Rotonda chapel in the grounds
in which you will see the “real” Sword in the Stone
plunged into solid rock by the knight Galgano
The mummified arms of one would-be thief remain there as a warning
Then ponder the similarities to the Arthurian legends
View image in fullscreenReggio di Calabria’s ‘stunning and understated’ promenade
Photograph: AlamyFresh out of uni I visited Reggio di Calabria
over Ferragosto and had a transformative experience
I observed a way of life both foreign and completely sensible
Seemingly everyone spent their days taking it slow: extended families gathering at the beach
rambling along the stunning yet understated promenade (pictured)
Something clicked: it dawned on me that people live this way and I could too
Years later I briefly lived in Italy and hope to move back with my family.Nick Postorino
View image in fullscreenA focacceria in Camogli
Photograph: Toni Spagone/AlamyAs a kid I spent many family holidays in Camogli
The topography of steep mountains rising from the coast forced the locals to build upwards
creating a labyrinth of alleys and stairways
is the home of a most delicious cheesy version that has spread – like the molten cheese inside it – over the whole area
Popping into a focacceria to get a pile of freshly baked focaccia slices and sharing them was the highlight of the day.Simon Hoer
and if you need a hand on the hills and with the altitude
e-bike hire means you can manage without a car.Tony Wade
View image in fullscreenThe medieval festival in Volterra
Photograph: Wieslaw Jarek/AlamyUp the road from San Gimignano is the equally picturesque medieval town of Volterra
but without the crowds of shuffling tourists – except for one weekend in August
when the town dresses up in its medieval finery and goes back in time
musicians at every turn and pageantry to fill the eye
It is the best of Italy inasmuch as it is noisy and seemingly chaotic but enormous fun
It’s a great day out for a family or even a solo traveller
Modern currency is not accepted; you have to change your euros into the historical equivalent and you then buy your street food with this
you then use euros if you stop for a drink or a coffee in a bar.Nick Stringer
View image in fullscreenThe boating lake and temple in the gardens of Villa Borghese
Photograph: Rawdon Wyatt/AlamyWe were fortunate enough to discover a boating lake in a romantic corner of the Villa Borghese
The joy of rowing around the small lake with the person I love is a pleasure I will never forget
The sound of a harp from a nearby musician beckoned us towards the Temple of Asclepius on a small island in the middle of the lake
The statues and fountains looked so alluring
We got so close that at one point we feared one of the fountains would draw us in and engulf our boat with water
We had to row a hasty retreat in laughter just before our time was called.Roger
Trattoria Trapani on Piazza Giulio Cesare in Palermo reminded me of someone’s pantry
A young man and his father greeted us with smiles as large as mine and my mother’s hunger
To the left was the grandparents’ territory
We were given complimentary panelle (chickpea fritters)
“I get you something from my farm.” He returned moments later with a complimentary plate of juicy blood orange slices
When paying I complimented the son’s English
right?” Our no-frills Sicilian dream included plates of swordfish and spaghetti vongole for less than €7 a plate.Marth Snelling
View image in fullscreenThe Archidado Joust in Cortona. Photograph: John HellinikakisOne Saturday in June, we attended the annual Archidado Joust in Cortona
Arezzo and Subbiano perform elaborate flag-tossing routines
all accompanied by drummers and trumpeters
The celebration starts with a crossbow tournament
we witnessed a colourful and atmospheric pageant as each team performed with skill and precision
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a favorite among Italian visitors and vacationers alike
It's home to some of Italy's most stunning white-sand beaches
as well as the glamourous yachting region of the Costa Smeralda
But what you may not know is that it's also home to some of Italy's most charming villages
a hideaway in the mountains or an idyllic seaside stay
consider a visit to one of Sardinia's most beautiful villages
For more Mediterranean vacation inspiration, check out some of our most recent Italy content:
The River Temo flows through the center of the colorful village of Bosa. With the medieval Serravalle Castle (also known as the Malaspina Castle), a number of churches, a few museums and even ancient tanneries, there's plenty to do and see and this village. Plus, Bosa overlooks the sea, and there are several sandy beaches nearby
Located in the Cedrino River valley, this Medieval village is made almost entirely out of stone. Nearby, hike up Mount Tuttavista for panoramic views and to see the famed bronze Christ statue, a route that many pilgrims have trekked over the years
or there are numerous hiking and rock climbing spots around Tuttavista
Stintino is home to one of Sardinia's most popular beaches
It's a stunning strip of white sand and calm turquoise waters with views of the Torre Pelosa in the distance
But the town and port of Stintino are just as beautiful
Stintino is also known for having some of the most delectable seafood on the island
so make sure to sample some at a local restaurant -- fan favorites are the sea urchin
seaside village as Sardinia's "best-kept secret." Well
we're spilling the beans: Castelsardo is an absolutely gorgeous spot for a vacation
For the best views (you can even spot Corsica on a clear day) hike up to the top of the hill to visit the Castello dei Doria
a giant rock formation shaped like -- you guessed it -- an elephant
Did you know you can ski in Sardinia
The village of Fonni is near some of the highest peaks in Sardinia apt for skiing during the winter season
explore the town and its many painted wall murals
there are plenty of hiking trails and wooded areas to get some fresh air
Carloforte is located on the small islet of San Pietro, just off the southwestern coast of Sardinia
you'll experience a very traditional Sardinian village experience: colorful buildings
ancient churches and even abandoned salt pans
Make sure to sample the tuna when visiting -- Carloforte has a yearly tuna festival and competition
An easy day trip from the nearby city of Cagliari, Pula is best known for its nearby archaeological ruins of Nora that date back to the 4th century BC. Back in Pula, enjoy specialty dishes like the sweet and salty mixture of figs and ham in a lively square such as the Piazza del Popolo. There are many sandy beaches around Pula, too, as well as pine forests with walking and hiking trails
Calasetta's white sand beaches and bustling town atmosphere are perfect for a relaxing vacation
If you get tired of the expansive Sottotorre Beach
visit Calasetta's Contemporary Art Museum (MACC)
a stone tower located at Calasetta's highest point
La Maddalena is a village located on the La Maddalena Islands just off the north coast of Sardinia. These islands not only have some of the most breathtaking beaches in Europe (if you squint
you might think you're sprawled on the fine pearly sands of the Caribbean)
but Maddalena village is also surprisingly picturesque
Check out the Garibaldi statue in the harbor and the Santa Maria Maddalena Church when you tire of exploring the island's natural coves and beaches
Known as the "village of murals," this UNESCO World Heritage site dates back to prehistoric times. Orgosolo has hundreds of murals painted around town, and the best way to see them is simply to wander around and discover them. The mountainous village also has lots of hiking and walking trails leading directly from the town into the woods and nearby hills
Overlooking the Strait of Bonifacio, this seaside village is best visited during shoulder season -- you'll avoid the massive influx of tourists that summer sees
but also enjoy the lovely weather that May
make sure to pay a visit to the Longosardo Tower
a 16th-century structure built by one of Spain's former kings
Alghero is really a city, but its historical center feels like its own tiny, quaint village. With a massively long stretch of city beach, it will be a toss-up to decide whether to have a day of sand and sun or roam the old city's stone walls (yes, there are seven towers guarding them). The fortified walls are also excellent spots for viewing the sunset.
Sardinia is famous for its beaches, but that's not all this Italian island has. With many tiny seaside villages, mountain collectives and even ski towns, exploring some of these lesser-visited towns is the way to go.
For more beautiful European village inspiration, check out these articles:
(Feature image courtesy of Gian Luca Salis / EyeEm / Getty)
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Have you ever entered a tuna fishery? From the 3 to the 5 June you have the opportunity to do this by participating in Tunea, the festival that animates the ancient ones abandoned tuna traps di Carlofortein of Sardinia, reopened to the public for the first time. Book the ferry saving up with PLEINAIRCLUB
In the seasonal period in which the tuna swim in schools towards the PIAM traps off the north coast ofIsland of San Pietro
the community of Carloforte thus enters the disused spaces of the ancient tuna fisheries
Il 3nd June an exhibition in the locality opens the event The tip
born from the co-design laboratory carried out with the population during the month of April by the architect Patrizia Di Monte
who will mark the access to the area with a suggestive architectural gesture
an afternoon walk along the coast to the internal spaces of the Tonnara
followed by meetings and moments of sharing in the following days
concluding with the group's re-elaboration of the ideas collected during the process
The work is made with nets used for tuna fishing
kindly provided by the Tonnara Piam which is still in operation
creating a metaphorical parallel with the neighboring aquatic spaces where tuna fishing is carried out using traditional methods
a large treasure hunt will take place along the entire island of San Pietro
which will involve the Carlofortina community and ends with the installation The Sea Chamber
located on the seafront along the shoreline of the Antiche Tonnare di Carloforte
created using the optical principles of the Camera Obscura
consists of a nine-square-meter room that will stimulate an immersive experience of the surrounding seascape
the installation will offer an ecological perspective on those places
suggesting to the viewer the point of view of one of the symbols of Carloforte: the Thunnus Thynnus or Running Tuna
which for centuries has been brought to the famous Chamber of Death from being caught and fished according to the traditional tuna fishing system
will also liven up all the days of the Festival
from 18pm to 20pm dance performance Calar tuna fishery – Studio #1
an open dance workshop consisting of choreographed movement sequences
guided improvisation and exercises accessible even to non-dancers
The participants perform a dance above and below the sea: men
fish and meteorological-marine agents together to relive and tell the extraordinary story of the tuna fisheries of the Mediterranean.
All events are free and open to the public. Info and program on: www.tunea.it
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The rugged Mediterranean island has a cuisine all its own
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The first thing to know about traveling to Sardinia is that one trip is not going to cut it
Visitors tend to underestimate how much there is to take in on this 9,300-square-mile island just west of the Italian peninsula
rugged land of wild prickly pears and myrtle bushes set against brilliant blue backdrops
and people as welcoming as the Mediterranean
with regional styles that vary by landscape
meals revolve around meat and cheese; along the coasts and on the smaller peripheral islands
it’s all about seafood — oceanic delicacies like mullet bottarga in Cabras or tuna ventresca in Carloforte
are English-language menus (that’s a good thing)
we’ve compiled a list of Sardinia’s staple dishes
which should help guide you through the basics
As far as tasting them all during your doubtlessly far-too-short visit
Perfect for breakfast, though entirely acceptable any time of day, these small pies are filled with a mix of ricotta, saffron, and lemon, bound by a thin collar of crisp puff pastry. Originally an Easter dessert, they’re now found year-round at almost any local bakery. Keep an eye out for an equally tasty variation called casadinas, made with young pecorino sardo instead of ricotta. Where to get it: Biscottificio Collu
San Sperate (also available at local grocery stores)
Sardinia has a long tradition of cooking snails, especially in the North area around the third-largest city of Sassari, where the cuisine is inspired by the countryside. Here you’ll find snails prepared a number of different ways, most commonly simmered with a spicy tomato sauce or sauteed with oil, garlic, parsley, and breadcrumbs. Where to get it: Le Due Lanterne
Stale bread is the key ingredient for this local dish, which, despite the name, looks a lot more like lasagna than soup. Slices of stale bread are layered with lamb broth and fresh cow’s milk cheese called casizolu, then finished with grated pecorino. Where to get it: Il Purgatorio
With roots in the south and central parts of the island, this petite pasta made with durum wheat semolina flour, water, salt, and a pinch of saffron is sometimes called Sardinian gnocchi because of its shape (I think they look more like cavatelli, though). Malloreddus usually comes tossed in a slow-cooked ragu of pork sausages, tomatoes, and a heap of grated pecorino sardo. Where to get it: Ristorante Italia
When is time for dessert, order this giant, deep-fried semolina dumpling filled with fresh sour pecorino cheese and lemon zest, traditionally served with bitter miele amaro (also known as corbezzolo, or arbutus’ honey). Where to get it: Pastificio Vito Arra
The Catalan influence on Sardinia (particularly the Northwestern area of Alghero) can be seen in the popularity of lobster stew, which is also a classic in that region of Spain. They keep it simple here: Female lobsters, complete with their red roe, are quickly steamed and then served with a sauce of tomato and onions and a quick emulsion of olive oil, lemon, and black pepper. Where to get it: La Lepanto
Viviana Devoto is a San Francisco based writer and journalist
she reports about food and restaurants trends for American and Italian publications
The freshest news from the food world every day
Regala o regalati un abbonamento al Giornale della Vela cartaceo + digitale e a soli 69 euro l’anno hai la rivista a casa e in più la leggi su PC
Navigo da sempre e vivo in barca a tempo pieno da 23 anni
Nel lontano 2000 ho iniziato a costruire la mia prima Kamana
il nome deriva dalla fusione di due parole e significa “piacere dell’anima”
Il nome Kamana non rappresenta solo il nome di tutte le barche su cui ho navigato
per me e per le tante persone che negli anni ci seguono
è diventata una parola che racchiude in sé la mia filosofia di navigazione: il piacere della vela estrema alla portata di tutti
Conclusosi quell’ambizioso progetto a bordo di Kamana ho fatto una breve sosta sulla terraferma per venderla
durante quei mesi ha fatto breccia nel mio cuore di marinaio
anche la persona che avrei sposato da lì a nove mesi e con cui sarei partito per un nuovo giro del mondo
Assieme a Giulia e a bordo di Kamana 2 (uno splendido Solaris 72 di nome “Plum”)
ho deciso di seguire una rotta simile al passato
volendo però realizzare un progetto più articolato e che prevedesse diversi soci finanziatori
Il programma ha avuto un ottimo successo e per otto anni abbiamo navigato gli oceani in lungo e in largo: la Groenlandia coi suoi giganti di ghiaccio
la riserva integrale delle isole Galapagos
gli arcipelaghi isolati e incontaminati della papua Nuova Guinea e della Papua Indonesiana
il Myanmar e molte altre mete meravigliose…
Nel frattempo nel 2016 è nato il nostro primogenito Kai
All’età di due mesi ha raggiunto assieme a Giulia la barca
e ha iniziato a vivere a tempo pieno a bordo con noi
L’anno dopo abbiamo deciso di rientrare in Mediterraneo per mettere in vendita la barca e abbiamo scelto di tornare provando a farlo attraverso il passaggio a Nordovest
Potrei dilungarmi in infiniti racconti su questa meravigliosa avventura… sicuramente il fatto di avere avuto a bordo ben cinque bambini
è ciò che ha reso l’impresa del passaggio una vera e propria esperienza di vita
Alla fine del passaggio abbiamo potuto dire di essere stati i primi italiani nella storia a completare il passaggio “contromano”
Rientrati in Italia abbiamo scoperto che l’impresa del passaggio a Nordovest ci aveva regalato qualcosa di molto più importante di un primato… aspettavamo infatti il nostro secondo figlio Aua (il suo nome in onore delle tradizioni del popolo inuit)
che senza dubbio erano il meglio che il mercato internazionale potesse offrire per quella tipologia di barca
I multiscafi mi sono sempre piaciuti nonostante non li avessi mai presi in considerazione perché non si conciliavano al meglio con le mete e le navigazioni impegnative che hanno caratterizzato le nostre avventure fino al 2017
Per un giro del mondo a livello tropicale non c’è dubbio che siano mezzi molto efficienti
per non parlare della comodità della vita di bordo nelle andature portanti
Prima di scegliere ho valutato diversi catamarani
ma non sono riuscito a trovare un compromesso interessante: i catamarani sono o molto improntati al charter
e quindi poco interessanti per le nostre esigenze
oppure studiati più per le performance e quindi con volumi interni piuttosto ridotti ma costi molto alti
che ho sempre preferito rispetto ai catamarani soprattutto per il modo di navigare più simile al monoscafo
sono in linea di massima più performanti e sicuri
ma in realtà fino all’uscita del Neel 51 non erano ancora stati progettati dei mezzi che avessero gli spazi interni necessari per il nostro progetto
Il concetto di Neel mi ha da subito colpito sulla carta ma
non riuscivo a trovare informazioni tecniche sufficienti e/o prove a mare fatte da professionisti
La soluzione per capire se potesse andare bene per i nostri scopi o meno è stata di andare a provarlo personalmente a La Rochelle
Dopo appena un’ora di navigazione mi è stato chiaro che stavo timonando quella che sarebbe diventata Kamana 3 (che abbiamo chiamato Kamana 3.3 per via dei suoi tre scafi)
Ho avuto la fortuna di poter collaborare con il cantiere e intervenire in vari aspetti dell’imbarcazione
visto l’uso che ne avremmo fatto ho apportato alcune modifiche al modello proposto
Vele e albero/rigging sono stati valutati per le miglior performance e il miglior passaggio sull’onda
ma la vera differenza è stata quella di cercare di mantenere la barca il più semplice possibile
con svariati accorgimenti sull’impiantistica e scelte di materiali specifici che abbassassero drasticamente le ore di lavoro di manutenzione
In questo momento siamo a bordo da oltre 9 mesi
abbiamo navigato oltre 10.000 miglia e posso dire che tutto quello che avevamo sperato
in termini di efficienza e comodità di vita a bordo
Sul tema comodità vorrei spendere qualche parola in più… sicuramente ci aspettavamo un cambio radicale rispetto al monoscafo
ma le nostre aspettative sono state ampiamente superate
a maggior ragione con due bambini piccoli che corrono di qua e di là
Direi che alle volte ci si dimentica quasi di essere su una barca
Se le condizioni del mare cambiano e si naviga controvento in un mare piuttosto formato con onda di prua
Ma se si hanno a disposizione le tempistiche giuste
con uno studio adeguato delle previsioni metereologiche
è veramente difficile trovarsi in condizioni complicate
il mezzo è assolutamente in grado di affrontare anche queste condizioni
Le tappe che abbiamo fatto sono quelle classiche
anche se dopo una sosta nella bellissima Carloforte abbiamo fatto rotta su Palma de Mallorca e siamo stati bloccati otto giorni per un susseguirsi di tempeste con intensità fuori dal comune per quel periodo
Dopo Palma
approfittando di una finestra meteo favorevole
abbiamo deciso di navigare oltre Gibilterra
a nord dello stretto di Gibilterra dalla parte oceanica
Durante quella navigazione il nostro piccolo Aua ci ha regalato una grande emozione…ha mosso i suoi primi passi tra un’onda e l’altra attraversando l’intera dinette per correre tra le braccia di Giulia
Da Ragusa e Nassau
fortunatamente non abbiamo avuto nessuna sorpresa
impegno e tutta la mia esperienza al fine di preparare la barca al meglio prima di salpare per godermi poi completamente il vento e la navigazione
seppur sia un’esperienza vissuta più e più volte
mi affascina e mi emoziona come la prima volta…
tutti i consigli di Enrico e Giulia per la vita di bordo…
Sostienici anche su Barche a Motore e Top Yacht Design
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Avviso ai naviganti in Adriatico: in Croazia sono cambiate alcune regole che riguardano i diportisti
dal 29 marzo 2025 ha infatti adottato un nuovo regolamento di sicurezza in
Il SoloSailor Andrea Lodolo ha appena superato in Atlantico il waypoint a 2000 miglia dalla sua partenza da Brest
necessario per la qualifica alla Golden Globe Race 2026
I consigli del SoloSailor Andrea Lodolo (la sua storia ve l’abbiamo raccontata
Il navigatore italiano Alessandro Tosetti era impegnato nel “Global Solo Challenge” il giro del mondo in solitario
quando nelle acque dello Stretto di Gibilterra la sua barca “Aspra Sail” è stata assalita da un branco di orche
Un anniversario che celebra la nascita di un mito assoluto della vela e della navigazione oceanica
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Crazy!’ A woman points at our bikes and down towards the hill we’ve just climbed
and disappears over the rise. What she didn’t know is that we’re 150 kilometres (km) into a 210km
but the views more than made up for the challenge of today’s 550 metres of climbing.
Today is day four of our UTracks self-guided cycle and it’s been the most scenic
which is close to the southernmost point of Sardinia
and there’s no mistaking you’re in the Mediterranean.
Cliffs cleave into emerald waters and bathers lay on sugar-white sand under multi-coloured umbrellas
While the northern part of the island – known as a playground for the mega-wealthy with plenty of flash resorts – can be heaving with tourists in the peak season
making it the perfect place for those who prefer to pedal than pose on beaches
We start our Italian sojourn in Rome to get us in the right time zone
and then make the one-hour flight to Sardinia’s main airport
it’s a roughly one-hour drive to the starting point of our cycle
which is connected by a causeway to Sardinia.
We drive past pink salt ponds and bucolic countryside
but the pièce de résistance comes when we check into our room at MuMA Hostel
where you can lay in bed and listen to the lap of the ocean and watch boats bob in the sparkling sea. That afternoon we jump on our bikes to test them out and acquaint ourselves with this picturesque village lined with pastel-coloured houses
where the smell of salt and fresh seafood fills the air.
we have breakfast al fresco and load our pannier bags to officially begin our cycle
It has maps of our rides each day of the week with information on elevation
miles and a description of where we’re going
making it easy for any level of cyclist to use.
taking us to the village of Calasetta in the far north of Sant’Antioco
where we board a ferry with our bikes to Carloforte
the only town on the island of San Pietro. This ‘island off an island off an island’ is home to about 6000 people
it is lined with pastel-coloured houses and narrow cobbled streets
We cycle off the ferry and through the main street
and do a loop of the southern part of the island past vineyards
rolling fields dotted with farmhouses and roads lined with prickly pear cacti
The cars that do pass seem to almost expect you here
Back on the ferry to Sant’Antioco we check our distance on Strava and are surprised to see what felt like a short scenic ride was actually 48 kilometres.
The following day we ride a loop around the south of Sant’Antioco
reaching the top of a hill where we take in the postcard-worthy views of Maladroxia Beach through a mass of burgundy-coloured bougainvillea
This picturesque beach is too good to pass by and we head back down the hill to take a dip in the gin-clear waters and eat gelato
forgetting we’d have to make our way back up the almost vertical road
We end the day doing 250 metres of climbing
which proves to be the perfect taster of the hills yet to come
These first few days have given us a great insight into Sardinian life
We learn that the island is closer to Africa than Italy
“closer to Spanish than Italian” and while many Italians can understand it
including a pasta specific to this region called fregola
and is often served with clams in a fresh tomato base
which seems to be the beverage of choice everywhere we go (other than Aperol spritz) and we learn to become accustomed to the slower pace of life
The next day we reluctantly farewell Sant’Antioco and MuMA Hostel
MuMA is also home to a museum and the Ceas Isola di Sant’Antioco (Environmental and Sustainability Education Centre)
so you leave filled with knowledge about the important role the master shipwrights played in this region
we’re headed away from the seaside to the hinterland of the Teulada region
We pack our pannier bags and leave our suitcases at the accommodation to follow
A blessing of a tour like this means larger bags are transported for you to your next accommodation.
We cycle alongside vast fields of farmland and then wind the narrow streets of the abandoned medieval village of Tratalias
it was abandoned in the 1980s after the creation of an artificial lake where water seeped into the homes
although there’s not a single person here when we cycle through the eerie streets.
Blink and you’ll miss the sign to this unassuming property
It’s a fixed home-cooked menu using ingredients sourced mostly from the farm
I am fascinated to learn this area is Sardinia’s newest Blue Zone
There are only five original ‘Blue Zones’ in the world (Sardinia’s central region was one of them)
and Teulada is Sardinia’s latest region to gain the accolade (November 2023)
to describe the regions where people live the longest
I head into town where I meet local historian and author
and the head of the local council’s cultural sector
who tell me it took the local council ten years to prepare for the status
But they were confident they’d achieve it.
“It’s not just that locals are living to an old age here,” Bernardini tells me
“None of them have had any serious illness
It’s rare to see anyone with dementia or Parkinson’s.”
Loi’s extensive research had documented every centenarian
He found many similarities in the way they lived that could give away their secrets to longevity.
“People who kept goats lived longer,” he says
“So maybe there’s something in the fact they all worked from a young age on the land.”
The following day we cycle along the coastline to Chia
where the bluer than blue ocean forces us to take pause
it’s a laid-back beach lifestyle with no crowds
wander the icing-sugar-like shore and dine on moreish handmade pasta and pizzas bigger than our plates.
There’s no village here – restaurants are dotted around the region
We find a local supermarket and buy some Sardinia wine to take home (and drink in moderation
because there’s definitely something in the water here
bathing on the largely empty stretch of beach
or chatting to each other on the street – a common occurrence among all ages.
we leave Chia and ride up the coast past a medieval ‘savoy tower’ built in the 17thcentury
and past seemingly endless beaches to the bunting-lined cobbled streets of Pula – and I think I may have just stepped into a fairytale.
Our hotel Villa Madau is in the heart of the city
From here we sit on our balcony and watch as people wander the pretty square. We have booked a few extra days here
If there is an award for Italy’s prettiest town
I spend hours wandering the cobbled streets
then sip Aperol spritz and watch the world go by in the little central square
We also visit the nearby ancient site of Nora (4th-century BC)
Excavations in the 50s revealed a wealthy imperial Roman city
We wander the ruins and learn about the way the Romans once lived
then bike back to the centre of Pula for more plates of pasta before we have to prepare to go home.
I pine for the hills and those pretty views where fiats whizz tight bends
I long to go back and wander the abandoned village of Tratalias
I want to linger longer on the sparkling Mediterranean beaches with colours so vivid it’s as if a texter was taken to them
And I eye apartments in Pula and imagine myself living right here
Cycling by day and savouring the Sardinian cuisine by night.
When we are picked up the next day and leaving the cobbled streets of Pula
I am filled with hope that this southern region of the island retains its casual
because there are few places that offer such a special place for cyclists
‘You must come back,’ our driver tells us as he pulls our bags from the car at the airport
See Utracks for info on this and other cycle tours in Italy
around a one-hour drive from Cagliari airport
You will need a good level of fitness to complete the week-long cycle
Our cycle was a little more than 210 kilometres; however
you can cycle this in around 130 kilometres if you stick strictly to the GPS map. Day 1: takes you from Sant’Antioco to the island of San PietroDay 2: is a circuit of southern Sant’AntiocoDay 3: takes you into the hinterland of Teulada – a Blue ZoneDay 4: sees you cycle from Teulada to the seaside region of ChiaDay 5: is a short ride around ChiaDay 6: takes you from Chia to the town of PulaDay 7: is a look around the Pula region
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Even if on theisland of San Pietro they are not present campgrounds
there are places that in the low season lend themselves to camper parking; alternatively you can rely on camping ofisland of Sant'Antioco
In September the sea it's always something else
Pleasantly warm water awaits bathers while on the paths
to those who set out in search of landscapes and silence
the Mediterranean scrub parched by summer offers sweetish scents
The villages regain their usual calm but not completely
still offering the comings and goings on the seafronts and the lively tables in the restaurants
and it is precisely now that it offers its best moment
Le small islands they are no exception
Struggling with the onslaughts of July and August
small spaces and those traveling in suffer more than ever camper he is often the first to be penalized
Just wait – for those who can afford it – until i Ferries crowded and empty parking lots off-limits are transformed into exclusives pitches with sea view
Le islands that make up theSulcis archipelago
in addition to a crown of minor emerged lands
include the major ones Sant'Antioco e San Pietro
It is precisely the latter that is considered one of the natural paradises of Italy for the intact coastal environments
and above all for the presence of one of the main populations (about one hundred and twenty pairs) of the queen's falcon (Falco eleonorae)
in this small island sanctuary it is therefore possible to experience the magnificence of Mediterranean nature with rare intensity
San Pietro island has an extension of approximately fifty square kilometers and includes six thousand residents largely concentrated in the locality of Carloforte
with small beaches mainly located along the southern coast
kilometers of cliffs and one of the few tuna fisheries still active in Italy
it can all be visited with a stay of just a few days
Stands out for its naturalistic importanceLIPU Oasis established by the Sardinia Region in 2011
but managed by the environmental association since 1980
The reserve extends over over four hundred hectares in the western portion of the island and covers six kilometers of intact coastline
the cliffs and the environments immediately behind them host the most important representatives of thewild bird life: not only the queen's falcons but also peregrine falcons
great swifts and numerous species of passerines such as the blue rock sparrow and the Sardinian magnanina
Here is a concise guide to discovering the island
Carlaforte is the only inhabited center on the island of San Pietro and extends flatly in the center of the eastern coast
Between Monument to the Fallen and the tourist port
behind the wide seafront pleasantly animated by bars and restaurants
you can walk along straight streets that lead to some churches
the Casa del Duca civic museum (housed within the old fortifications) and the monument to Charles Emmanuel III
The arch with underlying are characteristic staircase in Via Solferino and the power station Republic Square
with old circular iron benches around monumental ficus specimens
Having ceased production for about twenty years
the salt pans which extend west of the town of Carloforte today offer refuge to numerous species of birds including flamingos
All 'northern end on the island of San Pietro stands the complex of tonnara partially abandoned
The fishing activity still involves a few dozen workers and produces between four thousand and five thousand bluefin tuna every year
mostly destined for the local and Japanese markets
The neighbor's tuna fishery Flat Island
has been privatized for some time and transformed into a holiday village
Small and located mainly on the street south-western coast
are generally easily reachable with short walking routes from the backwaters parking lots
you will find in succession the beaches of Giunco
At the end of the road you reach Cala di Spalmatore or della Caletta
a detour from the provincial road leads to this inlet surrounded by long cliffs vertical overlooking a panoramic path (reduced parking spaces)
offers panoramic views on the cliffs below including one large cave
the path leading to the singular starts from a small clearing on the right rock formations of the Mushroom and Pulpit (reduced parking spaces)
On the solitary northern side of the island
they can be visited from the sea with aboat o from the ground (better if with LIPU guide
due to the rough terrain and the absence of signs)
L'technology it is wild and the cliffs are dizzying
with a pebble beach and often beaten by the mistral
hosts the small permanent camp behind it LIPU extension
The access road is reserved for the staff of the environmentalist association
but the large spaces at the entrance - near a bend in the provincial road to Capo Sandalo - are well suited to camper parking
the Equipped green path from LIPU (preferably practicable with a guide from the association) which in an hour and a half zigzags between rocks sculpted by the wind
overlooking the sea climbing up a small promontory and descending to the LIPU camp and then returning to the provincial road
which first touches the Lighthouse and then widens into the large (but not flat) final clearing
A small wooden hut houses the LIPU visitor center
In the middle of the square an easy stepped path leads to the sea in a landscape as intact as it is spectacular
with the sky crossed by the flight of seagulls
a further ramp descends steeply on the right to a small former jetty surrounded by rocks with curiously shaped shapes sculpted by the wind
Access to the little ones lookout huts for falcons
from which the photographs illustrating this article were also taken
is instead permitted only with prior authorization and in the company of a LIPU guide
The inhabitants of the island are called tabarchini and they speak a variant of the Ligurian dialect called tabarchin
The reason is easy to say: in the 18th century gods settled there settlers of Ligurian origin descendants of the three hundred families
who had settled in the area two centuries earlier Tunisian city of Tabarca
Among the most singular species ofEuropean avifauna
characterized by a wingspan of around one meter in width
this bird of prey takes the scientific name of falco eleonorae by Eleonora d'Arborea
who since the 15th century declared all the falcons of Sardinia protected. Gregarious and migratory species
in Italy it is present from April to October with around five hundred pairs found mainly in Sardinia
Its habit of nesting between the end of summer and the beginning of autumn is very particular
to make the reproduction period coincide with the migration of the passerines
which falcons they hunt with acrobatic dives along the rocky coasts; in the rest of the year it feeds mainly on insects
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On the occasion of Fare Cinema 2021, the Italian Cultural Institute of Tunis presents the documentary ‘Il mare che unisce. L’epopea dei Tabarchini‘ (The sea that unites. The epic of the Tabarchini) on its Facebook page
a town in north-western Tunisia of ancient Phoenician origin
is perhaps the place in Tunisia that has the strongest ties with Italy
who kept it until the mid-sixteenth century
with the exclusive privilege of exploiting what was the greatest local resource at the time: the coral
In 1542 the same island was given in concession by Khair ed-Din Barbarossa (probably as a ransom for his ally Dragut) to the Genoese Lomellini family (from the circle of Andrea Doria and related to the Grimaldis)
The Lomellini family colonized Tabarka with a group of inhabitants of Pegli
whose presence in Tabarka lasted about two centuries
due to the depletion of the coral reefs and the deterioration of relations with local populations
a large group of Tabarkini moved to Sardinia
the Bey of Tunis invaded the island and enslaved its inhabitants
or to Calasetta on the island of Sant’Antioco (also in Sardinia) or to the island of San Pablo near Alicante
the Tabarkini of Carloforte and Calasetta have kept their cultural identity intact: the dialect of these two localities
is a Ligurian-type idiom in a linguistically Sardinian territory
The stories of this community constitute a dossier presented by Tunisia to UNESCO for recognition as an intangible cultural heritage and supported by Italy and Spain
the documentary will be presented by the Italian Cultural Institute of Tunis at the end of 2021
To find out more, go to iictunisi.esteri.it
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